You stated in this video how easy it is to use the heel of your hand to install the seal in the oil pump off the car, but it was obvious later that you fought to get the seal onto the crank. The DIY person would have fits dealing with that. In the video you linked here you admitted that it is better to install the seal *after* the pump is installed, and having the right tool or something improvised is the way to go.
Please don't ever stop doing Volvo V70 D5 maintenance videos. I have just bough a V70 P2 Update D5 Auto with a Euro-3 engine (a unicorn, apparently) and your guidance in these videos is invaluable.
This fixed 90 percent of my leak, thank you! I later had to replace the vvt hubs and cam seals. Thank you sir ! Also folks clean that oil trap out and unclog your pcv valve !
Yep, all these seals end up failing due to a blocked PCV system. Upside is it's usually these seals that fail and not the rear main seal. I had to replace these and the cam seals, mine was mostly leaking from the cam seals but if you are going through the trouble to do them you might as well do these too while you are in there. Bought my 05 XC90 2.5T and the PCV system was so plugged I had to drop the oil pan to clean it all out.
I started with replacing my cvvt hubs firstly because the exhaust hub had excessive play and was leaking but it continued to leak from crank, Just did this oil pump and crank repair and it has cured all my oil leak ! Thanks
Thank you for the video I am doing this job now at the shop. Pretty simple and straight forward. Be aware though for anyone who is diying this job. Pay close attention when you're using the harmonic balancer puller as it can and will knock the crank out of time with the mark on the pump. I happened to notice this and had to backup the crank back in time before finishing pulling the balancer. I also went a step further and marked the crankshaft with a paint market in a straight line down so when reinstalling its lined up properly 👍.
No need to mark the crankshaft as the pulley is keyed and refits in one position only. You just make sure the dedicated mark on the pulley lines up with the dedicated mark on the oil pump housing before fitting the belt and again after manually turning the engine.
@@sirobb lol thank you, that made me super nervous. Rather be safe then sorry. Yes I used a big pair of pliers to line the pump up with the balancer/timing gear, knocked it out a few notches so good thing I double and triple check stuff 👍
@@sirobb I'm a flat rate tech at a 4 man shop over here in Youngstown ohio. I'm very cautious about what I do especially with timing. I ruined a f150 90k 5.4 motor because of a cam kicking out on me. Ruined all pistons and valves and had to get a scrap yard motor. So I figured it would be informative for someone attempting this job with no shop experience as I can see someone knocking the crank out of time remove the balancer and then ruining the motor because they didn't realize the crank turned from the original timing mark. Pain in the ass removing that oil pump 😂. Thank you for the video appreciate it.
Hello mate, thank you so so much for this video. I was panicking that the old car would need open heart surgery,and I would need open wallet surgery, but I'm relieved after watching this. Thank you again👍👍👍👍👍👍
thanks for the video! I thought my crank seal was leaking but never had oil on my timing belt and after seeing this I'm almost positive its that oil pump o-ring. Thankfully this task doesn't seem horribly difficult
Fair Play Si, appreciate the effort you go to, to make your vids. I never have the fortitude to start arsing around with camera shots of what I'm doing, nevermind breaking away from the task to explain. You're doing a fine job sir and I applaud your efforts [and the increased time it takes you to not only fix, but document] +1 from me!
You're the Man, Si. But I've found if you are DIY'er that it is easier just to buy the special tools. You are already saving so money by DIY'ing that you can spend some if it making your life easier. It also saves time on the removal/install. You can also then sell the part used if you don't need it again. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the video, going to have to do this soon since an oil leak is developing behind the crank pulley on my S60 :( Timing belt is due though, so I can tackle that job at the same time. I hope my cam seals are still OK though..
Fun fact... on seals and rubber bits I soak or spray with transmission fluid... It's a better rubber conditioner and protector than engine oil... usually once a month I get under my car and engine bay/ trans area and spray trans oil over all exposed rubber bits... make sure you let trans oil air dry before driving around, usually about 3 plus hours
Tip for anyone trying to get the seal on! Get a cap off of a small wd40 can, or like i used a cap off a CRC zinc spray can. Modifiy it so it goes over the crank and it has perfect circumference to get over the step, lube it up and it will be very easy to press on
If you don't have the "VOLVO SPECIAL TOOLS" install the gasket in the block like the video shows and install pump without the front seal and the pump will go on easier, bolt down and install outter seal. I'm in the process of doing one now and will make a video showing that way. I made 3 special volvo tools for $15 or less.
It seems to me that your way is better. Pressing the seal in with your hand may seem like a real time saver while the oil pump is out, but fighting that step like in the video cancels out any advantage. I would just buy the tool, or make something.
My S60R had a crankshaft oil leak when I bought it. It cleared itself up after a few hundred km's. Turns out the car was sitting around for months without being driven before I bought it.
Very useful! I had a fuel filter start leaking when I changed it it was in horrible condition and oil started leaking from that side around the same time I'm assuming that this is what it is
My LT35 SDI has the same engine as this (IIRC) and I will be doing this job very soon. Luckily for me, the engine in the van is longitudinal but I will have to remove the radiator and van front end...I will be looking to do the timing belt whilst in there...so maybe I'm doing the timing belt and the crank seal is secondary?? Thanks for sharing and your explanations are top notch....
Malcolm Young Thanks for the comment. Your engine isn't the same as the one in the video but I would imagine a similar seal arrangement will be present.
Hi Simon, your videos have been a great help for me. Thanks. We haven't heard from you in months, is the Volvo just running smooth with no trouble or have you sold it? Regards Ulrik (DK)
Hi @SiRobb I have had a look at a V8 Xc90 with 130000 miles. There was a little oil smoke on the right side (looking from front at the engine), got less after 20 miles ride - nearly vanished but also slight whining noise and every few seconds like the engine aspirates. I made a video and could send. Would be great help to know if I should buy or not. All the best, Andre
I can't offer important advice based on remote evidence unfortunately. You have seen the car in person and still you're unsure so I would pay someone knowledgeable local to you to take a look.
I have an oil leak just over the heat exchanger on which the oil filter is screwed on. All these expert mechanics tighten the filter so hard that you need dynamite to get it loose again. VW Multivan with the ACV engine.
I know it's been awhile, but could you add the part numbers or the seal kit number to the description? And thank you so much for the walk-though, tremendous help.
From a 2008 Volvo C30 2.4L, L5 B5244S4 Timing belt tensioner and idler 24Nm Oil pump housing bolts 10Nm Water pump 10Nm Crank Pulley 25NM + 60º Accessory belt tensioner 24Nm Engine mount to frame 90Nm Engine mount to block 133Nm VVT gear center bolt 120Nm VVT gear bolt plug 35Nm
Good video. My 2002 S60 2.0t has just sprung an oil leak and it makes a kinda whirring sound when started from cold. Goes away after a while . Also just had a message on the dash appear saying no oil pressure. I'm guessing the two are related. And I'm guessing this is the problem. How long would this take a mechanic to do?
Hi SiRobb, Great videos. I have an Australian 2008 Volvo XC90 D5 2.4 Diesel with around 170,000 Kms which we have owned since new. We currently have a heater that doesn’t work and with ambient temps getting down to -6, it’s not so good for the family. Wondering if you have any ideas re a likely cause. The techs have shown me the inside of the EGR ? Ducting and it has about a 4 or 5 mil black crud build up and a coked up internal valve of some sort which they think is asscociated with an internal oil leak. It doesn’t seem to use much oil but it only gets driven about 50 Kms per day. They have changed the thermostat, which while 10 years old and pretty filthy, showed no obvious issue. They have also replaced the water/ coolant pump with no improvement. Do you think they should take off the injector manifold and investigate for stuck valves etc. They have check the hoses in and out of the firewall for continuity and that seems fine with an external ( workshop ) supply but the engine itself doesn’t seem to be allowing hot coolant into the cabin area. We spent 2 years in a hot climate where the heater wasn’t used at all so wondering if something could be seized up somewhere. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated if you have encountered this sort of thing before or indeed if you have already covered the issue in a previous video. Thanks again. Cheers, Jeff oceanair69nz@gmail.com
Did you install a new timing belt? I've read online that oil can contaminate the rubber belt and cause it to fail prematurely, but the independent Volvo shop I went to did not replace the timing belt when they changed the leaking front cam seal on my 2002 V70 XC.
Great video, very informative! Do you know if the 2.4 liter gas engine is set up in the same or similar way? Could I use this video for a 2002 Volvo v70 xc? Thanks so much, forgive my ignorance!
@@sirobb Thank you for all your instructive video ! I think I have the same issue on my 2008 P3 (D5 auto) ; do you know if procedure and parts are the same ? Thx again !
Thanks for the video. Looks like I have the same issue with my 2005 D5. out of interest do you know what puller you used for the crank pulley? I need to order one!. Also what mileage did the car have when this problem started. I'm on 280k miles and starting to think I've been real lucky so far as most of the car is still original!
Good vid SiRob. Can you estimate how much time it will take to do this? on a 07 2.5Turbo. I have a lift and all the tools except for a proper seal installer tool. The 2 hours seem a bit low. I work very carefully and clean up everything like new. My leak isn't nearly as severe as yours
It depends if you've had the belts off before. If it's your first time, allow up to 4 hours or so. It's not an especially difficult job nor is it a job you want to rush or have a strict time limit for.
Thanks for your video! I replaced the seals and gasket. When Idle no leaks, when accelerating, leaks a whole bunch (all 4-5 quarts in 30--40 miles) any ideas?
Hi, another great video. Quick question, I intend to remove the oil pump, replace the gasket and seals. Could I not just install the new crankshaft seal once the pumps back in, as if I’d never removed it? Rather than having to manufacture the sleeve type affair to try to get it to slip over? Many thanks.
Unfortunately, regardless of which order you do it in, at some point, the new seal will have to pass over the step on the crankshaft and that will require either the correct tool or some form of improvisation.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Would a suitable long socket/tube with enough pressure applied be appropriate or would it need a more creative solution to press it in once the cooler had been reinstalled?
Anything of the same diameter to the wide part of the crankshaft is fine. Once past the ridge, the final pressing in of the seal by hand is straightforward.
I have had the same problem but even installing a new seal the proper way with a tool it still seems to be leaking must it be like a origanil seal or close to oem spec
I'm wondering about this procedure, did it work and stop the oil leaks. My wife's 02 S60 seems to be doing on the same spot as yours and it looses medium amount of oil over a course of a week, engine still has oil but it leaves a mess and make my wife worry which in turn, she looks at me to fix.
It stopped the leak on the car in this video so it depends on whether the leak on your wife's car is caused by the same thing. Cleaning up the area first makes it much easier to spot where a leak is coming from.
@@sirobb thanks for the reply, I can try cleaning around the area but I think that would be an accomplishment in itself. Thank you for the feedback, I will try some things first then I will consider doing it to her car.. it leaks off the passenger front side as well that why I suspect it.
Hi Simon great video as always mate. I have a 2007 V70 was wanting to change gearbox oil but few people advised against it. I feel they're wrong, would you say my mileage is too high to change gearbox oil as I don't think it's been done before it's covered 128k 23k by me car seems to have had an easy life hasn't been driven or treated harshly. Cheers for any advice. Keep the vids coming pal👍🏻
I heard about a rubber core plag behind the engine that can pop up. You have an idea about at how many miles can this happen,and if in facelift cars equipped with old euro 3 d5 can this happen
Ouch, that's an unusual failure. I hope the fix goes well. Also watch my short Seal Installation Tool Video here. ruclips.net/video/JG_kb10NFG0/видео.html
Hello Simon, i just check my injectors and I am not happy with what i found. injector no. 2 give me just a little fuel injector no. 4 give me a lot of fuel ( in just one min like 200ml). can you make a video how to fix this problem, please? Thanks for your time!
Lucian Octavian Simion If it leaks more than 40ml in a minute, the only fix is to replace the injector. I've already done several injector videos showing how to do a change properly so look through my list of videos.
Great video! I've followed the steps outlined but am stuck. I removed the crankshaft seal but the oil pump will not come out. Ive tried prying with a screwdriver but it only rotates but will not come off Any ideas anyone? Thanks in advance!
It's a *very* close fit between the oil pump and housing and whilst you can lever the lugs a little bit, the pump must eventually come out straight. Levering on one point too much will skew and jam the pump against the housing. If all 4 bolts have been removed, there's nothing holding in the pump other than the close fit, the pump seal and maybe some grime.
@@sirobb Thanks so much. I'll try using vice grips on each side then and see if I can convince it to help me out. Fantastic video and support for Volvo owners!
@@Kingdmctzn The outer seal sits in a groove and the paper gasket is held flush against the engine block and prevented from moving with specific cut outs.
ok I have a 2001 V70XC cross country that is really pissing oil out, a stream running down right next to the crankshaft pulley on the front side(of vehicle) havent dug too deep as yet but was wondering if after removing the hamonic balancer and covers etc it is ok to start the engine and run it briefly to really pinpoint the leak, have plenty of oil in engine and thinking of at idle only
@@sirobb before you replied to the above and i'd read it I went ahead and did just that, made sure all bits were clear and kept hands well back, no probs at all, the oil stream that was emerging around the crank area was from the inlet cam seal which surprised me as the inlet drive pulley was dry on the inside, having a bugger of a time locating that lower timing mark though
Hi . I have a the same problem with my Volvo v70xc. I change all the Peace's that you show in this vedio. But when I put it all back together again. There was still a mainer lick on the same side as we're the moyer lick was. What do you think is the problem from now? Should I change the hall metal piece ?? Or what is you suggest??
As iv just purchased a D5 and a first time Volvo owner I’m So glad I found your channel! Could you help with a video on the swirl flap issue? The arm on mine is just hanging loose and I’m not sure what’s the best way to reconnect it. Also it’s quite oily around the rocker cover in that area Any help would be appreciated :-)
If the crankshaft has a groove where the seal lip seats, you have too use a repair sleeve, or your wasting your time, it's going too leak, same go's for the camshafts
Are you referring to the repair sleeve sold by auto zone. I replaced the crank seal on a 05 s40 t5 and against better judgement I uses a make shift tool, it was a epic fail. Was wondering if I could use the auto zone tool and seat the current seal or start fresh with new seal & tool.
I am looking to buy a 2006 c90 and the engine doesn't sound smooth it a small amount of water mixed with oil on the oil cap. But the coolant is clear what chance it's the head gasket? Also would you work my these c90?
I have never disassembled the pump so perhaps you've put it back together incorrectly. The oil system self purges when restarting the engine so there's no special procedure.
@@sirobb Today I checked and compared the installation of the gasket, with the one in your video and I realized that I had the gasket flipped. I'll install again tomorrow and I'll let you know what happens. I really appreciate your help.
@@oscarvasquez7408 the oil level is below the oil pump, it sucks oil from a tube that goes into the oil pan the deepest part. you can se the parting line of the oil pan.
rapidvxr No idea I'm afraid. I've not known it be down for this long and they usually give warning if there's site maintenance due so it's all a bit odd.
@@sirobb I'm in Birmingham but I can travel to you, I want the PCV done and Throttle Body cleaning. Been getting MAF issues I've replaced the MAF twice with Bosch. Thanks
That's not really the kind of job I'd want to do. You'd be much better to just get Dice and Vida as you'd be able to to test, move and calibrate components to avoid replacing parts unnecessarily and Vida contains a complete workshop manual to guide you through replacing pretty much any part on the car. There's also plenty of information on various Volvo forums in relation to pcv overhaul and throttle body cleaning.
To be continued,,, My Volvo is slinging oil on my neighbors cat and she has kittens ,,not the neighbor but the cat so now they all hate me and Volvo. This is a great video but sense it is a Volvo and your being so cool about it , I'm having trouble with understanding what your explaining because your not cussing that piece of crap the way I do mine. There over engineered for NO apparent good reason . And every one of those programmers that come up with Limp Home Mode needs at least one of there legs broke so they will understand what limp home means.
Crank Seal Installation Tool Video ruclips.net/video/JG_kb10NFG0/видео.html
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do you have the parts number by any chance? I can't seem to find them anywhere
You stated in this video how easy it is to use the heel of your hand to install the seal in the oil pump off the car, but it was obvious later that you fought to get the seal onto the crank. The DIY person would have fits dealing with that. In the video you linked here you admitted that it is better to install the seal *after* the pump is installed, and having the right tool or something improvised is the way to go.
@@donmoore7785 What is your point?
Please don't ever stop doing Volvo V70 D5 maintenance videos. I have just bough a V70 P2 Update D5 Auto with a Euro-3 engine (a unicorn, apparently) and your guidance in these videos is invaluable.
Thanks again Sirobb!!!!! Thousands of people benefits from all of your videos on D5.
Your video is great. You have saved me thousands from a Volvo dealer for only $150 in OEM parts. Know my co-workers might stop calling me "slick"
This fixed 90 percent of my leak, thank you! I later had to replace the vvt hubs and cam seals. Thank you sir ! Also folks clean that oil trap out and unclog your pcv valve !
Yep, all these seals end up failing due to a blocked PCV system. Upside is it's usually these seals that fail and not the rear main seal. I had to replace these and the cam seals, mine was mostly leaking from the cam seals but if you are going through the trouble to do them you might as well do these too while you are in there. Bought my 05 XC90 2.5T and the PCV system was so plugged I had to drop the oil pan to clean it all out.
I started with replacing my cvvt hubs firstly because the exhaust hub had excessive play and was leaking but it continued to leak from crank, Just did this oil pump and crank repair and it has cured all my oil leak ! Thanks
Good work.
Thanks for this video! Having this issue currently and have never encountered this problem until now. Couldn’t have done it without you! 🙏
Thank you for the video I am doing this job now at the shop. Pretty simple and straight forward. Be aware though for anyone who is diying this job. Pay close attention when you're using the harmonic balancer puller as it can and will knock the crank out of time with the mark on the pump. I happened to notice this and had to backup the crank back in time before finishing pulling the balancer. I also went a step further and marked the crankshaft with a paint market in a straight line down so when reinstalling its lined up properly 👍.
No need to mark the crankshaft as the pulley is keyed and refits in one position only.
You just make sure the dedicated mark on the pulley lines up with the dedicated mark on the oil pump housing before fitting the belt and again after manually turning the engine.
@@sirobb lol thank you, that made me super nervous. Rather be safe then sorry. Yes I used a big pair of pliers to line the pump up with the balancer/timing gear, knocked it out a few notches so good thing I double and triple check stuff 👍
Nothing wrong with being cautious so well done.
Experience will teach you what is and isn't worth worrying about.
@@sirobb I'm a flat rate tech at a 4 man shop over here in Youngstown ohio. I'm very cautious about what I do especially with timing. I ruined a f150 90k 5.4 motor because of a cam kicking out on me. Ruined all pistons and valves and had to get a scrap yard motor. So I figured it would be informative for someone attempting this job with no shop experience as I can see someone knocking the crank out of time remove the balancer and then ruining the motor because they didn't realize the crank turned from the original timing mark. Pain in the ass removing that oil pump 😂. Thank you for the video appreciate it.
Hello mate, thank you so so much for this video. I was panicking that the old car would need open heart surgery,and I would need open wallet surgery, but I'm relieved after watching this. Thank you again👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hello your Volvo videos are so helpful you go through the jobs at a steady pace. Thanks for taking the time to help us !!!
Neil Thornley You're welcome and thank you for the comment.
thanks for the video! I thought my crank seal was leaking but never had oil on my timing belt and after seeing this I'm almost positive its that oil pump o-ring. Thankfully this task doesn't seem horribly difficult
simon, i enjoy these videos. they are detailed and have visuals i can actually see. good job and thank you for taking the time to make them
Fair Play Si, appreciate the effort you go to, to make your vids. I never have the fortitude to start arsing around with camera shots of what I'm doing, nevermind breaking away from the task to explain. You're doing a fine job sir and I applaud your efforts [and the increased time it takes you to not only fix, but document]
+1 from me!
Thanks for uploading the best video ever i saw on youtube. I'm still driving my 1999 volvo V 70 It has 485 kms on it very reliable car.❤
You're the Man, Si. But I've found if you are DIY'er that it is easier just to buy the special tools. You are already saving so money by DIY'ing that you can spend some if it making your life easier. It also saves time on the removal/install. You can also then sell the part used if you don't need it again. Thanks for the great video!
Brilliant uploads thanks for taking the time to make them.
thank you very much! This video was of great importance and learning for me!
Thanks for the video, going to have to do this soon since an oil leak is developing behind the crank pulley on my S60 :( Timing belt is due though, so I can tackle that job at the same time. I hope my cam seals are still OK though..
Damn good.. Thanks for you're help SiRobb
Fun fact... on seals and rubber bits I soak or spray with transmission fluid... It's a better rubber conditioner and protector than engine oil... usually once a month I get under my car and engine bay/ trans area and spray trans oil over all exposed rubber bits... make sure you let trans oil air dry before driving around, usually about 3 plus hours
Tip for anyone trying to get the seal on! Get a cap off of a small wd40 can, or like i used a cap off a CRC zinc spray can. Modifiy it so it goes over the crank and it has perfect circumference to get over the step, lube it up and it will be very easy to press on
@@YT.epicgamer Crank Seal Installation Tool Video ruclips.net/video/JG_kb10NFG0/видео.html
If you don't have the "VOLVO SPECIAL TOOLS" install the gasket in the block like the video shows and install pump without the front seal and the pump will go on easier, bolt down and install outter seal. I'm in the process of doing one now and will make a video showing that way. I made 3 special volvo tools for $15 or less.
It seems to me that your way is better. Pressing the seal in with your hand may seem like a real time saver while the oil pump is out, but fighting that step like in the video cancels out any advantage. I would just buy the tool, or make something.
love your vids -- and your vocal cadence!
My S60R had a crankshaft oil leak when I bought it.
It cleared itself up after a few hundred km's.
Turns out the car was sitting around for months without being driven before I bought it.
best video ever now I know war to do with my v50
Very useful! I had a fuel filter start leaking when I changed it it was in horrible condition and oil started leaking from that side around the same time I'm assuming that this is what it is
Thank for the video! It really helps me!
Hi SiRobb. Haven't heard from you in ages. Hope you're OK and the Volvo is going strong.
My LT35 SDI has the same engine as this (IIRC) and I will be doing this job very soon. Luckily for me, the engine in the van is longitudinal but I will have to remove the radiator and van front end...I will be looking to do the timing belt whilst in there...so maybe I'm doing the timing belt and the crank seal is secondary?? Thanks for sharing and your explanations are top notch....
Malcolm Young Thanks for the comment.
Your engine isn't the same as the one in the video but I would imagine a similar seal arrangement will be present.
Hi Simon, your videos have been a great help for me. Thanks. We haven't heard from you in months, is the Volvo just running smooth with no trouble or have you sold it? Regards Ulrik (DK)
Brilliant video, thank you!
EXCELLENT video. Thanks very much
Thanks for this video!!! I guess this cars toast the gaskets because of high temperatures. They run hotter because Turbochargers
Love the video, bud. Thank you for taking the time to make it. Dumb question: do I need to drain oil before taking the oil pump out?
Hi there... great tutorial ...thank you!
Hi @SiRobb I have had a look at a V8 Xc90 with 130000 miles. There was a little oil smoke on the right side (looking from front at the engine), got less after 20 miles ride - nearly vanished but also slight whining noise and every few seconds like the engine aspirates. I made a video and could send. Would be great help to know if I should buy or not. All the best, Andre
I can't offer important advice based on remote evidence unfortunately. You have seen the car in person and still you're unsure so I would pay someone knowledgeable local to you to take a look.
I have an oil leak just over the heat exchanger on which the oil filter is screwed on. All these expert mechanics tighten the filter so hard that you need dynamite to get it loose again. VW Multivan with the ACV engine.
Very good work, tanks it's my next option because y car leaks and it's not the oil pan gasket!
I know it's been awhile, but could you add the part numbers or the seal kit number to the description?
And thank you so much for the walk-though, tremendous help.
I won't be using Vida for a little while but as I film in HD, I'm pretty sure with some pausing, the part number labels can be read in the video.
great video, where on the crankshaft are the marks to align the crankshaft for timing?
Great video THANK YOU!
From a 2008 Volvo C30 2.4L, L5 B5244S4
Timing belt tensioner and idler 24Nm
Oil pump housing bolts 10Nm
Water pump 10Nm
Crank Pulley 25NM + 60º
Accessory belt tensioner 24Nm
Engine mount to frame 90Nm
Engine mount to block 133Nm
VVT gear center bolt 120Nm
VVT gear bolt plug 35Nm
Hey. The 4 bolts on the oilpump, whats the torque there?
Regards
🤔
Good video. My 2002 S60 2.0t has just sprung an oil leak and it makes a kinda whirring sound when started from cold. Goes away after a while . Also just had a message on the dash appear saying no oil pressure. I'm guessing the two are related. And I'm guessing this is the problem. How long would this take a mechanic to do?
man, this job is essential a timing belt job... all for a little piece of rubber...
Hi SiRobb,
Great videos.
I have an Australian 2008 Volvo XC90 D5 2.4 Diesel with around 170,000 Kms which we have owned since new.
We currently have a heater that doesn’t work and with ambient temps getting down to -6, it’s not so good for the family.
Wondering if you have any ideas re a likely cause. The techs have shown me the inside of the EGR ? Ducting and it has about a 4 or 5 mil black crud build up and a coked up internal valve of some sort which they think is asscociated with an internal oil leak. It doesn’t seem to use much oil but it only gets driven about 50 Kms per day.
They have changed the thermostat, which while 10 years old and pretty filthy, showed no obvious issue.
They have also replaced the water/ coolant pump with no improvement.
Do you think they should take off the injector manifold and investigate for stuck valves etc.
They have check the hoses in and out of the firewall for continuity and that seems fine with an external ( workshop ) supply but the engine itself doesn’t seem to be allowing hot coolant into the cabin area.
We spent 2 years in a hot climate where the heater wasn’t used at all so wondering if something could be seized up somewhere.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated if you have encountered this sort of thing before or indeed if you have already covered the issue in a previous video.
Thanks again.
Cheers,
Jeff
oceanair69nz@gmail.com
Did you install a new timing belt? I've read online that oil can contaminate the rubber belt and cause it to fail prematurely, but the independent Volvo shop I went to did not replace the timing belt when they changed the leaking front cam seal on my 2002 V70 XC.
Simon, are you Still alive? Or is your car just dont need any repairs nowdays?
Great video, very informative! Do you know if the 2.4 liter gas engine is set up in the same or similar way? Could I use this video for a 2002 Volvo v70 xc? Thanks so much, forgive my ignorance!
Very informative,
What year model engine is this for ?
The procedure is the same for many engines and model years.
@@sirobb Thank you for all your instructive video ! I think I have the same issue on my 2008 P3 (D5 auto) ; do you know if procedure and parts are the same ?
Thx again !
@@sirobb ok but it would be helpful to know what model this is pls
Did this today, Thanks!
maybe that seal is best installed after the install of the pump? i might do this next oil change..thank for video
Before or after, it still needs to pass the lip and that's the trickiest part.
ABSOLUTELY..
Quite a lot of oil there!
The crankshaft and cam seals are the same size ( & same part number) on these engines.
rob great video
is it a common problem on P1 ?
I find some oil leaking near oil pump,there is a white cover above right front axle
How did you prime the oil pump before starting ?
This might be kind of a stupid question but does the oil in the motor have to be drained before doing this?
Probably not if the car is tilted enough but I would drain it to be certain.
Thanks for the video. Looks like I have the same issue with my 2005 D5. out of interest do you know what puller you used for the crank pulley? I need to order one!. Also what mileage did the car have when this problem started. I'm on 280k miles and starting to think I've been real lucky so far as most of the car is still original!
Nice videos SiRobb
Good vid SiRob. Can you estimate how much time it will take to do this? on a 07 2.5Turbo. I have a lift and all the tools except for a proper seal installer tool. The 2 hours seem a bit low. I work very carefully and clean up everything like new. My leak isn't nearly as severe as yours
It depends if you've had the belts off before.
If it's your first time, allow up to 4 hours or so.
It's not an especially difficult job nor is it a job you want to rush or have a strict time limit for.
Thanks for your video! I replaced the seals and gasket. When Idle no leaks, when accelerating, leaks a whole bunch (all 4-5 quarts in 30--40 miles) any ideas?
Is the leak around the pump?
SiRobb, howCan i get the copper selant out after removing the injecthor
Hi, another great video. Quick question, I intend to remove the oil pump, replace the gasket and seals. Could I not just install the new crankshaft seal once the pumps back in, as if I’d never removed it? Rather than having to manufacture the sleeve type affair to try to get it to slip over?
Many thanks.
Unfortunately, regardless of which order you do it in, at some point, the new seal will have to pass over the step on the crankshaft and that will require either the correct tool or some form of improvisation.
Thanks for the speedy reply. Would a suitable long socket/tube with enough pressure applied be appropriate or would it need a more creative solution to press it in once the cooler had been reinstalled?
Anything of the same diameter to the wide part of the crankshaft is fine. Once past the ridge, the final pressing in of the seal by hand is straightforward.
Thanks so much mate
Does it need lubrication?
Hi Simon. Do you solve tour leak problem after this job? If yes, how many miles you got from then? Thanks. P.S. good job, as always.
Yes the leak stopped and has lasted for about 15000 miles so far.
that was excellent thank you
I have had the same problem but even installing a new seal the proper way with a tool it still seems to be leaking must it be like a origanil seal or close to oem spec
The seal may have deformed when installing. There's a specific installation tool to use to prevent this. It's in my list of videos.
Does the oil need to be drained or is the pump higher than the sump level?
I was wondering this too. The pump is a decent amount above the sump, so it shouldn't need to be drained.
I'm wondering about this procedure, did it work and stop the oil leaks. My wife's 02 S60 seems to be doing on the same spot as yours and it looses medium amount of oil over a course of a week, engine still has oil but it leaves a mess and make my wife worry which in turn, she looks at me to fix.
It stopped the leak on the car in this video so it depends on whether the leak on your wife's car is caused by the same thing.
Cleaning up the area first makes it much easier to spot where a leak is coming from.
@@sirobb thanks for the reply, I can try cleaning around the area but I think that would be an accomplishment in itself. Thank you for the feedback, I will try some things first then I will consider doing it to her car.. it leaks off the passenger front side as well that why I suspect it.
How do you install the crank pulley
Hello, can you show me where is located the crank sensor? Thanks, Lucian !
Hi Simon great video as always mate. I have a 2007 V70 was wanting to change gearbox oil but few people advised against it. I feel they're wrong, would you say my mileage is too high to change gearbox oil as I don't think it's been done before it's covered 128k 23k by me car seems to have had an easy life hasn't been driven or treated harshly. Cheers for any advice. Keep the vids coming pal👍🏻
John Mc Hi John. Manual or automatic?
SiRobb automatic mate
Automatic it is Simon
Do it, then do it again a week later.
I heard about a rubber core plag behind the engine that can pop up. You have an idea about at how many miles can this happen,and if in facelift cars equipped with old euro 3 d5 can this happen
Core plug failures are more rare from 2005 onwards but you can never say never.
Will do this job soon but with a new oil pump $ 😅
Ouch, that's an unusual failure. I hope the fix goes well. Also watch my short Seal Installation Tool Video here. ruclips.net/video/JG_kb10NFG0/видео.html
You should've used some of that carbon cleaner to degrease that area right around the crank gear.
Hello Simon, i just check my injectors and I am not happy with what i found.
injector no. 2 give me just a little fuel
injector no. 4 give me a lot of fuel ( in just one min like 200ml).
can you make a video how to fix this problem, please? Thanks for your time!
Lucian Octavian Simion If it leaks more than 40ml in a minute, the only fix is to replace the injector.
I've already done several injector videos showing how to do a change properly so look through my list of videos.
First thanks for the promt answer! I saw all videos from you... what do you think is the best to do? to buy a new one or recondioned one?
What size of bit you need to remove the oil pump screw
thien lu it’s a 30mm nut
Hi, I have the very same problem with my XC90 V8 2008, can you please help me with procedure and informations
Great video! I've followed the steps outlined but am stuck. I removed the crankshaft seal but the oil pump will not come out. Ive tried prying with a screwdriver but it only rotates but will not come off Any ideas anyone?
Thanks in advance!
It's a *very* close fit between the oil pump and housing and whilst you can lever the lugs a little bit, the pump must eventually come out straight.
Levering on one point too much will skew and jam the pump against the housing.
If all 4 bolts have been removed, there's nothing holding in the pump other than the close fit, the pump seal and maybe some grime.
@@sirobb Thanks so much. I'll try using vice grips on each side then and see if I can convince it to help me out.
Fantastic video and support for Volvo owners!
Vice grips on one side and pliers on the other and with a couple of tugs, off she came!
Thanks again SiRob!
@@SuperMusicguy1000 Excellent and well done.
Did a clogged PCV Valve cause to much oil pressure in the crank case . Just wondering if that is why the crank seal went ? Thanks for posting.
nice review, thanks!
What holds the oil pump seal in place to allow oil pressure to build up ?
@@Kingdmctzn The outer seal sits in a groove and the paper gasket is held flush against the engine block and prevented from moving with specific cut outs.
ok I have a 2001 V70XC cross country that is really pissing oil out, a stream running down right next to the crankshaft pulley on the front side(of vehicle) havent dug too deep as yet but was wondering if after removing the hamonic balancer and covers etc it is ok to start the engine and run it briefly to really pinpoint the leak, have plenty of oil in engine and thinking of at idle only
Starting the engine in that state would be a terrible idea.
@@sirobb before you replied to the above and i'd read it I went ahead and did just that, made sure all bits were clear and kept hands well back, no probs at all, the oil stream that was emerging around the crank area was from the inlet cam seal which surprised me as the inlet drive pulley was dry on the inside, having a bugger of a time locating that lower timing mark though
@@michaelna3119 If you see my D5 timing belt video, there's more info on the crank pulley timing mark.
Good video, I have Volvo S80 D5 2004 with a bit oil leak from the top of the engine, what could be the reason?
Oil cap gasket most likely. Could also be from the PCV hose.
great video
Hi .
I have a the same problem with my Volvo v70xc.
I change all the Peace's that you show in this vedio. But when I put it all back together again. There was still a mainer lick on the same side as we're the moyer lick was. What do you think is the problem from now? Should I change the hall metal piece ?? Or what is you suggest??
It sounds like you have damaged the new seal when installing it.
SiRobb Could he have not got the seal or part of the seal over the lip?
As iv just purchased a D5 and a first time Volvo owner I’m So glad I found your channel!
Could you help with a video on the swirl flap issue? The arm on mine is just hanging loose and I’m not sure what’s the best way to reconnect it.
Also it’s quite oily around the rocker cover in that area
Any help would be appreciated :-)
Sell your D5 and buy a petrol version...
If the crankshaft has a groove where the seal lip seats, you have too use a repair sleeve, or your wasting your time, it's going too leak, same go's for the camshafts
Are you referring to the repair sleeve sold by auto zone. I replaced the crank seal on a 05 s40 t5 and against better judgement I uses a make shift tool, it was a epic fail. Was wondering if I could use the auto zone tool and seat the current seal or start fresh with new seal & tool.
I am looking to buy a 2006 c90 and the engine doesn't sound smooth it a small amount of water mixed with oil on the oil cap. But the coolant is clear what chance it's the head gasket? Also would you work my these c90?
I would buy that even if it doesn't run as that is the only c90 ever in existence.
Hi, maybe you know how to change Volvo S60 D5 2004 cv joint axle ?
What tools were used to remove the castors and the toothed wheels? Anybody knows what it's called and where I can buy it?
original belt guard?
Robert DIY EU😀
I'm happy with that.
We're both subscribed to each other's channels too. 😊
I have had 4 volvos and love them. Have a 98 s70 glt now love it.
good job!!
My bad Sorry bro you were just showing the old oil that you were going to clean . 👍
Looks like that’s the left hand side. The right hand side is the gearbox.
Left right orientation is from the perspective of sitting in the driver's seat.
Hi Hello, I disassembled my oil pump, but when I installed it, the oil did not rise. Can you teach me how to purge it?Please
I have never disassembled the pump so perhaps you've put it back together incorrectly.
The oil system self purges when restarting the engine so there's no special procedure.
@@sirobb
thank you. Today I disassembled the pump again and it is dry. there's no oil. where can I send you a picture?
You can upload a video to your RUclips account and send the link.
I'm not sure how I can help you though.
@@sirobb
Today I checked and compared the installation of the gasket, with the one in your video and I realized that I had the gasket flipped. I'll install again tomorrow and I'll let you know what happens. I really appreciate your help.
I hope you get lucky.
Stupid question, but do I need to drain the oil from the engine before this?
No not necessary but an oil change afterwards wouldn't hurt
@@jesusromero5217are you sure about that
@@oscarvasquez7408 the oil level is below the oil pump, it sucks oil from a tube that goes into the oil pan the deepest part. you can se the parting line of the oil pan.
hi , do you know whats going on with volvoforums ?
rapidvxr No idea I'm afraid.
I've not known it be down for this long and they usually give warning if there's site maintenance due so it's all a bit odd.
ok thanks , looks like i`ll have to watch daytime tv then till it`s time for work
Hi Simon, where are you based? Do you work on other cars or just your own? Thanks
Where are you and what work are you wanting done?
@@sirobb I'm in Birmingham but I can travel to you, I want the PCV done and Throttle Body cleaning. Been getting MAF issues I've replaced the MAF twice with Bosch. Thanks
That's not really the kind of job I'd want to do.
You'd be much better to just get Dice and Vida as you'd be able to to test, move and calibrate components to avoid replacing parts unnecessarily and Vida contains a complete workshop manual to guide you through replacing pretty much any part on the car.
There's also plenty of information on various Volvo forums in relation to pcv overhaul and throttle body cleaning.
To be continued,,, My Volvo is slinging oil on my neighbors cat and she has kittens ,,not the neighbor but the cat so now they all hate me and Volvo. This is a great video but sense it is a Volvo and your being so cool about it , I'm having trouble with understanding what your explaining because your not cussing that piece of crap the way I do mine. There over engineered for NO apparent good reason . And every one of those programmers that come up with Limp Home Mode needs at least one of there legs broke so they will understand what limp home means.