How to Replace a Differental Pinion Seal
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- This video will show you how to replace the differential pinion seal.
The main thing to do is to count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut that fastens the yoke on the pinion bearing. So when you put the nut back on, you will be able to get in the exact position when you removed it. This keeps all the setting the same.
This basically is the same method for most vehicles.
This car is a 1970 Chevy Chevelle.
I’m getting ready to do this in a few minutes, ... thanks for taking the time to record and share!!!! Much appreciated
You are welcome
Good job. It's best to mark the position of the u-joint as well. If you put it back together 180 degrees off, you may get a vibration in the driveline.
Never have that problem before but it doesn't hurt to put it back exactly the same.
This is way way old, but hiw do u get the driveshaft back in alignment
1. you need to lube the seal inside prior to putting yoke back in and 2. the pinion seal can be installed easier with a large pipe coupling or a socket instead of trying to tap around it with a hammer.
Good comments. I tap it around because I don't have a large socket. And I don't want to buy one because I don't use it enough.
Thanks for the video. I have to do this to a G20 van. Certainly helps watching someone do it first.
Yes, it makes it a lot easier.
Counting the threads that are exposed helps too.
Yes and mark the nut
Great tutorial David. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Well said.
Very fast , efficient with quality.
I don't want to reset all the stuff in there.
Thanks for the video will be doing this very soon on my 94 Firebird
Cool blog it
Great video, Thank you for making it. Just getting ready to do mine.
Go for it, you can do it.
Hey David, I finally got around to doing this. Did you use any of the RTV on the pinion splines? I read in a Haynes book that it is recommended. Have you had any leaks at all? Reason I ask is because I went by this and didn't put any on the splines. Thanks
No leaks. Never had a problem.
I only put RTV around the outside of the seal and never on the splines.
Thanks. Changing it went fairly smoothly and no leaks so far, but I'll just have to keep an eye on it.
Thank you for sharing this video
Makes it easier after watching someone do it.
Isn't it more about making sure you have the preload back where it was, then the tightness of the nut per se?
Correct
Yes
@@gregiles908 thanks
@@davidlis6709 thanks
RTV not correct for this job. No sealant at all is better than using
RTV here. If you must use sealant, use Shellac or Permatex Aircraft Head
Gasket Cement (same thing). Best is to go in dry or use thin layer of
bearing/chassis grease. You should however; grease the rubber portion
of the seal before installing the yoke. Make sure the sealing surface n
the yoke is very smooth and no burrs before install.
Thanks for the info. I have a habit of using RTV on a lot of things. I hate going it over because something leaks. Next one, I will try it your way.
@@davidlis6709 I hate doing things over too but these types of seals really don't need a sealant unless something is deformed/damaged. Cast iron of the differential housing not likely to be.
RTV is the wrong choice anywhere you cannot get the part sanitary clean, RTV WILL NOT stick to an oily contaminated surface. I know you cleaned it but doubt much adhered to the cast iron. It will cure however and if a chunk of cured RTV gets in a bearing it could cause a problem.
RTV can be a very good sealant but it's manufactures over promote it for automotive use. Shellac is a much better choice in an oily (coolant is also oily) environment but is harder to clean off during repair.
I ask myself, do I want it to not leak or do it want it to be easy to clean off? The choice is easy. But normally no sealant on these types of seals. A touch of grease and go.
High Temp Permatex works great for these seals, been doing it for years, ABSOLUTELY NO ISSUES. I use it around all drive in type seals, NO MATTER where it lives. Again, NEVER have an issue. Done thousands of them throughout my career as a tech.
If the seal leaks after the repair, it is either a cheap seal, outer pinion bearing is worn, faulty U-Joint, clogged rear axel housing breather, or it was damaged when Installing it.
The sealer you used was just fine, as long as you cleaned up the area before driving in the new seal. It's highly UNLIKELY it got into the outer pinion bearing, but even if it did, UNLIKELY, but hell I'll play along, it wouldn't damage the bearing anyways, that bearing would chew up that RTV and the gear oil, which lubricates the bearings, would take care of the rest.
Question David, since you were kind enough to make a video on this repair for others wanting to learn the basics, has it been leaking since the repair? It's going on 2 years ago now right? I'd venture to say, no it didn't.
Good video, no need to overthink a VERY VERY VERY BASIC repair.
@@PaulysAuto You are just wasting it (RTV)if you use it that way, minimum. RTV will not adhere to an oily surface and simply is not needed around that type of seal nor is it the design intent.
@@x-man5056 pretty much all Permatex RTV is oil resistant man. I use the stuff to seal diff covers, front covers, front seals, and axel seals etc all the time. The seals have potential to seap around the flange regardless if you agree with it or not. One would think you would clean up the sealing surface before Installing the seal, but hey what do I know.
Further, you should be looking at the outer pinion bearing for wear, that's a good time to find root cause of seal failure. Cleaning the seal surface is easy to do.
Waste maybe, paying customer, happy customer, well I'm ok with a little insurance.
Suspension fasteners require retorquing without anti-seize by design, break that rule daily...been fine without any issue for 19 years professionally bud...not worried about it.
Me encantan tus videos, eres el mejor, me han ayudado con mi chevelle 70.
Gracias
Great job, and you didn't scratch your Rolex either!
I have a bad habit of working with it on. Bought it in 1980 and it is still working good.
A short piece of 2x4 with a 1” hole in the middle makes an excellent seal driver. 😉
Good idea
Thank you !! Great video !
You are welcome. Hope it makes your job easier.
I dont get why you need to count the turns and mark? Surely it doesnt set the preload on the bearing and just butts up to a shoulder?
It does not set the preload. I want to get it as close as possible to the original setting.
@@davidlis6709 Did you torque the pinion nut to the correct specification? That seems to be the way to go in my opinion. I have also heard guys say that a new pinion nut should be used when replacing the seal too. Does anyone want to weigh in on these points? I am preparing to change the pinion deal on my '64 Dart soon and will also install new U-Joints when putting it back together. One and done is my philosophy.
@@EarthtonesCymbals I did not torque the pinion nut. I counted the turns so it would be in the same position as when I started. Did not want to change the position of anything because it has been working good (125,000 miles) in that position.
I used the same nut. I didn't think it needed a new one.
The U-Joints were in good shape so I did not change them.
@@EarthtonesCymbals should torque nut to 10 inch-lbs always to be sure it is tight
Great video! I've got a 70 Malibu myself that I'm going to be restoring over the next couple years. What brand of seal is that?
Any. I bought it at my local auto parts store. I believe they are all the same.
I never converted my to an SS. They burn to much gas and how fast can I go anyway. This way I can drive it around town and enjoy it. Mine happen to have A/C from the factory so my wife will ride in it during the summer. I have the 350, 2bbl carb, and a 4 speed Hurst shiftier.
I have many videos for you.
What color is yours and are you going to keep the vinyl top?
That's what I figured from looking online. I'm not a fan of those who convert a Malibu to an SS either. And that's a good added-benefit having the A/C haha.
I have the 307, 2bbl carb, and a powerglide in it. Down the road, I'd like to switch to a 350 with a 350 turbo trans. Mine from the factory was an Astro blue. The vinyl top is actually already gone. A previous owner removed it. It collected moisture judging from the surface rust that is on the roof. It came from Illinois, so you can imagine it's not nearly as clean as yours was from the start. Solid frame, but gonna need lower quarters, the trunk floor, and a full floor pan.
And I've kept up with your videos. You do great work!
Six Point socket is a great tip.
Can you imaging if you rounded off that nut. How would you get it off?
What if you have to use a impact to take nut off??
That will zip it off and you will have no count.
Its called pinion preload. Crush sleeve
Yes, that is the correct terminology
Ya wouldn't happen to remember the part number for that seal would ya?
No. I went to O Reilly Auto Parts. It is a standard seal used for years on several GM cars.
You will never get the proper preload on pinion