Very clear and simple video that took the fear out of our D. I. Y. project. My wife and I (re) insulated our attic over top of what was done probably in the 70"s. Very nice difference we could feel immediately. Thank you!!
The previous homeowner didn't do all this in the building behind my home leading to it smelling like mildew and mold. I just tore all the nasty insulation out to do it the right way.
I wish I would have watched this before I did my new room addition. It was decently insulated except it lacks proper ventilation and I didn’t add radiant barriers (a must for Texas). I retroactively added radiant foam panels to the attic ceiling and had to awkwardly sneak those vent panels at the corner for ventilation. It was worth it, the room cools better now for those hot Texas summers. 😎
what if my detached garage does not have a ridge vent but only 3 round metal "exhaust" vents in the roof 3/4 way up the roof equal distant apart... do I need to install baffles at all? my garage joices I think I want to remain open so I can store stuff in the attic part of the garage... but I want to insulate all walls and the roof but my question is about the baffles?????
Oh crap....these rafter baffles are probably the reason why our roof is rotting out! Ugh! We live in a 100+ year old "kit home" and are restoring it. There are NO baffles for ventilation in our roof. Its constructed like it was supposed to be a cathedral ceiling, but the cheap asses that lived here before us, put a faux ceiling in and used the bottom side of the trusses as something to mount the faux ceiling to. We have moisture up there and with the heat, a portion of it fell on my husband last year. They LAID blown in insulation AND backed fiberglass insulation on top of 1/8 inch drywall to make matters worse. Now I know how to fix it properly. Thank you!!
L.N. We are glad the video helped and thank you for your comment. If you ever need to know a good contractor in your area or if there is any other way we can help, please reach out any time.
so you saying they wanted to charge you $10,000 for a 1,200 Sq ft home? cuz thats fucking crazy if it was $10,000 for a 12,000 home ill believe it but 1200 don't go as far of $1500 or even $1800 here in texas an that's high.
What if I am closing off a cathedral style ceiling with no attic but because it’s inside the home there are no vents? How to I protect against moisture
I'm installing faced insulation in the attic from the accessible attic side. There are ceiling joists plus ties between to hold up the old drywall, in a grid pattern. Do I cut the faced batts to fit each recess or can I lay the batts overtop of the entire grid, leaving about a 1.5 inch air gap between the ceiling drywall and the start of the faced-insulation?
Hi Ryan, unfortuately there should never be a gap between the fiberglass and the ceiling. Your air barrier and thermal barrier must always lineup and be touching each other. Thanks!
it is truly incredible that reputable info source - even this one - still say it's ok for ceilings to be insulated like shown at 4:45 - that is, the insulation is exposed to the unheated attic without any covering to keep the warmer air in the insulation from escaping and being replaced by colder air from above. the above is CONVECTIVE heat transfer and the R value of insulation is a CONDUCTIVE heat transfer number and can ONLY be achieved if the insulation is confined and not compressed. leaving the top of insulation exposed reduced the R value significantly. COVER IT UP!
Hello, Thank you for your comment and the opportunity to address how fibrous insulation is tested in regard to performance when exposed in an attic. In walls, fibrous insulation is to be covered on all six sides and the products stated R-values reflect that. R-value ratings on products used in attics also are rated based on the way they are installed. Consider the newer method of encapsulated or high performance attics where fabric is installed below the roof deck and then filled with fibrous insulation. In this example, filling the eight inch area results in an equivalency or value of R-38. In order to get that same R-38 with the insulation exposed or “uncovered” on the attic floor requires 12.75 inches. While this does not take into effect unsealed airflow or high pressure and temperature differences (say 300 degrees) the testing does account for exposure of fibrous products.
@@IDIDistributors so it's intentionally designed that you need 13 inches of insulation to get R38 (to meet code) when 8 inches will do if you simply cover it? sounds like 13 inches of attic insulation will have to be installed between 2x14 joists? this all sounds absurd - simply cover attic insulation - even something like tyvek will reduce convective heat transfer significantly - then cover it all with plywood - end of story
Roof vent baffles are a must. Or the roof sheeting rots without air flow. Spray foam companies will say you don't need vent baffles. If spray foamers say you don't need baffles then find a different spray foam company. Masonry needs to breath to dry out. Rockwool is better to use against masonry than fiberglass. Masonry loves to wick moisture. Rockwool is fire resistant too.
Do you install the rafter mates just a the bottom of each run of batts, or for the entire length, from where the top of the wall butts to the ceiling joist, right up to the peak of the ceiling? Can anyone confirm this for me? I'm looking at doing the ceiling of my garage, and want to make sure I do it correctly the first time. Any advice from someone with experience would be appreciated. Thanks...
Very clear and simple video that took the fear out of our D. I. Y. project. My wife and I (re) insulated our attic over top of what was done probably in the 70"s. Very nice difference we could feel immediately. Thank you!!
Americans: Don't forget that you can get a tax credit on your insulation. Form 5695. 10% back
oh shiiiiiiit. did not know that. thanks Mitch
I'm really glad I watched this first because I had no idea about the moisture issue that might arise.
O
The previous homeowner didn't do all this in the building behind my home leading to it smelling like mildew and mold. I just tore all the nasty insulation out to do it the right way.
Great video from the manufacturer. No wasted time on blah, blah, blah.
thanks so much for sharing this information, its great that i know this before i agreed on doing insulation..
I wish I would have watched this before I did my new room addition. It was decently insulated except it lacks proper ventilation and I didn’t add radiant barriers (a must for Texas). I retroactively added radiant foam panels to the attic ceiling and had to awkwardly sneak those vent panels at the corner for ventilation.
It was worth it, the room cools better now for those hot Texas summers. 😎
what if my detached garage does not have a ridge vent but only 3 round metal "exhaust" vents in the roof 3/4 way up the roof equal distant apart... do I need to install baffles at all? my garage joices I think I want to remain open so I can store stuff in the attic part of the garage... but I want to insulate all walls and the roof but my question is about the baffles?????
0:58 "The colour PINK is a registered trademark"
Ok...
Thanks so very much! Very helpful
Oh crap....these rafter baffles are probably the reason why our roof is rotting out! Ugh! We live in a 100+ year old "kit home" and are restoring it. There are NO baffles for ventilation in our roof. Its constructed like it was supposed to be a cathedral ceiling, but the cheap asses that lived here before us, put a faux ceiling in and used the bottom side of the trusses as something to mount the faux ceiling to. We have moisture up there and with the heat, a portion of it fell on my husband last year. They LAID blown in insulation AND backed fiberglass insulation on top of 1/8 inch drywall to make matters worse. Now I know how to fix it properly. Thank you!!
L.N. We are glad the video helped and thank you for your comment. If you ever need to know a good contractor in your area or if there is any other way we can help, please reach out any time.
@@IDIDistributors Will do! Thanks!
hell they wanted to charge me 10 thousand dollars to insulate my 12 hundred sq foot house... i better watch all these videos an do it my self.....
Abel Cerrillo wtf that’s crazy bro and insulation is so freakin cheap and easy to install
Abel Cerrillo but for energy efficiency staple the lips to your ceiling hoist and your good.
i'll charge you 4k.
It's a hard job and u better get done right..
so you saying they wanted to charge you $10,000 for a 1,200 Sq ft home? cuz thats fucking crazy if it was $10,000 for a 12,000 home ill believe it but 1200 don't go as far of $1500 or even $1800 here in texas an that's high.
What if I am closing off a cathedral style ceiling with no attic but because it’s inside the home there are no vents? How to I protect against moisture
encapsulate the cavities with closed cell spray foam; use sealant and/or gaskets at any ceiling penetrations
Batt insulation in attic above garage in Austin, TX (Zone 2)... 1) no vapor barrier 2) vapor barrier facing into attic 3) vapor barrier facing into garage/drywall?
I'm installing faced insulation in the attic from the accessible attic side. There are ceiling joists plus ties between to hold up the old drywall, in a grid pattern. Do I cut the faced batts to fit each recess or can I lay the batts overtop of the entire grid, leaving about a 1.5 inch air gap between the ceiling drywall and the start of the faced-insulation?
Hi Ryan, unfortuately there should never be a gap between the fiberglass and the ceiling. Your air barrier and thermal barrier must always lineup and be touching each other. Thanks!
it is truly incredible that reputable info source - even this one - still say it's ok for ceilings to be insulated like shown at 4:45 - that is, the insulation is exposed to the unheated attic without any covering to keep the warmer air in the insulation from escaping and being replaced by colder air from above.
the above is CONVECTIVE heat transfer and the R value of insulation is a CONDUCTIVE heat transfer number and can ONLY be achieved if the insulation is confined and not compressed. leaving the top of insulation exposed reduced the R value significantly. COVER IT UP!
Hello, Thank you for your comment and the opportunity to address how fibrous insulation is tested in regard to performance when exposed in an attic. In walls, fibrous insulation is to be covered on all six sides and the products stated R-values reflect that. R-value ratings on products used in attics also are rated based on the way they are installed. Consider the newer method of encapsulated or high performance attics where fabric is installed below the roof deck and then filled with fibrous insulation. In this example, filling the eight inch area results in an equivalency or value of R-38. In order to get that same R-38 with the insulation exposed or “uncovered” on the attic floor requires 12.75 inches. While this does not take into effect unsealed airflow or high pressure and temperature differences (say 300 degrees) the testing does account for exposure of fibrous products.
@@IDIDistributors so it's intentionally designed that you need 13 inches of insulation to get R38 (to meet code) when 8 inches will do if you simply cover it?
sounds like 13 inches of attic insulation will have to be installed between 2x14 joists?
this all sounds absurd - simply cover attic insulation - even something like tyvek will reduce convective heat transfer significantly - then cover it all with plywood - end of story
3:45. Its means .insulation contact .
Good catch!
Roof vent baffles are a must. Or the roof sheeting rots without air flow. Spray foam companies will say you don't need vent baffles. If spray foamers say you don't need baffles then find a different spray foam company. Masonry needs to breath to dry out. Rockwool is better to use against masonry than fiberglass. Masonry loves to wick moisture. Rockwool is fire resistant too.
what to use to keep my frist floors warm in the celler
:58 where are the baffle vents?
Excelente Video!! Gracias😇
Good job
What is that? I want to buy for my ceiling at my loft apt. If anyone affordable can help me, I have to do it on myself, Is so cold.
im doing some similar in tulsa tech. its already got foil on it and we had to run wires from truss to truss to lay batts on. anybody ever done this?
In which case is the polyvinil needed? Can someone give some more information? Thanks!
Do you install the rafter mates just a the bottom of each run of batts, or for the entire length, from where the top of the wall butts to the ceiling joist, right up to the peak of the ceiling? Can anyone confirm this for me? I'm looking at doing the ceiling of my garage, and want to make sure I do it correctly the first time. Any advice from someone with experience would be appreciated. Thanks...
need a rafter mate behind each piece of insulation you put in - sorry for delay answering
what kind of hammer he uses?
Hammer staplers never work that consistently lol
@@clavicus That's why he hammers so much in the video, probably only half of those staples are going in.
Gracias
What R value do I put for the ceiling torching roof
R-38
I guess I spoke to early
I just fell asleep
Why is the paper stapled to the side of the rafters that makes absolutely no sense to me
Drywallers prefer it.