This is a very good explanation on how the brake assembly & cable work. I forgot the gas tank spacer, thanks for the reminder. You made some really good important information, such as the size of bolts. I know this video is little old, but still a very good video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.👍👍👍
Great Video, have to do the same repair and it helps a lot to watch the steps in advance. Just one remark for the DIY repairmen/women: Stay on the safe side and ALWAYS disconnect the spark-plug connector before working on the mower. The boss is an expert and knows when a particular job bears no risk to accidentally start the engine. For all the others: make this part of your start-to-work routine. Stay safe! Greetings from Germany! Andreas
You could have just replaced the cable like everyone else but I am so glad you went the extra mile. I am currently having an issue where the cable bracket gets stuck and will not engage enough to allow a spark. Before discovering this, I thought it was a fuel issue and bought a lot of unnecessary parts. You just saved me from spending hundreds $$$ on a new mower. I really liked the thorough information in an easy paced presentation. Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video! You confirmed my suspicion as to the problem with my mower. In my case, I had to use a hose clamp to secure the plastic guide/clamp to the side handle bar. The plastic clamp had become loose, which is no surprise after 9 years.
I rarely take the time to log in and comment but this video is extremely helpful and really well done. Thank you. A non mechanical buddy dropped off his 2 year old mower that wouldn't start because he left in old gas. Carburetor was clogged so pretty easy fix to clean it. But when I went to pull for a test start, the whole handle slid/collapsed down into the mower thru the deck and the brackets that hold it in place. He had removed the lower screws to bend handle to fit into his trunk but forgot to mention it or leave the screws for me! Now when I turn the blade I can hear a groan which I can see is likely the brake since the cable was pushed in along with handle. Thanks for the quick/clear explanation of how it should work. Hopefully an easy fix!
Great video! Up and running again👍🏻 You just don't know how much I appreciate that you spoke clearly, great lighting and close ups! Some of these other videos...🤔
Hello!! I too never take the time to log in and make a comment. But I just REALLY need to give you props for this video. I am having a few issues with my mower. Just the way you explained what you did gives me confidence to tackle those issues INSTAED of buying another mower. Well Done and THANK YOU!!!
Hi, thanks for your helpful video...I was able to start up and cut my lawn with a Lawnmower-Toro 6.0 HP Model 20010 after it sat in storage for 10 years...it started after 2 pulls...thanks again for video!!!
Good Job! Good script, good camera quality, good lighting. I recently replaced my old (9 years) stretched cable for about $8 delivered. Troy Bilt with Honda 160 CC engine. Gas Tip ... Small Honda Engines have narrow fuel "Channel; they DO NOT DO Well with Ethanol Gas. I had to replace my Carburetor and NOW use ONLY "Clear" Gas. (About $5 per gallon here locally, but well worth it. AND you no longer have to worry about "old" gas - or stroage over the Winter. NOTE: MOST dealers will NOT tell you this - they just like to charge over $100 to change the Carburetor. Starts and runs like a new Mower. Now I will check that the brake is being retracted properly. John in Portland, Oregon.
i have that same mower i bought at an estate sale except mine has electric start on it and i just piddled around with it on and off for over a year now and i just found out what the deal was just 2 days ago lol i wish i had seen this video a long time ago.. your way was a lot quicker than mine ...thanks its helped me a lot
Charles Hurley yeah agree, the way B & S has this start/stop/brake cable/device set up designed is a bit tricky (flawed, not straightforward). This vid helped me get on top of the problem!
awesome vid. I had atroy bilt w/ b&S motor taht have lasted me for over 10 years ,but last year I decided to change the blade adapter adapter that was chipped, but could only get the only one that was avail for my model which was cheaply made as the dimples sheared off as soon as I tried to start the mower. changed my blades and removed the adapter for years and never had a problem once I put to back on, but after putting the new one on it broke as mentioned above and then I couldn't start the mower. When trying to pull the starter cord it wouldn't budge or was clunky pull. suspect the brake was now engaged and this video helped a lot. thanks !
How lucky can I get!!!!! Toro mower is hard to start. Similar problems to your mower. Had the carburetor off several times and still no luck. You tubed several sites and presto chango ran across your site. Watched very closely and Bam!!!! Made the adjustments to the cable and Vaaaarrrrooommm it's running. Nicely done and thank you. PS. I HAVE SUBSCRIBED.
fantastic vid, been trying to figure out why my tecumseh 6.5hp wouldn't start and i'm now sure it's the brake/kill switch. can't wait to try it out and see if i can finally get my free ride on mower running.
Tecumseh kill switches and engine brake assemblies are far different than most Briggs. As an example, the brake shoe rubs the flywheel from the inside and not from the outside like the Briggs. They're nearly impossible to remove without the removal of the flywheel. The kill switches are different as well. The only thing common is that they both connect to the coil.
I bought a control cable for my mower that was supposed to be the replacement but it was too long. I ordered another one but shorter. It's better but I just noticed that contact still touches. I'll see if I can find something to make space like u did. Hopefully it works. Thanks. I know my cable isn't broken so I'll have figure how to rig it or get another shorter cable.
Great vid. Feels like the brake on mine is stuck after turning the mower on it's side to check the blade. Mine has an adjustable cable so hopefully an easy fix. Will report back!
Well done, nice clear presentation - gave me an idea for my own problem - consider using a bicycle brake cable adjustment nut for taking up the cable slack.
My cable is fine, but the bearing that allows the assembly to swivel has seized for some reason. Won't budge at all. Is there a solvent I can use to free and lubricate the swivel?
Zeus Carver the plastic cable housing end connects to the engine brake lever and moves when the bail is pulled due to the steel cable end on the engine being anchored to a engine mounted fixed bracket
Very well explained. Thank you very much, sir. My 1998 MTD lawn mower has a Tecumseh engine. I pulled the starter rope few times, without holding down the control bar. Now I am having problem starting the lawn mower. The cable bar is now not as tight and firm as it used to be. Cable seems somewhat lose as well. When I hold down the control bar, the brake mechanism (sleever?) does not appear to engage and appears quite stationery. Any advice on this issue is very much appreciated. Thank you.
You need to find where the slack is coming from. check the both ends of the cable where the metal goes into the holes on the control bar and on the engine brake. See if one of those is partially broken. If not check the black plastic sleeve that the steel cable runs through( from engine bracket to handle bracket) make sure it is not cracked and bending. if not then check the brackets that the black plastic cable casing ends connect to to make sure they have not bent inwards towards the steel cable mounting points. If not check to make sure the control bar handle is not bent to where it is hitting the handle grip before allowing the cable to fully disengaged the engine brake.. Thats all I can think of pertaining to the cables operation..good luck..
Is the wire connection normally open ( with handle released) or normally closed ? Does it just ground out , killing the spark when released ? Or connect a voltage to the coil when handle is actuated (squeezed up).
I have a old mower, 1993, it's a Briggs and Stratton mower, quattom xp, I bought a new brake cable for it, and it appears too loose, I had to take the spring off in order to make it work, if the spring is on, it won't start, when depress the handle to start, it seems like the cable is to long, what's my issue ???
Courtney Johns Honestly, sounds like you answered your question.. When you engage the handle bail it's not disengaging The engine brake far enough allowing it to keep the ignition grounded..hence, The "no start".. I would look at the bail and make sure it is in the right holes on the handle.. also check that it's not upside down or bent(I've seen that before).. If All is good there then you will have to modify your new cables length(kinda like I did in this video)... good luck 😁👍
jpwjaz I made that one BUT, you can buy them.. It is just like the end of a bicycle brake/shifter cable.. Walmart has the entire cable cheap with the ends that you can use...
Foxboss9 do you mind explaining in further detail or make a video on how the cable gets the lever to move? Ive watched this video repeatedly and searched the web, but Ive had no luck on figuring out how this works. my mower will work but the cable isnt moving the lever towards the mounted cable bracket when I pull the cable at the bail arm end. Im very confused as to how pulling the cable squeezes the lever. Like zeus said, it seems like the plastic would do all the work and Id appreciate a little advice lol. thanks!
Dallas Bixler Sure Ill try.. the steel cable end that attaches to the engine connects to a non-moveable/fixed bracket.. so as far as the engine side goes the steel cable never moves...the plastic cable housing attaches to the pivoting brake arm. when the operator pulls the bail on the handle the steel cable is pulled, but, it can't move since it is fixed to a non-moveable mount instead the plastic housing collapses towards the steel cable end to make up for the movement needed. now, because the plastic cable end is on a moving pivot arm, the brake is rotated away from the flywheel as it is on the other end of the pivot arm. ive worded it the best I can. I will look to see if I have anything here in the garage that might have that set up ...If I do ,,,,Ill try to shoot a video on it if you still need clarification just let me know..
Going to check this. (B&S) Self Prop'l Mower is 3 years old, looks brand new and only used to cut a small yard. Was running great. Put on a new carb, then a new magneto/coil & plug. Pulls nice with good compression. Video has me wondering if I even check the cable, I do remember there was a lot of film on the fly wheel. Got me thinking in the right direction! Any ideas?
1fastpitchforever If you have spark then this is NOT your issue. When you replaced the magneto,did you remember to set the air gap? Again, if you DO HAVE spark look elsewhere... For example, make sure engine output shaft is straight and that the blade isn't bent or that the blade hasn't recently been replaced... That is a sure sign someone hit something with the mower while running and most likely means that the flywheel key is sheered (makes the mower out of time)..watch my video on snowblower seasonal repair(I think thats the one) as to how I check Small engines for Spark,Timing,and Fuel delivery issues within minutes just With a can of carburetor cleaner OR starting fluid.. good luck..
Yes that's whats puzzling me on this one. Key and keyway -perfect, new carb, new maneto with gap set, new spark plug, going to check if kill switch wire is grounding out? Shaft not bent/regular wear on blade. Brake disengaging. I keep thinking I am making a continuous error and overlooking something everytime I look at that mower, and I must be. Still no spark.
after checking for spark and before I installed the plug, I gave it a shot in the head with some starting fluid, still no combustion, shot of starting fluid in the carb, no ignition. Originally that is why I bought the coil, thought maybe not enough spark?
What is the name of the spring your pointing at frame 6:39? ...I have a 1998 craftsman push mower 21" recycler its missing that spring. Sears does not have it anymore and I'm not sure what size to get. The space between where the spring would hook is 2".I appreciate your help.
flywheel brake return/tension spring...any real mower shop will be able to get that for you...you can use almost any small briggs engine to scavenge that off of as they were all pretty much the same spring...
Foxboss9, thanks for your helpful advice. I've been to able to get the engine running and the cable/brake are working fine. Yet I am finding that when I start the lawn mower, it seems to rev high and low (hunting and serging?) initially and then evens out after few seconds. So far I've changed the spark plug, cleaned out the tecumseh curb and changed the bowl "O" ring, and cleaned the air cleaner. Even though I have cleaned the carb, I have not changed any needle seat and or plastic emulsion tube's O rings. Do you think I should rebuild the carb to get rid of the highs and low in the engine when it initially starts? Your advice is much appreciated. Thank you once again.
And that is why Tecumseh went Out of Business... Tecumseh insisted on making their own carbs and they were not good. Do yourself a huge favor and don't waste the extra time trying to rebuild the carb. Just buy another one. They are not too expensive and rebuilding the one you are having trouble with cost half of what a new one cost if you consider your time worth anything. It's so much more rewarding just slapping on a new carb and know you'll have it fixed.. Before you purchase new though. Run a wire up through the main jet in the carb and make sure all visible passages are cleared of any obstructions. also check that the breather is clean coming from the top of the block going to carb(2% probability of issue). again good luck..
Foxboss9 I went out, disassembled to where I could get to the lever and try to move it. now i am really confused. I was able to move it BUT, it PUSHED FORWARD, does not pull backwards, like the cable would pull it backwards. Now, how do I upload the video I made to show you?
A way to shim [ @9:26 ] the mower cable end with a side-slotted metal spacer, effectively takes up cable slack (in this instance, due to defective cable adapter manufacture @8:40). This is another possible option, beyond unscrewing the connector/adapter ends to gain some SHEATH length, effectively shortening the cable WIRE. Good tricks to have in your mower maintenance/repair bag, though I am a little shocked that actually fabricating the needed metal cap would be cheaper than replacing the cable, as fabrication seems costly if you can't do it yourself & have to pay someone to do it! [4.26.2023]
Nice video. Im a bit confused as to the internal workings of the cable itself. It seems that the plastic conduit is actually doing the work, not the internal metal cable. One end of the metal cable is fixed to the engine (doesnt move) and the other end is attached to the bale arm. When you pull the bale arm you are only increasing tension in the metal cable not actually moving the other end, because it is attached to the engine. It also seems as you "pull" the cable you are actually "pushing" the plastic conduit. My guess is that the plastic conduit is designed to be too long for the space and normally be bent. When you increase tension by pulling the bale arm, the metal inner cable tries straighten the plastic and pushes it out. Is this how it works or am I missing something? Personally I would have designed it to have the end of the metal cable attached to the moving part of the spring.
The actual design of the engine and method with which the cable works, it differs from mower to mower. For instance, on a "Classic" Briggs, the cable moves inside the conduit, as well as on the new E series engines. This style in the video, where the conduit is what's moving, is the Quantum style, they seemingly held up better, the cables also from experience lasted longer.
I have a question that doesn't really relate the meaning of this video... I have the same type of engine but craftsman. The lever that comes up from behind the exhaust. does that attach to the choke lever that comes across to that side?
it is part of the thermostat controlled ready start system. heres a link to a closeup pic ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mr2cycle/2012-06-27_024142_thermo.01.jpg
it is part of the thermostat controlled ready start system. heres a link to a closeup pic ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mr2cycle/2012-06-27_024142_thermo.01.jpg
Very good video on ow to fix that cable. I have a question for you. I ave a craftsman mower, When I engage the control lever, the brake lever does not move. used this mower a week ago, and it moved just fine. I had to much oil in the mower so I stopped but today when I tried to use the mower (after draining some oil), the lever itself will not move, it did once or twice but never would start. I tried moving the lever by hand, would not move, tapped it some with a hammer, not hard but it does not move. This is a 917.379200, self-propelled mower. I spayed some WD40 but that had no effect. Any suggestions? Do you have a video on that topic?
Janelle Wolves Thanks and sorry I don't have a video on the problem you are experiencing. If your cable is intact and connected at the handle and at the bracket on the engine it should pull the brake lever. Make sure your cable casing(the black sleeve that the steel cable goes through) isn't kinked or broken anywhere. If you just recently had the handle bail removed make sure you reinserted it back into the correct holes on the handle. The lever that you tried to move by hand ( not gonna happen) it is a strong spring that requires channel locks or vice grips to move. hope that helps, good luck.
Foxboss9 The lever moved a few times, but when I actually try to start the mower, the cable pulls, but I dont want to stretch it so I dont pull on it that hard, I see it pulling. I disconnected it on both ends, and pulled to wire itself and it moves quite freely. So I put both back on, and in the right place. The lever itself is what is not moving. Last week I used it but for a very short time as I had put to much oil in it. IT was alittle hard to start but that was the first time this year I used it. Would seem like I could move it by hand as that wire is not that strong and it doesn't take alot of strength, when it is working to pull the control lever. Before I tried to use it today, I drained out the excess oil, last week didn't even go once around the yard cuz it was smoking and didnt want to mess up the mower with too much oil in it. It is strange cuz i did see that lever move once or twice,but I was not pulling the start cord, just moving the control bar.. Thanks for answering so quick.
Janelle Wolves If you can move the lever with a tool of some kind(pliers,vice grips etc) then I would revisit the cable ends and casing and where they hook up on the bail handle. Also, where the bail handle goes into the mowers push handle as there are different hole choices on both..... Make sure the bail handle isn't upside down or something simple that may have been overlooked.. But if you can move the lever with tools and the cable is in perfect working order then it should easily move the lever when connected properly.
Foxboss9 I made sure of where the cable was connected on the mower handle, when I close the control bar, it actually pulls the cable out of the hole it is mounted on, thats why I stopped trying to start the mower, feared I would stretch the cable, probably did somewhat already, but I did remove the cable on both ends, and pulled the cable inside the cover to make sure the cable was not bound up or kinked in some way. The odd thing is, last week, that was no problem, was hard to start at first, ( was the first time I used it this year), but it did start, I went around part of the yard, cutting the grass, motor ran find but then I started getting alot of smoke so I cut it off, put it up, and weed eated the whole yard. Yesterday, I dumped out the oil and kept checking the oil level, allowing it to "settle" and then tried to start the mower, which would not start or even turn over. I then started watching the brake lever, saw it was not moving, just the cable pulling so hard it came out of the mounting, then tried to move the elver manually, no joy, tapped it some with a hammer, lightly, no movement so I quit for the day, came in and started looking for solutions, found your video. Maybe just need to disassemble it and that that mechanism off and see if there is movement, that the actually brake can move, if not, guess I will just weed eat the yard all summer, again Lost my job, cant afford to pay to get it fixed, riding mower went down last summer, runs fine but when engaging blades it acts like it is being strangled out, so I guess I will end up weed eating the yard all summer again. The riding mower, a friend and I took the deck off, and went to a repair shop, bought a new belt and blades, came home put the deck back on and I guess that was done wrong because it never has worked right since, dont want to keep using it like that because it will kill the mower engine, and its a 1996, dont want to destroy it, Last year,I had to buy a new weed eater because a screw broke off that held a part on the carburetor and it got to much air, and I was told it could NOT be fixed so i bought a better weed eater and thats how I have been cutting my entire yard. Guess I'll do that until this weed eater dies, and then I guess I'll get me a goat! Thanks for the info and today I will take stuff off, basing it off one of your videos and try to fix it myself. If I get it working, I'll come tell you what i did, and you can try it at home cuz it will be based off what you have taught me already! thanks. If it does not work, I'll just tell you that and nothing else. I replaced the gear that engines the started on that riding mower a few years ago, figured that out for myself, as it would not turn over. Thats when I got new blades, a new belt, and I had already bought a new ignition switch. Big time do it your selfer since I have live now many yeas with a very low income and now will have no income in two more weeks, unemployment runs out then.
Janelle Wolves i posted this below in the wrong place. Foxboss9 ok I went outside, disassembled to where I could access this brake lever, and am now very confused. It PUSHES FORWARD, IT DOS NOT PULL BACKWARDS as the cable would move the lever. here is the link to the video I made so yo could see it. It moves one-handed. @1. In the video you can see me moving the cable inside the sheath quite easily. Where the cable attaches to the lever, you push it forwards, the brake comes off the flywheel?, not sure if that is what that part is called, but that opens the switch at the other end.
Making that little cable spacer was very clever! Today when I turned my mower off today it made a metal on metal noise so I took the plastic off and saw the brake pad had worn down to nothing. (6 year old Honda HRX) My mower has significantly more wear to the flywheel with maybe even a little groove. How much damage is too much to the flywheel? Are there any other wear items on a mower that I should be checking? This is a link to a picture of my flywheel if you have time. imgur.com/a/wYiWv
Наука
This is a very good explanation on how the brake assembly & cable work. I forgot the gas tank spacer, thanks for the reminder. You made some really good important information, such as the size of bolts. I know this video is little old, but still a very good video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.👍👍👍
Great Video, have to do the same repair and it helps a lot to watch the steps in advance. Just one remark for the DIY repairmen/women: Stay on the safe side and ALWAYS disconnect the spark-plug connector before working on the mower. The boss is an expert and knows when a particular job bears no risk to accidentally start the engine. For all the others: make this part of your start-to-work routine.
Stay safe!
Greetings from Germany!
Andreas
You could have just replaced the cable like everyone else but I am so glad you went the extra mile. I am currently having an issue where the cable bracket gets stuck and will not engage enough to allow a spark. Before discovering this, I thought it was a fuel issue and bought a lot of unnecessary parts. You just saved me from spending hundreds $$$ on a new mower. I really liked the thorough information in an easy paced presentation. Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video! You confirmed my suspicion as to the problem with my mower. In my case, I had to use a hose clamp to secure the plastic guide/clamp to the side handle bar. The plastic clamp had become loose, which is no surprise after 9 years.
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I rarely take the time to log in and comment but this video is extremely helpful and really well done. Thank you. A non mechanical buddy dropped off his 2 year old mower that wouldn't start because he left in old gas. Carburetor was clogged so pretty easy fix to clean it. But when I went to pull for a test start, the whole handle slid/collapsed down into the mower thru the deck and the brackets that hold it in place. He had removed the lower screws to bend handle to fit into his trunk but forgot to mention it or leave the screws for me! Now when I turn the blade I can hear a groan which I can see is likely the brake since the cable was pushed in along with handle. Thanks for the quick/clear explanation of how it should work. Hopefully an easy fix!
Great video! Up and running again👍🏻 You just don't know how much I appreciate that you spoke clearly, great lighting and close ups! Some of these other videos...🤔
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Hello!! I too never take the time to log in and make a comment. But I just REALLY need to give you props for this video. I am having a few issues with my mower. Just the way you explained what you did gives me confidence to tackle those issues INSTAED of buying another mower. Well Done and THANK YOU!!!
Hi, thanks for your helpful video...I was able to start up and cut my lawn with a Lawnmower-Toro 6.0 HP Model 20010 after it sat in storage for 10 years...it started after 2 pulls...thanks again for video!!!
Great !!!
Good Job! Good script, good camera quality, good lighting. I recently replaced my old (9 years) stretched cable for about $8 delivered. Troy Bilt with Honda 160 CC engine. Gas Tip ... Small Honda Engines have narrow fuel "Channel; they DO NOT DO Well with Ethanol Gas. I had to replace my Carburetor and NOW use ONLY "Clear" Gas. (About $5 per gallon here locally, but well worth it. AND you no longer have to worry about "old" gas - or stroage over the Winter. NOTE: MOST dealers will NOT tell you this - they just like to charge over $100 to change the Carburetor. Starts and runs like a new Mower. Now I will check that the brake is being retracted properly. John in Portland, Oregon.
i have that same mower i bought at an estate sale except mine has electric start on it and i just piddled around with it on and off for over a year now and i just found out what the deal was just 2 days ago lol i wish i had seen this video a long time ago.. your way was a lot quicker than mine ...thanks its helped me a lot
Great video thanks, after chasing a frustrating occasional not start issue this was it.
Charles Hurley yeah agree, the way B & S has this start/stop/brake cable/device set up designed is a bit tricky (flawed, not straightforward). This vid helped me get on top of the problem!
Awesome, man. Thanks. Just replaced the entire recoil pull starter assembly and this wound up being the problem
awesome vid. I had atroy bilt w/ b&S motor taht have lasted me for over 10 years ,but last year I decided to change the blade adapter adapter that was chipped, but could only get the only one that was avail for my model which was cheaply made as the dimples sheared off as soon as I tried to start the mower. changed my blades and removed the adapter for years and never had a problem once I put to back on, but after putting the new one on it broke as mentioned above and then I couldn't start the mower. When trying to pull the starter cord it wouldn't budge or was clunky pull. suspect the brake was now engaged and this video helped a lot. thanks !
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How lucky can I get!!!!! Toro mower is hard to start. Similar problems to your mower. Had the carburetor off several times and still no luck. You tubed several sites and presto chango ran across your site. Watched very closely and Bam!!!! Made the adjustments to the cable and Vaaaarrrrooommm it's running. Nicely done and thank you. PS. I HAVE SUBSCRIBED.
Thank you. You saved me from buying a new lawnmower.
Thank you!
Fixed my no start issue.
awesome thanks so much for the kill switch ground explanation.
fantastic vid, been trying to figure out why my tecumseh 6.5hp wouldn't start and i'm now sure it's the brake/kill switch. can't wait to try it out and see if i can finally get my free ride on mower running.
Tecumseh kill switches and engine brake assemblies are far different than most Briggs. As an example, the brake shoe rubs the flywheel from the inside and not from the outside like the Briggs. They're nearly impossible to remove without the removal of the flywheel. The kill switches are different as well. The only thing common is that they both connect to the coil.
I bought a control cable for my mower that was supposed to be the replacement but it was too long. I ordered another one but shorter. It's better but I just noticed that contact still touches. I'll see if I can find something to make space like u did. Hopefully it works. Thanks. I know my cable isn't broken so I'll have figure how to rig it or get another shorter cable.
Great vid. Feels like the brake on mine is stuck after turning the mower on it's side to check the blade. Mine has an adjustable cable so hopefully an easy fix. Will report back!
great video, looks like the Troy Built and the Craftsmen 6.75ex have the same engine set up
Well done, nice clear presentation - gave me an idea for my own problem - consider using a bicycle brake cable adjustment nut for taking up the cable slack.
Got it to work, but a bicycle brake cable adjustment nut is a bit big . . . a derailleur cable adjustment nut is probably a better (smaller) fit.
Excellent explanation! Thanks. I have some very long grass to mow.
thanks for the excellent video, saved me money!!!
+zmanvideo1 great!!
10/10 👍 this is gold! Thank you!!!
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My cable is fine, but the bearing that allows the assembly to swivel has seized for some reason. Won't budge at all. Is there a solvent I can use to free and lubricate the swivel?
Zeus Carver the plastic cable housing end connects to the engine brake lever and moves when the bail is pulled due to the steel cable end on the engine being anchored to a engine mounted fixed bracket
Seeing a video on the carburator works all the way to the engine would be a great video. Haven't seen a video like that!
Very well explained. Thank you very much, sir. My 1998 MTD lawn mower has a Tecumseh engine. I pulled the starter rope few times, without holding down the control bar. Now I am having problem starting the lawn mower. The cable bar is now not as tight and firm as it used to be. Cable seems somewhat lose as well. When I hold down the control bar, the brake mechanism (sleever?) does not appear to engage and appears quite stationery. Any advice on this issue is very much appreciated. Thank you.
You need to find where the slack is coming from. check the both ends of the cable where the metal goes into the holes on the control bar and on the engine brake. See if one of those is partially broken. If not check the black plastic sleeve that the steel cable runs through( from engine bracket to handle bracket) make sure it is not cracked and bending. if not then check the brackets that the black plastic cable casing ends connect to to make sure they have not bent inwards towards the steel cable mounting points. If not check to make sure the control bar handle is not bent to where it is hitting the handle grip before allowing the cable to fully disengaged the engine brake.. Thats all I can think of pertaining to the cables operation..good luck..
Is the wire connection normally open ( with handle released) or normally closed ?
Does it just ground out , killing the spark when released ? Or connect a voltage to the coil when handle is actuated (squeezed up).
It grounds the coil when bail is released
I have a old mower, 1993, it's a Briggs and Stratton mower, quattom xp, I bought a new brake cable for it, and it appears too loose, I had to take the spring off in order to make it work, if the spring is on, it won't start, when depress the handle to start, it seems like the cable is to long, what's my issue ???
Courtney Johns Honestly, sounds like you answered your question.. When you engage the handle bail it's not disengaging The engine brake far enough allowing it to keep the ignition grounded..hence, The "no start".. I would look at the bail and make sure it is in the right holes on the handle.. also check that it's not upside down or bent(I've seen that before).. If All is good there then you will have to modify your new cables length(kinda like I did in this video)... good luck 😁👍
Just wondering where you can get those split spacers you used to take up the space on the brake cable?
jpwjaz I made that one BUT, you can buy them.. It is just like the end of a bicycle brake/shifter cable.. Walmart has the entire cable cheap with the ends that you can use...
Foxboss9 do you mind explaining in further detail or make a video on how the cable gets the lever to move? Ive watched this video repeatedly and searched the web, but Ive had no luck on figuring out how this works. my mower will work but the cable isnt moving the lever towards the mounted cable bracket when I pull the cable at the bail arm end. Im very confused as to how pulling the cable squeezes the lever. Like zeus said, it seems like the plastic would do all the work and Id appreciate a little advice lol. thanks!
Dallas Bixler Sure Ill try.. the steel cable end that attaches to the engine connects to a non-moveable/fixed bracket.. so as far as the engine side goes the steel cable never moves...the plastic cable housing attaches to the pivoting brake arm. when the operator pulls the bail on the handle the steel cable is pulled, but, it can't move since it is fixed to a non-moveable mount instead the plastic housing collapses towards the steel cable end to make up for the movement needed. now, because the plastic cable end is on a moving pivot arm, the brake is rotated away from the flywheel as it is on the other end of the pivot arm. ive worded it the best I can. I will look to see if I have anything here in the garage that might have that set up ...If I do ,,,,Ill try to shoot a video on it if you still need clarification just let me know..
Going to check this. (B&S) Self Prop'l Mower is 3 years old, looks brand new and only used to cut a small yard. Was running great. Put on a new carb, then a new magneto/coil & plug. Pulls nice with good compression. Video has me wondering if I even check the cable, I do remember there was a lot of film on the fly wheel. Got me thinking in the right direction! Any ideas?
1fastpitchforever If you have spark then this is NOT your issue. When you replaced the magneto,did you remember to set the air gap? Again, if you DO HAVE spark look elsewhere... For example, make sure engine output shaft is straight and that the blade isn't bent or that the blade hasn't recently been replaced... That is a sure sign someone hit something with the mower while running and most likely means that the flywheel key is sheered (makes the mower out of time)..watch my video on snowblower seasonal repair(I think thats the one) as to how I check Small engines for Spark,Timing,and Fuel delivery issues within minutes just With a can of carburetor cleaner OR starting fluid.. good luck..
Yes that's whats puzzling me on this one. Key and keyway -perfect, new carb, new maneto with gap set, new spark plug, going to check if kill switch wire is grounding out? Shaft not bent/regular wear on blade. Brake disengaging. I keep thinking I am making a continuous error and overlooking something everytime I look at that mower, and I must be. Still no spark.
after checking for spark and before I installed the plug, I gave it a shot in the head with some starting fluid, still no combustion, shot of starting fluid in the carb, no ignition. Originally that is why I bought the coil, thought maybe not enough spark?
Enjoyed your video. The shim you used was purchased or did you machine it? Thank you very much.
Thanks, The shim I used was a bike derailleur cable end that I slotted with my Drexel.
this is a very important video to bookmark. it precludes a lot of wild goose chasing troubleshooting to no start issues.
very good video, helped to figure out my stop cable problem on a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower. Thanks!
Thank you, great! your welcome.
What is the name of the spring your pointing at frame 6:39? ...I have a 1998 craftsman push mower 21" recycler its missing that spring. Sears does not have it anymore and I'm not sure what size to get. The space between where the spring would hook is 2".I appreciate your help.
flywheel brake return/tension spring...any real mower shop will be able to get that for you...you can use almost any small briggs engine to scavenge that off of as they were all pretty much the same spring...
Foxboss9 thank you very much for your quick response!
CB Scott 👍😁
Thanks boss, a big help!
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thanks you for explaining everything and showing how its done so well. A big help!
Foxboss9, thanks for your helpful advice. I've been to able to get the engine running and the cable/brake are working fine. Yet I am finding that when I start the lawn mower, it seems to rev high and low (hunting and serging?) initially and then evens out after few seconds. So far I've changed the spark plug, cleaned out the tecumseh curb and changed the bowl "O" ring, and cleaned the air cleaner. Even though I have cleaned the carb, I have not changed any needle seat and or plastic emulsion tube's O rings. Do you think I should rebuild the carb to get rid of the highs and low in the engine when it initially starts? Your advice is much appreciated. Thank you once again.
And that is why Tecumseh went Out of Business... Tecumseh insisted on making their own carbs and they were not good. Do yourself a huge favor and don't waste the extra time trying to rebuild the carb. Just buy another one. They are not too expensive and rebuilding the one you are having trouble with cost half of what a new one cost if you consider your time worth anything. It's so much more rewarding just slapping on a new carb and know you'll have it fixed.. Before you purchase new though. Run a wire up through the main jet in the carb and make sure all visible passages are cleared of any obstructions. also check that the breather is clean coming from the top of the block going to carb(2% probability of issue). again good luck..
Foxboss9 I went out, disassembled to where I could get to the lever and try to move it. now i am really confused. I was able to move it BUT, it PUSHED FORWARD, does not pull backwards, like the cable would pull it backwards. Now, how do I upload the video I made to show you?
Janelle Wolves @1
Janelle Wolves @1 I cant post the link here for some reason, that is the name youtube stuck on the video
Janelle Wolves @1 maybe this time
of not one Cap P little j CAP j three CAP j CAP Y five CAPS n y y
Thank You. very helpful.
You are welcome.. Glad it helped..
good job have the same problem will do what you did
Where do get the lift , working on the lawnmower
Check out my tool review playlist I did a review on it
A way to shim [ @9:26 ] the mower cable end with a side-slotted metal spacer, effectively takes up cable slack (in this instance, due to defective cable adapter manufacture @8:40). This is another possible option, beyond unscrewing the connector/adapter ends to gain some SHEATH length, effectively shortening the cable WIRE. Good tricks to have in your mower maintenance/repair bag, though I am a little shocked that actually fabricating the needed metal cap would be cheaper than replacing the cable, as fabrication seems costly if you can't do it yourself & have to pay someone to do it!
[4.26.2023]
Nice video. Im a bit confused as to the internal workings of the cable itself. It seems that the plastic conduit is actually doing the work, not the internal metal cable. One end of the metal cable is fixed to the engine (doesnt move) and the other end is attached to the bale arm. When you pull the bale arm you are only increasing tension in the metal cable not actually moving the other end, because it is attached to the engine. It also seems as you "pull" the cable you are actually "pushing" the plastic conduit. My guess is that the plastic conduit is designed to be too long for the space and normally be bent. When you increase tension by pulling the bale arm, the metal inner cable tries straighten the plastic and pushes it out. Is this how it works or am I missing something? Personally I would have designed it to have the end of the metal cable attached to the moving part of the spring.
The actual design of the engine and method with which the cable works, it differs from mower to mower. For instance, on a "Classic" Briggs, the cable moves inside the conduit, as well as on the new E series engines. This style in the video, where the conduit is what's moving, is the Quantum style, they seemingly held up better, the cables also from experience lasted longer.
THANK YOU MUCH , VERY HELPFUL INDEED
SANG THONG 👍😁
I have a question that doesn't really relate the meaning of this video... I have the same type of engine but craftsman. The lever that comes up from behind the exhaust. does that attach to the choke lever that comes across to that side?
it is part of the thermostat controlled ready start system. heres a link to a closeup pic ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mr2cycle/2012-06-27_024142_thermo.01.jpg
it is part of the thermostat controlled ready start system. heres a link to a closeup pic ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/mr2cycle/2012-06-27_024142_thermo.01.jpg
great video thanks!! nice fix too BTW.
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thanks great video
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video on ow to fix that cable. I have a question for you. I ave a craftsman mower, When I engage the control lever, the brake lever does not move. used this mower a week ago, and it moved just fine. I had to much oil in the mower so I stopped but today when I tried to use the mower (after draining some oil), the lever itself will not move, it did once or twice but never would start. I tried moving the lever by hand, would not move, tapped it some with a hammer, not hard but it does not move. This is a 917.379200, self-propelled mower. I spayed some WD40 but that had no effect. Any suggestions? Do you have a video on that topic?
Janelle Wolves Thanks and sorry I don't have a video on the problem you are experiencing. If your cable is intact and connected at the handle and at the bracket on the engine it should pull the brake lever. Make sure your cable casing(the black sleeve that the steel cable goes through) isn't kinked or broken anywhere. If you just recently had the handle bail removed make sure you reinserted it back into the correct holes on the handle. The lever that you tried to move by hand ( not gonna happen) it is a strong spring that requires channel locks or vice grips to move. hope that helps, good luck.
Foxboss9 The lever moved a few times, but when I actually try to start the mower, the cable pulls, but I dont want to stretch it so I dont pull on it that hard, I see it pulling. I disconnected it on both ends, and pulled to wire itself and it moves quite freely. So I put both back on, and in the right place. The lever itself is what is not moving. Last week I used it but for a very short time as I had put to much oil in it. IT was alittle hard to start but that was the first time this year I used it. Would seem like I could move it by hand as that wire is not that strong and it doesn't take alot of strength, when it is working to pull the control lever. Before I tried to use it today, I drained out the excess oil, last week didn't even go once around the yard cuz it was smoking and didnt want to mess up the mower with too much oil in it. It is strange cuz i did see that lever move once or twice,but I was not pulling the start cord, just moving the control bar.. Thanks for answering so quick.
Janelle Wolves If you can move the lever with a tool of some kind(pliers,vice grips etc) then I would revisit the cable ends and casing and where they hook up on the bail handle. Also, where the bail handle goes into the mowers push handle as there are different hole choices on both..... Make sure the bail handle isn't upside down or something simple that may have been overlooked.. But if you can move the lever with tools and the cable is in perfect working order then it should easily move the lever when connected properly.
Foxboss9 I made sure of where the cable was connected on the mower handle, when I close the control bar, it actually pulls the cable out of the hole it is mounted on, thats why I stopped trying to start the mower, feared I would stretch the cable, probably did somewhat already, but I did remove the cable on both ends, and pulled the cable inside the cover to make sure the cable was not bound up or kinked in some way. The odd thing is, last week, that was no problem, was hard to start at first, ( was the first time I used it this year), but it did start, I went around part of the yard, cutting the grass, motor ran find but then I started getting alot of smoke so I cut it off, put it up, and weed eated the whole yard. Yesterday, I dumped out the oil and kept checking the oil level, allowing it to "settle" and then tried to start the mower, which would not start or even turn over. I then started watching the brake lever, saw it was not moving, just the cable pulling so hard it came out of the mounting, then tried to move the elver manually, no joy, tapped it some with a hammer, lightly, no movement so I quit for the day, came in and started looking for solutions, found your video. Maybe just need to disassemble it and that that mechanism off and see if there is movement, that the actually brake can move, if not, guess I will just weed eat the yard all summer, again Lost my job, cant afford to pay to get it fixed, riding mower went down last summer, runs fine but when engaging blades it acts like it is being strangled out, so I guess I will end up weed eating the yard all summer again. The riding mower, a friend and I took the deck off, and went to a repair shop, bought a new belt and blades, came home put the deck back on and I guess that was done wrong because it never has worked right since, dont want to keep using it like that because it will kill the mower engine, and its a 1996, dont want to destroy it, Last year,I had to buy a new weed eater because a screw broke off that held a part on the carburetor and it got to much air, and I was told it could NOT be fixed so i bought a better weed eater and thats how I have been cutting my entire yard. Guess I'll do that until this weed eater dies, and then I guess I'll get me a goat! Thanks for the info and today I will take stuff off, basing it off one of your videos and try to fix it myself. If I get it working, I'll come tell you what i did, and you can try it at home cuz it will be based off what you have taught me already! thanks. If it does not work, I'll just tell you that and nothing else. I replaced the gear that engines the started on that riding mower a few years ago, figured that out for myself, as it would not turn over. Thats when I got new blades, a new belt, and I had already bought a new ignition switch. Big time do it your selfer since I have live now many yeas with a very low income and now will have no income in two more weeks, unemployment runs out then.
Janelle Wolves i posted this below in the wrong place. Foxboss9 ok I went outside, disassembled to where I could access this brake lever, and am now very confused. It PUSHES FORWARD, IT DOS NOT PULL BACKWARDS as the cable would move the lever. here is the link to the video I made so yo could see it. It moves one-handed. @1. In the video you can see me moving the cable inside the sheath quite easily. Where the cable attaches to the lever, you push it forwards, the brake comes off the flywheel?, not sure if that is what that part is called, but that opens the switch at the other end.
Making that little cable spacer was very clever!
Today when I turned my mower off today it made a metal on metal noise so I took the plastic off and saw the brake pad had worn down to nothing. (6 year old Honda HRX) My mower has significantly more wear to the flywheel with maybe even a little groove. How much damage is too much to the flywheel? Are there any other wear items on a mower that I should be checking?
This is a link to a picture of my flywheel if you have time. imgur.com/a/wYiWv
Thanks for watching... That wear in your image is pretty typical and should not be a concern whatsoever..
Thank you!!!
Great job doing this video. Thank you
Good Video
+KB'S Small engine Repair parts & Service thanks
Good job
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I am trying to replace the brake cable, but the drive cable is also attached to it. I have a Sears model 917370610. Thanks.
You will remove the cable as I describe in the video at time marker 7:36 You can remove just the brake cable from the handlebar cable mount.
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I can't load RUclips is down.
still got spark, it should read, just no ignition of any sort
1fastpitchforever if you have good compression then it sounds like a sheared flywheel key or a stuck exhaust valve or broken camshaft..
Stuck valve, thank you!
1fastpitchforever 😁👍
1fastpitchforever oops...rvdaydream is my other channel..👍😀
I e been scouring the internet for the actual flywheel stop cable 92502-3101-01
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1862370420
Jesus, who are you making this video for?
60,000 views, read the comments.. Plenty of DIYers not many keyboard warriors though..