Insulation is one thing that studying Internet does not resolve as I'm building The heartfelt opinions about vapor barrier air, barrier, ventilation, and materials are all over the place, very little consensus My inspector advised to just do the simplest thing that meets code
Code is the minimum requirement. To understand home performance building is relatively simple: ventilation/convection, condensation, radiation. Appropriate plans begin with knowing your local environmental conditions, home occupancy, and then what are the starting materials. At te beginning of this video, he states he used 2x10 for the insulation to fit R-30. If you're starting with 2x6 then stuffing R-30 will decrease insulation performance. You'll need to look for an insulation/sheathing system that fits your budget/code/performance desires. Retrofitting rockwool has an advantage of allowing ventilation and allowing condensation to escape. Isocyane foam is better R value and partial vapor barrier. Think of it as an insulating membrane.
I only use Rockwool. It's water, fire, bug and mouse proof. I've only ever found one mouse nest in it and the nest had been abandoned. Your point is excellent though. Rockwool is un-faced so it meets the goal.
I was going to post the same thing. Our 1890 house was built with air flowing through all the walls and zero insulation. It is hard to keep the temperature stable to keep it comfortable. We have been adding rockwool in walls when we open them over the years. Makes a huge difference not only for temperature stability but also makes it much quieter! Although the double pane Pella windows we installed made the biggest difference.
@@_Wake_Up_If_U_Can ,. I have had same issue with my parents house,. They had it built new in ‘76,. I have acquired the ole’homeplace since their passing,. Many remodel job to complete and have completed,. My biggest quandary is with the insulation,.. hardly any in the attic,. The walls it’s nonexistent,. So I started do similarly as you,. When open up a wall section I’d insulate with sections of foam for sound deadening,.. I have found that spray foam works really well also,. I just don’t get it though; How the hell did those big name contractors get away with not insulating houses bak then??? I’m sure mom n pop were charged for it,. But probably like with extra wood,. Item ordered for one job site, too much ordered just so it’s taken to another site,. I have seen this many times over the years,. Actually had a guy order 28 yards of concrete on a job we were in ;inground pool, everything was complete except for concrete deck around,. I measured and calculated 12yrds. Concrete truk driver went ahead and ordered 28yrds and charged me for them,. When 1st truck came I noticed only 3yrds were pours,. So I went followed truck down road and stopped him,. It was still almost full,. So I had em park up road, as other 4trucks came off driveway I stopped them as well except for last truck and followed him to another site,. What had happened I’m sure u already figured it out!?!? He booked two jobs to pour charged me for concrete ,. Ordered enough to pour both sites,. So basically the other job was ALL PROFIT!! He was getting concrete for free,. To say least ,. (Sorry for rambling on) I ended up getting my whole driveway poured ,. Hell why not,? I paid for it,.! I first tried to get em to take it bak to concrete plant,. They refused due to it being already mixed,. So I said he’ll I’ll pour it over dam mountain before I’ll let someone take me for a fool !! A shame can’t trust your contractors u work with!!
We are building our own cabin too. We are going to use mineral wool and double bubble alumin foil because it is acting as extra insulation plus as vapor barier, overlapped, and taped it with aluminum foil. Under the roof we are doing the same, with the higher R value insulation but we are waiting for warmer weather because we want to apply 3 in of closed cell foam first to encapsulate it ( is going to be unvented) and then place the mineral wool leaving 3/4 in of air gap and bubble foil, then dry wall painted with 2-3 coats of latex paint to act as an extra vapor barrier. Probably, the entire inside will be painted with 2 coats min of latex paint for added vapor barrier. A lot of work, regardless of what type of insulation is used
Use bubble wrap under floor boards, vapor barrier on the ground, and a good skirting. Mineral wool and only use spray foam around windows and doors. Fiberglass sucks in a building that is not always heated or ventilated. It will absorb moisture. We put down tongue and groove on our rafters, underlayment, mineral wool, roof decking screwed into rafters, more underlayment, and a metal roof. I am off grid so needed a passive ventilation system. And since we won't be there 24/7. I have a timber frame and north masonry wall. So know there will be some moisture that needs to be let out. And it won't be heated in winter.
When you install the Hardware cloth, make sure to run it the same direction as the joists. If you go perpendicular to the joists you will create a gap between the layers and animals (especially raccoons) will find it. Also, you should use PVC coated hardware cloth so you don’t have to do it again. Depending on how humid your area is, the regular hardware cloth will rust out after a few years.
Looks amazing. One question though. For the baffels, wouldn't the water trickle down to the bottom and then pool up there as the baffels are installed to not extend out to the soffits, rather right to the wood blocking where you stapled the baffel to?
Bruda u absolutely killin Engerish😂 language,. Jus tryna hlp,..It’s called a,” row’dent. Not a rod’ain’t,.. I still can’t figure out what u called the wire screen u placed as a barrier,. However you are getting there!! Good luck with future endeavors,.. also I think insulation was supposed toe paper side out so ucan staple it to studs,.✌️😎
If insulation is used below the roof sheathing, cold air must be able to flow between the insulation and the interior side of the roof sheathing (2 inch air space). You'll also need to have ventilated soffit and ventilated ridge vent. Or, you could put rigid insulation above the plywood roof sheathing and then heat and cool the attic or cathedral portion of the roof.
At my lake house in south Texas, I re-did a cathedral ceiling upstairs. I used perforated hardie plank soffits outside and instead of those preformed plastic baffles to the ridge vent, I used 1" thick Styrofoam sheets cut into strips the width of the joists and used 1x2's to space the gap between the roofing plywood and the insulation sheeting. My thought was this gives me more R value in my ceiling after adding the fiberglass insulation. That was 10 years ago and the Texas summer heat does not make the house as hot as before I did this install. Previous ceiling was plywood, fiberglass and 1/4" paneling. Ugh.
Lots of rockwool salesmen in your audience. Pink insulation is just fine, ignore the haters. Venting eliminates the mold issue, and the rest of the construction looks well thought out and executed so there should be no moisture problems.
Omg why all the extra steps just for baffels! All that was overkill. U dont even need but 1 baffel per run😂😂😂 u want the baffels to help the attic breath when the insulation is put in and you probably made it less efficient
To appease some of the keyboard comandos, you can use some Rockwool comfort board as the protection layer under the cabin. It will add more insulation value, a fire barrier, animals won’t nest in it and also stop the thermal bridging at the floor joists which is what you were panning on achieving with your foam panels and plywood. Good job.
Heads up...I was renovating my home. I wasn't intending to touch the insulation. When I opened the walls all the fiberglass insulation, in the outside walls, was resting on the bottom 3 feet of the wall cavities. Fiberglass sucks. I had to replace all the outside wall insulation. I put rock wool back in it. This stopped my renovation for 2 years. I don't know if the fiberglass was installed wrong. The paper around the fiberglass was still stapled in the wall cavities..........If the fiberglass had gotten wet, I found no rot in the walls......
Wow, there is so much wrong here. First of all you are confusing cold roofs, hot roofs and cathedral ceilings. Second, the mold problem isn't a paper facing issue, it's what happens when you have a moisture issue. Ok, so a cold roof has insulation over the interior ceiling with a ventillated "attic" area. Hot roof has no ventillation and insulation that acts as a moisture barrier (foam board or spray foam). There is no in-between a cold roof and a hot roof, only a broken roof so you have to pick one and only one. A cathedral ceiling is just a ceiling that either follows the roof line or appears to. It has no bearing on the type of insulation you use above it. Ok, insulation baffles are used for cold roofs with blown in insulation to prevent the insulation from blocking the soffit vent. They are not meant to be used as a moisture barrier and they shouldn't be used as a moisture barrier. If you managed to seal those insulation baffles, you managed to vent your roof sheathing, not your attic area so instead of a cold roof you have a broken roof and moisture will be trapped between your tongue&groove ceiling and your insulation baffles which means inside of your fiberglass insulation. I know a guy who did this except for the insulation baffles and vents. The result was wet ceilings becuse there was no drying potential in his roof insulation. "But I have vents" is probably your argument but you don't, you sealed them so your fiberglass insulation can not dry to the air in the "vents". The solution to his wet ceiling was to vent his roof and put new Sheetrock up. He could have ripped out the fiberglass and used spray foam to eliminate every place where condensation might occour but he went with venting. Hot roofs do work, another friend of mine has a tongue&groove knotty pine ceiling with 4" of rigid foam board over that with an OSB roof sheathing bonded to the foam board. That is covered by a synthetic underlayment with steel shingles over that. It works as planned, with no moisture issues. Regarding other comments telling you to use Rockwool or spray foam, it's not which material you use, it's how you use it. If you don't believe me, look up the Building Science Institute and look at their perfect wall and perfect roof assemblies. Regarding the comments about how buildings need to breathe, the only thing that can save your roof is if you did a really shitty job of sealing those insulation baffles so that your roof can "breathe". Ventillation is important for interior drying but filtered air from a heat exchanger ventilation unit is more efficient than a leaky building and it increases interior air quality and comfort. A leaky building might be less susceptible to rot than a "tight" building with no ventilation. But again, the real winner is a tight house with a good ventillation unit.
Should I never ever have to insulate or vapor barrier a crawl space, it will be far too soon. I wish I would have made less money and done physically easier work in my early years.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy from what I have read,. If u layer it up ,. Each new layer maker R value more each time,. Hell that’s gonna run into more money that way though,. I despise fiberglass insulation,. Im allergic to it,. So anytime I can stir clear of it I will,. If cost efficient,.
Where is your ridge vent in your roof for all the air that will travel up the air gap you left in the rafters? I would think that you would have put boards maybe a couple feet down from the peak that crossed from one rafter to the other that would leave an air gap at the peak of the roof with a ridge vent running the length of the length of the house on the roof. Maybe I missed something but it looks like you gave all that air no where to go.
Hey Tristan,you made that look easy lol ,in our cottage we are building here in Ontario we used the rockwool on the walls and spray foamed the ceiling ,cost me 11000.00 just for the ceiling, it took me awhile to get the hang of installing the rockwall ,we are using 6 mm plastic vapor barrier, curious as the the vapour barrier you have going on in your next video,never thought about planning the blocking tho so hope I dont have a problem when we start the drywall come spring , keep the videos coming,thank you,, Doug
Im curious how much I would have been charged to get someone to spray foam the ceiling. The air barrier / vapor barrier I used is called intello plus, I’ll cover that in the next episode.
Other than cost why not use foam for the floor and walls then that insulation for the ceiling or would that have still been too much moisture if not adding a exhaust fan
@@donaldstrickland8093 that’s a great point! I actually didn’t even try to get a quote. You’re absolutely right, I could have saved myself a lot of time BUT I’m just stupidly stubborn and want to do everything myself 🤣
How do the external walls deal with water? Looks like there are horizontal gaps of 1 or 2 inches every 8 to 12 inches? When it rains or snow or ice melts where does the water go?
The paper backing on the insulation goes to the outside, it is to keep dirt and debris out of the batting and makes it possible to staple the batting in place. Making the baffles in the ceiling air tight, totally defeats the purpose of the baffles. Their very purpose is to allow moist air inside the cabin to vent outside. Once you make them air tight, the most air cannot vent out of the cabin. The bottom of the baffles will be much cooler than the warm moist air making its way through the insulation, so now it's going to condensate between the baffle and the insulation.
Per code, in warm/humid climates the vapor barrier/paper facing goes to the outside, in cold climates the vapor barrier/paper faces the inside. Also, to cut fiberglass it is easier to use a board or straight edge to compress the batt and use a sharp knife/razor knife to cut it.
I like your attention to detail. Tape the seam in the vent pipe with foil tape to keep it from springing open. The seam joint is called a Pittsburgh join and often they aren't fully formed. If you close the female side a little bit it fits tighter. Always tape the seams.
Faced insulation should be put on with the paper side toward the living space like it says on the batt. I dont know about ceiling. But in the closed in garage we put the paper side up in the attic which is wtong but there was no moisture mold to be had take this advice in this video with a grain of salt. I will use unfaced and put my own vapor over the insulation, then put the boards on. I like the foil type of vapor barior. 73
where the insulation is against your roof you just install foam baffles too allow air flow from soffit to the ridgeline...it will not sweat or mold . Faced insulation has been used for decades .
@@Me-dx5zb dad never insulated the roof line just the ceiling . He used 3 and a half faced insulation with the paper toward the living space our house was never cold. They back in the fifties did not use 6 or more inches. Only in the garage part was cold. The celler part was warm enough and where the furnace was it was real warm. We had an electronic work bench there with an old telephone operator stool with arms. The garage was cold but who cares you don't live in that part. Only store junk. And lawnmowers. I practiced piano downstairs in the celler because I liked that old upright better than the one upstairs the action was more forceful on that old early teen piano. Back to insulation. If you insulate the roof the snow won't melt it could be three feet of snow up there I would rather have a bare roof in the winter. The farm house had no heat in the attic and we had icicles from the roof to the ground over ten feet long. Had the attic had heat which we put later the roof was bare just like home. Fuel was not a problem we had a natural gas well on the farm. Well my parents sold the farm then the cottage at a lake and then our home and we moved to Florida and froze in the winter because the lack of insulation and the cold concrete slab we had to walk on. Carpet is no insulation. 73
@@Me-dx5zb faced insulation is old school and I told why it was not used on the roof line. Snow has to melt if it gets too deep. Some people put heating elements on their pitched roof that wastes electric. There are better materials. If I had a metal roof I would have insulation board (foam) under the metal to cut down rain storm noise. 73
THIS is correct. Any attempt at adequate insulation with a proper vapour barrier will only work as well if the air above can be ventilated. Without ventilation, warm air will only collect and thus create moisture. The floor insulation should also include a vapour barrier over the joists, before sheeting. Alternatively, best practice would be closed-cell spray foam which will create a vapour barrier in itself and not be penetrated 5000 times with fasteners as poly vapour barrier would end up.
I've watched many videos on insulating the floor and many RUclipsrs end up doing what you do: insulating from underneath. Why not put the wire mesh down when the floor joists are being installed and then fill the spaces between the joists before putting on the subfloor material? In other words, why does everyone work from underneath when they could drop the insulation down? Also, is there some kind of breathable material that can be put behind the screen to prevent the incursion of insects into the insulation?
It’s a simple answer, If I did what you described, the insulation would have gotten wet and would have been completely trashed. You can’t really insulate until you’re dried in, meaning you have a roof on to keep the place dry.
@TheDIYCabinGuy yep, exactly. Thats why its nice to have a decent size crawl space. I used to build smaller crawlspaces but it just makes it really hard to get underneath later so i started making them a lot taller
Nice. Once you get to the smell of fresh cut pine on the finishing is the most rewarding. The tedious behind the scenes where the rubber meets the road.
Doesn't matter if you use faced or unfaced as long as the facing is pointed the correct way. The problem comes when you don't have correct ventilation.
I'm pretty sure a dwelling of any kind that people live in can be sealed up too much. It needs to breathe naturally. Buildings that do not have correct air exchange need system installed that does it properly. It can be rodent and bug proofed without over killing ventilation.
You may have saved yourself a little misery installing Rock Wool insulation between the joists and eliminated the hardware cloth and stapling. Rock Wool is easier to install (no staples) and use tension wire rods between the joists to hold it in place. Though it is a bit more expensive than fiberglass the elimination of the hardware cloth and installation should balance out in my opinion. It’s also hated by insects (even termites) and rodents, including raccoons. My 2 cents…
The paper is a vapor barrier, that is why it has tar on the back of it. If you use unfaced you should use plasic on the walls to keep moisture out of the wall.
I'm starting to do my cabin ceiling also. I used Durovent (the egg carton style). If I'm using the vent, and fiberglass insulation and a vapor barrier and tongue and groove, what problem does the faced paper do at that point?
Im installing intello plus, it’s an air barrier and vapor barrier. According to the manufacturer, you’re not supposed to put faced insulation below that.
@@navydave1 I guess because the intello plus is a smart vapor barrier, having Kraft paper below could mess with its properties and having it work properly.
I want exactly sure, I was always told the paper should face the conditioned space but honestly for a crawlspace, I wonder if you should just use unfaced insulation.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy only in the floor u face it towards the ground because obviously the ground is a source of moisture, lay 8 mil plastic as a moisture barrier and you did yourself a favor
Made that mistake and had black mold on my sheeting. Also didn't have a very good roof vent at the time so double-whammy. Not to mention the mice loved it. Fixed the roof and insulated with rigid foam.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Found that issue while fixing another bigger one with the roof. Mistakes you make when you build a cabin at 27 with minimal carpentry experience 🤷
Umm... Yeah, sooo... Don't do what this guy does, especially the baffels.. There is no need to put baffels all the way. This guy acts like he is some kind of authority on building but he only knows what Google and RUclips showed him
domading2759 Actually, on a rafter type roof, i.e. not trusses. You do need the baffles to go all the way from bottom to top however, you need an opening at both ends to outside fresh air to allow cool air underneath roof deck to prevent ice dams
The correct way is to either use closed cell spray foam or to use faced insulation w batts for airflow to reach the peak. Im a builder. Never had mold in cathederal ceilings.
@TheDIYCabinGuy oh i always have an air barrier on the roof sheathing. Even for pole barns we sheet them instead of using pearlings and always use the vapor barrier on top of the sheathing.
I'm a builder. Lmfa. Different states have different climates. Different country's have climates. States that don't have frost don't have the same issues as ones that do
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Insulation is one thing that studying Internet does not resolve as I'm building
The heartfelt opinions about vapor barrier air, barrier, ventilation, and materials are all over the place, very little consensus
My inspector advised to just do the simplest thing that meets code
Code is the minimum requirement. To understand home performance building is relatively simple: ventilation/convection, condensation, radiation. Appropriate plans begin with knowing your local environmental conditions, home occupancy, and then what are the starting materials. At te beginning of this video, he states he used 2x10 for the insulation to fit R-30. If you're starting with 2x6 then stuffing R-30 will decrease insulation performance. You'll need to look for an insulation/sheathing system that fits your budget/code/performance desires. Retrofitting rockwool has an advantage of allowing ventilation and allowing condensation to escape. Isocyane foam is better R value and partial vapor barrier. Think of it as an insulating membrane.
@@furthereast6775 use it the way the manufacturer says to.
I only use Rockwool. It's water, fire, bug and mouse proof. I've only ever found one mouse nest in it and the nest had been abandoned. Your point is excellent though. Rockwool is un-faced so it meets the goal.
Thanks for sharing!
I was going to post the same thing. Our 1890 house was built with air flowing through all the walls and zero insulation. It is hard to keep the temperature stable to keep it comfortable. We have been adding rockwool in walls when we open them over the years. Makes a huge difference not only for temperature stability but also makes it much quieter! Although the double pane Pella windows we installed made the biggest difference.
@@_Wake_Up_If_U_Can ,. I have had same issue with my parents house,. They had it built new in ‘76,. I have acquired the ole’homeplace since their passing,. Many remodel job to complete and have completed,. My biggest quandary is with the insulation,.. hardly any in the attic,. The walls it’s nonexistent,. So I started do similarly as you,. When open up a wall section I’d insulate with sections of foam for sound deadening,.. I have found that spray foam works really well also,.
I just don’t get it though;
How the hell did those big name contractors get away with not insulating houses bak then??? I’m sure mom n pop were charged for it,.
But probably like with extra wood,. Item ordered for one job site, too much ordered just so it’s taken to another site,. I have seen this many times over the years,. Actually had a guy order 28 yards of concrete on a job we were in ;inground pool, everything was complete except for concrete deck around,. I measured and calculated 12yrds. Concrete truk driver went ahead and ordered 28yrds and charged me for them,. When 1st truck came I noticed only 3yrds were pours,. So I went followed truck down road and stopped him,. It was still almost full,. So I had em park up road, as other 4trucks came off driveway I stopped them as well except for last truck and followed him to another site,. What had happened I’m sure u already figured it out!?!? He booked two jobs to pour charged me for concrete ,. Ordered enough to pour both sites,. So basically the other job was ALL PROFIT!! He was getting concrete for free,. To say least ,. (Sorry for rambling on) I ended up getting my whole driveway poured ,. Hell why not,? I paid for it,.! I first tried to get em to take it bak to concrete plant,. They refused due to it being already mixed,. So I said he’ll I’ll pour it over dam mountain before I’ll let someone take me for a fool !! A shame can’t trust your contractors u work with!!
We are building our own cabin too.
We are going to use mineral wool and double bubble alumin foil because it is acting as extra insulation plus as vapor barier, overlapped, and taped it with aluminum foil.
Under the roof we are doing the same, with the higher R value insulation but we are waiting for warmer weather because we want to apply 3 in of closed cell foam first to encapsulate it ( is going to be unvented) and then place the mineral wool leaving 3/4 in of air gap and bubble foil, then dry wall painted with 2-3 coats of latex paint to act as an extra vapor barrier.
Probably, the entire inside will be painted with 2 coats min of latex paint for added vapor barrier.
A lot of work, regardless of what type of insulation is used
Sounds like a good plan !
Use bubble wrap under floor boards, vapor barrier on the ground, and a good skirting. Mineral wool and only use spray foam around windows and doors. Fiberglass sucks in a building that is not always heated or ventilated. It will absorb moisture. We put down tongue and groove on our rafters, underlayment, mineral wool, roof decking screwed into rafters, more underlayment, and a metal roof. I am off grid so needed a passive ventilation system. And since we won't be there 24/7. I have a timber frame and north masonry wall. So know there will be some moisture that needs to be let out. And it won't be heated in winter.
When you install the Hardware cloth, make sure to run it the same direction as the joists. If you go perpendicular to the joists you will create a gap between the layers and animals (especially raccoons) will find it. Also, you should use PVC coated hardware cloth so you don’t have to do it again. Depending on how humid your area is, the regular hardware cloth will rust out after a few years.
Great points !
Looks amazing. One question though. For the baffels, wouldn't the water trickle down to the bottom and then pool up there as the baffels are installed to not extend out to the soffits, rather right to the wood blocking where you stapled the baffel to?
That’s a good question, hopefully the flow of air dries any condensation and doesn’t let any significant amount of moisture to build up
you have it installed backwards!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
😱😱😱
Yup, but I will never use that product again, dense styrofoam is the way to go.
Looks really itchy
@@MesaBoogieman82 😂😂😂
😭😭😭
Bruda u absolutely killin Engerish😂 language,. Jus tryna hlp,..It’s called a,” row’dent. Not a rod’ain’t,.. I still can’t figure out what u called the wire screen u placed as a barrier,. However you are getting there!! Good luck with future endeavors,.. also I think insulation was supposed toe paper side out so ucan staple it to studs,.✌️😎
😭😭😭
If insulation is used below the roof sheathing, cold air must be able to flow between the insulation and the interior side of the roof sheathing (2 inch air space). You'll also need to have ventilated soffit and ventilated ridge vent.
Or, you could put rigid insulation above the plywood roof sheathing and then heat and cool the attic or cathedral portion of the roof.
Yes I do have a ventilated roof assembly with baffles that provide a continuous space between my ventilated soffit and the ridge vent on the roof.
Well I don’t think times have changed that much, a house has to breathe. Just take care of
At my lake house in south Texas, I re-did a cathedral ceiling upstairs. I used perforated hardie plank soffits outside and instead of those preformed plastic baffles to the ridge vent, I used 1" thick Styrofoam sheets cut into strips the width of the joists and used 1x2's to space the gap between the roofing plywood and the insulation sheeting. My thought was this gives me more R value in my ceiling after adding the fiberglass insulation. That was 10 years ago and the Texas summer heat does not make the house as hot as before I did this install. Previous ceiling was plywood, fiberglass and 1/4" paneling. Ugh.
Lots of rockwool salesmen in your audience. Pink insulation is just fine, ignore the haters. Venting eliminates the mold issue, and the rest of the construction looks well thought out and executed so there should be no moisture problems.
Thanks !
Nice insulation, thats what mouses prefer. 🤣🤣
😂😂 glad to help a few mice families with their housing needs
You have done a fabulous job making your cabin air tight and rodent proof. Great job! 👏 Lots of hard work. Love your videos. 🙋🏻♀️🇨🇦
Thanks so much!
Wow your ceiling video looks like a floor video.
The looking around in the forest while holding the fiberglass insulation had me LOL!
Lol you know those dang rodents are just waiting for it
Omg why all the extra steps just for baffels! All that was overkill. U dont even need but 1 baffel per run😂😂😂 u want the baffels to help the attic breath when the insulation is put in and you probably made it less efficient
It’s a closed cathedral ceiling, not an attic. For that reason, you absolutely need a continuous air path from the soffit to the ridge vent.
To appease some of the keyboard comandos, you can use some Rockwool comfort board as the protection layer under the cabin. It will add more insulation value, a fire barrier, animals won’t nest in it and also stop the thermal bridging at the floor joists which is what you were panning on achieving with your foam panels and plywood. Good job.
Thanks !
Mice and squirrels are perfectly happy to nest in your rock wool, little bastards just don't care what they're not supposed to like.
Yup, the a holes made nests in rock wool like it’s nobody’s business. Even my cats like rock wool .
@@whitehorse1961 hopefully me having the hardware cloth plus some rigid foam insulation plus 3/4 in pressure treated plywood will slow them down some.
get a dog or cat haha, thatll slow them all the way down to dead@@TheDIYCabinGuy
How to know if i need put the paper face against the wood surface or away from
It?
If you used faced insulation then the paper goes towards the inside of the house.
Are baffles needed if you have no ridge vent at the peak of the roof?
If you have no ridge vent then it would be useless to have baffles id think
Looking good!
Thanks!
Heads up...I was renovating my home. I wasn't intending to touch the insulation. When I opened the walls all the fiberglass insulation, in the outside walls, was resting on the bottom 3 feet of the wall cavities. Fiberglass sucks. I had to replace all the outside wall insulation. I put rock wool back in it. This stopped my renovation for 2 years. I don't know if the fiberglass was installed wrong. The paper around the fiberglass was still stapled in the wall cavities..........If the fiberglass had gotten wet, I found no rot in the walls......
Dang not a fun discovery !
Sometimes you have no choice.. figure it out
Wow, there is so much wrong here.
First of all you are confusing cold roofs, hot roofs and cathedral ceilings.
Second, the mold problem isn't a paper facing issue, it's what happens when you have a moisture issue.
Ok, so a cold roof has insulation over the interior ceiling with a ventillated "attic" area.
Hot roof has no ventillation and insulation that acts as a moisture barrier (foam board or spray foam).
There is no in-between a cold roof and a hot roof, only a broken roof so you have to pick one and only one.
A cathedral ceiling is just a ceiling that either follows the roof line or appears to. It has no bearing on the type of insulation you use above it.
Ok, insulation baffles are used for cold roofs with blown in insulation to prevent the insulation from blocking the soffit vent. They are not meant to be used as a moisture barrier and they shouldn't be used as a moisture barrier.
If you managed to seal those insulation baffles, you managed to vent your roof sheathing, not your attic area so instead of a cold roof you have a broken roof and moisture will be trapped between your tongue&groove ceiling and your insulation baffles which means inside of your fiberglass insulation.
I know a guy who did this except for the insulation baffles and vents. The result was wet ceilings becuse there was no drying potential in his roof insulation.
"But I have vents" is probably your argument but you don't, you sealed them so your fiberglass insulation can not dry to the air in the "vents".
The solution to his wet ceiling was to vent his roof and put new Sheetrock up.
He could have ripped out the fiberglass and used spray foam to eliminate every place where condensation might occour but he went with venting.
Hot roofs do work, another friend of mine has a tongue&groove knotty pine ceiling with 4" of rigid foam board over that with an OSB roof sheathing bonded to the foam board. That is covered by a synthetic underlayment with steel shingles over that. It works as planned, with no moisture issues.
Regarding other comments telling you to use Rockwool or spray foam, it's not which material you use, it's how you use it.
If you don't believe me, look up the Building Science Institute and look at their perfect wall and perfect roof assemblies.
Regarding the comments about how buildings need to breathe, the only thing that can save your roof is if you did a really shitty job of sealing those insulation baffles so that your roof can "breathe".
Ventillation is important for interior drying but filtered air from a heat exchanger ventilation unit is more efficient than a leaky building and it increases interior air quality and comfort. A leaky building might be less susceptible to rot than a "tight" building with no ventilation. But again, the real winner is a tight house with a good ventillation unit.
Twenty years later , they tear the whole house down.
Never use fiberglass insulation, OSB, non stainless staples. The floor insulation could become a rat hotel.
Time will tell
Should I never ever have to insulate or vapor barrier a crawl space, it will be far too soon. I wish I would have made less money and done physically easier work in my early years.
Spray foam it and forget the pink stuff. You won't need any of this extra steps for venting
Have you ever diy spray foam insulation? I didn’t feel like paying someone for doing it.
What about the foil type insulation for the ceiling instead of fiberglass type???
Could have worked as long as I could have gotten an R38 out of it which I’m unsure if that’s possible
@@TheDIYCabinGuy from what I have read,. If u layer it up ,. Each new layer maker R value more each time,. Hell that’s gonna run into more money that way though,.
I despise fiberglass insulation,. Im allergic to it,. So anytime I can stir clear of it I will,. If cost efficient,.
Where is your ridge vent in your roof for all the air that will travel up the air gap you left in the rafters? I would think that you would have put boards maybe a couple feet down from the peak that crossed from one rafter to the other that would leave an air gap at the peak of the roof with a ridge vent running the length of the length of the house on the roof. Maybe I missed something but it looks like you gave all that air no where to go.
I do have a continuous ridge vent
Use an angle grinder and cutoff wheel wayyyy faster cutting hardware cloth
Great point!
Rockswool insulation is much much better.
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Wouldn't Rock wool be better for the underside?
Not sure, some other people commented having issues with rodents even with rock wool
@@TheDIYCabinGuy I was thinking it was more for the fire, sound, and water retardant that rock wool offers. I'm not sure about the rodents.
The only problem is your sealing it up so tight the cabin can't breath and will rot out from the inside
I have a heat recovery ventilation system to constantly bring fresh air in.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy then you probably have the best insulated cabin I have ever seen great job
Hey Tristan,you made that look easy lol ,in our cottage we are building here in Ontario we used the rockwool on the walls and spray foamed the ceiling ,cost me 11000.00 just for the ceiling, it took me awhile to get the hang of installing the rockwall ,we are using 6 mm plastic vapor barrier, curious as the the vapour barrier you have going on in your next video,never thought about planning the blocking tho so hope I dont have a problem when we start the drywall come spring , keep the videos coming,thank you,, Doug
Im curious how much I would have been charged to get someone to spray foam the ceiling. The air barrier / vapor barrier I used is called intello plus, I’ll cover that in the next episode.
Other than cost why not use foam for the floor and walls then that insulation for the ceiling or would that have still been too much moisture if not adding a exhaust fan
Just didn’t feel like paying someone to spray foam
@@TheDIYCabinGuy ok but what would have been the difference in it's cost just out of curiosity if you checked
@@donaldstrickland8093 that’s a great point! I actually didn’t even try to get a quote. You’re absolutely right, I could have saved myself a lot of time BUT I’m just stupidly stubborn and want to do everything myself 🤣
Cath-eh-drill 😂
Staple the end of the roll to a 1x2 cut to the width of the hardware cloth. This will give yo a lot more control as you get started.
Thanks
How do the external walls deal with water? Looks like there are horizontal gaps of 1 or 2 inches every 8 to 12 inches? When it rains or snow or ice melts where does the water go?
It’s just part of the siding, water would get on it, and then dry.
The paper backing on the insulation goes to the outside, it is to keep dirt and debris out of the batting and makes it possible to staple the batting in place. Making the baffles in the ceiling air tight, totally defeats the purpose of the baffles. Their very purpose is to allow moist air inside the cabin to vent outside. Once you make them air tight, the most air cannot vent out of the cabin. The bottom of the baffles will be much cooler than the warm moist air making its way through the insulation, so now it's going to condensate between the baffle and the insulation.
Per code, in warm/humid climates the vapor barrier/paper facing goes to the outside, in cold climates the vapor barrier/paper faces the inside. Also, to cut fiberglass it is easier to use a board or straight edge to compress the batt and use a sharp knife/razor knife to cut it.
@@jimr9898 Please provide the code.
Inside ranger smartin up
The baffles are used in attics to allow air from the soffits to reach the exit vents higher up the roof. This keeps the attic from getting to hot.
The paper on the insulation is a vapor barrier, it should be on the inside or the unfaced should be covered with a 4 mil plastic as a vapor barrier.
I like your attention to detail. Tape the seam in the vent pipe with foil tape to keep it from springing open. The seam joint is called a Pittsburgh join and often they aren't fully formed. If you close the female side a little bit it fits tighter. Always tape the seams.
Great tip!
Faced insulation should be put on with the paper side toward the living space like it says on the batt. I dont know about ceiling. But in the closed in garage we put the paper side up in the attic which is wtong but there was no moisture mold to be had take this advice in this video with a grain of salt. I will use unfaced and put my own vapor over the insulation, then put the boards on. I like the foil type of vapor barior. 73
where the insulation is against your roof you just install foam baffles too allow air flow from soffit to the ridgeline...it will not sweat or mold . Faced insulation has been used for decades .
@@Me-dx5zb dad never insulated the roof line just the ceiling . He used 3 and a half faced insulation with the paper toward the living space our house was never cold. They back in the fifties did not use 6 or more inches. Only in the garage part was cold. The celler part was warm enough and where the furnace was it was real warm. We had an electronic work bench there with an old telephone operator stool with arms. The garage was cold but who cares you don't live in that part. Only store junk. And lawnmowers. I practiced piano downstairs in the celler because I liked that old upright better than the one upstairs the action was more forceful on that old early teen piano. Back to insulation. If you insulate the roof the snow won't melt it could be three feet of snow up there I would rather have a bare roof in the winter. The farm house had no heat in the attic and we had icicles from the roof to the ground over ten feet long. Had the attic had heat which we put later the roof was bare just like home. Fuel was not a problem we had a natural gas well on the farm. Well my parents sold the farm then the cottage at a lake and then our home and we moved to Florida and froze in the winter because the lack of insulation and the cold concrete slab we had to walk on. Carpet is no insulation. 73
@@Me-dx5zb faced insulation is old school and I told why it was not used on the roof line. Snow has to melt if it gets too deep. Some people put heating elements on their pitched roof that wastes electric. There are better materials. If I had a metal roof I would have insulation board (foam) under the metal to cut down rain storm noise. 73
Fiberglass insulation is a terrible product. You should’ve use rock wool!
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Wear volleyball knee pads under your pants! Much more comfortable.
Not a bad idea
You seal everything then your hpuse will not breath and it will rutt. House will last forever if it breaths.
I’ll have a heat recovery ventilation system which will bring fresh air in
if you have an angle grinder it can be used to quickly and easily cut hardware cloth.
That makes sense!
propper vent in all the ceiling bays is a must or you'll have no airflow
THIS is correct. Any attempt at adequate insulation with a proper vapour barrier will only work as well if the air above can be ventilated. Without ventilation, warm air will only collect and thus create moisture.
The floor insulation should also include a vapour barrier over the joists, before sheeting. Alternatively, best practice would be closed-cell spray foam which will create a vapour barrier in itself and not be penetrated 5000 times with fasteners as poly vapour barrier would end up.
I've watched many videos on insulating the floor and many RUclipsrs end up doing what you do: insulating from underneath. Why not put the wire mesh down when the floor joists are being installed and then fill the spaces between the joists before putting on the subfloor material? In other words, why does everyone work from underneath when they could drop the insulation down? Also, is there some kind of breathable material that can be put behind the screen to prevent the incursion of insects into the insulation?
It’s a simple answer, If I did what you described, the insulation would have gotten wet and would have been completely trashed. You can’t really insulate until you’re dried in, meaning you have a roof on to keep the place dry.
@TheDIYCabinGuy yep, exactly. Thats why its nice to have a decent size crawl space.
I used to build smaller crawlspaces but it just makes it really hard to get underneath later so i started making them a lot taller
Nice. Once you get to the smell of fresh cut pine on the finishing is the most rewarding. The tedious behind the scenes where the rubber meets the road.
Thanks !
He is right. Who would ever use cheap pink insulation?
Me 😂
Good info. cathedral = "ca-THEE-dral"
🤣🤣🤣
The insulation is put in backwards
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Don't do this is wrong
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Doesn't matter if you use faced or unfaced as long as the facing is pointed the correct way. The problem comes when you don't have correct ventilation.
Makes sense!
Great information but you are pronouncing Cathedral wrong. It's not Cath-dral.
It is pronounced
"kuh-thee-druhl"
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Mice chew right through spray foam. Yes, they do.
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An R-Value is calculated in a vacuum. The R-value is ZERO on the underside of the Cabin floor.
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Good job putting in backwards
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That cabin going to be nice as fuuuuak!!!
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Paper goes towards the living space 😂
Indeed , but I used unfaced
All you had to do was install a baffle in between roof joist.
what a great idea to use that mesh man!
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure a dwelling of any kind that people live in can be sealed up too much. It needs to breathe naturally. Buildings that do not have correct air exchange need system installed that does it properly. It can be rodent and bug proofed without over killing ventilation.
I’ll have a heat recovery ventilation system in place to bring in fresh air.
My cathedral ceiling garage had r-13 faced insulation. The sheetrock starting falling off the ceiling with black mold everywhere. nightmare.
☹️ sounds awful
You made your cabin so airtight; you will feel the pressure when closing your door.
I won’t because I’ll have a heat recovery ventilation system 😁
Why didn't you insulate around the breaker box? It's safe to do so. You just can't have any inside the box.
I think I did in the follow up video
Chicken wire is cheaper.
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Should have used rock wool, only way to go .
Where are the air baffles? If you read the installation instructions it tells you paper beside faces condition space.
I installed the intello plus air barrier instead of faced insulation
You are putting it in backwards
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Catha drill ceiling ? Huh ?
You supposed to put the paper towards the air
Or cut the mesh with an angle grinder I k own it sounds like pushing in a thumb tack with a sledge hammer but just try it
Next time I will
You may have saved yourself a little misery installing Rock Wool insulation between the joists and eliminated the hardware cloth and stapling. Rock Wool is easier to install (no staples) and use tension wire rods between the joists to hold it in place. Though it is a bit more expensive than fiberglass the elimination of the hardware cloth and installation should balance out in my opinion. It’s also hated by insects (even termites) and rodents, including raccoons. My 2 cents…
Thanks
We used Rockwool, the mice are living in it
@@ImTakinMeFishin You may be the exception and not the rule…
It's just paper. It's not a vapor barrier. It's just to keep it in place. Moisture can pass right through it.
The paper is a vapor barrier, that is why it has tar on the back of it. If you use unfaced you should use plasic on the walls to keep moisture out of the wall.
You did a great job👍
Thank you! 😊
whats with the waterproof thing around the electrical boxes and the sealant?
So that no air leaks though electrical boxes
Its not heavy work but it is work. Great job
Surely still took a decent amount of time !
Insulation, etc, should have started before sheeting the deck. It's way easier to install from the top.
And then is just gets destroyed by rain which will get past the floor sheathing?
@TheDIYCabinGuy tarps, caulk, and zip tape joints. I also used stone based insulation . You're lucky you built high enough to get under.
@@stevenmcinnis8105 yes I had thought about it to leave enough clearance to get under.
GREAT JOB MAN! I LIKE YOUR ATTENTION TO DETAILS! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks! 👍
I'm starting to do my cabin ceiling also. I used Durovent (the egg carton style). If I'm using the vent, and fiberglass insulation and a vapor barrier and tongue and groove, what problem does the faced paper do at that point?
Im installing intello plus, it’s an air barrier and vapor barrier. According to the manufacturer, you’re not supposed to put faced insulation below that.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Cool. I'll have to look into that.
@@navydave1 I guess because the intello plus is a smart vapor barrier, having Kraft paper below could mess with its properties and having it work properly.
ADHD~?
🤣🤣🤣
Wood stove?
Heat pump mini split. Wood stove would have been nice but since this cabin will be rented as an Airbnb, I don’t trust tenants making fires.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy smart man😅 good luck! The cabin looks fantastic and very well built
@@diegoruiz7600 thanks 😀
That r30 should probably be face out in the subfloor, the moisture would be hitting the insulation and not the barrier.
I want exactly sure, I was always told the paper should face the conditioned space but honestly for a crawlspace, I wonder if you should just use unfaced insulation.
@@TheDIYCabinGuy only in the floor u face it towards the ground because obviously the ground is a source of moisture, lay 8 mil plastic as a moisture barrier and you did yourself a favor
Code everywhere I have ever lived says kraft face goes towards conditioned space. I have been doing it like that for 25 years now.
Made that mistake and had black mold on my sheeting. Also didn't have a very good roof vent at the time so double-whammy. Not to mention the mice loved it. Fixed the roof and insulated with rigid foam.
Doesn’t sounds like fun! Glad you fixed it
@@TheDIYCabinGuy Found that issue while fixing another bigger one with the roof. Mistakes you make when you build a cabin at 27 with minimal carpentry experience 🤷
@@adelhey100 oh well, we are all just learning here
1,000,000 just in spray foam and sealants lol
Foam board makes an excellent air/ vapo/ insulation barrier....
Yes, I also thought about using that
Yes foam is better and fiberglass is a carcinogen. Enough said. 73
I learned alot... thank-you... ou merci si vous etes Acadien...
Merci! Et je suis français
If you are too air tight it is not healthy for you! FYI
That’s why I’m also installing a heat recovery ventilation, will have fresh air renewed constantly.
Would like to see you do a "mini cabin" sauna build.
Sure would be nice !
you need ftesh air in there
I’m installing a HRV system in there
Where can I get those baffles?
I got these at lowes, they should be readily available in either lowes or Home Depot.
At least where I am you have to have some venting over the soffit, you cannot seal it airtight
So the 4” duct has to be crimped to join it to the exterior vent. Look for a 5-blade crimper. You can use it for duct work and downspouts.
Thanks!
great vid!
Thanks !
Umm... Yeah, sooo... Don't do what this guy does, especially the baffels.. There is no need to put baffels all the way. This guy acts like he is some kind of authority on building but he only knows what Google and RUclips showed him
😂
domading2759
Actually, on a rafter type roof, i.e. not trusses. You do need the baffles to go all the way from bottom to top however, you need an opening at both ends to outside fresh air to allow cool air underneath roof deck to prevent ice dams
The correct way is to either use closed cell spray foam or to use faced insulation w batts for airflow to reach the peak. Im a builder. Never had mold in cathederal ceilings.
What about if using T&G on the ceiling and not sheet rock? Would you still do that with faced insulation only and no air barrier?
@TheDIYCabinGuy oh i always have an air barrier on the roof sheathing. Even for pole barns we sheet them instead of using pearlings and always use the vapor barrier on top of the sheathing.
I'm a builder. Lmfa. Different states have different climates. Different country's have climates. States that don't have frost don't have the same issues as ones that do
Great episode🎉
Thanks a lot !
Great job 👍.
Thanks 👍
You need to allow your soffit to vent out to the ridge. Pretty sure the blocking you installed would block the ventilation.
As I mentioned in the video (probably hard to see), I left a 1.5-2in gap at the top of the blocking