Lot's of Information in this one guys, remember whether you are removing the housing or just the cap to replace the membrane/diaphragm, I would highly recommend to check the pipes for splits or any blockages. Due to the vast amount of engine's that this type of PCV valve assembly is included in, I listed websites and engine details in the description below. You should have all the information you need to repair this. Thanks for watching 🙏 🙏🙏
So my question is does the Volvo s40 1.8 2004 does it have the same set up ? I've done the glove test and it is blowing the glove up. The car only has 84,000 on the clock. Really really great video my only problem is I don't know if my car has the same set up. 🏁🤝
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and uploading Gerard. Followed it pretty much as you suggest. I’m guessing this car was a facelift as there were no similar connectors on my ECU (the red ones you un-clip). I have a pre-facelift and I just unscrewed the ECU and swung it out of the way. Airbox removal is the hardest part but once you locate the lugs on the engine block and notice the angle that they sit at, it gives you an advantage. Ford wanted £256 for the new unit so I popped to Volvo and paid £180. Enjoy your ko-fi 😃
Had that failure on my Volvo S40 II 2 years ago (model year 2005 - engine had about 125.000km). The Volvo dealership was not very helpful. After diagnosing the problem myself with the help of the internet, I was looking for a reasonably priced oil filter housing, but they are always quite expensive as new parts. Through some internet forum I got the hint for a replacement seal - not from Ford, not from Volvo, but from some small shop in Russia... ordered it for about 30€, waited 2,5 weeks and after that, replaced the seal with the oil filter housing still mounted to the engine. It was fiddly, but afterwards, everything was as it should be.
If the cap is removed safely and has no damage to it after removal, then there no issue with diaphragm type repair. Should the cap become damaged it is most likely a whole assembly replacement. I have not found any caps for sale separately. Good job in diagnosing the fault yourself 👍
Very, very helpful! Do you know what is the whistling? One would think that its the air blowing through the broken membrane, but then opening the oil cap should amplify it even more as the air flow is now unobstructed
I replaced mine I made sure i installed it the same way it came out! Howling gone but still getting suction at the oil filler and dipstick! I'm thinking just replacing the entire oil housing!!
as far as I understand it so far, after watching a ton of related content (mostly about volvo though) some delicate suction is required. This is what seals the membrane.@@mitsuevo8mr
Would you recommend replacing the just diaphragm as preventative maintenance? On my Volvo C30 2.4i the diaphragm cap is easily accessible without taking anything off.
My focus st has the exact same fault code but does not make that noise what can be the problem? There is some oil laying on the oilfilterhousing aswell😕
Great info! I have a volvo s40 2.4i, with looks like the exact parts. I actually just replaced the diaphragm for about $25. After the fix, which did have a torn diaphragm, the engine still has suction on filler cap and dipstick. Is this normal?
see robert dyi's videos about it. Do a glove test - cover the filler hole with a glove and if it's being sucked in - you are ok. If the glove is getting glown up you have a clogged system.
Thank you so much for the informative video. My 1.5 ford tdci engine smokes bleu just when the engine is warm. Two barres in the dashboard temperature gauge. Is due to the EGR. PCV or piston rings. No smoke when engine is hot. 85C•. Any idea ? Thank you .
Hi I have the same problem with a focus st mk2, it sucks and when hot it starts to whistle and by unclogging the oil cap the whistling stops except that although I have changed the membrane it is still the same phenomenon of heavy suction and hot hissing some idea what else can cause this please I'm desperate :(
So I have been wracking my brain for like, a year, trying to figure out why when we replaced the PCV oil trap on a 3.2L volvo, it now "honks" from the PCV diaphragm, either coming off the brake or just while idling, about every 5 seconds. The sound is for sure coming from the diaphragm of the replacement, and even replacing the diaphragm on the replacement oil catch a second time, we get the same thing. The design on those is even simpler - press cap, rubber diaphragm, and a single coil spring, there's an inlet (outlet?) under the diaphragm to the side of the central outlet(Inlet?), and then the central outlet(inlet?) -- any thoughts on why that all may be? It's been hell even trying to get an answer out of Volvo and they're the ones who built the dang things.
same problem with xc9o v8. strange pumping noise i replaced the whole pcv!! no change. tjere is not much to clean neither, pcv there just regulates vacuum. i have now v8 that gjves darthvader breathjng sounds. could you solve tour problem and can share some tips? i have a large vacuum suction in dipstick and oil cap so vents i side engine should be ok as vacuum is reaching both down and top of the engine.
@@biachpiach I've posted elsewhere on this, but if it's still making a 'honk' (like a goose or duck) then the pcv replacement you received did not have the diaphragm fully seated from the supplier you bought it from, you may need to make a jig to clamp it on more firmly in a vice, it takes a lot more force than expected seating those properly. Darth vader sounds I'm not familiar with, the v8's have a slightly different setup than the 3.0 or 3.2 Si6, but other seal failures can affect it. Also, suction at the dip stick is good as long as it's not a really hard suction. Usually if a pcv is bad you'll see oil foaming on the dipstick, or smoke blowing out of the dipstick neck when you pull it out. Sorry I can't help more than that without being hands on, it's finnicky tracking down pcv issues on most of these cars
spoke with a volvo service, guy says there is oil trap box, that rarely anyone replaces. it can be partly blocked. what helped too mas right rpms at idle. i had misfire code, replaced coil, rpm went up and less noise now from PCV. i also replaced seals on dipstick and oil cap. next i will replace seal under oil cap(is some form of plastic neck attached to the valve covers). so basically i go through sealing out all vacuum leaks. my theory now is that slight leaks reduce vacuum, pcv opens a bit then closes fast making the sound. since leak is small and suction is good it "pumps" in an on/ off fashion. probably pcv is not calibrated to work with this tiny leaks to stay just a little open and it cycles through
I just discovered a clogged PCV valve on my 2008 Volvo V50 1.6d. I only bought the car 3 week ago with 275.000km (170.900mi). The whole engine is dirty from oil. Approved and official mechanics basically told be to scrap the car or replace the engine. Does anybody think there's any other way?
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage The battery negative is right there in front and closer to you, but you instead chose to disconnect the positive... I wonder why?
This doesn’t solve the issue - what causes the diaphragm to split? The system is clogged - this solves the noise but this pressure will eventually blow the seals if you don’t replace the unit :P
6:10 It's not a good idea to throw the plastic cover on the floor... they can crack, they are very expensive, and on older cars they are impossible to get new from the dealer anymore...
![How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1O4r1ftgJaQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Lot's of Information in this one guys, remember whether you are removing the housing or just the cap to replace the membrane/diaphragm, I would highly recommend to check the pipes for splits or any blockages.
Due to the vast amount of engine's that this type of PCV valve assembly is included in, I listed websites and engine details in the description below.
You should have all the information you need to repair this. Thanks for watching 🙏 🙏🙏
So my question is does the Volvo s40 1.8 2004 does it have the same set up ? I've done the glove test and it is blowing the glove up. The car only has 84,000 on the clock.
Really really great video my only problem is I don't know if my car has the same set up. 🏁🤝
instablaster
Thanks for taking the time to make this video and uploading Gerard. Followed it pretty much as you suggest. I’m guessing this car was a facelift as there were no similar connectors on my ECU (the red ones you un-clip). I have a pre-facelift and I just unscrewed the ECU and swung it out of the way. Airbox removal is the hardest part but once you locate the lugs on the engine block and notice the angle that they sit at, it gives you an advantage. Ford wanted £256 for the new unit so I popped to Volvo and paid £180.
Enjoy your ko-fi 😃
Had that failure on my Volvo S40 II 2 years ago (model year 2005 - engine had about 125.000km).
The Volvo dealership was not very helpful. After diagnosing the problem myself with the help of the internet, I was looking for a reasonably priced oil filter housing, but they are always quite expensive as new parts. Through some internet forum I got the hint for a replacement seal - not from Ford, not from Volvo, but from some small shop in Russia... ordered it for about 30€, waited 2,5 weeks and after that, replaced the seal with the oil filter housing still mounted to the engine. It was fiddly, but afterwards, everything was as it should be.
If the cap is removed safely and has no damage to it after removal, then there no issue with diaphragm type repair. Should the cap become damaged it is most likely a whole assembly replacement. I have not found any caps for sale separately.
Good job in diagnosing the fault yourself 👍
Replaced diaphragm in my c30 without filter housing removed
Thank you, very helpful Gerard and instructive. Very little info otherwise available on these Kugas.
Great video that's 1 clean engine bay
Thanks Robert, it is a well looked after focus 👌
Very, very helpful! Do you know what is the whistling? One would think that its the air blowing through the broken membrane, but then opening the oil cap should amplify it even more as the air flow is now unobstructed
Thank you, I learn too much with your explanation. Salute.
🙏🙏
Great stuff! Thank you! Was the suction from the oil cap gone after the repair? Or is it normal and just the whistling was a symptom?
I replaced mine I made sure i installed it the same way it came out! Howling gone but still getting suction at the oil filler and dipstick! I'm thinking just replacing the entire oil housing!!
as far as I understand it so far, after watching a ton of related content (mostly about volvo though) some delicate suction is required. This is what seals the membrane.@@mitsuevo8mr
Had this failure on Astra H replaced rocker cover great video thanks!
Cheers Alan, I am delighted you enjoyed the video. I appreciate the comment 🙏
What do you recommend to clean the engine? Removed assembly and a lot of crud/sludge in holes.
Would you recommend replacing the just diaphragm as preventative maintenance? On my Volvo C30 2.4i the diaphragm cap is easily accessible without taking anything off.
Thank you a great teaching video.
Thanks for the kind words Paul 🙏🙏
Good job Gerard, well explained, very clean engine bay on that car:)
Cheers Pat, 🙏🙏 thanks very much
Thanks for your help, it was very useful!!! Greetings from México City!!
My focus st has the exact same fault code but does not make that noise what can be the problem? There is some oil laying on the oilfilterhousing aswell😕
How much that whole replacement cost? Any cheaper parts to just replace?
How do you get the oil drain hose out of that oil sump that sits right under the pcv oil box on the volvo 240? Without dropping the pan ?
Great info! I have a volvo s40 2.4i, with looks like the exact parts. I actually just replaced the diaphragm for about $25. After the fix, which did have a torn diaphragm, the engine still has suction on filler cap and dipstick. Is this normal?
see robert dyi's videos about it. Do a glove test - cover the filler hole with a glove and if it's being sucked in - you are ok. If the glove is getting glown up you have a clogged system.
@@TheMarcQ Hold on... I thought suction at the cap is bad? In this video it's showing suction is bad?
Brilliantly done.Thanks
Thank you Peter
Super thoroughness! Sherlock Holmes and Motor Man in one, not to mention step by step tutorial.
❤️❤️🤗🙏🙏 Thanks a mill Martyn, you are very kind to say. 🙌
Thank you so much for the informative video. My 1.5 ford tdci engine smokes bleu just when the engine is warm. Two barres in the dashboard temperature gauge. Is due to the EGR. PCV or piston rings. No smoke when engine is hot. 85C•. Any idea ? Thank you .
Would this cause the check engine light to come on????
Are there any of the same diaphragms on ebay for sale
Would a bad PCV valve cause oil consumption
yes. if it's stuck on open it will cause oil consumption and misfires
Brilliant, thank you, just changing the rubber would be enough to solve it?
Hi I have the same problem with a focus st mk2, it sucks and when hot it starts to whistle and by unclogging the oil cap the whistling stops except that although I have changed the membrane it is still the same phenomenon of heavy suction and hot hissing some idea what else can cause this please I'm desperate :(
Hi, just wondering if you ever got it sorted and what was the fix?
did u fix
Very informative cheers
So I have been wracking my brain for like, a year, trying to figure out why when we replaced the PCV oil trap on a 3.2L volvo, it now "honks" from the PCV diaphragm, either coming off the brake or just while idling, about every 5 seconds. The sound is for sure coming from the diaphragm of the replacement, and even replacing the diaphragm on the replacement oil catch a second time, we get the same thing. The design on those is even simpler - press cap, rubber diaphragm, and a single coil spring, there's an inlet (outlet?) under the diaphragm to the side of the central outlet(Inlet?), and then the central outlet(inlet?) -- any thoughts on why that all may be? It's been hell even trying to get an answer out of Volvo and they're the ones who built the dang things.
same problem with xc9o v8. strange pumping noise i replaced the whole pcv!! no change. tjere is not much to clean neither, pcv there just regulates vacuum. i have now v8 that gjves darthvader breathjng sounds. could you solve tour problem and can share some tips? i have a large vacuum suction in dipstick and oil cap so vents i side engine should be ok as vacuum is reaching both down and top of the engine.
@@biachpiach I've posted elsewhere on this, but if it's still making a 'honk' (like a goose or duck) then the pcv replacement you received did not have the diaphragm fully seated from the supplier you bought it from, you may need to make a jig to clamp it on more firmly in a vice, it takes a lot more force than expected seating those properly. Darth vader sounds I'm not familiar with, the v8's have a slightly different setup than the 3.0 or 3.2 Si6, but other seal failures can affect it. Also, suction at the dip stick is good as long as it's not a really hard suction. Usually if a pcv is bad you'll see oil foaming on the dipstick, or smoke blowing out of the dipstick neck when you pull it out. Sorry I can't help more than that without being hands on, it's finnicky tracking down pcv issues on most of these cars
spoke with a volvo service, guy says there is oil trap box, that rarely anyone replaces. it can be partly blocked. what helped too mas right rpms at idle. i had misfire code, replaced coil, rpm went up and less noise now from PCV. i also replaced seals on dipstick and oil cap. next i will replace seal under oil cap(is some form of plastic neck attached to the valve covers). so basically i go through sealing out all vacuum leaks. my theory now is that slight leaks reduce vacuum, pcv opens a bit then closes fast making the sound. since leak is small and suction is good it "pumps" in an on/ off fashion. probably pcv is not calibrated to work with this tiny leaks to stay just a little open and it cycles through
Thanks I thought it was my Ford focus st mk2 piston rings
I just discovered a clogged PCV valve on my 2008 Volvo V50 1.6d. I only bought the car 3 week ago with 275.000km (170.900mi). The whole engine is dirty from oil. Approved and official mechanics basically told be to scrap the car or replace the engine. Does anybody think there's any other way?
I changed this diaphragm on my T5 s40 and the issue is not solved
Plz hlp
Is this fix for all t5 motors including the AWD models as well?
Believe so mate
Just curious.. I replaced the diaphragm and now my 09 C30 smokes out the exhaust. Any suggestions ?
If it turbo. Then start there.
That oil filter looks a real pain to replace in situ ?
Yep, not that nice 🤦♂️
amazing info thank you
Thanks Mario
Great info
That was so informative and helpful i subscribed even though i don't own a car like this
Thanks Paul, it's very much appreciated.
Good video
Why do you disconnect the positive instead of the negative?
??
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage The battery negative is right there in front and closer to you, but you instead chose to disconnect the positive... I wonder why?
@@gotj the negative is at the back
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage OMG. I forgot to take the medication LOL. Cheers.
@@gotj all good, 👍 it happens to us all 😁
What are the symptoms of a failed PCV?
I have a focus mk2 1.6 tdci.
cheers
U will get a noise that sounds like a dry bearing, but its that pcv valve trying to fool you.
What engine is this on
Are there any option for cheaper solution on volvo T6?
What year ?
This doesn’t solve the issue - what causes the diaphragm to split? The system is clogged - this solves the noise but this pressure will eventually blow the seals if you don’t replace the unit :P
Sir, where is the pcv valve located in ford aspire
U got it
I don't really see where the torx go in
Good info but you don't have to completely remove it.
6:10 It's not a good idea to throw the plastic cover on the floor... they can crack, they are very expensive, and on older cars they are impossible to get new from the dealer anymore...
It'll be fine
Why you didn't change only the diaphragm ? It cost about 23 dollars with shipping and handling ..
Clearly you didn’t watch the whole video 🙄
this shitty thing (diaphragme) kosts me the second time 250€ for my volvo?! nice
The diaphragm is £2.30 but the customer wanted the complete housing £250 what a pratt
thanks! Very informative