2013+ GL450 air filter replacement (X166 chassis)(M278 engine)
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- Опубликовано: 12 авг 2019
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--------------- Hey guys here showing you how to replace the air filters on your 2013 Mercedes GL450. This should apply to ALL cars fitted with the M278 engine. Thanks for watching!
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Thank you for creating this video. I have this vehicle (not my choice) and was hoping I could change the air filters. German engineering, lol. After all the steps you have to go through with this, forget this! I may have to have the Mercedes repair place do it. Where can I get the air filters at least I can save some money that way. After watching this video, I want my Tahoe back (rust finished it off). It is so simple to change in a Tahoe or Suburban - remove a cover, take the old one out, put new one back in, replace cover. I also have a 1988 dodge daytona. Three plastic screws, remove the cover, and there is the air filter.
Thank you for the great and detailed info, best video online. One tip after doing it myself, you do not have to disconnect the sensor on the right side. It is not needed at all and not designed to be disconnected for this job. You just flip the filter housing in place after doing all the other steps you did. You will be able to unscrew the filter cover, clean the inside and replace the filter without any problem. This will make the job a lot easier and safer.
imad, you mean the sensor on the back of the box, right? But you still have to break the clamp in the front of the box right with the tube? So, if I understood what you are saying, break the clamp, remove tube, flip the box up to access the 4 screws. Is that right?
@@jooilim I did not need to do anything with the clamp or hose. Keep it attached, the hose is flexible. Follow all other steps, flip filter housing in place and change filter.
@@IB131MS got it. Thank you. I’m doing it this weekend.
I did it exactly the same way that imad did. Don't disconnect any hose or sensor..u can flip the filter and open the filter screws with a drill or screwdriver. Just be careful when flipping. Also I felt there was a junction to which all the sensors were attached . If I'd unscrewed that maybe there would be more play available with the sensors. Just my two cents
Yep - I do it the same way, no need to disconnect the sensor
Keep up the great work - If people don't follow your procedure - they need to be sitting behind a desk not under a hood -
Great video. I have a GL550 and I will be doing this on the weekend.
Very helpful video! Thank you!
Nice video. On that right side airbox I just rotated it at that valve you had to troubleshoot. Allowed me to turn the box over and access underside without breaking the clamp. Did unplug the cord that T's into it like your video recommended. Helped me a lot, don't think my air filters had been changed before (2014, 64k miles). So much for A and B service.
Agreed. And make sure you put a drop cloth under before you crack it open over the engine.
Rear right side connector is a twist and pull back to firewall
Good looking out for us on that clamp!
Thanks for the great video which gave me the confidence to do this myself. My 450 has 102,000 miles on it and I have owned it for 8,000 miles. My filters looked as bad as yours did so I’m pretty sure they are original since they have the MB logo on them. Both of my turbos failed at 95,000 miles and I am now wondering if not getting enough air flow to the engine could have been part of the problem! I also found it unnecessary to remove the middle hose on the drivers side and was able to rotate the housing enough to remove the screws in the bottom of the housing. Thanks again!
Very nice video and thanks for sharing.
I have a 14 gl450 and today I changed the #8 coil due to check engine light and had to go through pretty much same process, but did not brake the clamp to take out the filter box.
That’s maybe a job for next weekend. Change filters and SPs.
By the way, does any 12 point 14mm SP socket work for the gl 450?
I should answer this yes AND no. Some are too thick and others might not be able to bend at the correct angle.
I do have both at my disposal so whenever I encounter those plugs, I can use either or. What I recommend is to just buy a swivel 14mm 12pt spark plug socket made by CTA tools.
www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-1061-Socket-Swivel-14mm/dp/B06XVDFMR1/ref=asc_df_B06XVDFMR1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14880299468257670279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032004&hvtargid=pla-492549570363&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62497261819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14880299468257670279&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032004&hvtargid=pla-492549570363
good video on the air filter, thanks. But those air inlet ducts do matter. Those are cold air (or neutral air) intakes. Ambient temperature air flows through the grill and into the front of the duct and is mixed (after passing through the filter) with fuel. The engine compartment air is very high temp. The ambient air is whatever the outside temperature air is (much lower). Cooler by a significant factor. Cooler air is less dense, allowing for a better (easier) fuel/air mixture. those fabric hoses are essentially ace bandages glued to themselves. but a sealed tube of fabric, high heat plastic tubing, flexible metal tubing (like a water heater vent tube) is necessary to get the best fuel mixture and shift points by bringing air from outside the engine compartment and keeping engine compartment air from entering the cold air intake. If I had one destroyed I'd replace or remove them both. sucking hotter air on one side vs the other can cause some rough idle as well because the Computer is getting disparate temperature readings. particularly in winter after the engine get heated. and hot air is going in directly on one side and cold air the other. I replaced mine with water heater vent tubing and tradition clamps right onto the plastic oem fittings. The fabric is glued on so just rip it off. Looks good, last forever and deflects the engine heat better than the fabric. the best or nothing at all, right?
Wow, you made so much more work for yourself. I didn't disconnect any wires. Just those 2 hose clamps and the passenger connector just twist and pull away. The driver side, just pul up after the hose clamp is loosened. The passenger same, just pull that wire off the housing lid.
Thank you for the video. I didn't know how to change my filters🤔. Your video was so helpful. Thanks again 😃
Good morning do you have any videos on replacing spark plug on same mercedes you replaced filters on.
Unfortunately I do not. However with this video, you’re not too far from accessing the plugs. Under the air boxes you will find all 8 coil packs. Detach all the electrical connectors. Then the could packs are either held down by screws or they simply pull straight up. I will try and make a video on this as soon as I get a customers car in that is similar.
If you check out my channel and look at the other Mercedes videos, you will find me replacing a coil pack on a CLS63 amg motor. The coil packs should be similar.
@6.50: what kind of connector is this? Any specific name or part number by chance? Thanks!
Great video
Driver side is just stupid design on Mercedes part
That hose I just stupid you should be able to just pull it out but Not the case
They sure don’t make them easy to get out wow.
Any idea what is the resorvoir between the air filters towards the back with the black too? I read all the manual is not describe what kind of fluid it is. It said to check when engine is cold. My is empty.
That is the coolant reservoir for the turbos. Since they are water cooled they have their own cooling system reservoir.
Great appreciated, i open it and is empty do i need to add something there?? As always appreciated very much
dedalos99 If it is empty, yes you do. There is most likely a full line that would be the level you need to fill it up to.
dedalos99 Please DOUBLE CHECK to see if there is a specific fluid or coolant that needs to go in there before putting in regular coolant.
Thank you so much appreciated great
Replacing my with K&N today
Dealer wants 108+tax
K&N 102+tax
FCPEURO has them dirt cheap mann filters for 20 each!
Carlos Barrientos yep! FCPEURO is awesome.
Thank you for the effort, but for me the most ambiguous and complicated step in editing filters is the process of removing the connections, so I referred to it (at the sixth minute and forty-five seconds) and it did not explain how to implement it? How do I remove those mysterious connections?
There isn’t a mysterious connection. I completely explained what to do with those metal hose clamps. It’s up to you to decide which clamp you want to remove in order to take that air box off.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for your quick response. I didn't mean to belittle your business. But for me, as an ordinary person and not a professional, the most difficult step that I was unable to implement was the step of removing the connections in the filter on the driver’s side that were mentioned in the clip during the time from the minute 6 and 35 seconds. I did not know what tools would be suitable for removing the connection (the valve). I sincerely apologize to you. I would like to tell you that I do not speak English and use Google for translation. I would be glad if I could get clarification from you. I can contact you via e-mail if you wish
Thanks
@@user-iy1dw7rp3v No offense taken. It’s all good. If you look at time 4:17, you will see that I used a flat head screwdriver to pop the grey tab out away from the connector and then you can squeeze the black connector and slide the connector off the sensor. This is the same type of connection that is located behind the driver side airbox.
As far as the “valve” I think you’re talking about around 6:40-6:50ish you just need to squeeze that black tube with you hand on both sides of the tube and pull it up and out.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair ok thanks
Hi: where is a good access location to replace the upstream oxygen sensor of GL450 2014?
I’m sorry. This vehicle is a customer’s car here. I’m not sure exactly where that sensor is. I know it is before the catalyst however you would have to probably lie under the car to get a good view of it. Most are accessible from under the car.
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Mercedes needs to stop over complicating changing a air filter. This is the worst engineering accomplishment I’ve ever seen.
I think you mean engineering disaster. As they didn’t accomplish anything lol.
Totally agree with Austin226. Other cars are way much easier to replace/change their engine air filters! It is just like uncliping the air filter housing cover, replace a new filter, put the cover back on then clip clip clip…done.