As trade items in 17th and 18th century North America, these were supplied to the natives without handles. The round, tapered eye makes it quick and easy to adapt a round tree branch as a self tightening handle without the time and effort needed to carve out a flattened teardrop split- and-wedged handle end required of a conventional axe head. Have used this type of axe for decades and if I were reduced to taking but a single iron tool into the woods with me, without hesitation this would be it. Great set of videos!
Thanks Olof, that was a really interesting insight into them. I must say that I was impressed with the handling of this axe as I wasn't sure about the large eye and lack of poll, however the sheer volume of wood needed for the handle to wedge into the eye seems to replace the weight of the poll.
Rowan, I have enjoyed watching all three parts and the outcome is wonderful! IF I ever get some wrought iron, I will try to make one of these, myself! KUDOS!
Yes indeed, a feast for the eyes. And a joy to wield I'm sure. A perfectly serviceable and useful tool. Made to the highest quality and a piece I would treasure. A heirloom piece for sure.
One point to add about both the detachable handle and the notch between the blade and the eye on the lower side. On the American frontier, if your axe handle broke there was nowhere to buy another one and a wedged handle might be impossible to force out of the axe eye. If you needed one, you needed to make one. There was an immense supply of wood available and in an emergency you could shape a new handle directly with the axe head in the hand and a makeshift wood baton. Further, the axe head is shaped for use in the hand to skin game if that was your only available blade.
I would make the eye of the axe slightly ovular to prevent the handle from twisting during use. Also, leaving some excess wood on the end of the handle allows for the handle to stay tighter as you use the axe over time. Don't take my word as gospel, I'm just speaking from my own experience.
I realize I'm 2 years down the road but, would you sell it and, if so, for how much! I doubt I could afford it because I only have small disability checks for the income for my wife and me but, if I could afford it I'd love to have one! For over 25 years I was an American Fur Trade Era re-enactor and used such an axe. Of course mine was a modern day reproduction done with mild and tool steels! Let me know if this one, or one like it might be available and how much it would cost me! THANKS! I love your videos and watch them over and over! I do SOME Blacksmithing but, with the disability, my making things is limited to small things and I have NO access to wrought iron to even try to make one of these fine, historical trade axes! Thanks, again for all the great videos!
Sunflower oil - I've always used it for heat treating. Seems to do fine in a small container like the pan but doesn't do very well in bigger containers as the heat is slow to move around.
First of all: thank you for your work, these are the bast quality smithing videos I've seen so far! Question: Did you take the measurements of the trade axe from an original? Because in my opinion the eye and the handle seem a bit bulky, most trade axe replicas I've encountered have had smaller diameter eyes; but that could also be misinformation on my part.
I forgot to film that bit with the big files but you see it with the needle file @1:35 like Milton Tucker says. You basically just sharpen your chalk on the file.Soapstone chalk is best.
So, you're only the second person I have ever come across to use hot oil as a way of tempering. What makes you use this method? Does it have any advantages over tempering by torch or using an oven?
When I first started making knives 10 years ago (!) it was the easiest way to get an even heat around the blades as it is slow to heat up and slow to cool down so you don't get much fluctuation in the temperature. I've just kind of stuck with it because I don't really make enough edged tools to justify spending the money on a PID controlled kiln, though that would be the dream!
I do do it that way sometimes - I have a pair of tongs which I welded some bi stock to the jaws on and I will preheat the jaws and just close them on the spine of the blade and let the heat bleed in. Takes a while though. The oil temper means I can just pop it in there and do something else for a while thus making my day a bit more productive
The pillenwerfer is correct, it is in fact Oak. There is usually a lot of it lying around as the workshop next door is a timber workshop for the canal where they use a lot of Oak and Elm.
i imagine corners were left sharp as they are useful for de-barking staves and branches.....and denting and cracking various items...aside from the unnessesary wear on files as well as time....as time is money....it wasnt a hobby back in the day.
I quite like oak as it is a nice wood if a bit heavy. I usually use hickory for most of my handles as it is pre-shaped but this one needed a special shape.
Oak is usually straight grained, and cheaper than hickory. For some reason a lot of people think you can't make a good handle out of anything but hickory. . .
This piece of oak had a horrible gnarly bit in the middle but yeah, usually it is nice and straight. I think that the idea that you an't use anything but hickory is just a habit thing, a bit like people thinking you can't fireweld without flux. It's a bit of a myth which is hard to shake.
Really nice axe. Thankyou for uploading this Rowan
Thanks Adam :) No worries, I enjoy sharing it.
Very cool, Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mate :) Nice Dog, he/she's a very handsome chap!
As trade items in 17th and 18th century North America, these were supplied to the natives without handles. The round, tapered eye makes it quick and easy to adapt a round tree branch as a self tightening handle without the time and effort needed to carve out a flattened teardrop split- and-wedged handle end required of a conventional axe head. Have used this type of axe for decades and if I were reduced to taking but a single iron tool into the woods with me, without hesitation this would be it. Great set of videos!
Thanks Olof, that was a really interesting insight into them. I must say that I was impressed with the handling of this axe as I wasn't sure about the large eye and lack of poll, however the sheer volume of wood needed for the handle to wedge into the eye seems to replace the weight of the poll.
Beautiful work mate!!! Enjoyed the process..
Thanks Charles :) Glad you enjoyed it!
Yes! Finally a proper tomahawk smithing process! Thanks man!
Really nice. I've enjoyed all three parts of this!
Thanks Adam :) Glad you've enjoyed the series!
Turned out amazing!
Thanks Nick :)
I enjoyed your video very much. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Rand, I'm glad you liked it, and no worries!
Beautiful result!
Thanks mate :) I'm rarely happy with my own work but I do like this one!
that my friend was an awesome series. I could hardly wait for the next one in sequence. As always job well done and thanks for keeping the craft alive
Thanks mate :) I'm glad I kept you on your toes!
these videos have inspired me to try and forge a railroad spike axe!
Go ahead, Evan. It takes practice, practice, practice mixed with frustration and throwing of hammers, but when you get there, it feels great!
+RowanTaylor thanks! :D you put out some really great content
Haha, thanks mate :) I think you will like the next series!
Looks great, I enjoyed to see the whole axe being done from scratch to finished tool. Hope you gets lots of views!
Thanks mate :)Glad you enjoyed it!
Very nice. I am going to try it once the weather cools off
Thanks Frank :) Good luck!
Rowan, I have enjoyed watching all three parts and the outcome is wonderful!
IF I ever get some wrought iron, I will try to make one of these, myself!
KUDOS!
These videos are so enjoyable to watch.
Thanks mate :D It really warms my heart when people say it as it makes it all worthwhile :)
sehr gut gemacht.
Dankuchen elkschmiede :)
Yes indeed, a feast for the eyes. And a joy to wield I'm sure. A perfectly serviceable and useful tool. Made to the highest quality and a piece I would treasure. A heirloom piece for sure.
B
Well done! Thank you, your videos provided some much needed instruction!
same here!:) beautiful work mate!
Haha, thanks pal :)
One point to add about both the detachable handle and the notch between the blade and the eye on the lower side. On the American frontier, if your axe handle broke there was nowhere to buy another one and a wedged handle might be impossible to force out of the axe eye. If you needed one, you needed to make one. There was an immense supply of wood available and in an emergency you could shape a new handle directly with the axe head in the hand and a makeshift wood baton. Further, the axe head is shaped for use in the hand to skin game if that was your only available blade.
Axe head's where valuable, handles well what's a good branch an a hour's work?
Nice to see a tomahawk made in the traditional way . Great job !
That is some handsome axe.
I would make the eye of the axe slightly ovular to prevent the handle from twisting during use. Also, leaving some excess wood on the end of the handle allows for the handle to stay tighter as you use the axe over time. Don't take my word as gospel, I'm just speaking from my own experience.
You are Brilliant Rowan,your instruction so easy to follow and the camera work superb!!!
Very well done my friend. I will be watching this over and over to reference it while I make one.
Clever lubricating your flower with chalk. I've never seen that before.
love your work.
Thanks very much Natasha :) It's nice to have a job I enjoy!
Cool little axe, I've yet to try the asymmetric eye, will have to give it a go after seeing this.
looks awesome!
Thanks mate :)
I realize I'm 2 years down the road but, would you sell it and, if so, for how much!
I doubt I could afford it because I only have small disability checks for the income for my wife and me but, if I could afford it I'd love to have one!
For over 25 years I was an American Fur Trade Era re-enactor and used such an axe. Of course mine was a modern day reproduction done with mild and tool steels!
Let me know if this one, or one like it might be available and how much it would cost me!
THANKS! I love your videos and watch them over and over!
I do SOME Blacksmithing but, with the disability, my making things is limited to small things and I have NO access to wrought iron to even try to make one of these fine, historical trade axes!
Thanks, again for all the great videos!
Hope all is well. You posted some really good content and I for one would love to more.
It’s been two years since your last video. I want some more...said in an Oliver Twist voice.
Nice work!!
frikkin beautiful man!!
Great work and nice video!
A spoke shave might be a bit faster than using a rasp for making the handle.
Muito obrigado pelo seu ensinamento.
looks great. what is the approximate thickness of the blade?
Thanks mate :) It is about 8mm just below the eye, tapering to 5mm just above the edge-bevel.
Very nice job!
Great stuff man, I think I’ll do one like this next time. The ferrier rasps work great as well.
Well done ,thank you
Excellent job.
I noticed your Etsy link and other links are broken. You should update them, so we can find you. You do great work!
Love your videos, wish you would do more
awesome piece and great videos! what type of oil did you use for the temper bath?
Sunflower oil - I've always used it for heat treating. Seems to do fine in a small container like the pan but doesn't do very well in bigger containers as the heat is slow to move around.
Rowan, excellent job brother, when and where did you learn to do blacksmithing?
Very Nice
First of all: thank you for your work, these are the bast quality smithing videos I've seen so far!
Question: Did you take the measurements of the trade axe from an original? Because in my opinion the eye and the handle seem a bit bulky, most trade axe replicas I've encountered have had smaller diameter eyes; but that could also be misinformation on my part.
Redemption.
for?
Sweet. Well explained. Didn't see how to subscribe though. Thanks.
Could you explain why you lubricated the file with the chalk? I know that it is to keep it from clogging up but how do you apply the chalk?
You can see him applying it to a file @1:35 in the video.
I forgot to film that bit with the big files but you see it with the needle file @1:35 like Milton Tucker says. You basically just sharpen your chalk on the file.Soapstone chalk is best.
*applause*
Thanks Jack :)
hey no way man just found your channel and I'm loving it so far but if just noticed we use the same boiled linseed oil :-)
Haha, meant to be, mate :)
Awesome job! What medium did you use for temper bath ?
So, you're only the second person I have ever come across to use hot oil as a way of tempering. What makes you use this method? Does it have any advantages over tempering by torch or using an oven?
When I first started making knives 10 years ago (!) it was the easiest way to get an even heat around the blades as it is slow to heat up and slow to cool down so you don't get much fluctuation in the temperature. I've just kind of stuck with it because I don't really make enough edged tools to justify spending the money on a PID controlled kiln, though that would be the dream!
Alright. I guess it more evenly distributes the heat. I usually just use a torch because I like the differential temper.
I do do it that way sometimes - I have a pair of tongs which I welded some bi stock to the jaws on and I will preheat the jaws and just close them on the spine of the blade and let the heat bleed in. Takes a while though. The oil temper means I can just pop it in there and do something else for a while thus making my day a bit more productive
how did you get this beautiful black patina in the end?
wire brushed scale and pine tar after tempering.
What kind of wood did you use for the handle?
I was wondering that as well. It looks like oak but I could be wrong.
I'm thinking Hickory...
The pillenwerfer is correct, it is in fact Oak. There is usually a lot of it lying around as the workshop next door is a timber workshop for the canal where they use a lot of Oak and Elm.
Nicely made useful
i imagine corners were left sharp as they are useful for de-barking staves and branches.....and denting and cracking various items...aside from the unnessesary wear on files as well as time....as time is money....it wasnt a hobby back in the day.
price for one
fransisca
10 em .
Wee-wee.
Indeed!
first
Hahaha, well done. Normally it's either ctantep or phogelbyce!
What kind of wood did you make your handle from?
It was an old piece of oak.
Ah, so I'm not the only one to use oak for handles! Excellent.
I quite like oak as it is a nice wood if a bit heavy. I usually use hickory for most of my handles as it is pre-shaped but this one needed a special shape.
Oak is usually straight grained, and cheaper than hickory. For some reason a lot of people think you can't make a good handle out of anything but hickory. . .
This piece of oak had a horrible gnarly bit in the middle but yeah, usually it is nice and straight. I think that the idea that you an't use anything but hickory is just a habit thing, a bit like people thinking you can't fireweld without flux. It's a bit of a myth which is hard to shake.