thanks for the video... better to start at top so your overlaps catch any moisture that gets through your ridge vent or condensation and lets it drain out your soffit vents
I'll give you a thumbs up, but you installed the vents where the higher vents are supposed to drain water down to the soffit in case of a roof leak. You did well and appreciate the time to make the video.
My 1.5 story house only had 2 roof end vents when I bought it. I’ve added soffit vents, roof vents, and this video has helped me with the installation of these ducts as well. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for the video cause now I understand what is a baffle. I asked and employee of ADO insulation whats the difference between vent and baffle and the answer is "it the same it just how people use the term".
Condensation and water stains mold always an issue in roofs so having layers drain correctly is very important just like how roof shingles work except singles facing the inside of the roof
Awesome video! Question…if I’m only applying insulation to a portion I the roof (not as far down as eves vents and not as high as the roof), can I just put the baffles on the areas that are getting insulation but extending them just beyond the insulation
Thanks for an excellent video. I need to install insulation baffles in an attic with a very shallow angle (pitch?) There will be no dry wall or living space there. I just wish to avoid covering the eave vents with the new insulation that will be blown in. There is no ridge vent on this old house, just box vents near the ridge. I think just one baffle panel (4ft.+/-) leading to each eave vent will do the job. Correct?
Sorry for the spelling what I meant to say was I had mold start on the drywall in front of the garage door Went up in the rafters And the builder put insulation over the softs so I removed it
I see you added multiple baffles. Should I just go ahead and use 1 or 2 since I won’t be finishing my attic and the goal is for adding more insulation? Let me know!
Best insulation for attic? It has foam about 6-8 inches but noticed my home gets cold right after turning heater off or at night/morning. My crawlspace doesn’t have any insulation either ughhh :/
You overlapped each section should it not be underlapped ..so new section is under the previous one ... This is so any water or condensation will drip from tray to tray out the soffit vents and not wet the insulation causing mold and ceiling stains ???
@@LS-vu9dethats how u suppose to do it. Air still goes but if theres any condensation the water goes down he underlapped so water would drain to insulation
Hi, but you want the hot air to move up the baffle and exit through the roof vent so you can keep the temp in your attic low. So Q1, why not go all the way up with the baffle. and Q2. why not install insulation on top of the installed baffle so the temp in the attic is low hence, heat or cold air will not escape?
Hello, do you think 4 ft baffle from the edge vents along the house is enough, then follow the rest with reflective barrier close to the top like you finished? I live in the charleston sc area, it is humid AF outside and inside the attic is hot usually 90-100+ in the summer. House has no baffles just vent ridge at top like yours and side edge vents like on this video. Any help is appreciated
This video helped me so much. So I'm hoping you can help me with my project. I just purchased a 12x12 shed that I want to insulate so I can be in there everyday and possibly sleep in some nights. I was told my best option was to get spray foam insulation for the ceiling, but it's very expensive. Watching this video helped me understand the importance of ventilation and I want to do it right. It has I guess what you call a cathedral ceiling and I want to keep it open for the extra space. I have a metal roof that has a ridge vent on it but it's not screened to keep bugs and other stuff out. The ceiling is made of 2x4 rafters. So it makes it hard to put the right amount of r value for insulation. What do you suggest I do?
I could probably add some 2x6s. If I insulate just like you did in this video, will I need to have soffit vents below the baffles in each rafter? And will my ridge vent be suitable for what I am doing? I will be adding a mesh to ridge vent or buy new one so bugs and other things can't get in.
Thanks for the video. I am working on an older house which has 2x6s for the rafters. I am trying to minimize air clearance to the greatest extent possible. What is the air vent clearance on this specific product?
is it safe to staple into the roofing boards? I know shingles are nailed in from outside in. I just don't know if stapling nails going from inside to outside would cause water leakage.
Do you tape the over lap. Do you then put batts, and can you then put RMax ridge foam then gypsum rock. I have a cathedral ceiling, with metal roof 4:12 pitch. Judy
Thanks for posting. I am retrofitting our attic that is a 12/12 pitch. Poor insulation with no airflow from the eve vents due to insulation and lack of air channel. I am hoping I can correct this issue with the product you are using. I am planning at starting at the vent, like you and then proceed up the roof plane past the second story and into the attic. Cheers
Are you saying you are connecting vents level with the ceiling of your first floor via the slopped ceiling and going all the way to your attic? It's a good idea for slopped ceilings.
Do attic baffles block any radiant heat if you run them between your rafters, up towards the roof ridge vent? I have a bunch of extra baffles, so i was going to use them up in that manner if they blocked some of the roofs radiant heat.
Super helpful!! One question…I have two “non-standard” sections (one 7-1/2” W and the other 10” W). I bought the exact 14” W baffles at Home Depot. Do I just cut them down? Will that impact air flow? Thanks so much!!
do you have to "shave down" the insulation where the vent changes angle to meet the sill? seems otherwise the batting would force the vent up towards the OSB and defeat the whole purpose...
What do you do if nails are going through the plywood of the roof? Should I cut the nails, bend the nails with a hammer, or ignore them and let them pierce the baffles?
Always leave the nails alone - don’t cut them, don’t push them back, don’t bend them. If necessary, poke a hole in the baffle to let the roofing nail pass through.
I only have about 12 soffit vents around my house. Should I install only 12 baffles for each vent before blowing insulation or do I need one baffle in between each rafter?
@@chrisp.76 - the problem is that more soffits should be vented before doing as you stated - you are correct that all rafter sections need to allow for ventilation.
@@PhillipsVision Ok thanks for reply. What do you suggest for my 7' high, R-C 2x6 walls at 24"oc-ish? HD only has this for 2x6 walls>> {R-19 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Insulation Roll 23 in. x 39.2 ft.} But it says 6-1/4" thick, isn't that to thick for 2x6 walls? But I dont see anything else to use........
So do you have to pick staples that are shorter than the thickness of the roof sheathing? If the staples are too long, they'll puncture the ice and water shield beneath the shingles or the shingles themselves causing leaks. Not a word about this.
You need to run the baffle up to the vent, then install the insulation over the baffle. Do not apply the insulation over the vents without baffle in place to keep the air flow
That is the wrong baffle for retrofit. That type is meant for new installations before the sheating goes on to the roof. Please don't use these and risk penetrating your roofing layer with staples. They make ones that fit between the studs and have flaps that come into the space and allow you to staple them to the rafters instead.
@@Dave-co1cv The other problem you run into is that these will sit flat 1" on each side next to the rafters. Cutting off any airflow down that strip and only allowing air where the middle bows out. I made mention of that as this was a DIY suggestion and most people wouldn't think to check the standard thickness of roofing sheathing.
thanks for the video... better to start at top so your overlaps catch any moisture that gets through your ridge vent or condensation and lets it drain out your soffit vents
I'll give you a thumbs up, but you installed the vents where the higher vents are supposed to drain water down to the soffit in case of a roof leak. You did well and appreciate the time to make the video.
My 1.5 story house only had 2 roof end vents when I bought it. I’ve added soffit vents, roof vents, and this video has helped me with the installation of these ducts as well. Thanks for this video!
You’re welcome, glad it helped 👍
Glad I found this video! You are saving us a heck or a ton of work and expenses with this tutorial. Thank you!
Thanks for the video cause now I understand what is a baffle. I asked and employee of ADO insulation whats the difference between vent and baffle and the answer is "it the same it just how people use the term".
That’s a wrong answer..lol
Condensation and water stains mold always an issue in roofs so having layers drain correctly is very important just like how roof shingles work except singles facing the inside of the roof
Thank you for the detailed and slow explanation! This is my first time and this is very easy to understand. Nice work!
Great video! My first time installing insulation...glad I saw this prior to starting!
Glad it helped 👍
Thank you for this video. It's just what I needed to see.
Wow what an awesome video. can I put plastic on top of the insulation
Yes, some builders do that
Awesome video! Question…if I’m only applying insulation to a portion I the roof (not as far down as eves vents and not as high as the roof), can I just put the baffles on the areas that are getting insulation but extending them just beyond the insulation
Yes. As long as you keep ventilation where the insulation is
@@PhillipsVision wow. Thank you for the swift response! You rock!
Thanks for already asking this, Tiffany. I had the same question!
Thanks for an excellent video. I need to install insulation baffles in an attic with a very shallow angle (pitch?) There will be no dry wall or living space there. I just wish to avoid covering the eave vents with the new insulation that will be blown in. There is no ridge vent on this old house, just box vents near the ridge. I think just one baffle panel (4ft.+/-) leading to each eave vent will do the job. Correct?
Should be fine as long as the air flow goes from the eaves vent to the box vent.
Thanks 😊 this is my first time doing this. Ready to go now 👍
Seriously awesome tutorial! Question with a lean to roof that attaches to another lean to roof with no ridge vents how can I make this work?
Great video! Would you also install radiant barrier underneath?? Like over joist.
I don’t, just baffle and insulation. If you live in a hot climate the radiant barrier might help.
Good video I had mold start in my garage when up is brush went up antiotic and the guy had the vent covered with insulation so I took it out good idea
Over the garage
With the air flow obstructed, moisture will get trapped in there
Sorry for the spelling what I meant to say was I had mold start on the drywall in front of the garage door Went up in the rafters And the builder put insulation over the softs so I removed it
So insallation can be placed right on teh baffle vents and then dry wall? Air will flow between baffle vent and wood?
Thank you for your kind and great advice.
I see you added multiple baffles. Should I just go ahead and use 1 or 2 since I won’t be finishing my attic and the goal is for adding more insulation? Let me know!
You need to install enough baffle to provide air flow from the eaves vent to the ridge vent, or open area above the ceiling
Best insulation for attic? It has foam about 6-8 inches but noticed my home gets cold right after turning heater off or at night/morning. My crawlspace doesn’t have any insulation either ughhh :/
R38 or R49 is best for attics
Great video! I really, really need to do this.
You overlapped each section should it not be underlapped ..so new section is under the previous one ... This is so any water or condensation will drip from tray to tray out the soffit vents and not wet the insulation causing mold and ceiling stains ???
It’s overlapped so the air flow and moisture flow up to the roof vent.
Yes always shingle effect everything..shit runs down hill
I am thinking about underlapping for water flow but putting a bead of caulk or window foam in the overlap to prevent air leak. Am I overdoing it?
@@LS-vu9dethats how u suppose to do it. Air still goes but if theres any condensation the water goes down he underlapped so water would drain to insulation
Hi, but you want the hot air to move up the baffle and exit through the roof vent so you can keep the temp in your attic low. So Q1, why not go all the way up with the baffle. and Q2. why not install insulation on top of the installed baffle so the temp in the attic is low hence, heat or cold air will not escape?
Exactly the tutorial I needed. Thanks!
Thanks for this my friend
If you weren't finishing off the attic (ie, the whole space was to remain unfinished), how high should the rafter vents go up?
Above the horizontal beams, high enough to go above any insulation above the ceiling
If dry walking to the top of the cathedral, baffling to top would be similar to the bottom where you started off?
Yes, the baffle will need to provide a clear air flow path ft the eaves vents to the ridge vent
Thank you for your quick reply, Sir. Thank you for your videos.
Hello, do you think 4 ft baffle from the edge vents along the house is enough, then follow the rest with reflective barrier close to the top like you finished? I live in the charleston sc area, it is humid AF outside and inside the attic is hot usually 90-100+ in the summer. House has no baffles just vent ridge at top like yours and side edge vents like on this video. Any help is appreciated
If you’re going to seal up the rafters you want to run baffle all the way from ridge to eaves vents to keep air flow
Very informative video! Can you tell me what size staples do you use? I just got roof installed and they use 1/2" thick plywood
I stapled mine to rafters . It has a little sag in the middle
Thanks for this video.
Did the protruding roofing nails ever get in the way of installing these?
No issues
I am thinking about underlapping for water flow but putting a bead of caulk or window foam in the overlap to prevent air leak. Am I overdoing it?
Watch the video was very informative I have a question though My roof rafters in between are 19" should I get the 22"
No, go with an 18” if possible
@@PhillipsVision they only have 14 or 22 home depot and lowes should I do the 14
@@chriscomicsanime4489 I would
@@PhillipsVision hell yeah, this is the exact question i came to ask.
This is a huge help. Thank you for posting
This video helped me so much. So I'm hoping you can help me with my project. I just purchased a 12x12 shed that I want to insulate so I can be in there everyday and possibly sleep in some nights. I was told my best option was to get spray foam insulation for the ceiling, but it's very expensive. Watching this video helped me understand the importance of ventilation and I want to do it right. It has I guess what you call a cathedral ceiling and I want to keep it open for the extra space. I have a metal roof that has a ridge vent on it but it's not screened to keep bugs and other stuff out. The ceiling is made of 2x4 rafters. So it makes it hard to put the right amount of r value for insulation. What do you suggest I do?
Since your beams are 2x4 you’ll probably need a thinner insulation, but as a result you’re sacrificing insulating material.
I could probably add some 2x6s. If I insulate just like you did in this video, will I need to have soffit vents below the baffles in each rafter? And will my ridge vent be suitable for what I am doing? I will be adding a mesh to ridge vent or buy new one so bugs and other things can't get in.
@@doriswallace2618 for baffle use you need soffit and ridge vents so the air can flow through
Thanks for the video. I am working on an older house which has 2x6s for the rafters. I am trying to minimize air clearance to the greatest extent possible. What is the air vent clearance on this specific product?
I have similar looking baffles with 1.5” clearance
Great video!! Thank you so much.
Fantastic video. Thanks so much for sharing!
You’re welcome
Once you put the drywall up on the ceiling portion, how are you insulating that portion? Blow in? Paper backed (I assume paper side down)?
I’m going to lay insulation as I mount each sheet of drywall. I’m also going to have an access panel.
@@PhillipsVision Thanks. Great video. Exact same scenario for me so this was very helpful.
is it safe to staple into the roofing boards? I know shingles are nailed in from outside in. I just don't know if stapling nails going from inside to outside would cause water leakage.
Roof plywood is between 1/2” to 5/8”. I’m not using staples long enough to go through the baffle and the plywood completely
I don’t understand why you would do that all the way up the roof .. are you spraying insulation on the underside of the plywood?
Never mind, you answered my question
Thank you so much for this video!!! So helpful!!!
Do you tape the over lap. Do you then put batts, and can you then put RMax ridge foam then gypsum rock. I have a cathedral ceiling, with metal roof 4:12 pitch. Judy
Thanks for posting.
I am retrofitting our attic that is a 12/12 pitch. Poor insulation with no airflow from the eve vents due to insulation and lack of air channel. I am hoping I can correct this issue with the product you are using.
I am planning at starting at the vent, like you and then proceed up the roof plane past the second story and into the attic.
Cheers
Hope you’re able to fix it
Are you saying you are connecting vents level with the ceiling of your first floor via the slopped ceiling and going all the way to your attic? It's a good idea for slopped ceilings.
So rafters are used were areas snow ???
Nicely done
Thanks
Do attic baffles block any radiant heat if you run them between your rafters, up towards the roof ridge vent? I have a bunch of extra baffles, so i was going to use them up in that manner if they blocked some of the roofs radiant heat.
The bottom section that doesn’t get stapled, how to you keep it from kicking back out?
Cut the side wings and bend it into place. Press it against the wooden beam to keep it in place
Super helpful!! One question…I have two “non-standard” sections (one 7-1/2” W and the other 10” W). I bought the exact 14” W baffles at Home Depot. Do I just cut them down? Will that impact air flow? Thanks so much!!
If you cut them down make sure they are secured on the sides and the airflow is not obstructed
@@PhillipsVision Thank you!!
Thank you!!
do you have to "shave down" the insulation where the vent changes angle to meet the sill? seems otherwise the batting would force the vent up towards the OSB and defeat the whole purpose...
No, just tuck it in to meet the end of the baffle
Great vid
Thx 👍
My sunroof does have a gap at the end of the the roof so it can vent out what should I do?
What size staples did you use
What do you do if nails are going through the plywood of the roof? Should I cut the nails, bend the nails with a hammer, or ignore them and let them pierce the baffles?
Are they that long that they are coming through the center of the baffle? Or are they along the sides?
@@PhillipsVision that long
@@TheLoganstewart where are they penetrating through the baffle?
Always leave the nails alone - don’t cut them, don’t push them back, don’t bend them. If necessary, poke a hole in the baffle to let the roofing nail pass through.
I only have about 12 soffit vents around my house. Should I install only 12 baffles for each vent before blowing insulation or do I need one baffle in between each rafter?
I would only do it where vents are, to allow breathing
You need One in every rafter.
@@chrisp.76 - the problem is that more soffits should be vented before doing as you stated - you are correct that all rafter sections need to allow for ventilation.
Do I need to go all the way up to the ridge vent?
Only if your insulation is going that high.
We need to test the air flow with the gray smoke. 🤔
How to baffle hip joints? Please 🙏🏼
But my rafters are a full 2x8" at 24"oc, so I shouldn't need baffles if I use 6" insulation........
I would still use baffle to ensure the airflow has a clear path
@@PhillipsVision Ok thanks for reply. What do you suggest for my 7' high, R-C 2x6 walls at 24"oc-ish? HD only has this for 2x6 walls>> {R-19 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Insulation Roll 23 in. x 39.2 ft.} But it says 6-1/4" thick, isn't that to thick for 2x6 walls? But I dont see anything else to use........
@@job38four10 The R-19 is recommended for your 2x6 situation, unless you can find R-21
Does installation change if your decking is 1x6's?
It shouldn’t
Do you vent every rafter?
Only ones with intake.
So do you have to pick staples that are shorter than the thickness of the roof sheathing? If the staples are too long, they'll puncture the ice and water shield beneath the shingles or the shingles themselves causing leaks. Not a word about this.
Self evident
My rule of thumb is pick staples that are half the sheathing thickness. If you have 1/2” osb, pick 1/4” staples. 3/4” plywood would get 3/8” staples.
Do you need to sprayfoam joint between the baffle rafters and the joist?
I don’t
@@PhillipsVision OK. But did you do caulking after installing vapour barrier?
@@sergeydukman5832 no, just stapled in place
What do you do about purloins between rafters?
man, i wish someone had answered this
Me to, by purloins do you mean the beam that runs horizontal across rafters, (modular home)
How to you insulate around or over roof vents that are cut into the roof already?
You need to run the baffle up to the vent, then install the insulation over the baffle. Do not apply the insulation over the vents without baffle in place to keep the air flow
@@PhillipsVision do you run the baffle right over the vent? Because the vents sit kinda low from the peak of the roof.
@@matthewwhite6763 I would run it right up to the vent...butt it up against it so the channel has a clear, uninstructed path.
Start at the top so your laps can't shed any .moisture leaking down the vents.
That is the wrong baffle for retrofit. That type is meant for new installations before the sheating goes on to the roof. Please don't use these and risk penetrating your roofing layer with staples. They make ones that fit between the studs and have flaps that come into the space and allow you to staple them to the rafters instead.
Why not use very short 1/4" staples that can't possibly pass through the sheathing?
@@Dave-co1cv The other problem you run into is that these will sit flat 1" on each side next to the rafters. Cutting off any airflow down that strip and only allowing air where the middle bows out. I made mention of that as this was a DIY suggestion and most people wouldn't think to check the standard thickness of roofing sheathing.
@@totallynottrademarked5279 LOL, you're probably right. Use 1" staples.....what could go wrong? 😂🤣😅
Oh no. Im confused after comments. Do I need all this for a garden shed? I am going to insulate it but it is a shed 10x12...
Disagree
I want NO baffles. I want full unrestricted air flow.
Baffles mean you need MORE soffit vents to do the same job.
Make sure you keep an eye on those baffles or your kids may take them and slide down the hill on them