Oil Change 2019-2012 Super Duty Diesel 6.7L
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Oil change and computer reset on a Ford 6.7L diesel engine. This is the same process for all years 2011 and up. 2011 and some 2012 have a yellow poly drain plug but all other things the same.
EZ Drain Valve: amzn.to/2qrM5UM
EZ Drain Valve with hose nipple: amzn.to/2rHT0hk
Oil Filter for 6.7L diesel: amzn.to/2rKIWVk
Current list of Ford approved CK-4 oils: www.fcsdchemic...
I Worked for a big Company for 11years over 2,000 trucks in the fleet. I worked from a operator up to a superintendent. I always helped the mechanics any chance possible, each oil change a few of the mechanics would always run clean oil down before putting the plug in to help push all the old oil out of the pan that may contain any contamination. This allowed for all fresh oil to circulate through out the motor. I have carried this with me ever since. I have seen these trucks be put through hell and yet still run like a champ.
Never attempted to ever change my own oil. After watching this I feel pretty confident I can now in my 6.7 as well. Nice vid 👍
You can if your worried get the filter off first.I have had them so tight from the dealership were the just collapsed. People over tighten oil filers.A good band wrench and get it as far to the top as you can.That the strongest part.
Good video. I have one suggestion. This is something I have used for the past 25 years, changing the oil on my other F250 trucks. Before you remove the old oil filter take a punch or chisel and knock a small hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil in the filter drain out. This way you don't have to deal with a heavy filter covered in used oil.
Great tip! I've done this before but it's inconsistent. Sometimes it drains the tubes above and sometimes it doesn't. Can't tell what's different. It is guaranteed to get the oil out of the filter though, which is a plus.
I’m just a girl and after watching this video was able to change the oil on my 2017 250Super Duty. For the first time!
I had always paid someone to do it before! Thanks for making my life Easier! Love from Florida
Glad it helped!
nice 😀
No such thing as "just" a girl. Well unless you're on the Titanic while its sinking then maybe!
I like the replacement drain plug that accepts the hose. The easy drain. I use a scratch awl to poke a hole in the bottom of the filter. It eliminates the mess.
I'm not sure if you will be monitoring the comments on this video as it's a little old, but when removing your oil filter use a larger zip lock baggie to put around your filter when removing will keep the mess to a minimum. Just be careful not to let go otherwise it can be extremely messy.
When I change my filter, I put a large size ziplock bag over the filter and then I take it out. It saves the mess and you can still see what the filter is doing and don’t have to worry about dropping it in the used oil pan 👍
I've heard the same but haven't tried it myself. Any plastic bag that doesn't leak will do.
Ran a very similar product on my old 2007 F350, and then on my 2012 F250... never had a single issue with leaks of any cause so I put one on my 2017 F250 KR. I have loved having it on so much I have one on each of my vehicles now... the wife's, my two kids, and my Jeep Wrangler. Wouldn't have it any other way. You'll be very happy with it!
That's what I'm hoping for. The first oil change went off without a drip. So far so good.
After watching Cowlicks videos I've done all my own oil changes since new I've used Rotella T-6 and the Best Royal Purple filter....also I added the fantastic FOMOTO quick valve...
Another Cowlick exclusive indeed....humor me I change oil every 3500 miles....my 2017 F-250 6.7 is stored Winters and waxed often. I am blessed in retirement... again high five to Cowlick....
Rotella T6 is now approved for the Ford 6.7L. It's good oil. And that valve is really easy and works best when the oil is HOT. Drains much faster. Changing oil at 3500 miles is a bit overkill but to each their own. I'm with you in that changing oil and waxing often is just plain old fun!
I punch a hole in my oil filter and let oil drain out the filter before removing it.
I do the same for my 7.3. So much easier. I am wondering why ford changed the location of the drain plug to the side of the pan instead of on the bottom like the 7.3. Seems like it would leave room for crud to accumulate. 294k trouble free miles on the 7.3, but am starting to get interested in a newer truck. Hard decision...I love my 7.3
This is the way
Not the way I did it of course
Na...I like to remove it while screaming hot then drop it in the oil pan that’s already almost full...ah yes oil shower for everyone.
I was going to make a video myself , and just seen yours . Very nice and detailed simply put. great job, one thing I did not see coming ,or like may be the addition of the easy drain plug. great in theory ,but need to check oil with a mag once drained . there is supposed to be a small magnet on the tip of drainplug to alert of metal in oil from excessive wear or problems . thank you, I do not have to make video myself.
In March 2017, Ford recently came out with a new motor oil spec for the 6.7 liter diesel. It’s: WSS M2C171 F1. Unless the diesel motor oil you select states on its label that it meets this spec, you could be harming your engine. This last time I checked, Mobile 1 does not comply.
That's true. The oil used in this video was the last of my inventory of pre-CK4 spec. It was just plain CJ4 full synthetic. And yes, I don't understand why Mobil1 won't meet the Ford spec or why Ford won't approve it. Who knows? Regardless, I used Rotella T6 when I ran out of Mobil1 and have been since. All good.
Thanks , I used to change my Cummings fuel filter every other oil change . But it just cost 10.00 and took maybe 5 minutes. This ford cost 75 and will take a while to change it seems with 2 of them
I really liked those Drain Valves, but they always seemed to leak a little bit. When it came time to sell my vehicle, potential buyers were concerned about the leak, so I ended up putting the drain plug back in the last time I changed the oil before selling it. The leak was never much, but it was enough to get the potential buyers attention.
The early versions used gaskets and these now use O rings. No leaks and if they do it's a quick fix. I still really like them.
The drain valve for the oil looks good but could be better with a dust cap.
Why?
Over thinking it
I came to ask why as well.
@@raulm4529 it will fill with dirt/mud etc
Drain valve is handy, the oil drain plug has a small magnet in it, or used to, to catch any metal fragments in the oil. One check for early issues of engine issues. I know major flakes will be seen in the oil, point is to find it before it’s enough flakes to see in the oil.
This is the reason a magnet is placed on the bottom of the pan close to the drain valve. It holds the tiny wear particles before flushing. It's not as convenient as looking at the bottom of the plug but you can let the oil settle and see how much metal is in there.
Mobil tech services says that the Turbo oil you are using is NOT recommended for the Ford 6.7. Mobil said I should use Delvac ESP. Check it out.
That is true with the current Mobil1 oil. The oil used in the video was some of the last pre-CK4 and was actually approved for the Ford 6.7. Weird that Mobil1 won't certify for the Ford spec. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 3.5 years.
Awesome video sir just bought a 2012 6.7 f450. Little trick I learned from my motorcycles that have sideways facing oil filters punch a hole in the bottom or you can lightly drill a hole in the bottom at all that oil drain out of that filter before you take it off makes a huge difference
Great tip!
I know this is an older video, but I wanted to say thank you for sharing. I installed the EZ Drain Valve, and am quite excited to have an easy change next time. I am forward to more of your videos!
My valve is still working great. It drains really fast when the engine oil is HOT. Really slow if cold... ;)
@@EpicCowlick did you ever worry about the valve rusting or corroding at all from salt on the roads?
I've got various brands of CJ-4 oil sitting around, some I won't use anymore. Basically cause they're 15/40 and I use the full synthetic 5W/40 now. But they still find a use every oil change. After draining, and with the drain plug still out, I pour a quart of this still new oil through the engine and allow it to also drain into the pan. Flushes out the last of the black oil at the bottom of the pan, and keeps the oil you changed looking newer slightly longer. Yeah, it's still gonna turn black, but just not as quickly as before.
Epic, a couple of things. First, thank you for the very helpful videos. I'm looking forward to seeing the fuel filters changed.
As to CK oil, it did not pass the Ford tests--other viewers should proceed cautiously.
Second, I'm an old guy and only recently learned that the oil film on the filter gasket is to make the rubber slippery so it doesn't bunch. I always thought it had something to do with sealing (I guess it sort of does.)
Regards, JD in TN
I stocked up on about two years worth of CJ4. Hopefully this thing gets resolved by then. I DO NOT want to put a zero weight oil in this engine.
Yes sir it’s so you don’t pinch or roll the gasket or “seal” it does help in removal of filter later but piled gasket always more malleable than dry
@@EpicCowlick according to ford you can run 15w40 if you are above like 7* F I believe is what they say but 15w40 completely okay to run especially in hotter places in the US
@@ozzmann3217 yes but if you do that they recommend oil change every 3,000 miles per owners manual.
got to love the drain valves, makes changing the oil so much easier. Dont know who invented them, but some one is making good money from a very very useful invention.. Nicest thing about the drain is you put your little hose on the end and you can drain into the pan or some old jugs etc and take the old oil to be recucyled
Fumoto is the original maker. This EZ Drain model is a knockoff. I'm really looking forward to the next change to try it out.
Nice video. Very straight forward and helpful. Thanks for posting.
next time punch a hole in the used oil filter and let that drain out and then unscrew and it wont be as messy and also I would be using Motorcraft oil until the power train warranty is up.
The hole punching hasn't been working lately. Drains only the filter but not the hoses above. No need to use Motorcraft oil, it just has to be CJ4 spec and Mobile 1 is a premium brand.
Ford actually recommends that the new gen. 6.7 psd uses Motorcraft oil, check out powerstrokehelp on RUclips that will explain a lot more than what I can explain but in all honesty it's a lot of typing and I'm not up for that.....but beautiful truck you have and I can't wait for more videos you post on it
No problem. Thanks.
Ryan Starke my oil is changed by ford and they use mobile one as well.
i just picked up a 2017 F250 6.7 and my Owners Manual say's 15 quarts of oil
I put that value on my truck what a life saver. 2' hose to a 5 gal pale no mess for the pass 3 oil changes thanks for that idea. P.s. are u still doing videos
Glad it's working out for you. I have those valves on all my vehicles now. And yes, I'll make a video when something interesting comes up. Been busy.
When I change oil ,I have a 10gal. tote and take off the filter first letting it drop into the empty tote then drain the engine oil. Very little splash if any. I use Shell Rotalla syn.
just a small tip on your oil filter, poke a hole in the oil filter and drain it before you remove it. a lot less messy. good video, nice truck.
I've done that in the past but have kind of given up on it. Punching drains the oil inside the filter ok but there's still all the oil in the plumbing above the filter. Sometimes that drains and sometimes it doesn't. I'll have to try it again next time.
Thanks Last couple of times had my oil changed at the dealer and I questioned if they done the job got home and check the level and oil was just as black as before. I thought it would look clean for a few miles so I changed it this time just to see the difference guest I'm use to cars, this is my first diesel.
Diesel oil is notorious for being the same color as the depths of hell. Next time just pull the dipstick before you leave and you'll see glimpses of clean oil. That's your last opportunity until the next oil change. It's always going to be the blackest shade of black.
That’s A Nice Pickup!
Real question is with these stay in your car $30 oil changes are we even saving money ? I am a heavy equipment tech and I’ve always done my own vehicles services, but the oil alone usually cost more than the jiffy lube type places now days with their bulk oil and connivence? I ask bc I started sending my wife to get hers done at local lube place simply saves me some time and cheaper I believe .. still won’t let anyone touch one of my cars but myself I just don’t know if it’s cheaper these days good skill to teach your sons/daughters of course but are we saving anything or spending more to do the work at this point ? Love to hear from some of y’all out there who have looked at the numbers
The quick lube places are cheap, but they're setup to gouge in one way or another. Poor quality oil and always pushing some extra service or filters or something. The sign on the front of the building is never what it seems to be.
Any worries about road debris bouncing up and opening that quick release on the drain plug? I personally would be terrified about dumping 13qts all over town.
That question has definitely been on my mind. If you look at the position of the lever on the valve it's behind the oil pain and up a little bit. Pretty sure nothing is going to get up in there and unlock and turn that thing. These have been out for a long time and satisfaction ratings are high. Figured I'd give it a shot.
EpicCowlick I like the idea of the quick valve but I would worried about it developing a slow leak or something or someone opening it.. Do they make one with a threaded outlet? So you can put a cap on it to protect against leaks? I work around all kinds of valve and it WILL leak someday..
Spoken by experience. lol. Yes, I'm sure given enough time they can leak. Lots of people really like them though and I'll always have the OEM drain plug on the top shelf of the tool box. They do make some plugs exactly like you describe. They also have 90 degree hose nipples too so the oil can drain straight down instead of straight back. Lots of options.
Yes, I would worry about it if I did much off road work.
Amen. Run over a stump with some branches still on it and see what all can happen...
Would it be all right to poke a hole with an awl or something in the filter to let it drain out the bottom before removing it?
It doesn't hurt anything to do that. The problem is that the 2051S filters have a silicone anti-drainback valve that prevents oil in the lines above the filter from draining back into the filter. You can punch a hole and empty the filter but a bunch of oil is still held in the lines above. It's hit and miss. Sometimes you get lucky and everything drains through the filter penetration but other times it's not so lucky. Check my video called "punching the filter" for an example.
wanting to get a 2017 king ranch. love how detailed your videos are!!
You will absolutely love that new truck.
Your truck sits really tall so that you can get under it without ramps, makes changing oil a little easier. I had a Chevy wagon with the vertical filter way in the back, I always spilled some trying to get it out.
It's true and something I probably take for granted. It's nice to be able to slide around underneath without jacking it first.
always good entertaining.. haha.. cheers
Oh, I recommend safety wiring that quick change lever in the closed position. Avoid possible disaster, or sabotage.
I hear you. It's a little disconcerting having that thing so accessible. But that's the whole point of the valve after all. The valve has a pretty stiff spring and a metal indentation that the lever sits in. It takes a very specific motion to move it.
When it comes to cars like my Volkswagen they used to call for 5w40 but now the same engine for some strange reason calls for 5w30. It really isn't that strange if you know that the EPA has something to do with it, lighter oil to reduce fuel consumption. I always use 5w40 and never had any ill effects at all. A lot of times you can get away with using a slightly heavier oil and some people who do say that the engine runs smoother too. I am not sure if those ones made a switch to or from synthetic but they do say it runs smoother after that.
Nice video. It empowers me to do my own oil changes. I was thinking you would use teflon tape on those treads for gate valve but I know very very little about auto mechanics. I am a cabinet maker / trim carpenter and metal doesn't agree with me. Unless I am shown so I don't have to learn every step the hard way. Thanks again
Thanks, it's super easy and a big money saver. No Teflon tape necessary. The valve has a rubber o-ring built into it to create a leak-proof seal. You can just see it if you look closely.
Love the idea of the oil drain valve!!
What size for 2012 F250?
Oil flows smoother out of the containers if you have the cap as high as possible (in other words, handle down, cap up) because it lets oxygen back into the container, instead of it slopping out... could prevent a mess at some point in the future.
Pro tip. Thanks.
EpicCowlick You're welcome! I learned the hard way...
That's why they make the jugs that way.
Do you fill the filter then add 13 more quarts? Or measure what you put in filter then fill the rest of it until 13 quarts total?
I would be using Ford recommend motor craft oil too .
Thanks for showing us the process, sure helped.
What oil are you going to use after Mobil 1 starts adding ck 4 to their oil? Keep up the good work and take care. You have a bless day.
nice video. will be purchasing a 350 or 450 soon and wanted to know some good tips. the EZ valve is a nice add on. definitely will be purchasing it.
Never thought of getting a valve. Genius. Bought it. Thanks for the link.
No problem 👍
Is that drain plug only for a F250 or any oil pan. I have a 2006 Ford Explorer and wanted to put this on my truck.
They're available for most all vehicles of all types.
@@EpicCowlick Thanks for the reply. I went to their website and saw all the make and models and what sizes fits what so I ordered one.
Oil filters on 6 liter trucks are much easier and neater to replace. B.T.W. what mileage interval do you change your oil and filter. I decided that since it costs me at least $120 per oil change for the oil and filter I change my oil around 10,000km. I do light duty work so I think I am good.
I'm changing whenever the truck tells me to. I'm expecting about every 7,500. It was weird that the truck prompted at only 4,000 miles for this first one.
+EpicCowlick Thanks for the video. It would be good to know if the 4000 mile change is specified just for the first change. Is the 7500 mile interval a distance stated in their literature?
The 2017 has an "Intelligent" oil life monitor as opposed to the previous version. It can now factor in mileage, temperatures, time at pressure and even fuel dilution. This is not a complete description as there are other factors also. It was a surprise to get the change notification at just over 4,000 miles as I was expecting more. If you read the forums people are getting the notifications anywhere up to about 9,000 miles. Time will tell what my average will be but I'm expecting somewhere in the 7,000 range.
Thank you for the info. As I read other posts, I see someone saying he routinely changes at 5000 for the benefit of the engine. I have been reviewing the 2017 F350 with a Diesel as a replacement for my 3/4 ton gas powered truck. Is the amount and frequency of oil changes the largest maintenance premium of Diesels relative to gas engines?
I'm looking forward to more videos on the 2017 Ford.. I liked the train horn install on your last truck!
Using all the required specs on the oil and filter, is Ford allowing you to do your own oil change and keep the warranty???
2018 F-250
Just save your receipts and keep a record of your oil changes. Ford cannot deny your warranty if you change it properly on your own.
Hi there again.
From your knowledge, did Ford changed the required oil as you mentioned in the video?
You used the Mobil 1, are you going to do oil change and filter every 5 k miles or you recommend 10K based on the oil you used???
Thank you so much.
Great video! I gotta ask, how tough was it to move on from your 2011 Super Duty? I liked your customization videos and was 'mirin that Titan Tank and On-Board Air.
There was a little bit of anxiety letting it go. It was setup just the way I needed it but the 2017 gives me a chance to do it all over again. It's an amazing piece of engineering.
I got rid of a 2015 KR for the 17. I loved the 15 but something just kept it from feeling " complete". I drove all three major brand diesel's and the Nissan. The Nissan took less than a mile to dismiss. I can say in my opinion, this is the closest thing to a "complete" truck I've been in and FINALLY a 48 Gallon tank
I’m confused. You put one and a quarter gallons of oil in but that doesn’t equal 13 quarts. Am I missing something? Shouldn’t it be 3.25 gallons?
Those are 4 quart containers. Pour in three gallons plus a quart from the 4th container.
Got a part number for the EZ drain plug?
Great video and love the new rig. Why'd you choose to switch from Rotella T6 to Mobile 1? Just curious...
Back in the day, T6 advertised as a Full Synthetic but T6 was actually a group 3 syn/dino mix. Kind of bummed me out. Mobile 1 is a true 100% group 4 so I went back to it. Probably makes zero difference but who knows?
Interesting, I did not know that. I'm guessing you haven't noticed any difference in NVH or MPGs? What do you think about Ford developing their own CJ-4 + Modified Oil instead of adopting CK-4?
I'd be fine with that. When they tested CK-4 on the 6.7L they discovered accelerated wear and quickly told everyone not to use it. CK-4 has a lower viscosity and behaves like a 0W oil. Yikes! I went out and bought a couple of years worth of CJ-4 while it was still on the shelves in December so I'd have enough until this thing shakes out.
That seems right. I use 5w-40 which is all synthetic. Here in mn all gas stations are bio diesel unless u go to Wisconsin. So you cannot use 10-30 with biodiesel....according to the book 15-40 which is convention or 5-40 which is best for al temperatures and driving conditions. Love the videos
I really like the synthetics for it's much lower and higher temp ranges. We get below zero in the winter and above a hundred degrees in the summer.
HOLY SHIT OIL CHANGING IS TOOOO SATIFYING
Just watched your video and noticed when you wiped the drain hole off you rubbed off the O ring that was stuck on the pan you unthreaded the drain plug right out of the O ring
You're the first person to notice that! I put it back on the OEM plug later. Found it in the pan when I drained it.
thanks for taking the time to make the video I enjoyed it.
What are your thoughts on Lucas Oil - Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer and replacing 1 qt of oil with it? 2019 Power Stroke still under warranty.
I don't have any experience with the additives and use Shell Rotella T6 since Mobil 1 is not approved by Ford. The quality synthetics are really marvels of chemical engineering. Changing them at appropriate intervals is probably the best thing that can be done.
Yeah you would think I would have learned my lesson on my first attempt at changing the oil on my SD. The first time I wasn't expecting it to shoot out that fast or far 😀
The second attempt I was ready for the stream off oil but, I used the oil pan you said not to use and had another mess to clean up 😜
Now I see you video and think only if I had seen this sooner!!
Thanks for doing these videos. ~Allen
Lol, sorry. It's comments like yours that have kept me from personal experience!
GrillingNetwork™ has
Another tip is to put a freezer bag over filter after it it is loose.
IS it just me - or is that Mobil 1 (which is what i use in my other vehicles) not listed on the ford approved oil list?
Mobil1 is not on the list. The oil used in the video was the last of the old approved formulation. Can't get it anymore. I've been using Rotella T6 for the last 4 years.
How much liter of oil for Ford have duty 6.7 disal needs??
12.3 L
nice work. i'll do it myself moving forward , video gave me a wind of confidence
If you take a hammer and sharp punch and poke a hole in the bottom of the oil filter before you take it off, it will make less of a mess.
Check my channel for a video called "Punching the oil filter". Problem is, it doesn't work every time, maybe less than a third of the time. I gave up on that. It sure was great when it worked though.
Thks for the ez drain valve idea.
Did you have to go through a regen yet? Dud you have any dpf issues on your old truck? Great vid by the way!!!
Truck actively regenerates the DPF about every 250 miles. I had no problems with it on the previous truck. I wish we didn't have to have them but they are the future.
That easy drain doesn't look like it will let as much oil out as the factor plug.
That's going to slow things down a little. It probably flows half the oil.
Is there not a need to change the upper end oil where the fuel injectors are located like on the older diesels? It looked pretty intense...I'm planning on getting a new truck soon and was looking at the advantages of the new 6.7 compared to the last generation. Thanks, Mark
There's only one filter and it was shown in the video. The only thing in the engine compartment is the fill cap and dip stick. It's a really easy oil change. It's exact same for this 2017 back through year 2012. In 2011 it's the same except for a special plastic oil plug. You'll love it if you get one.
I see Ford got rid of that that plastic 3/8" driver drain plug that they had on the previous year 6.7 PSD.
+FROGMAN524 They only made the for two years I think. Folks must not have like them. I did though.
ford said you could continue to use cj4 until it's depleted but they have there own part number for the oil already
Yeah, they are supposed to come out with a final position statement in April. I stocked up on enough to get me by for two years.
Have you had any issues with the drain. Any leaks? Thanks
No problems at all. I've learned that it's best to change oil when the engine is at full operating temp when the oil is at about 190 degrees. It drains much faster through the tube. About a third the time of when the engine is cold.
How many miles do you guys change oil? I've always been a gas dude and change mine every 3000. I was told it was more for diesels.
I change when the truck tells me to. It's about every 7,000 miles.
We're can I go by that valve for the oil pan .the open & closed valve
What Mud Flaps are you running? and do you have any problem's with rubbing with your 37s
Looked like you did not have a gasket on your new drain?? I have the same one and there should be a green gasket.
This valve has an O ring instead of a gasket. If you look closely, you'll see it.
I remove the oil filter first into my empty 8 gal. tote then drain the oil . I find it less messy!
Did that on the last oil change due to a comment like yours. It was awesome. In 30 years of oil changes, I never figured that out. Hard to change old habits I guess. From now on, FILTER FIRST!
The 2019 6.7 liter owners manual oil spec is wss-m2c171-f1 but the cap says use API CJ-4 what to use ?
API CJ-4 is a general type of oil meant for diesel engines. Ford's requirements are specific for the high horsepower 6.7L engine and listed on the WSSM2C171F1 spec sheet. Notably absent is Mobil1's 5W40. Shell's Rotella T6 is approved and available almost everywhere. It's a good, relatively cheap oil.
Awesome truck! Really like them Toyo Tires u have on them. Did they already come with the truck when u purchased it?
I wish. These are Toyo RT 37/12.5.20. Ford puts Michellin LTX's on at the factory and those don't cut it for me. I have to have the off road traction and clearance were we go in the summer and for the deep snow in the winter.
Did the oil pan plug replacement also have a magnet? I know factory plugs usually do.
Good catch, the drain valve does not have a magnet. I placed a neodymium magnet on the pan right where the oil exits. It's a much stronger magnet and all that needs to be done is to remove it before draining. Any buildup will wash away with the draining oil.
Thank you for doing the video. When resetting the computer it just resets. Does it give you an option to set the number of miles to be notified for your next change?
After an oil change, the computer must be reset manually. The oil change warning is calculated based on how a person drives including idle time, percentage of fuel in oil, etc.
@@EpicCowlick thanks. Is there an average amount of mileage you get?
@@SteveK99Sub 18-19 highway, 14-15 around town, 10 towing.
@@SteveK99Sub I drive more in town and occasionally freeway. Avg for me is 13 after correction for the 37 inch tires.
@@EpicCowlick Thanks.. I was wondering how many miles you get between oil changes..
Do you clean your towels?
You don’t have to change the oil in a 6.7 until 7500 miles by the book but in reality it’s perfectly ok to change at 8500-9000 miles
Where did you get the drain plug?
I have a question about the Oil Life Monitor. Is there a place you can see where the Oil Life Monitor is currently at? Like 15% left? I have a 2017 F350 DRW Lariat. I have 6000 miles on the truck and have never got the alarm to change the oil.. Kinda making me wonder if my truck has the monitor.
The truck does not show oil life remaining on the standard screens. You can get monitoring software like FORScan or Torque Pro and use an OBDII bluetooth adapter to see exactly that and much, much more.
This new 17 will get a oil change every 5000 miles just like the rest of my diesel's in the past may be a over kill but better safe then sorry lol
I always change the fuel filters and the air filter when I change the oil on my Diesel engine
do you have a video on fuel filters change? and how often do you change yours i have a 2018 F-350 6.7 diesel
I'm getting close to the fuel filter change. Truck is at 23,000 miles and I think the message will come on at 25,000. I've always waited for the truck to tell me it's time to do it.
Nice truck, I'd like to add that filling the filter is more of a risk than it's worth especially since most filters center hole is the filtered side which goes right to the rods/mains /cam...if you must fill the filter fill the prefiltered side only in your case that'd been the outer holes . On a new truck like yours I would take 10 minutes and check all the fluids in the diffs t case and trans. Many new trucks come factory filled with the axles quite low on fluid up to a quart.
Because brand new oil isn't clean enough, and you prefer no oil to new clean oil? Buy better oil, dude.
They're great looking tires. Makes your truck look more aggressive! Truck looks even more ready to tackle them Dodge and Chevys. 😃
LOL. This truck is ready to tackle serious terrain! The Dodge and Chevy's can come along if they think they're up to it.
Would it make a difference to drive the front end up onto some ramps to aid in draining?
The oil comes out pretty fast with just the drain plug. Maybe a minute could be saved on the last 100 ml or something? Not worth the effort for me when it's so easy to move around under the truck as it is. The EZ Valve takes a full 20 mins to drain cold oil and about 5 mins when the oil is hot (195 degrees).
How did that new plug work? Is it a good upgrade?
It's super easy to use, just like you'd expect. I made a video of drain time if you want to watch it work.
Any concern with voiding the warranty changing your own oil? I bought an extended warranty and it says I have to have the oil changed by a certified ford mechanic. This has to be bs...
Ford says you need to keep a log or changes and receipts including detail on the oil and filter used to prove the oil change. The Ford extended warranty does not require that a dealership or other "certified" perform the service.
I believe it is against the law to require a dealership to change the oil to keep the warranty in tact.
Thnx man you just Saved me a Trip to the dealership on my 2017 Ford F-250 Platinum but still what other oil brand is good too.
C-Los Say-Go-Via Link to the approved oils is in the video description.
Could you show me link where Mobil one diesel oil is 100% poa. Cause all I have found is that Mobil one rotella t6 and basically all of them are highly refined base crude oil with additives.
And from what I can tell they are both base 3 with additives
That valve is a neat idea, but my luck out in the mtns middle of nowhere says otherwise
good vid. At What elevation do you live? Noticed cool mountains in the background in some of your vids.
4,500 feet above sea level. The mountains you see are 9,500 feet at the peaks.
What size wrench? That is the entire reason to watch not in the video
OEM plug is a 5/8 hex head. A 17mm will do in a pinch.
Am I the only dude who likes doing his own oil changes vs going to the dealership or lube shop
There's lots of us who prefer doing it ourselves. So many positives like not having to drive to the lube place and wait around hoping no one dents your door or strips the oil pan plug, it's cheaper, knowing it was done right with the oil I want, etc. About the only part I find a pain is taking the used oil to the recycler.
Its all these Platinum and King Ranch guys. Haha
@@danawf9925 not a king ranch or a platinum. just an 18 xlt here. for 120 the dealer does oil change plus tops off def. for 200 they do oil change top off def and change fuel filters. i used to do my own but i broke my neck a few years back and dont have enough range of motion to do it anymore. and plus i hate getting rid of the used oil.
What keeps road or trail debris from opening the valve and dumping your oil?
The lever is spring loaded and rests in a knotch. It takes a very specific motion to open it. I have them on all my cars now and love them.
do you always go by the computer telling you to change the oil? I don't drive my 6.7 everyday and sometimes it goes 6+ months before it says I need an oil change. Does the length of time of it sitting in the truck matter as much as the mileage?
wideopenmx850 the computer goes by idle and mileage dealer recommends going by that indicator
wideopenmx850 I have full confidence in the Ford engineers. Some folks change more frequently but I don't think it's necessary.
Did your F350 come with the tire pressure monitoring option.
Yes. Tire pressure is displayed on the dash for each tire.
Hey Epic ... dud you add 13 qts on top of the oil you poured into filter ?
Nope