Thank you for this I've only ever used the clear red as part of my blood recipe, never thought to airbrush them. Think you are right about them being dismissed off-hand much like oil paints.
I did your course and while I remember what you showed me somehow I’ve been missing this video! I think my main fault was impatience. I shall have another frack at the airbrush, I want to do more than just prime!
How well to contrast paints shoot through an airbrush, I know they'll lose the 'contrast effect' but with how thin they are and high pigment, will they work well over a pre shade ?
I'm glad I've found this channel when I did. Your production quality is great and educational value is through the roof. Thank you very much for all your hard work.
3:35 Also, mixing outside of the cup can give you a better idea of the color and you can see little bits of paint that might later clog your airbrush more easily (and get them out of there before they cause any problems).
I started using Tamiya after the first few videos and they are stunning. Now I am looking for excuses to use them anywhere. This is a great guide. I will definitely be sending this video to anyone looking to get started with airbrushing.
Try gunze (mr. Color) - this paint has more colors . This paint is familiar to tamiya. These paints can be mixed and their thinners are same. I certainly love tamiya and gunze and i have no idea how would i use water based acrylics instead)
Hello - what’s the main difference between flow improver and thinner. Do you ever use improver and if so for what circumstances. Do you ever just thin with water too?
Thinnner will often have things such as flow improver in it. Thins the paint without diluting the colour too much. Water just makes it more dilute. Flow improver is useful in certain climates and with certain paints ( if you see the paint beading on the surface of the mini try a drop of flow improver). But for us, we’re based in the Uk, and just use thinner 99% of the time.
Can't speak for CoP but I personally use Mr.Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr.Levelling thinner to prime anything with fine detail - so 99.99% of miniatures. It sprays well and has much finer consistency than your typical rattle-can. Another plus is that it's actually more like a super dilute modelling putty than paint and as such will fill very small scratches or seams and can be sanded lightly. You can also get it in 500 and 1200, the 500 being twice as course and the 1200 being slightly finer. As for thinning it's essential to use the right thinner for the primer (hence my choice above). Just like paint I thin it 50/50 first and test to see how it sprays - humidity, local air pressure, temperature of both the room and the air in the compressor, etc can all change and with it the characteristics of the primer. It's easy enough to deal with just how CoP describes here though - mix 50/50 and thin/thicken according to results! Take a look at some braille scale armour modellers like Plasmo or NightShift and you'll see the way they use it to prime.
@@daredemontriple6 thanks that's a very detailed answer. I have a bottle of black, grey and white Vallejo primer I have been applying by brush. I just bought a California Air tools compressor as my first step into this world so I'm hoping I'm on the right path!
can you run tamiya through a normal airbrush or do you need a nylon one eg the thinner wont dissolve the rubber washers will it ?? loving the series :)
Don't worry about it. I have a cheap chinese airbrush with rubber washers. And i use the acrylics' thinner witout any problem. In addition, you can use silicone oil after cleaning.
I'm curious. As a long, long term Warhammer player but a very, very average painter, I feel like my biggest anchors to improvement are two fold: - A slow pace of learning and adapting to new methods or alternative ways of doing things. - I find painting for long periods painful (rib and wrist injuries) and interesting but also dull, which sounds ridiculous but I think a few people will understand my point. Back to my curiosity: Do you think (open floor, here) that an airbrush is likely to help? I feel, personally, it'd speed up the arduous parts of painting lots of models and I find that the techniques I really want to invest time in (such as lighting and nicely blended colours) are only achievable by an air brush (or at least consistently and easily). I've been looking for a couple ideas of good models but they aren't cheap and I'm genuinely interested in other's opinions who may have had the same experience.
Great video, but is there a real point to using Tamiya 'Acrylic'? If they're thinner based they're technically more like an enamel or lacquer than they are acrylic. I was under the impression that the acrylic tag was because this was a hybrid paint and Tamiya branded it as an acrylic to try push into that market a fair few years ago. If you're already ventilating and using a respirator is there a reason you wouldn't just use lacquers in place of the Tamiya?
Thanks! They're an acrylic lacquer. Lacquer paints like Alclad, Tamiya enamels etc are fine, but often the colour range isn't what we're after for the types of models we paint, they aren't as widely available through our hobby shops, and you are going to need a decent set of seals on your airbrush if you intend to use them a lot. The Tamiya acrylic range is already fairly limited and we very much use it as a supplement to other paints as opposed to a primary source.
How much ventilation are we needing for airbrushing? Do I need to go get one of those spray booths or is it enough to keep a window open/use a fan and use the respirator?
More is always better. But a respirator and an open window is what a lot of people use. If the room isn’t used by anyone else then this sounds a pretty reasonable thing to do.
Hey guys I finally purchased your signature series evolution, I've got this little metal hoop/ring that is thin as hell and has come off/broken is it needed?
Just personal preference, it slightly reduces build up of paint at the end. The forked guard that comes with our brushes is still very good. The 0.4mm needle in our brush is also much more resilient than the typical 0.2mm many people use.
Tamiya thinner works fine with a lot of regular acrylics. You'll find the odd paint goes a bit funny though, like porridge. But pick up some "normal" thinner too, it's what we do.
I'm in the market for my first airbrush and I've decided on harder and steenbeck for it. I just wondered what the main difference was between the evolution and the infinity? I'll be using it for army painting and the occasional display mini, do you have any recommendations? Thanks sorry to ask like 3 questions in one 😅
Hey Andrew, in short you can't go wrong with either. Our signature evo and Infinity are the best in class at those price points. Major difference between the two is weight. Our infinity is about a third of the weight of the evo ( unlike the standard infinity ours has a full aluminium body). You also have a greater level of customization with the Infinity, with trigger tension and the backstop. They are both capable of army painting and display pieces ( we use both, for both) so it really would come down to budget.
Thanks for this just started with an airbrush two quick questions, does a more expensive airbrush really make that much difference?. Can you recommend a facemask ?.
In our opinion yes it does. You'll get the occasional cheap one that works for a while, but a brush in the £150 range is going to be great and last you pretty much as long as you want it. I use a 3M mask with 6035 filters.
Awesomely informative video, as always! Thanks for that. However, I've heard multiple times that using the backflow of air to mix paint in the cup isn't something you should do, as you risk blowing paint into parts of the airbrush where it's not supposed to go. What do you (and the people in the comments) think about that?
I think it would be helpful to do more airbrush painting videos. But show the whole process, from diluting the paint to spraying...and don't edit the spraying and show the end result, but show how many times you spray, how long, how do you press the trigger, from which angle, how the paints build up on the model etc.
I understand. MY problem is that I live in a small town and the first FLGS is more than 100 miles away from my town in a different country so I can rarely get any painting classes in person and I rely mostly on youtube and experimentation. Nevertheless, great videos, you helped me a lot. Keep up the good work!
It's one of the things the old boys used to use, and then people just parrot it without thinking. We've got great dedicated cleaner's available now. Windex or any cleaner like that will work just fine, but we don't want to be spraying anything with ammonia in it, so if you can find one without then go for it.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Really love this series. This part especially was extremely educational! Thanks guys!
Glad you enjoyed it!
these are great! wouldve wanted this 3 years ago when i first picked up an airbrush!
Hopefully still some useful tips!!
Brilliant.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you 👍
I picked up some tamiya white the other day in hobbycraft, looking forward to giving it a shot
Enjoy!
1:45 or mixed into the paint directly.
Excellent video guys. I’m going to put what u say into practice now.
Go for it!
Thank you for this I've only ever used the clear red as part of my blood recipe, never thought to airbrush them. Think you are right about them being dismissed off-hand much like oil paints.
They are lovely through the airbrush
I did your course and while I remember what you showed me somehow I’ve been missing this video! I think my main fault was impatience. I shall have another frack at the airbrush, I want to do more than just prime!
Stick at it bud, when it clicks it’s such a useful tool to have available.
How well to contrast paints shoot through an airbrush, I know they'll lose the 'contrast effect' but with how thin they are and high pigment, will they work well over a pre shade ?
They work well i often use them in videos here.
I'm glad I've found this channel when I did. Your production quality is great and educational value is through the roof. Thank you very much for all your hard work.
You’re welcome, glad it’s been helpful
3:35 Also, mixing outside of the cup can give you a better idea of the color and you can see little bits of paint that might later clog your airbrush more easily (and get them out of there before they cause any problems).
I started using Tamiya after the first few videos and they are stunning. Now I am looking for excuses to use them anywhere.
This is a great guide. I will definitely be sending this video to anyone looking to get started with airbrushing.
Cheers Brendan, glad you're enjoying them!
Try gunze (mr. Color) - this paint has more colors . This paint is familiar to tamiya. These paints can be mixed and their thinners are same.
I certainly love tamiya and gunze and i have no idea how would i use water based acrylics instead)
5:20 Why would the your location matter for the pressure you use your airbrush at? I am asking because you said "here in the UK".
great! thank you
You are welcome!
What's the metal mixing cup thing you used to mix paints called at 2:03 ? It looks like a metal ketchup dipping container. Does it have a name?
Mr. Hobby makes them, metal mixing dish for paint.
Awesome vid, where are cult of paint airbrush manufactured ?
Harder And Steenbeck are a German company. The Cult signature brushes are made at their factory in Hamburg.
Great video - do you use the Tamiya thinner for GW acrylic paints as well?
I am looking for a thinner for acrylics.
Hi Lee, no just "normal" acrylic thinner for the rest. Most brands do a version for their water based acrylics
Do you need to clean the airbrush in any special way between solvent and water-based paints?
@@lewicron no.
Hello - what’s the main difference between flow improver and thinner. Do you ever use improver and if so for what circumstances.
Do you ever just thin with water too?
Thinnner will often have things such as flow improver in it. Thins the paint without diluting the colour too much. Water just makes it more dilute. Flow improver is useful in certain climates and with certain paints ( if you see the paint beading on the surface of the mini try a drop of flow improver). But for us, we’re based in the Uk, and just use thinner 99% of the time.
@@cultofpaint thank you.
Do you recommend air brushing primers? Do you thin them the same way as you do with standard paint? Thanks the videos rock!
Can't speak for CoP but I personally use Mr.Surfacer 1000 thinned with Mr.Levelling thinner to prime anything with fine detail - so 99.99% of miniatures. It sprays well and has much finer consistency than your typical rattle-can. Another plus is that it's actually more like a super dilute modelling putty than paint and as such will fill very small scratches or seams and can be sanded lightly. You can also get it in 500 and 1200, the 500 being twice as course and the 1200 being slightly finer.
As for thinning it's essential to use the right thinner for the primer (hence my choice above). Just like paint I thin it 50/50 first and test to see how it sprays - humidity, local air pressure, temperature of both the room and the air in the compressor, etc can all change and with it the characteristics of the primer. It's easy enough to deal with just how CoP describes here though - mix 50/50 and thin/thicken according to results!
Take a look at some braille scale armour modellers like Plasmo or NightShift and you'll see the way they use it to prime.
@@daredemontriple6 thanks that's a very detailed answer. I have a bottle of black, grey and white Vallejo primer I have been applying by brush. I just bought a California Air tools compressor as my first step into this world so I'm hoping I'm on the right path!
Great answer from DareDemon666, Badger Stylenrez is also pretty decent (it's not a filler primer). But generally no, we use rattle can primers.
can you run tamiya through a normal airbrush or do you need a nylon one eg the thinner wont dissolve the rubber washers will it ?? loving the series :)
It will be ok, it's not a strong solvent, but over time it would cause those seals to perish. They are very inexpensive and easy to replace though.
@@cultofpaint thankyou will give it a go then :)
Don't worry about it. I have a cheap chinese airbrush with rubber washers. And i use the acrylics' thinner witout any problem. In addition, you can use silicone oil after cleaning.
@@Vlrsk thanks man will defo be giving it ago :)
I'm curious.
As a long, long term Warhammer player but a very, very average painter, I feel like my biggest anchors to improvement are two fold:
- A slow pace of learning and adapting to new methods or alternative ways of doing things.
- I find painting for long periods painful (rib and wrist injuries) and interesting but also dull, which sounds ridiculous but I think a few people will understand my point.
Back to my curiosity: Do you think (open floor, here) that an airbrush is likely to help? I feel, personally, it'd speed up the arduous parts of painting lots of models and I find that the techniques I really want to invest time in (such as lighting and nicely blended colours) are only achievable by an air brush (or at least consistently and easily).
I've been looking for a couple ideas of good models but they aren't cheap and I'm genuinely interested in other's opinions who may have had the same experience.
The biggest thing the airbrush brings for me is a saving in time, it lets me get to the fun stuff quicker.
Excellent video and I have a "late" question since ņive starten With Airbrush.
GW-paints, is it best to mix them with water or thinner?
Thanks! We use airbrush thinner. Usually Vallejo/Medea or Lifecolour. Both work fine with 90%+ of the typical paints we use in the hobby.
@@cultofpaint thank you! ⭐
Great video, but is there a real point to using Tamiya 'Acrylic'? If they're thinner based they're technically more like an enamel or lacquer than they are acrylic. I was under the impression that the acrylic tag was because this was a hybrid paint and Tamiya branded it as an acrylic to try push into that market a fair few years ago. If you're already ventilating and using a respirator is there a reason you wouldn't just use lacquers in place of the Tamiya?
Thanks! They're an acrylic lacquer. Lacquer paints like Alclad, Tamiya enamels etc are fine, but often the colour range isn't what we're after for the types of models we paint, they aren't as widely available through our hobby shops, and you are going to need a decent set of seals on your airbrush if you intend to use them a lot. The Tamiya acrylic range is already fairly limited and we very much use it as a supplement to other paints as opposed to a primary source.
How much ventilation are we needing for airbrushing? Do I need to go get one of those spray booths or is it enough to keep a window open/use a fan and use the respirator?
More is always better. But a respirator and an open window is what a lot of people use. If the room isn’t used by anyone else then this sounds a pretty reasonable thing to do.
Hey guys I finally purchased your signature series evolution, I've got this little metal hoop/ring that is thin as hell and has come off/broken is it needed?
Kris drop me an email at cultofpaint@gmail.com with a photo. - Henry
I hope for troubleshooting video as well
Hello, I would like to know why you never put the protection of your needle on your airbrush, please?
It s easy to bend, no?
Just personal preference, it slightly reduces build up of paint at the end. The forked guard that comes with our brushes is still very good. The 0.4mm needle in our brush is also much more resilient than the typical 0.2mm many people use.
Hey! Thank you so much. I only have Tamiya thinner and I'm using regular acrylic paints. Would that cause any problems? Any tips?
Tamiya thinner works fine with a lot of regular acrylics. You'll find the odd paint goes a bit funny though, like porridge. But pick up some "normal" thinner too, it's what we do.
Tamiya thinner is isopropyl alcohol based. It will turn vallejo paints to gunk. Mix in a separate pot if in doubt, not in the brush.
I'm in the market for my first airbrush and I've decided on harder and steenbeck for it. I just wondered what the main difference was between the evolution and the infinity? I'll be using it for army painting and the occasional display mini, do you have any recommendations? Thanks sorry to ask like 3 questions in one 😅
Hey Andrew, in short you can't go wrong with either. Our signature evo and Infinity are the best in class at those price points. Major difference between the two is weight. Our infinity is about a third of the weight of the evo ( unlike the standard infinity ours has a full aluminium body). You also have a greater level of customization with the Infinity, with trigger tension and the backstop. They are both capable of army painting and display pieces ( we use both, for both) so it really would come down to budget.
@@cultofpaint thanks so much for the speedy reply. I'll take that into consideration when buying thanks
Thanks for this just started with an airbrush two quick questions, does a more expensive airbrush really make that much difference?. Can you recommend a facemask ?.
In our opinion yes it does. You'll get the occasional cheap one that works for a while, but a brush in the £150 range is going to be great and last you pretty much as long as you want it. I use a 3M mask with 6035 filters.
Awesomely informative video, as always! Thanks for that. However, I've heard multiple times that using the backflow of air to mix paint in the cup isn't something you should do, as you risk blowing paint into parts of the airbrush where it's not supposed to go. What do you (and the people in the comments) think about that?
It is undoubtedly the downside to that way of mixing. I'll discuss that more in the next video about cleaning.
I think it would be helpful to do more airbrush painting videos. But show the whole process, from diluting the paint to spraying...and don't edit the spraying and show the end result, but show how many times you spray, how long, how do you press the trigger, from which angle, how the paints build up on the model etc.
That is trickier, and something that best suits the class style environment. But we'll see what we can do.
I understand. MY problem is that I live in a small town and the first FLGS is more than 100 miles away from my town in a different country so I can rarely get any painting classes in person and I rely mostly on youtube and experimentation.
Nevertheless, great videos, you helped me a lot. Keep up the good work!
I don't believe the airbrushes ship to the US, do they?
Joetime90 spraygunner.com.
@@johnfenton9283 thanks a bunch
Yep Element Games (sole distributor for our airbrushes) ships globally.
Tamiya spray even better with Lacquer Thinner
Lmao because they're not really acrylic :)
Damn, if I didn't already have the Ukraine and Giraldo Intinity airbrushes I'd be all over yours. It's such agreat looking device.
Tamiya Paint also tastes bad just fyi
truth
great educational video,thanks for that. But I find the background music is really annoying.
Glad you're enjoying the content. We're still searching for our fave background track
Why do people reccomend windex
It's one of the things the old boys used to use, and then people just parrot it without thinking. We've got great dedicated cleaner's available now. Windex or any cleaner like that will work just fine, but we don't want to be spraying anything with ammonia in it, so if you can find one without then go for it.