Volvo 2.4t Rear Cam Seal Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
- This Steve's Garage video is about replacing the rear cam seal on a 2000 Volvo 2.4t. This differs from the 850 and earlier V70s because those have a distributor. The 99-00 P80 cars have coil on plug ignition, and that's what this video covers.
Because this video is about cam seal removal and installation on a 2000 V70 2.4t, I do gloss over the removal of everything in the way (air-box charge pipe, etc). I'm assuming if you're willing to tackle cam seals on a P80 Volvo you know how to remove all the parts that are in the way. While this job isn't difficult, if performed incorrectly you'll still have a leaking cam seal. Take your time replacing your cam seals and you'll be successful!
At the end of the video I talk about my experience with the 2.4t cam seals and how they relate to the PCV system. To sum it up here - my PCV system was only functioning properly because the cam seals were leaking. After installing the cam seals and them not leaking, the PCV system blew out the front cam seals. The PCV system port in the block was actually. It passed the glove test at idle because it was low pressure, and the cam seals were leaking. Once it was buttoned up and taken on the highway, the pressure was too great. As any Volvo owner knows, check that PCV system, and make sure its functioning! If you don't know the history of your P80 Volvo, make sure the PCV system is perfect so you don't risk getting stranded after blowing seals out.
For written instructions, please check out my DIY Auto thread here - www.diyauto.com/manufacturers...
If you have any questions, feel free to comment. Thanks for watching!
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Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:21 - Tools You'll Need to Replace 99-00 Volvo Rear Cam Seals
0:51 - Accessing The Cam Seals in a 99-00 Volvo
3:40 - 99-00 Volvo 2.4t Cam Seal Removal
3:54 - 99-00 Volvo 2.4t Cam Seal Installation
4:49 - Assemble Volvo 2.4t After Cam Seals
5:16 - 99-00 Volvo 2.4t PCV Issues
6:20 - Outro 
Авто/Мото
great little quick video and just what i needed. one small note, the intake rear cam, if the cover is there, never got a cam seal as the rear plug functioned as the seal so that small part there wasn´t a hack by the previous owner. thanks again.
Thanks for the comment! I had no idea that the dust cap served as the seal. So I guess in my case the dust cap was not sealing correctly and I just did extra work. I assume there's no issue with installing a seal anyway?
Did you end up installing the seal ? How did it go? Or did you remove it and only use the dust cap?
@@wc2787 I had the seal on there with the dust cap, but the comment from James Madison is correct, you don't need it. I actually had a PCV issue that caused the front cam seals to blow out a few months after this video was filmed, so I went back and removed that came seal behind the cap. I then installed the cap and did a very light bead of RTV around it just to keep any oil from leaking around it. It's what a local Volvo guy does, so I followed his lead.
very helpfull. ima do them on my S70 this week. Thanks for that.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video. Can you please explain to me how you locked the cams? The tool I got is to be installed exactly in the same rear part of the cams. Cheers
That seems to be what most cam locking tools are because you lock them to do the timing belt. You need a cam sprocket locking tool. You can usually pick up an adjustable one for a decent price at your local parts stores, you just have to find one that fits.
Hi there
Hope this finds you well
Firstly I'd like to thank you for the information that you provide.
Secondly, I'm located thousands of miles away from you so your answer to my questions will be greatly appreciated
I need your step by step instructions on how to remove the Rear Cooling Bypass Pipe because it started to leak from where it meets the back of the water pump
my Volvo is a 2001 xc v70 turbo AWD
if you did that before and have a video or a link to how to do it please send
another question should I remove the turbo to get that pipe removed?
your help will be highly appreciated
thanks in advance.
Hi, unfortunately I haven't removed that on my car so I don't have any advice or a video. I know that Robert DIY deals in P80s and you have a P2 with it being an 01, but does he have a video? I know the early P2 cars are similar to P80s. Also, maybe pick up a haynes manual to help you out?
@@StevesGarage I'll try to find that manual. Thanks any way
Good info.
Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment!
What cam locking tool did you use on the front? I see some really cheap knock-off's to the very expensive Volvo tools.
I'm ashamed to say that I used a block of wood. I tried a few cheaper cam locking tools and none of them fit. I think I'll be ordering the expensive Volvo one for the future because it's not something to take a chance on.
@@StevesGarage thank you!
@@davidmaddox7154 No problem, happy to help!
What if i had changed my pcv system but never replaced the seals. It has been another 100,000 miles since last pcv tune up. So it is time to do it again. But my q is, what if i just replace the seals and not the pcv? Its oem parts. Change oil religiously. Pls lmk. Maybe just replace seals then do a glove test?
If the seals aren't leaking there's no reason to replace them. They are also not a replacement for the PCV system maintenance. You should definitely do the PCV, and the cam seals are optional.
Could you tell me the diameters of all the seals? front and rear cam seals and crank seals please for volvo s60 2.4t 2002
I'm not familiar with P2 cars as I haven't owned or worked on one. I know there are different front cam seals for engines with and without CVVT. I know that the IPD website has dimensions listed for some of the seals, you could also check FCP Euro.
I changed my spark plugs and I had to un clamp my turbo intercooler and after that I guess I didn’t clamp it enough. While driving I noticed something wrong so I checked under the hood and it was in clamped. I re clamped it tight at home and now my oil is leaking more it never dropped onto the floor but now it does. What can be causing this issue. Would it be the cam seals?
Turbo intercooler tube ^**
Hard to say what would be causing it via a comment section. If it is the cam seal, your PCV most likely needs to be serviced. There can be a small amount of oil in your intercooler hose from blow by, but enough to drip in the floor seems excessive.
Thanks for sharing, do you have video how to change valve gasket? Need some help because a little oil coming to the spark plug of my s60 volvo and can't any video how to chsnge it a friend of mine told me to need dpecisl tools I don't know what it is.
I don't have a video for that because P80/Whiteblocks don't have a valve cover gasket. They use anaerobic sealant. You said S60, so I'm assuming P2 or P3? I don't have the experience to say first hand, but I don't think the P2 cars use a gasket either. Is it possible you have a PCV issue or your oil cap seal has failed?
@@StevesGarage thank your for you time, I don't know if my car is p1 or P2 S60 2001 model Motor code B2544S. When I change the spark plug I noticed that the spark plug are wet with oil above the thread not much some already dried. A friend of mine told me its the valve gasket and we tried to torch those small volt above the cover and he told me if I change the gasket I need a special tool I really don't know. There's no any leak outside or under the motor.
@@nestordupo845 Happy to help out, thanks for the detailed reply. A 2001 is a P2. P1s are S40 / V50 / C30 / 06+ C70.
As for the B5244 engine, there's no gasket. Unless the cam cover has been removed and installed poorly, it's most likely the oil fill cap gasket leaking or a PCV issue. Depending on the mileage if you haven't addressed the PCV it'll need to be done. For the oil cap gasket, IPD sells a Viton version that makes that gasket a one and done item instead of needing a periodic replacement.
@@StevesGarageI live in Sweden our mile here is different from the US 1 mile=10km now my car 22000 Swedish miles. The vvt soleniod gasket broke down 5 yrs ago and the oil run all over but not in the spark plug bay. About the PCV I don't know if it is the problem I change oil every yr. To service the PCV it will cost a fortune here in Sweden more than the value of the car. Well I will drive it till it broke down then maybe I will buy another car instead. I seldom use it only maybe a 1000km a yr or less. Only in summer time and no rust at all. About the oil cup I change it 3 yrs ago. Thank you for your time appriciated much.
@@nestordupo845 Yea, the PCV service is a big cost, but it's not impossible to do yourself! There are a lot of guides out there. Even with changing the oil regularly it could still need to be serviced. Even with the low mileage things can break down due to how old it is.
Will this method work on a 2005 Volvo s60 2.5t awd
I don't know enough about that engine to say for sure. But I do know enough about Volvos that the concept of the replacement would be the same. I'm sure the sizes would be different, but the location and method would be very similar.
@@StevesGarage perfect! Thanks
@@tysonstuart312 No problem, I hope the video helps. If you do have any other questions let me know. I might be able to help you out.
What about the caps of the rear camshaft
I'm not sure what you're referencing? The small wheel and dust cover install the same way they came off.
I'm kind of panicking because I didn't have a locking tool and when taking off the grey little wheel on the back the cam moved about a quarter inch. However the belt itself did not move but the whole gear, when I look at the cam gears pop in and out about 1/8th of an inch :(
So the cam is moving in and out of line with the belt? Or it rotated out of position? The cam shouldn't move laterally as it's locked into place by the cam cover. If it moved out of rotation, you might have to reset the VVT hub to sync it back up.
@@StevesGarage Sorry, badly explained. So the cam gear itself does not move at all however I can feel the cam internally rotate as I loosened the wheel on the back, but less than a quarter turn (cam gear remained stationary and frozen in place, so to speak). Yes, the cam gear moves horizontally in and out of line with the timing belt (in and out about the width of a cardstock piece of paper, which would lead me to think just free play between the two parts that bolt the cam into its "cradle" in the head or something.
Additionally when I tightened it back up it rotates back to the position it was in (clockwise about a quarter turn) prior to loosening and unbolting. Hope this helped clear any confusion
I've replaced and bolted everything back up in regards to the PCV system. All that's left after the cam seals is the timing belt which I haven't started yet
@@JCDUDECANTU No problem! I think that's the movement within the VVT hub. You're doing the timing belt, so your best bet is once that's replaced, turn the engine over by hand two full rotations and make sure everything stays lined up. That's a good practice to have after doing the timing belt anyway, but extra insurance since you felt the cams move while doing the seals. Let me know if that makes sense or if you have any more questions!
@@StevesGarage I will be doing that shortly. If everything lines up is there any need to "recalibrate" or reset the CVVT cams? Best practice to do so anyway? Thanks for the help thus far. I have the "4T5" motor with the dual CVVT
@@JCDUDECANTU I'm not very familiar with resetting the VVT as I haven't done it myself. I believe it only has to be done if you remove it, but I would double check. From what I understand the car will run if it's not tensioned correctly, it just runs poorly when it calls for the VVT to engage.