For the future, just swap out the whole distribuor ass’y - consider you get new pickup, cap,rotor and the shaft and housing. It’s a simlpe swap and quite feesible
I had the prestolite in my 77 cj5 for over 300 000. Module or brain box became back ordered indefinitely. Put in GM hei. Very happy for about 60 000 so far. No issues.
Had the sticking solenoid also. Put a new one on. Before it got dusty the new one did it too. Wasn't a cheap one. Had me wondering about some of this new stuff.
When I rebuilt my distributor, I put a new pick up coil on there. It was backfiring didn’t wanna start ran like crap. Someone told me reverse the pick up wires that instantly solve the problem.
I like your style your commentary and camera work is excellent I'm glad you are here. I was firing the parts cannon at my 88 300-6 and one thing I replaced was the MAP sensor. 2 choices at Amazon $15 and $40. I bought the 15. Later I had the injectors replaced and it was running much better but it still had a small hesitation under load. The mechanic mentioned that he suspected the MAP. So I ordered the $40 and installed it now it finally runs perfect. It had sat 11 years while the widow fondly looked at it and remembered. It ran poorly from the beginning after I bought it. It took me one year of replacing parts to get it where it is now.
Hey man, love the truck. I had a 79 many years ago but sold it to give a down payment on my house. I’ll find another some day. But on the exhaust having no gasket is how they came from the factory. It didn’t blow out. Older GM’ a are the same. Good to see you getting the truck back on the road again. Great videos. Keep it up. Good luck.
@@lock_to_lock I always got the Mr.Gasket paper gaskets, soaked overnight in water, installed wet, after torquing, get up to normal temp, let engine cool and retorque all bolts and nuts. They never leaked again in 15 years I had it. The water causes gasket to swell, heat evaporates water leaving gasket formed to all imperfections that may exist between manifold and head, if it warped, the expanded gasket from water would take up the gap.
you broke the hall effect ring which causes a miss fire in modern trucks cars your abs and cams and cranks use that same set up sends signal to pcm or bcm for a comand for a output like to pulse your brakes for traction or for cam timing as you are speeding up
I believe from the factory they did not come with gaskets because both the heads and manifolds were machined flat and neither were warped. Did you use the old exhaust bolts or did you get new ones. I'm surprised a bolt was not broke off or you didn't break one. If you go w/ headers invest in locking bolts, good gaskets and good headers with thick mounting surfaces or you'll be chasing leaks every few months. I speak from experience. I'd hold onto the manifolds, just in case, lol. I'd also recommend a compound vacuum gauge to get an idea on timing if you cannot see the timing marks. Amazon has them for about $20 (Hromee Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester Gauge). Good luck and look forward to the next one.
Starting sounds like its advanced too much, make sure vacuum advance is plugged into the ported vacuum of carb, if it is at full manifold vacuum leave it un plugged block vacuum supply and start it up. If starts better call Holly for help in hooking up vacuum advance. You will need to reset timing to recommended base timing with advance disabled. Check wires and plugs, do not use Champion or autolite, these engines don't play well with those plugs, Genuine Motorcraft work the best.
Ive been working on my 78 f250 and found the wiring for the distibutor had a short in it. It was my dads truck so im looking into that holly sniper setup, just got the ole 2 barrel on there now. Been fighting fuel issue after the misfiring now lol replacing the whole entire fuel system now. Tanks were toast so all new everything should fix it! Look forward to seeing you get that thing going!
The sniper setup definitely makes things easy in the fuel department, I’m hoping to get this ignition issue sorted soon I wanna put some miles on this old truck. Good luck with your project!
Make it easy on ourselves Mark the rotor distributor, housing and tech and then pull the distributor out so much easier gonna work on this thing out of the car. Easier on your back to.
First off, get a new battery. Once it’s in check your charging voltage while running, it should be over 14vdc. If it isn’t, either the alternator is going bad or the voltage regulator is going bad or is bad. There are good videos out there on how to check both. The starter solenoid is only used to engage/disengage the starter motor, it in no way should be causing drivability issues. Is your Sniper EFI a first or second generation? The first generation units are very susceptible to RFI noise that cause issues similar issues to what you are having. I don’t think vapor lock is going to be an issue with an EFI system, but I would put at least a 1/2” spacer between the manifold and the Sniper, preferably a 1” spacer. Do not use an aluminum spacer, it just transfers the heat. Use either wood or phenolic. Keeping heat away from the computer which is mounted inside the sniper is important. I would also do a compression check. Weak cylinder(s) can cause idle issues.
The truck has a new battery, but I'll definitely take a look at those voltages you mentioned. My Sniper EFI is a 2nd generation, so I'm hoping I won't have any issues with this unit. I'll do a compression check, but I'm not sure if that's information I want to know at this point haha, just happy that it runs!
I would definitely keep the Ford Dura Spark distributor, MSD Uses the same pickup coil in they're distributors that Ford Designed in the 70'S. Wich says alot. You can easily connect an MSD Ignition box to the Duraspark Distributor. Easy, Reliable. Good for stock and performance engines. Up to ALOT of HP. 700-800. Have Scott at PPAM , Parkland Performance Auto Machine. in Washington send you a curved Duraspark. He is a Ford Expert/Guru.
Your condnser on your coil might be bad if it dies after it heats up??? Dont hold me to that. Your timing is to far advanced by the way it is starting. Those efi set ups belong in the trash in my opinion. Most people get tgem becouse they dont understand how to properly tune a carb, & they think the efi is modernizing their engine. All the adjustments made to a carb are still nedding to be made to the efi except your not manually doing the adjustments. Now your leaving it up to censors & a computer to make the adjustments & letting the computer decide when & how much. But the computer doesnt know any better. It doesnt understand the vehical may have a few issues that we are deciding to live with at the moment so it detects these issues & tries to over compensate for these issues. A good carburetor & i know they can be intimidating, but just taking the time to learn how to properly adjust a carb can make a man & his machine unstoppable! But a microwave putting out some funky singnals might shut your computer controlled system down.? Just sayin. When its out of your hands u can never know.
That was the original thought, but we replaced the old carb setup with a Holley Sniper EFI so now it has fuel supply and return. I’ll check spark in the next video to make sure that’s the issue
You don’t have to work nothing amateur has a slut lines up with a large in the shaft, and on the other one way the problem with those pick ups, sometimes are built with the wires crossed that will cause major backfiring when you try to start it up
For the future, just swap out the whole distribuor ass’y - consider you get new pickup, cap,rotor and the shaft and housing. It’s a simlpe swap and quite feesible
I had the prestolite in my 77 cj5 for over 300 000. Module or brain box became back ordered indefinitely. Put in GM hei. Very happy for about 60 000 so far. No issues.
Low voltage is probably why start solenoid stuck.
Had the sticking solenoid also. Put a new one on. Before it got dusty the new one did it too. Wasn't a cheap one. Had me wondering about some of this new stuff.
I bought a HEI GM style from CJ Pony parts and made a world of difference in how my 390 runs. Sniper is next on my to do list
A lot of people swear by those HEI distributors, I may end up going that route one of these days
When I rebuilt my distributor, I put a new pick up coil on there. It was backfiring didn’t wanna start ran like crap. Someone told me reverse the pick up wires that instantly solve the problem.
I like your style your commentary and camera work is excellent I'm glad you are here. I was firing the parts cannon at my 88 300-6 and one thing I replaced was the MAP sensor. 2 choices at Amazon $15 and $40. I bought the 15. Later I had the injectors replaced and it was running much better but it still had a small hesitation under load. The mechanic mentioned that he suspected the MAP. So I ordered the $40 and installed it now it finally runs perfect. It had sat 11 years while the widow fondly looked at it and remembered. It ran poorly from the beginning after I bought it. It took me one year of replacing parts to get it where it is now.
These old trucks take some work, but they sure are worth it! Thanks for the kind words ❤️
Hey man, love the truck. I had a 79 many years ago but sold it to give a down payment on my house. I’ll find another some day. But on the exhaust having no gasket is how they came from the factory. It didn’t blow out. Older GM’ a are the same. Good to see you getting the truck back on the road again. Great videos. Keep it up. Good luck.
Thanks!
@@lock_to_lock I always got the Mr.Gasket paper gaskets, soaked overnight in water, installed wet, after torquing, get up to normal temp, let engine cool and retorque all bolts and nuts. They never leaked again in 15 years I had it. The water causes gasket to swell, heat evaporates water leaving gasket formed to all imperfections that may exist between manifold and head, if it warped, the expanded gasket from water would take up the gap.
you broke the hall effect ring which causes a miss fire in modern trucks cars your abs and cams and cranks use that same set up sends signal to pcm or bcm for a comand for a output like to pulse your brakes for traction or for cam timing as you are speeding up
I believe from the factory they did not come with gaskets because both the heads and manifolds were machined flat and neither were warped. Did you use the old exhaust bolts or did you get new ones. I'm surprised a bolt was not broke off or you didn't break one. If you go w/ headers invest in locking bolts, good gaskets and good headers with thick mounting surfaces or you'll be chasing leaks every few months. I speak from experience. I'd hold onto the manifolds, just in case, lol. I'd also recommend a compound vacuum gauge to get an idea on timing if you cannot see the timing marks. Amazon has them for about $20 (Hromee Fuel Pump and Vacuum Tester Gauge). Good luck and look forward to the next one.
Good to know, thanks for the advice! I’ll check out that vacuum gauge
My SR has a very similar issue, misfires like crazy at temp. 😪 Can't wait to see this up and running, man! Such a rad truck.
You and me both!
This is great. I have a 79 f100 with 400 that been sitting since ‘18. Really want to get back into it and efu is my big want for it.
Can't beat how easy is with the Sniper EFI!
Starting sounds like its advanced too much, make sure vacuum advance is plugged into the ported vacuum of carb, if it is at full manifold vacuum leave it un plugged block vacuum supply and start it up. If starts better call Holly for help in hooking up vacuum advance. You will need to reset timing to recommended base timing with advance disabled. Check wires and plugs, do not use Champion or autolite, these engines don't play well with those plugs, Genuine Motorcraft work the best.
Appreciate the info! I’m quickly learning that Motorcraft is the way to go with pretty much everything on this truck.
Ive been working on my 78 f250 and found the wiring for the distibutor had a short in it. It was my dads truck so im looking into that holly sniper setup, just got the ole 2 barrel on there now. Been fighting fuel issue after the misfiring now lol replacing the whole entire fuel system now. Tanks were toast so all new everything should fix it! Look forward to seeing you get that thing going!
The sniper setup definitely makes things easy in the fuel department, I’m hoping to get this ignition issue sorted soon I wanna put some miles on this old truck. Good luck with your project!
For a little more money you could have an HEI DISTRIBUTOR it's one of the good things from GM
I may end up doing that in the future
I have a 429 stroker kit for that motor
Make it easy on ourselves Mark the rotor distributor, housing and tech and then pull the distributor out so much easier gonna work on this thing out of the car. Easier on your back to.
C heck all your grounds, clean all your connections, might have to sand your frame ,but check your grounds,,,might want to use new wires,,
Get under the truck and clean the marks on the damper so you can see to time it properly.
Yes sir
That slow crank is from to much base timing
It seems like the commentary is mostly you sharing what the voices in your head are saying 😂🖤
Haha pretty much!
First off, get a new battery. Once it’s in check your charging voltage while running, it should be over 14vdc. If it isn’t, either the alternator is going bad or the voltage regulator is going bad or is bad. There are good videos out there on how to check both.
The starter solenoid is only used to engage/disengage the starter motor, it in no way should be causing drivability issues.
Is your Sniper EFI a first or second generation? The first generation units are very susceptible to RFI noise that cause issues similar issues to what you are having.
I don’t think vapor lock is going to be an issue with an EFI system, but I would put at least a 1/2” spacer between the manifold and the Sniper, preferably a 1” spacer. Do not use an aluminum spacer, it just transfers the heat. Use either wood or phenolic. Keeping heat away from the computer which is mounted inside the sniper is important.
I would also do a compression check. Weak cylinder(s) can cause idle issues.
The truck has a new battery, but I'll definitely take a look at those voltages you mentioned. My Sniper EFI is a 2nd generation, so I'm hoping I won't have any issues with this unit. I'll do a compression check, but I'm not sure if that's information I want to know at this point haha, just happy that it runs!
Not the module. Its the coil
I would definitely keep the Ford Dura Spark distributor, MSD Uses the same pickup coil in they're distributors that Ford Designed in the 70'S. Wich says alot.
You can easily connect an MSD Ignition box to the Duraspark Distributor.
Easy, Reliable.
Good for stock and performance engines. Up to ALOT of HP. 700-800.
Have Scott at PPAM , Parkland Performance Auto Machine. in Washington send you a curved Duraspark.
He is a Ford Expert/Guru.
Your condnser on your coil might be bad if it dies after it heats up??? Dont hold me to that. Your timing is to far advanced by the way it is starting. Those efi set ups belong in the trash in my opinion. Most people get tgem becouse they dont understand how to properly tune a carb, & they think the efi is modernizing their engine. All the adjustments made to a carb are still nedding to be made to the efi except your not manually doing the adjustments. Now your leaving it up to censors & a computer to make the adjustments & letting the computer decide when & how much. But the computer doesnt know any better. It doesnt understand the vehical may have a few issues that we are deciding to live with at the moment so it detects these issues & tries to over compensate for these issues. A good carburetor & i know they can be intimidating, but just taking the time to learn how to properly adjust a carb can make a man & his machine unstoppable! But a microwave putting out some funky singnals might shut your computer controlled system down.? Just sayin. When its out of your hands u can never know.
Just get Pertronix, going on 20yrs.
efi needs to relearn since exhaust leak gone
Adjust your static timing
get a copper connector dist cap
Stops running when hot maybe your getting vapor locked ?
That was the original thought, but we replaced the old carb setup with a Holley Sniper EFI so now it has fuel supply and return. I’ll check spark in the next video to make sure that’s the issue
Your timing needs a little adjustment
Peaty?? That you?
🤣
Rotor. Not armature.
Roger that 🫡
Update sniper
You don’t have to work nothing amateur has a slut lines up with a large in the shaft, and on the other one way the problem with those pick ups, sometimes are built with the wires crossed that will cause major backfiring when you try to start it up
Sorry, this lousy speech texting twist my words around
All good!
will never run correctly with exhaust lead because the o2 sensor cannot read correctly
Put a ford hei in it and be done....
I may end up doing that!