with the amount of fluid required, probably same effect as changing the CVT oil via normal process every 10,000 miles instead of waiting to 100,000 miles. probably better for the transmission not to have all that wear. that's what i do anyway, every second service = CVT oil change. i think that's about 2/3 of the fluid changed each time.
As a past Subaru mechanic I went to cvt schooling in the mid 80's because the 3 cylinder justy model used it. I've also done a few 2013-2017 cvt services and I strongly recommend dropping the pan to clean the magnets ( yes 2 magnets)!! Cvt's she'd more metal than a normal trans and one 2013 cvt service I performed for the first time at 90,000 miles both magnets were full and on the verge of not being able to retain any more metal. Nice video!
Hello, greetings from Spain, my name is David and I have a Subaru Forester 2.0 diesel sj from 2016, I want to congratulate you for the great video you have about subaru cvt oil change, here in Spain and Europe the official dealers have no idea of change the cvt oil, besides that the spare parts are very expensive. Thanks to the great video of him saved the lives of many European Subaru CVTs, thank you very much again, if it weren't for people like you, our Subaru would end up damaged by the useless mechanics of Subaru Spain.
So glad I watched this as this has been bothering me on my purchase, as the dealer wants $700 plus to do full flush, as I can figure the oil runs about @22 a quart, so after the oil cost that means they are charging like $500 labor, well that's too fuc'n much, so thanks, I've seen several of these trans. service videos and they just drain once and refill, so thanks for going the extra mile to show us how easy it is...Javi G.
In my opinion, as long as you do a 5 qt drain and fill to freshen the fluid every 20,000 miles or so, that will be more than adequate to protect the CVT for the life of the vehicle. Of course there is nothing wrong with doing a full flush, but that's way too much work for me lol.
@@todd1hd If it's never been changed, you may not want to do a full flush. I've seen cases where a CVT with high mileage and original fluid started acting up after flushing it. Apparently, the debris in the old fluid can add a little friction during operation and when you remove that debris the CVT can start to slip. Given your mileage, I'd just do a 5qt drain and fill and see how that goes.
I did this method with a 2015 impreza i bought for my son at an auction. It worked great and really helped both my son and i learn together. Really appreciate the time you took to make the video.
You are extremely precise and detailed. The thoroughness of your job and presentation is outstanding. Even the factory may not take as much care in assembling the car as you do in the maintenance! Since the CVT uses friction to push the belt between squeezing pulleys the frictional coefficient of fluid is critical and as you know that can only be maintained through fluid renewal.
Update: prior to doing the CVTF change, I had the opportunity to take a 280 mile round trip in the vehicle in about 85 degree weather. I took the OBDII reader and the app. The highest temperature recorded for the CVT was 230 degrees Fahrenheit. Fast forward two weeks and CVTF replacement later the same trip with the same conditions is repeated. The maximum temperature this time did not exceed 196 degrees Fahrenheit. While we can debate back and forth that the fluid may or may not replacement even after my 97k miles, but this I know: the CVT is now operating at a temperature that is 30 or so degree lower with the new fluid. That to me is justification enough to do the replacement. Now if I can only figure out how to reset the CVT fluid deterioration rate to something like .8% (given that the purge never really cleans out the oil)....it is at the 7.59% from prior to change.....
watched a bunch of videos before doing this, and your method is for sure the best method to make sure your getting everything out before putting in the new fluid. I am surprised you didn't take off the pan and change out the filter.
Thank you so much for this wonderful, thorough, informative video!!! We were totally in a panic after accidentally removing the CVT plug not the oil plug during an oil change and this video allowed us to deal with the self-created emergency. THANK YOU!
I am literally in the same situation right now. Got the transmission cover removed and need to get an 8mm allen to start this pump process. I'm still pretty stressed but grateful to see I'm not the only one who's made the oil plug/transmission plug mistake and that add fluid using this method will help me recover.
Thanks for sharing. I would've started at the heat exchanger. Disconnect the return line, use an inline connector and attach it to a clear line and place that into the container holding your clean fluid, I'd prime that line and add a couple more quarts to avoid sucking air into the system. Now, the port in the heat exchanger that the return line was attached to, run another clear line to an empty 5 gal bucket and start the car, shifting through the gears. The transmission will suck in nice clean cool transmission fluid, go through the heat exchanger into the empty bucket. When you see clean fluid running into the waste bucket, shut it down and put the input line back on the heat exchanger. Then go through a final fill procedure like you did at the end. Doing it this way will flush out the cvt, torque converter, and heat exchanger. I used to do this all the time in "normal" transmissions. I know a cvt is a different animal. But, it has a pump and a tongue converter and a heat exchanger. It'll work and you'll have 100% brand new fluid in it.
Your way of connecting fluid lines is what I do when flushing tranny fluids on my Toyotas - let the tranny suck new fluid and blow out old fluid from the radiator tranny cooler line until it is bright red. But this is only good if the CVT “In” port (return port) also ‘sucks’ otherwise his method will suffice.
@bygonebob His method works, no doubt. CVT's have a pump as well, it has too. I used the procedure I mentioned last month. I wish I would've made a video showing that procedure.
Thank you for this reply, I'm due for a CVT fluid change and this is exactly what I was looking for, I too previously did the method you described in my GMC 'normal' transmission and was thinking the same thing, "why not let the transmission 'suck' new cvt fluid since it should have a pump" I searched what seams all Subaru CVT fluid service videos and they all used other methods to pump fluids back into the cvt, but not the method you mentioned of letting the trans use the pumps suction to get the fluid back into the trans, which seems to me to be so much easier.
I always had the Stealer do this expensive service, being I knew there was a fluid temp for proper fill level. No more Stealer doing this service for me. Thank you for your time and quality in this vid. Same as your other vids too.
guaranteed, you went above and beyond what any Subaru dealer service center or other auto shop would ever do. Great work. At 60000 I got a new CTV transmission because the dealer service center cracked the case following replacement of a line that blew out.
Fantastic video -- "the rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say. Love the attention to detail, including bits that I have not seen anywhere else. THANK YOU !
Finally got around to doing this on my wife's '14 Forester Premium 2.5 cvt engine, today. Pretty level on jack stands. COLD engine. When I removed the fill plug, I got a surprise! Plenty of cvt fluid came gushing out (est. 1/2 to 1 qt). Wasn't expecting that. But, after everything was done, I had the same amount of old fluid from the pan as you did, about 5 1/2 qts. Closer to 5 1/4 qts, actually. I used my bbq meat thermometer to read the fluid temperature (103º F) instead of your phone app and device. Just pan drain and refill. I'll do this every other year or so. Thanks for your video!
@@carlrasmussen3267 gotcha, that would be why. I think i actually drained my pan first, then pulled the fill plug, but once I edited the footage it shows removing the fill plug first, but no fluid comes out. Thats a my bad for editing, not a big deal though.
@@MTsubfly What I don't get is if the engine is cold, the fluid hasn't expanded. Yet, when the new fluid has been pumped in, we heated it up to within specs and it should just trickle out of the fill hole at the end of the procedure. Weird. Was the factory cvt fluid overfilled? Or, does the fluid naturally expand over time, hot or cold? I don't know. Nonetheless, your video is the best I've seen on this. Thanks again, MT.
Thanks a lot. I just used your videos to do the 60k service on my 2016 Impreza. Did the front and rear diff fluid, CVT fluid, brake fluid, spark plugs, and air filter. 😅 Wow it was a lot of work but the local dealer wanted over $2k. I think it cost me about $250 in parts/fluids and took most of the day to complete. Worth it not to get raked over the coals. Next I need to service my 2017 Outback. Should be able to do it a bit quicker now that I know what I’m doing! 👍🏼 Only things I might have the dealer do for me around 130k miles is the fuel filter and coolant flush. Thanks again.
Great video with clear explanations. I own a Subaru Outback 2020 and will certainly change CVT fluid myself as recommended by you and Mr Subaru 1387, 3 years / 36,000 miles regardless of what my dealer tells me. I use Veepeak and Car Scanner to get CVT oil temp. Keep doing superb videos.
Your recommendation to use HD hand garden sprayer pump is ingenious. Compared with the other automotive pumps that I price out, it is a steal! Since I heard dealer charge $250+ for a drain and fill. I will diy it for the first time on my two subies. Can’t thank you enough. I recommend water test the HD pump first to make sure you got a good one.
I like what you did. I am getting ready to do this on my Crosstrek. I have done this on other AT vehicles I have owned. What I did was remove the return line from the cooler and just "pumped" out fluid there. I pumped the old fluid out and you don't have to use any compressed air to blow anything out. Just another way to accomplish the same thing and you don't need compressed air.
@@tdizzle2179 I guess I wasn't clear on my comment. Sorry. I didn't use an actual pump. I disconnected the line from the cooler (heat exchanger) that returns transmission fluid back to the transmission. It is labeled in the video (4:33). I took it off at the transmission and not the cooler. Although, it really doesn't matter a whole lot and you could take it off at the cooler; however, this would make your hoses/connectors a little different. I connected a hose to extend the line using a double barbed fitting you can get at a hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot. (Sorry, I don't remember the size.) I put the hose into a container I could measure the amount. My wife got in the car and started it up. With the car running the transmission fluid does "pump" out of the transmission to the cooler. I would "pump" a quart out and then add a quart. I did this until the fluid looked clean/new. If you are using this method, it does take 2 people and make sure you have the person turn off the car a little before you reach the amount you want to pump out as it does flow a little while the car is shutting off. I have used this method on other vehicles to get the remaining used/old fluid out of the system. I hope this helps and clarifies.
Hey there. Just wanted to thank you for your videos on CVTF and Front Diff oil replacement . I did these on a 2015 Subaru Outback 2.5L, and let me tell everyone it’s exactly the same. Even the Front Diff Fill Plug located on top of the front right drive shaft was over tightened and took a major push to break. So thanks again, other than an oil spill (my fault) in the engine compartment, it went rather smoothly. The back and forth underneath to fill the CVTF was annoying but that is what is required....... I used an OBD II reader and the free ActiveOBD app and it was a cinch.
@@elizabethpaguio8175 I am sure you can get it anywhere. The prices were the same so I went to the dealer. Bought extra, just in case something went wrong, and returned the extra after I was done. But this was awhile ago. I don’t know what the pricing is today.
Great video. Your explanation during the video was super helpful. My dealer just quoted me $295 to change and flush. I’m going to call him to verify they will flush for that price and have him explain the process to make sure he tells me the temperatures and shifting thru the gears.
Wow... great video, very informative. I'm the original.owner of my 2015 Legacy and I know nothing other than doing an oil change. Your videos are gonna save me some money (hopefully) I am at 110,00 miles and have not done anything to my car yet. I better get some tools and get to work. You mentioned Lithia Subaru in the description, good to know Oregonians (Milwaukie here) still help each other out. Again, great videos.
Thank you for this vid it is very helpful. I had the same issue with my Honda Civic transmission. The dealership said that they should never be power flushed so they recommended draining, replacing, driving the vehicle through all the gears until it’s fully warmed up and then draining again replacing, driving through all the gears until thoroughly warmed up again and then draining and replacing and you would get over 90% of the old fluid
@@dabneyoffermein595 Since heat rises and you’re laying under the vehicle to do the drain, it’s really not a hot job. You just wear thick rubber gloves and you’re good to go.
Excellent video with nice and clear instructions. I own an Outback 2020 and it uses CVTF-III oil and Subaru doesn’t sell this oil in quart or gallon. One way of stopping DIY and force you to have it done at dealer...$$$$$.
don't do it , type II should be fine. It's a hustle is all, just a hustle. here's the link to VERY affordable exact type II replacement fluid www.rallysportdirect.com/part/transmission-fluid/3074-300-eneos-cvt-fluid-model-s-1qt?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9O6HBhCrARIsADx5qCRjUSr0kPm3ttpSO9OKCuhhpRy0T9Rq6Nj0gdYkqsN2OtMJZK79BZ4aAtquEALw_wcB
2017 Outback transmission #TR580SHACA. Thank you for the great instruction in this video. It was all very helpful (except for the background music). My transmission has the side rear port assembled with a metal tube and I did not want to disturb it, so I did not flush the lines but simply jumped to flushing the transmission with the vinyl tubing step. I flushed 3 times and had the shift lever moved during the 2nd and 3rd flushes. My BAFX OBD2 and ActiveOBD app worked great and that was the most excellent direction you provided since not many units or apps provide trans. fluid temp info., certainly not the FIXD scanner. I did not remove the pan but likely will next time just to check for metal dust. The filter will likely never be changed since it is only a metal screen and not a fine mesh. PARTS: Fluid: Subaru CVTF-2 (green) drain plug crush washers 803916010 (same as oil drain plug) flat portion faces bolt head fill port gasket/seal 803918060 Tips: I applied very wide strong tape below the fill port, long enough to go past the pan to guide the flow and prevent a mess. I covered the catalytic converter and the rubber axle boot below the side port heavily to avoid dripping on them. A Sharpie body will fit into the trans. hose to prevent dripping after it had emptied itself. Push the Sharpie in only 1/2". A few V-8 juice bottles worked great for catching the flushed fluid. I used my two-post lift :)
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You do an outstanding job on all of your videos. I think that it's interesting that your Suburu dealer took the easy way out. Even more reason to do it yourself, using your method. Thanks again! George in FL.
Great Video. Super helpful and precise. You helped me changed my CVT fluid. It would be helpful for another viewer to explain that the crush washer is against the pan. I really appreciate the time you took to make this video! PS. Enjoy the coffee!!!!
Amazing job. Makes it look easy. Greetings from Jamaica 🇯🇲. I have a Subaru Impreza g4 2017 limited edition (JAPANESE model) but I think it's the same procedure. Definitely gonna subscribe to this channel.
The partial (approx 6 Qt) CVT transmission drain & fill at the dealership in Louisville, KY costs $250.00 while the radiator drain & fill costs $265.00
Great video man. Really in detail but simply and straight forward. I have a 2013 Crosstrek and I'm sure it's a very similar process. I have been researching and watching videos and you're the only 1 that took off the hoses and blew out all the old fluid in the lines. I didn't see anybody else flushing it like you did either. You used 13 quarts but said next time you'll only do 2 flushes so how many quarts do you estimate that would be? Thanks again for this video. I found it to be the best one I've come across.
The most important point with the transmission fluid change, is not waiting longer than 1000 miles before changing it. Sending a portion of this fluid for a metal analysis is also wise. Also a secondary analysis after a multiple thousands of miles will give you a sense of security.
Idemitsu CVTF Type SB2 is a direct replacement for Subaru CVTF II fluid. Idemitsu manufactures Subaru's fluid and it's about 30-40% cheaper than buying from Subaru. I did a 10 quart flush for $120
There are lots of notes here, difficult to sort through them. Anyway you can add a note above for XT owners? XT owners fill plug is at the back side facing the rear of the car. Fill plug on XT is a 10mm hex. Fill plug takes the large gasket. Otherwise this was a super helpful video TY One other thing, If you own a FIXT port reader, you are good to go!!! ActiveOBD iOS bluetooths to the FIXT port reader and gives you the CTV temp for free. I will be returning my OBDII reader back to Amamzon, as it did not WiFi properly to the app. Glad I tried my FIXT port reader, to use with ActiveOBD. Cheers!
You’re a fucking legend for this. My transmission fluid has just started looking a tad gross, more or less in the first stages. This is mighty helpful, thank you xx
This is one way to do it. I prefer to drain the pan and then refill it. Then blow out the lines like you did. Then you can also take a 2 longer piece of the clear tube you put one in a large enough container to hold the amount of fluid you are taking out. This will be on the pressure side. I prefer a 5 gallon bucket and then zip tie the line so it does not come out of the bucket. Then I take a second clean bucket and fill it with enough clean oil to meet the capacity of the transmission plus at least a couple of more quarts. Take the second clear tubing and run it from the transmission suction side and down into the bottom of the clean new oil in the 5 gallon bucket and zip tie so it does not come out. Usually best to have an assistant help you if possible. Start the car and run at idle. The dirty oil will start to flow out and the new oil will be sucked in. You can also shift through the gears to get even more old oil out. Do this until you see the change in oil color like you did and then stop car and reconnect hoses and be sure to warm up and adjust oil level. Works on almost all cars.
Great video! This was the best one I found while searching. Did my 2017 Outback 2.5i today, just did a drain and fill for the first time at 110,000km. I actually ended up using Eneos CVT Model S which is specific to Subaru transmissions that require CVTF II. Stuff is even green like the OEM Subaru CVTF II.
@@MTsubfly how many quarts of Enoes should I buy? instead of the method you used, can i do it without the full flush and just do this procedure like twice or three times in a 6 month period? If I just do the 5 quart swap out, do i still have to do the 100 degree thing and have the car running through all the gears? just seems scary to have it running and up on jack-stands and all of that. what about the cost of the dealership doing it, how much do they charge? I'm in Indiana, USA
@@dabneyoffermein595 after doing the flush myself, I would say just start with draining and refilling the pan. (6qts ish) and yes you need to set the level at specified temperature. It's really not hard, and if you have quality Jack's appropriately rated you will be fine. Note, it is way easier as shown in the video to start With a cold transmission (below 90 degrees f). Drain the pan, full the pan, start car and refill the pan, insert plug by hand. Now wait for the temp to raise into the appropriate temp range, remove the plug and let the excess run out. So easy. (This is a generalized explanation)
@@MTsubfly excellent, thanks!! that makes me feel much better about it. i have jack stands and I usually back them up with a floor jack in case they give way. they are not the best and not the worst but are old.. perhaps i could even put the car on ramps because since I'm not doing a full flush, i suppose it wouldn't hurt to have it angled and then drain and fill ? temp check, rinse , repeat. Darn, i have to find that cheap ODB II i bought on the internet, thing works like a charm with an android app. Time to dig it up.
This is a great video, I really like the part where you use the spray bottle. I have a small electric pump that I use but the spray bottle is a good idea.
Awesome video!! I am about to perform this service along with front and rear diff change on my 2017 Outback 2.5i Limited. Thanks a ton for all of this info!!
@@MTsubfly I actually just watched that vid too! Quick question, what are your thoughts on replacing the strainer inside the transmission pan? I only have 60,000 miles on my '17 Outback, so I probably wouldn't even consider it until well over 100,000 miles. Just was curious if that's something that needs to be replaced at some point. Of course, there isn't a service interval for this. All I can find is that it doesn't need to be replaced unless it is damaged. Thanks for the help!
@@jnepute good question. My opinion is for the average DIYer it risks contaminating the internals, and really isn't needed. Changing the fluid removes the bulk of the finest debris, and refreshes the properties of the wearing fluid. I bet that screen is for larger debris (20 micron maybe?) There is an actual filter in the transmission but requires splitting the case to change (huge job). If you do it, make sure to replace the gaskets, its not going to hurt doing it, just not likely needed. Usually anything with an oil pump has a pick-up screen to protect the pump, maybe thats its purpose? Hope this helps, just my thoughts...
Dear friend, I just did a total change of the cvt fluid using dialysis and with an electric pump (15,85 quarts / 15 liters). If you knew the amount of dirt and ferrous particles that accumulate on the tray and on the magnet with only 35,000 km you would probably not be so thorough in cleaning the threaded plugs ;)
Despite Subaru and others saying 'lifetime' means forever not just useful life and the issues with transmissions being sensitive to debris disturbance and seals swelling and such, many that choose to drain & fill do so not just to extend the life of the vehicle but don't ever to flushes. The regular addition of partial capacity is less dramatic, and easier, and many say less risky. Again considering Subaru says don't ever change it. Applaud the thoroughness, but long term opinions evolve over time as well.
just to confirm 2014 subaru forrester premium 2.5L model also use cvtf ii fluid? i accidentally drained the transmission fluid, your video is such a great help, thank you very much!
Great Video - Thank you! I have watched many other videos on this subject and yours is by far the best. One thing I'm wondering is why some are saying there needs to be a relearn for the transmission after flushing/refilling. Is that really needed? You did not mention it and I suspect you did not perform the relearn.
We own a 19 Outback 2.5, CVT 11 Rav 4WD Limited with a 3.5 V6, 5 spd auto transmission, 11 Ford Ranger XLT super cab 4X4, 4.0 V6, 5spd auto transmission. I have the oil changed every 4K miles with Mobile 1 full synthetic. Every 30K miles I have the front and rear differential, transfer case, transmission flush. These are a Must to keep your vehicles in top condition. Also change all your belts and hose’s and have your radiator flushed every 5-10 years depending on how many miles you drive.
Great Video. Going to save an watch and take notes again before starting my own job. That Subaru fluid is very prices and vs the price of my used forester, I think I will just use the Canadian Tire brand fluid which is to spec and manufactured by Shell (I think... one of the big oil companies anyways). Thanks agin for posting. Cheers from Alberta Canada
I read somewhere on the internet a guy who used the Valvoline brand, it was good for 15k miles then ran rough, but when he went back to subaru fluid, he claimed no issues after 30k miles. Personally I would stay Subaru fluid, but if you pioneer the use of a different fluid, come back and let us know how you like it! Cheers!
My Gal got quoted $1400 for a 60K Maintenance in Ukiah, CA. Looking at Maintenance List; looks like this Tranny and Differential(s), and Engine oil change, and Spark Plugs are the biggest part (on top of inspections ( including belt tensions) ... Nice to see DIYer support for a complete transmission change. Thanks. Might go for saving my Gal a grand from that Deal Cost 🏊🚣🏄🌠
Amazing. Just well done. Please indulge me by helping me understand something. A simple drain and fill takes let’s say 5 quarts- measured exactly by draining and measuring the fluid. Then you pour in the 5 replacement quarts and finger tighten the fill plug. If then I measure exactly what is removed by running the engine and using the oil cooler outlet method you showed, and do it say twice and each time add exactly what was removed would it be necessary then to go through the temperature check method to ensure proper fluid final quantity? Once again: top notch work.
Thanks a bunch. Yes you should set the fluid level using the transmissions read-out temp. Consider if your method went well, has there ever been a leak, one that is hidden? Are you the original owner? Has anyone else ever worked on the CVT? Even just a tech that pulled the plug to "inspect" the fluid and level? Was the fluid level set correctly at the factory? All the variable's and margins of error could leave you with incorrect fluid level and damage to the CVT. Short answer: Use the temp method. Good luck!
MT Thank you. Let’s assume that’s it’s the first time and when the filler plug is opened there is a slight drainage implying that the level is good. I was just thinking out loud as to why fresh oil will flow out at the last stage and the filler plug is to be tightened to torque with a warm engine and a slight drip. Confuses me arithmetically speaking.... given you can pour in exactly what you drained😀 who knows? Maybe a chemical engineer....
@@Yankee7000 you still wanna use the temp method. If you pull your fill plug without the car running, you will have a bunch of fluid all over you. Level must be set at temp, car running. This probably has to do with each cvt needing slightly different amounts of fluid, based on how much each system consumes at idle ( torque converters, cooler & lines etc.) They probably have a good reason for this vs a more common method like a manual trans.
Very good video, but just want to state that my 2014 Forester I bought used with about 69,000 miles the transmission failed. I took it back to the dealer I bought it from because it had what is called the Forever Warranty provided for free from the dealer. The warranty company installs used replacement parts so they installed a trans with about 72,000 miles. About 18 months later the trans failed again so now they installed another used trans with 88,000 miles, both are from LKQ. But the real problem is the Forester CVT that Subaru installs just flat out is bad. You can see on line the many transmission failures that these Foresters have. Subaru even had to extend their transmission warranty to 100,000 miles due to how bad they are designed. If someone out there has had the same transmission failures on similar year Foresters please comment, because I don't think it's just changing of the fluid that makes these Forester transmissions fail.
my latest video: ruclips.net/video/G4t8rmrm08A/видео.html
with the amount of fluid required, probably same effect as changing the CVT oil via normal process every 10,000 miles instead of waiting to 100,000 miles. probably better for the transmission not to have all that wear. that's what i do anyway, every second service = CVT oil change. i think that's about 2/3 of the fluid changed each time.
In a 2018 subaru crosstrek limited has a filter in the transmission? Or it has no filter ??
As a past Subaru mechanic I went to cvt schooling in the mid 80's because the 3 cylinder justy model used it.
I've also done a few 2013-2017 cvt services and I strongly recommend dropping the pan to clean the magnets ( yes 2 magnets)!!
Cvt's she'd more metal than a normal trans and one 2013 cvt service I performed for the first time at 90,000 miles both magnets were full and on the verge of not being able to retain any more metal. Nice video!
What did you use to reseal the pan? And did you have to let the adhesive dry or fully cure before adding the new fluid?
Don’t forget the filter
that is good idea, you should make a video
Do you think it needs to replace gasket when take of the pan?
Можно прилепить ниодимовые магниты снаружи на поддон
I did mine drain and fill about month ago with 135000km on the car, even just one drain and fill makes the transmission run much smoother.
Hello, greetings from Spain, my name is David and I have a Subaru Forester 2.0 diesel sj from 2016, I want to congratulate you for the great video you have about subaru cvt oil change, here in Spain and Europe the official dealers have no idea of change the cvt oil, besides that the spare parts are very expensive. Thanks to the great video of him saved the lives of many European Subaru CVTs, thank you very much again, if it weren't for people like you, our Subaru would end up damaged by the useless mechanics of Subaru Spain.
So glad I watched this as this has been bothering me on my purchase, as the dealer wants $700 plus to do full flush, as I can figure the oil runs about @22 a quart, so after the oil cost that means they are charging like $500 labor, well that's too fuc'n much, so thanks, I've seen several of these trans. service videos and they just drain once and refill, so thanks for going the extra mile to show us how easy it is...Javi G.
In my opinion, as long as you do a 5 qt drain and fill to freshen the fluid every 20,000 miles or so, that will be more than adequate to protect the CVT for the life of the vehicle. Of course there is nothing wrong with doing a full flush, but that's way too much work for me lol.
Good comment
Interesting, my '16 Crosstrek has 159,000 miles on it and I am thinking about changing the fluid in the CVT.
@@todd1hd If it's never been changed, you may not want to do a full flush. I've seen cases where a CVT with high mileage and original fluid started acting up after flushing it. Apparently, the debris in the old fluid can add a little friction during operation and when you remove that debris the CVT can start to slip. Given your mileage, I'd just do a 5qt drain and fill and see how that goes.
I did this method with a 2015 impreza i bought for my son at an auction. It worked great and really helped both my son and i learn together. Really appreciate the time you took to make the video.
man you were thorough as hell, good job, coming from a toyota technician
You are extremely precise and detailed.
The thoroughness of your job and presentation is outstanding.
Even the factory may not take as much care in assembling the car as you do in the maintenance!
Since the CVT uses friction to push the belt between squeezing pulleys the frictional coefficient of fluid is critical and as you know that can only be maintained through fluid renewal.
Thank you!
You stated the reason for changing the fluid very well.
One of the best instructional videos on RUclips and I’ve WATCHED A LOT of them.
Update: prior to doing the CVTF change, I had the opportunity to take a 280 mile round trip in the vehicle in about 85 degree weather. I took the OBDII reader and the app. The highest temperature recorded for the CVT was 230 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fast forward two weeks and CVTF replacement later the same trip with the same conditions is repeated.
The maximum temperature this time did not exceed 196 degrees Fahrenheit.
While we can debate back and forth that the fluid may or may not replacement even after my 97k miles, but this I know: the CVT is now operating at a temperature that is 30 or so degree lower with the new fluid.
That to me is justification enough to do the replacement.
Now if I can only figure out how to reset the CVT fluid deterioration rate to something like .8% (given that the purge never really cleans out the oil)....it is at the 7.59% from prior to change.....
watched a bunch of videos before doing this, and your method is for sure the best method to make sure your getting everything out before putting in the new fluid. I am surprised you didn't take off the pan and change out the filter.
Thank you so much for this wonderful, thorough, informative video!!! We were totally in a panic after accidentally removing the CVT plug not the oil plug during an oil change and this video allowed us to deal with the self-created emergency. THANK YOU!
That's no fun!! Hope it went well, and thank you! I really appreciate those that find my videos helpful! Thanks!
My son made the same mistake!
I am literally in the same situation right now. Got the transmission cover removed and need to get an 8mm allen to start this pump process. I'm still pretty stressed but grateful to see I'm not the only one who's made the oil plug/transmission plug mistake and that add fluid using this method will help me recover.
Thanks for sharing.
I would've started at the heat exchanger. Disconnect the return line, use an inline connector and attach it to a clear line and place that into the container holding your clean fluid, I'd prime that line and add a couple more quarts to avoid sucking air into the system. Now, the port in the heat exchanger that the return line was attached to, run another clear line to an empty 5 gal bucket and start the car, shifting through the gears. The transmission will suck in nice clean cool transmission fluid, go through the heat exchanger into the empty bucket. When you see clean fluid running into the waste bucket, shut it down and put the input line back on the heat exchanger. Then go through a final fill procedure like you did at the end.
Doing it this way will flush out the cvt, torque converter, and heat exchanger.
I used to do this all the time in "normal" transmissions.
I know a cvt is a different animal. But, it has a pump and a tongue converter and a heat exchanger. It'll work and you'll have 100% brand new fluid in it.
Your way of connecting fluid lines is what I do when flushing tranny fluids on my Toyotas - let the tranny suck new fluid and blow out old fluid from the radiator tranny cooler line until it is bright red. But this is only good if the CVT “In” port (return port) also ‘sucks’ otherwise his method will suffice.
@bygonebob His method works, no doubt. CVT's have a pump as well, it has too. I used the procedure I mentioned last month. I wish I would've made a video showing that procedure.
Thank you for this reply, I'm due for a CVT fluid change and this is exactly what I was looking for, I too previously did the method you described in my GMC 'normal' transmission and was thinking the same thing, "why not let the transmission 'suck' new cvt fluid since it should have a pump" I searched what seams all Subaru CVT fluid service videos and they all used other methods to pump fluids back into the cvt, but not the method you mentioned of letting the trans use the pumps suction to get the fluid back into the trans, which seems to me to be so much easier.
I accidently drained my cvt fluid so now I'm here
Same, and this seems like a nightmare
I always had the Stealer do this expensive service, being I knew there was a fluid temp for proper fill level. No more Stealer doing this service for me. Thank you for your time and quality in this vid. Same as your other vids too.
guaranteed, you went above and beyond what any Subaru dealer service center or other auto shop would ever do. Great work.
At 60000 I got a new CTV transmission because the dealer service center cracked the case following replacement of a line that blew out.
That's amazing. Super thankful for showing that the home depot sprayer worked without introducing air bubbles!!!!
Loosening your fill port first is very smart. If you do your drain first and then can't get the fill out, you'll be calling a tow truck.
i usually measure what comes out and put the same amount back in but i get the importance of checking leval when done👍great flushjob
Fantastic video -- "the rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say. Love the attention to detail, including bits that I have not seen anywhere else. THANK YOU !
Finally got around to doing this on my wife's '14 Forester Premium 2.5 cvt engine, today. Pretty level on jack stands. COLD engine. When I removed the fill plug, I got a surprise! Plenty of cvt fluid came gushing out (est. 1/2 to 1 qt). Wasn't expecting that. But, after everything was done, I had the same amount of old fluid from the pan as you did, about 5 1/2 qts. Closer to 5 1/4 qts, actually. I used my bbq meat thermometer to read the fluid temperature (103º F) instead of your phone app and device. Just pan drain and refill. I'll do this every other year or so. Thanks for your video!
Was your engine running when you got the suprise of fluid removing the fill plug?
Glad it went well for ya!
@@MTsubfly No, it was off.
@@carlrasmussen3267 gotcha, that would be why. I think i actually drained my pan first, then pulled the fill plug, but once I edited the footage it shows removing the fill plug first, but no fluid comes out. Thats a my bad for editing, not a big deal though.
@@MTsubfly What I don't get is if the engine is cold, the fluid hasn't expanded. Yet, when the new fluid has been pumped in, we heated it up to within specs and it should just trickle out of the fill hole at the end of the procedure. Weird. Was the factory cvt fluid overfilled? Or, does the fluid naturally expand over time, hot or cold? I don't know. Nonetheless, your video is the best I've seen on this. Thanks again, MT.
Thanks a lot. I just used your videos to do the 60k service on my 2016 Impreza. Did the front and rear diff fluid, CVT fluid, brake fluid, spark plugs, and air filter. 😅 Wow it was a lot of work but the local dealer wanted over $2k. I think it cost me about $250 in parts/fluids and took most of the day to complete. Worth it not to get raked over the coals. Next I need to service my 2017 Outback. Should be able to do it a bit quicker now that I know what I’m doing! 👍🏼 Only things I might have the dealer do for me around 130k miles is the fuel filter and coolant flush. Thanks again.
Great video with clear explanations. I own a Subaru Outback 2020 and will certainly change CVT fluid myself as recommended by you and Mr Subaru 1387, 3 years / 36,000 miles regardless of what my dealer tells me. I use Veepeak and Car Scanner to get CVT oil temp. Keep doing superb videos.
Wow! Excellent video. Best so far that I've seen for a newer model Forester. Thanks for your thoroughness. I'll be doing my 2014 Forester this summer.
Agreed.
Your recommendation to use HD hand garden sprayer pump is ingenious. Compared with the other automotive pumps that I price out, it is a steal! Since I heard dealer charge $250+ for a drain and fill. I will diy it for the first time on my two subies. Can’t thank you enough. I recommend water test the HD pump first to make sure you got a good one.
I like what you did. I am getting ready to do this on my Crosstrek. I have done this on other AT vehicles I have owned. What I did was remove the return line from the cooler and just "pumped" out fluid there. I pumped the old fluid out and you don't have to use any compressed air to blow anything out. Just another way to accomplish the same thing and you don't need compressed air.
curious what you used to pump the oil out ?thanks
@@tdizzle2179 I guess I wasn't clear on my comment. Sorry. I didn't use an actual pump. I disconnected the line from the cooler (heat exchanger) that returns transmission fluid back to the transmission. It is labeled in the video (4:33). I took it off at the transmission and not the cooler. Although, it really doesn't matter a whole lot and you could take it off at the cooler; however, this would make your hoses/connectors a little different. I connected a hose to extend the line using a double barbed fitting you can get at a hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot. (Sorry, I don't remember the size.) I put the hose into a container I could measure the amount. My wife got in the car and started it up. With the car running the transmission fluid does "pump" out of the transmission to the cooler. I would "pump" a quart out and then add a quart. I did this until the fluid looked clean/new. If you are using this method, it does take 2 people and make sure you have the person turn off the car a little before you reach the amount you want to pump out as it does flow a little while the car is shutting off. I have used this method on other vehicles to get the remaining used/old fluid out of the system. I hope this helps and clarifies.
Hey there. Just wanted to thank you for your videos on CVTF and Front Diff oil replacement . I did these on a 2015 Subaru Outback 2.5L, and let me tell everyone it’s exactly the same.
Even the Front Diff Fill Plug located on top of the front right drive shaft was over tightened and took a major push to break.
So thanks again, other than an oil spill (my fault) in the engine compartment, it went rather smoothly. The back and forth underneath to fill the CVTF was annoying but that is what is required.......
I used an OBD II reader and the free ActiveOBD app and it was a cinch.
Excellent work!
I'm about to have my CVT change. Where did u purchase ur cvt oil aside from d subaru dealership.
@@elizabethpaguio8175 I am sure you can get it anywhere. The prices were the same so I went to the dealer. Bought extra, just in case something went wrong, and returned the extra after I was done. But this was awhile ago. I don’t know what the pricing is today.
It was $17.34/qt at the dealership in TF Idaho today.
I have a 2015 Forester as well. Very helpful thank you for guiding thru the steps and get to know my vehicle a little more.
Thanks you! Glad I could be of help! 😄
Great video. Your explanation during the video was super helpful. My dealer just quoted me $295 to change and flush. I’m going to call him to verify they will flush for that price and have him explain the process to make sure he tells me the temperatures and shifting thru the gears.
Wow... great video, very informative. I'm the original.owner of my 2015 Legacy and I know nothing other than doing an oil change. Your videos are gonna save me some money (hopefully) I am at 110,00 miles and have not done anything to my car yet. I better get some tools and get to work. You mentioned Lithia Subaru in the description, good to know Oregonians (Milwaukie here) still help each other out. Again, great videos.
Do yourself a favor and sell it. My '13 legacy just ate the CVT at 131k. $7650+tax from the dealer to replace. First and last Subaru for me.
Excellent tutorial! Details and all. 🎉 Ill try it myself and cross my fingers I don't screw up.
Thank you for this vid it is very helpful. I had the same issue with my Honda Civic transmission. The dealership said that they should never be power flushed so they recommended draining, replacing, driving the vehicle through all the gears until it’s fully warmed up and then draining again replacing, driving through all the gears until thoroughly warmed up again and then draining and replacing and you would get over 90% of the old fluid
seems like a hot job and that you could get burned by the hot surfaces, WOW!!! crazy how hard this job is, I'm stunned.
@@dabneyoffermein595 Since heat rises and you’re laying under the vehicle to do the drain, it’s really not a hot job. You just wear thick rubber gloves and you’re good to go.
Excellent video with nice and clear instructions. I own an Outback 2020 and it uses CVTF-III oil and Subaru doesn’t sell this oil in quart or gallon. One way of stopping DIY and force you to have it done at dealer...$$$$$.
don't do it , type II should be fine. It's a hustle is all, just a hustle. here's the link to VERY affordable exact type II replacement fluid www.rallysportdirect.com/part/transmission-fluid/3074-300-eneos-cvt-fluid-model-s-1qt?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9O6HBhCrARIsADx5qCRjUSr0kPm3ttpSO9OKCuhhpRy0T9Rq6Nj0gdYkqsN2OtMJZK79BZ4aAtquEALw_wcB
Great lighting, camera angles and very informative. Thank you.
2017 Outback transmission #TR580SHACA. Thank you for the great instruction in this video. It was all very helpful (except for the background music). My transmission has the side rear port assembled with a metal tube and I did not want to disturb it, so I did not flush the lines but simply jumped to flushing the transmission with the vinyl tubing step. I flushed 3 times and had the shift lever moved during the 2nd and 3rd flushes. My BAFX OBD2 and ActiveOBD app worked great and that was the most excellent direction you provided since not many units or apps provide trans. fluid temp info., certainly not the FIXD scanner.
I did not remove the pan but likely will next time just to check for metal dust. The filter will likely never be changed since it is only a metal screen and not a fine mesh.
PARTS:
Fluid: Subaru CVTF-2 (green)
drain plug crush washers 803916010 (same as oil drain plug) flat portion faces bolt head
fill port gasket/seal 803918060
Tips:
I applied very wide strong tape below the fill port, long enough to go past the pan to guide the flow and prevent a mess.
I covered the catalytic converter and the rubber axle boot below the side port heavily to avoid dripping on them.
A Sharpie body will fit into the trans. hose to prevent dripping after it had emptied itself. Push the Sharpie in only 1/2".
A few V-8 juice bottles worked great for catching the flushed fluid.
I used my two-post lift :)
I have thought about the tape drip guide too but you beat me to it. That 2-post lift tip is very expensive though.
DUDE... THANK YOU! Now I can confidently flush the fluid from my Forester XT CVT
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You do an outstanding job on all of your videos. I think that it's interesting that your Suburu dealer took the easy way out. Even more reason to do it yourself, using your method. Thanks again! George in FL.
Thank you sir!
What a pain, huh?! But love that you take such good care of your Subaru! 😎 #SubaruAmbassador
Outstanding video! Best I've seen on this subject.
Thank you!
Thank you for all the information I learned a lot , it makes you appreciative of what it takes to do it right .
I did a Lexus Transmission. non CVT. Didn't have special tools. I drained all I could and put back exactly the same amount. No issues.
Thank you for this! Just swapped my brothers crosstrek transmission and used this to flush all the lines.
Thanks for highlighting severe conditions.
Severe conditions only apply to the transmission if there is repeated trailer towing.
This and another video helped me install an oil cooler.
Great video!
Great Video. Super helpful and precise. You helped me changed my CVT fluid. It would be helpful for another viewer to explain that the crush washer is against the pan. I really appreciate the time you took to make this video! PS. Enjoy the coffee!!!!
Thank you for the kind feedback, and coffee! It will be a treat! Thank you much!
One of the best video & instructions . Thank you
Amazing job. Makes it look easy. Greetings from Jamaica 🇯🇲. I have a Subaru Impreza g4 2017 limited edition (JAPANESE model) but I think it's the same procedure. Definitely gonna subscribe to this channel.
Big up I got a g4 2.0L limited edition too
Awesome video Sir! (Owner of a 2015 Subaru forester xt!)
Well done. I like how you used the garden sprayer. I have not seen that before.
Thanks!
I have a general purpose hand pump that works great and fills it very fast that I used
Great video with an AMAZING breakdown of the process involved, THANK YOU! I'll let you know how it goes!
The partial (approx 6 Qt) CVT transmission drain & fill at the dealership in Louisville, KY costs $250.00 while the radiator drain & fill costs $265.00
Excellent video. Detailed and specific, which makes for great content. Thank you!
Nice to see you repressing Oregon. I appreciate the details you provide. Now I need to change my Impreza CVT fluid. Great video
Representing
Great video man. Really in detail but simply and straight forward. I have a 2013 Crosstrek and I'm sure it's a very similar process. I have been researching and watching videos and you're the only 1 that took off the hoses and blew out all the old fluid in the lines. I didn't see anybody else flushing it like you did either. You used 13 quarts but said next time you'll only do 2 flushes so how many quarts do you estimate that would be? Thanks again for this video. I found it to be the best one I've come across.
I am looking video clip for crosstrek 2016 fluid change too,
This was a great informative video, thank you for taking the time to detail so much.
Great video!! I did all but the coolant pump which I'll do on my next fluid swap. Thanks!
Great video! Even Identifix doesn't explain the process Thanks
The most important point with the transmission fluid change, is not waiting longer than 1000 miles before changing it. Sending a portion of this fluid for a metal analysis is also wise. Also a secondary analysis after a multiple thousands of miles will give you a sense of security.
Thank you for your patience in explaining everything in such detail.
Idemitsu CVTF Type SB2 is a direct replacement for Subaru CVTF II fluid. Idemitsu manufactures Subaru's fluid and it's about 30-40% cheaper than buying from Subaru. I did a 10 quart flush for $120
There are lots of notes here, difficult to sort through them. Anyway you can add a note above for XT owners? XT owners fill plug is at the back side facing the rear of the car. Fill plug on XT is a 10mm hex. Fill plug takes the large gasket. Otherwise this was a super helpful video TY One other thing, If you own a FIXT port reader, you are good to go!!! ActiveOBD iOS bluetooths to the FIXT port reader and gives you the CTV temp for free. I will be returning my OBDII reader back to Amamzon, as it did not WiFi properly to the app. Glad I tried my FIXT port reader, to use with ActiveOBD. Cheers!
Wow, a nice , thorough well thought out job! 👍🏻
Very informative step by step DIY. Thanks!
the best.subaru forum reccomendedi watch this before i do it saturday..the best.ill have no problem now..thankyou ...gonna do exactly the same way...
You’re a fucking legend for this. My transmission fluid has just started looking a tad gross, more or less in the first stages. This is mighty helpful, thank you xx
This is one way to do it. I prefer to drain the pan and then refill it. Then blow out the lines like you did. Then you can also take a 2 longer piece of the clear tube you put one in a large enough container to hold the amount of fluid you are taking out. This will be on the pressure side. I prefer a 5 gallon bucket and then zip tie the line so it does not come out of the bucket. Then I take a second clean bucket and fill it with enough clean oil to meet the capacity of the transmission plus at least a couple of more quarts. Take the second clear tubing and run it from the transmission suction side and down into the bottom of the clean new oil in the 5 gallon bucket and zip tie so it does not come out. Usually best to have an assistant help you if possible. Start the car and run at idle. The dirty oil will start to flow out and the new oil will be sucked in. You can also shift through the gears to get even more old oil out. Do this until you see the change in oil color like you did and then stop car and reconnect hoses and be sure to warm up and adjust oil level. Works on almost all cars.
Great video! This was the best one I found while searching. Did my 2017 Outback 2.5i today, just did a drain and fill for the first time at 110,000km. I actually ended up using Eneos CVT Model S which is specific to Subaru transmissions that require CVTF II. Stuff is even green like the OEM Subaru CVTF II.
Awesome bro! Cheers!
@@MTsubfly how many quarts of Enoes should I buy? instead of the method you used, can i do it without the full flush and just do this procedure like twice or three times in a 6 month period? If I just do the 5 quart swap out, do i still have to do the 100 degree thing and have the car running through all the gears? just seems scary to have it running and up on jack-stands and all of that. what about the cost of the dealership doing it, how much do they charge? I'm in Indiana, USA
@@dabneyoffermein595 after doing the flush myself, I would say just start with draining and refilling the pan. (6qts ish) and yes you need to set the level at specified temperature. It's really not hard, and if you have quality Jack's appropriately rated you will be fine. Note, it is way easier as shown in the video to start With a cold transmission (below 90 degrees f).
Drain the pan, full the pan, start car and refill the pan, insert plug by hand. Now wait for the temp to raise into the appropriate temp range, remove the plug and let the excess run out. So easy. (This is a generalized explanation)
@@MTsubfly excellent, thanks!! that makes me feel much better about it. i have jack stands and I usually back them up with a floor jack in case they give way. they are not the best and not the worst but are old.. perhaps i could even put the car on ramps because since I'm not doing a full flush, i suppose it wouldn't hurt to have it angled and then drain and fill ? temp check, rinse , repeat. Darn, i have to find that cheap ODB II i bought on the internet, thing works like a charm with an android app. Time to dig it up.
Woah thats is a tad complex. Well done dude I could never attempt that. It will be off to Subaru workshop. Impressive 👍
This is a great video, I really like the part where you use the spray bottle. I have a small electric pump that I use but the spray bottle is a good idea.
Awesome video!! I am about to perform this service along with front and rear diff change on my 2017 Outback 2.5i Limited. Thanks a ton for all of this info!!
Thanks! You may have already, but check my videos on the front/rear diffs. Process should be similar. Good luck!
@@MTsubfly I actually just watched that vid too! Quick question, what are your thoughts on replacing the strainer inside the transmission pan? I only have 60,000 miles on my '17 Outback, so I probably wouldn't even consider it until well over 100,000 miles. Just was curious if that's something that needs to be replaced at some point. Of course, there isn't a service interval for this. All I can find is that it doesn't need to be replaced unless it is damaged. Thanks for the help!
@@jnepute good question. My opinion is for the average DIYer it risks contaminating the internals, and really isn't needed. Changing the fluid removes the bulk of the finest debris, and refreshes the properties of the wearing fluid. I bet that screen is for larger debris (20 micron maybe?) There is an actual filter in the transmission but requires splitting the case to change (huge job). If you do it, make sure to replace the gaskets, its not going to hurt doing it, just not likely needed. Usually anything with an oil pump has a pick-up screen to protect the pump, maybe thats its purpose? Hope this helps, just my thoughts...
@@MTsubfly Appreciate the response! I agree. Thanks again!
Fabulous work my friend, excellent video work and communication
skills
Dear friend, I just did a total change of the cvt fluid using dialysis and with an electric pump (15,85 quarts / 15 liters).
If you knew the amount of dirt and ferrous particles that accumulate on the tray and on the magnet with only 35,000 km you would probably not be so thorough in cleaning the threaded plugs ;)
Good job man, super pro (compared to the dealer lol)
Great job on this video! Super helpful
Fantastic job, very much appreciated
Awesome. saving 6k on new transmission... i am doing it for my Outback 2014 100k miles.
i have 135K , should i do it? (2016 - 4 cyl. outback)
Despite Subaru and others saying 'lifetime' means forever not just useful life and the issues with transmissions being sensitive to debris disturbance and seals swelling and such, many that choose to drain & fill do so not just to extend the life of the vehicle but don't ever to flushes. The regular addition of partial capacity is less dramatic, and easier, and many say less risky. Again considering Subaru says don't ever change it. Applaud the thoroughness, but long term opinions evolve over time as well.
Thanks for sharing this video, interesting information.
Excellent video. Thanks!
just to confirm 2014 subaru forrester premium 2.5L model also use cvtf ii fluid? i accidentally drained the transmission fluid, your video is such a great help, thank you very much!
Garden sprayer is genius!
Thanks, could not have been better explained. Ditto to Randy Fitz below. Keep em comming.
I'm not an expert but with the fill I think you are going way overboard. Good job with the flush and video.
Looks sort of like Mt. Mcloughlin in the background...I may be wrong but excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment! That would be Black Butte of Sisters, Oregon. 🙂Thanks for watching!
Bend...got it. Of course I appreciate your thoroughness@@MTsubfly
Great Video - Thank you! I have watched many other videos on this subject and yours is by far the best. One thing I'm wondering is why some are saying there needs to be a relearn for the transmission after flushing/refilling. Is that really needed? You did not mention it and I suspect you did not perform the relearn.
G
ood video.... concise.. good camera work. Bravo!
We own a 19 Outback 2.5, CVT
11 Rav 4WD Limited with a 3.5 V6, 5 spd auto transmission,
11 Ford Ranger XLT super cab 4X4, 4.0 V6, 5spd auto transmission.
I have the oil changed every 4K miles with Mobile 1 full synthetic.
Every 30K miles I have the front and rear differential, transfer case, transmission flush.
These are a Must to keep your vehicles in top condition.
Also change all your belts and hose’s and have your radiator flushed every 5-10 years depending on how many miles you drive.
Nice! Loved the samples at the end 👍
amazing video. i used your steps exactly.
Thanks Rick!
Much appreciated. Out Suby is still doing great! Hope the same for you
@@MTsubfly so far no explosions LOL
Top video indeed...Thanks a million for such a good one.
Brilliant videos. Congratulations
Great Video. Going to save an watch and take notes again before starting my own job. That Subaru fluid is very prices and vs the price of my used forester, I think I will just use the Canadian Tire brand fluid which is to spec and manufactured by Shell (I think... one of the big oil companies anyways).
Thanks agin for posting.
Cheers from Alberta Canada
I read somewhere on the internet a guy who used the Valvoline brand, it was good for 15k miles then ran rough, but when he went back to subaru fluid, he claimed no issues after 30k miles. Personally I would stay Subaru fluid, but if you pioneer the use of a different fluid, come back and let us know how you like it! Cheers!
How has your experience been with the non-OEM brand CVTF?
Good video!! I have a 2019 forester and I love it. the only thing concerns me is the CVT
me too, i have a 2017 one, i have around 50000 miles now, hoping it will last forever, lol
@@carsonkuang5001 as long as you keep up on maintenace like cvt fluid. 15 impreza at 212k miles right now.
Awesome! Thank you for sharing your video.👍
My Gal got quoted $1400 for a 60K Maintenance in Ukiah, CA. Looking at Maintenance List; looks like this Tranny and Differential(s), and Engine oil change, and Spark Plugs are the biggest part (on top of inspections ( including belt tensions) ... Nice to see DIYer support for a complete transmission change. Thanks. Might go for saving my Gal a grand from that Deal Cost 🏊🚣🏄🌠
Awesome! Informative and great detail!
Amazing. Just well done. Please indulge me by helping me understand something. A simple drain and fill takes let’s say 5 quarts- measured exactly by draining and measuring the fluid. Then you pour in the 5 replacement quarts and finger tighten the fill plug.
If then I measure exactly what is removed by running the engine and using the oil cooler outlet method you showed, and do it say twice and each time add exactly what was removed would it be necessary then to go through the temperature check method to ensure proper fluid final quantity?
Once again: top notch work.
Thanks a bunch. Yes you should set the fluid level using the transmissions read-out temp. Consider if your method went well, has there ever been a leak, one that is hidden? Are you the original owner? Has anyone else ever worked on the CVT? Even just a tech that pulled the plug to "inspect" the fluid and level? Was the fluid level set correctly at the factory? All the variable's and margins of error could leave you with incorrect fluid level and damage to the CVT. Short answer: Use the temp method. Good luck!
MT Thank you. Let’s assume that’s it’s the first time and when the filler plug is opened there is a slight drainage implying that the level is good. I was just thinking out loud as to why fresh oil will flow out at the last stage and the filler plug is to be tightened to torque with a warm engine and a slight drip. Confuses me arithmetically speaking.... given you can pour in exactly what you drained😀 who knows? Maybe a chemical engineer....
@@Yankee7000 you still wanna use the temp method. If you pull your fill plug without the car running, you will have a bunch of fluid all over you. Level must be set at temp, car running. This probably has to do with each cvt needing slightly different amounts of fluid, based on how much each system consumes at idle ( torque converters, cooler & lines etc.) They probably have a good reason for this vs a more common method like a manual trans.
Very good video, but just want to state that my 2014 Forester I bought used with about 69,000 miles the transmission failed. I took it back to the dealer I bought it from because it had what is called the Forever Warranty provided for free from the dealer. The warranty company installs used replacement parts so they installed a trans with about 72,000 miles. About 18 months later the trans failed again so now they installed another used trans with 88,000 miles, both are from LKQ. But the real problem is the Forester CVT that Subaru installs just flat out is bad. You can see on line the many transmission failures that these Foresters have. Subaru even had to extend their transmission warranty to 100,000 miles due to how bad they are designed. If someone out there has had the same transmission failures on similar year Foresters please comment, because I don't think it's just changing of the fluid that makes these Forester transmissions fail.
Thanks so much.