8:39 I've been using the nut and hammer method for a while now and always lift the engine/unit with maybe three fingers under the flywheel magnet area if possible, enough to get part of the weight in one hand while I hammer on the nut with the other hand. I tend to take multiple fairly light blows until the flywheel comes loose. That works pretty well and I've never had to resort to using a lever under the flywheel, which I know can result in damage. Recently I saw someone use the nut method but using a much better technique. They put a socket and extension on the nut and hit the end of the extension instead. This seems like a winner to me, although I haven't tried it yet. It would definitely help with flywheels where the fins are on top with pawls somewhat in the way of striking easily with a hammer, plus the force would all be safely directed to the nut instead of the crankshaft. I'm thinking now I could actually double nut the crankshaft to spread the load out to even more threads. 10:41 Was this the typical molded in key I see in all the Husqvarna rebranded Poulan and Craftsman equipment? That's one of the few really bad ideas I've seen come out of this company. It might save the company labor time in assembly but since the key is supposed to be sacrificial they're not really looking out for the end user's best interests since a key is a lot cheaper and easier to acquire than a flywheel. i know it's only there for initial alignment purposes, but a separate key is not really that much of a pain to install and the number of units that have sheared keys is pretty large! Oh well! ;-)
That was a ruff flywheel ,I enjoyed the lesson keepem coming Lester. And thanks
8:39 I've been using the nut and hammer method for a while now and always lift the engine/unit with maybe three fingers under the flywheel magnet area if possible, enough to get part of the weight in one hand while I hammer on the nut with the other hand. I tend to take multiple fairly light blows until the flywheel comes loose. That works pretty well and I've never had to resort to using a lever under the flywheel, which I know can result in damage. Recently I saw someone use the nut method but using a much better technique. They put a socket and extension on the nut and hit the end of the extension instead. This seems like a winner to me, although I haven't tried it yet. It would definitely help with flywheels where the fins are on top with pawls somewhat in the way of striking easily with a hammer, plus the force would all be safely directed to the nut instead of the crankshaft. I'm thinking now I could actually double nut the crankshaft to spread the load out to even more threads.
10:41 Was this the typical molded in key I see in all the Husqvarna rebranded Poulan and Craftsman equipment? That's one of the few really bad ideas I've seen come out of this company. It might save the company labor time in assembly but since the key is supposed to be sacrificial they're not really looking out for the end user's best interests since a key is a lot cheaper and easier to acquire than a flywheel. i know it's only there for initial alignment purposes, but a separate key is not really that much of a pain to install and the number of units that have sheared keys is pretty large! Oh well! ;-)