Thank you for(d) this clear and helpfull video. I’ll be doing my 8” ‘66 mustang diff soon so i am glad to have seen this. Not only how to do it but also tips on what to watch and be careful with. Great!
Very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to do it. One question. I just rebuilt an 8in this weekend for my first attempt. In the kit with all the new bearings it had a new crush sleeve. But upon disassembly it didn't have one. So i didn't use it Now i cant sleep because I think i messed it up. What do you think? Thanks
Great video thanks for posting. How is the axle holding up nearly a year on? I would love to keep my 8" but I keep reading different power ratings online. Curries told me 300bhp max but not sure if this is their way to push the 9" axles they are selling. What power are you currently running through yours
Thanks David, the car isn't going serious racing but the 8 inch is fine if you don't plan on putting serious HP to the rear wheels. I think this set up is good for 400 to 450 HP. Hope all is well with you.
At this point ive seen so many different numbers for pinion preload, anywhere from 3lb-25lb... Head is spinning why does there not seem to be a go to process for rebuild on these?
Any update on this? What type of transmission did your car have? I'm swapping my C4 for an AOD, so trying to decide between 3.55 or 3.80. Mainly for street driving. High revs on highway was reason why I upgraded to AOD. Thoughts?
Great video except for one thing. What the heck is that piece you have in the small bearing. The area you cut off because it was to close, has a small bearing right next to it, but what the heck is that in the bearing now?? I have the bearing in there with the lock, but I dont have what ever that piece is in the small bearing you have. You got me worried now, help!!!!!
Maybe I am not seeing this right? Are you installing the crush sleeve and then taking it back apart and re-using the same crush sleeve when you install the pinion seal? I don't think you are supposed to re-use a crush sleeve. Why did you not just install the pinion seal the first install of the crush washer. I have no doubt you guys know what you are doing. I just don't understand it. Thanks for the video and please don't take my questions as a knock.
What exactly are you running for an engine in that car? What hp/tq? And have you gotten it out on the road yet? I have a 67 mustang with a 415hp/tq 347 , a c4 and an 8 inch rear. New motor, stock drivetrain. I may upgrade to aod but I'm not gonna put a manual trans in. Would love to stick with the 8 and do this exact set up due to the cost factor. This is a driver not a track car. Would love to know the results of this build and your opinion on the set up. I think these 8's are stronger than people think.
Jody, The car isn't on the street yet but for what my plans are this set up is perfect. I don't see any reason you couldn't build your 8" to handle your motor, as you noted they are way stronger then most people realize. If you aren't going to flog it at the drag strip and HP and torque are under 450sih this is fine.
I am trying to find what rear end I can swap into a 1975 ford maverick that has a 5 bolt 8 inch rear end. I am hoping to find one that comes with disc brakes.
3.55's are a happy medium if you are running a standard 3 speed automatic as in this car. A nice step up from freeway gears without ruing the daily driver feel. If you are putting it behind a 4 speed or 5 speed there is room for a more aggressive ratio.
I never understood why anyone would run the 8" rear! I'm just going by personal experience with completely stock ones. They didn't last very long under hard use,whereas the 9" were way more dependable, even completely stock!
Robert, As I stated in the video( I know it's a long one but hoping to help others) this is the first 8" I have ever built up like this one. The idea was to keep more of a budget build aspect while strengthening whats there. It won't be a high horsepower build at this point and that set up is more than strong enough to handle what the car will be doing at this point. Additionally literally millions of these units were put under 289 Fords so they are plentiful and not everyone can afford to sling a 9" out back.
@@MustangConnection1 When I was racing,it was the 70's. Parts were easy to get & cheap,compared to later years. I reminisce about my times,& can't comprehend todays prices! I bought 2 brand new Holley 600's for about $50 each! Also bought 8 289 hipo connecting rods for $8 each,brand new at Ford dealership! Good times!
great video. I have never built a transmission of differential. But it is mince to see how a professional builds one.
Great stuff. Thanks for letting us watch
Thanks for the perfect video 😃 i am just doing my ‘73 Maverick mini spool & 4.11’s now
Thank you for(d) this clear and helpfull video. I’ll be doing my 8” ‘66 mustang diff soon so i am glad to have seen this.
Not only how to do it but also tips on what to watch and be careful with.
Great!
Great, I hope it helps, best of luck on your 66 project
Great video. we just put posi in our 8 inch on our 62 Mercury Meteor with 3.80 gears.
What a great video. I have a '67 Mustang I'll be working on and think I'll rebuild the 8" it has on there with this. Thanks for posting!
Thanks and glad it helped! Good luck with your '67
@@MustangConnection1 i have the same rear end setup.. what was your break in procedure?
Nice to watch this. Your friend is great and knows his stuff👍👍
He does and he has been doing most of our transmissions lately too.
Wow great job! 👍🏻
Thanks for the informative video, the only experience with the rear end is installing a half shaft, but I really enjoyed this video. Cheers !
Cool and thank you, I realize it's long but wanted to go in depth for anyone looking to redo their pumpkin.
for a small block Mustang 1965, I have never broken a 8" differential. And I have only owned standard transmissions.
260 or 347 ??
Good to know!! I was unfamiliar with mine was worried a little but its only a 302 & no slicks to hook
That looks like a great set up if you are on a budget and aren't planning on big HP, if memory serves the 8 and 9 inch rear ends use the same axles.
Agreed, this one is pretty stout for this particular car.
I’ve watched this video probably 15 times end to end. I really want to try it myself, but nervous bc I don’t have a bench Vice.
Real good video
Love the video. You guys are great teachers?
Great instructional video, but you never showed or explained how to check and set pinion depth. Can you do a segment on this procedure?
Very informative video. Thanks for taking the time to do it. One question. I just rebuilt an 8in this weekend for my first attempt. In the kit with all the new bearings it had a new crush sleeve. But upon disassembly it didn't have one. So i didn't use it Now i cant sleep because I think i messed it up. What do you think? Thanks
Nice video! What is the part number for that nice aluminum pinion carrier? I can't seem to find it on the Quick Performance web page.
Great video thanks for posting. How is the axle holding up nearly a year on? I would love to keep my 8" but I keep reading different power ratings online. Curries told me 300bhp max but not sure if this is their way to push the 9" axles they are selling. What power are you currently running through yours
Thanks David, the car isn't going serious racing but the 8 inch is fine if you don't plan on putting serious HP to the rear wheels. I think this set up is good for 400 to 450 HP. Hope all is well with you.
Why does the kit have two crush spacers? Like the one that’s on pinion?
Didn't see the adjustment of the threaded ends on the carrier bearings. How is that adjusted??
At this point ive seen so many different numbers for pinion preload, anywhere from 3lb-25lb... Head is spinning why does there not seem to be a go to process for rebuild on these?
Just put a complete rear end assembly 31 spline posi 8.8 in it for the same price as a rebuild.
Any update on this? What type of transmission did your car have? I'm swapping my C4 for an AOD, so trying to decide between 3.55 or 3.80. Mainly for street driving. High revs on highway was reason why I upgraded to AOD. Thoughts?
Do these not have an oil slinger being the seal?
Great video except for one thing. What the heck is that piece you have in the small bearing. The area you cut off because it was to close, has a small bearing right next to it, but what the heck is that in the bearing now?? I have the bearing in there with the lock, but I dont have what ever that piece is in the small bearing you have. You got me worried now, help!!!!!
what if i ve forgot to mark before disassembling?
Maybe I am not seeing this right? Are you installing the crush sleeve and then taking it back apart and re-using the same crush sleeve when you install the pinion seal? I don't think you are supposed to re-use a crush sleeve. Why did you not just install the pinion seal the first install of the crush washer. I have no doubt you guys know what you are doing. I just don't understand it. Thanks for the video and please don't take my questions as a knock.
To get an accurate bearing preload reading
He didnt reuse it. There was a new one in the kit. They put it on, and when they tightened it, is was crusked, hence the name crush sleeve.
What exactly are you running for an engine in that car? What hp/tq? And have you gotten it out on the road yet? I have a 67 mustang with a 415hp/tq 347 , a c4 and an 8 inch rear. New motor, stock drivetrain. I may upgrade to aod but I'm not gonna put a manual trans in. Would love to stick with the 8 and do this exact set up due to the cost factor. This is a driver not a track car. Would love to know the results of this build and your opinion on the set up. I think these 8's are stronger than people think.
Jody, The car isn't on the street yet but for what my plans are this set up is perfect. I don't see any reason you couldn't build your 8" to handle your motor, as you noted they are way stronger then most people realize. If you aren't going to flog it at the drag strip and HP and torque are under 450sih this is fine.
Thanks for the reply. It's definitely under 450 and thats at the flexplate. I do like a good redlight burn out though.
All these years later man, I forget? Was the 9 incher stock on all V8 Mustangs '69-'73, or was it an option...
The 9 " was standard on all K code Mustangs 65-67, 390-67, 390 and 428 in 68 and then Boss, Mach 1, all 351 V8's up got them as standard 69-73.
Any motor bigger than 302 will typically have a 9in.
I am trying to find what rear end I can swap into a 1975 ford maverick that has a 5 bolt 8 inch rear end. I am hoping to find one that comes with disc brakes.
Keep looking around at comets, mavericks and monarchs/Versailles. They sometimes has 9"s you can swap directly in. Keep looking.
Is the drive shaft still gonna be centered?
Third member looks offset.
Pretty much that is how they look....driveshaft went in just fine.
Did you also install some forged axles?
No, the car isn't going to see much or any hard launches or drag racing.
Hey 3.55 gear how is it on the freeway?
3.55's are a happy medium if you are running a standard 3 speed automatic as in this car. A nice step up from freeway gears without ruing the daily driver feel. If you are putting it behind a 4 speed or 5 speed there is room for a more aggressive ratio.
@@MustangConnection1 I appreciate your response I was in a debate between 3.55 and 3.40
You get any higher, and when you go on the highway you would be over revving just to go highway speed, and revving all your gas away
What is total cost
I never understood why anyone would run the 8" rear! I'm just going by personal experience with completely stock ones. They didn't last very long under hard use,whereas the 9" were way more dependable, even completely stock!
Robert, As I stated in the video( I know it's a long one but hoping to help others) this is the first 8" I have ever built up like this one. The idea was to keep more of a budget build aspect while strengthening whats there. It won't be a high horsepower build at this point and that set up is more than strong enough to handle what the car will be doing at this point. Additionally literally millions of these units were put under 289 Fords so they are plentiful and not everyone can afford to sling a 9" out back.
@@MustangConnection1 When I was racing,it was the 70's. Parts were easy to get & cheap,compared to later years. I reminisce about my times,& can't comprehend todays prices! I bought 2 brand new Holley 600's for about $50 each! Also bought 8 289 hipo connecting rods for $8 each,brand new at Ford dealership! Good times!
@@Mike583 I know it's hard to believe how time flies!
9 inch rear r better
depends on your set up bro. for something hi performance i can see why youd need a 9
How much for everything?
Give them a call as most of these kits are built to your spec so pricing varies a bit. This set up was about $600 for the gears and trac loc set up.
@@MustangConnection1 rite on thanks man
A year later, hows that diff holding up?
Hasn't hit the road yet, will advise once it does.
My 59 says 3.56
Beautiful nice rear end setup but the traction control
But the traction control ? Not following.
Traction control in a old truck useless
@@ftswallday4357 What old truck, sorry not following again....this is going in a Mustang
You gotta stop talking over the old man and trying to finish what he's saying other than that great video thank you
no way would I do this - pass it to a pro