Do not waste time responding to Boo-Berries on RUclips. They want to demonstrate why they feel a compass is the 'cats' pajamas', let them make their own video to prove it. Your Ticking Stick was BRILLIANT, and accomplished EXACTLY what you needed it to. You PROVED it.
You shouldn't turn the compass. That changes the radius of the curves by the distance between the compass points. The imaginary line between the two points of the compass should never rotate. Simple method to avoid having to approximate a shape is to use a larger compass so it can span that gap. Alternatively, you could tie a pencil to a pointy stick that's long enough to bridge the gap. Pencil tip goes on the edge of your material to cut, stick point touches the point that will eventually be against where the pencil tip is. Now just follow the contour with your stick and never let the stick rotate; keep it parallel to its original orientation. This method is used all the time by various tradesmen to scribe flooring, trim, paneling, etc to fit irregular shapes. It's far faster and simpler than the ticking stick when there is room to fit your piece up against the contour it needs to fit. The ticking stick is good for places were the piece can never fit until it is cut.
A simple way to demonstrate that you should not keep the compass points at 90 degrees from the shape that you are trying to copy is to try to copy a circle. If you keep the compass points at 90 degrees, then you will end up with a smaller circle. If you keep the compass points oriented in the same direction (any direction will do, e.g. North) then you will get a copy of the circle.
Hi Mike thanks very much for your viedo, it was very informative. I have only just came across the ticking stick method and i can see how it would have many great applications for accurate marking on awkward scribes for example. However, the demo you shown with the compass is incorrect, following the arc the way you did will result in a smaller arc drawn. If the compass starts lets say with the legs north and south and perpendicular to the workpiece then they must continue along the scribe the same and not follow the arc perpendicularly, they must stay north and south. I teach apprentices on a daily basis how to scribe trims to rough sandstone walls and see it all the time, the compass will be getting arced around bumps on a wall for example so in effect it will be reducing the distance between the two compass point and therefor producing an inaccurate scribe. If they are scribing a vertical trim down the side of a door that is up against a rough stone wall and they set their widest gap distance with the compass, hold the compass horizontal and start sliding it down the wall marking the trim, the compass must stay perfectly horizontal as they mark otherwise they are changing the distance between the compass points and the height at which the bump they are marking is at. I hope i have explained the example well enough. Dont get me wrong, the ticking stick method certainly has a place for me and i am keen to practice it more as i love learning new methods and gaining knowledge where i can. Thanks again for your video Mike
Thanks for the comment. Yes I agree that it would work as you have described. It would get a bit tricky going around a large cure and having to keep the compass in the same horizontal or vertical position relies on human perception and could lead to inaccurate transfer which does not happen with the ticking stick. If I was transferring a single sided shape then would us the compass down the side happily. Its great to get a discussion regarding similar methods to do the same job and choosing the one that suits a particular application. I appreciate you watching and commenting. Cheers Mike
If you are lucky enough to be gifted an artistic ability to be able to 'See' where the compass needs to go, and can do that. All good. For the rest of us mere mortals, the ticking stick is the winner on the day 👍 Cheers Pete' Hokitika.
The scriber/compas isn’t working because you must keep the line from the pencil tip and pivot point exactly parallel to the direction of movement of the piece being fitted, not square or perpendicular to the piece being fitted too. I do like the ticking stick too. It’s a very useful tool
You have gaps because you done it wrong! Firstly you need a bigger compass. You need a compass that doesnt buckle under the joint in the leg. Your compass seems to be from a childs geometry set! Then you open the compass to the widest gap and draw round. Its as accurate as a ticking stick and takes a 10th of the time. Find a cabinet maker, coach builder, furniture maker - he/she will show you how to do it! Youre doing it to find the most faults to justify your choice of the ticking stick. If the compass is inaccurate its you, not the compass!
Sadly you are wrong. By using the compass you are creating a larger arc than the original. Its a very simple concept. The size of the compass wont change this.
@@mikesworkshopadventures They aren't wrong. You should not rotate the compass to keep it perpendicular to the contour. If you draw a line between the two points of the compass, that line should always point the direction that you're going to slide the part after it's cut. In this case, that direction is "up" in the video.
@@mikesworkshopadventures He is not wrong. Your compass is creating the wrong-sized arc because you are using it incorrectly (it must be kept in the same orientation ... not at 90 degrees). And a larger compass makes it much easier to do that.
Do not waste time responding to Boo-Berries on RUclips. They want to demonstrate why they feel a compass is the 'cats' pajamas', let them make their own video to prove it. Your Ticking Stick was BRILLIANT, and accomplished EXACTLY what you needed it to. You PROVED it.
Thanks for watching. I appreciate your comment. Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers Mike
Use the tool incorrectly and you will get BS results every time, doesn't matter what you use.
You shouldn't turn the compass. That changes the radius of the curves by the distance between the compass points. The imaginary line between the two points of the compass should never rotate.
Simple method to avoid having to approximate a shape is to use a larger compass so it can span that gap.
Alternatively, you could tie a pencil to a pointy stick that's long enough to bridge the gap. Pencil tip goes on the edge of your material to cut, stick point touches the point that will eventually be against where the pencil tip is. Now just follow the contour with your stick and never let the stick rotate; keep it parallel to its original orientation. This method is used all the time by various tradesmen to scribe flooring, trim, paneling, etc to fit irregular shapes. It's far faster and simpler than the ticking stick when there is room to fit your piece up against the contour it needs to fit. The ticking stick is good for places were the piece can never fit until it is cut.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers Mike
Absolutely correct. Which makes the criticism of use of the compass absolutely incorrect.
A simple way to demonstrate that you should not keep the compass points at 90 degrees from the shape that you are trying to copy is to try to copy a circle.
If you keep the compass points at 90 degrees, then you will end up with a smaller circle. If you keep the compass points oriented in the same direction (any direction will do, e.g. North) then you will get a copy of the circle.
Thanks for watching
Hi Mike thanks very much for your viedo, it was very informative. I have only just came across the ticking stick method and i can see how it would have many great applications for accurate marking on awkward scribes for example. However, the demo you shown with the compass is incorrect, following the arc the way you did will result in a smaller arc drawn. If the compass starts lets say with the legs north and south and perpendicular to the workpiece then they must continue along the scribe the same and not follow the arc perpendicularly, they must stay north and south. I teach apprentices on a daily basis how to scribe trims to rough sandstone walls and see it all the time, the compass will be getting arced around bumps on a wall for example so in effect it will be reducing the distance between the two compass point and therefor producing an inaccurate scribe. If they are scribing a vertical trim down the side of a door that is up against a rough stone wall and they set their widest gap distance with the compass, hold the compass horizontal and start sliding it down the wall marking the trim, the compass must stay perfectly horizontal as they mark otherwise they are changing the distance between the compass points and the height at which the bump they are marking is at. I hope i have explained the example well enough. Dont get me wrong, the ticking stick method certainly has a place for me and i am keen to practice it more as i love learning new methods and gaining knowledge where i can. Thanks again for your video Mike
Thanks for the comment. Yes I agree that it would work as you have described. It would get a bit tricky going around a large cure and having to keep the compass in the same horizontal or vertical position relies on human perception and could lead to inaccurate transfer which does not happen with the ticking stick. If I was transferring a single sided shape then would us the compass down the side happily.
Its great to get a discussion regarding similar methods to do the same job and choosing the one that suits a particular application. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Cheers Mike
If you are lucky enough to be gifted an artistic ability to be able to 'See' where the compass needs to go, and can do that. All good. For the rest of us mere mortals, the ticking stick is the winner on the day 👍
Cheers Pete' Hokitika.
Appreciate your input. Cheers Mike
And the winner is....
Tick stick in this situation. Cheers Mike
The scriber/compas isn’t working because you must keep the line from the pencil tip and pivot point exactly parallel to the direction of movement of the piece being fitted, not square or perpendicular to the piece being fitted too. I do like the ticking stick too. It’s a very useful tool
Thanks for the comment. I agree but makes this quite tricky compared to the ticking stick and allows quite a bit of judgement error. Cheers Mike
Using the compass incorrectly, then declaring that the compass doesn’t work is disingenuous.
Thanks for watching
You have gaps because you done it wrong! Firstly you need a bigger compass. You need a compass that doesnt buckle under the joint in the leg. Your compass seems to be from a childs geometry set!
Then you open the compass to the widest gap and draw round.
Its as accurate as a ticking stick and takes a 10th of the time.
Find a cabinet maker, coach builder, furniture maker - he/she will show you how to do it!
Youre doing it to find the most faults to justify your choice of the ticking stick. If the compass is inaccurate its you, not the compass!
Sadly you are wrong. By using the compass you are creating a larger arc than the original. Its a very simple concept. The size of the compass wont change this.
@@mikesworkshopadventures They aren't wrong. You should not rotate the compass to keep it perpendicular to the contour. If you draw a line between the two points of the compass, that line should always point the direction that you're going to slide the part after it's cut. In this case, that direction is "up" in the video.
@@mikesworkshopadventures He is not wrong. Your compass is creating the wrong-sized arc because you are using it incorrectly (it must be kept in the same orientation ... not at 90 degrees).
And a larger compass makes it much easier to do that.
confirmation bias at it’s finest
you are scribing wrong - that’s why it is not fitting. compass should be kept in same position, not rotated.
Thanks for watching.
You're using the compass wrong. If you are going to do a demonstration, you should at least know how to do it correctly.
Thanks for that.