I've just taken delivery of the power flash, Brilliant bit of kit. the instructions and expected values section are so useful too! one question, should my driver demand value start at -5.00? if not, what could be the cause?
With the engine at idle, there's no load on the engine and engine speed is goverened by the idle routine and the current idle speed setpoint. The -5 mg/stk injection quantity, in the 0% column of the driver demand (throttle position) maps is there to prevent any (at rest) thtottle input, unintentially affecting the idle routine, and so only responds to throttle inputs when a throttle demand of greater than 0.10% is applied. I think that makes sense!
Would be good to hear your opinion of the best defender seats you have come across, cause I am sure your ass has seen more than every subscriber on here.😂
All raised air intakes / snorkels will cause a greater restriction to the intake air path, which ultimately will cost you in terms of power, and that includes so called "large" raised air intakes too. By increasing the length of the air intake, you're adding more resistance and that means the turbo has to work harder to suck the air in, which in turn increases exhaust gas temperature. You can monitor your AAP sensor using diagnostics, such as Power Flash, and you'll see how this sensor (located in the lid of the Td5 air filter box) will show atmospheric pressure with the engine at idle, and this figure should be very close to the inlet manifold pressure. When you load the engine, particuarly in the higher gears, and the turbo is working to produce its normal working pressure, you'll see the AAP sensor will show a light vacuum with the stock air box/filter setup. Add a raised air intake to this and that vacuum will be even greater. An engine consumes a lot of air, and obviously the larger the engine capacity, the larger the air displacement and this is multiplied when you add turbo boost pressure too.
I think a 2.5 inch system, tough out, is best for performance, from my homework. My D2 has the standard cat, middle box etc, at the moment. I do have a straight through 2 inch system, with a box at the back, in the corner of the workshop. So my question: is it worth fitting the 2 inch system, or wait to get a 2'5 inch system, instead? Just to clarify, the workshop is a barn that some friends and I rent to tinker with stuff we're interested in. It is not a commercial workshop, or anything, lol, also, mine won't leak a drop when it gets on your dyno!
The stock system is 2 1/2” diameter, although it does pinch up slightly just before the rear resonator. The standard sized exhaust is more than adequate for anything up to 250hp.
Excellent video, a land rover doesn't leak.. it's just marking its territory
Great Video once again , cant wait to come up and see you guys . Need to book it in👍
Another great video Stu, that 90 sounds superb.
Excellent video!
Top job guys 😊
Very nice 😊
I've just taken delivery of the power flash, Brilliant bit of kit. the instructions and expected values section are so useful too!
one question, should my driver demand value start at -5.00? if not, what could be the cause?
With the engine at idle, there's no load on the engine and engine speed is goverened by the idle routine and the current idle speed setpoint. The -5 mg/stk injection quantity, in the 0% column of the driver demand (throttle position) maps is there to prevent any (at rest) thtottle input, unintentially affecting the idle routine, and so only responds to throttle inputs when a throttle demand of greater than 0.10% is applied. I think that makes sense!
@@alivetuningltd I see! yes that makes sense thank you very much :)
Would be good to hear your opinion of the best defender seats you have come across, cause I am sure your ass has seen more than every subscriber on here.😂
Curious, does having a snorkel fitted affect the power at all? Or any differences between the ones with the cyclone type pre-filter vs without?
All raised air intakes / snorkels will cause a greater restriction to the intake air path, which ultimately will cost you in terms of power, and that includes so called "large" raised air intakes too. By increasing the length of the air intake, you're adding more resistance and that means the turbo has to work harder to suck the air in, which in turn increases exhaust gas temperature. You can monitor your AAP sensor using diagnostics, such as Power Flash, and you'll see how this sensor (located in the lid of the Td5 air filter box) will show atmospheric pressure with the engine at idle, and this figure should be very close to the inlet manifold pressure. When you load the engine, particuarly in the higher gears, and the turbo is working to produce its normal working pressure, you'll see the AAP sensor will show a light vacuum with the stock air box/filter setup. Add a raised air intake to this and that vacuum will be even greater. An engine consumes a lot of air, and obviously the larger the engine capacity, the larger the air displacement and this is multiplied when you add turbo boost pressure too.
I think a 2.5 inch system, tough out, is best for performance, from my homework.
My D2 has the standard cat, middle box etc, at the moment. I do have a straight through 2 inch system, with a box at the back, in the corner of the workshop.
So my question: is it worth fitting the 2 inch system, or wait to get a 2'5 inch system, instead?
Just to clarify, the workshop is a barn that some friends and I rent to tinker with stuff we're interested in. It is not a commercial workshop, or anything, lol, also, mine won't leak a drop when it gets on your dyno!
The stock system is 2 1/2” diameter, although it does pinch up slightly just before the rear resonator. The standard sized exhaust is more than adequate for anything up to 250hp.
Sounds like a sports car 😂
What's the highest figures you've gotten from a td5?
Our own Td5 90 runs at 320hp, which you’ll find videos of here on our channel.
@alivetuningltd 🤯🤯 that's crazy from a td5 lol ill have to give that a watch