The Affordable Combination Plane Stanley 50
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- www.HandToolFinder.com
The Stanley 50 is the stripped-down Combination plane that can do 99% of the things you need a Stanly 50 to do. It is a fantastic beading plane and a great Plow plane. the Stanley 50 combination plane does not have the bells and whistles that the Stanley 45 and the Stanley 55 have, but the Stanley 50 has the Price you want!
Differences between the 45 and 55: • Comparison Between Sta...
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About 3 years ago, I bought a Record 050C (same as Stanley 50 Combination) for £23 on eBay, complete with full set of cutters, unused and still in the box with original papers and stuff because nobody else wanted it (probably because they didn't know what it was). I do work at a local place where there is an old barn full of vintage tools and I came across another full set of rusty cutters for my Record Combi plane (previous version but same fit, in a wood case) and the owner said I could have them, refused my offer of payment. Took them home, cleaned and sharpened them. Happy...! 🙂
Hello is the record 050C ok for tongues as it has no additionnal support for the blade as the 405 has ? Thanks
James has just unknowingly increased the premium of a Stanley 50.
Who’s to say he unknowingly raised the price? Maybe he’s about to sell it...
Thank you. I’ve heard so much about these plains and was hoping for a demonstration.
I bought my Stanley No 50 in the UK on eBay for £80. A little grubby but I bought back in to sparkling condition in 15 minutes. Everything in its original box and full set of of cutters, except for one of the two securing screws that hold the cross cutter nickers. A little annoying because this little screw isn’t easily replaced (so far). Getting used to it now and so much more pleasant to use than the dreaded power router that I have now sold. If you want a safer, quieter workshop then get yourself a Stanley No 50 with wooden handle and lever blade adjuster. You won’t regret it.
I have the Record 050, it compliments my Marples MA44....... MA44 to plough the groove, the 050 comes along and cuts the tongue, no need to swap out irons or cut them all in sequence, I use the 050 for beads sometimes too 😁 prices here are a LOT different tho........ a 50 or 050 will cost ya around 100€, a 45 or 405 will cost ya around 200€, and a 55 (if you can find one) will cost upwards of 400€.
A Veritas plough (can get similar cutters to the 50 or 050) is 180€ here with 1 cutter, the Veritas combo plane is 400€ here with 1 cutter...... but the combo plane is comparable to the 45 or 405, not the 55.
I enjoyed this James, thank you 😁
I found a 46 a long time ago and love it. Had to buy a set of cutters for it but it does very well in plywood and cross grain.
thanks for a great video. i just aquired a #50, later model than the one you show i believe, it has a lever to adjust the cutter depth. great little plane for those quick slots and dadoes. the cutters for my #50 have a toothed back to engage the adjustment lever and the 45 cutters dont have that feature
Excellent! This really helped me decide which plane to get - I found a 50 and will start my journey there. Could you (or have you) done a video on actually using it? I'd love to see how to set it up and see a few different end results. I also need to figure out how to sharpen things but I think you have done a video on this - thank you so much for all you do!
I don't have a video specifically on the 50 but I have several videos on the 45 and 55. Those are much the same and set up. As the sharpening I have a couple videos on sharpening combination plane irons and molding plane irons with a couple different methods if you want to see those.
Just what I needed to know! I had to cut a groove today and ended up using my skil saw 😢 and my router plane. Got the job done! But woulda been much easier (and quieter) with a plough.
Thank you so much James for all the wonderful content and the great work you have been doing to keep the beautiful art of hand tool woodworking alive!
Thanks man! that means a lot!. I will kep them comming for sure. let me know if there is ever anything you want to see.
RIP Stanley 50 price lol
Joking aside, I'd like to find a 50 or, if I'm lucky, a 45. The 55 looks gnarly. Like if you put a handle on a tumbleweed or sea mine.
Plus I'd imagine you can make blades for the 50 if you buy one and don't have any other than what probably came with the plane itself.
Found a 45 for 30$ on Wednesday. I had been looking for one of these for so long I was excited so I started the resto immediately. About an hour in my grinder flung that brass washer under the brass turn key across the room. In a garage filled with shavings… found it today, and then about 30 minutes later I smacked the bowl that had the knickers and those tiny screws that hold them in… I might have screamed out loud. Luckily my shop was super clean by then so those were easy to find.
Lol I've been there and done that
I've got a tongue and groove iron set for my 50's. I've got 2 both grandfather's used them.
Stanley called it a beading plane.
It's my only plow.
I'd use it for rabbits but I've got a 78 for that.
Great video as always James . I was lucky enough to find a complete #50 (including the highly sought after chip breaker) at a antique shop before I found my #45 and as you observed, it does practically all my plough plane tasks . It's a quick grab and go tool that usually has the job done before you would even be done loosening the plethora of wingnuts and finger screws on a 45 . However I would still like to get a #55 because .... well you have to have a #55 . Thanks again for a great channel 👍.
One problem with the video is it implies that the Stanley 50 can accept cutters from the Stanley 45; which it CANNOT! The plane that James has is user modified to accept the Stanley 45 cutters (most likely modified by the previous owner before James purchased it judging from the wood added to the fence; which also CANNOT be done on a standard Stanley 50).
Depending on the Version a 50 also comes with a second "depth stop" which is used for beading. Also cutter compatibility is definately depending on which version of the 50 you have, mine has a depth adjustment which requires litte kerfs in the cutter.
right on. that was something I forgot to mention. the newer ones came with that. I believe it was introduced post war
@@WoodByWrightHowTo James, you need to mention that your Stanley 50 was modified by the previous owner to both accept Stanley 45 cutters and a wooden fence; neither of which can be accommodated by a standard Stanley 50.
I have got Luban no 43 which I think it's a replica of Record no 43 with slight change with the handle, it's smaller than no.50. I am enjoying using it, today I used it to make grooves at the back of a mirror frame that I am working on .
I have a 50 that I got about 3 years ago. Does and really good job. It is not that hard to adjust. I use a very small brass hammer, loosen the holding mechanism and give small taps. Generally easier than some wood body planes I have.
Man, those are some old school tools.
That is how we roll here.
Got a plow plane on my wish list. Good info!
I just got a 1903 stanly no 50 and it has two places for depth stops it was in a local antique shop with all the blades so I got them all together but no depth stops working on making some from hard wood
Been using my 45 a lot recently making sash molding for windows I'm making for our old house.....it works well and is a lot less noisy than my router table.
I was getting a 55 with all the cutters and the box but unfortunately the sale didn't go through. I ended up with a Lewin combination plane, which is a variation on the 45. Complete with a roll of cutters.
For £20.
Excellent, James! Thanks a lot for all the tips! 😃
I would love to find any of them here in Brazil. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have all three...with a set of cutters for each. I enjoyed this video very much!
One problem with the video is you CANNOT use Stanley no. 45 cutters in a Stanley no. 50! They won't fit properly.
@@daveNJ87325 my 3 stanley planes are displayed on a shelf. I use a Veritas right hand plough plane for grooves. Being an antique plane collector is as bad an addiction as any other! Lol
I can't for the life of me fathom why these plough and combination planes went out of fashion, I mean if you don't have a router table some of these jobs are tricky with the router. I think every woodworker should know how to slap a piece of wood in the vice and cut a groove or rebate, why have we forgotten such an incredibly well designed tool, they are absolute bargains in my opinion.
thanks
There's also the more modern Stanley Combination Plane - No. 13-050
, which at least in the UK are much cheaper. Record also did a copy version.
I went with a 45 for a lot of little reasons - it has a nicker; the microadjust it has, the fence, etc. Over all it turned out to be just right when compared to the 50 beading plane and the 55 Behemoth.
You have to look at the different 50’s, my later year one has knickers
I do hollow and rounds with wood planes
that is differently the way to go.
The 50s is my go too everytime along with my small Pough .I hit on lucky with the 50s as it had never been used and a bargain price of £35 uk
the 55 is perfect when you do molding but can’t stock dozen of different planes.. and it’s easier when you need a custom shape to only have to prepare a cutter and not the all plane :)
in my opinion the 50 is too light compared to the 45, wich require less vertical force. but it’s a personnal preference due to a back issue :/
I tend to set up the 55 with a molding iron, the 45 to do grooves and switch between them when I have a lot of wall paneling upright to do..
Wood working is a hobby for me ^^’
Moving the fence isn't just useful for left handed people. Which side the fence is on determines which direction you plane. To cut with the grain, you either need to a reversible fence or enough capacity to run the fence along the opposite face (which also requires those faces to be perfectly parallel.) That's not an issue when cutting a tongue and groove in 3/4" stock, which is likely symmetrical anyway. But it's harder if you were putting a rabbet along the edge of a wide board.
My #50 has a depth stop and a blade adjustment lever.
They added those on the later versions. I should have mentioned that. also the Record 44 has them.
I have two metal handled 50s, one in nickel finish the other has a black stain finish to the metal not japanned, I dont know if that finish is original. Plus multiple wooden handled 50s. But for quick dado work I prefer the Record 44 or Record 50, because of the adjustment wheels. Most of the 50s need full blade sets.
That does look like a cool one👍
As a beginner , all i have is a blow plane withe different size blades for making grooves and i need to practice more using it 🤔
Wanted to get a Stanley 45. But I knew if I had the 45, I must get the 55 and end up more of a collection thing because I'm not a professional. So I settled for a record 405 instead
The newer wooden handled 50 will do basically anything a 45 can with not ad much weight penalty. That said the 45 is aeguably mpre balanced.
There must be various different versions of the no. 50 because I have one with two holes for the depth stop and a depth adjustment lever with teeth like on the 78. Coincidentally I just used it for the first time today!
Also a record no 50 is equivalent to the Stanley 50 but with a few extra features such as a threaded depth adjustment. It’s what I have and serves my need.
Yes. In the later versions they added on more bells and whistles. They also started to increase the price. But thankfully on the antique market they are pretty similar in price.
How about a comparison with the Record 050?
It's similar, but looks like it has a few more features than the Stanley version.
It's basically the record version of the 45. Just a different numbering system
I have something made by another brand that is somewhere between the two, with the benefits of both & few drawbacks.
I just bought 8 moulding planes on EBay for $1.98 😊
Very nice no 50... If I'm not mistaken that handle design is millers patent?
Is it even possible to use the specialty blades on a made to fit wooden body for those who accidentaly got all of them thinking it would be an all things fit all situation?
sure I have seen a few people make a wooden body to fit a combination cutter.
Thanks james for posting a review on 50, which seems rare to find. My 50 has some differences than shown here - it has a rosewood handle, a depth adjustment lever and no wooden fence. It is made in England and yes I did pay a premium shipping for that😑. I have a few questions and am looking forward for your inputs (i am currentlyusing it to make grooves for drawer bases I am building)
1. I feel a lot of resistance when using it and it seems like it just bites into the wood. I have sharpened the blades but seems still some major issue with my technique.
2. I see that 45 and 55 have 2 parallel skates but I think 50 has just 1. Do you think it makes a lot of difference with respect to ease of use?
3. The grooves I am making on my drawers seem to show up on the outside of my dovetails. Not a very big deal but is there a good way to avoid this?
Sorry to put so many questions in one go but I am really looking forward for your advise🙂. Thanks!
Thanks. The fence is usually easy to find on eBay but if you go down the sellers on WWW.handtoolfinder.com I am sure half of the online sellers there would have one.
1.If it is bighting in then you have too much iron sticking out. It should only stick out 1/100 of an inch or less.
2.the 50 has 2 skates. they actually grab eather side of the iron and hold it in. I would be interested to see yours and I do not know how you could put the iron in with out the other skate.
3. to hide the groove you have three common options. 1 use half blind dovetails so the groove runs out the tale board and is covered by the front panel. 2. plug the holes with the bits of wood left from cutting the tails and pins. 3. learn to like them. I personally like the looks of the holes on the sides of the drawers, but I plug them on boxes.
feel free to send me an email with pictures. I would love to take a look. JamesWright@woodbywright.com
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks a lot James. Really appreciate the detailed explanation. I will send you an email with pictures in the next few days. Thanks again and you have a great weekend!
Didn't even know if the 50
I would like to know as I wish to try rounds and hollows what the distances were relative to the numbers. I assume the numbers here in U.K. are similar to those in US of A but assumptions are often misguided!
The numbers have a bunch of different meanings and a bunch of different measurements depending upon where they were made and who made them. Around the civil war time in the US, they kind of became standardized in the US. The the were still a few makers who did other things with him.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you for that!
*prices for Stanley 50 skyrocket*
That's exactly what I was thinking. I wish I was sitting on a box full of them to put up on eBay right now. LOL!
I have a #50 but there is no way to attach the wood blocks to the fence like yours has. Did you drill your fence out for that, or did it come that way? Mine also lacks the fancy design on the handle, so maybe a slightly earlier model?
I really have used mine very little, simply because the idea of sharpening all those blades is daunting (of course, I only need to sharpen the blades that I actually use)
I only sharpen a blade once or twice a year. And even then only as needed. But different versions of it came with different fence attachments..
Alas and alack, no demo? It would have been interesting to see a setup and use. Good video, though.
That's a topic for a whole other video. And it will be coming up. Unfortunately doing the demo in this one would have made it far too long. And in the actual use there isn't much functional difference.
James, just acquired a Stanley 54 from wife. It's missing extension rods and 5 of the original 8 cutters. I would like to know if blades & rods from the 50 are interchangeable with the 54. Thanks for any input.
WOW!! THAT IS A HARD ONE TO FIND!!! those are not common at all. I have only held one once, so I can not say for certain. but I would give it a 95% chance the rods are the same, but the blades for certain are the same.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
It's basically a 50. No spurs.
Man would love to find the rods. I think 50 longs are available. Shorts are like a needle in hay stack. It's in nice condition and all japanning. Surface rust.
Blades from #50, are out there in the wild. I quess I have an endeavor. Funny part is as a retiree got plane fever. The lot had also a Sargent 29 . Thanks James for everyrhing.
Ok curious, the #50 will cut dado's......?
Yes. They have Spurs on them so they can cut the wood ahead of the iron.
Viewers need to determine if James really means 45, 50, or 55 based on the context not the audio. That said, No. 50 is much simpler at certain tasks and is great to have. You can use No. 50 blades in 45 or 55. Just retract the wheel all the way back and use a mallet to adjust.
Going in the other direction; you CANNOT use Stanley no. 45 cutters in a Stanley no. 50! They won't fit properly.
James, did you have to file a notch in your 50 in order to use the cutters from the 45?
I did not, but someone else did. In some later models they did that.
I have the 50 and like it. It is basically just my drawer/box bottom plane. But I did keep 1 or 2 beading irons just in case. Is your fence tapped for the wooden fence to screw into or just glued on? I was going to add a wooden fence awhile ago and never got around to it
the fence on this one has two countersunk screw holes.
The Record 050 has a depth adjustment...... does all the versions of the 50 not have that? The Record has sliding rods too that get held down with screws instead of threading into the body 😁 il always prefer a Record plane to a Stanley tbh 🤷♂️😂
the later versions of Record and Stanley added the adjusters and sliding rods. you will find those a lot more in the UK as they had a lot made post war. where as most made over here were pre war.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo England is only next door to me, so all my hands on experience with planes is with English models. You always have somethin to teach James, thank you Sir 😁
Hi James! I have acquired a Stanley 50 without cutters. To start with, I'd like to try fashioning a 1/4" cutter from O1 steel blank from amazon. Can you tell me what are the dimensions of that cutter (other than the 1/4" part 🙂) and what the recommended bevel angle is?
1/8" thick 3" long bevel angle is whatever you want as it is bevel down. most sharpen between 20 and 40 degrees. I usually shoot for about 35 ish.
Is there anywhere to get new cutters for this without having to buy a whole plane?
Yes. The cutters from veritas also fit. They made sure their combination plane matches. But you can buy individual antiques from most any antique tool dealer. You can find them sold in visually on eBay or if you go down the list of online sellers on handToolfinder.com several of them have piles left.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you from northern Ireland! I got a stanley 50s in original box and it was missing one cutter for about 60 dollars (I converted it so you wouldn't have to)
Hey James, would you recommend getting a tongue and groove plane or would you just use the 50 for that?? I mentioned I see a Union 41 for sale but thinking if I should just use the money on 50 blades instead🤔
if you are going to do a lot of it get a 41 or something like that, but if you are only going to do it once a year or so then a 50 or 45 is enough.
@Wood By Wright How To thank you so much for your reply as always James! I really do want one but yes realistically not sure how much I'll use it😅🙏
I like my 45, but it looks like a 50 would do most of what I use the 45 for (plowing).
I picked up a 50, but it has a wood handle. Is this plane supposed to have a shaving deflector and screw? The 1/8 and 3/16 cutters are loose?
Sounds like you might have a modified version. The Stanley 50 never came with a wooden handle. Feel free to send me some pictures. I'd be glad to take a look and see what you got. You can find my email in the about tab on the channel page or the contact me form on my website.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you for the reply, sending you an email with the subject "Stanley No 5 Wooden Handle"
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I bought a Stanley 50 with a wooden handle a week ago.
Are you going to clean and paint the 50 to match the rest of your blue tools aesthetic?
Lol I don't paint the chrome tools!
Hi James, Im having issues using the irons on the 50. The iron potrudes a quarter in pass the skates since if i pull up higher it hit the handle, causing the iron to skew when i tighten it.
Also anyone know where i can get spurs, mines seem worn out.. Thank you!
It sounds like you're using an iron from a 45 or 55. Those are a little longer. The later 50s had a little notch cut end of the handle so that the longer irons would slide past the handle. So a lot of people ended up filing a notch into the handle, allowing the iron to slide back farther. You can sometimes find the Spurs for sale on eBay. Though a lot of people like to make their own out of a hacksaw blade
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Thank you so for clarifying James! Dont know how comfortable i feel making a notch on my only plough plane but i will definitely try the hacksaw spurs! Appreciate you knowledge and content!
I would say around 25% of them out there have the same notch filed in. It's not very big. It's only about an eighth of an inch deep and an eighth of inch wide
@Wood By Wright How 2 Thank you, ill work up the courage to do so, since I so have 6 irons. I'll look into making spurs to get my 50 to work!!!
James, stock cutters for the Stanley 50 are about 3 inches long or slightly less. Stanley 45 cutters are about 3-3/4 inches long or longer; that goes for the very early Stanley 45' cutters without the notch as well as the later notched cutters for the 45. I have both a Stanley 45 Type 1 (about 1883, with cutters without the notch) and a Stanley 45 from around 1910 or slightly later (with cutters with the notch). Stanley was known for keeping their combination planes unique, so you could NOT mix and match many of the parts, one big exception is the plough, beading, slitter and tongue and groove cutters for the 45 and 55 which can be mixed between the two planes and the skate/fence mounting bars which have the same dimensions and therefore can also be used in both. There are some other parts that are interchangeable between the Stanley 45 and 55 but not a very large number of them. As an aside, the earliest Stanley 50 was a beading plane ONLY (Type 1 through about Type 4; which I have a Type 1 as stated in an earlier posting); it was later modified by Stanley to include plough/dado cutters and the tongue and groove cutter. I hope this helps.
Loads of no50s on UK eBay. Mine has a depth stop and blade adjuster. It's not quite as decorative though...
They added those on the later versions. I should have mentioned that. also the Record 44 has them.
In the event of an apocalypse, you shall be in charge of the making of tools, which will save us from a furniture-less, bleak future.
If you’re willing to sell your 55 with the blades and all the bell and whisels i’ll take it i make lots of moldings 🙏👍🏼🇨🇦
Does the Stanley 50 plane irons work with the Veritas Plough Plane?
The newer ones with the slot can do that but the older ones missing the slot will not.
Ah yes, the 55. its called that because its how many gizmos stanley manage to jam into a plane
hello
Hello. And congrats on first.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo LOL hey James im from Denmark
im a lucky guy, i got a chest of woodplanes for this shit. They are all made pre the WW2 factory resett.
Snide remark?
me manda uma dessas pra mim trabalha ?
Is there a dog or a wig in the background or something? :)
that is my Bob Ross wig
James your Stanley 50 has been modified by notching the handle to allow clearance for the longer 45 Cutters. Stock Stanley 50 planes DO NOT have the notched handle. I have two, one from 1885 and one from about 1930; neither can accommodate Stanley 45 cutters because they are not supplied with a notched handle.
I'm going to have to look into that more. Both of them that I have have a notch in the handle for the iron to slide in.
Kind of have a youtube chanel, ha ha ha, you poor man, I feel so sorry for you, that you have to have nice tools😁
it is a pain that I much bear. LOL
I have to stop. I bought a 50 for the first time and wanted to see how to assemble the parts. I’m happy for you that you have the other two, but your title only mentioned the 50. Sort of frustrating. I stopped watching about a quarter through.
What would you like to see. this video is about the history and what makes it different. Thanks for the feedback. I would love to hear your idea for a video. I might put it out.
The Stanley 50 is not made to accept cutters from the Stanley 45; they don't fit the Stanley 50 properly.
I beg to differ as that is what I use in mine.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo James your Stanley 50 has been modified by notching the handle to allow clearance for the longer 45 Cutters. Stock Stanley 50 planes DO NOT have the notched handle. I have two, one from 1885 and one from about 1930; neither can accommodate Stanley 45 cutters because they are not supplied with a notched handle.