How to replace pinion seal in your Ford 9" differential
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2020
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Pinion Seal 9" amzn.to/3vWgB0A
Pinion O-Ring 9" amzn.to/3oa8yna
Pinion Nut 9" amzn.to/399UnKo
Crush Sleeve 9" amzn.to/3ASjqgW
Pinion Seal 8" amzn.to/2XseyAs
Crush Sleeve 8" amzn.to/3Ck1qMm
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Today at Alf's Mustang Garage we replace a leaky pinion seal on a Ford 9" differential. This procedure is the same for a Ford 8" Differential. This video only covers the removal and replacement of the pinion seal and not the recommended procedure to re-set the pinion bearing pre-load. That video can be watched here ------- • How to set your pinion...
Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs. 
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In my opinion, you made the job harder than it needs to be. Leave they yoke on the pinion and pull the whole assembly. Clamp the yoke in a vise and remove the pinion nut. Now you have the pinion and the housing out of the car. Slide out the pinion, lay the housing flat on a bench with the outer bearing setting in it's race. Install the new seal. Put the pinion gear back in with a new crush sleeve and set the pinion pre-load. You can do this with the yoke clamped back in that vise. You didn't mention it, but the shims behind this housing are very important, they set pinion depth. Don't damage or lose any of them. I did a whole lot of these when I worked at a Ford garage in the early 70's.
I just watched your pinion bearing pre-load video. That's the way to set it up and change a seal.
Back in the 70's Ford had a problem with the carrier assembly. The metal was soft and the axle side gears would get lose in the housing and rattle when coming up to a stop sign. We changed a lot of them out which meant swapping the ring gear and axle pinions to the new housing. When you do a whole lot of 9 in rears you get pretty fast as setting them up.
Oh ya I was just about to apologize for how I formatted those videos. I thought it would be better to break it up into 2 separate videos. Now I realize people are more than capable of fast forwarding to see the parts they want and it's okay to make one video that's longer. I bet you have a wealth of knowledge being right in the middle of that during that time. I must have done something right if you said I did it correctly 🤣 I have since made a separate video that has the who process start to finish. I've gotten a little better at filming, explaining and editing these. Check this one out and let me know what you think unless that's the one you already watched. Either way, thanks for your comments ruclips.net/video/4AiRlaSExKA/видео.html
Yeah I really don't get this video as to set the preload you have to have the carrier out anyway. It's kind of misleading to someone who may not realize that.
There is nothing misleading. All of that is explained. The pinion needs to be removed not the carrier to set pre-load.
Thanks for the old classic car content.
You're very welcome
@@AlfsMustangGarage have you done a video on how to ID Ford rear end? 8 vs 9”, I was looking for the parts you listed, do they use the same parts?
I haven't done a video on that yet. The parts are not the same. Similar but larger on the 9".
Hi Alf, thanks a lot for this awesome video. I have a question. Does the crush sleeve come out without removing the pinion housing ?
Do you happen to know the torque spec for those first nuts you pulled off?
So when you loosen the NUT, you lock the road wheel & leaver/ hammer/impact drive against the gear teeth ? Thats a 200Ft/lb bolt , surely you will smash up the surface of the gears? I have seen other diff where people leave the wheels free , bolt a bar on the diff flange/ U-J & lever against that , are they being over cautious ? Your other vid you remove the pinion carrier & work on the bench , better . Also is it worth marking the UJ before dismantelling to get the prop back the same way round ?
I have a 71 Nova with this seal leaking, the local auto store is closed today however. Also my yoke is worn, two rings where the seal rides I think I'm gonna replace it also. Problem is I have no ideal what my for 9inch came out of. It's posi trac and has a N on the housing. Seems to be a 3:55 gear ratio. Are these common or all different?
So there were a lot of different yoke options on ford 9s. It might be best to take measurements and try to find a replacement online or if you have a local machine shop that does driveshaft could easily find a replacement. Or if you have someone local who just specializes in driveshafts. The original equipment u-joint size was either 1310 or 1330 series. The 1310 series is commonly known as the "small" u-joint and the 1330 series is known as the "large" u-joint. Both of these can be found on the Ford 9 inch rears. The original equipment hardware used to hold the u-joint into the pinion yoke was comprised of two 5/16 inch u-bolts.
You should note that the original 1310 and 1330 Ford 9 inch pinion yokes can be either 4 inches or 5 inches tall. They also can be designed for the 1 1/16th or the 1 1/8 inch (Big Cap) u-joint bearing cap diameter. Hope that helps 👍
@@AlfsMustangGarage Yes thank you so much, great info and channel.
You're welcome! Thanks for subscribing and commenting! Those things really do help me so I can keep making content 👍
When completing this job should I go ahead replace the 3rd member gasket as well? I have a leak in that area but I am not completely sure where it is coming from.
Ya that wouldn't hurt. There is the pinion seal, the pinion support O-ring, and the third member gasket. Here is the video on the third member gasket ruclips.net/video/sDXwTUzZCus/видео.html
Hopefully that helps.
does the pinion teeth have to line up a certain way with the ring gear when putting it back in? do you have to mark it before removing it? or can you just shove it back in any old way?
The pinion can go back in at any position. Those gears are in mesh with each other and will eventually make contact with every possible position as they turn. The pinion support only goes in one possible way with it's bolt pattern. You'll just want to make sure the same shim(s) go back into position that were removed when removing the pinion support.
@@AlfsMustangGarage thank you! your videos has helped me so much during my restoration.
You're very welcome! Glad I could help.
This is just me, but I keep a good screwdriver around that I have sharpened to a knife edge for this kind of purpose.
should use a block of wood or a socket of correct diameter.
My guy, I couldnt help but notice the car shaking and wiggling around as you were working on it. Is it up on 2x4's or something? Good for you but I dont think I could work under a car doing the jack stand shuffle.
Lol, that's actually the camera. I had it stretched on a bungie cord to get this filmed.
Pinion yoke, i cant extract a sheared off bolt outta mine, so i figured id just buy a new one, got the nut off no problem, but now i cant get the damn yoke off. Needs a puller huh? Dangit... this damn ford is driving me nuts.
2000 f350...
Did u use a new crash sleeve
Yes absolutely! I actually did a seperate video on that to demonstrate how to set the pinion bearing pre-load.
@@AlfsMustangGarage where is crush sleeve located
Check out this video. This one shows you the crust sleeve and how to set the pinion bearing pre-load ruclips.net/video/6eP-XoKLUS0/видео.html
I did this job, it fixed the leak. But now after driving awhile fluid leaks out of the yoke, from the input shaft around the splines. What is this reasoning?
Can you update pinion seal link for 9 inch please doesn’t seem to work :/
Thank you for bringing this to my attention. Looks like there is no one selling these on Amazon at the moment as to why the link doesn't work. I will get some sent to Amazon and re-activate the link.
is that the camera swinging or the whole vehicle...
Camera is swinging
I came to these comments to see if someone else noticed that lol. I was like "no way i'd be standing under there with it moving that much"
I would have put that shield on last to make it easier to drive in the pinion seal .
I was with ya till I seen the claw hammer 🔨 haha
Actually, the flat hammer head is better than the round, ball peen head which would be easier to make dents and deform the seal. Best to use a block.
Have you forgotten the o-ring?
Nope, didn't forget.
Can I pull the pinion support and replace the gasket without removing the yoke?
You can replace the o-ring around the pinion support. But in order to replace the pinion seal, the yoke must be removed.
@@AlfsMustangGarage My pinion support o-ring is definitely leaking, but the yoke seal is not...so you are saying that I can remove the bolts on the support and pull the entire assembly leaving the yoke bolted on, correct? Just don't want to make additional work for myself if not necessary. Thanks for the speedy reply too!
Yes absolutely. I think its just the 5 bolts and the pinion pulls out. Now keep in mind, there is going to be a shim or multiple shims behind that pinion support. Just make sure those go back on and it should be easy breezy.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks, appreciate it, and great video.
You're very welcome