Milwaukee Cordless Unboxing: M18 Impact Wrenches & Drivers
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 июн 2020
- Have you ever dreamt of buying every single tool to figure out which ones you'll like using the most? Me too! So that's exactly what I did. It's time to start unboxing and going through the massive pile of Milwaukee tools. I'm going to break this up into sections and try to compare like to like as much as possible. Milwaukee makes many different kinds, so we're going to unbox and go through all of them.
Milwaukee Tools at OG:
www.obsessedgarage.com/collec...
View All OG Products Here:
www.obsessedgarage.com/
For more insight into my life and business become a member of Inside the Hex: www.obsessedgarage.com/pages/...
Join Our Closed Facebook Group of Like-Minded Obsessed People: / obsessedgarage
Website: www.obsessedgarage.com
Podcast: obsessedgarage.com/podcast/
Facebook: / obsessedgarage
Instagram: / obsessedgarage
Everything Else I Use That We Don't Have At OG:
www.amazon.com/shop/obsessedg...
Stay tuned for more crazy! Авто/Мото
Just to put it out there the one key does add more features for the impact sets. I have the high torque 1/2” impact and I can go into my phone and set different settings to the 1-2-3-4 setting to limit the torque. This means I have a car lug nut spec that only goes to 80-100ft.lb instead of the 1400ft lb maximum. Also there is a lot of programmability for driving into concrete and it can ramp up and down variably throughout the concrete itself.
Yes, thank you! I have a one-key drill driver that I can set the max-min rpm, the ramp up speed and the torque limit. It’s nice for sheet metal screws that may strip out easily.
Agree one key is very useful
I'll spend my money to get a One Key version. In addition to the torque control, the geo tracking and remote disable features appeal to me.
I love my one-key 1/2 in high torque. i love the programmable features. thats the reason bought it over the dewalt.. I was hoping they would come out with a 1/2 in mid torque one key as well.....still waiting.
Yup - One Key version of the 1/2” seems like a no brainer for doing up lug nuts at specific torque settings.
The Surge spec is correct 450 IN-lbs (37.5 ft-lbs) torque. You are not able to use it or any other Impact Driver to remove lug nuts.
A question might be if the Surge has 450 in-lbs and the Gen3 Fuel Impact Driver has 2,000 in-lbs why would you choose the Surge?
Main thing with the Surge is being Hydraulic (fluid) driven impact which makes it a lot quieter under load. Also being hydraulic, the 450 in-lbs. is sustained torque (it has a flatter torque curve) while the Impact Driver has 2,000 in-lbs of torque, but it comes in torque spikes. In the end the Surge is able to drive screws with just as much power as the regular Impact with less ear damaging noise.
There are videos the explain this difference better than I just did if you want to find out more.
Also the Fuel 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench Friction Ring 2767-22 has 1,400 ft-lbs. of nut busting torque and 1,000 ft-lbs. for tightening torque **This one is newer**
The Fuel 1/2" High Torque Impact Wrench Pin Detent 2766-22 1,100 ft-lbs. of nut busting torque and 750 ft-lbs. for tightening torque.
I know it's hard to get everything perfect and correct on video. Just want to provide this info for those watching.
Keep up the videos. Love seeing the comparison.
Hah, nut busting.
I use my non surge impact driver to remove lug nuts.. its usually between 90-150 NM
Surge is a lot quieter and for some applications you don't need the extra torque. I bought the gen 3 impact but honestly the surge is probably better for my home DIY usage.
The Surge is meant for more delicate sort of things, for example drywall, electric work, That sort of thing. Also used mostly in retail, since you can’t make much noise in a mall for example. The non surge makes too much torque and is too loud for certain applications. You also have to take in consideration that if you aren’t used to such a powerful impact driver you’ll hate the non surge. I’m speaking from experience, I personally own both and I am used to the power but for instance my father isn’t, so he uses the surge.
The Surge sacrifices a lot of torque in order to be more quiet and have a smoother power delivery. It's definitely not the best choice for the hex-based driver unless you are looking for something with those specific benefits.
1:09:03 mistake were make, make sure you dont mix inches and foot pound. surge is 450 in.lbs. fuel one is 2000 in.lbs. the surge makes more sense on the m12 line up to me
The torque numbers are a bit apples to oranges due to the way each tool applies the torque. Surge has less peak torque, but each torque pulse lasts longer than a single impact of a standard impact driver. This makes the standard impact drivers better at running higher torque fasteners (such as lag bolts) than the Surge. However, if you are running lots of smaller fasteners like drywall or deck screws, then the Surge is plenty powerful and will be more pleasurable to use for extended periods of time. I personally went with the Surge kit, because if I need the higher torque to run lag bolts or something similar, I'll just grab one of my 3/8" square drive impact wrenches (M18 mid-torque, or M12 stubby). The standard impact driver makes more sense for someone who wants to be able to do both tasks with one tool.
While Jason is 100% correct Matt is 100% incorrect and he made the same mistake and both the M12 as well as the M18 lines.
The surge hex drivers have Foreigner 50 inch pounds of torque which is nowhere near what he was trying to imply they were capable of doing. it was making choices or suggestions on tools to keep or not keep based on his erroneous belief that the surges had these huge torque value numbers.
Hardest flex ever
Fr tho
Pro trick : you can watch series on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching lots of of movies these days.
The surge hydraulic impact DRIVER is 450 in/lb. The impact WRENCH tools are all ft/lb rated and used for a completely different purpose
This guy ain't the sharpest tool in the shed....but a tool non the less.
Thank You! But on the other hand, I guess everyone has to learn at some point in their life. Right? BUT... a 450 ft/lb 1/4" impact Driver would be a BEAST! And while we are at it. The part in question is not called an "Anvil" IF it is not on a Impact wrench. (technically not even then) But, like a blacksmiths anvil, it is the thing you hammer on. And the two parts are connected ...Anyway the wrenches "HEAD" or "Drive Head" comes in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" ect Example: "Hey grab me a socket wrench please." Sure what size head do you need? "Bring the 1/2 inch drive and the 3/8ths I guess."
The One Key feature on the M18 impact wrench is a game changer - only way to set the torque & speed for doing lug nuts back up. You could set to 100nm / 75 ft/lbs for example, then do the last bit with torque wrench for accuracy. Without being able to set the torque you can’t use it for doing up wheel bolts or else too tight.
I don't know about anybody else but I really appreciate it how this guy properly opens up the boxes without destroying them and then nicely puts them back. I don't have OCD but as a software developer I know the value and satisfaction of having "a place for everything and everything in its place".
Matt and the OG team - thanks for another great video! I've been holding out on upgrading my tools since I first heard you were pursuing Milwaukee. Can't wait to see what you choose to carry so I can start making some purchases.
I have both your #1 and #2 pick and I whole heartedly agree. The 1/2" will take lug nuts off super fast. #1 is my everyday go-to tool for driving screws and all sorts of household chores. I LOVE this series!
You don’t want to be using the 1/4” hex impact to be taking off wheels, even though I might do some light/medium torqued lugs and such doesn’t mean it’s meant for that. Those are for impact fasteners, removing small bolts, drilling etc. The times you add an anvil to do tougher jobs, when you left your other tool somewhere else, or if you need another anvil impact while doing work, otherwise you should be using the 3/8 1/2 impact for lugs and sockets. That’s what they were built/designed for. Few Milwaukee demo videos and you’ll see my point. Just trying to help out 👍🏻
I agree with the 6 you picked for sure. Very informative and interesting lineup. Although the specs are a tad bit confusing on some. It’s good to see all of you options before you pick something you’re spending good money purchasing. Can’t wait for the next video!
Matt, I've spent some time looking at the difference between the M18 Fuel 2853 vs Surge 2760. There is no typo with the Surge 2760 torque rating of 450 in-lbs compared to the 2853 rating of 2000 in-lbs. The difference is seen when looking at a graph or torque plotted over time. You will see a higher peak with the 2853 as noted in the specs sheet. However, the Surge 2760 has a sustained 450 in-lbs over time. So what is the difference? Milwaukee states that 90-95% of fasteners fall within the small-med category in which the Surge torque specs more than meet this particular demand. If you are finding yourself needing a tool for larger fasteners then the higher peak torque of the 2853 is a better fit. Just need to ask yourself how you plan to use this particular tool. So, if you go back and compare the M12 Fuel Surge 2551 vs the M18 Fuel Surge 2760, they both have the same sustained 450 in-lbs torque rating. Only difference would be weight, size of batteries, and of course battery capacity. Hope this helps!
The M12 Surge also has a reduced Impacts per minute compared to the M18 Surge which is why driving speed is reduced considerably.
I just keep waiting for these videos. Great content, I myself have just gotten into the Milwaukee line. Thanks for all the info and dedication!! Also, first thing you should look into is the collet issue on the m18 impacts. VCG Construction has some videos on it. The reason I haven’t bought one yet.
The collet issue on the M18 and the weight is why I'm all in on the M12 line. I do use M18 for OPE.
The collet issue is only on the gen 3 impact driver. The issue does not exist on the surge model. Right now i own the brushless model but with the current depot deals i thing I’m finally getting the surge and giving my brushless to my nephew.
Milwaukee is great! I have the Fuel Gen 3 2853-20 impact driver and it is an amazing tool. It is powerful enough to be used as an impact wrench for most applications, especially if you are working on a car - I can even do my lug nuts with it no problem. Recently picked up their V-Jaw pliers that are a copy of the knipex cobra pliers and they are fantastic!
The 7/16 is for Lineman, it use auger bits.
Drills into poles like butter
Love all the people who have knowledge on 3 of the Milwaukee tools and try to get mad that Matt made one mistake in going through 300 tools. He said at the beginning this is the initial unboxing, not the deep dive. Chill out people.
Matt I have 3 of the 6 you selected. The 1/4" hex great for small duty and around the house stuff. The 3/8" compact impact and the 1/2" high torque impact for all things auto. Those two have covered 100% of my needs from wheel lug to crank shaft pulley. Thought about the 1/2" mid-torque but the last two really cover all I've needed.
I think for most car builders, they can get away with the M12 stubby impact wrench with 250lb-ft of torque as well as a M12 fuel ratchet. The M18 impact wrench is mainly designed for tightening light poles and concrete anchor nuts. If your car parts require such high torque for loosening, it maybe a good idea to use a breaker bar to avoid wearing out the fasteners!!!!
Just what I was thinking. I have a big dewalt impact wrench which hardly gets used. But my M12 stubby 3/8” and 1/2” get a lot of use. Only very rusty nut and bolts need the larger impacts. I think Matt needs to re think how good the M12 stubbys are, but he should work that out when he actually starts testing them. Not sure why he prefers the 1/4 hex drives either.
While I use the M12 Stubby a lot, the M18 High Torque has seen it's fair use too. These are only torque ratings. I have my wheel lug bolts torqued to 100ft-lbs and the Stubby will take a few seconds to even start turning. The M18 turns it like nothing, it's just a lot easier on the tool. Then you get into higher torque items like axles and sub-frames and it's essential. That's not even mentioning when rust comes into play. All in all though I'm pretty biased as I love tools and am a bit lazy too.
I have the 3/8" Stubby and 1/2" M18 High Impact. I use the Stubby for most things on my cars but the 1/2" does come in handy for stuff like axle bolts or rusty bolts that the Stubby can't get off.
Your doing a great job going through all of the models. So many, and so much to learn. It’s fun learning about them with you.
Great choices. Couldn’t have picked better.
I'm pretty sure the 7/16 drive tool is aimed at linesman, hence why they have the lanyard and 12v hookup for charging. I think most quick connect holesaw chucks are 7/16 so it may be good for someone who does a lot of holesawing.
Simply awesome content my friend I wish you all the best with this venture you've tapped in to something never tried before & that takes gutts & wisdom I subscribed immediately good luck 💯👊🍸
I have been using m18 surge impact driver daily as electrician for 2 years. No problems at all its just perfect less noise than regular impact driver.
i been using it in a cnc lathe to secure tooling. going tru 2-3 4mm hex bit per year but saves me a ton of time and it's super quiet... never had to use the 3rd speed
One key on some of those impact wrenches you can program different torque specs for the different modes
The previous comments regarding the surge at 450 inch lbs. are correct. Lower torque than the standard fuel, but flat consistent torque delivery. the standard fuel has significantly more power and a smaller more compact design, but the torque delivery has a sharp peak. I’d be convinced Matt would want both in his cabinet and not ditch the m18 fuel 1/4 hex impact.
I think your choice of lineup is perfect other than taking out the m18 fuel 1/4” hex. Exactly the tools I pictured you choosing. However I definitely can see you wanting that tool almost as much as the surge.
surge makes more sense in m12 lineup
Btw I Love these videos and I love Milwaukee. Good stuff!
Awww, man! The M12 angle drivers! Grrrr. Oh nice... the pin vs ring discussion! Nice! The only thing I saw on the ring vs pin is that the rings have a relatively high failure rate and the pins almost never break. So you’ll eventually break the ring if you use it a lot.
‼️‼️ My Weekend Binge ‼️‼️
No 4
🙏❤️ Love from Scotland ❤️🙏
@Obsessed Garage i recommend you get the one-key tools as well. Or at least go into the added features that it offers. it makes the tools very customizable.
When would I need the 3/8" mid torque, I use my m12 stubby 3/8" for all suspension, and if I need for bigger jobs, I use my m18 high impact.
I purchased the 3/8" mid-torque to complement my m12 3/8" stubby. The high torque is overkill for almost everything on my 4Runner, and the added weight and size over the mid-torque made it not a good fit for me. I also can stick with just one set of impact sockets since both wrenches have 3/8" drive.
One key is more than tracking. I use it to set limits when the son and I are doing projects together
About the brushes.. I guess some already mentioned it but I couldn't find it.
The brushes are always in contact with the rotor and when electricity passes it starts turning.
The brushed ones tend to turn longer after letting go off the trigger and have a distinct whine to the spinning motor.
42:26
That bag is good, I'd keep it and use it to carry tools.
I believe if you want the highest torque that only comes in friction ring. That goes for most companies. Also you should be Able to put the sockets in not lined up with the ball detent lined up and not have to use a pick to remove.
Great rundown. I have several Milwaukee impact drivers. I got the brushed version as part of a kit from Home Depot which was on sale. Brushless is definitely the way to go. The brushed tool is a good tool, but it's the one that gets handed to my teenage kids when they "need" to use my tools. By the way, the compact batteries are great for quick stuff around the house or the flashlights when you only need to use them for a limited time. Im not going to knock any of Milwaukee's batteries.
I detach the belt buckle fastener from mine that’s the first thing I did it gets in the way!
Yep - I've removed every single one on my tools. Terrible things.
We need some more car content bro
His videos are starting to get boring 😥
Also the surge is much quieter because of how it drives in, Milwaukee advertises you don't need hearing protection while using it compared to a normal impact.
With the surge versions having hydraulic fluid in them, how long will the fluid last before I’ll have to service them?
My guy really living his best life
Matt, at time stamp 1:08:28 where you talk about the M18 surge impact driver. You mentioned you can put in a drill bit. This is actually what I'm wondering about. Since you can put in a drill bit into an impact driver (whether it be the standard or surge M18 one), what's the need for a drill driver or a hammer drill?
The 7/16 quick connect impact is for utility workers. Lines man for drilling through telephone poles.
Matt, more torque isn't always good. Let's say you tighten up your lug nuts with an impact wrench and use a torque wrench to get to your desired torque setting. In reality, your impact has already surpassed the torque setting you wanted and has overtightened the nut. They offer different torque ranges for different applications. Also, every bolt has a specific tensile strength which means driving it in with a huge impact with lots of torque could shatter the bolt.
Also, using a square adapter on an impact driver is okay every now and again but to be honest they can be a weak point. Always have an adjustable torque impact wrench in your line up and just use a step down/up adapter to the desired square" size.
Nice videos, loving them at the moment :)
Which is the best 1/2 inch package for solely removing wheel lugs? I'll probably aim to use this about 3x a year at the most.
The surge is for construction sites or similar applications. A lot of construction sites have a noise limit and impacts can easily pass the limit :)
The surge puts out 450 in/lbs
1:04:48
Mine have friction ring. I don't know who needs pin detent.
I have all "pinned" square drives, but either my pins are more rounded/less stiffly sprung or my impact sockets have ramps to the pin receptacle. Either way, mine all come off my hand without having to use a pick.
If I had to guess, your sockets are to blame. I bet the hole for the pin lacks any ramp to help with removal.
Of course securely locked sockets are probably a benefit to some, but my pinned stuff slides on and off, no problem.
YMMV
Generally why mechanics go hog ring. The ring is replaceable when it gets wored out 🤣
the hydraulic part is a kinda like a damper on the serge... that damper makes it super quiet for use on jobs in hospitals and places that are occupied and also makes it nice on the user when you don't need huge power... i wanna say the mid torque impact has 450 ft pounds and you can see the size difference between that and the serge to get it to that...
Great video Matt.
I only have the friction ring tools, however, from seeing that you need to push the detent in every time to remove the socket, it is definitely a far worse tradeoff, when compared to the slightly awkward installation with a friction ring (which you get used to). For that reason, I'd personally only offer the friction ring tools (as all of them are available like this) and also for general ease of use. Obviously, it's your final decision, but this is just my two penneth worth.
Cheers.
I would add to this, basically everything I've seen in an automotive shop is friction ring. Only draw back is they eventually wear out to being completely useless.
Ryan Nelson Luckily the ring is a replaceable part, and it’s only about £5
The pin would only need to be pushed in if it happens to be in the side of the socket with the hole. Other sides it can be pulled off same as the friction ring
I’ve had rings fall off. Never a problem with the ball detent.
Where can I get a catalog or find it?
The new HO (high output) batteries are the better battery using the 21700 cells. The older and inferior HD (high demand) use the 18650 cells. You were calling the new HO batteries HD’s ! Good video tho!
The big quick lock is probably for drilling concrete
I think the pin style anvil would be useful for a shop or team that had permanently set-up tools, if you had a dedicated wheel changing tool that you have to change between rounds or in a pit stop you would want zero chance that the socket comes off the tool
The 1/4 brushless impact driver is a beast it shouldn't be set aside because it isn't fuel it still is a really good tool
Your getting confused with the inch lbs vs ft lbs. Numbers are correct on the sheet, the surge 1/4 hex impact makes way less torque than the fuel 1/4 impact. The surge make longer peak torque number but not as high as the regular one. Both hex impacts are rated in inch lbs they won’t be in ft lbs. You just do the math to convert it. As far as the 3/8 impact, there’s no way a hex makes more torque than the 3/8 impact and up. The smaller the head/adaptor/collect/anvil the less torque it will make and more speed.
OneKey does more than just track the tool... You can program different torque specs.
Damn after watching this I feel like a peasant owning the brushed impact.
Im sure most everyone knows this but after watching some of these milwaukee vids I went to check out the set I purchased. I bought a 3 piece set and I always assumed they were all m18 brushless (1/2in drill drive, 1/2 impact and 1/4in hex impact) while they are all m18 only the 1/2 impact was the brushless. Just a heads up for anyone that may be buying these from somewhere other than OG. Also the batteries are just the cp1.5
So what I've learned so far is get the FUEL version of everything. Lol
Only way to do it.
Get makita. Milwaukee is overkill
they need to label the surge diferently, like how dewalt uses uwo because the surge is indeed 450 inch lbs, but it is sustained torque, it is engineered for fastening usage, up to maybe a 1/4 inch lag bolt, i have the makita 18 volt oil impact and the 12 volt surge, they both are the go to drivers for cabinets and even deck building. For heavier lags you may want a regular impact but the noise is much greater and much more vibration
I know your just starting out, but as someone who uses tools like these everyday, I feel like you need to try these tools out. At least the ones that are your top picks. That's pretty much the only way your going to find out what ones you like best and what might be the best overall.
The surge impact is kind of gimmicky, indoors it's nice for less noise but not worth the hit on performance. The m12 surge is probably just as good and lighter/cheaper. The m18 fuel impact is probably best overall in terms of performance, tasks it can complete but even it has pitfalls. The collet has retention issues with quicklok drill bits like self feeding bits. I believe 80% of people can make due with the m12 fuel version, I almost never use my m18 now unless driving lots of screws fast.
This cleared up all my questions, i think the 1/2” mid torque with ring is the one i want. If you were to have one gun as a starting point would you chose the mid or high? Only working on cars so I’d think the torque would be good enough on mid
Hi, I have the 1/2 mid-torque with friction ring, and it's an amazing tool. I haven't yet found a bolt/nut on my car which it hasn't been able to remove (although I haven't had to remove a hub nut yet!), but for lugs, suspension/brake components, engine mounts it's never broke a sweat. I'd say for purely automotive use, get the mid torque, as it is lighter and more compact so it is better for tighter spaces, such as between suspension components. FYI, I have the UK version (M18 FMTIWF12), which has the same specs as the US M18 2860-20.
I have basically every Milwaukee impact and I can do everything with the mid torque. Definitely would recommend it if you’re only buying one. It can easily do axle nuts on my cars.
@@izaakmakwana I've undone axle/hub nuts with my Dewalt Mid-Torque without much complaint from it. I imagine the Milwaukee will do just as well.
Great video! I think there was a mistake but it happens when recording a movie on so many tools :)
My choice is 2853-22 (2000 in/lbs) 225Nm over 2760-22 (450 in/lbs) . 50Nm
I will never exchange 2853-22 for 2760-22 ;)
Good luck!
Matt will you please sell the Milwaukee rechargeable torque wrenches? I’ve been trying to buy them for a while...they are impossible to find in stock.
43:50
That one's for...and bus mechanics.
I think M18 Impact Wrenches & Drivers r2 video is coming soon...
that is correct about the 450 inch pounds.. it was wrong on the m12 serge... they are much much less power than the non serge tools.. that is why they make both...
May want shorter anvil since an obsessed guy way want the long torque sticks for tightening, if you use it for tightening.
Matt you should know there are truckers out here that are very passionate about cleaning and maintaining their rigs that may happen across your videos. They may be interested in buying that 1" anvil impact for brake service work, I know I am.
1:10:23
Mine are 3/8. And I have 3/8 to 1/2...adapters.
The difference between pin detent and friction ring is.....The friction ring will be stronger less likely to sheer under extreme loads.
at 36:40 i lost the overview haha, with these you want the most powerful I suppose? But i will use these just to for lug nuts to get the rims off the car. And for bolts, nuts which are stuck.
I don't see the use of all these sizes and 3 different kinds of anvils. I don't follow why they made so many of the same basically. I guess those heavy-duty are for Trucks haha, and better be careful not to break fingers or arms haha. There is more?? you can use to as dumbells when you're not using them :D, but at this point, I don't know which of those to get anymore haha, this is ridiculous. Frictionring for sure. I'm not getting a pick to get the thing off, that's not practical. What you need for cars and stuck bolts is just the Surge and the one with the extended anvil just for lug nuts :)
. What are you gonna use the other 6 for? No need for the M12 ones either really. also it takes to much space as well for tools yo will never use?
I'd say the stubby 1/2" M12 is better than the small one 1/2" M18. And mid torque (for me) is not needed because those bolts or nuts that the stubby won't remove, the high torque will. Just my opinion.
i would pick a hexdrive m12 and a 3/8 m18 mid torque and a 1/2 m18 high torque
Everywhere online says 450 INCH pounds on the surge. May not be a typo?
Yeah its in/lb. many of the other non surge are much stronger. 2850-20 is 2000 in/lb for 30$ less
Info commercials ?
Is there an extended anvil 1/2 that makes 1400 lb/ft? The friction ring regular length anvil 1/2 makes 1400
Pretty sure extended anvil is only in the mid torque they designed it primarily for wheel removal
The hard cases are molded so they won't do any good but those soft cases with zippers would make excellent storage containers for miscellaneous items in my garage. If you're just going to throw them in the trash I would be more than happy to take some off your hands.
I would love to see what he paid Vs what I can get them for.
was that a small or large chris reeve?
It’s not a drill version it’s a speed for self tapping screws
And the surge came out after the fuel and you would want the fuel because after a while the hydraulic fluid Wears out
I have the surge and it’s not nearly as powerful as the standard.
I’m in the market for a new drill / driver for home use. Perfect timing. Will await your results.
Definitely take a look at the m12. M18 is more for larger project/construction
🤤 So much Milwaukee
One reason to get the M18 fuel 1/4 impact driver over the Surge would be if you were driving larger lag bolt fasteners for construction and it’s a bit shorter for tight spots. I own the Surge myself but use the regular fuel at work.
Great to see all of those impacts out. A few things.
The M18 Surge Impact Driver is definitely 450 in.lbs. The Surge is used for lighter applications, and is a lot more quieter. The regular Gen 3 Fuel Impact is the better choice for all other and traditional applications.
There is also a difference between the M18 Fuel 1/2" High Torque impact wrenches with pin detent and friction ring. The pin detent has less torque output than the friction ring version. The latter has 1000 ft.lbs. of driving torque and 1400 ft.lbs. of breakaway torque.
Friction ring is great for swapping out different sockets. I found that pin detent takes way longer to remove, because you need to secure a small pin or screw driver to go through the hole in the socket, to push the pin, and then get the socket off. I think the pin detent makes sense if you're in a manufacturing plant at an assembly line, and the equipment or machinery you're assembling needs a specific size nut or bolt to be put onto that particular product you're making, and it will be a repetitive task, day in, day out, where you don't need to swap sockets too often. In a shop, a friction ring is a must, 100%.
The extended anvil 1/2" impact is more ideally used for tire techs, but nothing wrong with using it for other applications as well.
The 7/16" Hex Impact Wrench is used for linesmen, who work for hydro/power companies when installing, maintaining, or repairing power lines on poles, and use 7/16" bit accessories, like drill bits and driver bits.
In regards to the M18 compact impact wrenches, I instead opted for the M12 stubby impact wrench, mainly because of the torque output is higher on the M12 than the M18. Specifically, I have the M12 1/2" Stubby with friction ring, and I love that thing! It compliments my M18 1/2" Mid-Torque impact wrench, and they're all I need when I'm working on cars.
This guy just lost all credibility with me when he went for the surge 2760 and disregarded the 2753.
Please explain, I have the 2760, does it just have more torque, is it superior?? Just asking
According to technical sources the surge is lower torque. If it works for your application great. There were already a lot of post stating this and I belive the 2 tools have different applications so you really shouldn't disregard one or the other. I would love the surge for it being smoother but for my use it wouldn't cut it because I nned the speed and the extra torque is part of that speed.
This is his initial unboxing. He’s going through every Milwaukee tool. He’s bound to make a mistake during the unboxing that he will correct in his deeper dives. I’m guessing you haven’t been around the OG community very long, stick around and you’ll see.
I chose the Surge over the 2753 as well. I have 3/8" square drive impact wrenches if I need the higher torque. I grab the Surge for screws and other fasteners that don't require a lot of torque. Less noise and vibration is nice when you are using it for an extended period of time.
If your driving in 3 inch screws or larger the fuel impact is allot faster than the surge
Surge is 450 in-lbs not ft lbs........
That would be one heck of an impact driver 😂😂
i have the M12 Fuel impacts , 1/4,3/8 and 1/2 Dr
2 Fuel Ratchets 1/4 & 3/8
m12 Fuel 1/4 Hex impact
m12 Fuel hammer Drill
m12 Dremel
i find the impacts not Rated 250 ibs.ft - poss 100- 150 ibs /ft ( 3/8 dr and 1/2 dr )
Im gonna win that civic... sorry everyone!!
Try the surge. Most people don’t like the performance.
You missed the 2767 High impact 1/2 inch is 1400 ft lbs not 750 as the 3/8.
You should check out ave's video's where he takes tools apart, it will give you a better understanding of what the tools are like beyond the marketing that's on the box
How much did this cost
The gen 3 Fuel impact is probably one of the best and worst impact drivers out there. Its got so much power and is such a great tool but the collet on it soooo bad. The collet just won't hold the bits in. Its aggravating when taking screws or bolts out and the damn bit slips out of the collet.
wait so why cant i buy milwaukee tools on ebay and warranty them if it breaks? does milwaukee ask for receipts or where i bought it from? if so ill just say home depot right?
I have a milwaukee store in my area and i walked a battery in there once they did not ask for any info like that they just went off the manufacture date on the batt took my info and i got a replacement in the mail a few weeks later cant say it would be that easy with a tool or if you were mailing in but they didnt hassle me with the one warranty issue that i did have
Matthew Dameron thanks