How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- How to replace the positive crankcase ventilation, or for short pcv diaphragm on your Volvo T5 engine. The car I’m working with is a 2007 Volvo C30 T5, the T5 engine depending on the model does come with a couple different styles of PCV systems. This engine has the heated PCV system and it comes as an assembly with the oil filter housing which is about $300 from the dealer. The other style is basically a plastic box which includes an oil trap instead and is about a quarter of the price. There is only one source on Ebay who makes a new diaphragm, everyone else only sells a filter housing replacement. The new diaphragm was about $10 and the fastest shipping method was about $50 to Canada. #volvo #volvot5 #volvoc30
Eventually with heat and age, the rubber diaphragm will crack and break. When this happens, the car will make a howling sounds, almost as if you have a faulty idler pulley bearing. However the sound only happens at idle. When this happens, you can drive the vehicle but not for long. It’ll cause excessive vacuum in the engine, if driving the vehicle for an extended period of time, it will cause damage to your camshaft and crankshaft seals. Another way to tell if the diaphragm has failed is by pulling up the dipstick or open the oil fill cap in the valve cover. You’ll notice a strong vacuum. When those areas are open, the sound will also disappear. I have also found the sound is much quieter when the engine is colder vs when it’s up to operating temperature. The turbo will also not stay in boost and if driven long enough, a check engine light will be triggered which maybe a P2187 which means the engine is running lean at idle.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-standard screwdriver
-OBD2 code reader
-new diaphragm
-socket set with ratchet
-flashlight
Procedure:
-ensure your engine is cold when working on it
-start by removing the air duct going to the air box by removing the two 8mm bolts on the radiator support
-pull up the first portion of the duct to unclip it and then remove the lower portion
-there is another round cap that needs to be removed
-this is removing by using a small pry tool or a standard screwdriver can also work, either push the tool between the cap and the plastic edging or pull the cap up by the little notch in the plastic edging
-once that cap is popped up, you can work it around to unclip it from the backside
-the diaphragm will most likely come out with the cap and there will be a spring left inside the assembly
-then remove the spring
-clean the cap and inside of the pcv valve area to remove any oil residue or build up
-pull the diaphragm from the cap and now you can see the split which was causing the issues
-ensure the spring is clean before reinstalling
-install the spring
-the position of the new diaphragm, the black plastic ring faces down and the spring sits inside the recessed area
-getting this back together can be quite tricky
-considering it’s such a tight space with minimal room to work and you can’t get a clear view
-you may need to feel around to some extent, from what I’ve found, install the spring and diaphragm together, the spring must be compressed and then release it when it’s above the hole on it’s alignment tab
-you can push the diaphragm down with a long screwdriver from the top between the intake runners, then slowly work the cap into place
-try to snap the cap on the rear first, then finish up with the wrong
-the long screwdriver can be used for added leverage to pop the cap down as it’s a tight connection
-starting the engine to verify the repair is successful
-as a final step, the check engine light should be cleared
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My “reliable” mechanic charged me $270 for the oil housing part + $500 labor work. Note that I had replaced the oil housing + manifold intake gasket with him 9 months before.
As I can’t afford it, I found this video. $11 the diaphragm + $13 quickest shipping, and I replaced it in a few minutes. The leverage tip is a great one to put the cap back on.
Man, you’re a life savior! Thank you so much, God bless you
So happy I was able to help! Thank you for the feedback.
Can you provide the link on where you purchased the diafragm? Thanks
i went to multiple "specialists" and even the volvo agency in Mexico and nobody can resolve this problem until i found this video, thank you so much
Happy to help and thank you for the feedback :)
Esta era la opcion que existia solo en Rusia y Latvia para resolver el problema del mal diseno del Oil Housing desde 2005. Ahora en ebay ya lo venden incluso oem.
Same here in El Salvador, these people get used to work old Toyota's only. Very disappointed
My 2011 C70 started leaking oil from nowhere. Long story short. The PCV failure increased engine pressure damaging engine seals. After replacing the broken PCV with this tutorial the leaking stopped and the code went away. I know there are damaged seals but can’t afford the repairs now. One advise, be careful with the spring when installing because it can bounce away. Thanks a lot for this tutorial!
How u know its pcv and not the diaphragm @MrFonedriver
Had a P0171 error code and there were a ton of things people had tried. Searched and searched for the oil trap because my engine model of XC60 T5 (2016) was impossible to find any help until I found this video. This was exactly where it was and literally to me 20 minutes to change. The hardest part was getting the top off the oil trap because mine didn't have a little space like this one to put a screw driver (or something else) like this one. I used a tool that is metal which is used to scrape gaskets off and it worked. Thanks a ton for posting this video!!!
Awesome to hear you were able to get it fixed and thank you so much for the feedback!
You know , you did make removing that cap look a lot easier than it was . That being said this was the best, straight forward and perfectly described video I’ve ever watched. You covered everything from describing the problem, to how the vehicle reacts ,to the trouble codes finally ending with the correct repair . Well done sir!
Getting that cap off was a bitch,
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :) Wasn't that easy for me unfortunately, I just cut out the frustrating parts lol. It was during the winter when this happened so my hands were freezing which didn't help either.
As difficult as it is, it's much better than the earlier generation, which I have and he refers to with the oil trap "box", which you can't get to without removing the intake manifold....even though I love the T5 series engine, I'll never buy that generation again due to the stop box location.
Saved me hundreds maybe thousands, sharped old screwdriver popped off, fixed in 15 minutes including time to sharpen screwdriver, well done sir!
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the feedback!
I would like to thank you for the time in making this video , i never realized that the top cap of the pcv valve was designed to be popped off in that manner and replacement rubber diaphragms where available in that dimensions , have a good day and thank you for your time
Always happy to help, thank you for your comment and feedback :)
Just wanted to write in to say thank you as well. I live 2000km from the nearest Volvo service centre (temporarily on a work contract) and the other mechanics in my town only like working on Toyotas. I would not have been able to get this fixed without paying $2000 to truck it elsewhere and back. You’re a real lifesaver, thank you!
This only took me 1/2 hour! A few hints: You can just yank the airbox up (pretty hard) and gain an inch or two I just loosened the hose clamp to the air-intake pipe. No need to remove any other screws. Also, I sharpened an old screwdriver to get it in between the seam (which is hard to see), then twisted it to start removing the cap. Last, make sure the cap is back down tight! I thought it was tight but then used a wooden handle of a hammer, prying against the boss where the airbox was attached, and it went down further. I did it in a few spots on top of the cap.
Great video! Thanks for the easy walk through. I'm glad you warned me about how stubborn the black cap can be because I would have thought I was taking it off wrong if you hadn't mentioned that. I had heard the "dying turkey" sound and then the OBD threw a running lean bank 1 code. I saw them for sale online but luckily, I live around 10 miles from IPD who keeps the diaphragms in stock. I adjusted out the dipstick a bit to relieve the pressure and drove out to IPD. After I got back, I cooled the engine and cleaned the area and did the swap just like you showed. The dying turkey is gone as is the too lean DTC. Thanks to you and IPD that cost me a few hours and $18!
Awesome to hear you got it fixed and happy I was able to help!
Worked like a charm. The hardest part for me was verifying the number on the PCV/Oil filter assembly which entailed snaking my phone over near the oil filter cap and photographing the number on the assembly to verify which diaphragm was required. Many, many thanks!
Awesome to hear, thank you :)
Kudos!! Spent $700+ in 2019 on my first S60, spent same last yr Jan for my current S60, now same one failed again and they want another $750. I am still in disbelief that I replaced the diaphram by myself and its running gr8. $19.99 for parts, $10 same-day shipping, 20min later, done. Thanks for the tutorial!!!
Awesome to hear you were able to replace it, definitely a huge savings in money. Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback!
Thanks very much for posting this. $20 fix to a $200 problem. Easy to follow your guide.
You're welcome!
You Sir are a legend! Your instructions were awesome, I added a hair dryer to soften the cap also, worked like a charm. I'm so happy as it saved me heaps, cost of the membrane from Russia was $35 and here in Perth Australia, Volvo would have charged me for a complete oil filter housing + labour which would be around $750. Thank you so much. :-)
Dave Armitage Thank you for the hairdryer tip!! I couldn’t have gotten my cap off without it. :)
@@abbyedzards3498 you're very welcome 😊
Awesome to hear, thank you so much for the feedback and hairdryer tip!
@@4DIYers I have to be honest, the Russian company that supplied the diaphragm gave me that great info, my mechanic wouldn't touch it so I did it myself. Was easier than it looked. Interestingly enough I could not see any tears in the old diaphragm, but once fitted with the new one, the car is running like a dream, it really affected the turbo too.
Please send the link for where you bought it from
Many thanks! Half an hour ago I didn't dare to use force to loosen the lid, but thanks to your video (2:37) I did it anyway and of course it worked perfectly! Albert, The Netherland (V50 2.4I)
Awesome to hear you got it replaced and thank you for the feedback!
Amazing! Same diaphragm worked on my 2013 Volvo S 60 T5. Two different Volvo dealers told me I needed a new engine and a new transmission. They vehemently denied that it was the PCV system as I suggested. $50 and 20 minutes of labor saved me over $10,000
Awesome to hear, happy to hear you were able to avoid that unnecessary work and money. I firmly believe that many European cars are falsely labeled for being maintenance nightmare when in fact it's actually a problem caused by terrible mechanics.
If the government was for the people those mechanics would be in jail or thrown into slave labor camps. I hate liars and thieves!!!!
Did you notice a difference in the cap that was originally on your car vs the one that came in repair kit? Also how did you get cap off? The notch on mine seems to be on the back side to where I can't get to it.
In the same boat but non Volvo speciality mechanic still charged me $1500 to replace. Ugh
Fcp euro also sells just the diaphram, you can even buy the correct one based on year and model instead of housing code. Awesome video thanks!
Have done this same exact replacement on my Volvo some 10k ago, still running totally sweet! Beats replacing the entire PCV body!
Awesome feedback, thank you for sharing! Mine still works great but now I have a problem with my TCV. A new one is in the mail thankfully.
Thank you so much for the video, I ordered the part from IPD for about 20$ shipped to my door and since I have the elevate intake it was very easy to access the cap but getting the cap off can be tricky. After installing the new diaphragm no more squealing noise and no more high idle! Cars runs awesome and doesn’t sound like death at idle anymore! Thank you again 👍🏽
Thank you for sharing your experience and happy I could help!
This worked for my 2009 s40, over a few days the engine light cleared on its own after I swapped the part. Thanks a ton!
No problem, happy to help!
How did you get the cap off? I have the exact vehicle and don't wanna break the cap
IPD is wonderful source for Volvo parts.
Thanks for the help.
I agree and happy I could help!
Desde GUATEMALA.. muchas gracias.. Por tu video.. Y te deseo muchos éxitos.. DIOS TE BENDIGA.. 👍🤗
Happy I could help and thank you for the kind words!
Very good instruction. I have just replaced my diaphram. The vaddum is drastically reduced, but there is still a alight vaccum when doing the oil filler cap test. After refitting the diapraghm one more time, the slight vaccum is still there. I guess, that is normal. A couple of observations:
- I made a special tool by grinding an old screwdriver, so it would fit into the groove. That made removing the cap very easy. (Unable to post picture of it...)
- Before refitting the cap, I applied a little synthetic grease into the groove in the lid. That made reassembly quite easy.
- Notice there are two different diameters of diaphrams available, 55 mm and 58 mm. My C70 2.4 from 2007 needed the 58 mm diaphragm.
Thank you so much for the kind words and sharing your experiences. Should definitely help out future viewers.
Dear Henrik, where did you get your 58mm diaphragm? Thanx
You might consider buying both the 55 mm version and the 58 mm version. You only know what you need, after taking it apart. The cost os €11 each.
The problem is that I can not find any dimensions.. Do you have any link to some website to buy both?
Got my diaphragm today, took about 3 weeks from Russia to Florida, and installation took perhaps 20 min. The cap popped off using 2 screwdrivers, and installation worked well after a bit of lubrication, and then first pushing by hand and then carefully tapping a bit. I actually installed the diaphragm and the spring into the cap, and then installed the cap with all together....I guess I should have done like in the video, but this method worked as well. No more suction when opening the oil cap. Thanks for the video!
Awesome to hear and thank you so much for the feedback!
From Russia ?? I live in Florida and I bought it here in the USA ... Ipdusa.com or elevatecars.com . In here you'll find any part you need for your Volvo
Your video was most excellent and even though I’m working on a 2011 XC90 3.2L engine - the symptoms and similar engine codes appeared.
Awesome job and helpful video, my dude! Thank you for the contribution to all us DIY repair & maintenance folks in the RUclips community.
I am very happy to help and thank you so much for the kind words!
If you are in South Africa, this diaphragm can be locally bought from Unique Motorsport in Pretoria. Price for now is R800. Thanks for making this great video to assist DIY repairs
Replaced my intake manifold gasket thinking that was the problem lol. Glad I found this video! I ran to the local junk yard and grabbed one out of an S40 and it runs great now!
Right on, happy to help!
Thanks for the junk yard idea. I went there, bought the pvc cap for $1, and now the car runs like a charm.
Money saver !!! I just watched a video in which it looked like fixing that was going to be a two day job for a person who works full time. The other vid showed replacing the entire assembly !! Holy Cow !!
Life saving video mate, well done! Taking the cap off was really hard though, and mine didn't have that notch you showed! It almost seemed like the cap wasn't removable but with some serious elbow grease it came off. Thanks again.
You're welcome!
Thank you for this tutorial. I completed this task today on my C70 T5 this evening and the video clip was invaluable. Again, thank you!🤜🤛
Awesome to hear and thank you for your feedback :)
4DIYers how long did procedure take
@@novawagon559 if you have the right tool to get the cap off and it comes quickly you can be done in 10 mins
I managed to change out the diaphragms and I think it's important for others to know that there may not be a notch on the cap and possibly more importantly, I feel a need to point out the seem between the cap and the housing is virtually invisible. Vanos sends you information for links and photos to help one remove/ install the the diaphragm and in their photos, one can see the sliver of a gap between the cover and the housing. Pry in between that sliver to remove the cap. Getting it back on was a snap...LOL
Can you send me these photos? In my case the cap don´t have any notch.
BRIAN BRALEY
🙏
@@PTW201 I can paste the link to Vanos BMW page with the photos vanos-bmw.com/product/membrane-for-volvo-30684381-engine-oil-filter
@@PTW201 There are several photos and one shows the narrow sliver as well as where the notch is better than the others but all of them combined give a fuller view. Increase their size as well and you can see that notch location for those that have a notch or in my case, just the sliver of a gap between the cap and body. vanos-bmw.com/product/membrane-for-volvo-30684381-engine-oil-filter
BRIAN BRALEY Its done! Thanks a lot.
It really takes the wind out of your sails when you change the timing belt and accessory belts and everything associated with those areas and still hear that stupid noise. Thank you very much for this video
Yeah this is one weird sound that can be easily mistaken for something else. At least you have piece of mind not having to do the timing belt for a long time. Happy I could help and thank you for your comment too!
Useful video. I have a 2011 C70 and the housing did not have a notch. I ended up using a bee keepers hive tool to pry it apart. I installed the new diaphragm right into the cap and put the spring into the groove in the diaphragm before reinstalling. I also very gently twisted the spring end to make it tight to hold on to the diaphragm to help reinstall. Lastly I laid the hive tool on the cap to distribute force when I carefully tapped it down with a screw driver from above. Hope this helps a later model c70 owner.
Thank you so much for the feedback!
Thanks So Much' for your help here.. I'd been searching for this Fix' for months it seemed.. then finally finding success, in that I was also able this very simple repair..
All due entirely, to your generosity in sharing the opportunity to 'Access & Purchase', the 'Damaged Diaphragm Component', at a Fraction of the Costs' otherwise involved.. So I bought (2) of them..
Really Good Stuff'..
I was somewhat surprised, when the Package' turned up from Russia', thinking I was dealing with a Vendor out of the States'.. But Hey'..
Cheers'
Thank you so much for the feedback and kind words :)
Tnx! Did I just repaired my diaphragm with condom?!
The outer rim and inner blade was intact so I but the cup inside the condom, pressed the rim
on top of it, cut the reminder and placed the blade in the middle.
In any case it works now, buy's me time till I get replacement.
Update: after 7 days the condom still worked but was loosing elasticity. Installed replacement and the mild engine vacuum is about the same as with condom.
LMAO! In a pinch, if it works, it works ;) There's gotta be a good sales pitch hidden in there haha.
Thanks a lot man! The mechanic wanted more than NZD1000 to fix that.
Awesome to hear and happy I could help!
I did this to my xc70 recently and was a way easier operation. IPD sell the diaphragm for a couple of bucks too now fyi
I'm going to attempt this when diaphragm arrives. I'm no mechanic but willing to give it a go.
Thank you so much for the useful information I was able to remedy the problem myself without having to spend multiple dollars on a new unit as well as someone to put it in I appreciate the informative videos and I can't wait to see more
Bought my 2012 c30 6spd last fall when fuel began to climb. Just wanted something cheaper on fuel. Didn"t know what I was getting. This car is so fun to drive. Started with your air filter instructions, moved on to replacing plugs, and wil be doing my oil changes from now on. Love your clear concise instructions.consider me subscribed. Now I do need to replace my a/c compressor. Any vid"s?
Fantastic video. Thank you. I must say, the cap was a bitch to get off. The best way to do it for myself was stick a metal shim in the VERY slim gap between the cap and the housing, and turn the shim clockwise or counter clockwise to pry off
Thank you and great tip as well!
Really good and easy to understand, this video save me alot of money that i can now use to buy toilet papper 🙏🙏
Happy to help and thank you for the feedback!
Very helpful 4 dx and replacement as I wait for parts
Nice and easy! Thanx for explaining it in a VERY understandable way. I have a 2009 s40 2.4i. the layout is slightly different, but the overall basics are the same.
Glad it helped and thank you for the feedback!
Thank you so much for sharing this content. First it is of great help for all of us that have Volvos, I have a C70 T5, and second, the quality of the videos are great!! Please keep making videos!
Always happy to help and thank you for the feedback!
I am having this exact problem, as of yesterday. Thank you so much for making this video.
No problem!
Amazing video, but I have a question about this. So in the video, the symptom of the PCV going bad is if there's a strong-ish vacuum on the oil filler cap and dipstick. But around the internet, I see the "glove test" used to indicate the health of the PCV; you open oil filler cap, put a latex glove over it and start the engine. With this test, the PCV is supposed to be good if there's a vacuum, and bad if the glove inflates. Isn't this at odds with the idea of a vacuum effect being bad? Or am I just confused.
Thank you so much I got the same problem with my Volvo now I know how to solve it.
Thanks man helped me a lot changed mine had took the tire off thinking it was a pulley
Happy I could help! Yeah it can be easily mistaken for a bearing in a pulley failing.
@@4DIYers lol now I’m trying to figure out the name of the hose my car is getting to much air the hose disintegrated in my hand when I grabbed it guess it was old pcv valve hose or intake hose? Do u know by chance
Which hose is that? The plastic one from the duct opening close to the hood lever?
@@4DIYers thanks for replying man an it goes up to the engine but ima take it to a mechanic it’s being a pain in the ass gets to much air an stalls
@@4DIYers yea has like ridges
Hello. Thank you for your video. Its really helpful. I managed to change my diaphragm on my V50 2.4i.
I didn't have any negative pressure before that. After I changed the diaphragm and I opened the oil cap I saw I have negative pressure and it sounds exactly the same way like yours one before the change. I started reading and checking some guides and forums. All of them are saying that there should be a negative pressure since the whole system is designed to not have any air leaking. I'm a bit confused at this moment because I really don't know what to do. One of the options is to reopen the whole thing so I can see if there is some problem with the diaphragm ( I had some problems closing it and it took me 30-40 min to figure out how exactly to do it. On 2.4i you cant use long screwdriver for the back side of the cap. The other option is to replace the whole PCV system which I want to avoid due to the high cost. Some help and advice will be great.
I also have a 2.4i and I cannot get to the rear to open the cap to replace seal in the same manner as the video. How did you go about opening the cap?
@@eamonjacoby Hello. I didn't get any notifications about your comment. After I opened it from the front I used a flat screwdriver and gently pushed it between the housing and the cap. At the end it left really small area from behind which didn't pop. Was so afraid to not break the cap so I started slowly pushing the cap backwards toward the engine and it popped. That was the easy part. Afterwards to close it it was a whole adventure. You have to position the spring together with the cap. After that don't rush to close it because you may fuck up the diaphragm. Press it a bit and check with the tips of your finger if the diaphragm is away of the edges. I moved it sever times during the spring positioning. Then when you are ready just press the cap. Don't press it first from the back. For me it didn't work at all. Just position the cap all over the edges and press it at once. I was trying for 2 hours straight to close the way video shows. At last I decided I will try different way and it worked for less than a blink....I.....nvm I had fun :D
P.S. I just checked. My notification about replays were off. Hope you managed to do it.
Btw just in case someone is wondering the same as me. Its suppose to be some small vacuum. The sound at the beginning of the video when he opens the oil stick or the oil cap is normal to be there when you open the cap at first. The is a test you can perform about the PCV system. You replace the oil cap with a surgeon glove and it should suck it in a bit then your PCV system works properly. If its blowing the glove then you should check your PCV as soon as possible since it may cause some serious problems to your engine. You can check some videos over Volvo PCV testing.
Great video. I will definitely follow the steps you showed. Thank you so much for sharing.
Glad it was helpful and thank you!
Ford Mondeo 2008 XR5 also has this. My friend has had to replace his twice in 18 months.
Wheel done pal, a nice tutorial. Easy to follow and very helpful. 👍
Hey, in other videos I found information, that faulty PCV causes overpressure instead of vacuum. I just noticed I have an oil leak from the cap where the diaphragm is, also during inspection my car was running slightly lean during idle (lambda 1,1), May it be the diaphragm?
Thanks mate, I have one of these on order. your tutorial helps a lot.
No problem, happy to help!
@ty Wins hi mate its surprisingly easy to open the lid but just be careful to not damage the surfaces when you prying it open. Open slowly to avoid the spring popping out. The spring is a little tricky to get back in but you will get it. The lid just snaps back into place. You have to align the tabs up though.
Thanx alot for the video, i have now ordered a new one :)
Glad I could help and thank you for the feedback!
@@4DIYers I Have now changed mine to a new one, the bad news is that the old one wasnt broken, not what i can see :( I still put in the new one though and now the car is quiet but its still alot of vacum if i open the oil lid so i can imagine that the sound will come back. Any advise on what else it could be?
cap didnt budge... broke entire housing.... now full disassembly and new parts to replace... what a freaking nightmare.... this should be pinned to top of comments if at all possible
Thank you for your work. Your video is right on.
Awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback :)
Thank you, very helpful video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks you, this video helps me so much
Thank you for your video which is straight forward. Yes it was difficult to remove the cap and put it back again but it worked fine. However after replacing the diaphragm the car is back to normal. However if i remove the dip stick or oil cap I am getting smoke. What would be the reason behind it ? Thanks
My 06 S40 T5 is doing the sucky thing but I changed the diaphragm and nothing, also the old diaphragm looked good
Looks like theres a bunch of pcv kits with the plastic caps and spring included with the diaphragm now on ebay. Just bought one gonna see how it works out.
Great video! However after repair it seems that my engine burns oil. It possibile that this damage caused oil burning or it does not matter?
Brilliant helped a lot thank you
Awesome to hear and thank you for your comment!
Hey, Great vid. Thanks. I noticed the one you replaced it with is slightly different to the original one? Did this cause any issues. Im about to do the same repair.
Thank you. I never had any issues with it, everything worked as it should.
Tried very carefully to not break anything and somehow cracked the housing trying to get the cap off. Was on there very tightly. The lip of the housing came off with the cap. Off to the junkyard to try pulling a replacement housing. 😂
IPD also sells this part now for $17
Good to know, thank you for sharing.
the thing i still don't understand: if the PCV system is clogged, then positive crankcase pressure would not be ventilated, and thus pressure builds inside the engine, pushing out cam seals and etc. so wouldn't there be positive pressure when removing the oil cap or dipstick? you and the FCP euro guy both had excessive vacuum, not positive pressure. the glove test assumes positive pressure is a failure sign and vacuum is not. why?
i still have this question, and just got this issue on my C30 at over 212k miles. It's a vaccuum.
update...skirt of cap has a small thin shoulder on the housing that it seats down on, so you cant pry up on that lip, because it is part of the entire PVC housing. You have to wedge a sharp flat blade screwdriver or something inbetween to pry the cap apart from it, and then work your way around. The entire PVC housing snaps down around top of the OFH body with tabs. I broke the tabs on the left side and popped the entire housing up off of the OFH... i am going to just get a diaphram and try to reuse the original PVC housing, since it has a gasket around whole perimeter that seals off to the ventilation body of it for crankcase. Mine (the diaphram) was rotted horribly, and was sucking air like a vacuum cleaner...
Thank You, great savings.
No problem, happy to help :)
This is awesome. In my case, besides the howling and excessive vacuum, I have engine surging. Will this fix that that too, or should I replace the how PVC/oil filter housing. Also, can someone link me to the part? I can't find it.
I replaced the one for my car 🚗 a year ago then I have to replace it again last night 🤔 I thought it was going to last longer than this
I'm still struggling to get the cap off. It's not as easy as it looks. I don't know what else to do
THis from Brian Bailey above...
I managed to change out the diaphragms and I think it's important for others to know that there may not be a notch on the cap and possibly more importantly, I feel a need to point out the seem between the cap and the housing is virtually invisible. Vanos sends you information for links and photos to help one remove/ install the the diaphragm and in their photos, one can see the sliver of a gap between the cover and the housing. Look for the photos Vanos has posted to see the thin line between the housing and the cap. vanos-bmw.com/membrane-for-volvo-ford-30684381-engine-oil-filter
Mine was a 2011 T5. I had to use a soldering iron to melt a little notch into the flange that the cap rests on. The flange is flush with the cap, so you've got to be careful not to melt a hole in the cap. That gave me some leverage under the cap itself.
Very helpful video! I just checked my engine (V50 T5) and noticed, that there is some negative pressure in the housing. It's enough that you feel the Oil-lid beeing sucked in. However nothing changes in sound or revs when I open the lid or pull the dipstick. Also there's no engine fault light active. Can you tell me how much of negativ pressure is ok? Or should there be none?
I replaced my membrane but i'm not sure if its "slight vacuum" or not. Feels rather strong vacuum, I measured 20inwg with hose test.
Thanks for the video... I'm about to do this exact repair on my Volvo T5 engine, though has this repair lasted you 4 years? I've got a 2007 Ford Focus ST/XR5 Turbo with the T5 engine (exactly like your Volvo C30)
There is no reason for the repair to last years. I sold this car quite a few years ago.
This really helped bro
Glad it helped :)
@@4DIYers could you please give me the link of the product you bought, im buyin from Mexico btw
I have had this issue and recently got the whole PCV replaced (hoses and clamps as well), yet I keep hearing the whistling noise and there's still suction when I remove the engine oil cover. does anyone have any Idea why that could be?
I'm still yet to get the code however even though I have been driving the car for a while also there are no noticeable oil leaks at all
OK well yes agree good video one bad thing is I did replace mine Just the Diaphragm was all good for a little over a month I think there is to much carbon build up be hind mine because now it is squealing and my Vaccum went back up on the engine. Not saying this will or will not fix your vehicle just make sure you get the carbon under the cap cleaned out also.
@sparky24 I did think of trying that I just bought a new filter housing I will replace it when i get the chance to take it to my shop
Great information
Thank you!
Thanks buddy😊
No problem, happy to help!
FYI some are glued one, as mine is, have to replace the complete unit
Hi, hopefully you will see this. I am looking at buying an 09 T5. The one I'm looking at is in good condition but PCV needs replacing. It would be a 2 hour drive to get the car home. Should I look at getting it replaced as I don't want to damage it by driving it home and then replacing it?
Thank you ❤️👍🏻
Happy to help :)
Some top caps are solid one piece -no slots to place pry tool in-still underline is visible,only place to try to stick screwdriver in?Are they still removable,anybody knows ?Do not want to pry open and break top cover and ruin whole part?Hope somebody knows ,thanks in advance. Car Volvo 2008 c30 T5
Did you end up figuring this out?
@@VarunJoshi sure,easy fix
I don't know if I'm just not getting enough leverage but I cannot get the cap to pop off at all
How does this system work? Does pressure pull the diaphragm or?
Maybe before installing the new diaphragm next time . To let it soak overnight in 303 Protectant . Then wiping it dry and installing .
Great video. I'm doing the same on my XC70 which I believe the diaphragm will work. However, the brittle cap basically broke at all the snap ons. When taking it off. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement cap?
Thank you! As far as I know Volvo doesn't sell a replacement so a used route is the only way. Either from someone parting out a car privately or from an auto wrecking yard.
Hi there, on my 2.5t ford i just did the replacement of the diaphram. Installing the cap with the spring correctly is quite a challenge. I am 100% sure the cap is closed correctly, however how the spring inside is sitting exactly i am not sure.
I dont have a wistling noise or exsessive vacuum at dipstick or filler cap.
Is it possible the diaphram is not correctly installed without having the symphoms?
Dude, seriously, how'd you get the lower part of that airbox snorkel off? Is there some trick to it? Do I just have to be ultra strong or what? I can't figure out how to get that detached from the airbox so I can get in to get to that pcv cap
Update: nevermind. Thanks for making the video
You can now get the part from IPD
Can you post the link?
@@4DIYers www.ipdusa.com/products/21634/140065-volvo-oil-filter-separator-box-diaphragm-aftermarket-22438685-31338685?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAjw44jrBRAHEiwAZ9igKCnn0TmOhqzDk2rDVEib2WyHJb4CjxQrQyCFri4x_VQtZMTbVnvP3RoCOtUQAvD_BwE
Excellent, thank you!
I don't know if it's my car or what but I replaced this diaphragm last year and today 6/11/2021 had to replace it again !!! 🤔 But now the engine light stood on !! 🤨
Besides the noise, what other symptoms will this cause?
It's all mentioned in the video along with the video description.
Hi. Thanks for posting this video. I was about to order the whole assembly and found by chance the diaphragm on the IPD website listed for the natural aspirated non-turbo 2008-10 v70 P3 3.2 engine. Would install be the same/is the diaphragm cap also removable for non turbo engines? Access is certainly much easier.
Thanks for this. I was able to order the part directly from vanos-bmw in Russia for $15, with $10 shipping. The drawback is that it takes a month to arrive. Worked on my 2012 S60. A question, when I popped the cap, it was very grungy inside. Is this something I should be concerned about?
Flush the whole system. I reckon you have some mileage on yours ?
@@masaboren2743 Yeah, approaching 90k. Tips on flushing?
I had this problem, I pulled out the dipstick a little to quiet the whistle, drove about 5 miles and now i'm getting exhaust in the coolant. Could doing that cause a blown head gasket?
I ve been trying to remove the cap but is really hard, I don't want to brake it, is any other way? Thank you
Why when you are removing the cap you change the tool without showing the tool being used? I can see how the frame stops and appear a thinner tool which is the one you use to open the cap.
Is the vacuum on the oil cap a suction or blowing?