I am a home inspector and I have used the knowledge you have taught me to find problems on a roof. I hope you are getting some sort of a reward for all the work that goes into making the videos.
Don't usually comment on videos that are outside my interests but this is my 2nd comment here. Just wanted to say that a trait of a good teacher is how they can make any subject interesting. Why anyone would downvote someone trying to share their knowledge is a mystery to me.
Thanks for the education. Glad you are taking time out for being dad and hubby. Especially for the occasions in life. Celebrate when they come each time as those are memories to share.
Brian - that was a great roof for the educational explanations you offered. Pipe boots too high, too low, and just right with respect to bottom flashing and shingles. And that dead spot with the cricket needing to be built out some more. And all on the same roof. A little luck involved I guess, but it was a great roof for demonstrating those points.
Simple rule, when it comes to pipe boots and vents you keep shingling up until the exposure is under the flashing. Or will be under the flashing once you put them on.
ur channel is very helpful and enjoyable. u made me confident installing a sun tunnel myself and I have a blast with the finished installation. always be learninf
Ideally you want a piece of ice and water overlapping the boot above and adhered to the sheathing and then covered with underlayment. Relying on shingles to flash roof penetrations is done most of the time but it can still leak. There's no reason to adjust rows due to roof penetration locations, it's stupid to even suggest that.
I'm ignorant of this profession. As a homeowner, if in a pinch, would it be detrimental to run a bead of sealant on the perimeter of the cut shingles? I wouldn't consider this a long-term solution, but maybe a Band-Aid in anticipation of a weekend of heavy rain.
I solved the boot problem by putting 2 on. I put one into the roof shingles properly and then I just put the second one on after the roof was done and pushed it down until it was an inch or two above the roof. Keeps the sun off the real one and keeps it from baking in the sun. I also only have one roof penetration.
Those boots are fine if you specifically tell the homeowner that they would need to be replaced in so many years, but at that time you could get a yearly maintenance check contract done up just to check on things
I usually run one or two under. Depends on where the shingle rows land. But i always wrap it in peel and stick. I sometimes add a "dummy" shingle to cover the sides of the flange. Which I tuck under the peel and stick and cut a 45 going away from the fitting put my nails under the peel and stick and have it run just shy of the reveal line. And press in the peel and stick pretty well aswell. Most times i usually take extra attention to it when im working with higher end shingles, like presidential/armourshake. When the tooths dont exactly land on the edges of the flashing having one side have a tooth and the other without. Doesnt affect the water flow at all but most importantly it makes it look great and it makes it so you don't need any fastners to hold the bottom half of the flange down.
I like your priorities -- "husband and Dad". MOST important!!!!!
I am a home inspector and I have used the knowledge you have taught me to find problems on a roof. I hope you are getting some sort of a reward for all the work that goes into making the videos.
Don't usually comment on videos that are outside my interests but this is my 2nd comment here. Just wanted to say that a trait of a good teacher is how they can make any subject interesting. Why anyone would downvote someone trying to share their knowledge is a mystery to me.
Thanks for the education. Glad you are taking time out for being dad and hubby. Especially for the occasions in life. Celebrate when they come each time as those are memories to share.
Brian - that was a great roof for the educational explanations you offered. Pipe boots too high, too low, and just right with respect to bottom flashing and shingles. And that dead spot with the cricket needing to be built out some more. And all on the same roof. A little luck involved I guess, but it was a great roof for demonstrating those points.
Simple rule, when it comes to pipe boots and vents you keep shingling up until the exposure is under the flashing. Or will be under the flashing once you put them on.
Great video glad you mentioned the correct way to do it!
ur channel is very helpful and enjoyable. u made me confident installing a sun tunnel myself and I have a blast with the finished installation. always be learninf
Love your channel! Always informative and helpful for my team
Good advice
Great content! And it's your channel and your life : you don't have to apologize ;-)
Ideally you want a piece of ice and water overlapping the boot above and adhered to the sheathing and then covered with underlayment. Relying on shingles to flash roof penetrations is done most of the time but it can still leak. There's no reason to adjust rows due to roof penetration locations, it's stupid to even suggest that.
Those look like CertainTeed shangles. Glorified 3 tab
Good work caveman 💪💪you don't need to say sorry to youtubers lol your a grown ass man with a family. But I do like the videos lol
Great channel
Great info 👍
You are right, I noticed that before you even mentioned it, amazing the pseudo roofers that are out there.
I'm ignorant of this profession. As a homeowner, if in a pinch, would it be detrimental to run a bead of sealant on the perimeter of the cut shingles? I wouldn't consider this a long-term solution, but maybe a Band-Aid in anticipation of a weekend of heavy rain.
No Brian, lead only. Lifetime product. Those boots deteriorates and cracks.
I solved the boot problem by putting 2 on. I put one into the roof shingles properly and then I just put the second one on after the roof was done and pushed it down until it was an inch or two above the roof. Keeps the sun off the real one and keeps it from baking in the sun. I also only have one roof penetration.
Those boots are fine if you specifically tell the homeowner that they would need to be replaced in so many years, but at that time you could get a yearly maintenance check contract done up just to check on things
NO lead is used on tile roofs only
why you go around any pipe any hole till the top of the shingle goes around the top of the hole
Would you like to sample a pipe flashing that lasts the life of the roof? Reach out to @LifetimeTool for an Ultimate Pipe Flashing
I usually run one or two under. Depends on where the shingle rows land. But i always wrap it in peel and stick.
I sometimes add a "dummy" shingle to cover the sides of the flange. Which I tuck under the peel and stick and cut a 45 going away from the fitting put my nails under the peel and stick and have it run just shy of the reveal line. And press in the peel and stick pretty well aswell.
Most times i usually take extra attention to it when im working with higher end shingles, like presidential/armourshake. When the tooths dont exactly land on the edges of the flashing having one side have a tooth and the other without.
Doesnt affect the water flow at all but most importantly it makes it look great and it makes it so you don't need any fastners to hold the bottom half of the flange down.