I started with my old Lionel tubular, acquired over fifty years, then supplemented with Menard’s tubular. I had little problem with it. Mostly running post war and MPC Era trains in conventional mode. Fastrack came with a Thomas the Train set I bought for my grandkids. As I began collecting newer locomotives using DCS control, I continued with Fastrack. Now I have two separate tables with enough equipment so my three grandkids can each control a train simultaneously. My layouts are very basic with buildings being the only modifications. I’m okay with both tubular and Fastrack. I see no need for more realistic track for my layouts. Thanks for your informative and fun videos.
Thanks, Corey... I think everyone would agree that there is no perfect O track system. Tube track is reliable, cheap and nostalgic, Fast Track is quick and smooth, Gargraves is quite expensive (especially with custom switches) but it is by far the best looking and most flexible. Even MTH real-trax and super-O have their good and bad points. Nice review.
Corey! - great video - and I totally agree, based on my experience. I started with simple loops and then progressed to a layout with a few switches. Heavy engines eventually pulled apart "standard track", so Fast Track was an improvement. But.. I outgrew the layout and wanted something more interesting... with a more complicated non-circular layout , and like you I found that track planning resulted in the need for custom lengths of track, or curve radiuses that were not manufactured. I switched to Atlas with Ross Custom Switches, operated by under-table Circuitron Tortoise switch machines. I have not had ONE failure with over 25 switches over the past 7 years (except for when I accidentally got some loose ballast between the switch points and of course that prevented the switch from totally closing..oops). Also the Tortoise machines have 2 built in relay sets so that's perfect for wiring signals, or sending switch sense back to LCS. I love LCS for controlling the switches. I use it on a tablet with a mockup of my layout and can easily trigger routes or individual switches... I'm currently adding animations and accessories to LCS so that they can all be triggered from the tablet as well.
Atlas tracks in my estimation are a better alternative to Gargraves/Ross. Its plastic ties seem far more "realistic" than the taller & thicker rails of Gargraves/Ross track. Life (and model train track decisions) is not simple. Personally, I like to use scale 2 rail Atlas O scale track on my layout, and glue a third centrally located rail on my layout.
Good video Corey. I have used Fastrack for about a year or so now on a semi-permanent layout, and I have had my ups and downs. Though once I figured out the a few things, it works well. Simplicity and cost has been my main factor for using it. Some people have made comments that real modelers wouldn’t use Fastrack, but I disagree. I have seen many great three-rail layouts on the forums and RUclips that use Fastrack and there are times when you can’t tell the difference at first glance. It’s all in what you want out of your layout and the miniature world you are creating.
Current continuity with fast track is poor.. Not a fan Ok for temp carpet layouts.. but after taking it apart.. then reassemble.. very poor power connection. Many power drops Gargraves is better Atlas looks better Old super O looks great.. but probably not a good idea unless you have tons of it in good condition.
Thanks for the video - nicely done. Own experience is Fastrack was fine for me when I started - easy to work with, self-contained roadbed, switches worked (when level), and reasonable cost especially used. Also very simple to use if you like to modify your layout. The problem, and it is a problem, is the sound is deafening if you run your trains with any speed, or run multiple trains. I'm talking you can't hold a conversation when standing trackside. You can try to deaden the sound but there is no good solution. I had homosote between the table and track and it did some good but not enough. Eventually swapped out at a considerable cost to Atlas. My advice, if you start small with Fastrack from a set and you find it noisy, don't keep building with Fastrack. I built a big layout with hundreds of pieces before changing over and it took me months to sell my Fastrack online. Also, buying stuff twice (Fastrack then Atlas) not very smart. All this said, thoroughly enjoyed the old layout and I see some people with great layouts built with Fastrack.
Great video Corey! You bring up some interesting “points” here…. This is why I’m more than happy with my Ross/GarGraves layout, although there are pros and cons with them too.
I see you have road bed granuals. That's what blocks the switch from closing tight to the rail. Just clean the granuals . from the throw, you'll be fine. I've had a fastrack permanent layout for 15 years. Plus tubular & Atlas. All three are great track. Keep your track clean!😊
Fastrack looks great and has good electrical connections but the switches can be a common issue especially with the switches, It seems the problems i have found are mostly with longer and heavier locomotives and longer cars . I have used Ross track and switches with good results. What i like most about Ross track is they have real wood ties, fit together tight and look very realistic.
The coupler shoes can be fixed by filing a 45 degree angle on both sides of it so that it will retract like it's supposed to. Another problem is sometimes the rivit holding the shoe on can touch power on the turnout decoupling the car or dumping it's load. Filing the right head down slightly will fix that. A Dremel makes this a 5 minute fix for both modifications and reliable operations on an layout.
12:42 pm central. To me they're all great ,but having a small board layout and going back to my boyhood early fifties on I vote for what I grew up with. The examples tubular track postwar engines and rolling stock despite its short comings. I also find that Menards is a good source for tubular track.
Great thoughts and points made. It sounds like you have experienced many of the pros and cons I have experienced with MTH RealTrax. Not 100% the same by any means, but lots of similar features and shortcomings. As I expanded my layout, I kept second guessing my RealTrax decision, and often ponder whether to move to Atlas or Gargraves/Ross. Thanks for sharing.
Biggest detractor for me was price and minimum curve. FasTrack only goes down to O-31, and with O-27 tubular I could build a more intricate layout with the space I had to work with. Fastrack averaged about $5 per section when I was building my layout, new old stock O-27 tubular was $1 a section.
My layout is all fastrack now. I’ve evolved from tuber track. My 3 loops on my layout work flawlessly with fastrack. So far everything goes through the switches. All I’ve ever had is tuber track and now fastrack. So that’s all I know about. The tuber track just isn’t very realistic and fastrack is carried at my hobby shop. The one thing I find annoying is like Cory said. Sometimes you have to buy them little one and 2 inch pieces. Tubular track has an advantage. That way you can just cut it off.
I did build a 6x20 layout completely fastrack, it was simple and reliable, however, make sure the center tabs are pointing slightly out for better contact and the switch points go flush on either side. Hopefully my next layout (will be fastrack due to my abundance of it) and I have had good success with it especially for grades.
Many of my Lionel trains have Magnatraction. Magnatraction will not work on Fastrack. I had a small loop of Fastrack because it would protect my carpet from any oil from my trains run around the Christmas tree. After 5 years I started having problems with it, so I tossed it.
If money was no option I would love to use Atlas track, but I have most all fastrack. Not a real fan of it but I bought a ton of it from a guy that changed his mind on it. So it is what I have to use.
When switched from ho trains to ogauge.I had lionel track while putting track together. Did not want to go together and with the track being rough.Cut my my hand pretty bad.. My had had a cut that took a long time to heal.I went to gargreaves track and some atlas. I gargreaves because you can get real wooden ties to.Looks like you have added to your layouts.
Tubular is better if you're a kid (or even adult) and you lay your track on your bedroom floor and take it up and set it down again and again because it's rugged and reliable and those heavy duty pins give a good electrical connection. FasTrak is better if you're building a permanent layout that won't be taken up and reconnected again and again. As long as it isn't pulled apart and reconnected again and again, it's perfectly reliable. But it's not meant to be used by a kid (or an adult) who sets up his layout on the floor and taken up all the time. Just my opinion :-)
Are you relying on track voltage or fixed voltage for your Fast Track switches? I have never used Fast Track but have some from some starter sets I used recently. I have much tubular track acquired from the '50's thru the 70's. I have been reviewing Fast Track videos like yours in anticipation of converting to it when I build my layout. It is my understanding that the Fast Track remote switches are based on the old tubular O gauge O22 remote switches. The old 022 gauge remote switches worked best when the fixed voltage post was used. Relying on track voltage to operate them resulted in voltage drop which would cause them not to open or close completely. Some of the problems you describe with the flanges were common with the old tubular 1022 switches which were made for 027 tubular track. The larger O gauge equipment sometimes derailed going over a tubular 1022 switch. As for Gargraves, I have some of that track and it looks good. You need to make a template if bending it into a curve. Gargraves has a short video on it which can be found on You Tube. But, it is best used for making wide radius curves such as 48" in diameter or greater. Lionel or Gargraves used to sell transition pins between Gargraves track and tubular 027 and O gauge track so that they could be intermixed on a layout. I don't know if the same is true for Fast Track.
II am a member of a local model railroad club in my city. The O gauge consists of Gargraves track with ross switches. Both of these products work well for the newer Lionel, MYH and other manufacturers trains. BUT, do not run pre-war tinplate trains on these tracks. The Ross switches with their butt end guide rails knock off the sliding shoes on the tin plate operating cars. Do not try to run Lionel 2333 A and B units pulling the 2500 series aluminum cars on this track as the. Gargraves has no carbon in its make up and so the magnetraction wheels will not pull the train up the slightest grade. Even the magnetraction 6672 or 2020 will not pill a good sized train up the slightest grade we have on out layout. Gargraves does not work well when used for any incline. Locomotives with rubber tires will work but not magnet action. I was not member when thy redesigned the layout so would have not allowed them to use margraves track and thos e crappy Ross switches. Slo, layout builders be aware.!!!! PS. I enjoyed the video but do not use Gargraves and ross on you n bayou if you plan to ese any elations or cars with sliding shoes. You will be sorry. Thanks
My thought's on the Fastrack isn't that good lol. Most of my track is from 2003 or so and it's old and worn out. Every time I set it up for my big Christmas Village layout I encounter tons of problems, including trouble with MTH PS2 engines for DCS.
Personally I have no love for FastTrack. I had nothing but problems with it. Boxed it all up and setting under my Layout. I only use MTH Track. Never any Issues.
My two Reasons is that it pulls apart and does not have good connection. And also because of the odd sizes of Curves offered. Have you ever used MTH Track?
@@robertcornelius3514 I'll give you the big one, electric conductivity. My track is on a layout so it stays together. After a couple years you start getting dead spots. You have to add feeders and or solder jumpers underneath between the center rails. You get it running good and in another year you get another dead spot.
I started with my old Lionel tubular, acquired over fifty years, then supplemented with Menard’s tubular. I had little problem with it. Mostly running post war and MPC Era trains in conventional mode.
Fastrack came with a Thomas the Train set I bought for my grandkids. As I began collecting newer locomotives using DCS control, I continued with Fastrack. Now I have two separate tables with enough equipment so my three grandkids can each control a train simultaneously.
My layouts are very basic with buildings being the only modifications. I’m okay with both tubular and Fastrack. I see no need for more realistic track for my layouts.
Thanks for your informative and fun videos.
Thanks, Corey... I think everyone would agree that there is no perfect O track system. Tube track is reliable, cheap and nostalgic, Fast Track is quick and smooth, Gargraves is quite expensive (especially with custom switches) but it is by far the best looking and most flexible. Even MTH real-trax and super-O have their good and bad points. Nice review.
Corey! - great video - and I totally agree, based on my experience. I started with simple loops and then progressed to a layout with a few switches. Heavy engines eventually pulled apart "standard track", so Fast Track was an improvement. But.. I outgrew the layout and wanted something more interesting... with a more complicated non-circular layout , and like you I found that track planning resulted in the need for custom lengths of track, or curve radiuses that were not manufactured. I switched to Atlas with Ross Custom Switches, operated by under-table Circuitron Tortoise switch machines. I have not had ONE failure with over 25 switches over the past 7 years (except for when I accidentally got some loose ballast between the switch points and of course that prevented the switch from totally closing..oops). Also the Tortoise machines have 2 built in relay sets so that's perfect for wiring signals, or sending switch sense back to LCS. I love LCS for controlling the switches. I use it on a tablet with a mockup of my layout and can easily trigger routes or individual switches... I'm currently adding animations and accessories to LCS so that they can all be triggered from the tablet as well.
Atlas tracks in my estimation are a better alternative to Gargraves/Ross. Its plastic ties seem far more "realistic" than the taller & thicker rails of Gargraves/Ross track. Life (and model train track decisions) is not simple. Personally, I like to use scale 2 rail Atlas O scale track on my layout, and glue a third centrally located rail on my layout.
Good video Corey.
I have used Fastrack for about a year or so now on a semi-permanent layout, and I have had my ups and downs. Though once I figured out the a few things, it works well. Simplicity and cost has been my main factor for using it.
Some people have made comments that real modelers wouldn’t use Fastrack, but I disagree. I have seen many great three-rail layouts on the forums and RUclips that use Fastrack and there are times when you can’t tell the difference at first glance. It’s all in what you want out of your layout and the miniature world you are creating.
Current continuity with fast track is poor..
Not a fan
Ok for temp carpet layouts.. but after taking it apart.. then reassemble.. very poor power connection.
Many power drops
Gargraves is better
Atlas looks better
Old super O looks great.. but probably not a good idea unless you have tons of it in good condition.
Thanks for the video - nicely done. Own experience is Fastrack was fine for me when I started - easy to work with, self-contained roadbed, switches worked (when level), and reasonable cost especially used. Also very simple to use if you like to modify your layout. The problem, and it is a problem, is the sound is deafening if you run your trains with any speed, or run multiple trains. I'm talking you can't hold a conversation when standing trackside. You can try to deaden the sound but there is no good solution. I had homosote between the table and track and it did some good but not enough. Eventually swapped out at a considerable cost to Atlas. My advice, if you start small with Fastrack from a set and you find it noisy, don't keep building with Fastrack. I built a big layout with hundreds of pieces before changing over and it took me months to sell my Fastrack online. Also, buying stuff twice (Fastrack then Atlas) not very smart. All this said, thoroughly enjoyed the old layout and I see some people with great layouts built with Fastrack.
Great video Corey!
You bring up some interesting “points” here…. This is why I’m more than happy with my Ross/GarGraves layout, although there are pros and cons with them too.
I see you have road bed granuals. That's what blocks the switch from closing tight to the rail. Just clean the granuals . from the throw, you'll be fine. I've had a fastrack permanent layout for 15 years. Plus tubular & Atlas. All three are great track. Keep your track clean!😊
Fastrack looks great and has good electrical connections but the switches can be a common issue especially with the switches, It seems the problems i have found are mostly with longer and heavier locomotives and longer cars . I have used Ross track and switches with good results. What i like most about Ross track is they have real wood ties, fit together tight and look very realistic.
My layout uses Fastrack and it works great. Great conductor and hasn’t failed me yet.
The coupler shoes can be fixed by filing a 45 degree angle on both sides of it so that it will retract like it's supposed to. Another problem is sometimes the rivit holding the shoe on can touch power on the turnout decoupling the car or dumping it's load. Filing the right head down slightly will fix that. A Dremel makes this a 5 minute fix for both modifications and reliable operations on an layout.
12:42 pm central. To me they're all great ,but having a small board layout and going back to my boyhood early fifties on I vote for what I grew up with. The examples tubular track postwar engines and rolling stock despite its short comings. I also find that Menards is a good source for tubular track.
Great thoughts and points made. It sounds like you have experienced many of the pros and cons I have experienced with MTH RealTrax. Not 100% the same by any means, but lots of similar features and shortcomings. As I expanded my layout, I kept second guessing my RealTrax decision, and often ponder whether to move to Atlas or Gargraves/Ross. Thanks for sharing.
Biggest detractor for me was price and minimum curve. FasTrack only goes down to O-31, and with O-27 tubular I could build a more intricate layout with the space I had to work with.
Fastrack averaged about $5 per section when I was building my layout, new old stock O-27 tubular was $1 a section.
Thank you, Cory, excellent input.
I like Fastrack for its ease of use and versatility, but once I build a truly permanent layout, I plan on using something like gargraves
My layout is all fastrack now. I’ve evolved from tuber track. My 3 loops on my layout work flawlessly with fastrack. So far everything goes through the switches. All I’ve ever had is tuber track and now fastrack. So that’s all I know about. The tuber track just isn’t very realistic and fastrack is carried at my hobby shop. The one thing I find annoying is like Cory said. Sometimes you have to buy them little one and 2 inch pieces. Tubular track has an advantage. That way you can just cut it off.
I did build a 6x20 layout completely fastrack, it was simple and reliable, however, make sure the center tabs are pointing slightly out for better contact and the switch points go flush on either side. Hopefully my next layout (will be fastrack due to my abundance of it) and I have had good success with it especially for grades.
Many of my Lionel trains have Magnatraction. Magnatraction will not work on Fastrack. I had a small loop of Fastrack because it would protect my carpet from any oil from my trains run around the Christmas tree. After 5 years I started having problems with it, so I tossed it.
If money was no option I would love to use Atlas track, but I have most all fastrack. Not a real fan of it but I bought a ton of it from a guy that changed his mind on it. So it is what I have to use.
BOB HAS RETURNED!!!!
Awesome
When switched from ho trains to ogauge.I had lionel track while putting track together.
Did not want to go together and with the track being rough.Cut my my hand pretty bad..
My had had a cut that took a long time to heal.I went to gargreaves track and some atlas.
I gargreaves because you can get real wooden ties to.Looks like you have added to your layouts.
Tubular is better if you're a kid (or even adult) and you lay your track on your bedroom floor and take it up and set it down again and again because it's rugged and reliable and those heavy duty pins give a good electrical connection.
FasTrak is better if you're building a permanent layout that won't be taken up and reconnected again and again. As long as it isn't pulled apart and reconnected again and again, it's perfectly reliable. But it's not meant to be used by a kid (or an adult) who sets up his layout on the floor and taken up all the time.
Just my opinion :-)
I sold the only loop of fast track i got with a set as i already had a layout with tubular o gauge track the fast track was just to noisy to me
Are you relying on track voltage or fixed voltage for your Fast Track switches? I have never used Fast Track but have some from some starter sets I used recently. I have much tubular track acquired from the '50's thru the 70's. I have been reviewing Fast Track videos like yours in anticipation of converting to it when I build my layout. It is my understanding that the Fast Track remote switches are based on the old tubular O gauge O22 remote switches. The old 022 gauge remote switches worked best when the fixed voltage post was used. Relying on track voltage to operate them resulted in voltage drop which would cause them not to open or close completely. Some of the problems you describe with the flanges were common with the old tubular 1022 switches which were made for 027 tubular track. The larger O gauge equipment sometimes derailed going over a tubular 1022 switch.
As for Gargraves, I have some of that track and it looks good. You need to make a template if bending it into a curve. Gargraves has a short video on it which can be found on You Tube. But, it is best used for making wide radius curves such as 48" in diameter or greater. Lionel or Gargraves used to sell transition pins between Gargraves track and tubular 027 and O gauge track so that they could be intermixed on a layout. I don't know if the same is true for Fast Track.
Haven't really had any issues with my Atlas track and switches
Thanks for the info , I have a prewar 259 loco, do you know what minimum curve this will run on? I’m going with tube track for this one. Thanks
People who like Fasttrack
👇
II am a member of a local model railroad club in my city. The O gauge consists of Gargraves track with ross switches. Both of these products work well for the newer Lionel, MYH and other manufacturers trains. BUT, do not run pre-war tinplate trains on these tracks. The Ross switches with their butt end guide rails knock off the sliding shoes on the tin plate operating cars. Do not try to run Lionel 2333 A and B units pulling the 2500 series aluminum cars on this track as the. Gargraves has no carbon in its make up and so the magnetraction wheels will not pull the train up the slightest grade. Even the magnetraction 6672 or 2020 will not pill a good sized train up the slightest grade we have on out layout. Gargraves does not work well when used for any incline. Locomotives with rubber tires will work but not magnet action. I was not member when thy redesigned the layout so would have not allowed them to use margraves track and thos e crappy Ross switches. Slo, layout builders be aware.!!!!
PS. I enjoyed the video but do not use Gargraves and ross on you n bayou if you plan to ese any elations or cars with sliding shoes. You will be sorry. Thanks
Use Ross Custom Switches to replace the Lionel Turnouts.
To fix turnoiut controllers clean the contacts. WD-40 works.
Atlas does all that and has long straights and flex track too
Fastrack is great,
Ross custom switches do not work well with those sliding shoes. The switches will activate the shoe.
My thought's on the Fastrack isn't that good lol. Most of my track is from 2003 or so and it's old and worn out. Every time I set it up for my big Christmas Village layout I encounter tons of problems, including trouble with MTH PS2 engines for DCS.
Personally I have no love for FastTrack. I had nothing but problems with it. Boxed it all up and setting under my Layout. I only use MTH Track. Never any Issues.
My two Reasons is that it pulls apart and does not have good connection. And also because of the odd sizes of Curves offered. Have you ever used MTH Track?
It is too loud for me. However, my toddler can more easily get trains on the track with Fastrack compared to tubular.
There’s a nickname for fastrack…. Fastrash.
I'm disappointed in Fastrack
Please list two problems you had with it.
@@robertcornelius3514 I'll give you the big one, electric conductivity. My track is on a layout so it stays together. After a couple years you start getting dead spots. You have to add feeders and or solder jumpers underneath between the center rails. You get it running good and in another year you get another dead spot.
reccomend ??????
talk to much
Son can you say " made in china"
a seasoned modeler wouldn't use that crap
Outstanding Video👍🙏🔥🔥🇺🇸❤️