Such artistic shots! I could easily see a room full of students simply sitting and watching these videos absorbing every second of such beauty! Great video as always pal!
RowanTaylor my man. You are the Bob Ross of blacksmithing. I know this video is old but I'm just seeing it and no joke I followed step one and it came out pretty damn well. I messed up somewhere with my fire being too hot I think but that's smithing for ya lol I'm a hard to impress kind of guy and I truly believe you have a talent for your work (obviously) and for cinematography and teaching!
Great video. Love the information of your projects. You never have issues with welding and not using flux. I find that very interesting, keep up the great videos. 😁
Thanks Jeffrey :) It is all down to good fire management really. Have a peep at my scarf welding video for more info. Fluxless welding gets drilled into us in training over here!
Looking awesome! I live in the part of the U.S. were the fur trade was going was going strong in the 1820's and trade items were important so I find this video very interesting.
It was used during the dark ages in viking and Anglo Saxon ironwork more, though I have seen it in a couple of trade axes as well - though I think it was less commonly used by the 18th century. Have a peep at my Anglo-Saxon adze video for a much chunkier version.
That little transition between the blade and the eye was for nail removing :-) it should be made with chisel so it's sharp and can actually catch a nail. Works like a crowbar. In Poland it's still common feature in many axes, as they're used very often for prepping some firewood from junk. And you never know what's there :-P It's good to check every piece of wood before splitting, noone wants to damage an axe on some stupid nail ;-) Also it was (and is) used for axe hanging on the wall hook/nail.
Gosh, that makes so much sense! I have seen shingling hatchets with a nail remover made into them, but that tends to be as a slot in the body of the axe. I'm glad that I asked now, it makes sense. Thank you for the information! It will be finished in Part 3 so I will make sure to work it in.
+RowanTaylor I'm glad I could help :-) My grandpa hanged his axe like that and my dad removed some rusty nails from old pine planks with it. That is the only reason why I know that :-P Notice that splitting axes and battle axes doesn't have that little slot, as there's no need for that. Only the smaller, onehanded ones. Can't wait to see part 3, I enjoy your videos so much :-) Best regards, Greg
Rowan, you mentioned the use of your rivet header tool in this video. You used it to remove the drift from the axe head, seemed a large rivet header. Would you do a video showing the forging of those large rivets? Be very interesting to see?
Okay, so the bulk value of skins (at least in canada in the 1800's) puts a single high quality beaver pelt at around 2 dollars wholesale, or what the trapper could expect to get paid. (2$ back then is roughly 48 today) but trade goods didn't really have a set value. That axe basically had an initial cost, and then the mark up that a fur broker added onto it. Likely, it would have been fairly cheap. Most tools back then didn't have a ton of value, and wrought iron was plentiful enough to where I don't think this item would have cost the full 2 dollars. Probably something like 75c or so. Of course, a trapper/native wouldn't be trading for *just* the axe, so it would all add up at some point. After the brokers got it to New York or Vancouver, that pelt was worth around 7.50.
In a historical context, why would it be better to do an asymmetrical weld as compared to a punched eye or a folded axe? I can see that it would save material but it seems more technical for something that was made for colonial trade.
This is how axes have been traditionally made, from the iron age up until very recent times. Punching is substantially less practical for many reasons. One, as you mentioned, is the amount of material used, a second would be the difficulty of producing thin axes, wide headed axes, odd shaped axes and so forth. It also requires specialized (and puts harder strain on) tooling. Adding to all this you have to consider that forge-welding is significally easier with wrought iron than with modern steel. Lastly, forge-welding was every day practice and even if you were to punch the eye on an axe, you'd likely forge-weld in a steel bit regardless, so the process of welding has to be mastered either way. Consider punching a thin and slim axe like this one, or a wide headed lumbering axe. What would the billet look like? How much effort would it take the smith and his apprentices to spread the cheek and bit?
Such artistic shots! I could easily see a room full of students simply sitting and watching these videos absorbing every second of such beauty! Great video as always pal!
Thanks Craig :D
Aartwood dude for real!
RowanTaylor my man. You are the Bob Ross of blacksmithing. I know this video is old but I'm just seeing it and no joke I followed step one and it came out pretty damn well. I messed up somewhere with my fire being too hot I think but that's smithing for ya lol I'm a hard to impress kind of guy and I truly believe you have a talent for your work (obviously) and for cinematography and teaching!
Thanks for showing the finished eye first. Now I can understand the WHY of each step you take to get there.
Great series of videos ! ! !
I'm binge watching your videos after Michael Budd told me about you.
Very relaxing and informative. Keep doing what you're doing!
Thats just amazing work! I definitely need a flat anvil instead of my dented scrap-container anvil find haha.
Great video. Love the information of your projects. You never have issues with welding and not using flux. I find that very interesting, keep up the great videos. 😁
Thanks Jeffrey :) It is all down to good fire management really. Have a peep at my scarf welding video for more info. Fluxless welding gets drilled into us in training over here!
Looking awesome! I live in the part of the U.S. were the fur trade was going was going strong in the 1820's and trade items were important so I find this video very interesting.
Fantastic! It is quite nice to be able to see where history was happening
I'm enjoying the series .
I've not seen this type of welded seam before. It's good to see other options.
It was used during the dark ages in viking and Anglo Saxon ironwork more, though I have seen it in a couple of trade axes as well - though I think it was less commonly used by the 18th century. Have a peep at my Anglo-Saxon adze video for a much chunkier version.
That little transition between the blade and the eye was for nail removing :-) it should be made with chisel so it's sharp and can actually catch a nail. Works like a crowbar. In Poland it's still common feature in many axes, as they're used very often for prepping some firewood from junk. And you never know what's there :-P It's good to check every piece of wood before splitting, noone wants to damage an axe on some stupid nail ;-) Also it was (and is) used for axe hanging on the wall hook/nail.
Gosh, that makes so much sense! I have seen shingling hatchets with a nail remover made into them, but that tends to be as a slot in the body of the axe. I'm glad that I asked now, it makes sense. Thank you for the information! It will be finished in Part 3 so I will make sure to work it in.
+RowanTaylor I'm glad I could help :-) My grandpa hanged his axe like that and my dad removed some rusty nails from old pine planks with it. That is the only reason why I know that :-P Notice that splitting axes and battle axes doesn't have that little slot, as there's no need for that. Only the smaller, onehanded ones.
Can't wait to see part 3, I enjoy your videos so much :-)
Best regards, Greg
Thanks Greg :D
hangs in the shed nicely on a nail. That is what I use it for.
That is bloody interesting! thanks for the info, mate! I love such little facts.
That trade axe is awesome!!
Plough, that was the best axe tutorial I saw.. well, not the best, but the most useful for me kkkkkkkkk
Awesome job man. You make it look so easy!
I love watching your videos. Ive seen them all and ive re watched many times. Any plans to do anymore?
Thanks again Rowan, I hope to keep in touch.
No worries, Levi. Was a pleasure to have you over. My internet has been down since Friday so I'm hoping to post up those pics today!
Rowan, you mentioned the use of your rivet header tool in this video. You used it to remove the drift from the axe head, seemed a large rivet header. Would you do a video showing the forging of those large rivets? Be very interesting to see?
great work!
Спасибо за видео. Очень традиционно
What would a trade axe go for? In skins, pelts, corn, etc.?
That is a very good question and I have to say that I don't know, though I will have a look into it.
+RowanTaylor I think I'm overthinking it- say, two hours worth of labour, plus etc., doesn't scale into beaver pelts... Ta for the reply!
Okay, so the bulk value of skins (at least in canada in the 1800's) puts a single high quality beaver pelt at around 2 dollars wholesale, or what the trapper could expect to get paid. (2$ back then is roughly 48 today) but trade goods didn't really have a set value. That axe basically had an initial cost, and then the mark up that a fur broker added onto it. Likely, it would have been fairly cheap. Most tools back then didn't have a ton of value, and wrought iron was plentiful enough to where I don't think this item would have cost the full 2 dollars. Probably something like 75c or so. Of course, a trapper/native wouldn't be trading for *just* the axe, so it would all add up at some point.
After the brokers got it to New York or Vancouver, that pelt was worth around 7.50.
oi reckon they does the set down coz it looks noice.
Aesthetics. :P
Hey man! Hope you still read you comments... What is the name of this folding style (like a 9 shape)? Where can I find more content on this?
In a historical context, why would it be better to do an asymmetrical weld as compared to a punched eye or a folded axe? I can see that it would save material but it seems more technical for something that was made for colonial trade.
This is how axes have been traditionally made, from the iron age up until very recent times. Punching is substantially less practical for many reasons. One, as you mentioned, is the amount of material used, a second would be the difficulty of producing thin axes, wide headed axes, odd shaped axes and so forth. It also requires specialized (and puts harder strain on) tooling. Adding to all this you have to consider that forge-welding is significally easier with wrought iron than with modern steel. Lastly, forge-welding was every day practice and even if you were to punch the eye on an axe, you'd likely forge-weld in a steel bit regardless, so the process of welding has to be mastered either way.
Consider punching a thin and slim axe like this one, or a wide headed lumbering axe. What would the billet look like? How much effort would it take the smith and his apprentices to spread the cheek and bit?
Do you sell these? I would be interested in buy one.
Make more trade tools.
I can see a seeaam. . .
;)
Shhhhhhhhhh!
It's.... it's.... IT'S BEAUTIFUL