I am happy to hear that Scarpa finally started addressing the last volume of the heal independently from the toe box. The Instinct VS is simply baggy in the heal for a lot of climbers. There is no easy way for even a cobbler to easily fix that issue on the VS. Hopeful this fixes that issue. If it does, i want to see another version but using the edge rubber vs the grip 2 for climbers over 150lbs.
rather than a narrower heel, i want a shallower heel. there so many people that i know that has the VSR WMN, but when they wear is, the bottom of the heel is not touching the shoe.... so there's an airpocket at the bottom of the heel. if they fix this, then i think many people would have found their perfect shoe.
I strongly disagree on the "it's only a little bit softer" for the purple in front of blue and teal. It's a LOT softer, not Drago or Veloce like but it's a 4-4.5/10 soft shoe in the midsole and the toe box. I'm used to softer shoes (Unparallel Souped UP is my go-to so Drago-tier soft) and these purples are the good middle ground imo. The blue VSR is known to be insensitive and stiff and the teal is an edging stiff shoe so yeah, this purple VSR LV are really what Scarpa needed imo. I tried 3 sizes, I'm a 41EU and my best fitting shoes are the UP Souped UP (2nd skin shoe, absolutely fantastic), Mad Rock Drone 2.0 LV, La Sportiva Solution and the Skwama. I have duck feet (wide toe box), egyptian shape, with shallow and narrow heel so it's very difficult for me to find a very good fitting shoe for the heel and I have to say that these purple are surprisingly good and now in my quiver and will stay for a long time ! I keep the size 40 for the best "all rounder", if I had to put them for a project outdoor, it would have been 39.5. I did approx 6 sessions with them, indoors, sport climbing and bouldering and board climbing (kilterboard) and they just do everything with a lot of ease. The softness might be a bit too much for sport climbing on vertical/slabby terrain after few hours and I had a bit of trouble to adjust to the "not so pointy" edge (compared to my Sol Women) on overhanging/roof routes but that's a "me" issue. Overall I really like them but they are SOFT. And I'm a lightweight climber (55kg). They are close to the LS Python for the softness imo. Skwama are stiffer. Sol Women too. Tenaya Mastia and Indalo are also stiffer.
@@thess0414 i have the flagship pros and they are comparable in softness. the upper feels really really soft and thin and pliable, but not in a cheap way, compared to the VS, and the rubber is stretchier. The first wear they slipped on super easily and felt broken into even .5 size down from my other instinct and i felt like i could go another .5 smaller.
@@mesahusa I have the flagship pros but personally I prefer the normal flagships that got recently destroyed. Just looking for alternatives to them as the pros did not suit me as much (plus they are of horrible quality).
🗽 I am wearing the 2nd VSR... I'm happy with this shoe. For normal climbing I often even do not close the velcro. The velcro is the only thing I would improve! It wears too fast. Okay, one more criticism: The toe patch for me is a bit too stiff (very thick rubber). .
Wow, this sounds like it'll fix my issues with the instincts! Very excited to try. Even in the women's model I have air gaps on the sides of my heels but the fit is great otherwise.
It would be so amazing if the LV version would be the green color from the women'S version, I think it looks amazing and the LV might be the perfect fit for me. I don't mind the purple, but it is not my type of color scheme
Finally! I’ve got the orange instincts but find the heel way too wide and baggy so this sounds like it’ll fix my issue. But the toe patch break in was so brutal that I still may have to reconsider. It took me weeks to break in 😢
Real shame they've not adjusted the toe patch rubber from the main Instincts, it's the most painful toe patch to break in as it's so crazy thick and rigid with no real slits for flex. The Vapour S and Instinct S rubber are much more comfortable, and other brands like Unparallel have figured out painless high-performance toe patches.
i hate that they just went the lazy way. this was their chance to upgrade the toerubber to the instinct s model rubber. this would ve made the shoe feel newer and more upgraded than just a new colour
Own the VSR and tested the VSR LV. Would recommend same size. The LV really feels a tiny bit softer. I liked the new heel volume even more. So my peeling toepatch is no problem anymore and i also prefer the heel and softness. For my foot the new model fits better and i will switch when the old ones are finished.
Unfortunately the toe rubber still peels. Mine peeled on the first aggressive toe hook I did :(. Otherwise it’s a fantastic shoe, and I love the narrower heel.
I am happy to hear that Scarpa finally started addressing the last volume of the heal independently from the toe box. The Instinct VS is simply baggy in the heal for a lot of climbers. There is no easy way for even a cobbler to easily fix that issue on the VS. Hopeful this fixes that issue. If it does, i want to see another version but using the edge rubber vs the grip 2 for climbers over 150lbs.
rather than a narrower heel, i want a shallower heel.
there so many people that i know that has the VSR WMN, but when they wear is, the bottom of the heel is not touching the shoe.... so there's an airpocket at the bottom of the heel.
if they fix this, then i think many people would have found their perfect shoe.
Meanwhile someone know what's a lower volume version of a drago lv lol
I strongly disagree on the "it's only a little bit softer" for the purple in front of blue and teal.
It's a LOT softer, not Drago or Veloce like but it's a 4-4.5/10 soft shoe in the midsole and the toe box.
I'm used to softer shoes (Unparallel Souped UP is my go-to so Drago-tier soft) and these purples are the good middle ground imo.
The blue VSR is known to be insensitive and stiff and the teal is an edging stiff shoe so yeah, this purple VSR LV are really what Scarpa needed imo.
I tried 3 sizes, I'm a 41EU and my best fitting shoes are the UP Souped UP (2nd skin shoe, absolutely fantastic), Mad Rock Drone 2.0 LV, La Sportiva Solution and the Skwama.
I have duck feet (wide toe box), egyptian shape, with shallow and narrow heel so it's very difficult for me to find a very good fitting shoe for the heel and I have to say that these purple are surprisingly good and now in my quiver and will stay for a long time ! I keep the size 40 for the best "all rounder", if I had to put them for a project outdoor, it would have been 39.5.
I did approx 6 sessions with them, indoors, sport climbing and bouldering and board climbing (kilterboard) and they just do everything with a lot of ease.
The softness might be a bit too much for sport climbing on vertical/slabby terrain after few hours and I had a bit of trouble to adjust to the "not so pointy" edge (compared to my Sol Women) on overhanging/roof routes but that's a "me" issue.
Overall I really like them but they are SOFT. And I'm a lightweight climber (55kg).
They are close to the LS Python for the softness imo. Skwama are stiffer. Sol Women too. Tenaya Mastia and Indalo are also stiffer.
Do you use same shoe size in VSR and VSR LV? Also I feel like I can both smear and edge very well in the VSR, is the LV being too soft for it?
You make it sound like they are UP flagship soft?
If you have duck feet then try evolv shoes.
@@thess0414 i have the flagship pros and they are comparable in softness. the upper feels really really soft and thin and pliable, but not in a cheap way, compared to the VS, and the rubber is stretchier. The first wear they slipped on super easily and felt broken into even .5 size down from my other instinct and i felt like i could go another .5 smaller.
@@mesahusa I have the flagship pros but personally I prefer the normal flagships that got recently destroyed. Just looking for alternatives to them as the pros did not suit me as much (plus they are of horrible quality).
🗽 I am wearing the 2nd VSR... I'm happy with this shoe. For normal climbing I often even do not close the velcro. The velcro is the only thing I would improve! It wears too fast.
Okay, one more criticism: The toe patch for me is a bit too stiff (very thick rubber).
.
Wow, this sounds like it'll fix my issues with the instincts! Very excited to try. Even in the women's model I have air gaps on the sides of my heels but the fit is great otherwise.
It would be so amazing if the LV version would be the green color from the women'S version, I think it looks amazing and the LV might be the perfect fit for me. I don't mind the purple, but it is not my type of color scheme
Finally! I’ve got the orange instincts but find the heel way too wide and baggy so this sounds like it’ll fix my issue.
But the toe patch break in was so brutal that I still may have to reconsider. It took me weeks to break in 😢
Real shame they've not adjusted the toe patch rubber from the main Instincts, it's the most painful toe patch to break in as it's so crazy thick and rigid with no real slits for flex. The Vapour S and Instinct S rubber are much more comfortable, and other brands like Unparallel have figured out painless high-performance toe patches.
No pain no gain 😅
i hate that they just went the lazy way. this was their chance to upgrade the toerubber to the instinct s model rubber. this would ve made the shoe feel newer and more upgraded than just a new colour
I agree, the toe patch is too rigid. I always cut it with a sharp knife, but after a while it connects again.
.
Dude just climb dude
Try the Madrock Remora. Thats pain!
Own the VSR and tested the VSR LV. Would recommend same size. The LV really feels a tiny bit softer. I liked the new heel volume even more.
So my peeling toepatch is no problem anymore and i also prefer the heel and softness. For my foot the new model fits better and i will switch when the old ones are finished.
@@Phampham453 I would say no, the only difference i notice between VSR and VSR LV is the narrower heel width and softness of the shoe
are they same width as the VSR please? in the toe box area or are they narrower? thanks
@@tomhatcher1066 same in the toebox
We need the VS LV. I have a pair of VSR and VS, and my heel fits better in the VSR compared to the VS.
Unfortunately the toe rubber still peels. Mine peeled on the first aggressive toe hook I did :(. Otherwise it’s a fantastic shoe, and I love the narrower heel.
Please do a review of the Evolv zenist
When orange LV version?
Please Scarpa, extend the top rubber until the strap. Yep, 2cm rubber could bring happiness 😂
They only go to 45 in Germany 😢😢😢
Was hast denn du für Monstertreter?
@peterl0815 also normal 46 47 ich Straßen Schuhen 🥲🥲
@@maxmusterman2872 Alder! das ist schon ganz schön heftig.
Even Thor do bouldering now?
omg sit still