Nissan Patrol GU Y61 - Recovery Points Installation
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2018
- A short video showing you how to install a set of rated recovery (tow) points to a Y61 GU Nissan Patrol.
In the market for some aftermarket recovery points for your 4x4 off-road vehicle? Does your vehicle come equipped with factory 'recovery', 'tow' or 'tie-down' points? Are they suitable for recovery situations?
There are two very important considerations when it comes to purchasing and installing off-road (4x4) vehicle recovery points. Not all 'recovery' points are the same, not all are equal...
1. The recovery point itself and
2. The vehicle's chassis
Some recovery situations can generate forces up to 2 to 3 times the vehicle's Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM). These forces are transmitted through the recovery gear (eg. bow shackles, snatch straps etc.) to the vehicle's recovery point(s) and then through to the vehicle's chassis. Whilst rated recovery gear is essential, what is the vehicle's chassis rated to? A properly engineered, tested and approved recovery point will allow the safe transmission of forces generated from the recovery through to the recovery point and ultimately the chassis. Therefore, a properly engineered recovery point considers not only the recovery point but also how it attaches to the chassis and ensures it won't damage the chassis at the full load rating of the recovery point.
Remember, a strong recovery point is only as weak as the chassis it is attached to... 
Хобби
Probably the least required modification on a Patrol! 🤙
Nice video mate. Keep it up
Hey brother, just throwing sharing this on my channel. good work!
No worries mate, feel free to share. Thanks for the feedback!
Nice work man
Put the flat washer on first and then the spring washer. Flat washer then torques up hard against the spring washer.
Spring washers are not good engineering practice, leave them out! Jimmy
Nicely presented. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Nice video thanks for sharing
Glad you liked it
Spring washers are not good engineering practice anyway so better off without them especially if they are of poor quality. I'm not sure if the Loctite would be that helpful in holding them with damp WD40 but good for the other reasons mentioned. Great video though ! Jimmy
Tnks for the useful video! please, any link to the store you got this product from should be welcomed.
I never use those split spring washers.
I prefer a hardened washer and nyloc nuts.
What mil socket are you using cheers
Hey mate, I finally found a video on recovery points for GU patrol so thanks for that. Secondly, where did you buy the points from and how much as I would like to get them from my Patrol. Cheers.
Hi Steve, no problem. Sure, they are Roadsafe Recovery/Tow Points. Do a Google search for them as a number of people sell them (eg. Patrolapart). They are about $140 AUD.
@@NJSInstructional Thanks for that.
One more question mate, what series is the 2011 patrol as there are so many recovery points to choose from, I'm not sure about the series. Thanks.
@@stavio12 Hi Steve, they should be compatible for all Y61 Series Patrols.
@@NJSInstructional OK thanks mate.
Why did you use the wired nut on the sides like that
Are the stock recovery points not recommended for when you get bogged off road?
I dont think they are recovery points I think they may be factory tie downs used to secure the car when it's being transported, not rated for recovery
Hi, thanks for the vid.
What was the purpose of those wires (on the retainer nut/plates) that you removed?? Thanks.
Hi Rob, excellent question but I'm not sure. I found they got in the way so I just removed them...
Im also interested in this.
on some vehicles, especially after fitting bullbar and bash plate, it can be difficult to have enough room for your hand to place the nut into position. The wire can help you navigate the nut through small gaps, snap the wire off only after tightening the bolt. Also, it was used during manufacturing for welding the back plate onto the nut as well as a hanger for painting/powder coating, they don`t have to remove it in the factory to save some labour cost.
Makes sense. Thanks for solving this problem! Cheers
On some early patrols, if you want to fit a recover point on the passenger side, there are holes there, but no nuts on the inside of the chassis rail so the bolts would not tighten and just spin freely. You're meant to take your front bar off and bull bar to expose the opening of the chassis rail, straighten out those wires that are connected to the nuts and slide them on the inside of the chassis rail. Then line up your recovery point and thread the bolt trough and into the nut that you've got inside the chassis rail. Does that make sense? That's why there is a square bit of metal welded to the nut, so that when you thread the bolt into the nut, it won't just spin with the bolt.
Okay mine have just come in the post. It's taken 9 days. Mine did not come with the washers or the spring washers. Like In your video. Any idea if these are specialty washer or just go to my local Bunnings and get some? Thanks
They should come with all the washers. I'd go back to the place you purchased them from and make some enquiries.
Nice video, if I don't have a torque wrench do I just go as tight as the socket wrench will go.
I recommend you purchase a Torque Wrench and torque the fasteners. Going on how it feels isn't a great gauge on how tight it should be. Best to do it properly, especially on such a critical item which if not installed correctly could be disastrous.
@@NJSInstructionalok cheers, Just spoke to my next door neighbour and he has a torque wrench. So I can just use a normal socket wrench at the start and then finish off with the torque wrench correct. Cheers
210 nm my ass. I almost broke my arm and the torque wrench still didn't click.
You get what you pay for....perfect tie downs for on the back of a flat bed
On the side with the deformed mounting member, it appears that you used the supplied hardware to pull it back into position. You’ve compromised the hardware by doing so. You should have used some other sacrificial hardware for that part of the operation, and then discarded since there is no way of knowing how that may have reduced the yield strength of the hardware.
Further, once you torque down specially hardened hardware, it should not be removed and reused as the threads will have stretched. The same torque setting will never have the same clamping force after the first installation and it will be impossible to estimate how much extra torque should be applied to compensate...it may even be the case that the extra torque needed could exceed the yield strength of the hardware.
Never reuse torqued hardware for this reason. You made a significant investment in these recovery points, but if you compromise the supplied hardware, you might as well stay with the stock tow hooks and save yourself the cash.
aka Dingleberries.
Anyone know if these will fit with an ARB Deluxe bull bar? Roadsafe's fitment guide says they will, but it looks to me like you wouldn't be able to get a shackle through the large hole due to the diagonal bull bar supports.
Use soft shackles
@@sexatica I ended up putting these on my car and the bow shackles fit through the holes fine. Soft shackles are no good on recovery points like this as the sharp edges will end up cutting through the shackle.
@@shed_guy ahh ok. Thinking of buying them as I just got a patrol yesterday
My mate watching this video and i over heard. Who the fuck uses a torque wrench and loktite for a fucking recovery point 😂
@the end of the day: SOMETHING will FAIL.
I personally would rather like the recovery point to break than the frame of my car!!!
My E350 4,5t truck had a frame of 5 mm C channel frame. If the robe does not fail and I fit a 12mm recovery point, the 5mm frame is by far the weakest point.
Dodgy work.