My 1950’s house had factory stained wood floors when I had them stripped and sanded down left the finishing up to the professional’s, I came back to see orange floors. As I lived in an apartment for several years with 1960’s orange carpets that was a no go. Ready to have the floors stained black the fellas recommend a white polyurethane. Couldn’t have been happier. The colors in the wood were beautiful. Pale greens every now and then and no more orange. Over the years it’s held up well. It’s a mat Finish.
I have watched so many vedios on finishes. But the truth is that this is the best The explanation and the application demo so good that even a lay man can understand. I'm doing a upright piano and I've stripped it down to bare wood and was wondering what finish do i go for now i really have an idea and a clear picture.. Thanks
Thank you Daan. I used to have dirty hands, but I quickly got fed up of seeing my stained fingers when I went out in the evening or weekend. Now we use disposable (Compostable) gloves. ✅ Best Wishes Simon 😁
Absolutely agree with you about the hard wax product. I haven't tried your brand yet (not available yet here in Canada) but I do use one of the other brands you mentioned. I have been re-purposing antique/vintage furniture as a hobby for about 2 yrs and this product is a game changer to achieve a professional finish. I didn't know you could wax over the top so will be trying that with my Gilboy's. Love your waxes and thank you for sharing your excellent tips.
Thanks Susan. Isn't it great stuff! I won't ramble on about again, as I have just done so to David Mitchell's comment above. Yes. You don't have to wax it, But I like the finish it gives you, especially when refinishing old furniture ✅ And. And! You can wax the surface first and then apply the HWO over the top! 😳 You cant do that on any other finishes! Thank you once again. Simon
I have just recently moved over to Hard Wax Oil. Mostly for my wood turning, but also on a few small items. Please get your crew to invent a touchy / feely Computer screen so we can feel the textures ( 🤪🤪). Gilly Stephens products are made a stones throw from my house and I also use their products on cutting boards and similar. An Observation... Your resident steam train is 'Cheating'. It has a Diesel Loco pushing it along. I would be asking for my money back. Thanks Simon, for the show and tell 😊
Thanks Peter. Great to hear from you. It would be great to be able to have that sensory experience. Imagine watching 'Charlie and the Chocolate Factory' or 'The Bake Off' 😀 I think the whomever was in charge of the Heritage Line that day was questioning whether to go with Steam or Diesel? And thought; 'Blow it', I'll go for both! 😅
So glad you did this video, I was debating what finish to do on some antique mahogany dining chairs I picked up. I am glad to know that the hard wax oil will work as a durable finish. Thanks!
Hi Simon. Thanks for your video. I used your wax today on a burl walnut stationery box...beautiful. The sunflower seeds you sent are also coming up well here in Toronto!
My understanding is that danish oil is more than just oil, but contains a blend of mineral spirit, resins and varnish, acting like a wiping varnish. I find it to be a great compromise offering good protection and appearance and can be further enhanced with a coat of wax
Completely agree. As a hobbyist woodworker I have used Osmo oil on just about everything ( floors/hardwood windows/ furniture projects )for 20 years but with increasing cost have recently tried the Gilboys Hard wax oil. Pleased to report excellent results and loved the orange oil smell while applying
I recently watched a video comparing a number of hard wax oils, including Rubios (of which Rubio's did not do so well). And although, the idea of it seemed logical I was not to excited about the need of mixing hardeners with them suggesting that there were perhaps other elements in the mix that I would not like in the mix. However, while watching this I noticed that it contained no toxic or petroleum chemicals nor was there a need for a separate hardener. Now, I have a number of pieces of antiques, nothing expensive but roughly a hundred to a hundred and a half years old. Some of the original finishes have been almost worn away, while others look to simply need a good waxing. At first, I was just going to go the route of buying the Antique Gold wax, but then seeing how nice a finish the wax oil combined with the wax on top of it looked I am thinking of going that route. However, I have no experience with wood working or finishing and no idea what the proper thing to actually do is. I have these things not because of any value inherent to them, as that doesn't matter to me at all. It's just that I love old things, and this is the first time in my life when I can do as I wish without having to compromise with anyone else who would rather go the modern route of processes wood furniture meant to be tossed away in two years. So, seeing how the Gilboy's wax oil works with the wax as well really has me chomping at the bit. Especially with an antique oak bookcase glass cabinet that I recently found. The finish or original wax seems to have completely worn away and really just could use a new wax job, but I think using the wax oil first then the wax on top of it would be much more durable. We shall see.
I used the Gilboys hard wax oil it was very good when used on my project , however I when I returned back to it a few months later it had completely hardened inside the tin.
I just bought an antique (here in the US) oak cabinet and the current finish is failing in front--oddly in almost uniform droplet shapes, which makes me wonder if there was an accident of someone dropping something that spattered onto the finish and over time affected the finish? I don't know, but I clearly need to do something and don't want to refinish the whole piece. I love the color and sheen on the existing finish, so just want to do something that minimizes the damage and protects the piece going forward. I spend HOURS this week researching products that might work and had just about given up (every time I found one that sounded good I would do more research and find people complaining about the formula changing, or a certain ingredient being bad for wood long term, or too strong-smelling--read high VOC--to use indoors, and it would be back to the computer to keep researching). Then I found your page and these products sound perfect! But I am such a novice I don't know if I should put the hard wax oil over the existing finish and then use the beeswax or just use the beeswax. . . ? Can you please advise what you recommend people do when the piece is overall finished (and I don't know what kind of finish it has--clearly not poly though) and needs a touch-up? Thank you!
Thank you. The best thing to do first, Is just use our beeswax polish. Keep it simple. Theres no need to apply anything else at this stage. the polish may be all you need and you are not going to do any damage by using it. Take a look at our website and read the reviews. I think it will help you. kind regards Simon
@@GilboysRestoration OK that may have seemed self-explanatory to you but it was very helpful to me! I ordered kits from your site last week and am looking forward to trying them : )
Hi Gilboys If I Was To Use A Water Based Stain Can I Still Apply Hard Wax Oil Over The Top. Many Thanks Adam Ps I Just Think Your Product Are Fantastic
I'm sure the hard wax oil in California would have a cancer warning, because the paper or the ink on the paper, the container, the wax, the bees, you named they will find something :))))
Thanks for the video, great breakdown of the various finishes available. One thing I'd say is that you're using oak veneer rather than solid wood, so the oil products are going to struggle as there's simply no "meat on the bone" for them to soak into? I'm far from the pro that you are, but the times I've used oil finishes they've gone off reasonably quickly on solid wood products (although I'd also admit they were yearly applications to bone dry, sun cooked wood, so.... Sponge City! ;p)
Hi. Hard wax oil works very well on veneer. Unlike traditional oils like, Danish, Tung, Teak etc. Hard Wax Oils don't penetrate anywhere near as deep into the wood. They bond with the top surface of the wood and immediately start drying. Its one of the many positives of using them. It's also one of the many reasons why I really like them. 🙂 Kind regards Simon
Overall Stephen, I cannot disagree with your observations re these various finishes. For myself, I too love using shellac/french polish and have used this on all the antiques and antique joinery In my homes. It’s my go to finish. I absolutely agree that with table tops that are likely to have hot drinks or even cold drinks etc it’s not so practical but I can live with this. I am yet to try it out but I do know of a product out here from a supplier called hard shellac (not sure exactly what it is) that apparently is more resistant/durable to exposure from heat and water. Out here in Australia, there was a company (Feast Watson) that used to produce a tung oil/poly finish which was absolutely brilliant to use and over the years I used it on all my floors, some joinery and bench tops in the kitchen/bathroom. Heat and water never caused this finish any issues, and if damaged or worn it was easy to repair. Alas for some reason they have stopped making this finish. I recently finished some kitchen bench tops and shelving using a oil based product (Livos Kunos countertop oil). The client wanted me to use this, and it was slow drying but after 5 coats it gave a reasonable satin finish which hopefully will be durable. Did I like it though, no. I personally won’t use finishes like linseed, danish, orange oil etc as I have never had good results with any of these and yes the drying time between coats is such a pain. The hard wax oil is a product I have yet to try but given your comments on this, I think I am going to have to try it out. So given this, do you need to sand back between coats to achieve a good finish and if you apply multiple coats say at a minimum of 3-4, will it always stay satin or with increasing numbers of coats will it result in a level of gloss ?? Recently, I have been doing a lot of wood refinishing on boats and in this environment given the exposure to UV, salt water etc, the whole issue re which wood finish product to use is once again a vexed question. So many different finish products out there but questionable durability to consider and differing opinions/experiences with them.
Hi David Thank you for all your comments and observations. You are right though, it is a minefield when it comes to the choice of finishes. I was introduced to Hard Wax Oil about 8 years ago by an interior designer who wanted us to apply it on one their pieces of furniture. Over time I realised that this product was quite extraordinary in its performance. For years and years we had been using two pack, acid catalysed melamine lacquer for high traffic (modern) dining tables and coffee tables etc. But here was a product that you could just wipe on and re-coat within 8 hours or so. It not only looks better because its not a high build film coating, it also performs at the same high level of hardness and wear. And, And! It also didn't require the person applying it to be dressed up like a spaceman to use it. WOW! I honestly could pour the same product into a number of tins and rename it.... 1) Kitchen Worktop Oil 2) Door Oil 3) Slip Resistant Floor Oil 4) Staircase Oil ( including Treads, risers spindles and handrails) 5) Table Top Oil 6) Food Safe Oil for Wood 7) Toy Safe Wood Oil Because it is all of these things. Durability is always a question, but with these oils they can easily be spot repaired, - (by anyone! 😳) unlike film producing coatings. Bloody marvellous stuff. 😅 I do hope to have an exterior wood oil soon Going back to your question. I tend to favour lightly sanding between coats with 320 grit or the equivalent scotch-brite pad. The sheen level will always stay at smooth satin no matter how many applications. have a look here. 03:20 One, two or three applications? Best wishes Simon
@@GilboysRestoration Hi Simon, wow thankyou so much for your detailed response. It is so helpful and absolutely I totally agree that so many of the old finishes (poly, two pack etc) are so less environmentally friendly, let alone issues to one’s health due to the high VOCs one had to contend with. Having taken on board all you note, I decided given my latest project was the total refurbishment of a kitchen with timber doors, drawers, panels, let alone the floor, all of which was badly marked/worn etc that going with the hard wax oil is the way to go. I must say, like yourself I have found it easy to work with, it dries overnight, the grain of the timbers have come back to life and the overall finish looks excellent. So thankyou, your latest video and your above comments are so much appreciated. Yes, I concur the finish regardless of coats remains satin, but that is nice. I can actually obtain a gloss hard wax here but having looked at the sample demonstration pieces at my paint shop, there didn’t appear to be much difference between satin and gloss. I would be very interested on your opinion/experience with exterior wood finishes in due course as this is something I have to contend with for various purposes at home, let alone on boats etc.
I am rather confused about your hard wax oil, on your website it states "No Petroleum", yet in the Material Safety Data Sheet it states that it contains "Naphtha (petroleum)". How come?
Hi. Yes there is a very tiny amount in there. When we had it tested by an external labelling specialists this year (2023). It was deemed so minor that it did not require any hazard statement in any way. It very important to us that it was a 'hazard free product' which it is. 🙂 I will talk to our web specialist and make sure that our website is updated. ✅ Kindest regards Simon
With all the variety of finishes what do you recommend for cleaning with? Even store bought furniture finishes ? Wishing I knew more about finishes prior to buying furniture. My mom’s go to was endust.
Hi Quest The best way to clean nearly all wood finishes is by wiping with a damp cloth and and wipe dry. There's no real need to use anything else. You could add a little washing up liquid to the cloth if its a dirty surface. I would like to develop and produce our own cleaner for people to use. Maybe a future product. 🙂
We have oak work surfaces in our kitchen that have been oiled but it's not very good with water drips. Is it possible to apply hard wax oil over the top with just a light sanding or would we have to sand it right back to bare wood?
Hi Richard and Julie. Good question. If the top has been previously oiled then ours should go over the top. Its not something I would normally recommend with nearly all the other finishes. But as long as the top is clean of any contamination (food grease etc) and its dry. then it should go over it well. My advice would be to sand it with 320 grit paper and vacuuming off before apply a thin coat. Try it on a small test are first ✅ If it works well, then off you go 😁 Best wishes Simon
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
My 1950’s house had factory stained wood floors when I had them stripped and sanded down left the finishing up to the professional’s, I came back to see orange floors. As I lived in an apartment for several years with 1960’s orange carpets that was a no go. Ready to have the floors stained black the fellas recommend a white polyurethane. Couldn’t have been happier. The colors in the wood were beautiful. Pale greens every now and then and no more orange. Over the years it’s held up well. It’s a mat Finish.
I have watched so many vedios on finishes.
But the truth is that this is the best
The explanation and the application demo so good that even a lay man can understand.
I'm doing a upright piano and I've stripped it down to bare wood and was wondering what finish do i go for now i really have an idea and a clear picture..
Thanks
Such a lovely guy! Great video and very helpful!
Thank you. :-)
Hi Simon great to watch your brilliant videos,keep up the good work and thank you for your kind help
in the past.
Very informative, I will be getting in touch soon I hope, I have a few unfinished projects due to house moves.
Just ordered 2 tins through Amazon, looks like a fantastic finish,can’t wait to try it.
I hope it works well for you. 🙂
Simon.
Simon ,the man with the clean hands , how does he do that ? greetings from the Netherlands , as always , great video!
Thank you Daan.
I used to have dirty hands, but I quickly got fed up of seeing my stained fingers when I went out in the evening or weekend.
Now we use disposable (Compostable) gloves. ✅
Best Wishes
Simon 😁
Absolutely agree with you about the hard wax product. I haven't tried your brand yet (not available yet here in Canada) but I do use one of the other brands you mentioned. I have been re-purposing antique/vintage furniture as a hobby for about 2 yrs and this product is a game changer to achieve a professional finish. I didn't know you could wax over the top so will be trying that with my Gilboy's. Love your waxes and thank you for sharing your excellent tips.
Thanks Susan.
Isn't it great stuff! I won't ramble on about again, as I have just done so to David Mitchell's comment above.
Yes. You don't have to wax it, But I like the finish it gives you, especially when refinishing old furniture ✅
And. And! You can wax the surface first and then apply the HWO over the top! 😳 You cant do that on any other finishes!
Thank you once again.
Simon
I’m a Gilboy’s fan? Best pound for the buck!
I have just recently moved over to Hard Wax Oil. Mostly for my wood turning, but also on a few small items. Please get your crew to invent a touchy / feely Computer screen so we can feel the textures ( 🤪🤪). Gilly Stephens products are made a stones throw from my house and I also use their products on cutting boards and similar. An Observation... Your resident steam train is 'Cheating'. It has a Diesel Loco pushing it along. I would be asking for my money back. Thanks Simon, for the show and tell 😊
Thanks Peter. Great to hear from you.
It would be great to be able to have that sensory experience. Imagine watching 'Charlie and the Chocolate Factory' or 'The Bake Off' 😀
I think the whomever was in charge of the Heritage Line that day was questioning whether to go with Steam or Diesel?
And thought; 'Blow it', I'll go for both! 😅
So glad you did this video, I was debating what finish to do on some antique mahogany dining chairs I picked up. I am glad to know that the hard wax oil will work as a durable finish. Thanks!
It should work perfectly for you Martha. 🙂
Hi Simon. Thanks for your video. I used your wax today on a burl walnut stationery box...beautiful. The sunflower seeds you sent are also coming up well here in Toronto!
My understanding is that danish oil is more than just oil, but contains a blend of mineral spirit, resins and varnish, acting like a wiping varnish. I find it to be a great compromise offering good protection and appearance and can be further enhanced with a coat of wax
Completely agree. As a hobbyist woodworker I have used Osmo oil on just about everything ( floors/hardwood windows/ furniture projects )for 20 years but with increasing cost have recently tried the Gilboys Hard wax oil. Pleased to report excellent results and loved the orange oil smell while applying
Thank you. 😁
I recently watched a video comparing a number of hard wax oils, including Rubios (of which Rubio's did not do so well). And although, the idea of it seemed logical I was not to excited about the need of mixing hardeners with them suggesting that there were perhaps other elements in the mix that I would not like in the mix. However, while watching this I noticed that it contained no toxic or petroleum chemicals nor was there a need for a separate hardener. Now, I have a number of pieces of antiques, nothing expensive but roughly a hundred to a hundred and a half years old. Some of the original finishes have been almost worn away, while others look to simply need a good waxing. At first, I was just going to go the route of buying the Antique Gold wax, but then seeing how nice a finish the wax oil combined with the wax on top of it looked I am thinking of going that route. However, I have no experience with wood working or finishing and no idea what the proper thing to actually do is. I have these things not because of any value inherent to them, as that doesn't matter to me at all. It's just that I love old things, and this is the first time in my life when I can do as I wish without having to compromise with anyone else who would rather go the modern route of processes wood furniture meant to be tossed away in two years. So, seeing how the Gilboy's wax oil works with the wax as well really has me chomping at the bit. Especially with an antique oak bookcase glass cabinet that I recently found. The finish or original wax seems to have completely worn away and really just could use a new wax job, but I think using the wax oil first then the wax on top of it would be much more durable. We shall see.
I used the Gilboys hard wax oil it was very good when used on my project , however I when I returned back to it a few months later it had completely hardened inside the tin.
You are a great evangelist! I am convinced with the benefits of hard wax! When do you plan on having the product for outdoors?
Hopefully by the end of the year. 🙂
Since I discovered hard wax oil I’ve not used anything else. I haven’t tried your brand yet but I’m sure I will at some stage.
Water based polyurethane doesn't modify the color of the dry wood.
Apparently your products are not available in the US. I have tried and like Ode's oil. Closest product available here?
Yes they are available to buy from Amazon.com. We ship them to Amazon fulfilment centres across the USA. 🇺🇸 🙂✅
I just bought an antique (here in the US) oak cabinet and the current finish is failing in front--oddly in almost uniform droplet shapes, which makes me wonder if there was an accident of someone dropping something that spattered onto the finish and over time affected the finish? I don't know, but I clearly need to do something and don't want to refinish the whole piece. I love the color and sheen on the existing finish, so just want to do something that minimizes the damage and protects the piece going forward.
I spend HOURS this week researching products that might work and had just about given up (every time I found one that sounded good I would do more research and find people complaining about the formula changing, or a certain ingredient being bad for wood long term, or too strong-smelling--read high VOC--to use indoors, and it would be back to the computer to keep researching). Then I found your page and these products sound perfect! But I am such a novice I don't know if I should put the hard wax oil over the existing finish and then use the beeswax or just use the beeswax. . . ? Can you please advise what you recommend people do when the piece is overall finished (and I don't know what kind of finish it has--clearly not poly though) and needs a touch-up? Thank you!
Thank you. The best thing to do first, Is just use our beeswax polish.
Keep it simple. Theres no need to apply anything else at this stage. the polish may be all you need and you are not going to
do any damage by using it. Take a look at our website and read the reviews. I think it will help you.
kind regards Simon
@@GilboysRestoration OK that may have seemed self-explanatory to you but it was very helpful to me! I ordered kits from your site last week and am looking forward to trying them : )
Hi Gilboys If I Was To Use A Water Based Stain Can I Still Apply Hard Wax Oil Over The Top. Many Thanks Adam Ps I Just Think Your Product Are Fantastic
Hi Ad.
Yes you can ✅ And thank you.☺️
I'm sure the hard wax oil in California would have a cancer warning, because the paper or the ink on the paper, the container, the wax, the bees, you named they will find something :))))
Thanks for the video, great breakdown of the various finishes available. One thing I'd say is that you're using oak veneer rather than solid wood, so the oil products are going to struggle as there's simply no "meat on the bone" for them to soak into? I'm far from the pro that you are, but the times I've used oil finishes they've gone off reasonably quickly on solid wood products (although I'd also admit they were yearly applications to bone dry, sun cooked wood, so.... Sponge City! ;p)
Hi. Hard wax oil works very well on veneer.
Unlike traditional oils like, Danish, Tung, Teak etc. Hard Wax Oils don't penetrate anywhere near as deep into the wood. They bond with the top surface of the wood and immediately start drying. Its one of the many positives of using them. It's also one of the many reasons why I really like them. 🙂
Kind regards
Simon
Overall Stephen, I cannot disagree with your observations re these various finishes. For myself, I too love using shellac/french polish and have used this on all the antiques and antique joinery In my homes. It’s my go to finish. I absolutely agree that with table tops that are likely to have hot drinks or even cold drinks etc it’s not so practical but I can live with this.
I am yet to try it out but I do know of a product out here from a supplier called hard shellac (not sure exactly what it is) that apparently is more resistant/durable to exposure from heat and water.
Out here in Australia, there was a company (Feast Watson) that used to produce a tung oil/poly finish which was absolutely brilliant to use and over the years I used it on all my floors, some joinery and bench tops in the kitchen/bathroom. Heat and water never caused this finish any issues, and if damaged or worn it was easy to repair. Alas for some reason they have stopped making this finish.
I recently finished some kitchen bench tops and shelving using a oil based product (Livos Kunos countertop oil). The client wanted me to use this, and it was slow drying but after 5 coats it gave a reasonable satin finish which hopefully will be durable. Did I like it though, no. I personally won’t use finishes like linseed, danish, orange oil etc as I have never had good results with any of these and yes the drying time between coats is such a pain.
The hard wax oil is a product I have yet to try but given your comments on this, I think I am going to have to try it out. So given this, do you need to sand back between coats to achieve a good finish and if you apply multiple coats say at a minimum of 3-4, will it always stay satin or with increasing numbers of coats will it result in a level of gloss ??
Recently, I have been doing a lot of wood refinishing on boats and in this environment given the exposure to UV, salt water etc, the whole issue re which wood finish product to use is once again a vexed question. So many different finish products out there but questionable durability to consider and differing opinions/experiences with them.
Hi David
Thank you for all your comments and observations. You are right though, it is a minefield when it comes to the choice of finishes.
I was introduced to Hard Wax Oil about 8 years ago by an interior designer who wanted us to apply it on one their pieces of furniture. Over time I realised that this product was quite extraordinary in its performance.
For years and years we had been using two pack, acid catalysed melamine lacquer for high traffic (modern) dining tables and coffee tables etc.
But here was a product that you could just wipe on and re-coat within 8 hours or so. It not only looks better because its not a high build film coating, it also performs at the same high level of hardness and wear. And, And! It also didn't require the person applying it to be dressed up like a spaceman to use it. WOW!
I honestly could pour the same product into a number of tins and rename it....
1) Kitchen Worktop Oil
2) Door Oil
3) Slip Resistant Floor Oil
4) Staircase Oil ( including Treads, risers spindles and handrails)
5) Table Top Oil
6) Food Safe Oil for Wood
7) Toy Safe Wood Oil
Because it is all of these things.
Durability is always a question, but with these oils they can easily be spot repaired, - (by anyone! 😳) unlike film producing coatings.
Bloody marvellous stuff. 😅
I do hope to have an exterior wood oil soon
Going back to your question. I tend to favour lightly sanding between coats with 320 grit or the equivalent scotch-brite pad.
The sheen level will always stay at smooth satin no matter how many applications. have a look here. 03:20 One, two or three applications?
Best wishes
Simon
@@GilboysRestoration Hi Simon, wow thankyou so much for your detailed response. It is so helpful and absolutely I totally agree that so many of the old finishes (poly, two pack etc) are so less environmentally friendly, let alone issues to one’s health due to the high VOCs one had to contend with. Having taken on board all you note, I decided given my latest project was the total refurbishment of a kitchen with timber doors, drawers, panels, let alone the floor, all of which was badly marked/worn etc that going with the hard wax oil is the way to go. I must say, like yourself I have found it easy to work with, it dries overnight, the grain of the timbers have come back to life and the overall finish looks excellent. So thankyou, your latest video and your above comments are so much appreciated. Yes, I concur the finish regardless of coats remains satin, but that is nice. I can actually obtain a gloss hard wax here but having looked at the sample demonstration pieces at my paint shop, there didn’t appear to be much difference between satin and gloss.
I would be very interested on your opinion/experience with exterior wood finishes in due course as this is something I have to contend with for various purposes at home, let alone on boats etc.
I am rather confused about your hard wax oil, on your website it states "No Petroleum", yet in the Material Safety Data Sheet it states that it contains "Naphtha (petroleum)". How come?
Hi. Yes there is a very tiny amount in there.
When we had it tested by an external labelling specialists this year (2023). It was deemed so minor that it did not require any hazard statement in any way. It very important to us that it was a 'hazard free product' which it is. 🙂
I will talk to our web specialist and make sure that our website is updated. ✅
Kindest regards
Simon
With all the variety of finishes what do you recommend for cleaning with? Even store bought furniture finishes ?
Wishing I knew more about finishes prior to buying furniture. My mom’s go to was endust.
Hi Quest
The best way to clean nearly all wood finishes is by wiping with a damp cloth and and wipe dry. There's no real need to use anything else. You could add a little washing up liquid to the cloth if its a dirty surface.
I would like to develop and produce our own cleaner for people to use. Maybe a future product. 🙂
@@GilboysRestoration
That would be great. With a lemon or orange scent. Thanks
Is Hared Wax Oil suitable for wooden worktops with sink/water?
Yes. ✅
I have applied Danish Oil and I love your Rose gold wax. Can I apply it on top of the Danish oil?
Thank you. 🙂
Yes you can apply our wax polish over oiled finishes. ✅
Best wishes
Simon
We have oak work surfaces in our kitchen that have been oiled but it's not very good with water drips. Is it possible to apply hard wax oil over the top with just a light sanding or would we have to sand it right back to bare wood?
Hi Richard and Julie.
Good question. If the top has been previously oiled then ours should go over the top. Its not something I would normally recommend with nearly all the other finishes. But as long as the top is clean of any contamination (food grease etc) and its dry. then it should go over it well.
My advice would be to sand it with 320 grit paper and vacuuming off before apply a thin coat. Try it on a small test are first ✅
If it works well, then off you go 😁
Best wishes
Simon