Carlos Casas... I salute you sir! Excellent piece of hardware you’ve brought to the Sim racing community! Well done. Also another excellent review Barry. Keep up the good work!
I have the 18Nm Augury H on my rig for about 4 weeks now, and for me it works great. I have it turned down to about 45% in tork and that's plenty to deal with. Having a thrustmaster TX before it is the perfect step to an OSW for me. Thank you for the review.
@@SupermotoUSA322 it's not that hard to do, but you have to play with the settings a lot, in game and in the simucube software. Augury provides you with a step by step installation guide for the first setup. Then I did read the simucube wiki and started from there. You definitely need to put some time in it, but that's part of the fun.
After month of comparing and testing i went for the Augury 18Nm and it will arrive at the 8/1 and your review just make the waiting harder (in a very good way). I would also like to thank you for the superb job you are doing for the sim racing community! No part is to cheap OR expensive for you to take a look at and that is so fundamental. I would also like to wish you a really good 2019 and i am looking forward to every notification "bling" coming from you because i know i will have a good time watching. All my best from Sweden!
Hi Barry, great video! It be great if you could do a comparison to test between the 3 motors mige 18,20&30Nm. All with the same latest, simucube/ionipro hc electronics box as in this video.
Great review, what a nice bit of kit, such attention to detail is what a lot of us look for when making such a purchase to bolt to our rigs, I saw your review of the 3 DD wheels in comparison just as I was about to buy the Accuforce wheel, you had the Leo Bodnar, OWS and AF all side by side and the driver enclosure for the AF was such a let down, almost an amateur looking setup aside a nice looking motor, it really put me off, this is the sort of gear I like to see, sold :)
Fun thing to put huge cables where a small one is plenty enough, just for the sake of making it “powerful” looking on the motor it says 220V, 1.5KW, 6 AMPS, which a normal small cable can accommodate easily.
Awesome review! I can’t want until you get you’re hands on a Fanatec direct drive 2 or the PlayStation Edition Fanatec DD setup. DD1 or the ps4 version.
TheStigmacher I'll be very impressed if it's holding torque is actually 18Nm, if I'm not mistaken that's the highest holding torque for a sim wheel, When it comes to detail Fanatec should know what they're doing and I trust them, 5 years warranty on top with a sleek design and I'm sold.
@@azzifyy5988You've got it right. This is the largest commercial effort to bridge the DIY and consumer gap. It's going to have all the convenience of a consumer wheel with dead-on precision in the electronics unit they've been working on for years now. That's the biggest part honestly, transmitting the power from the motor, smoothing it, then receiving it on the end in the software. Having complete control of that process will be powerful, like an Apple computer. That said, don't underestimate the power of the open source community. I think both will end up being very similar with Fanatec winning simply because they will always have the time and resources.
Great review, but it seems the sound is about a second ahead of the video. I love the casing on that controller box & the design on the mounting brackets.
Just a note about this review. Barry seems to think the 18Nm takes less power than the 20Nm Mige, but that's not the case at all. the 18Nm 130ST-M06025 is less efficient than the 20Nm Mige. It takes as much power as the 30Nm mige to run which is why it requires the same PSU and Ioni Pro HC as the 30Nm motor. It's just a less efficient motor.
I bought an F1S steering wheel from Augury and was blown away by its quality (especially at this price point). If someone is looking for a nice formula/GT wheel then take a look in their shop. Compared to this the Formula and McLaren rims from Fanatec are a joke.
@@karoo_bushman6880 I would say higher end. An Ascher Racing button box feels better. But here you'll get a complete wheel for less money. The buttons are a little bit wobbly, shifters are ok (but not magnetic), the encoders are awesome, the display and its software are top notch and the wheel feels fantastic in my hands. I've mounted it with a Q1R to a Kollmorgen motor and it's rock solid. The old Fanatec Formula rim is shaped more like a V and it's way to small for my taste, my wrists started to hurt after playing a while because it's not very ergonomic. And the new F1 wheel from Fanatec still has this same shape. You'll get what you've paid for with the F1S. Would definitly buy it again. Their AkiraGP wheel is on my wishlist for next christmas. :-)
I see in their website they are calling it an OSW, but I’ve talked to one of the original people who developed the actual OSW, and none of these kits are actually “OSW”. OSW really refers to the original DIY stuff that you had to build from scratch. It is pretty much deprecated as the stuff used in those kits is pretty much obsolete at this point. OSW is just a moniker that has stuck with any DD unit since those days. (Not that it really matters tho). Great review As always Barry.
Another great review form the SRG. I am in the process of ordering the 30 Nm version, but that is beyond the point here, as my question relates to mapping of buttons on the different wheels you are using. When you change steering wheels with different button plates, will you have to remap the buttons - or does the software recognise the different wheels you are using? I ask because together with the DD I will have two different wheels that I will use with the servo for my racing I iRacing and RaceRoom,, and it would be great to be able to swap without having to remap the different buttons and shifters every time. Already looking forward to your next video👍
Late for this video, but Great review Barry! And right in time; i'm shopping to upgrade from my T300. Have you taken a look at their upcoming Pedals as well? They look incredible.
It would be interesting to hear what you think about the 30Nm motor you have just acquired. Seems like you have been able to try the whole gamut of dd wheels now.
How would you compare it to the Accuforce V2? I'm trying to decide between these systems at the moment, and the OSW is clearly more expensive, by quite a margin, but it may be a lot better than the accuforce so it is worth looking into it I guess? Can you share something? Thank you from Uruguay!
If cost is your top priority, then the Accuforce V2 is a no brainer I think. The OSW systems are more versatile and the Mige servo motors that come with them have an overall better feel to them than the AF's stepper motor. Only real way to know what you prefer would be to try both systems.
@@simracinggarage3026 Thanks a lot! I guess I will give the accuforce a go and see what I think. Love your channel btw, grest job you do for the community!
great video Barry. after all the testing you have done on direct drive wheels, including this one, do you still always want to go back to your Leo Bodnar? i ask this as i too have sim steering V2 and i can’t believe the price of this setup. it’s 3 x cheaper than leo bodnar in UK. and reflection on the difference between them? thanks in advance
Yeah, still running the SS2 with the 54G. There's just something about that system that keeps me coming back. Hard to explain, but I am running the "magic sauce" FW from Pro-Sim. And of course not everyone would feel the same way.
Hi Barry. Thank you for another well detailed product video review . I noticed you have a Lacroix eboard. I would very much like to see a review of it from you. Can this be done? Thanks again for sharing your passion in sim racing
Only way to know for sure it to test them yourself. I don't like to recommend one motor over the others. Just because I like the 30Nm certainly doesn't mean you, or anyone else will. A lot of folks seem to like the 20Nm. Once you have an OSW controller box and set of cables, you can test other Mige motors at will. As long as they have a Simucube compatible encoder on them.
Hey Barry, could you make exclusive video comparison between all the top direct drive wheels. I need to know since I’m running the Leo bodner. Nice setup man 🤙🏽
I bought this kit before Xmas. I can confirm, its outstanding. My only gripe is the mounting bracket i was sent doesnt have a cutout section on both sides (mine is only on the left )to orientate the motor plugs on the left or right depending on your setup. If youre looking for good rims to pair with this, go to www.simracingcoach.com/en/ ..
@Sim Racing Garage for those who still want to do a DIY OSW what case do you recommend for the control box (IONI, Simucube board, PSU)? Online stores has stopped selling the control box by itself when SImucube 2 was introduced. Thanks
Hey Barry, I’ve been debating this vs simracingbay 20nm. With the SRB setup there is a fanatec QR piece they include then just add on the SRM adapter for fanatec wheels. Given I already have a collection of fanatec wheels, I can’t seem to figure out what is needed to make them work on the augury setup, can you advise? Thanks.
To make your Fanatec wheels work with any DD setup you will need to convert each wheel to USB. SRM has a kit that let's you retain the Fanatec wheel side QR. I don't think most who convert use that kit. They opt for the SRM USB conversion kit that includes a wheel side adapter that has 70mm and 50.8mm hole patterns for mounting you choice of QR system. That is the way I converted my Fanatec wheels. I then use the awesome Q1R QR system to mount all my wheels including the Fanatecs. If you want to keep the Fanatec QR system and use the Augury OSW, just buy the Fanatec adapter from SRBay and mount that to the motor.
Sim Racing Garage thanks! Yeah, the only issue is SRBay will not sell their motor side adapter separate from a OSW order which makes things difficult. I really want to give augury a try but without that SRB adapter it makes things expensive converting each wheel individually. Have to put some serious thought into this and maybe just go with the SRB DD package or Augury and sell off all of my fanatec rims and move over
For the amount of power the FFB scene now has available (thanks to DD drive becoming much more common), we need the actual FFB technology to evolve. FFB technology is too far behind what the capability of DD drive motors can achieve and therefore there is often unrealistic forces and general wheel behaviour in the way the forces are output. I've driven with 17 Nm (I own a large Mige Simucube OSW) and it produces certain outputs and behaviors that are wayyyyy stronger than real life, let alone 20, 25, 30, or 40 Nm. FFB in real life is simply reactive, it's not active, this alone makes comparing Nm to real life simply wrong because the forces and behaviour are happening in a completely different way to real life even though an "on paper" number like Nm might match on average or at a given moment. Saying a DD wheel has, for eg., 20 Nm which matches the real car being driven is like saying a sim/game must automatically be realistic and have great physics because a car in real life can't drive through a certain corner faster than a certain speed and that same car in-game also can't drive through the same corner faster than that same speed....or...a car in real life brakes at x meters for a certain corner and so does the car in-game for the same corner. It's massively over-simplifying things. Just to begin with, the way FFB and FFB motor/firmware technology works in general is on it's own fundamentally completely opposite to real life. In real life, "FFB" is simply reactive while game-FFB is active. Just that alone means often completely different FFB behaviour. I was obsessed with DD drive inertia and especially Nm numbers for over 6 months while researching a DD wheel to buy. Trust me, don't pay much attention to it. We're not driving a real car or something which even simulates a real car in the same way a real car works but rather something that is trying to simulate a real car while using a completely different fundamental concept to simulate it. 99.9% of people will be way more than happy with 15 or 20 Nm.
Agreed. This is completely ridiculous. Not even a 2T shifter kart without any assistance can produce those forces. It seems a stupid marketing race to see who will sell the wheel that is going to brake your arms. 15 nM is already more than any racing car or kart can produce.
@@lebojay Yes but can't really compare to real-life. The way real-life "FFB" is "output" and behaves is on an entirely different fundamental concept. Torque-based + passive/reactive system + tons of weight/inertia (compared to sims) VS velocity and/or position based + active system + almost 0 inertia (besides software filter inertia). They're completely different concepts of outputting and controlling the power and how it behaves. It's part of the reason why almost every real-life driver who tries a DD wheel at supposed real-life Nm settings says the FFB is way too high as-well as aggressive. It's a completely different behaviour regardless of the Nm on paper.
@@Spinelli__ Hi Spinelli, I've been following your posts for years, I've gathered you've got some real open wheel action under your belt, so I would immensely appreciate if you could clarify a couple of things and help me with my future purchase: My financial situation is, mildly put, not ideal. But my passion is strong and I wanna buy something that would last me forever. I'm very much aware that the FFB tech is fundamentally flawed, but what motor would you recommend for the most realistic feeling within the current FFB capabilities? I'm solely interested in emulating a late 90's CART steering feel, that's the only thing I drive. The emphasis is on the "emulation", I know that it will never be a 1:1 experience. Would a let's say Mige 110ST-M06030 with 18nm Peak give me a somewhat natural feel, or should I go with the Large Mige because of the natural inertia of the motor? Long story short, could you please take a look at the video below (the first 5 minutes) and tell me what gear should I buy in order to partially replicate the forces seen in the footage? ruclips.net/video/-eIGQpwcgIo/видео.html&ab_channel=TheIndySnake I know that I'm maybe asking too much, but if you could thoroughly analyze the video and give me your honest opinion about the subject, I would appreciate it so much!
There are few online venders selling Machine Keys. Need to measure your keyway for the appropriate size. Or, you might be able to source one from Mige themselves.
To add more inertia you could theoretically just add more weight and inertia to the wheel itself? Like some spacer plate that simply slows down the wheel a bit?
Not really. Due to the very old and dated FFB technology game/sim developers as well as FFB wheel makers continue using, what will happen is the FFB motor will just add more power/force to make up for the extra weight of a heavier wheel (unless you were previously maxing out the capability of the motor with the lighter wheel). When games/sims and FFB wheels start simulating more of a real life type of FFB which is reactive, not active, then what you're thinking would work as it would in a real car. Your thinking is exactly what I wanted to do too. I mounted a Fanatec BMW GT2 wheel to my OSW which is one of the heaviest wheels you can buy in order to try and make the FFB more realistic while still keeping strength. Well, the FFB was not anymore less harsh than my previous lighter wheel because the motor just adds more power/force in order to move the heavier wheel with the same speed or acceleration (or as close as possible) as the lighter wheel. For the amount of power the FFB scene now has available (thanks to DD drive becoming much more common), we need the actual FFB technology to evolve. FFB technology is too far behind what the capability of DD drive motors can achieve and therefore there is often unrealistic forces and general wheel behaviour in the way the forces are output. It's a little annoying and very simple-minded when all people talk about is Nm this, Nm that. I've driven with 17 Nm (I own a large Mige Simucube OSW) and it produces certain outputs and behaviors that are wayyyyy stronger than real life, let alone 20, 25, 30, or 40 Nm. FFB in real life is simply reactive, it's not active, this alone makes comparing Nm to real life simply wrong because the forces and behaviour are happening in a completely different way to real life even though an "on paper" number like Nm might match on average or a given moment.
@@Spinelli__ I mean technically you could add more and more inertia so that you do overpower the wheel? It just might be quite a lot. Same thing with damping. I'm not actually even sure if that is worth the effort as you may get unrealistic results such as overshoot or lower speed oscillations. Maybe the issue is not ffb but just the software between the wheel and the sim?
@@erwinlommer197 I have no idea what the issue is but I think the fantastic power, speed, and acceleration of DD wheels is amazingly awesome but also definitely exposes quite a bit of unwanted behaviour that I never knew existed in FFB before moving to a DD wheel. Regarding the wheel's inertia setting, I have a feeling I probably add a more relative amount of inertia (through the settings) compared to most others but, you're correct, when you add too much you start getting other weird results. Regarding the wheel's damping settings, it does help somewhat but the problem with damping is it just overall kills all FFB detail. It's just a sort of blanket setting. A few FFB gurus told me that in an ideal scenario, our FFB would be based on actual torque signals. Currently it's based on speed and/or acceleration sensing in combination with position sensing. When FFB software/hardware/firmware moves to a truly torque-based system rather than position based, supposedly that will be the next big step in realism. I even lowered the wheel down to a fairly lowly 7-ish Nm through the amperage limitation settings to compare to my Fanatec CSW v2.0 which is apparently about 7.3 Nm. While the overall power of the DD wheel was then very low, there were still often times were there seemed to be an over-persistent amount of high powered forces coming through especially with regards to the "centering spring" (I think this is known as S.A.T.). That's another thing that is way too aggressive and wrist-bending in DD wheels, the S.A.T. It doesn't matter what game you play. The only way to calm this down is to add a bunch of damping but, again, that just kills overall FFB across the board so it's a very non-ideal compromise.
Nardi has a 73.6mm PCD. You will need an adapter that converts to 70mm PCD. There are many available I think. A quick search came up with this: www.amazon.com/Flashpower-0-5-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Conversion-Spacer-Polished/dp/B072FD477P
![SimRacingBay - SimuCube Based OSW KIT + Mige (20NM) + BISS-C + CM10010 Case [GER | ENG]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HHTV2oPDzhA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a small Mige OSW from Augury that I have had for about 3 years now. I have had no problems with it and I can recommend buying from Augury.
Carlos Casas... I salute you sir! Excellent piece of hardware you’ve brought to the Sim racing community! Well done. Also another excellent review Barry. Keep up the good work!
I have the 18Nm Augury H on my rig for about 4 weeks now, and for me it works great. I have it turned down to about 45% in tork and that's plenty to deal with. Having a thrustmaster TX before it is the perfect step to an OSW for me. Thank you for the review.
how do you like the FFB software? Is it easy to adjust settings and get a good feeling?
@@SupermotoUSA322 it's not that hard to do, but you have to play with the settings a lot, in game and in the simucube software. Augury provides you with a step by step installation guide for the first setup. Then I did read the simucube wiki and started from there. You definitely need to put some time in it, but that's part of the fun.
After month of comparing and testing i went for the Augury 18Nm and it will arrive at the 8/1 and your review just make the waiting harder (in a very good way). I would also like to thank you for the superb job you are doing for the sim racing community! No part is to cheap OR expensive for you to take a look at and that is so fundamental. I would also like to wish you a really good 2019 and i am looking forward to every notification "bling" coming from you because i know i will have a good time watching. All my best from Sweden!
Youll be very very pleased with it. Got mine for two months now, and all I can say is nothing but great things
@@marcosousaesteves Thank you Marco, yes i am quite exited to say the least. Going from a T500 to this one and v3 modified pedals...
I have owned the 18 nm for around a couple months as well and nothing but good things to say about it too.
@@marcosousaesteves I got it feeling good in all games apart from Rfactor 2. I don't suppose you have any decent settings for it?
@@davebell771 try adding some in game damping. Maybe 5 or 10. Worked wonders on my small Mige.
Hi Barry, great video!
It be great if you could do a comparison to test between the 3 motors mige 18,20&30Nm.
All with the same latest, simucube/ionipro hc electronics box as in this video.
Great review, what a nice bit of kit, such attention to detail is what a lot of us look for when making such a purchase to bolt to our rigs, I saw your review of the 3 DD wheels in comparison just as I was about to buy the Accuforce wheel, you had the Leo Bodnar, OWS and AF all side by side and the driver enclosure for the AF was such a let down, almost an amateur looking setup aside a nice looking motor, it really put me off, this is the sort of gear I like to see, sold :)
I would love to see a review of their AkiraGP, not many f1 wheels with functioning MFDs
Which is better??? This or the accuforce v2??
Great review as always Barry. Got this exact kit for two months now, and I couldn't be more pleased with it! For the money, is a no brainer!
Did you have any issues with the twitchiness mentioned by Barry coz I need to makeup my mind whether to go for the 18 or 20/30 Miges.
@@mofa9999 any issues. A friend of mine got the 30 nm one, and and you barely can't tell the differences
@@marcosousaesteves 😳 SAME???
Good timing on the review. Just happened to order the Augury 18Nm yesterday. Looking forward to it.
Very nice review. I hope you'll soon get the opportunity to make a review of the Sim-Plicity compact series.
Been working on sourcing one.
Under 1500 with a wheel ! Thanks for bringing this to my attention ha
02semiata I’m pretty
Sure that’s Barry’s rim
Chris Shelton they sell a package on their site with wheels
augurysimulations.com/producto/pack-augury-h-osw-eng/ and augurysimulations.com/producto/pack-augury-v-eng/
You also have to pay VAT and shipping will get's expensive. For $1400 CAD it should be free.
Fun thing to put huge cables where a small one is plenty enough, just for the sake of making it “powerful” looking on the motor it says 220V, 1.5KW, 6 AMPS, which a normal small cable can accommodate easily.
Best direct drive kit in my opinion, with the 20nm motor :)
Awesome review! I can’t want until you get you’re hands on a Fanatec direct drive 2 or the PlayStation Edition Fanatec DD setup. DD1 or the ps4 version.
Me too as I've pre ordered one and I'll be looking forward to see what he thinks.
I tried the DD1 and like it, even it was with ACC 0.1.
Yeah, I'm waiting to hear his review before I commit to the DD2. I have fanatec everything else though so it's kinda designed for people like me.
TheStigmacher I'll be very impressed if it's holding torque is actually 18Nm, if I'm not mistaken that's the highest holding torque for a sim wheel, When it comes to detail Fanatec should know what they're doing and I trust them, 5 years warranty on top with a sleek design and I'm sold.
@@azzifyy5988You've got it right. This is the largest commercial effort to bridge the DIY and consumer gap. It's going to have all the convenience of a consumer wheel with dead-on precision in the electronics unit they've been working on for years now. That's the biggest part honestly, transmitting the power from the motor, smoothing it, then receiving it on the end in the software. Having complete control of that process will be powerful, like an Apple computer. That said, don't underestimate the power of the open source community. I think both will end up being very similar with Fanatec winning simply because they will always have the time and resources.
great video, i can't wait for see you testing the new fanatec DD.
Soon!
Awesome review. Now I want the 30nm version.
Awesome review.👍
Really great review!
Great review, but it seems the sound is about a second ahead of the video. I love the casing on that controller box & the design on the mounting brackets.
Great review , as usual .
Just a note about this review. Barry seems to think the 18Nm takes less power than the 20Nm Mige, but that's not the case at all. the 18Nm 130ST-M06025 is less efficient than the 20Nm Mige. It takes as much power as the 30Nm mige to run which is why it requires the same PSU and Ioni Pro HC as the 30Nm motor. It's just a less efficient motor.
Good point. I checked and the 18Nm is rated at 6A, with the 20Nm rated at 4.5A. But the 30Nm is rated at 9.5A!
@@simracinggarage3026 yup, and thats for nominal torque, for peak it's 18 amps vs 19 amps for the 18Nm vs 30Nm
Beau matériel, superbement fini! Merci pour cet essai.
Another Fantastic Review Barry and Wow the Stainless work and look is amazing ! Been giving that Sequentail shifter a workout over Xmas Barry ?
Yep!
I bought an F1S steering wheel from Augury and was blown away by its quality (especially at this price point). If someone is looking for a nice formula/GT wheel then take a look in their shop. Compared to this the Formula and McLaren rims from Fanatec are a joke.
@@karoo_bushman6880 I would say higher end. An Ascher Racing button box feels better. But here you'll get a complete wheel for less money. The buttons are a little bit wobbly, shifters are ok (but not magnetic), the encoders are awesome, the display and its software are top notch and the wheel feels fantastic in my hands. I've mounted it with a Q1R to a Kollmorgen motor and it's rock solid.
The old Fanatec Formula rim is shaped more like a V and it's way to small for my taste, my wrists started to hurt after playing a while because it's not very ergonomic. And the new F1 wheel from Fanatec still has this same shape.
You'll get what you've paid for with the F1S. Would definitly buy it again. Their AkiraGP wheel is on my wishlist for next christmas. :-)
I see in their website they are calling it an OSW, but I’ve talked to one of the original people who developed the actual OSW, and none of these kits are actually “OSW”.
OSW really refers to the original DIY stuff that you had to build from scratch. It is pretty much deprecated as the stuff used in those kits is pretty much obsolete at this point.
OSW is just a moniker that has stuck with any DD unit since those days. (Not that it really matters tho).
Great review As always Barry.
Another great review form the SRG. I am in the process of ordering the 30 Nm version, but that is beyond the point here, as my question relates to mapping of buttons on the different wheels you are using. When you change steering wheels with different button plates, will you have to remap the buttons - or does the software recognise the different wheels you are using?
I ask because together with the DD I will have two different wheels that I will use with the servo for my racing I iRacing and RaceRoom,, and it would be great to be able to swap without having to remap the different buttons and shifters every time.
Already looking forward to your next video👍
Late for this video, but Great review Barry! And right in time; i'm shopping to upgrade from my T300. Have you taken a look at their upcoming Pedals as well? They look incredible.
It would be interesting to hear what you think about the 30Nm motor you have just acquired. Seems like you have been able to try the whole gamut of dd wheels now.
How would you compare it to the Accuforce V2? I'm trying to decide between these systems at the moment, and the OSW is clearly more expensive, by quite a margin, but it may be a lot better than the accuforce so it is worth looking into it I guess? Can you share something? Thank you from Uruguay!
If cost is your top priority, then the Accuforce V2 is a no brainer I think. The OSW systems are more versatile and the Mige servo motors that come with them have an overall better feel to them than the AF's stepper motor. Only real way to know what you prefer would be to try both systems.
@@simracinggarage3026 Thanks a lot! I guess I will give the accuforce a go and see what I think. Love your channel btw, grest job you do for the community!
Simuhack do the same QR for €25, and u buy clamp separately for about £5
great video Barry. after all the testing you have done on direct drive wheels, including this one, do you still always want to go back to your Leo Bodnar? i ask this as i too have sim steering V2 and i can’t believe the price of this setup. it’s 3 x cheaper than leo bodnar in UK. and reflection on the difference between them? thanks in advance
Yeah, still running the SS2 with the 54G. There's just something about that system that keeps me coming back. Hard to explain, but I am running the "magic sauce" FW from Pro-Sim. And of course not everyone would feel the same way.
Sim Racing Garage thanks Barry.
Hi Barry. Thank you for another well detailed product video review . I noticed you have a Lacroix eboard. I would very much like to see a review of it from you. Can this be done? Thanks again for sharing your passion in sim racing
Just not enough time in the day. Pretty busy with Sim Stuff.
Thanks for the great review. But which should I buy now, 18Nm 20Nm or 30Nm?
Only way to know for sure it to test them yourself. I don't like to recommend one motor over the others. Just because I like the 30Nm certainly doesn't mean you, or anyone else will. A lot of folks seem to like the 20Nm. Once you have an OSW controller box and set of cables, you can test other Mige motors at will. As long as they have a Simucube compatible encoder on them.
Hy Barry i wanna know if Is too much dirference between this and accuforce talking about the behavior of the wheel
another awesome review. What is your opinion on the software? Looks like Simucube is the software for this wheel?
SimuCube FW is constantly being tweaked and improved. In this video I am running the 11.2 beta. No issues.
Hey Barry, could you make exclusive video comparison between all the top direct drive wheels. I need to know since I’m running the Leo bodner. Nice setup man 🤙🏽
Bruh, if you're using the Bodnar you have the best commercial wheel. Every direct drive wheel on the market has aspired to the Bodnar.
Scott thanks
FIrst? My life is complete! :D - Great review as always, Barry!
I bought this kit before Xmas. I can confirm, its outstanding. My only gripe is the mounting bracket i was sent doesnt have a cutout section on both sides (mine is only on the left )to orientate the motor plugs on the left or right depending on your setup. If youre looking for good rims to pair with this, go to www.simracingcoach.com/en/ ..
@Sim Racing Garage for those who still want to do a DIY OSW what case do you recommend for the control box (IONI, Simucube board, PSU)? Online stores has stopped selling the control box by itself when SImucube 2 was introduced. Thanks
I know some guys were using this one. www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mini-itx/elite110a/
@@simracinggarage3026 I think that one is discontinued. I don't see any online stores selling it. Do you have any other recommendations?
Why is the holding Nm so much lower than the peak Nm on these?
The 30nm osw is the same right? Just higher torque
Hey Barry,
I’ve been debating this vs simracingbay 20nm. With the SRB setup there is a fanatec QR piece they include then just add on the SRM adapter for fanatec wheels.
Given I already have a collection of fanatec wheels, I can’t seem to figure out what is needed to make them work on the augury setup, can you advise?
Thanks.
To make your Fanatec wheels work with any DD setup you will need to convert each wheel to USB. SRM has a kit that let's you retain the Fanatec wheel side QR. I don't think most who convert use that kit. They opt for the SRM USB conversion kit that includes a wheel side adapter that has 70mm and 50.8mm hole patterns for mounting you choice of QR system. That is the way I converted my Fanatec wheels. I then use the awesome Q1R QR system to mount all my wheels including the Fanatecs. If you want to keep the Fanatec QR system and use the Augury OSW, just buy the Fanatec adapter from SRBay and mount that to the motor.
Sim Racing Garage thanks! Yeah, the only issue is SRBay will not sell their motor side adapter separate from a OSW order which makes things difficult.
I really want to give augury a try but without that SRB adapter it makes things expensive converting each wheel individually.
Have to put some serious thought into this and maybe just go with the SRB DD package or Augury and sell off all of my fanatec rims and move over
Yeah it's a tough call.
Barry, do you have a patron account set up so people can offset some costs and donate to you at times?
No Patreon yet. But I do have a link on my website for Paypal donations. simracinggarage.com
Could you test this again with a 24v psu instead ?
For the amount of power the FFB scene now has available (thanks to DD drive becoming much more common), we need the actual FFB technology to evolve. FFB technology is too far behind what the capability of DD drive motors can achieve and therefore there is often unrealistic forces and general wheel behaviour in the way the forces are output.
I've driven with 17 Nm (I own a large Mige Simucube OSW) and it produces certain outputs and behaviors that are wayyyyy stronger than real life, let alone 20, 25, 30, or 40 Nm. FFB in real life is simply reactive, it's not active, this alone makes comparing Nm to real life simply wrong because the forces and behaviour are happening in a completely different way to real life even though an "on paper" number like Nm might match on average or at a given moment.
Saying a DD wheel has, for eg., 20 Nm which matches the real car being driven is like saying a sim/game must automatically be realistic and have great physics because a car in real life can't drive through a certain corner faster than a certain speed and that same car in-game also can't drive through the same corner faster than that same speed....or...a car in real life brakes at x meters for a certain corner and so does the car in-game for the same corner. It's massively over-simplifying things.
Just to begin with, the way FFB and FFB motor/firmware technology works in general is on it's own fundamentally completely opposite to real life. In real life, "FFB" is simply reactive while game-FFB is active. Just that alone means often completely different FFB behaviour.
I was obsessed with DD drive inertia and especially Nm numbers for over 6 months while researching a DD wheel to buy. Trust me, don't pay much attention to it. We're not driving a real car or something which even simulates a real car in the same way a real car works but rather something that is trying to simulate a real car while using a completely different fundamental concept to simulate it. 99.9% of people will be way more than happy with 15 or 20 Nm.
Agreed. This is completely ridiculous. Not even a 2T shifter kart without any assistance can produce those forces. It seems a stupid marketing race to see who will sell the wheel that is going to brake your arms. 15 nM is already more than any racing car or kart can produce.
@Jorge I have heard that Group C cars hit 30nm. I don’t know if it’s true.
@@lebojay Yes but can't really compare to real-life. The way real-life "FFB" is "output" and behaves is on an entirely different fundamental concept. Torque-based + passive/reactive system + tons of weight/inertia (compared to sims) VS velocity and/or position based + active system + almost 0 inertia (besides software filter inertia). They're completely different concepts of outputting and controlling the power and how it behaves. It's part of the reason why almost every real-life driver who tries a DD wheel at supposed real-life Nm settings says the FFB is way too high as-well as aggressive. It's a completely different behaviour regardless of the Nm on paper.
@Spinelli I don’t understand. You know things I don’t know. I’m OK with that. 😎
@@Spinelli__ Hi Spinelli,
I've been following your posts for years, I've gathered you've got some real open wheel action under your belt, so I would immensely appreciate if you could clarify a couple of things and help me with my future purchase:
My financial situation is, mildly put, not ideal.
But my passion is strong and I wanna buy something that would last me forever.
I'm very much aware that the FFB tech is fundamentally flawed, but what motor would you recommend for the most realistic feeling within the current FFB capabilities?
I'm solely interested in emulating a late 90's CART steering feel, that's the only thing I drive. The emphasis is on the "emulation", I know that it will never be a 1:1 experience.
Would a let's say Mige 110ST-M06030 with 18nm Peak give me a somewhat natural feel, or should I go with the Large Mige because of the natural inertia of the motor?
Long story short, could you please take a look at the video below (the first 5 minutes) and tell me what gear should I buy in order to partially replicate the forces seen in the footage?
ruclips.net/video/-eIGQpwcgIo/видео.html&ab_channel=TheIndySnake
I know that I'm maybe asking too much, but if you could thoroughly analyze the video and give me your honest opinion about the subject, I would appreciate it so much!
Thanks mate, another great video, i am missing the keyway for my OSW, where can i get one from?
There are few online venders selling Machine Keys. Need to measure your keyway for the appropriate size. Or, you might be able to source one from Mige themselves.
To add more inertia you could theoretically just add more weight and inertia to the wheel itself? Like some spacer plate that simply slows down the wheel a bit?
Not really. Due to the very old and dated FFB technology game/sim developers as well as FFB wheel makers continue using, what will happen is the FFB motor will just add more power/force to make up for the extra weight of a heavier wheel (unless you were previously maxing out the capability of the motor with the lighter wheel). When games/sims and FFB wheels start simulating more of a real life type of FFB which is reactive, not active, then what you're thinking would work as it would in a real car.
Your thinking is exactly what I wanted to do too. I mounted a Fanatec BMW GT2 wheel to my OSW which is one of the heaviest wheels you can buy in order to try and make the FFB more realistic while still keeping strength. Well, the FFB was not anymore less harsh than my previous lighter wheel because the motor just adds more power/force in order to move the heavier wheel with the same speed or acceleration (or as close as possible) as the lighter wheel.
For the amount of power the FFB scene now has available (thanks to DD drive becoming much more common), we need the actual FFB technology to evolve. FFB technology is too far behind what the capability of DD drive motors can achieve and therefore there is often unrealistic forces and general wheel behaviour in the way the forces are output.
It's a little annoying and very simple-minded when all people talk about is Nm this, Nm that. I've driven with 17 Nm (I own a large Mige Simucube OSW) and it produces certain outputs and behaviors that are wayyyyy stronger than real life, let alone 20, 25, 30, or 40 Nm. FFB in real life is simply reactive, it's not active, this alone makes comparing Nm to real life simply wrong because the forces and behaviour are happening in a completely different way to real life even though an "on paper" number like Nm might match on average or a given moment.
@@Spinelli__ I mean technically you could add more and more inertia so that you do overpower the wheel? It just might be quite a lot. Same thing with damping. I'm not actually even sure if that is worth the effort as you may get unrealistic results such as overshoot or lower speed oscillations. Maybe the issue is not ffb but just the software between the wheel and the sim?
@@erwinlommer197 I have no idea what the issue is but I think the fantastic power, speed, and acceleration of DD wheels is amazingly awesome but also definitely exposes quite a bit of unwanted behaviour that I never knew existed in FFB before moving to a DD wheel.
Regarding the wheel's inertia setting, I have a feeling I probably add a more relative amount of inertia (through the settings) compared to most others but, you're correct, when you add too much you start getting other weird results.
Regarding the wheel's damping settings, it does help somewhat but the problem with damping is it just overall kills all FFB detail. It's just a sort of blanket setting.
A few FFB gurus told me that in an ideal scenario, our FFB would be based on actual torque signals. Currently it's based on speed and/or acceleration sensing in combination with position sensing. When FFB software/hardware/firmware moves to a truly torque-based system rather than position based, supposedly that will be the next big step in realism.
I even lowered the wheel down to a fairly lowly 7-ish Nm through the amperage limitation settings to compare to my Fanatec CSW v2.0 which is apparently about 7.3 Nm. While the overall power of the DD wheel was then very low, there were still often times were there seemed to be an over-persistent amount of high powered forces coming through especially with regards to the "centering spring" (I think this is known as S.A.T.). That's another thing that is way too aggressive and wrist-bending in DD wheels, the S.A.T. It doesn't matter what game you play. The only way to calm this down is to add a bunch of damping but, again, that just kills overall FFB across the board so it's a very non-ideal compromise.
Hi,could you tell me,whether it is possible to mount a Nardi Kallista steering wheel to this DD OSW kit?
Nardi has a 73.6mm PCD. You will need an adapter that converts to 70mm PCD. There are many available I think. A quick search came up with this: www.amazon.com/Flashpower-0-5-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Conversion-Spacer-Polished/dp/B072FD477P
Thanks a lot for your answer.
BTW video title says "18nm". It means 18 nanometer. I think it should be 18Nm (Newton meter)
Good to know and I thought it looks slightly larger than 18 nanometer:)
Duly noted and corrected.
Anyone know how long they take to ship to the US?
Just me or is the audio delayed ?
@Astrophobia (one year later) it’s just you 😉
barry would be the coolest dad outside of tony hawk. will u adopt me please?
im 45 btw.