I just did this, and marked the threads with a white marker, but looks like I cleaned the markings off in between when I took off the nut or was cleaning off things. I think I aligned right, with the existing mark, but don’t know how many threads should be showing exactly. I was wondering how many threads you had showing with the nut? It may not be a right way to gauge mine, but was just wondering. What rear end gear ration are you running?
I don’t remember what gear was in it. I’m thinking the threads may show in the video. I marked mine with a chisel as well to be safe. Hopefully yours will be fine. This was on a 79 Silver Anniversary Trans Am
This pinion seal came from O'Reilly's and I believe is a Master Pro. National brand is more expensive or if you're having issues Napa typically has the best quality parts. Make sure there's not a ridge worn on the yolk and also to drive it in straight without bending it at all. Shouldn't need silicone but if you feel like you fo just put a tiny amount around the outer edge of the seal or housing as to not get any in the bearing. Thanks
It's important to get lined up perfectly before hammering in. I wish they'd make the seals with more of a lead in edge to make easier to start straight
@@dhammiam I used a #3896 seal & the # national 2043 for my 92 c1500 and neither will go flush? I don't know? Seems that it just will not go in further because both stop perfectly even leaving a gap .
@@dhammiam That may not be the correct seal for your truck. GM changed up the diff. Seals a lot in those years . Lots of variables. May be GM part #26064029 this fits “97” k1500 pickup.
This video just helped me fix my 70 Monte Carlo. Thanks!
Awesome, good job 👏 I’m happy to help 👍
You sure saved me some time with this description. Thanks for posting!
That’s great to hear, thank you. I’m glad I could help
Thanks. Not as bad as I thought. The repair that is. Great video.
I’m glad to hear that, thank you 👍
going to attempt this next week, hope I get this seal in straight
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you. I appreciate that
Right on!
Yea buddy 👍
Well done video
Thank you. I try to be straight to the point and quick repair as to not waste anyone’s time.
doe great work!!
Thank you!!
Unfortunately my DeWalt 1/2" impact wrench would not loosen the pinion nut!
I just did this, and marked the threads with a white marker, but looks like I cleaned the markings off in between when I took off the nut or was cleaning off things. I think I aligned right, with the existing mark, but don’t know how many threads should be showing exactly. I was wondering how many threads you had showing with the nut? It may not be a right way to gauge mine, but was just wondering. What rear end gear ration are you running?
I don’t remember what gear was in it. I’m thinking the threads may show in the video. I marked mine with a chisel as well to be safe. Hopefully yours will be fine. This was on a 79 Silver Anniversary Trans Am
Ty need to do this on my 73 lemans
Does a pinion seal leak cause the seeping of oil to the axle tubes ?
No it shouldn’t. There are axle seals at the end of the axle tubes to keep oil from getting into the brakes
Or you could use a piece of PVC pipe as a seal driver.
Do not grease the yoke as most seals today are installed dry
I was told if u change seal change crush sleve to but my buddy said he's never changed crush sleve
That’s the same seal that I had to put in my 97 Tahoe . GM discontinued the seal so I used a Timkin 2043 . Got it from Summitt Racing.
What kind of fluid goes in rear
So no preload tension or new crush sleeve?
Didn’t need it. That would be a different video
Can you identify the pinion seal that you recommend? I have the same car.
This pinion seal came from O'Reilly's and I believe is a Master Pro. National brand is more expensive or if you're having issues Napa typically has the best quality parts. Make sure there's not a ridge worn on the yolk and also to drive it in straight without bending it at all. Shouldn't need silicone but if you feel like you fo just put a tiny amount around the outer edge of the seal or housing as to not get any in the bearing. Thanks
@@dhammiam thank you Sir! Great video. Take care
Thank you. Take care and comment or ask questions anytime 👍
I even made a custom piece to install it and still nothing, guess Imma have to get a while new differential.
It's important to get lined up perfectly before hammering in. I wish they'd make the seals with more of a lead in edge to make easier to start straight
@@dhammiam I used a #3896 seal & the # national 2043 for my 92 c1500 and neither will go flush? I don't know? Seems that it just will not go in further because both stop perfectly even leaving a gap .
@@dhammiam That may not be the correct seal for your truck. GM changed up the diff. Seals a lot in those years . Lots of variables. May be GM part #26064029 this fits “97” k1500 pickup.
What is the milage on that car?
I believe it's 28k miles
Man I got the and set up on my c1500 and I cannot get my seal to go in flush. Damm why is it so difficult???
It's a bad feeling when you drive one in and see it's not centered or straight. Needs to be redesigned but it's been that way forever