Just completed this recently. It took me a little over 3 hours. I took time to clean everything that needed to be removed before putting it back and took care of some corrosion on the battery terminals. Had to let the engine cool down before I could get my hand in place to loosen the two side bolts on the battery tray. Also dropped one of them but was able to reach up underneath and feel around until I found it. The biggest problem I ran into was on the rear driver's side plug - even with a 3" wobble extension there was not enough room to pop the ratchet off. I eventually got it off by using a putty knife to extract it from the extension. Then I used a square drive socket cap from Harbor Freight that I got "just in case" this kind of thing happened. So that one got tightened with a crescent wrench. If I had to do it again it's probably a 45 minute job provided the engine is cool when starting. Changed them at 105,000 miles. Plugs didn't look bad at all.....they all still had the correct gap. Idle seems a little smoother and it might have a little more pep under acceleration but I haven't seen any MPG gain.
We're tipping about 140k with the Outback now, and she's still kicking without any issue. Most of our miles were all highway and easy driving. at 100k, I'd expect to see pretty clean plugs unless there's something else awry in the engine. As she's still in pristine condition cosmetically as well, hoping we can get to 250k or beyond before she becomes more of a basketcase than I want to deal with. - Agreed on the 'second time is faster' by far!
Thanks for the video. It wasn't as bad as I was expecting. What was key for me was having many options for having different lengths of extension using extensions,swivels, even a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. I was able to get a torque wrench on all the plugs using various length extensions and swivels. Taking the battery box off is a must. Not to bad with a ratcheting 14mm box end for the two side bolts. Have a magnetic pickup tool to pull sockets out of the spark plug hole because they are deep. Also have a long flat blade screwdriver to pry apart sockets, extensions etc while the socket is still in the hole. This is necessary because they need to be taken apart before you can get them out. Also I used an impact driver and deep socket to get the battery hold down bolts off to save time. They are long. Also a quick way to put the battery tray bolts in.
Thanks for the reply! Indeed not as bad as expected, but still not as simply as the plugs on my old '52, that's for sure! I swear, sometimes the engineers and designers sit in a room and come up with the most ineffective ways to build cars to allow them to be worked on, by a dealer, or DIY'er..
Thank you for the video. Just purchased used 2015 OB in showroom condition with 121k miles (2 days ago). Unfortunately have not talked the dealer into releasing any dealer service history yet. Just scheduled outstanding recalls with him yesterday (exhaust, yes it needs it; EBP and relay). I did differentials and engine oil so far, trans is next unless they confirm it was done; spark plugs and fuel filter next (unknown on the filter, mixed results on the searches, have not found it yet, some say in the tank, some parts suppliers show external canister). The OB runs like new, very well used and cared for, just sketchy on the detailed search service, very routine service recorded on Carfax, not by a dealer. This is my 3rd Subaru, 2009 Forester XT, new; 2013 OB, new. Thank you.
We did the 100k maintenance at the dealer with fluids etc. I've done all the brake work here. Recently I discovered the rear was out of alignment and had that corrected by the dealer, but the plugs should be a snap to do on your own as long as you can get the plugs out, that was the biggest hassle I had, which wasn't even bad!
Not an easy plug change, but not too bad. The plug nearest the driver was a pain and took a lot of manipulation. As many have said, get a grabber tool before you start or you'll have a very hard time getting the plugs out. On a side note, does the battery mount really have to be bolted in that securely? Those 2 lower bolts were a PITA to get to. Thanks for the video. Helped a lot! Thank god this only has to happen every 100k.
A guy could probably use a drop of blue thread-lock and not be as concerned, but it's my wife's car and I want to ensure everything is as it should be.
I haven't seen this video yet but I'm commenting because I've been searching for this video for couple months!! Thank you!!!!!! Now I will watch it... Thanks alot man!!!
Glad that I could help! Sorry about the audio, but feel free to ask if you have any q's, or check the link for Paul's Travels Pictures for details too.
@@DachsAutos awesome thanks.. been holding off cuz I don't have much time and wife's usually out and about on weekends when I do have time since it's her outback. I checked it out and was thinking how am I gonna get that coil out... now with this vid confidence has gone up and will tackle it this weekend.. once again thank you !!
hmm... your webbrowser is fulll of S***** then,............................. I had a list, at least, of 20 videos right after few seconds, not even 10 seconds waiting... How did it take few months ... ?
Clean prior to remove with electronics cleaner. Use painter's tape to get a good grip on the spark plug. Apply anti seize to the thread love your new plugs to make the job easier next time. Wobble extensions are the key
I believe it was my basic 3" Craftsman extension with a deep socket. In a few of the plug-wells, I needed to insert the socket first, and then the extension if I recall (back holes I think)
oof.. Not off-hand. I don't recall having issues with mine. Have you tried using an actual boot removal pliers if it fits? I don't have one, but possibly it would help for you.
I'd like to say when I did this, I wouldn't be replacing them again, but now we're coming up on 190k miles with no immediate need/plan to replace the Outback,so... Maybe that would have been smart of me. On the flip side, we live on a dirt road and I didn't want things loose and vibrating around either...
@@stephenbeard9882 If I recall, I think I shoved a paper towel in the end of my socket and then shoved the bolt in so it would stay in the socket sideways.
Thanks! It’s helpful just to know it’s humanly possible. Thank you for posting this video as well. Very well done! 👍 two beer job except for these two dang bolts! 😅
I got the top battery tray side bolt out. I have no idea how to reach the bottom one. Maybe under the car and remove the skid plate, etc? It would have been nice if this video didn't skip that part. Anybody do it? How? I am using a 14mm ratcheting wrench but it's flat. Seems like I need a longer one and with a flexible head maybe. thanks
Hello, I am using a translation program. Can you tell me who the original Subaru supplier is. Which manufacturer uses Subaru to install the ignition coils?
Hi, thanks for the video, I have 2015 (4-cyl) Outback.. I found this part on RockAuto, NGK 93482 {#22401AA780, 22401AA781} Laser Iridium, is this the plug you used ? Whats the torque spec ?
I would confirm with a shop manual, I recall about 18ft lb, but a quick google search shows 13-20. Those were the plugs I used if I recall. I soured locally, but remember them being the iridium spec NGK model.
Getting ready to change plugs on '16 OB. Makes me question why I bought a subaru & whether I should buy another. The plug on the drivers side firewall side concerns me most.
The changing wasn't that bad really, it was just monkeying around trying to GET to them in the first place. None were that challenging, just tedious. I believe I just used my standard deep socket, a 4" extension and a swivel-joint to get in there.. And, of course that grabber thing. As I mentioned in the video, it took more time to get the stuff off in my way, than to change the plugs themselves. 125k miles on a 2015. No rust or anything seized, and we live in Minnesota, so.. Best of luck!
@@DachsAutos Thanks for the encouragement. Nearing 100k miles on original plugs. Don't want to pay for service when still making car payments. Just looking at the clearance I assume those coil packs must really be able to angle up sharply once popped in order to get them out. They look so long. Also did you use any die electric grease. I've read in other forums to avoid antiseeze on threads because can make easier to overtighten.
@@80srockerable Same here - we had some work done on warranty, front cv/axle and the exhaust manifold (had a crack) - This was a no brainer. The coils did bend some yes, but nothing to the point of splitting the boot. I used just a bit a grease when I put in the new plugs and went off the torque spec. No problems with over tightening.
@holio Successfull..And like many things. Could do faster the next time. I have a lot of tools. But found myself running out to buy a very long 1/4" ratchet with flexible head. Also I bought a box end wrench adapter set that converts a ratcheting box end wrench into a low profile ratchet. This was handy at removing and diving in some because you lose space as remove plug. I also found it handy to get the right length of extensions by converting between 3/8 & 1/4" adapters. Lastly I also bought a super long 14mm ratcheting wrench to make it easier to get battery bracket off.. probably wasn't completely necessary.
@@martinrangel8157 From online and Pauls Travel Pictures guide I posted, they list between .039 and .043. Even if they say 'pre-gapped' I'll double-check myself to ensure it's accurate.
The battery was actually reading well over 12v when I removed it from the vehicle, so it was only on the floor for the duration of the spark plug change.
No, I did not raise the engine. It is indeed tight as you can see, but by inserting the socket first and then attaching the ratchet and extension, I was able to get in there with little issue.
This was a total ass ache. The driver side is the worst. Very awful engineering in this aspect. I was having a very difficult time removing the driver side coil pack. You just have to pull towards you and pry out. Very disappointed
@@echoes444 I couldn’t agree more with this. Doing this job right now. Having a difficult time getting the ignition coil out. I don’t want to bend it too much and risk damaging it. WTF was Subaru thinking. They couldn’t give us an extra inch? Just pathetic engineering on their part.
Wheres the footage of you removing the battery plate? And re-attaching it? Skipped right over a very tricky and difficult maneuver. I don't need to see footage of the stuff that's a no-brainer, show me how you did the tricky stuff. Those side screws on the plate are tough to reach
The battery plate is secured by 6 14mm bolts. The 4 on top are easy. The 2 on the side I had to use a wrench and it took forever. Don't drop anything! I believe they designed this battery holder so that if you lack the ability to remove it, you should not be replacing the spark plugs.
I got the side top one off with a 14mm bolt and a 3/8 watched after I loosened and pushed the coil to the side. The bottom one I used the circle end of a crescent wrench, the trick was to maneuver it underneath so that you can pull up on it from the top to loosen it. Hope this makes sense. Currently trying to get the last coil out...
@@contreras408 I ended up taking the wheel off so I could reach it underneath...guess you already figured that one out...the whole job took me 4 1/2 hours...a lot longer than I thought it would, they charge you $500 at the shop so I guess that (kinda) makes sense
OMG…These car manufacturers are making things so hard to replace parts from batteries to spark plugs for a DIYer! $400.00+ for plug replacement and labor at the garage and that’s for 4 plugs, OUCH…
If you're a novice all around, it may be a little longer. Having been performing maintenance and routine work on vehicles for over 25 years, it was not too bad. Having the correct tools is half of it right there.
That doesn't apply to batteries from the past almost 80+ years. Back when batteries were wood yes not any longer. Has to do with moisture coming up through the wood.
Hey Steve, Just on my own personal opinion, I'll often think videos with audio dropping out had an issue with upload or encoding and will move on to the next video.
Just completed this recently. It took me a little over 3 hours. I took time to clean everything that needed to be removed before putting it back and took care of some corrosion on the battery terminals. Had to let the engine cool down before I could get my hand in place to loosen the two side bolts on the battery tray. Also dropped one of them but was able to reach up underneath and feel around until I found it. The biggest problem I ran into was on the rear driver's side plug - even with a 3" wobble extension there was not enough room to pop the ratchet off. I eventually got it off by using a putty knife to extract it from the extension. Then I used a square drive socket cap from Harbor Freight that I got "just in case" this kind of thing happened. So that one got tightened with a crescent wrench. If I had to do it again it's probably a 45 minute job provided the engine is cool when starting. Changed them at 105,000 miles. Plugs didn't look bad at all.....they all still had the correct gap. Idle seems a little smoother and it might have a little more pep under acceleration but I haven't seen any MPG gain.
We're tipping about 140k with the Outback now, and she's still kicking without any issue. Most of our miles were all highway and easy driving. at 100k, I'd expect to see pretty clean plugs unless there's something else awry in the engine. As she's still in pristine condition cosmetically as well, hoping we can get to 250k or beyond before she becomes more of a basketcase than I want to deal with. - Agreed on the 'second time is faster' by far!
@@DachsAutos I had mine at the dealership for something a couple of years ago. They changed my plugs at 84K miles.
Thanks for the video. It wasn't as bad as I was expecting. What was key for me was having many options for having different lengths of extension using extensions,swivels, even a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. I was able to get a torque wrench on all the plugs using various length extensions and swivels. Taking the battery box off is a must. Not to bad with a ratcheting 14mm box end for the two side bolts. Have a magnetic pickup tool to pull sockets out of the spark plug hole because they are deep. Also have a long flat blade screwdriver to pry apart sockets, extensions etc while the socket is still in the hole. This is necessary because they need to be taken apart before you can get them out. Also I used an impact driver and deep socket to get the battery hold down bolts off to save time. They are long. Also a quick way to put the battery tray bolts in.
Thanks for the reply! Indeed not as bad as expected, but still not as simply as the plugs on my old '52, that's for sure! I swear, sometimes the engineers and designers sit in a room and come up with the most ineffective ways to build cars to allow them to be worked on, by a dealer, or DIY'er..
@@DachsAutos Efficiency of repairs is definitely not high on their priority list. My Honda CRV luckily only took 30 minutes. Thank you Honda.
Thank you for the video.
Just purchased used 2015 OB in showroom condition with 121k miles (2 days ago). Unfortunately have not talked the dealer into releasing any dealer service history yet. Just scheduled outstanding recalls with him yesterday (exhaust, yes it needs it; EBP and relay).
I did differentials and engine oil so far, trans is next unless they confirm it was done; spark plugs and fuel filter next (unknown on the filter, mixed results on the searches, have not found it yet, some say in the tank, some parts suppliers show external canister).
The OB runs like new, very well used and cared for, just sketchy on the detailed search service, very routine service recorded on Carfax, not by a dealer.
This is my 3rd Subaru, 2009 Forester XT, new; 2013 OB, new.
Thank you.
We did the 100k maintenance at the dealer with fluids etc. I've done all the brake work here. Recently I discovered the rear was out of alignment and had that corrected by the dealer, but the plugs should be a snap to do on your own as long as you can get the plugs out, that was the biggest hassle I had, which wasn't even bad!
Not an easy plug change, but not too bad. The plug nearest the driver was a pain and took a lot of manipulation. As many have said, get a grabber tool before you start or you'll have a very hard time getting the plugs out. On a side note, does the battery mount really have to be bolted in that securely? Those 2 lower bolts were a PITA to get to. Thanks for the video. Helped a lot! Thank god this only has to happen every 100k.
A guy could probably use a drop of blue thread-lock and not be as concerned, but it's my wife's car and I want to ensure everything is as it should be.
Subaru seems to recommend plugs at 60k... you don't agree?
I haven't seen this video yet but I'm commenting because I've been searching for this video for couple months!! Thank you!!!!!! Now I will watch it... Thanks alot man!!!
Glad that I could help! Sorry about the audio, but feel free to ask if you have any q's, or check the link for Paul's Travels Pictures for details too.
@@DachsAutos awesome thanks.. been holding off cuz I don't have much time and wife's usually out and about on weekends when I do have time since it's her outback. I checked it out and was thinking how am I gonna get that coil out... now with this vid confidence has gone up and will tackle it this weekend.. once again thank you !!
hmm... your webbrowser is fulll of S***** then,............................. I had a list, at least, of 20 videos right after few seconds, not even 10 seconds waiting... How did it take few months ... ?
"basically a two beer project" haha Thanks man!
Pretty much!
Clean prior to remove with electronics cleaner. Use painter's tape to get a good grip on the spark plug. Apply anti seize to the thread love your new plugs to make the job easier next time. Wobble extensions are the key
Great suggestions! Coming up on 200k miles, I might be doing the plugs again. Anti-seize for sure this time around.
When you said grippy picker upper I immediately knew the tool lol
Grippy picker upper things = Mechanical fingers. Thanks for the vid!
Or spark plug socket. Thats the right tool
Or you can use a flexible pick up magnetic tool
Watched this before I changed mine. Good video.
Thanks so much for the video. Hey do you remember how long the socket extension was that you used? Thanks.
I believe it was my basic 3" Craftsman extension with a deep socket. In a few of the plug-wells, I needed to insert the socket first, and then the extension if I recall (back holes I think)
Any tricks for getting that driver rear coil out - I tried so hard to bend/manipulate the plug but its just too close to the rail!!
oof.. Not off-hand. I don't recall having issues with mine. Have you tried using an actual boot removal pliers if it fits? I don't have one, but possibly it would help for you.
Love the 2 beer project comment !!!!
Thanks! Sometimes you need more realistic times than the book says!
Excellent video, very helpful!
Glad to hear it!
Just got done with this. I left the side bolts for the battery box off... less to deal with next time! Also way overkill!
I'd like to say when I did this, I wouldn't be replacing them again, but now we're coming up on 190k miles with no immediate need/plan to replace the Outback,so... Maybe that would have been smart of me. On the flip side, we live on a dirt road and I didn't want things loose and vibrating around either...
Is it my imagination but it looks easier to tackle plugs from Outback than Forester????
I'd think about the same, unless the Forester is a bit narrower. If that's the case, then for sure as this was pretty tight to start with!
Question for you, boss. Did you put those two side bolts on the battery tray back in? You know the terrible torture ones? 😅
110% you bet I did. I'm sure not going to 1/2 arse the job on my wife's vehicle, much less anyone who buys it down the road.
Thanks. I just couldn’t get my hands in there to thread them back in. 😣
@@stephenbeard9882 If I recall, I think I shoved a paper towel in the end of my socket and then shoved the bolt in so it would stay in the socket sideways.
Thanks! It’s helpful just to know it’s humanly possible. Thank you for posting this video as well. Very well done! 👍 two beer job except for these two dang bolts! 😅
I got the top battery tray side bolt out. I have no idea how to reach the bottom one. Maybe under the car and remove the skid plate, etc? It would have been nice if this video didn't skip that part. Anybody do it? How? I am using a 14mm ratcheting wrench but it's flat. Seems like I need a longer one and with a flexible head maybe. thanks
Hello, I am using a translation program. Can you tell me who the original Subaru supplier is. Which manufacturer uses Subaru to install the ignition coils?
@Gecko - I don't see a label on my specific vehicle, but I see that DENSO may be a good OEM replacement option
Hi, thanks for the video, I have 2015 (4-cyl) Outback.. I found this part on RockAuto, NGK 93482 {#22401AA780, 22401AA781} Laser Iridium, is this the plug you used ? Whats the torque spec ?
I would confirm with a shop manual, I recall about 18ft lb, but a quick google search shows 13-20. Those were the plugs I used if I recall. I soured locally, but remember them being the iridium spec NGK model.
Awesome video 👍👍👍
Thank you 👍
Getting ready to change plugs on '16 OB. Makes me question why I bought a subaru & whether I should buy another. The plug on the drivers side firewall side concerns me most.
The changing wasn't that bad really, it was just monkeying around trying to GET to them in the first place. None were that challenging, just tedious. I believe I just used my standard deep socket, a 4" extension and a swivel-joint to get in there.. And, of course that grabber thing. As I mentioned in the video, it took more time to get the stuff off in my way, than to change the plugs themselves. 125k miles on a 2015. No rust or anything seized, and we live in Minnesota, so.. Best of luck!
@@DachsAutos Thanks for the encouragement. Nearing 100k miles on original plugs. Don't want to pay for service when still making car payments. Just looking at the clearance I assume those coil packs must really be able to angle up sharply once popped in order to get them out. They look so long. Also did you use any die electric grease. I've read in other forums to avoid antiseeze on threads because can make easier to overtighten.
@@80srockerable Same here - we had some work done on warranty, front cv/axle and the exhaust manifold (had a crack) - This was a no brainer. The coils did bend some yes, but nothing to the point of splitting the boot. I used just a bit a grease when I put in the new plugs and went off the torque spec. No problems with over tightening.
@holio Successfull..And like many things. Could do faster the next time. I have a lot of tools. But found myself running out to buy a very long 1/4" ratchet with flexible head. Also I bought a box end wrench adapter set that converts a ratcheting box end wrench into a low profile ratchet. This was handy at removing and diving in some because you lose space as remove plug. I also found it handy to get the right length of extensions by converting between 3/8 & 1/4" adapters. Lastly I also bought a super long 14mm ratcheting wrench to make it easier to get battery bracket off.. probably wasn't completely necessary.
@holio The plugs looked better than expected for 98k miles.
Hey, did this add any hp or torque to the car? Or did you notice any performance upgrades? Cool car! :)
No real performance upgrades, just routine maintenance.
@@DachsAutos Ok, thanks man.
Does it only take 4 Spark Plugs?
Yes, this is the 4-cylinder model, not the 6.
Claw retriever….?! They are super handy.
Yes they are! They also work really well for saving the 10mm socket I keep dropping in the belly pan as well!
Awesome Video! TY
Glad you liked it!
Do you know the part number to the NGK LASER SPARK PLUGS?
Hi Martin - You can look this part number up: SILZKAR7B11
Perfect Got it! TY
Are they PreseT to 0.044??
Ive done a run through on Oreillys and Autozone and it states they are pre-set 🤔
Pre-gap is what I ment
@@martinrangel8157 From online and Pauls Travel Pictures guide I posted, they list between .039 and .043. Even if they say 'pre-gapped' I'll double-check myself to ensure it's accurate.
Battery will drain if you leave it on bare concrete. Place a piece of cardboard or wood scrap between battery and floor.
The battery was actually reading well over 12v when I removed it from the vehicle, so it was only on the floor for the duration of the spark plug change.
That’s a myth.
hi. did you raise the engine up too. I have a 2015 outback and it seems to be too tight between engine and rail?
No, I did not raise the engine. It is indeed tight as you can see, but by inserting the socket first and then attaching the ratchet and extension, I was able to get in there with little issue.
i was wondering about coil,it looks too long . since its rubber can i bent it when I'm pulling it out or it will make damage to it?
@@shahabbatha9327 I bent ours a bit to get it out/in with no issues! I voided any sharp bends, but slight bends were no issue.
This was a total ass ache. The driver side is the worst. Very awful engineering in this aspect. I was having a very difficult time removing the driver side coil pack. You just have to pull towards you and pry out. Very disappointed
@@echoes444 I couldn’t agree more with this. Doing this job right now. Having a difficult time getting the ignition coil out. I don’t want to bend it too much and risk damaging it. WTF was Subaru thinking. They couldn’t give us an extra inch? Just pathetic engineering on their part.
You should specify the engine for this (4 or 6 cyl) in title
Thanks for the idea! I'll do that right now!
Thank you
You're welcome
Good information but I wish there was more lighting.
Working on it
Wheres the footage of you removing the battery plate? And re-attaching it? Skipped right over a very tricky and difficult maneuver. I don't need to see footage of the stuff that's a no-brainer, show me how you did the tricky stuff. Those side screws on the plate are tough to reach
The battery plate is secured by 6 14mm bolts. The 4 on top are easy. The 2 on the side I had to use a wrench and it took forever. Don't drop anything! I believe they designed this battery holder so that if you lack the ability to remove it, you should not be replacing the spark plugs.
I got the side top one off with a 14mm bolt and a 3/8 watched after I loosened and pushed the coil to the side. The bottom one I used the circle end of a crescent wrench, the trick was to maneuver it underneath so that you can pull up on it from the top to loosen it. Hope this makes sense. Currently trying to get the last coil out...
@@contreras408 I ended up taking the wheel off so I could reach it underneath...guess you already figured that one out...the whole job took me 4 1/2 hours...a lot longer than I thought it would, they charge you $500 at the shop so I guess that (kinda) makes sense
LMAO!!! Two beer job. Thats how I estimate time too, is with beers. Now I know what I'm up against.
More like two kegs job. Is not as easy as it looks in this fast-forward video.
OMG…These car manufacturers are making things so hard to replace parts from batteries to spark plugs for a DIYer! $400.00+ for plug replacement and labor at the garage and that’s for 4 plugs, OUCH…
Indeed it's becoming more problematic for the average person at home!
It is definitely not a two-beer project, especially if it is your first time.
If you're a novice all around, it may be a little longer. Having been performing maintenance and routine work on vehicles for over 25 years, it was not too bad. Having the correct tools is half of it right there.
It's 2 beers just getting the damn battery tray off...and then back on
putting battery on cement will drain it to it's death
The battery was on its way out, but the over-voltage was the concerning part..
That doesn't apply to batteries from the past almost 80+ years. Back when batteries were wood yes not any longer. Has to do with moisture coming up through the wood.
Soon the plugs will be under the intake. Unserviceable
Boo. when that day comes, I'll get a Model X and be done with ICE vehicles.
Sad thing is they are already there in some v 6 cylinders front wheel drive cars.
Why so people alyways put some sorry music to go along with things, silence is best.
Hey Steve, Just on my own personal opinion, I'll often think videos with audio dropping out had an issue with upload or encoding and will move on to the next video.
the music is too loud. louder than the voice is bad
really? why even have any music? it distracts also