Keith, Thanks again. Another excellent video. I had followed your perfect instructions for replacing the air intake manifold then watch these and followed their instructions as well. No one makes videos with as much attention to detail as you do.
My goodness you're a genius man. I just got my intake manifold swapped for a new one, and I go and do this test and there is oil in the hose! Going to get it changed asap to avoid damaging the new intake. Thank you again so much for this valuable information!!!
Just did this on my 08 E350, thank you for the how-to! You're the only person I've found that posted the whole process, not just the cover. Keep up the great videos!
Easy as pie on a 2011, w212 e350. Four e10 (or 8mm box end) gets the top piece off. One reverse threaded bolt using 1/4” deep well socket gets the oil catch can off. Mine was not very tight. Thanks Keith!! No more oil on the exhaust.
Thank You for showing the replacement of the spinner. So many videos and most don't even mention it. Then one did mention it having left handed thread. Now I understand the spinner sits against the cover (opposed to fitting inside).
3:15 that quater inch six pointed socket it also know as Female E-TORX 8 or inverse torx 8. that is what we name that socket here in Europe. Thank you for this video, i was able to finisch this repair today :)
Keith, I just replaced the oil drip pan and cover on my 2011 S212 E350 as it was approaching 100k miles and wanted to change it before it failed. Thanks for your informative video which made changing it a breeze.
Excellent vid! I bought a 2012 c300 and after a trip to canada I noticed some oil leaking. Found your video, took it to my bro's garage and confirmed this was the problem. Thanks again for suck a great video and saving me from having to take it to the dealership! Mvto Mvto
I changed the oil drip pan and breather port on my 2010 ML350 today. It wasn’t that bad. It’s just a little tight back there. so one thing I noticed in the video is that you said to take the bolts off by turning it clockwise. I realized that you would be turning clockwise if you were standing behind the engine. Since you were standing in the front of the engine, it would be counterclockwise to take the bolt off. Meaning turn the socket to the left to take it off and to the right to tighten it back up.
I just realize that the part you are holding is really suppose to save and prevent oil from going into the MAF and into the intake manifold. The part suppose to drip out and spinning out any oil collected. However, that is not enough. Have you install a catch can? I been seeing this quiet a lot and thought this might be a perfect application for this issue. Just a thought, what is the construction of the oil drip pan. How does it looks like from the inside?
BTW a 12 point 8mm opened end ratchet wrench worked well to remove drip pan/separator cover. Thanks for this video. My 2012 GLK 350 oil drip pan did not have a groove only 54k miles.
This is a useful video. However, when I followed this video, the REVERSE thread screw present in this video was NOT present in a 2014 GLK350. Ask me how I know. I snapped it off turning the oil drip plan screw clockwise, thinking I was loosening it. Obviously, you think it was stuck and so more torque to remove resulted in breaking the bolt. After several hours, I was able to remove the broken bolt with a flexible extension attached to a drill and a right angle attachment with a broken bolt extractor to remove it. What a pain!
The PCV valve and its diaphragm is the culprit, not the internal part in metal rubbing against the soft plastic diaphragm. Replacing the PCV valve it enough. But thank you for the reminder of reverse thread.
Technically, I think the design for that oil separator suppose to collect and get any oil collected then spin out. That is why you will see holes on the outside. However, the oil fumes still continue out to the tube and into the MAF / intake. I was thinking, an oil catch can may help as a secondary prevention on oil getting into the MAF and the air intake manifold. The pcv cover is the issue where oil leaks and as usual the o ring on the cover gets bad over time. But this does not stop oil getting into the MAF and air intake that cause all that oil that the drum intake manifold is failing. I believe a catch can is the result. As seen with other car's application for this same reason of oil in the intake, this might be a solution. Not a permanent solution, as oil fumes still get suck into the air intake, but at least another line of defense is in place.
The separator gets dirty. Therfore, less effective. This becomes more true with age of engine as well as poor oil change practices (which include oil type, change intervals, demands put on engine, etc). Adding a catch can on a used car would be a good belt and suspenders approach to reducing intake manifold gunk buildup
I have a 08 e320cdi with the om642 engine. I have recently changed the rebreather. The one I got is an updated version, where the breather and the drip pan come all in one. Mercedes thinking behind that must be that they reckon that the breather and drip pan wear out at the same time. The nice thing about this is, when I fitted the the breather, I had fitted the new drip pan too.
I was just trying to remove that 1/4" bolt and I remembered you mentioned it was clockwise to remove it. So I had to search for this video again to verify. Thank you! Someone put torques bit on the cover, instead of the ones you have. Makes it really difficult.
@@Sdenney6970 yes, since that reply, I have noticed this and bought a whole set of torx sockets. I also found that ford uses a German engine that also uses a lot of torx bolts, but not all of them. 4.0 SOHC V6. That engine is a nightmare to change a timing chain. LOL
thank you so much,,, do we really need to replace the oil drip pan since i don't see any seals on it, i do see the seal on the vent cap though, thank you
Amazing video. Thank you Sooo much. I had to replace my intake manifold last year (2006 ML350) and replaced ventilation valve last summer. After watching this video, I'm going to replace ventilation valve again as well as the drip pan. Thanks again!!!
What is the inner bolt size of the oil separator , I’m using deep well 8mm and it catches but doesn’t turn do to it having star points on it aswell . Would a ser of deep well e torx E4-E8 would they work ? But what is a generic version so I wouldn’t have to wait for shipping please
Great video as I noticed oil somewhere and changed the separator but in oil pan and just changed it this evening now I’m mad cause i have to go back and replace oil as I noticed it dripping down to catalytic converter. I need part ASAP and replace
Yes, that is a normal situation. You would smell it in your cabin as the oil fume it gets burned travels in. Yes, it so happens that is were the air for the cabin is at (air filter). No such a smart design from mercedes.
Hi Keith, did a new reverse thread Bolt come with the oil separator? I just bought a new one "Mercedes" and no new Bolt in the Box. Thank you for all your great Videos! Keep them coming! Wish you were near me to help record my GL 450 repairs. Their have been Plenty. Long Island NY Thanks again.
Hi Keith Iam replacing the intake so off course I decided to replace the oil drip pan and cover. S!@# i broke the bolt that is suppose to go clockwise. Any ideas u might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
@@iRepairAutos just subscribed and liked. First time ever did that. May I suggest maybe saying clockwise/towards the passanger for us air heads. Thanks for your videos.
A couple of questions. 1) At the 4:39 minute mark, there is a grey harness to the right of the screen sitting on the transmission bell housing. What is that ? Mine is tightly against the PCV cap, turns and runs along the sides of cyl 1-4. 2) The drip pan seems to have been redesigned slightly (oil exit holes). Is there a reason for this redesign ? I have a 2010 E550.
Keith - thanks for the video. Very helpful. Had some leakage bottom of rebreather cover so decided to replace it and the centrifuge. No issues taking everything apart but the new centrifuge would not seat onto the camshaft no matter how much I fiddled with it. I ended up putting the old centrifuge back on (it seats easily) and buttoning everything back up. Any trick to get the new centrifuge to properly seat on the camshaft?
So I finally got another rebreather cover and tried this again. This time, the original centrifuge I purchased 2 years ago fit correctly and the new rebreather cover fit nicely as well. I was very surprised to find the rebreather cover I replace 2 years ago was full of oil and the gasket was very much enlarged. Hoping that the new centrifuge I put in today will help to keep the oil pass-thru down to a minimum this time.
I see what you did.... you need to heat up the center of the cover where the cylinder is going to be hitting with a hair dryer. That way when you put the cover back on it should fit more snug... (Just a little Tip that might Help)
@@yung.holdin9493 Never would have thought of that. As my comment from three years ago, last year I tried to put this on again and was successful after lots more difficulty. Wish I had seen your comment earlier!!
Thanks for the great videos ! Question, Other then oil in the breather hose, are there any signs or systems or performance issues that would tell us these parts have failed?
Your oil consumption will go up; You will see add/check oil at next filler station more often than usual. As the part wears out more you will be greeted with the add/check oil even more often; Your air intake manifold at this time has probably failed or will fail soon.
iRepair Autos is there a mileage recommendation do you think the pan needs to be changed ? I changed the cover last year (I didn’t have any leaks but I just wanted to change as a maintenance item) but had a hard time getting the pan out (tight space and not small enough tool to fit in back there). So I just returned the pan. I only have 48,000 miles on my 2010 e350 sedan.
hey man thanks for the vids they are definitely helping. That centrifuge that you show at the 4:06 mark is any part of it supposed to turn with the engine off or does it spin when the engine is on? I ask because supposedly a mechanic replaced this for me in 2018 but my hose and cover have oil in it, the gasket in the middle is not snug around the centrifuge which seems like they should be for something done in 2018, only 20,000 miles have been added since. Wouldn't a tech change both cover and centrifuge together vs just the problem part? or can they tell and only change whats needed at the time? thanks if you an answer and be well just the same if you cannot. Either way my manifold is currently on the floor of my garage covered in oil inside and out. The air flap actuator lever in the front broke and the other two are gummy to say the least. Still wagering on whether I should replace and recon the plastic bits on the front of the manifold or just get a new manifold.
I just had this repair done by an authorized mercedes repair shop (2008 ml350) but now it's burning oil . I don't know if one thing has anything to do with the other but seems odd that all of a sudden I'm seeing smoke out the exhaust and I'm topping oil every couple of weeks. It does have over 100,000 miles on engine.
Man, I Wish it is this easy on the Newer M276 Engine. It is Unbelievable The location and procedure they Placed/set to replace these 2 Parts on the M276 engines..
@@iRepairAutos It's a problem even on the W212 and in a similar location. Problem is, on the M276, the High pressure fuel pump run at the back of the intake camshaft puts it in the way of the PCV Cover and prevents access to one of the bolts for the cover.
I found oil in the same hose as you did in your video. Do you think I should just do cover and drip pan or the kit that includes all these parts? crankcase oil separator cover, expansion plugs crankcase breather hose, oil separator, crankcase breather oil separator, and full load breather hose.
Do you have a video that shows how to replace the crankcase breather oil separator, I keep looking around and haven't found one yet. I really appreciate your help.
Also, Apparently, I'm looking online and it says it's the same part for the Oil Drip Pan for 2006-2016/2017 Models.. ??? However, yours has a different part number..??? Anyhow, this and one other YT Vid is the Only video/Picture that I could find Online regarding this Oil Drip Pan (Or Centrifuge - I believe)- As it's called on the newer engine... But, I'm looking at this part and I can't figure out how it works and you didn't say either. Looks like it bolts onto the back of the Camshaft. So does that mean the Oil Drip Pan Spins/Rotates along with Camshaft while in Operation??? 🤔🤔🤔 Hope you can give some insights - I'm trying to determine if Mine needs to be replaced at Only 50K Miles. Engine Shakes while Idling I noticed that there is a restriction in the Breather/PCV hose/Line and I don't think it should be, I've ordered the Breather Cover But I'm trying to determine if I'll also need the Centrifuge/Oil Drip Pan... Car is a 2014 Mercedes C350.
Normally the MAF does not get affected, but if you follow the hose, it goes down the plastic elbow where the maf gets install on top. You will find oil fume residues on this elbow part. Mind as well clean the MAF if you find oil fumes residues. Also since you are at it you will find your throttle body (butterfly) is cover with oil fumes residues. So clean that. Now if you find an are cleaning this, get ready for this.... Yes.. Your intake manifold may be gummed up and has oil fumes resides. This is like you standing at ridge and staring out and up looking at a big mountain. Yup, welcome to our world of your next project. Replacing the intake manifold. You might even find oil slick / deposit at the front end of the intake manifold, where its a black pump actuator with plastic rods and about the plastic triangle that get broken. Yup.. Now looking back, yes, clean up all those fumes and deposit does help preventing the bigger problem or slows it down.
Hey is the centrifuge piece that tightens down left hand thread. Is it suppose to be just right enough to spin it freely or should it not have any movement to it???? Please help, any advice would be appreciated.
Great video, as usual. After this is done, is there any way to do at least some cleanup of the oil/carbon buildup in the intake manifold and intake valves without having to remove the intake manifold? I see videos of people dropping water through carburetors on warm engines to cleanup carbon in the intake; is there a comparable method for cars with fuel injection and MAF sensors that is safe and effective?Thank you again for a great job.
Thanks Maxwell. There is no safe product in my opinion that will properly clean the plastic parts internal to the Air Intake Manifold without going into the piston ports and ending up internal to your bearings and engine oil which will cause failure. The reason why the manifold is hard to clean is because the oil on the plastic is micronized (more like smudge) and sits densely on these parts. check the cleaning video here: ruclips.net/video/GsWqdiBHG18/видео.html
What are the signs in your car's operation that this needs to be done. Can this be the problem if I'm getting white smoke on the start up in the morning or when my car is cool?
The sign are when you start smelling burnt oil in your cabin. The oil leaks at the pvc as it is overflowed due to failure of the elastic ring it attaches on to the oil separator pan. Also the oil separator pan is probably flooded and oil is getting pushed into the pvc cover as well. This then start to leak out between the bottom cover and it drips down to the exhaust pipe and gets burned off. It will get worst and worst until you get fogged up with oil fume inside your car cabin. This is also another indication where your intake manifold will start getting clogged and soon you will have 2 codes saying the intake manifold/swirl flaps had failed. This is due to the all the fumes from these two parts had failed and letting fumes travel all the way down depositing into the intake manifold.
Yes. Get a second person to sit in the car and hold the hood release on the open position. While you tap gently to aggressively on the stuck side. You may have to push down and up on the hood while doing this. You have a stuck side. Don't dent the hood in the process.
@@iRepairAutos thank you for the help I just did what you said about 3 hours ago and nothing yet, see what exactly happened is that my hood got stuck in the mechanic store when I was getting a oil change when he finished and I was ready to go I asked him if he can change the air filter also he said yes so I went to open the hood it didn't open got stuck passenger side so he tried the mechanic for a while then it was time to close the shop so he told me to go back Tuesday August 4 that's what really happened
Does it feel like the cable for the good release is broken? Your mechanic may have to go in and up from underneath and spray lubricants on the latch to loosen it up and may even have to disengage it from underneath. It is a real pain.
Got a 2008 CLS 550 need to change crankcase valve this video helped a lot didn’t even know about the oil drip pan or how important it is to change the dealer will never tell you that thanks man
I don't think this is a maintenance part they will look into until you complain about oil fumes in your cabin (which is the end result) or when you find oil deposits in your intake manifold (or it had failed). But then again, even if you replace your intake manifold (as this is link how or why it fails), they may not look at these 2 parts to be replace if it wasn't leaking. However, if you trace the rubber tube, your down elbow (maf), throttle body, intake manifold, the pump actuators in from of the intake manifold - you will find oil stains and gummy substance in the area. You might think where is it leaking oil.. It's not leaking oil, it's just deposits over time it collected. Also, I believes the amount of deposit depends how hard the car is driven as.
Nope.. Not that I know of. If you have black puff, might be some where in your exhaust system is having a problem or worst, a bad gasket on the exhaust side of the engine.
Hi there! My C280 has the OIL DIPSTICK TUBE omitted! Can I still use and extractor when I change the oil?? I've searched high and low to figure this out!
This has nothing to do with the oil dipstick tube. Yes, mercedes had removed the dipstick tube and you will see a red cover over it. However, some people use that tube to extract oil (for oil changes, with an oil pump extractor). You can always do the other way, remove the plastic cover panels underneath the car and remove the bolt to change oil.
@@kito1san the whole reason for my buying and using the extractor on our 4 cars is to avoid going under the car. But thanks for the information regarding the dip stick
I changed mine both the pcv and the oil separator, the car still smoking on cold start, by high revvs and hard acceleration.. ( E63 "12 M157). Do you think it might be a failed valve stem seal? Or I didn't change the pcv and the oil separator correctly.
Same happened to mine. I have done an engine rebuild and after like 6 month, the smoke started againz especially on my second oil change. Its crazy. Pls were you able to sort it out? I would appreciate any input or insight.
@@adeyinkaadebayo4192 yes, actually the valve stem seals was hard so I changed it, valve guides were loose too so also changed.. The block sleeve was bad ib cylinder no.1. So I changed the sleeve and the piston rings of all pistons. Plus turbo service.. Now it runs perfectly.
So, if I got this right this "rebreather" must try to take out the oil from the Crankcase air (like a PCV system). If this rebreather etc is replaced is there really a need for an oil catch can? Is this the m112 engine or the later ?is it m272? Cheers
Hey Keith..love your videos they’re amazing and have helped immensely pls keep them going! I have a CLK 280 W209 2007. Had the oil drip prob onto cat and had leaky cam plug cap and PCV cover. Two questions; my mechanic took off the the PCV cover and the gasket was worn causing the leak, he said don’t change the oil drip pan no need and would also mess with timing. Also the three cam plug plastic caps I changed the two small ones (one was leaking). Cannot for the life of me find the large plug cap, is this missing on some models depending on year? In your video it’s in the drivers side next to the smaller one but cannot find it on either rear side of the engine. Many thanks 🙏🏼
that PCV cover needs to be changed as the diaphragm wears out and allows blow by. It will not affect timing in any way shape or form. Your car may not have that large cam port.
In the comments, someone asked which specific models/engines this is a potential issue. Keith answered with an extensive list. Definitely check that to start. Believe this is on all m272 (v6) & m273 (v8) equipped vehicles
No. The oil catch can is NOT necessary. Make sure you change the cover to the drip pan as well. The diaphragm on the cover wears out and oil can slip by.
150K miles; W164 Engine was in the video: Mercedes Benz C230 Sport V6 2.5L 272.920 Mercedes Benz C280 4Matic V6 3.0L 272.941 Mercedes Benz C280 Luxury V6 3.0L 272.940 Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic Luxury V6 3.0L 272.948 Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic Sport V6 3.0L 272.948 Mercedes Benz C300 Luxury V6 3.0L 272.947 Mercedes Benz C300 Luxury V6 3.0L 272.948 Mercedes Benz C300 Sport V6 3.0L 272.947 Mercedes Benz C300 Sport V6 3.0L 272.948 Mercedes Benz C350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.970 Mercedes Benz C350 Luxury V6 3.5L 272.960 Mercedes Benz C350 Sport V6 3.5L 272.960 Mercedes Benz C350 Sport V6 3.5L 272.961 Mercedes Benz CL550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.968 Mercedes Benz CL550 Base V8 5.5L 273.961 Mercedes Benz CLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.960 Mercedes Benz CLK550 Base V8 5.5L 273.967 Mercedes Benz CLS550 Base V8 5.5L 273.960 Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic V6 3.5L Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.972 Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.977 Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L 272.964 Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L 272.980 Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L 272.988 Mercedes Benz E550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.962 Mercedes Benz E550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.970 Mercedes Benz E550 Base V8 5.5L 273.960 Mercedes Benz E550 Base V8 5.5L 273.966 Mercedes Benz E550 Base V8 5.5L 273.971 Mercedes Benz G550 Base V8 5.5L 273.963 Mercedes Benz GL450 Base V8 4.6L 273.923 Mercedes Benz GL550 Base V8 5.5L 273.963 Mercedes Benz GLK350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.971 Mercedes Benz GLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.991 Mercedes Benz ML350 Base V6 3.5L Mercedes Benz ML350 Base V6 3.5L 272.967 Mercedes Benz ML550 Base V8 5.5L 273.963 Mercedes Benz R350 4Matic V6 3.5L Mercedes Benz R350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.967 Mercedes Benz R350 Base V6 3.5L 272.967 Mercedes Benz S400 Hybrid V6 3.5L 272.974 Mercedes Benz S550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.968 Mercedes Benz S550 Base V8 5.5L 273.961 Mercedes Benz SL550 Base V8 5.5L 273.965 Mercedes Benz SLK280 Base V6 3.0L 272.942 Mercedes Benz SLK300 Base V6 3.0L 272.942 Mercedes Benz SLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.963 Mercedes Benz SLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.969
@@iRepairAutos this engineered failure was put to good use by Benz on so many different engines. This "centrifugal separator" may still be used in 2020 production 😰
hi, how does work this oil drip pan? i want to know, is there some holes inside that metallic cyllinder except bolt?last year i've changed the pcv valve only, yesterday i have checked and there is any oil. So i m wondering, maybe some mess filled that hole inside that metallic cylinder and no ventilation is happening any more.
Also, I changed the one on my 2010 e350. What a pain in the neck as there is no room back there for any kind of ratchet. That bolt on the bottom left is a killer, so close to the firewall. And of course I ended up dropping one of the sockets I was using plus the old bolt for the oil drip pan somewhere into the bottom of the engine bay and I can’t find them. I guess I need to go find a local mechanic and have them put it on a lift to take the bottom cover off to find what I dropped.
take a look at the video here: It's bad... ruclips.net/video/G4fv0i_OhOg/видео.html If you don't have that issue yet then you're lucky... How many miles on your vehicle?
@@iRepairAutos when comparing the new vs old part: the plastic shroud seems like its facing the wrong way ! The fact the tightening bolt is reverse threaded tells me that part spins with the camshaft and wears out the rubber seal on the hose adapter cover piece. It's almost comical to see the extent Benz goes into to create to profit center for its cheap plastic parts. It comes complete with a cheap seal that leaks oil over the exhaust... no detail was spared to ensure lower reliability 😂
Keith, Thanks again. Another excellent video. I had followed your perfect instructions for replacing the air intake manifold then watch these and followed their instructions as well. No one makes videos with as much attention to detail as you do.
My goodness you're a genius man. I just got my intake manifold swapped for a new one, and I go and do this test and there is oil in the hose! Going to get it changed asap to avoid damaging the new intake. Thank you again so much for this valuable information!!!
Just did this on my 08 E350, thank you for the how-to! You're the only person I've found that posted the whole process, not just the cover. Keep up the great videos!
Did we really need it or was the cover enough? I'm about to do mine but if I need the separator I might as well
same car .Use T30 not T10
Easy as pie on a 2011, w212 e350. Four e10 (or 8mm box end) gets the top piece off. One reverse threaded bolt using 1/4” deep well socket gets the oil catch can off. Mine was not very tight. Thanks Keith!! No more oil on the exhaust.
I used a regular wrnench to remove that top left bolt.
Thank You for showing the replacement of the spinner. So many videos and most don't even mention it. Then one did mention it having left handed thread. Now I understand the spinner sits against the cover (opposed to fitting inside).
On a w211 m272 bolts are T27 on cover. E8 on oil drip pan bolt, or a 1/4 hex will work too.
Also on my 08 w204. What a bitch that one bottom left one was.
3:15 that quater inch six pointed socket it also know as Female E-TORX 8 or inverse torx 8. that is what we name that socket here in Europe.
Thank you for this video, i was able to finisch this repair today :)
Keith, I just replaced the oil drip pan and cover on my 2011 S212 E350 as it was approaching 100k miles and wanted to change it before it failed. Thanks for your informative video which made changing it a breeze.
Excellent vid! I bought a 2012 c300 and after a trip to canada I noticed some oil leaking. Found your video, took it to my bro's garage and confirmed this was the problem. Thanks again for suck a great video and saving me from having to take it to the dealership! Mvto Mvto
I changed the oil drip pan and breather port on my 2010 ML350 today. It wasn’t that bad. It’s just a little tight back there. so one thing I noticed in the video is that you said to take the bolts off by turning it clockwise. I realized that you would be turning clockwise if you were standing behind the engine. Since you were standing in the front of the engine, it would be counterclockwise to take the bolt off. Meaning turn the socket to the left to take it off and to the right to tighten it back up.
I just realize that the part you are holding is really suppose to save and prevent oil from going into the MAF and into the intake manifold. The part suppose to drip out and spinning out any oil collected. However, that is not enough. Have you install a catch can? I been seeing this quiet a lot and thought this might be a perfect application for this issue. Just a thought, what is the construction of the oil drip pan. How does it looks like from the inside?
BTW a 12 point 8mm opened end ratchet wrench worked well to remove drip pan/separator cover. Thanks for this video. My 2012 GLK 350 oil drip pan did not have a groove only 54k miles.
Changed this entire PCV system without any issues thanks to your videos. Thank you sir!
This is a useful video. However, when I followed this video, the REVERSE thread screw present in this video was NOT present in a 2014 GLK350. Ask me how I know. I snapped it off turning the oil drip plan screw clockwise, thinking I was loosening it. Obviously, you think it was stuck and so more torque to remove resulted in breaking the bolt. After several hours, I was able to remove the broken bolt with a flexible extension attached to a drill and a right angle attachment with a broken bolt extractor to remove it. What a pain!
The PCV valve and its diaphragm is the culprit, not the internal part in metal rubbing against the soft plastic diaphragm. Replacing the PCV valve it enough.
But thank you for the reminder of reverse thread.
+J. Badinter be careful and inspect the oil drip pan. This is a part that wears out and causes much grief. Trust me on this.
Oil drip pan?
I only changed the pcv valve and I still had oil in the tube.. so I guess that oil separator is mandatory
Technically, I think the design for that oil separator suppose to collect and get any oil collected then spin out. That is why you will see holes on the outside. However, the oil fumes still continue out to the tube and into the MAF / intake. I was thinking, an oil catch can may help as a secondary prevention on oil getting into the MAF and the air intake manifold. The pcv cover is the issue where oil leaks and as usual the o ring on the cover gets bad over time. But this does not stop oil getting into the MAF and air intake that cause all that oil that the drum intake manifold is failing. I believe a catch can is the result. As seen with other car's application for this same reason of oil in the intake, this might be a solution. Not a permanent solution, as oil fumes still get suck into the air intake, but at least another line of defense is in place.
The separator gets dirty. Therfore, less effective. This becomes more true with age of engine as well as poor oil change practices (which include oil type, change intervals, demands put on engine, etc).
Adding a catch can on a used car would be a good belt and suspenders approach to reducing intake manifold gunk buildup
How does that metal shaft wear down from a plastic rubbery diaphragm? I should probably do this. I've already had intake flaps replaced at 90K.
The bolt that holds the oil separator wheel on is reverse threaded.
e10 for bolt correct?
@@The_McD I dunno, that was too long ago
Thank you. Great instruction. I used a 1/4 inch wrench to remove that hard to get bolt on the breather.
Great video.....Thank you.....you are going to save me $$$$$$.....Also, big thanks....you are the only one who shows where this part is located.
I have a 08 e320cdi with the om642 engine. I have recently changed the rebreather. The one I got is an updated version, where the breather and the drip pan come all in one. Mercedes thinking behind that must be that they reckon that the breather and drip pan wear out at the same time. The nice thing about this is, when I fitted the the breather, I had fitted the new drip pan too.
Great video and instructions. Changed my oil separator and cam plugs today. Easy job took me 1 hour start to finish.
I was just trying to remove that 1/4" bolt and I remembered you mentioned it was clockwise to remove it. So I had to search for this video again to verify. Thank you!
Someone put torques bit on the cover, instead of the ones you have. Makes it really difficult.
Torx style bolts are used on the M272 V6 engines and the M273 V8 engines utilize E10 mounted bolts
@@Sdenney6970 yes, since that reply, I have noticed this and bought a whole set of torx sockets. I also found that ford uses a German engine that also uses a lot of torx bolts, but not all of them. 4.0 SOHC V6. That engine is a nightmare to change a timing chain. LOL
thank you so much,,, do we really need to replace the oil drip pan since i don't see any seals on it, i do see the seal on the vent cap though, thank you
Ikr most other vids dont change it
We're is this part located on my 2006 s500 4matic.
Amazing video. Thank you Sooo much. I had to replace my intake manifold last year (2006 ML350) and replaced ventilation valve last summer. After watching this video, I'm going to replace ventilation valve again as well as the drip pan. Thanks again!!!
Thanks! Let me know how the job turns out.
I dropped the drip pan bolt what size do I need? Please help
Wow should i do that on my 08 c300?
I have no luck unscrewing the oil pan bolt. Tried it many times but it is too tight to turn loose. Any suggestions?
Any videos to do this on a M276 2013 C300
Your video was a lifesaver! I would have screwed it up if not for you 😄Thanks so much for taking the time to make the vid.
I had same issue. I think it's because of this that I had oil on spark plug electrodes too since the intake.manfold sucks up this oil
this thing is on diesel engines or on petrol too sir. I have a 2004 merc 200 petrol.
What is the inner bolt size of the oil separator , I’m using deep well 8mm and it catches but doesn’t turn do to it having star points on it aswell . Would a ser of deep well e torx E4-E8 would they work ? But what is a generic version so I wouldn’t have to wait for shipping please
Great video as I noticed oil somewhere and changed the separator but in oil pan and just changed it this evening now I’m mad cause i have to go back and replace oil as I noticed it dripping down to catalytic converter. I need part ASAP and replace
Yes, that is a normal situation. You would smell it in your cabin as the oil fume it gets burned travels in. Yes, it so happens that is were the air for the cabin is at (air filter). No such a smart design from mercedes.
Is that 10 inch pounds or 10 foot pound
I’m not sure, but I think you have to replace the lower valve as well on the driver side
None on the other side in the 6 cylinder.
Hi Keith, did a new reverse thread Bolt come with the oil separator? I just bought a new one "Mercedes" and no new Bolt in the Box.
Thank you for all your great Videos! Keep them coming! Wish you were near me to help record my GL 450 repairs. Their have been Plenty. Long Island NY Thanks again.
No, the bolt is a separate item. Mercedes should have it.
@@iRepairAutos Thank you. I haven't done the job yet but I'm pretty sure the one in there will be fine.
Most likely. The bolt is inexpensive. I would get it.
Should I lubricate the diaphragm on the rebreather before installing it on the drip pan?
No need, it will get moulded into when you install it back.
Hello man, thanx for the exelent tip and video , i got e350, and got bad smell from exhaust and machine is eating oil , do you think its pcv valve ?
Is that factory device as good or better than a dedicated oil catch can?
what size of socket do you use to remove the oil drip pan bolt?
Does the 2005 c320 4- matic have one of these?
I have w203 yer 2005 i need to change oil drip pan bat my car is with diesel not petroil. Is this item for my car or not?
Hi Keith
Iam replacing the intake so off course I decided to replace the oil drip pan and cover. S!@# i broke the bolt that is suppose to go clockwise. Any ideas u might have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Holy crap. That's bad. You might have to change the top end. I would try to remove the bolt.
@@iRepairAutos just subscribed and liked. First time ever did that. May I suggest maybe saying clockwise/towards the passanger for us air heads. Thanks for your videos.
حليتي المشكله؟
A couple of questions. 1) At the 4:39 minute mark, there is a grey harness to the right of the screen sitting on the transmission bell housing. What is that ? Mine is tightly against the PCV cap, turns and runs along the sides of cyl 1-4. 2) The drip pan seems to have been redesigned slightly (oil exit holes). Is there a reason for this redesign ? I have a 2010 E550.
Keith - thanks for the video. Very helpful. Had some leakage bottom of rebreather cover so decided to replace it and the centrifuge. No issues taking everything apart but the new centrifuge would not seat onto the camshaft no matter how much I fiddled with it. I ended up putting the old centrifuge back on (it seats easily) and buttoning everything back up. Any trick to get the new centrifuge to properly seat on the camshaft?
So I finally got another rebreather cover and tried this again. This time, the original centrifuge I purchased 2 years ago fit correctly and the new rebreather cover fit nicely as well. I was very surprised to find the rebreather cover I replace 2 years ago was full of oil and the gasket was very much enlarged. Hoping that the new centrifuge I put in today will help to keep the oil pass-thru down to a minimum this time.
I see what you did.... you need to heat up the center of the cover where the cylinder is going to be hitting with a hair dryer. That way when you put the cover back on it should fit more snug... (Just a little Tip that might Help)
@@yung.holdin9493 Never would have thought of that. As my comment from three years ago, last year I tried to put this on again and was successful after lots more difficulty. Wish I had seen your comment earlier!!
Sorry for not responding. Didn't see any of these until now. That's a good trick to get it seated. Glad it worked for you.
What Mercedes-Benz Engine? Look like M272.
Thanks for the great videos ! Question, Other then oil in the breather hose, are there any signs or systems or performance issues that would tell us these parts have failed?
Your oil consumption will go up; You will see add/check oil at next filler station more often than usual. As the part wears out more you will be greeted with the add/check oil even more often; Your air intake manifold at this time has probably failed or will fail soon.
iRepair Autos is there a mileage recommendation do you think the pan needs to be changed ? I changed the cover last year (I didn’t have any leaks but I just wanted to change as a maintenance item) but had a hard time getting the pan out (tight space and not small enough tool to fit in back there). So I just returned the pan. I only have 48,000 miles on my 2010 e350 sedan.
have these things been the same or similar design on earlier e320 models? do the w124s have a similar part?
What do you think about using a catch can in this hose?
Hi Keith, Do these parts exist for 2006 ML500 & ML350? Thanks,
hey man thanks for the vids they are definitely helping. That centrifuge that you show at the 4:06 mark is any part of it supposed to turn with the engine off or does it spin when the engine is on? I ask because supposedly a mechanic replaced this for me in 2018 but my hose and cover have oil in it, the gasket in the middle is not snug around the centrifuge which seems like they should be for something done in 2018, only 20,000 miles have been added since. Wouldn't a tech change both cover and centrifuge together vs just the problem part? or can they tell and only change whats needed at the time? thanks if you an answer and be well just the same if you cannot. Either way my manifold is currently on the floor of my garage covered in oil inside and out. The air flap actuator lever in the front broke and the other two are gummy to say the least. Still wagering on whether I should replace and recon the plastic bits on the front of the manifold or just get a new manifold.
I just had this repair done by an authorized mercedes repair shop (2008 ml350) but now it's burning oil . I don't know if one thing has anything to do with the other but seems odd that all of a sudden I'm seeing smoke out the exhaust and I'm topping oil every couple of weeks. It does have over 100,000 miles on engine.
Cam covers check those out and don't let them charge you $300.
They're behind the engine top side of driver side. Round. In shape.
Man, I Wish it is this easy on the Newer M276 Engine. It is Unbelievable The location and procedure they Placed/set to replace these 2 Parts on the M276 engines..
They make these jobs harder in smaller more compact vehicles
@@iRepairAutos It's a problem even on the W212 and in a similar location. Problem is, on the M276, the High pressure fuel pump run at the back of the intake camshaft puts it in the way of the PCV Cover and prevents access to one of the bolts for the cover.
Did you have any issues with the oil separator at all??? Im about to do this to my 2011 Mercedes-Benz E350 4Matic.
Yes, they wear out over time. And needs changing
I found oil in the same hose as you did in your video. Do you think I should just do cover and drip pan or the kit that includes all these parts?
crankcase oil
separator cover, expansion plugs
crankcase breather hose, oil separator,
crankcase breather oil separator, and full
load breather hose.
@@fermingrajales do everything.
Do you have a video that shows how to replace the crankcase breather oil separator, I keep looking around and haven't found one yet. I really appreciate your help.
@@fermingrajales this oil seperator and cover also serves as crankcase breather....
How old is that drip pan that it has the groove warn in it
Very old. More than 120k miles
Can u replace coil with any cool t or it's a specific cool for each
Also, Apparently, I'm looking online and it says it's the same part for the Oil Drip Pan for 2006-2016/2017 Models.. ??? However, yours has a different part number..??? Anyhow, this and one other YT Vid is the Only video/Picture that I could find Online regarding this Oil Drip Pan (Or Centrifuge - I believe)- As it's called on the newer engine... But, I'm looking at this part and I can't figure out how it works and you didn't say either. Looks like it bolts onto the back of the Camshaft. So does that mean the Oil Drip Pan Spins/Rotates along with Camshaft while in Operation??? 🤔🤔🤔
Hope you can give some insights - I'm trying to determine if Mine needs to be replaced at Only 50K Miles. Engine Shakes while Idling I noticed that there is a restriction in the Breather/PCV hose/Line and I don't think it should be, I've ordered the Breather Cover But I'm trying to determine if I'll also need the Centrifuge/Oil Drip Pan... Car is a 2014 Mercedes C350.
The part is the same. There are two part numbers because one is a cover and the other is the centrifuge also known as the oil drip pan which spins
Thnx for ur video is there a way you do this on the side?
yes, where are you located?
Question...Should you not clean the re-breather hose and the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body as well?
Leave the MAF sensor alone. The hose can be cleaned if needed.
Normally the MAF does not get affected, but if you follow the hose, it goes down the plastic elbow where the maf gets install on top.
You will find oil fume residues on this elbow part. Mind as well clean the MAF if you find oil fumes residues. Also since you are at it you will find your throttle body (butterfly) is cover with oil fumes residues. So clean that. Now if you find an are cleaning this, get ready for this.... Yes.. Your intake manifold may be gummed up and has oil fumes resides. This is like you standing at ridge and staring out and up looking at a big mountain. Yup, welcome to our world of your next project. Replacing the intake manifold. You might even find oil slick / deposit at the front end of the intake manifold, where its a black pump actuator with plastic rods and about the plastic triangle that get broken. Yup.. Now looking back, yes, clean up all those fumes and deposit does help preventing the bigger problem or slows it down.
Hey is the centrifuge piece that tightens down left hand thread. Is it suppose to be just right enough to spin it freely or should it not have any movement to it???? Please help, any advice would be appreciated.
Tight. It should not spin freely. Only when the cams spin.
Does 2008 Gl550 have this part where can I can email you my VIN?
Great video, as usual. After this is done, is there any way to do at least some cleanup of the oil/carbon buildup in the intake manifold and intake valves without having to remove the intake manifold? I see videos of people dropping water through carburetors on warm engines to cleanup carbon in the intake; is there a comparable method for cars with fuel injection and MAF sensors that is safe and effective?Thank you again for a great job.
Thanks Maxwell. There is no safe product in my opinion that will properly clean the plastic parts internal to the Air Intake Manifold without going into the piston ports and ending up internal to your bearings and engine oil which will cause failure. The reason why the manifold is hard to clean is because the oil on the plastic is micronized (more like smudge) and sits densely on these parts. check the cleaning video here: ruclips.net/video/GsWqdiBHG18/видео.html
Hello it's jammell can u tell me the how the engine could are numbered on a v8 engine in what order are they if u are standing in front of car
Hi I have an SLK230 R170, will this be a usable fix with my engine? By the way great vid!
Great information. Will do this on my GL450 soon. Your a great tech...
What tool did you use to remove crankcase breather?
What are the signs in your car's operation that this needs to be done. Can this be the problem if I'm getting white smoke on the start up in the morning or when my car is cool?
The sign are when you start smelling burnt oil in your cabin. The oil leaks at the pvc as it is overflowed due to failure of the elastic ring it attaches on to the oil separator pan. Also the oil separator pan is probably flooded and oil is getting pushed into the pvc cover as well. This then start to leak out between the bottom cover and it drips down to the exhaust pipe and gets burned off. It will get worst and worst until you get fogged up with oil fume inside your car cabin.
This is also another indication where your intake manifold will start getting clogged and soon you will have 2 codes saying the intake manifold/swirl flaps had failed. This is due to the all the fumes from these two parts had failed and letting fumes travel all the way down depositing into the intake manifold.
Do you know what's the problem if my hood is stuck and won't open ,it will release the driver side but not the passenger side any clues
Yes. Get a second person to sit in the car and hold the hood release on the open position. While you tap gently to aggressively on the stuck side. You may have to push down and up on the hood while doing this. You have a stuck side. Don't dent the hood in the process.
@@iRepairAutos thank you for the help I just did what you said about 3 hours ago and nothing yet, see what exactly happened is that my hood got stuck in the mechanic store when I was getting a oil change when he finished and I was ready to go I asked him if he can change the air filter also he said yes so I went to open the hood it didn't open got stuck passenger side so he tried the mechanic for a while then it was time to close the shop so he told me to go back Tuesday August 4 that's what really happened
Does it feel like the cable for the good release is broken? Your mechanic may have to go in and up from underneath and spray lubricants on the latch to loosen it up and may even have to disengage it from underneath. It is a real pain.
I didn't get a new bolt for the oil separator, just reused the old one? Is it gonna be a problem in the long run? Thx.
Uhm..... Hmm. I hope not. And most likely not a problem.
Got a 2008 CLS 550 need to change crankcase valve this video helped a lot didn’t even know about the oil drip pan or how important it is to change the dealer will never tell you that thanks man
I don't think this is a maintenance part they will look into until you complain about oil fumes in your cabin (which is the end result) or when you find oil deposits in your intake manifold (or it had failed). But then again, even if you replace your intake manifold (as this is link how or why it fails), they may not look at these 2 parts to be replace if it wasn't leaking. However, if you trace the rubber tube, your down elbow (maf), throttle body, intake manifold, the pump actuators in from of the intake manifold - you will find oil stains and gummy substance in the area. You might think where is it leaking oil.. It's not leaking oil, it's just deposits over time it collected. Also, I believes the amount of deposit depends how hard the car is driven as.
Would a faulty pvc course a black puff when you put your foot down? I've 270 CDI
Nope.. Not that I know of. If you have black puff, might be some where in your exhaust system is having a problem or worst, a bad gasket on the exhaust side of the engine.
I used a 1/4inch socket but it rounded the bolt holding the drip pan. Any recommendations how to get that bolt out?
That sounds bad. Did you turn it clockwise to loosen? This one is a right turn to loosen.
@@iRepairAutos yes I did, I even tried an etorx bit and a 6 mm socket but the bolt was super tight and the head didn't hold
Hi there! My C280 has the OIL DIPSTICK TUBE omitted! Can I still use and extractor when I change the oil?? I've searched high and low to figure this out!
This has nothing to do with the oil dipstick tube. Yes, mercedes had removed the dipstick tube and you will see a red cover over it. However, some people use that tube to extract oil (for oil changes, with an oil pump extractor). You can always do the other way, remove the plastic cover panels underneath the car and remove the bolt to change oil.
@@kito1san the whole reason for my buying and using the extractor on our 4 cars is to avoid going under the car. But thanks for the information regarding the dip stick
I changed mine both the pcv and the oil separator, the car still smoking on cold start, by high revvs and hard acceleration.. ( E63 "12 M157). Do you think it might be a failed valve stem seal? Or I didn't change the pcv and the oil separator correctly.
Same happened to mine. I have done an engine rebuild and after like 6 month, the smoke started againz especially on my second oil change. Its crazy. Pls were you able to sort it out? I would appreciate any input or insight.
@@adeyinkaadebayo4192 yes, actually the valve stem seals was hard so I changed it, valve guides were loose too so also changed.. The block sleeve was bad ib cylinder no.1. So I changed the sleeve and the piston rings of all pistons. Plus turbo service.. Now it runs perfectly.
hi! what kind of a camera are you using? it seems to fit in the tightest of the engine bay! good video and instructions.
So, if I got this right this "rebreather" must try to take out the oil from the Crankcase air (like a PCV system).
If this rebreather etc is replaced is there really a need for an oil catch can?
Is this the m112 engine or the later ?is it m272? Cheers
There is no need for an oil rebreather if the system is working properly. This is the w164 vehicle.
This applies to M272 V6 and M273 V8.
Hey Keith..love your videos they’re amazing and have helped immensely pls keep them going! I have a CLK 280 W209 2007. Had the oil drip prob onto cat and had leaky cam plug cap and PCV cover. Two questions; my mechanic took off the the PCV cover and the gasket was worn causing the leak, he said don’t change the oil drip pan no need and would also mess with timing. Also the three cam plug plastic caps I changed the two small ones (one was leaking). Cannot for the life of me find the large plug cap, is this missing on some models depending on year? In your video it’s in the drivers side next to the smaller one but cannot find it on either rear side of the engine. Many thanks 🙏🏼
that PCV cover needs to be changed as the diaphragm wears out and allows blow by. It will not affect timing in any way shape or form. Your car may not have that large cam port.
Is this part used on a W210 M112 (1999 E320) engine? I don't see it at the end of the breather hoses.
It's buried under the oil drip cover
why you dont explain the ml320 engine model?
I don't have access to that model.
I have a ‘01 c240, this is the first time working on one. does anyone know if I even have this or is this part on all Mercedes?
In the comments, someone asked which specific models/engines this is a potential issue. Keith answered with an extensive list. Definitely check that to start. Believe this is on all m272 (v6) & m273 (v8) equipped vehicles
At 4:58 do you use the same bolt from previous or do you need new bolt ?
Same. But you can change a new bolt if you want. You want to be be careful with this bolt though as it goes on to the camshaft.
Thank u for doing this
Thank you! Would have likely stripped or snapped the bolt trying to turn it the wrong way if not for your video!
You would want to be careful with that bolt. It goes onto the camshaft. It would be an extreme expensive fix if that would to happen.
At what mileage interval should I be replacing these two parts? Thanks.
This part should be changed out or at minimum inspected every 50,000 miles. The cover should be replaced whenever leaking.
@@iRepairAutos if I change the oil drip pan following your suggested internal, is it still necessary to install an oil catch can? Thanks.
No. The oil catch can is NOT necessary. Make sure you change the cover to the drip pan as well. The diaphragm on the cover wears out and oil can slip by.
@@iRepairAutos thanks. Will do on my glk 350. Planning on installing the oil catch can as well. Is it considered as double insurance?
You're good !
Thanks Medicine Herbal!
Nice video. Many thanx. Good & informative DIY replacement of the PCV/Oil drip Pan !!
Did 2011 E350 had this issue?
Yes
What mileage or age and what type of engine/ models??
150K miles; W164 Engine was in the video:
Mercedes Benz C230 Sport V6 2.5L 272.920
Mercedes Benz C280 4Matic V6 3.0L 272.941
Mercedes Benz C280 Luxury V6 3.0L 272.940
Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic Luxury V6 3.0L 272.948
Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic Sport V6 3.0L 272.948
Mercedes Benz C300 Luxury V6 3.0L 272.947
Mercedes Benz C300 Luxury V6 3.0L 272.948
Mercedes Benz C300 Sport V6 3.0L 272.947
Mercedes Benz C300 Sport V6 3.0L 272.948
Mercedes Benz C350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.970
Mercedes Benz C350 Luxury V6 3.5L 272.960
Mercedes Benz C350 Sport V6 3.5L 272.960
Mercedes Benz C350 Sport V6 3.5L 272.961
Mercedes Benz CL550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.968
Mercedes Benz CL550 Base V8 5.5L 273.961
Mercedes Benz CLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.960
Mercedes Benz CLK550 Base V8 5.5L 273.967
Mercedes Benz CLS550 Base V8 5.5L 273.960
Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic V6 3.5L
Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.972
Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.977
Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L
Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L 272.964
Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L 272.980
Mercedes Benz E350 Base V6 3.5L 272.988
Mercedes Benz E550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.962
Mercedes Benz E550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.970
Mercedes Benz E550 Base V8 5.5L 273.960
Mercedes Benz E550 Base V8 5.5L 273.966
Mercedes Benz E550 Base V8 5.5L 273.971
Mercedes Benz G550 Base V8 5.5L 273.963
Mercedes Benz GL450 Base V8 4.6L 273.923
Mercedes Benz GL550 Base V8 5.5L 273.963
Mercedes Benz GLK350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.971
Mercedes Benz GLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.991
Mercedes Benz ML350 Base V6 3.5L
Mercedes Benz ML350 Base V6 3.5L 272.967
Mercedes Benz ML550 Base V8 5.5L 273.963
Mercedes Benz R350 4Matic V6 3.5L
Mercedes Benz R350 4Matic V6 3.5L 272.967
Mercedes Benz R350 Base V6 3.5L 272.967
Mercedes Benz S400 Hybrid V6 3.5L 272.974
Mercedes Benz S550 4Matic V8 5.5L 273.968
Mercedes Benz S550 Base V8 5.5L 273.961
Mercedes Benz SL550 Base V8 5.5L 273.965
Mercedes Benz SLK280 Base V6 3.0L 272.942
Mercedes Benz SLK300 Base V6 3.0L 272.942
Mercedes Benz SLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.963
Mercedes Benz SLK350 Base V6 3.5L 272.969
@@iRepairAutos this engineered failure was put to good use by Benz on so many different engines. This "centrifugal separator" may still be used in 2020 production 😰
Yeah, sad. They ought to know better by now.
Really good job.. tight back there...gotta get drip pan..thanks
Another great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Excellent work...
Bolt size?
Yes.. i want to know what tools to use to remove the bolt
Bolt head is E8, I used a Gearwrench 1/4 ratchet and their small extension. Worked perfectly. Remember it's reverse thread. Just go easy. Thanks.
its hard to get into mines I have a R350
I have no room
The W203 has even less room. Use a right angle screwdriver with T30 bit if they are screws. Available at HFT for about $6.
hi, how does work this oil drip pan? i want to know, is there some holes inside that metallic cyllinder except bolt?last year i've changed the pcv valve only, yesterday i have checked and there is any oil. So i m wondering, maybe some mess filled that hole inside that metallic cylinder and no ventilation is happening any more.
It has tiny holes in the plastics. This lets air through but spins and separates the oil out. I'll do a video.
@@iRepairAutos oh thanks, waiting for video. So the metallic cylinder at the center doesn't have any holes for ventilation, right?
iRepair Autos hey can you do that video on how the oil drip pan actually works?
Also, I changed the one on my 2010 e350. What a pain in the neck as there is no room back there for any kind of ratchet. That bolt on the bottom left is a killer, so close to the firewall. And of course I ended up dropping one of the sockets I was using plus the old bolt for the oil drip pan somewhere into the bottom of the engine bay and I can’t find them. I guess I need to go find a local mechanic and have them put it on a lift to take the bottom cover off to find what I dropped.
Great video ✊🏿👍
Why not just clean this part and reuse as there is nothing to wear out on this piece as I can see.
take a look at the video here: It's bad... ruclips.net/video/G4fv0i_OhOg/видео.html
If you don't have that issue yet then you're lucky... How many miles on your vehicle?
@@iRepairAutos when comparing the new vs old part: the plastic shroud seems like its facing the wrong way !
The fact the tightening bolt is reverse threaded tells me that part spins with the camshaft and wears out the rubber seal on the hose adapter cover piece.
It's almost comical to see the extent Benz goes into to create to profit center for its cheap plastic parts.
It comes complete with a cheap seal that leaks oil over the exhaust... no detail was spared to ensure lower reliability 😂
Thanks.. nice bike too
Your a savior ☺️ for us DIY
great work bud!!
Thanks!
@@iRepairAutos keith you're the man