Just like there is no substitute for a clean tight electrical connection, there is no substitute for a properly aligned drag car! The higher positive caster numbers give better high speed stability , help make the steering return to center, and give a heavier steering feel over center. Performing the alignment with the front and rear of the car in a dynamic position absolutely results in a car that is easier to drive and inspires confidence. Thanks for the video....
havebenthere thanks so much for your comments! No doubt! I fired that director for sure!!! I did try a fan once but it was hard on the audio so I just decided to sweat. LOL. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Awesome Kevin, I wll be installing my upper and lower control arms and spindles, and all the other front end parts, pitman arms new steering box everything. And I needed this info, probably won't get it front end all together till spring or late winter, Thanks Again
John Carter thanks so much for your support and question! I will be getting a video out of the entire scaling process very soon. This will include doing all the plotting and pre-load. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Kevin i found this very informative. I would like to do my own adjustments but not sure where to start. Would you set your caster first then your camber or vice versa? I assume you would set your toe last? I am working on a 79 g body malibu with stock upper and lower control arms. It would be great if you could do a video on how to change the camber and caster with that type of front end. Again I assume caster would get adjusted by shimming the upper control arm and if that's the case how do you adjust the camber? Maybe a video that simple would be insulting to some of your viewers but you did such a good job of explaining caster, camber and toe I felt like you would be able to explain or show how to make those adjustments. Sorry for such a long comment. You did a great job and I love watching the informative videos, keep up the great work. Thanks, Tommy
Tommy Steadman thanks so much for your comments! Great questions and I will work on a more specific video. Generally we get toe pretty close, then caster, then camber, then recheck caster, and set toe in last. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I’m in need of recommendation front DA front shocks a 77 Nova stock 6 cyl coils small block 1500 lbs on the front end w driver 800 on D side 700 on pass .1200.lbs on the rear 600 on each wheel . Ladder bar . High 8 sec car low 9s two speed glide NA small block on meth . I would like to keep the front wheels up higher longer . It pulls the wheels about 7 inches for 30 feet . Not cool . Please thank you Vinnie Green love the videos your rite on in every respect .
Vinnie Green thanks so much for your comments and support of the channel! There are many factors involved so shoot me an email from my site at samsonperformance.com with more around your current setup. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
We are giving our car a tot upgrade now, When were done I'll be getting in contact with you. We want to have you do a few things for us to finish the car up.
Thanks...pretty straightforward...I know all this, but the reason for my message is how you would adjust bump steer. The car or in this case the front end, assumes various height levels, while heading down the track, so how would you set that important condition? Would you set it at ride height? What's your take?
S/SGen3/426 thanks so much for your comments! This is where our relationship with the customer is so critical. We will ask how the car reacts on the hit and going down the track with regard to front end rise. Also, video of the car racing helps us. Then we will simulate the front end rise with a floor jack under the front frame to adjust toe and camber and caster at that attitude. Also, we try to eliminate as much of the bump steer as possible and if possible. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I'm building a SS/AM Gen 3 hemi fired 92 Chrysler. I have Strange front struts set at 8 degrees caster, toe is presently at 0. I got my bump steer to go max toe in and out total .055 of an inch, calculated with a dial indicator at the outward edge of the tire, or at 12.5 inch radius.....which I'd say is not bad at 3.5 inches of travel. What say you? Thanks
@@SSGTA440 Would like to see a little less camber, but good job keeping it at 1 degree! I prefer 0 - 1/2 degree negative if possible with 0 toe in. Keep me posted. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great videos Kevin! Would these recommendations apply for 12.00/110 mph 1967 Camaro with stock type control arms? Specifically striving for some positive Caster? Thanks...
D Thomp thanks so much for your comments! For a stock control arm 67 Camaro, you will have to compromise on the caster to keep the camber in line. In 1967 Caster was still not used as much as today, but try to get as much caster as possible without hurting camber. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
What do you recommend for front kick up, aka the angle of the front arms themselves? Should they be at a zero degree mounting setup, aka running parallel with the track surface, or would there be a reason you would not have the front arm setup parallel with the track surface? In RC many of the chassis' we are using are from the 1/10th scale short course trucks, with shorter buggy arms to bring the wheels in and narrow up the w/b. However, because the front ends are designed for off road use, and a bouncing, jumping, winding course, they have a front kick up of about 15-20* in some aspects. Some companies have made a Zero Degree Kick up for the front arms to level them with the track, and one is making a 2.5% to put just a very light kickup to help with tracking. I have Zero Degrees installed so my rigs have the front a arms parallel with the track surface, so am looking for info that will translate to our RC rigs. Thanks Kevin. Great info again. Been 30 plus years since I even thought about this level of setup on a 1:1, let alone in RC. lmao
Timothy Locke's Perception Deception thanks so much for your comments! I am working on a part 2 video on topics like this for front roll center tracking so stay tuned. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thank Kevin. I'll keep my eyes open. To better define kick up for you, it raises the front of the a amrs, while leaving the rear arms down at the chassis level. Castor would be applicable if we could change it. Usually our Castor is done by the degree of kickup in the front bulkheads.
Harry's Taxi 2 thanks so much for your question! We have ran that much with front engine dragsters and altereds but not door cars. Generally 7 - 8 is plenty. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Hey Kevin, I love your videos. I recently got a set of scales, would it be in my best interest to get a longarce digital caster camber gauge? Or just go to my local shop and have it done. How often do you make changes to the alignment?
Scott Schwer thanks so much for your comments! I would get the gauge. Unless replacing front end parts, alignment doesn't change often on a drag car. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Trust ME!!! Take it to heart! Do NOT run a rubber rag joint in your steering! When my car still had stock front suspension, it wheelied big time. When I rebuilt the front end, I also replaced the rag joint. I had a bad habit of pulling the steering wheel to me when the car launched. I guess I thought I was riding a motorcycle. During time trials the car left, and the next thing I knew the steering wheel was almost to my chest! I pushed it forward before the front end came down, and the safety pins lined up and I was able to come to a safe speed and come back to the pits in one piece. My lucky day. I now run rack and pinion just for that reason.
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks for all you do! You’re the first person I’ve found that can talk about ladder bar suspension. The short time I’ve been subscribed to your channel, I’ve learned a ton! Take care, go fast, go straight and be SAFE! My new found motto!
I have never done any front wheel drive drag cars. Sorry. Same theories apply but you will need to watch the toe and camber on the hit and see what it does. Good video is priceless. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hello like your mouth I think you're incredible communicator that has developed a very nice understandable way to explain the math and the purpose of the math I've ran across in life many people know those words but don't really know what to do with the math once they get the numbers they have no idea the math meaning the numbers are a tuning device it is a tool it's the most important tool in the toolbox if you know all the dots as I'm calling it where the mathematical numbers are as to roll center rear Roll center center of gravity four-link instant Center Lathan height rear steer separation and so on and so on and so on every single thing I just named has a number and if you eliminate physically looking at a race car as parts and look at the race car as numbers all you need is the numbers then you can build the Cosmetic look and the structural pickup points they have tunable locations so that you can move the numbers around as necessary to change attitude of car once you establish the number locations you can fabricate your chassis to have the pickup points tunable to build contain the numbers to work in your benefit the key word here is knowing what to do with the numbers as a tool not just as a word for example rear wheel base Centerline of Axl the length to the instant Center of 4 Link then the height of instant Center then calculate to them length of the mass which in the front becomes 600-lb of engine or more or less let's just use for example Centerline of axle 55in forwards instant Center 6in High instant Center and engine set back from Center vaxcel 83 in I used a 23-inch difference number 23 in from back of block to instant Center length as you can move that 23-inch number to be 26-28 or go shorter up to 2016 in your moving the instant Center length closer to the mass of the engine or farther away from the mass of the engine which then has a large input on load I'd like to speak to you on Telephone how do I do that
Scott, I am about 4 weeks out on all remote suspension work, but I would encourage you to checkout my Services on my website at samsonperformance.com/services.html and see if one fits your needs. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Sorry.. not following you exactly. AWD drives cars will need same principles applied to camber, caster and toe in if that is what you are asking. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
I think you meant to say " I COULDN'T care less how your car drives on the return road " , not " I COULD care least less " Think about it . If you couldn't care less that means you care the least you possibly could lol
This is simple to understand and informative to use. Great Lesson.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your videos. The shock adjustment explanation really helped me out this weekend.
Going Bracket Racing thanks so much for your comments! Also, thanks for subscribing!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Just like there is no substitute for a clean tight electrical connection, there is no substitute for a properly aligned drag car!
The higher positive caster numbers give better high speed stability , help make the steering return to center, and give a heavier steering feel over center.
Performing the alignment with the front and rear of the car in a dynamic position absolutely results in a car that is easier to drive and inspires confidence.
Thanks for the video....
Junkyarddawg Fixit thanks so much for your comments and I completely agree! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Thanks Kevin. The timing is perfect as i need to get my car aligned. Nice job explaining how they work together
Scott Nettell thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
4- positive caster
It's hard shooting videos on Venus!! Thanks for sharing, this is great info!!
Hey man thank you for taking time to make this video !!!!
Glad it was helpful! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video Kevin! You look a little warm in T shirt. Tell your director to get a fan. LOL
havebenthere thanks so much for your comments! No doubt! I fired that director for sure!!! I did try a fan once but it was hard on the audio so I just decided to sweat. LOL. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Love your wisdom Kevin... Bless ya man....
Awesome Kevin, I wll be installing my upper and lower control arms and spindles, and all the other front end parts, pitman arms new steering box everything. And I needed this info, probably won't get it front end all together till spring or late winter, Thanks Again
Marcus Pace thanks so much for your comments! Shout later if you have any issues. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Love the video. You explain things well for suspension.
1997LT1Camaro thanks so much for your kind comments! Thanks for watching the videos. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great job Kevin, love watching the videos. Can we get one on scaling a drag car please?
John Carter thanks so much for your support and question! I will be getting a video out of the entire scaling process very soon. This will include doing all the plotting and pre-load. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Best explanation I've seen! Thank you Thank you Thank you!
clint rigby thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC uploading a video of my nova now. Front end aligned with your settings. Perfect!
@@KevinWilsonSBC man you have to check out the videos of my on youtube @Clint Rigby. Thats thanks to your videos.
Kevin i found this very informative. I would like to do my own adjustments but not sure where to start. Would you set your caster first then your camber or vice versa? I assume you would set your toe last? I am working on a 79 g body malibu with stock upper and lower control arms. It would be great if you could do a video on how to change the camber and caster with that type of front end. Again I assume caster would get adjusted by shimming the upper control arm and if that's the case how do you adjust the camber? Maybe a video that simple would be insulting to some of your viewers but you did such a good job of explaining caster, camber and toe I felt like you would be able to explain or show how to make those adjustments. Sorry for such a long comment. You did a great job and I love watching the informative videos, keep up the great work. Thanks, Tommy
Tommy Steadman thanks so much for your comments! Great questions and I will work on a more specific video. Generally we get toe pretty close, then caster, then camber, then recheck caster, and set toe in last. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
what setup would you recommend for the rear? IRS specifically.
Great Video!
I'm setting up a rc no prep but I think this applies : )
Chris Register thanks so much for your comments! Same principles apply. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Good job
RCS motorsports Ron thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great video!!!
Awesome. Your videos are great. Super helpful.
Professor metal head thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
I’m in need of recommendation front DA front shocks a 77 Nova stock 6 cyl coils small block 1500 lbs on the front end w driver 800 on D side 700 on pass .1200.lbs on the rear 600 on each wheel . Ladder bar . High 8 sec car low 9s two speed glide NA small block on meth . I would like to keep the front wheels up higher longer . It pulls the wheels about 7 inches for 30 feet . Not cool . Please thank you Vinnie Green love the videos your rite on in every respect .
Vinnie Green thanks so much for your comments and support of the channel! There are many factors involved so shoot me an email from my site at samsonperformance.com with more around your current setup. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Great info Kev, thanks for the video.👍
RCS motorsports Ron thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
We are giving our car a tot upgrade now, When were done I'll be getting in contact with you. We want to have you do a few things for us to finish the car up.
Can you more on leaf spring tuning
The Saint 572 Wedge thanks so much for your comments! Part 2 Leaf Spring video just hit!!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks...pretty straightforward...I know all this, but the reason for my message is how you would adjust bump steer. The car or in this case the front end, assumes various height levels, while heading down the track, so how would you set that important condition?
Would you set it at ride height?
What's your take?
S/SGen3/426 thanks so much for your comments! This is where our relationship with the customer is so critical. We will ask how the car reacts on the hit and going down the track with regard to front end rise. Also, video of the car racing helps us. Then we will simulate the front end rise with a floor jack under the front frame to adjust toe and camber and caster at that attitude. Also, we try to eliminate as much of the bump steer as possible and if possible. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I'm building a SS/AM Gen 3 hemi fired 92 Chrysler. I have Strange front struts set at 8 degrees caster, toe is presently at 0. I got my bump steer to go max toe in and out total .055 of an inch, calculated with a dial indicator at the outward edge of the tire, or at 12.5 inch radius.....which I'd say is not bad at 3.5 inches of travel. What say you?
Thanks
@@SSGTA440 I would say you have a done a great job!!! Where is the camber?
@@KevinWilsonSBC 1 degree negative.
@@SSGTA440 Would like to see a little less camber, but good job keeping it at 1 degree! I prefer 0 - 1/2 degree negative if possible with 0 toe in. Keep me posted. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Very informative! Thank you , the chaulk board was a great visual for new guys like me ! Prayers and thoughts for you dad ! 94S10V8
Thank you! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Kevin I have a question about setting up the bump steer kit on my drag car.
Can you help with this?
Checkout my website services at www.samsonperformance.com/store/p1/RemoteSuspensionTuning.html Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
Great videos Kevin! Would these recommendations apply for 12.00/110 mph 1967 Camaro with stock type control arms? Specifically striving for some positive Caster? Thanks...
D Thomp thanks so much for your comments! For a stock control arm 67 Camaro, you will have to compromise on the caster to keep the camber in line. In 1967 Caster was still not used as much as today, but try to get as much caster as possible without hurting camber. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
What do you recommend for front kick up, aka the angle of the front arms themselves? Should they be at a zero degree mounting setup, aka running parallel with the track surface, or would there be a reason you would not have the front arm setup parallel with the track surface?
In RC many of the chassis' we are using are from the 1/10th scale short course trucks, with shorter buggy arms to bring the wheels in and narrow up the w/b. However, because the front ends are designed for off road use, and a bouncing, jumping, winding course, they have a front kick up of about 15-20* in some aspects. Some companies have made a Zero Degree Kick up for the front arms to level them with the track, and one is making a 2.5% to put just a very light kickup to help with tracking. I have Zero Degrees installed so my rigs have the front a arms parallel with the track surface, so am looking for info that will translate to our RC rigs.
Thanks Kevin. Great info again. Been 30 plus years since I even thought about this level of setup on a 1:1, let alone in RC. lmao
Timothy Locke's Perception Deception thanks so much for your comments! I am working on a part 2 video on topics like this for front roll center tracking so stay tuned. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC Thank Kevin. I'll keep my eyes open. To better define kick up for you, it raises the front of the a amrs, while leaving the rear arms down at the chassis level. Castor would be applicable if we could change it. Usually our Castor is done by the degree of kickup in the front bulkheads.
Do you see a problem with up to as much as 10-12*'s of positive caster? (other than increasing your turning radius)
Harry's Taxi 2 thanks so much for your question! We have ran that much with front engine dragsters and altereds but not door cars. Generally 7 - 8 is plenty. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Hey Kevin, I love your videos. I recently got a set of scales, would it be in my best interest to get a longarce digital caster camber gauge? Or just go to my local shop and have it done. How often do you make changes to the alignment?
Scott Schwer thanks so much for your comments! I would get the gauge. Unless replacing front end parts, alignment doesn't change often on a drag car. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thanks Kevin !!! I'm going to apply this to a strait axel
Frank Clark jr thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Trust ME!!! Take it to heart! Do NOT run a rubber rag joint in your steering! When my car still had stock front suspension, it wheelied big time. When I rebuilt the front end, I also replaced the rag joint. I had a bad habit of pulling the steering wheel to me when the car launched. I guess I thought I was riding a motorcycle. During time trials the car left, and the next thing I knew the steering wheel was almost to my chest! I pushed it forward before the front end came down, and the safety pins lined up and I was able to come to a safe speed and come back to the pits in one piece. My lucky day. I now run rack and pinion just for that reason.
Layton Turpin thanks so much for your comments and confirmation! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks for all you do! You’re the first person I’ve found that can talk about ladder bar suspension. The short time I’ve been subscribed to your channel, I’ve learned a ton! Take care, go fast, go straight and be SAFE! My new found motto!
Good stuff, thanks.
Fred G thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Question will this work with front wheel drive drag cars ?
I have never done any front wheel drive drag cars. Sorry. Same theories apply but you will need to watch the toe and camber on the hit and see what it does. Good video is priceless. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Hello like your mouth I think you're incredible communicator that has developed a very nice understandable way to explain the math and the purpose of the math I've ran across in life many people know those words but don't really know what to do with the math once they get the numbers they have no idea the math meaning the numbers are a tuning device it is a tool it's the most important tool in the toolbox if you know all the dots as I'm calling it where the mathematical numbers are as to roll center rear Roll center center of gravity four-link instant Center Lathan height rear steer separation and so on and so on and so on every single thing I just named has a number and if you eliminate physically looking at a race car as parts and look at the race car as numbers all you need is the numbers then you can build the Cosmetic look and the structural pickup points they have tunable locations so that you can move the numbers around as necessary to change attitude of car once you establish the number locations you can fabricate your chassis to have the pickup points tunable to build contain the numbers to work in your benefit the key word here is knowing what to do with the numbers as a tool not just as a word for example rear wheel base Centerline of Axl the length to the instant Center of 4 Link then the height of instant Center then calculate to them length of the mass which in the front becomes 600-lb of engine or more or less let's just use for example Centerline of axle 55in forwards instant Center 6in High instant Center and engine set back from Center vaxcel 83 in I used a 23-inch difference number 23 in from back of block to instant Center length as you can move that 23-inch number to be 26-28 or go shorter up to 2016 in your moving the instant Center length closer to the mass of the engine or farther away from the mass of the engine which then has a large input on load I'd like to speak to you on Telephone how do I do that
Scott, I am about 4 weeks out on all remote suspension work, but I would encourage you to checkout my Services on my website at samsonperformance.com/services.html and see if one fits your needs. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Great video but you said 250 degrees though?! Haha
Bryan Hernandez thanks so much for your comments! Well, maybe 95 degrees, but it felt like 250, LOL! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
How about awd drag cars?
Sorry.. not following you exactly. AWD drives cars will need same principles applied to camber, caster and toe in if that is what you are asking. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
1 16th inch toe in
½ * - camber
I think you meant to say " I COULDN'T care less how your car drives on the return road " , not " I COULD care least less "
Think about it . If you couldn't care less that means you care the least you possibly could lol