after 60 years since I played with trains, at 86 I have renewed my enthusiasm for this hobby. What a tremendous asset the video shorts help. Roll on Lionel!
Last yr I couldn't get my starter set Polar Express going all the way around the track. I took it down out of frustration. I stumbled on your video today searching for the answer because I put up a Christmas village. I soldered each piece of center together. I cleaned the tracks and the contacts on the train. It worked. Thank you for sharing your tip. Lots of people come to see this village that I affectionately call Linstervile. This year will not disappoint them. I'm subscribing. Thanks again...
This is a good video, thank you for making it. I'm just getting started soldering my Fastrack and you're video is going to save me a lot of time not doing the outer rails!
What's up Sid it,s me.Still trying to get my money together to build that crossover you showed in one of your vids.Just received some 30 inch fastrack .It works great.Less connection better electrical flow disconnected my 10 inch power track.And hooked up Transformer to 30 inch Fastrack. I only use 10 inch track when necessary THANKS FOR SHARING HOW TO CONNECT RAILS.
I used the Fastrack to circle the Tree for Christmas. However, connecting and dismantling the Fastrack at the end of the season, all of the 48" Fastrack curves lost connectivity. And the reason I lost interest in using Fastrack. Good job; your tips are helpful and sensible. I see in one shot that the track appears light gray, and I noticed that the pieces you demonstrated are gray-brown. Is this due to the lighting, or is the light gray track a different track? To my understanding, when Lionel changed overseas manufacturers, the quality diminished. Some RUclipsrs discussed the many problems with the Fastrack, including the later switches.
Great tips. If it's impractical to remove the track, install the wires, and put everything back in place, do you think a bit of solder applied directly between the center rails (e.g. from the top, if the bottom of the track is difficult to access) would accomplish the same thing?
It would be visible from the outside but if you do it carefully it will look good. I don't think it would be a problem, but if sodder gets hot (as it is designed to be) then it might get soft or melt.
Good Tip, but your soldering needs a little help! Heat the metal to temperature, then the solder will draw to the metal. Never heat the solder or the result will be a cold joint. Other than that, your advice is always an A+
Hey Sid! I did this same method to my track too, and I have been experiencing some problems. Whenever I would have my locomotive on the track and turn on power, it would go full speed when I was at the Lowest Speed on my transformer, I don’t know what’s going on , please let me know thank you
Sid, I have no power to my rail that has the crossover with two switches, could the problem be in the switches. All other rails are working fine but no switches attached. Transformer shows power but zero on the tracks. I had to add 2 1 1/4 straight piece because of the blockage in corner of switch, could that be the problem Thanks
Young fellow I disagree with you.it would be very interesting to see you fix that 10 wheeler.personally I think your passion and knowledge is wonderful.just an old goats opinion.keep up the great work.if you can I would love to see a video on fixing FasTrack switch.I have an 060 command switch that details everything.it trips on its own and I don't have your knowledge.I am so frustrated that I dismantled it and have a boring 072 loop.the right hand switch is flawless and works with toggle and my cab1.any help would be appreciated.i could live with it being manual switch.thank Sid
I am HATING fastrack! Haven't even gotten to run a train yet. NOTHING lines up once you start adding switch overs between loops. I end up need odd ball tracks, like 8" 3", 2" . LOL. Uhg. Makes zero sense. Next will be the wiring nightmare! Think I'm going to jumper tracks from above instead so I can get to the wires. I don't want to worry about pulling up tracks.
FastTrack is a waist of money. I had the same issue with it and it is only the straight sections. I switched to Gargraves o gauge about three years ago and don`t regret it.
after 60 years since I played with trains, at 86 I have renewed my enthusiasm for this hobby. What a tremendous asset the video shorts help. Roll on Lionel!
Last yr I couldn't get my starter set Polar Express going all the way around the track. I took it down out of frustration. I stumbled on your video today searching for the answer because I put up a Christmas village. I soldered each piece of center together. I cleaned the tracks and the contacts on the train. It worked. Thank you for sharing your tip. Lots of people come to see this village that I affectionately call Linstervile. This year will not disappoint them. I'm subscribing. Thanks again...
This is a good video, thank you for making it. I'm just getting started soldering my Fastrack and you're video is going to save me a lot of time not doing the outer rails!
Very good point about the short fastrack pieces needing to be connected with wire.
Great video Sid! Thanks for sharing! Have a great and awesome day!
Nice info. Sid. Thanks for sharing. Nick
No problem Nick.
Great demonstration Sid. I would be interested in seeing what you do with that engine, lol.
Thanks
Sid Awesome video!
Thanks
What's up Sid it,s me.Still trying to get my money together to build that crossover you showed in one of your vids.Just received some 30 inch fastrack .It works great.Less connection better electrical flow disconnected my 10 inch power track.And hooked up Transformer to 30 inch Fastrack. I only use 10 inch track when necessary
THANKS FOR SHARING HOW TO CONNECT RAILS.
I used the Fastrack to circle the Tree for Christmas. However, connecting and dismantling the Fastrack at the end of the season, all of the 48" Fastrack curves lost connectivity. And the reason I lost interest in using Fastrack. Good job; your tips are helpful and sensible. I see in one shot that the track appears light gray, and I noticed that the pieces you demonstrated are gray-brown. Is this due to the lighting, or is the light gray track a different track? To my understanding, when Lionel changed overseas manufacturers, the quality diminished. Some RUclipsrs discussed the many problems with the Fastrack, including the later switches.
WOW!!! Thanks!
Great tips. If it's impractical to remove the track, install the wires, and put everything back in place, do you think a bit of solder applied directly between the center rails (e.g. from the top, if the bottom of the track is difficult to access) would accomplish the same thing?
Yes that would do the same thing.
It would be visible from the outside but if you do it carefully it will look good. I don't think it would be a problem, but if sodder gets hot (as it is designed to be) then it might get soft or melt.
Thank you.
what about using ox Gard, conductive paste used on the pins to keep oxidation down and fill the space the pins dont touch?
Can that same technique work on? Switches such as wired electric switches?
Good Tip, but your soldering needs a little help! Heat the metal to temperature, then the solder will draw to the metal. Never heat the solder or the result will be a cold joint. Other than that, your advice is always an A+
Hey Sid! I did this same method to my track too, and I have been experiencing some problems. Whenever I would have my locomotive on the track and turn on power, it would go full speed when I was at the Lowest Speed on my transformer, I don’t know what’s going on , please let me know thank you
How do you set up for an insulated 1 3/8 piece of track
You have a wire for uninsulated and no wire for insulated.
Sid, I have no power to my rail that has the crossover with two switches, could the problem be in the switches. All other rails are working fine but no switches attached. Transformer shows power but zero on the tracks. I had to add 2 1 1/4 straight piece because of the blockage in corner of switch, could that be the problem
Thanks
My layout has a 1 volt drop on the other side of the track. Im guessing its alright
Young fellow I disagree with you.it would be very interesting to see you fix that 10 wheeler.personally I think your passion and knowledge is wonderful.just an old goats opinion.keep up the great work.if you can I would love to see a video on fixing FasTrack switch.I have an 060 command switch that details everything.it trips on its own and I don't have your knowledge.I am so frustrated that I dismantled it and have a boring 072 loop.the right hand switch is flawless and works with toggle and my cab1.any help would be appreciated.i could live with it being manual switch.thank Sid
Thanks. The main reason I didn't film any of the ten wheeler is I didn't document most of it.
@@SidsTrains I’ve had the same problems with my fastrack sections
Your FasTrack looks slightly different from mine, mine is the gray FasTrack
I am HATING fastrack! Haven't even gotten to run a train yet. NOTHING lines up once you start adding switch overs between loops. I end up need odd ball tracks, like 8" 3", 2" . LOL. Uhg. Makes zero sense. Next will be the wiring nightmare! Think I'm going to jumper tracks from above instead so I can get to the wires. I don't want to worry about pulling up tracks.
Lionel started putting wires under their smaller pieces of track
FastTrack is a waist of money. I had the same issue with it and it is only the straight sections. I switched to Gargraves o gauge about three years ago and don`t regret it.
I didn't come here for loud, obnoxious music. I'm out.
The music stops at the 40 second mark! 13 more minutes of his talking without any music. He has good advice.
BYE
Nice job