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How to Assemble a Ford 9 inch Third Member
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- This part 2 of our in depth guide to building Ford 9 inch Third Members, one of the most popular differentials for race enthusiasts. This is the assembly portion using the components prepped in part 1 of the Ford 9 inch build. Building several hundred Ford 9 inch Third Members each year, Erick gives a behind the scenes look into his assembly and explains why he uses these methods.
For Assembly Prep follow this link:
• Prepping to Build a Fo...
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:20 Recap
0:42 Pinion Support Assembly
4:01 Initial Install
6:44 Reading Contact Pattern
11:48 Final Install
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Great video
This is the best video I've seen, thank you.
Nice, not sure it is quite all that, but it's nice hearing from people if it helps, thanks!
Great video this guy knows his work excellent
Thank you for the kind words of support!
Fantastic! Very well done, thanks!
Thanks, we hope to get some free time to make more in the coming year.
@@rearwheelperformance could I leave the o ring out till I get the spacing correct?
@@mrjata You can, but we leave it there by habit, more than anything ,since it adds very little to the assembly and disassembly time.
Great vid, looking forward to more.
We are planning a lot more to come. Thanks for the encouragement!
Great video! Thank you! music gets pretty monotonous
Nice, thanks! We only had the choice of polarizing monotonous random sounds and dead silence, welcome to the RUclips.
Is this a high performance rear end? I cant see any shop doing this for a daily driver non performance vehicle. Your attention to detail is spectacular.
Thanks for the video. That’s a great set up.
Absolutely, and thanks for taking the time to comment!
I didnt see you torque the pinion nut. Is that supposed to be 250 lbs ?
Hi, loved your vids, and ive put mine together in the same way. What i have not seen and want to make sure i do correctly, is confirming the carrier bearing preload. Do you have a video on that? Thanks
I would check the pattern after everything is torqued.. Seemed that was missing in the instructions.
good
Big guy would think of a hamburger bun!
We used to call it oval, but more times than not, you don't get the expected oval shape. Using hamburger bun, you can try to set the heaviest concentration where the beef should be. 😉🍔
So, on my third member pinion support the bearings are the same. Would it be better to go with the spacer and shims, as you did, or the crush sleeve? Since the outer bearing is pressed on like the inner.
We prefer the solid spacer/shim style. It is easier to replace the pinion seal without having to remove the pinion support, and also saves a some assembly time when rebuilding or swapping gears down the road.
outstanding!
We're glad you found this info helpful!
Great video.
Thanks for the words of support!
Excellent step by step👍
@@danco8634 Thanks! We're glad our video hits the mark as an informative reference guide.
Awesome...nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Does the seal make your inch pounds of preload change? Wont it give you a false reading
The preload high/low spec has a variance in it of about 15-20 inch pounds. If there is a concern that it adds a little to the reading, you could just shoot for the just under the high side, knowing that it is maybe 1-2 in/lb less.
Thanks for the video, I always struggle with reading the pattern.
Your are very welcome, and thank you! If it helps one person, even one time, it's worth it. Stick around. we've got more coming!
hi, thank you for the video. I do have a question, I purchased a third member and noticed the adjustment nut keeper is not completely lined up with the adjustment ring. It’s kinked to the side a little as if they got it as close as possible and then just put the keeper through. Is this going to be a problem later or does it need to be completely straight?..
Depending on the manufacturer, some keepers are slightly slotted so that they can pivot slightly when being tightened, and some have longer tangs so that they can be lightly bent into place. It should not cause an issue if the side bearings are properly preloaded and the bearing caps are torqued properly. If it just looks terrible, you could remove the keeper(s), back off the bearing caps bolts a bit, tighten the adjuster(s) to the next hole, then reinstall and torque everything to spec. The amount of backlash shouldn't change significantly enough, but it can be re-checked if it is a concern.
Thank you so much for the reply. I appreciate it, you’ve been a huge help. 👍🏻 and by the way, the manufacturer that I had purchased from was Speedway motors here in Arizona
So you just guess on Carrier preload ? I seen another video the guy said he does tons of rear ends and he guesses on pinion preload... Humm
This feels like a facetious inquiry, but the differential case preload is checkable and adjustable, but almost impossible to get too tight due to the amount of flex in the case housing. The majority of (dare we say, all) oe and aftermarket performance driveline techs we've ever worked with will shim or screw the sides as tight as they can within sanity. As long as the preload is not loose enough to allow any amount of the case shifting, it will work fine. Pinion preload is easier and more critical to get right, so for a video we will demonstrate the proper procedure and checking methods, but any seasoned installer knows the feel of proper preload and will likely set by feel if necessary.
ammmmmmmmazing !
Thanks!
Just like guitar strings, always tighten to tune.
Surely
How Hard Is It To Rebuild A Ford F150 Differential?
ruclips.net/video/wx29zybk51k/видео.html
Assuming it is an 8.8, 9.765 or Super 8.8 rear, it is about the same installation procedures as most other common c-clip style axle assemblies from the last 50 or so years. Tools and experience are relative to the installers perception of level of difficulty.
Great video but please stop with the terrible sound track. We came to learn about the rear end and the dumb music was a huge distraction.