WOW!! I just love the work you do. Very informative and I'm learning alot of stuff every time I watch you. Thanks alot for keeping the FE motor going into the future. I'm 67 and been running and working on FE motors since high school with my older brother. He taught me everything I know about engines and your a step up on everything I've learned. I've got a 67 Mustang fastback 390 car that I bought when I was in high school and still got it and running today with a very built up 390 engine. I've got a brand new 427 side oiler I bought in the late 70's. I bought the bare block, steel cross drill crank, lemans connecting rods and been gathering parts ever since. The block is a 1968 with the hydraulic oiling galleys. I bought my mustang in 1971 and the original owner changed it into a "Gasser" with a straight axle and the headers coming out behind the front tires. I'm going to start building the 427 in the next year or so. So thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge on the FE motors. Thanks.
In the late 90s , early 2000's with the nascar cup ( Flat Tappet ) engines , mainly chevys . We mad a complete Cam Tube out of Alum Tube , complete with lifter bores and cam bearing bosses . We used either Roller bearings or 55MM babbit bearings . Then we Bored the Cam Tunnel oversize and pressed in the complete assembly . The babbit made more power than the roller bearings . We mainly did that for Lifter and Cam Oiling. The Blocks and cam tunnels were also modified to use small carb jets to spray oil on the cam lobes and lifters. The Busch or Xfinity now ( Roller Cams ) we used sheetmetal like yours to block the bottom of the cam tunnel , it was just fit nicely and Siliconed in .
Yes Sir the good old days. Things we couldn't talk about back then. How about drilling the entire cam oil gallery's, front to back ? Reverse oil feed to the front of the block with the head of the mill at a compound angle ? Scavenge the back of the block in between the block and the flywheel ? Cylinder hone with water pump, motor mounts, bell housing etc., bolted on ? Repairing big block Chevrolet after the main webs, were cut into by someone not paying attention with the boring bar ? I had 1 block, for a reason it had to be repaired. The previous machinist???? not only bored thru the main webbing, he thought he repaired it by putting in pushrods into the galleries. Yes, that wasn't a misprint. Ever try and drill or machine a pushrod ?????? I used a carbide tip concrete twist drill, sharpened the rake and backcut and yes I slowly but surely drilled the 3 out. About 12 hours, a day and a half. Replaced them with brass inserts, and epoxie them in place. This engine is still being raced to this day. Thanks for the memories brother God bless 🙌🙏 T.S. RACING
It looks like you have really thought this through. I have contemplated this many times. For what it's worth, I have used JB Weld with Great success in the lifter valley of a Big Block Mopar where the openings are. I made aluminum dams for windage control and after 3 years of service in drag racing, the client was having me change the intake manifold for improved performance and I was able to see how the JB weld was doing. It showed no evidence of any problems.
Interesting concept. I've seen the cam tunnel... cup blocks. At first they did have a small slit in the bottoms of the enclosure. I actually think they did this to improve oiling with built up puddles of oil for the lobes to pass through. Our emergency oil circulation system is plumbed into the lifter galleys. In case we loose oil pressure for any reason we can flip a valve and it supplies 3 quarts of oil into the system using gravity to lubricate part on the shut down. Just my opinion...on the dyno mule. If your using those beautiful cranks, and connecting rods. With windage control devices. They're isnt enough oil tossed up into the cam tunnel to get much power loss. But time will tell with dyno results. Larger increases of power gain from oil control was achieved on older factory components. On the claimer series small block chevys. We gained 30 hp on a 450 hp combo. Same engine using knife edged cranks,scrappers, and screen type screens showed that smaller 2% power increase. Excellent challange Brent. Iam one of those that use epoxy and screen above the cam to divert oil away.
Lykins Motorsports Brent, how are you gonna test the difference/hp gains of this? Will you dyno it first without this kit and then take apart - install - then dyno with the kit or vise versa?
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Talk about putting a lot of thought into something. 🔥🔥 I enjoy watching your videos. There's a lot to learn here.
WOW!! I just love the work you do. Very informative and I'm learning alot of stuff every time I watch you. Thanks alot for keeping the FE motor going into the future. I'm 67 and been running and working on FE motors since high school with my older brother. He taught me everything I know about engines and your a step up on everything I've learned. I've got a 67 Mustang fastback 390 car that I bought when I was in high school and still got it and running today with a very built up 390 engine. I've got a brand new 427 side oiler I bought in the late 70's. I bought the bare block, steel cross drill crank, lemans connecting rods and been gathering parts ever since. The block is a 1968 with the hydraulic oiling galleys. I bought my mustang in 1971 and the original owner changed it into a "Gasser" with a straight axle and the headers coming out behind the front tires. I'm going to start building the 427 in the next year or so. So thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge on the FE motors. Thanks.
This looks so inventive. A lot of thought must have gone into the design. I can't wait to see more of the build.
In the late 90s , early 2000's with the nascar cup ( Flat Tappet ) engines , mainly chevys . We mad a complete Cam Tube out of Alum Tube , complete with lifter bores and cam bearing bosses . We used either Roller bearings or 55MM babbit bearings . Then we Bored the Cam Tunnel oversize and pressed in the complete assembly . The babbit made more power than the roller bearings . We mainly did that for Lifter and Cam Oiling. The Blocks and cam tunnels were also modified to use small carb jets to spray oil on the cam lobes and lifters. The Busch or Xfinity now ( Roller Cams ) we used sheetmetal like yours to block the bottom of the cam tunnel , it was just fit nicely and Siliconed in .
Yes Sir the good old days.
Things we couldn't talk about back then. How about drilling the entire cam oil gallery's, front to back ? Reverse oil feed to the front of the block with the head of the mill at a compound angle ? Scavenge the back of the block in between the block and the flywheel ?
Cylinder hone with water pump, motor mounts, bell housing etc., bolted on ? Repairing big block Chevrolet after the main webs, were cut into by someone not paying attention with the boring bar ? I had 1 block, for a reason it had to be repaired. The previous machinist???? not only bored thru the main webbing, he thought he repaired it by putting in pushrods into the galleries. Yes, that wasn't a misprint. Ever try and drill or machine a pushrod ??????
I used a carbide tip concrete twist drill, sharpened the rake and backcut and yes I slowly but surely drilled the 3 out.
About 12 hours, a day and a half. Replaced them with brass inserts, and epoxie them in place. This engine is still being raced to this day.
Thanks for the memories brother God bless 🙌🙏
T.S. RACING
Should also add extra life to lifters whether mechanical solids or both roller combinations
Very cool, seems like a lot of work for 20hp,but I wouldn't expect anything less from you, Good luck
Man, good luck to you. Exciting stuff!
Making FE’s great again !
It looks like you have really thought this through. I have contemplated this many times. For what it's worth, I have used JB Weld with Great success in the lifter valley of a Big Block Mopar where the openings are. I made aluminum dams for windage control and after 3 years of service in drag racing, the client was having me change the intake manifold for improved performance and I was able to see how the JB weld was doing. It showed no evidence of any problems.
Very cool stuff! I hope it works out. The machine work is art and that weld is unbelievable.
Great video. I'm interested in the before & after HP numbers. Thank you sharing.
Won’t be before and after. Putting this in from the get-go.
Great content very informative Thank You . 🇺🇲 🇵🇷 🦊 👍
Interesting concept. I've seen the cam tunnel... cup blocks. At first they did have a small slit in the bottoms of the enclosure. I actually think they did this to improve oiling with built up puddles of oil for the lobes to pass through.
Our emergency oil circulation system is plumbed into the lifter galleys. In case we loose oil pressure for any reason we can flip a valve and it supplies 3 quarts of oil into the system using gravity to lubricate part on the shut down.
Just my opinion...on the dyno mule. If your using those beautiful cranks, and connecting rods. With windage control devices. They're isnt enough oil tossed up into the cam tunnel to get much power loss. But time will tell with dyno results. Larger increases of power gain from oil control was achieved on older factory components. On the claimer series small block chevys. We gained 30 hp on a 450 hp combo. Same engine using knife edged cranks,scrappers, and screen type screens showed that smaller 2% power increase.
Excellent challange Brent. Iam one of those that use epoxy and screen above the cam to divert oil away.
Super interesting things you bring up in your videos. Been here a while now and enjoying the channel
Great video Brent - very interesting concept and content - looking forward to the development of this engine 🙂
Very interesting. Looking forward to seeing it go together. ❤️ FE
looking forward to see how this goes!
Good luck , I hope it works.
Honda journals/rods
Lykins Motorsports Brent, how are you gonna test the difference/hp gains of this? Will you dyno it first without this kit and then take apart - install - then dyno with the kit or vise versa?
There will be no before/after. A cam tunnel, as stated in the video, is good for about 3% of a horsepower gain. This has been documented.
Cool!
I am assuming the lifter will be fully submerged in oil. Won’t this help the lifespan of solid rollers on the street?
Brent said this will be a solid flat tappet cam.