How To Install Insulation Stops [Baffles]
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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Shannon from www.house-impr... shows you how to install what are called insulation stops. Insulation stops are usually made of cardboard or foam and they are used to contain insulation in an attic and also allow airflow from the soffit vents.
If you have questions about your home improvement projects, stop by the forum on our website, where Shannon will answer your questions in detail for free.
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I had my house air-sealed and insulation blown in in 2008. This year I had to replace my roof and about 1/4 of the sheets of plywood due to the sheets rotting. All rafters now have plastic chutes, new ridge vent installed, and drilled a ton of holes in soffits and installed new vented soffits. Ventilation is very important if you start messing around adding insulation. Hiring a pro is not enough these days, you really have to do your research to verify they are doing everything correctly. Trust but verify.
I completely understand your point. I myself am a 3 year attic insulator. I do have a new attic insulation channel you can checkout. Hopefully you plan to put at least an r50 back in your attic. That's 18.5 inches of fiberglass blown in.
Shut your Republican mouth!
I don't have soffits or vent in stand up floored attic?? And no insulation at all in this 150 yr farmhouse?? 🤔I don't know what to do?
I have 9 baffles in stalled but 6 of them have been flatted inside by wood pushing the lm flush to ceiling , would this contribute to condensation problems ? Thanks
@@SinnisjInsulator what is your insulation podcast name?
Just bought my first house. I am going to be watching through all your videos over the next couple weeks. Keep doing what you are doing!
Welcome aboard!
Just found this guy, have to watch plenty of videos to see what I think - seams okay for the moment. But you can never have enough good information. Also Check out Matt Risinger channel - he really uses the top of the line and keeps up on all new technology. He is honest on his mistakes - working on his own home but builds and remodels. Very high on Rockwool, uses in his own home for insulation. . But another good source is This Old House and also Next Level Carpentry. I don’t recommend many YT channels but after almost 70 years, you can spot the experienced and good ones in minutes. Carefully research cellulose and foam. Don’t use open cell - it absorbs water like a sponge. Closed cell is high in insulation value per inch but expensive and I don’t like it unless you are adding mechanical ventilation to bring in fresh air which is also expensive. But also, anytime you cover up walls, attic roof deck, ceiling etc. - if any work has to be done, the foam is covering up and has to be pulled out to access but also putting foam up on roof means you can’t see damage to your roof until it’s so bad it’s dripping down to the first floor ceiling. A little late. If your roof has to be replaced ie the plywood- guess what, now your expensive foam is gone with the plywood because it’s stuck to it. So you have to have the foam reapplied. Foam applied to wood other than used to close up gaps around light fixtures etc. is just a crazy idea. My bets are in 10 years or so, someone will realize. Oh my gosh, we shouldn’t have done this like other things in history they realized speaks a bad idea too late. Some people are already waking up when they realize their floor and roofs are rotting out. Or mad when they realize the huge expensive of the foam but now they have to put in a whole mechanical ventilation system so they can breathe downstairs. And when the power goes off and it’s 10 F outside, opening up a door or window for some fresh air doesn’t work unless you and your plumbing wants to freeze. Look houses need to breathe, I don’t want a house so tight, I need to keep mechanical ventilation system going 24/7. I want to be able to glance at my roof deck and see where it’s dark places where’s it’s been dripping. Same with your basement walls etc. if you can’t see it, what do you do?
Cellulose is another bad idea - dusty. Full of fire retardant and of course the borate which is a natural product but still not something you want to be breathing in the dust. But if it gets wet, it is a huge clumpy soggy mess to get out. Like blown in fiberglass, it can blow around. It only helps better than blown in fiberglass with air better is because it’s heavy and dense. I have seen issues about if your attic is say 24” OC 2x4 and thin sheet rock about trying to get it to r38- r49 and higher for r60 for northern states in terms of weight. Plus if you have low ranch roof with trusses 11-17”+ blown in could be hitting the underside of the roof decking. Not good for mold etc. And some folks are saying it has to be replaced much sooner than marketing states plus it does sink down and needs to be constantly topped off to retain Rvalue.
If you going to do batts of of fiberglass you must airseal. Rockwool is fireproof (it won’t burn) and it doesn’t offgass or produce toxic smells. It’s in what the call Comfortbatts for the attic or walls. They have batts for internal walls and board for interior too, plus exterior product meant for use as rainscreen. Water just beads up off it - just make sure you are getting the correct product for the application. For example, there is product used for hydroponics which absorbs water, and I don’t think the interior wall product though a great sound and fire barrier is particularly waterproof. Rockwool is what companies have to install around fire pipes, can lamps, between apartments etc due to fire codes. If I have my way, my next house will be new built with all Rockwool interior and exterior and some foam for air sealing (Aerobarrier) but installed prior to wiring so it can run on top. But Aerobarrier isn’t like insulation foam, with pressure it’s pulled into every nook and cranny to seal up tiny air holes and seals up any gaps but it’s not like thick layers of foam. It’s to air seal, not for insulation purposes. But then I want magnesium board vs paper backed sheetrock. No paper for the carpenter ants or termites to eat. Magnesium board is also water proof (no paper) and fireproof and doesn’t offgass. It’s hard to get. But Rockwool if say your attic or basement gets water damage, you pull the batts out and let the sheet rock dry or replace it most likely - and reinstall the batts. Turn on their side or set in the sun to make sure any possible moisture is dried out if long exposure to water. But it’s not wasted. It is made of basalt rock and slag recycled from steel production. It’s quiet, friction fit and oversized to fill the area completely. Is cut with a serrated bread knife, you will want to use long sleeves and gloves. Many say it’s not itchy, other do - but it’s made out of rock and steel slag - might be a little rough on bare skin even if no allergy or sensitivity. You of course want to air seal all openings that allow air to transfer from interior to exterior or in unconditioned space. Like lights, venting gaps, top sills, etc what you would do for any insulation choice. It’s fireproof, great on sound deadening. A friend lived near an airport - she was there pre-airport didn’t want to move and lose their family farm. They petitioned with others to not have it built. Well with the money she got as compensation, they tore down the sheet rock and insulated every wall, and ceiling etc. even their interior bedroom walls. You could be outside and it might be deafening when jets were going out but inside, it was barely noticeable - you had to really strain to hear them. You could feel them better than hear them.
But I also want to use BoraCare and another of their product. It stops termites, wood eating beetles, carpenter ants, roaches, etc.on wood and concrete inside only. Also mold and mildew. Put on all the wood and concrete after the framing is up, then spray up 2’ from floor and the slab. Termites have been proven to not live on it -- they may start to tube a few inches on the slab for example and then die. The company even offers contractor warranties that it won’t be attacked by termites. This and Termidor treatment under the house before hand and around the house after building is completed and landscaping is done, and I think you are set as best as you can.
Always do projects beyond code. Code is the minimum building requirement and too many contractors make it sound like a big deal but it’s the least they can get by with. Always push for higher. Do your research. And forever sake, don’t forget to seal your attic hatch or stairs - make your own, by something like Energy Guardian’s attic hatch, stairs kit, or the brand Attic Zipper that provides some insulation vs,ie but seals the opening so you just unzip it when you need to go up but it keeps out dust etc but stops air flow between the house and the attic. If you don’t do something about that air, you might as well leave the door open 24/7. And every-time your system kicks on, all that warm air is getting sucked into the attic. Or even a door is opened where you are changing the pressure in the house. Think about it. Then all you need to check is your duct work... before spending thousands on foam sealing etc - check what new improved ducts would be by a company that specializes in new duct systems and how airtight they are.
Note on Rockwool, it’s not near as expensive as they state, make sure you don’t get over lied or quoted. I just went through this and had prices from double to 4x higher than I can buy it myself. Go to the Rockwool (used to be Roxul) website - look for the comfortbatt to start with. The website as a chart under specs that gives you all the products for the r value , USA or Canada, whether wood or steel framing, the joist etc spacing 16 or 24” on center, the height, length and thickness and the square footage each NPK covers and how many batts in each ok. If you know your square footage, divide it by the bag sq ft and you know how many of what you need. It says up in walls by itself, same in ceiling but if you aren’t putting up sheetrock, etc, you will want to use something to keep it up in case of vibration. It’s not nailed in place, not faced so air can travel through it. Depending on where it’s used depends on whether you need to vapor barrier. The directions and installation specs is under tools, guides, etc. And they are very nice to talk with and help you. Also if you get over 15 pks Lowe’s gives 30% discount.
And I have no affiliation what so ever with Rockwool (the brand) or anything else mentioned in this comment. Just trying to help with what I have learned the hard way..
HouseImprovements vids are so helpful. The topics covered are explained in enough detail to allow the viewer the opportunity to learn. As always, thanks for all the vids you post - I watch all of them, even if you're covering a topic I'm well versed in.
Best Regards
Glad you like them!
This was perfect timing. We just bought a house and the home inspector told us we should do this in the attic because it hadn't been done. I had no idea where to start! Thanks!
And if you want even more info on attic insulation check my channel for more how to videos
Totaly different building than here in Europe. We build every think with bricks, red or concret, Just the roof skelet is made from wood. The outside is then dressed with styrofoam of different thickness. Now is regular 20 centimeters of it. So the walls are very thick and isolation is very efitient. You can also get money from government. They say get new windows 3 layered glass and 20 cm minimum of styrofoam and you show them contract of everything and if everything is in order you get money back. Master builder world class 💪.
I didn't know about insulation stops because I'm not too savvy on construction. Thank you very much for the lesson.
thank you so much for this simple clear video - huge problem here with ice damns - there are baffles in the attic but they aren't installed correctly - not near enough airflow nor stapled in - thanks so much .
Great education! I just had my new built house inspected and they found out that the baffles were blocked with insulation. Still covered under the warranty so they are going to fix it. I had to come on youtube to find out what was baffles. Great explanation. Definitely subscribed.
Thank you.
Great Idea. I needed to maintain an inch of space of less on my exterior wall. I used chicken wire and scrap lumber to get the space between the wall and the fiberglass insulation in one room. But years down the road I want to open up the wall in another part of the house but use Great Stuff spray cans in conjunction with foam boards I got laying around. I want to maintain the spacing and your carboard idea fits the bill. THANKS for the idea.
Thanks for helping me decide which product I wanted to use I read reviews and cardboard works and is cheaper and easy to install.
I'm in the process of turning a shed into a tiny home for me and my children. We have the walls insulated and working on getting the ceiling done. I've been told different things about if it needs the baffles or not. Your video explained perfectly for me on how to do it and why so thank you.
Best of luck!
All attics need baffles, you can see this importance through my attic insulation channel.
How many sq ft?
Thank you for recording and posting this educational video.
Having to repair the mess from a water leak in our roof (thanks to the USA 2021 Big Freeze) and now I know what they are called!! Our insulation stops were white corrugated styrofoam, not stapled.
Very needed how to video video. Thank you very much. I couldn't get much insight on it talking to other professionals in the industry
I didn't know what to search so I just typed random related keywords and your video was exactly what I needed! Thanks man.
Hi Shannon long time since talked to you on here, I could only find the foam ones but did do those other week seem to work great but my wife decided for me to do some of what you do so thought I drop in and say hi, hope you been doing good. we finally purchased our own home and man I will be coming back and forth to see how to do things the right way or at least double check. But fyi are window install last summer went great so thank you for your window tips and videos they helped a lot
Thank you for this thorough yet simple explanation. Yours is the best on RUclips!💖
Bend a lip at the bottom of the baffle and staple it to the top plate to prevent air and insulation making it through that bottom gap.
I'm doing the shed-to-house thing, with no physical help and no experience. One friend donated about 10 rolls of carpet padding to insulate the loft ceiling with. My brother, who is aging and too far away to help, told me to staple it right up against the roofing OSB boards. I'm also using cardboard on the walls in the main level, but second thought makes me wonder if the cardboard won't contribute to mold if there is any condensation in the future? I'm leaving the roof ridge uncovered for air flow. Could you give me any pointers?
Thanks. Very well explained. Good tip to extend them.
No problem!
Seems like you could use some spray foam air sealing, around where the baffle touches the ceiling/top plate. Easy and stops cold air flow from getting under insulation. I'd imagine helps to keep the short folded side of the baffle in place during heavy winds.
None of that should really be an issue.
Wondered how that was done, now I know. Good tip, thank you.
Love your videos, you always explain things perfectly !! Thanks again.
That looks easy for new construction but what's the easiest for an attic with ceilings already installed?
There is no easy way, Crawl in carefully and install them, without falling through the ceiling.
We are renoing our first house, the attic was insulated with wood chips. We have removed them and are installing baffles today 😁. Do you think laying down insulation batts (r20) and than blowing in some insulation on top will work? We have extra batts. Thanks for the video!
Can I use regular bats of insulation with these baffles or are they only to be used with blown-in insulation?
Thank you so much!
Well explained !
Appreciate your video!
Anyone else think that using cardboard stapled to wood to deal with moisture issues is a bad idea? I remember years ago as a teenager I helped my father install aluminium siding, which had a cardboard backing. I asked him if the cardboard would get wet and rot the house. He said 'no, the guys that sold it said it was water-proofed'. 5 years later we were replacing the siding with a closed celled foam backing and had to replace a good bit of water-logged rotten wood. I can see moisture, insect, and rot issues in this homeowners future.
I'm not sure.. there is a constant air flow over the cardboard. Though I personally would have used the foam ones.
You have verbalized my worries. See my comment up a ways here in this thread. Man, I don't want to rip out everything I've already done! However.....
Always wondered why my house just has foam pieces laying on the insulation around my soffits. Looks like the installers didn't staple them up but just laid them in:( I only have like 6-8 inches of blown in and need to add more, sounds like I'm going to need to install these correctly first.
You really do need a topup. Checkout my how to channel on attic insulation for more info.
Thank you for doing the second one, I also live in a colder climate and was wondering if that was ok to do to get a R49(min)-60 in my attic
What if you can't access the inside area of the soffit and you are working with an aluminum sides soffit that doesn't have enough vents? How would you baffle the insulation from outside?
You can usually slide these up inside from the exterior .You just can't fasten them but the insulation may keep them held up depending on the situation .
Thanks for this tip Shannon. I was unaware of this item...
Thanks for putting this information together. How long will the cardboard last before it has to be replaced?
Should last for many many years its even a little waxy to protect from moisture.
Do you have any advice for retrofitting baffles in an existing structure? I'll also be replacing my existing soffit with vented soffit. Enjoy your videos. Can't wait for the travel restrictions to be lifted so we can visit for our family in Toronto.
If you are going to have the soffit open you can push these in from outside usually and then go in the attic and secure the upper ends
@@HouseImprovements that's what I was thinking. The pitch is fairly low so that could make an unpleasant job somewhat better.
@@mystreteacher it's actually not too bad to install them if you have a 3 foot plank, a broom stick and a hammer stapler. I've done hundreds of attics where I install venting from inside the attic. One thing is you should also topup your attic with insulation once you're done walking in there.
Shannon, I have seen videos lately where the builders are using a baffle system all the way to the peak before installing fiberglass insulation. Does this serve the same purpose? and is it really required? Great video by the way!
Yes that would serve the same purpose in a vaulted or cathedral ceiling. In a flat ceiling like my video, you just need to install them to a point where they will be a few inches above the insulation.
you are a gem
I need to do this in my 1950s house. It certainly won't be as easy. I don't even know how close to the top plate I can get.
Good job Shannon
It is a great video. If you want even more info on attic insulation, checkout my channel.
outstanding! Very informative!!!!
In your experience how long would say the cardboard baffle holds before it starts to weaken due to the environment in a R-Value Zone 4-5?
They have kind of a waxy finish so they last many many years. I have never seen any have problems unless the roof leaks for a while right over one.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks for the info.
You said that you can use the foam ones. How do the foam ones work with blown in insulation? How do they fold down to meet the top of the wall like you are showing with the cardboard ones? I thought the foam ones were only used with insulation batts.
You would have to add a "dam" using cardboard or wood blocking at the wall and the foam ones staple to the under side of the roof sheathing
@@HouseImprovements I ended up making my own out of some left over plywood that I had lying around. I wanted it gone anyway. It worked out really well.
Very clear. Nice video!
Do you have to put them in every slot or just the ones that have a outside vent?
I was told by my inspector that you put them only where vents (soffits) are located.
Great video. Thank you
Do you have a video of when you baffle all the way up to ridge?
I do not.
Shannon, where did you source the baffles/stops? I can only find the poly ones and all of these are for 22 inch centres. I have a hip roof with16 inch centres. The poly are way too large or too small. Could you please provide a link?
Can-Cel and Weathershield are two brands here in Canada. There was link on Amazon but they are unavailable right now.
Just get some styrofoam ones or you can honestly just cut cardboard to fit your 16 inch truss cavities. Checkout my attic insulation for more info.
Looking at buying a house that has roll insulation all the way out over the soffit vents that needs pulled back. I'm wondering if I would be able to just drop the soffit down from the outside to cut that excess off or would I have to do this from inside the attic? Thoughts?
I see you did not staple to the roof decking. I have 4 insulation quotes and they are all stapling to the decking. My issue is the roof and decking are being replaced in 3 years. So I can direct my contractor, what products are designed to staple to the truss structure instead of the roof decking?
These cardboard units are wide enough to staple to trusses
How do I insulate a ceiling that does NOT have outside eave vents. This is a 12x24 cottage style shed (omish built you see all around for rent to own). Its an "A" frame style
I would likely use a roof edge vent under the shingles and a ridge vent . insulate the ceiling but leave an air space under the roof sheathing. Otherwise I would have it insulated with closed cell spray foam , then you dont need the ventilation.
@@HouseImprovements thank you. Does this change any if I have a metal roof?
Do you have to install multiple of these to create a channel the entire way up the rafters to the vent?
well damn, here I am wanting to do the opposite. I wanted to have sprayfoam insulation added directly in contact with the plywood, and use these to allow airflow from the soffits, preventing blocking them off. I guess if I wanted to be more wrong about something I could take all the shingles off my roof....
great explanation tx
You're welcome!
Im going to insulate my garage ceiling.
My garage has 3 soffit vents on each side.
My rafters are 2ft centers.
Every 2 rafters there is a soffit vent.
I should only need attic rafter vents where the soffit vents are which are every 2 rafters.
Is that correct?
Chances are you do not have enough soffit vents if that is all you have . In my forum we can help you determine that. Even if you do have enough you will need more than just baffles where the vents are because they restrict the amount of square inches of flow you get. Personally I would install them in each rafter bay
Should each rafter bay be vented or every 2nd rafter..is good enuf
Depends on the amount of ventilation you need . Most places are looking for a min. of 1sq' of ventilation evenly distributed between soffit venting and roof top venting for every 300sq' of ceiling area. we can discuss this in more detail if you need it ,in my forum.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Great Video. Guess that was garage you just built. Is the insulation blown in from the roof once the ceiling is finished?
we have side vents in our 1960s attic and solid, unvented soffits. in your opinion, is there any merit to cutting open the old wood soffits for better circulation?
Do attic baffles block any radiant heat if you run them between your rafters, up towards the roof ridge vent? I have a bunch of extra baffles, so i was going to use them up in that manner if they blocked some of the roofs radiant heat.
I dont think they will do much for that and adding them all the way to the peak will reduce the air flow you are trying to accomplish to get the hot air out of the attic. You want fresh air coming in and hot attic air going out.
I totally get the idea of needing the cool air moving in and heat out, but our house is on an acreage just east of saskatoon and we get a lot of wind and in the winter sometimes when its super windy, the snow will blow through the soffits of our non-insulated garage and in the morning i wake up to a 1/4" of snow covering everything on that side of the garage... would installing the baffles stop this especially if I cheat a little and close them up a little tighter on that one side? Only happens on the one side of the garage, the other I will leave just like you showed in the video... any advice would be appreciated...
This may reduce some but won't stop it completely.
Am I right in thinking that I would want a soffit vent between each rafter if you are going to use the baffles between each rafter?
Around here we use aluminum vented soffit panels so they are all vented but if you are adding in vents to the wood soffits then it depends on the size of the building and air flow you need. We could help you more on the forum if you wanted to ask there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Thanks!
Thank you!
I'm in alaska and plan to have cathedral ceilings on my cabin do I go to the top all the way to the Ridge vent? and how does ventilation happen if there's insulation , vapor barrier and sheet rock covering the ridgevent ? My roof is metal. Thanks.
Honestly there won't be a lot of airflow if your cathedral ceiling does not have much if an attic space above it. For example if your framing is only 2*10s and then you put your insulation and poly after your plywood roof. Not much sense installing rafters. Checkout my attic insulation channel for more info.
Question.....who install baffles framer or insulation contractor?
I normally do it when building new, not sure what everyone else does. Much easier to install before the ceiling is done
My soffits do not have ventilated holes all along the entire length of the soffits, only every 10 feet or so. Do I need to install baffles in between every rafter or just where the ventilated holes are located? I'm going to be blowing in more insulation soon and would like to know how many baffles to install Thank you
I would do at least 3 rafter bays at each vented soffit area and you need to plug off the rest to keep blow in insulation out off soffit.. Since these will also do that I would just install all of the rafter spaces with baffles.
I am pretty sure someone already asked this question, but where you you get that kind?
My local hardware store has them. Home Hardware.
Helpful info thx
Not sure if this was already answered but if I'm using batt insulation can I avoid the baffles if I don't cover the soffit vents with the batting?
If you are careful to allow a clear path for air flow.
Not sure I like that these are cardboard, technically these are outside... won't they potentially absorb humid air in the summer like a sponge and rot over time ?
And cardboard attracts bugs.
I've seen 40 year old cardboard baffles and they become very solid in fact especially in an attic with low insulation. They have never rotted away.
@@SinnisjInsulator I've seen 40 year old cars in fantastic condition also.... that doesn't mean allot of others aren't rotted out.
@@macleanclassics well I highly dought the homeowner went to the attic and maintained these vents like you would a car.
@@SinnisjInsulator no doubt, thats why I think the styro or poly ones might just be a better option
Timely as all heck. Just bought a place and the only insulation in the roof of the detached garage is 1” styrofoam sheet attached to the underside of the rafters (forming a ceiling of sorts). Walls are being insulated now and the ceiling will be next week (working on my own and I am slow).
I will be putting fibreglass batts between rafters (I have a steel roof, if it makes a difference). There are gable vents and I believe a ridge vent (will double check before going too far). How many of these rafter vents do I need? Is every other rafter enough?
Thanks
Most areas you need at least 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300-400 sq. feet of floor area. That ventilation number is devided evenly between soffit and roof ventilation. We can help more on the forum if you post a question there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Where can I buy these specific cardboard baffles? I don't see anything at the box stores.
How does the cardboard hold up in humid areas?
I can't says for sure as we are not real humid all year but it is wax coated . There are other styles that are kind of a foam product.
Do the baffles get installed only at where the vents are or in between all rafters?
If you have vented soffit and a vented attic space they are installed at every rafter space.
@@HouseImprovements I do not have a vented soffit, just screened vents through out.
Great video and explanation as always, Shannon. Very helpful. Question...Do you need to install a baffle between every rafter, or just where holes in soffits exists? Looking forward to hearing from you as I’m now in the process of heating/ insulating my double garage. Thanks
not necessarily .as long as you have enough air flow. you may need to block the other ends to keep blown in insulation from blowing out into the soffit.
Thanks Shanon. I’ll follow your lead Sir!
I would recommend for every truss cavity because this will maximize your airflow especially during the summer when it's really hot. Checkout my attic insulation channel for more info.
Great video
I have a question I have shed style roof that I'm going to close on the inside so I will need to vent each one of the rafter section like it's Owen little piece of roof
So if I put vent hole out side top and bottom with wire to cover for birds and bugs leave a space between roof and rigid insulation will that work to vent the channels so I don't mess up the shetting of the roof thanks Tara
Yes if each stud bay is ventilated you should be fine. Air flow from eave to ridge of roof.
Hello great video quick question what size is the cardboard you are using and any recommendation on where I can purchase it online?
You can honestly use any cardboard box and cut it and fold it to size. Usually you need 24 or 16 inch in center cardboard pieces. Leave a bit on both ends so you can staple it in place. Make sure you can still see your top plate of your outter wall as described in the video so insulation can cover it. Checkout my attic insulation channel for more info.
So I have soffits but no attic jus a ceiling do I need baffles? It was an addition to the house
you should have a 1" space between the bottom of the roof sheathing and the top of insulation for air flow. The air should flow from soffit out through the ridge and this keeps the roof space cooler under the shingles making the shingles last longer.we can discuss more in the forum if you wish.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
What do you think about using expanding foam between top plate and card board baffle?
Overkill or a great way to stop anything from blocking the airflow from soffit?
I could be wrong but seems like if you calculate the needed air flow you shouldn't need to put a vent into every truss space. Maybe every other one two or three depending... Anyone?
You would correct depending on how large the building is and how much airflow you need. if using blown in insulation you still need to block off the ones you are not venting so the insulation does not blow out into the soffit area. In all honesty IMO you can't have too much ventilation in most areas.
@@HouseImprovements Thanks for your input. I love your channel... I'm insulating our new construction right now. That helps thank you.
I've been looking for something like this for a long time. Thank you sir.
Can I use any cardboard from scraps or is it a specialized one? Also do they sell them at big box stores in cardboard or plastic? So you have follow up videos to the completed insulation say bat insulation and do I need to place a vapour barrier over the batt
Thank you in advance
Most box stores will sell a foam type that staples right to the under side of the roof sheathing.I dont have insulating for this roof specifically but I do have wall insulation videos. Around here most people get the ceiling blowen in by a specialty contractor. If you live in an area that requires vapour barriers then it is applied to the bottom of the bottom cord of the rafters
But when you get to the top, how does the air move away toward the vent. Doesn't the rafter get in the way of the air flow up top? Maybe drill holes?
You get a natural convection happening that takes the warmer air out through either roof vents or ridge vents.
Love .I need my done were are they
You can purchase insulation stops or baffles at pretty much anywhere that has insulation
@@HouseImprovements Thank you
Will this work with steel Rubes as well
Do you need to put these between every rafter or just a few down each side?
It would be best between every rafter to keep insulation out of soffit and to keep airflow working well.
@@HouseImprovements Im building a garage and was thinking of blocking every second rafter section off with batt.
I've been asked to do vinyl siding for just a 28' section with no corners, i.e. it won't be covering the entire wall, My problem is, how do I prevent water from getting in through the back of the J-Channel?
You could press the J into a small bead of caulk at the wall if you are concerned.
@@HouseImprovements
Thanks, I'll work with that.
Does this cardboard insulation stopper better than the plastic insulation stopper?
I just prefer these but both work fine
hello im not much of a carpenter ,i have a garage attached to the house its more like a lean tube with walls un insulated, concrete floor. im making half into a game room it has 2x6 joist in the ceiling. no vented soffit and no vented top vent. do i need to put a vent in the top and do i need to run baffles from the top down to the other half of the garage? any information will help me and thank you very much .
Our forum is a better place for your questions , we can have an easier conversation there. please copy and paste your question there.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Is cardboard a good choice if there is a chance it could get wet from a roof leak?
If you have a roof leak you have bigger issues.
@@HouseImprovements yes indeed. Ceiling replacement and insulation replacement.
Is that just a cardboard baffle? Wouldn't that have moisture issues?
Also, would you be using some kind of seam tape between pieces to prevent drafts?
This cardboard has a waxy coating. The draft is not an issue , attics are crafty and need airflow. Air barriers prevent the cold drafts from entering the living space.
@@HouseImprovements my HVAC system is in my attic and there are several can lights between the kitchen and living room with a finished floor in the attic. House is drafty af. Thinking of making the attic a conditioned space simply by installing baffles and closed cell foam along with encapsulated crawlspace to give the HVAC system a break rather than trying to airseal the buttload of openings in the ceiling.
Where I can buy those baffles from ?
Check you local lumber yards.
If you're going to blow in insulation, be sure not to blow it over the chute.
Please add pvc wall panels installation video
Where you purchase this stops ?
Cool stuff. R60 ? What do you recommend for a house attic ?
Totally depends on where you live. Up here in Canada and I would say the Northern states as well ,R50 right now is the min. R value in an attic.
@@HouseImprovements we have r60 now as the new code where I work. 22.25 inches for fiberglass. Nice walkthrough video. I do also have a attic insulation channel I'm working on.
Where did you purchase these?
My local lumber retailer has them but many places only sell foam ones now.
I’ve only seen plastic ones certainly not cardboard or foam. The PVs are only like $2.00 from Menards. And they aren’t so easy as these cardboards to get shoved back in the wrong place. A
Cardboard for mice to chew thru.
👍
I don't think those were used in my attic. I know the blow in insulation was used though. I don't have a roof vent, only attic side vents.
Add a "ridge vent" and your attic will be so much happier. Shannon is the best! But I'm miffed that he used just one vent in that roof. (customer must have cheaped out) The ridge vent means that all the air travels straight up and out where as having one or two vents means the air comes into the attic and it all fights to get out the same hole(s) This leaves areas that have stagnant air, warm spots, cool spots, just generally uneven venting all around. This can leave moisture in areas and mold growth.
Easier to do before drywall is installed 😂
Wouldn’t they get damp?…
They have kind of a waxy film over them.