How to Repair Historic Siding

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  • Опубликовано: 12 янв 2025

Комментарии •

  • @donramsburg1912
    @donramsburg1912 4 года назад +12

    Im sure your work speaks to the people who appreciate historic restoration and attention to detail, anytime i see someone butcher an antique it makes me puke.. In a world where faster and cheaper is better, i hope your good work shines through and you find the success you absolutely seem to deserve!

  • @noconsentgiven
    @noconsentgiven Год назад

    Thank you sir👍❤️!

  • @scrfirefighter
    @scrfirefighter 6 лет назад +2

    Real pro. Great job.

  • @ray_banz5899
    @ray_banz5899 4 года назад +1

    I thought I was the only one still using the old senco trim guns! If it ain’t broke don’t fix it👍🏼

  • @laventillelady9733
    @laventillelady9733 Год назад

    It looks like a lot of water damage under the cladding. What was the approach to ensure there isn't mold, framing damage, termite damage etc under the exposed areas? DId you have to add flashing?

  • @stanleyhewell7556
    @stanleyhewell7556 5 лет назад

    If I want to just fix a small split down the middle of one of the boards, what's the best product to use? I was thinking PL8x or Sikabond, or should I use epoxy or caulk? Or is caulk too weak?

  • @oldcreekhomes
    @oldcreekhomes 4 года назад

    What about waterproofing? I would have thought you need to take down the siding, add new sheeting, tyvek wrap it and then reinstall the siding. What are your thoughts on this??

    • @user27278
      @user27278 4 года назад +1

      You can if you want

    • @ianrowell2183
      @ianrowell2183 4 года назад +3

      You’d have to remove all the siding down. Just caulk your seams good and run with it.

    • @CR-zu3mb
      @CR-zu3mb 2 года назад +5

      On a balloon framed home from early 1900s. Nah. Let it breathe how it was designed. Properly “modernizing” a home this old with vapor barriers and insulation really is a big undertaking and has to be done correctly or you’ll cause more harm than good.

    • @cocoablini
      @cocoablini 2 года назад +1

      @@CR-zu3mb I "think" the tyvek would create too tight of a seal and black mold?

    • @davefreeman1499
      @davefreeman1499 2 года назад

      @@cocoablini No tyvek is supposed to breath air and block water.

  • @hannadeshler1426
    @hannadeshler1426 2 года назад

    What filter is in mask?

  • @andyvitale6071
    @andyvitale6071 2 года назад

    I would have lightly wire wheeled the face to more mimic the face of the siding.

    • @leeroychile
      @leeroychile 7 месяцев назад

      Is the idea there that it would bring out the woodgrain texture? I noticed that seemed to be missing.

  • @mikeymo4
    @mikeymo4 4 года назад +1

    siding should butt against the trim. trim shouldn't ever be put on top of the siding. that's horrible design!

    • @andrewgarratt5191
      @andrewgarratt5191 3 года назад +14

      Not back in the day….
      At the time trim over was far superior as the but joints didn’t have to be tight, and there was no caulk.
      Furthermore when the boards try to curl/“run away” from the house they do so mostly on the ends.
      Nails were expensive…especially round or what was called “wire nails” at the time.
      Saying “Horrible design” about a house that’s over 100 years old is almost comical in a world full of “McMansions” that are condemned and torn down in 20 years.
      I read a book on how to build your own home from 1902.
      This is exactly how it dealt with the trim as it wasn’t uncommon to just stack 7 runs on a bench and cut them at the same time…hand saw, hot sun;
      “shit and get.”