Thank you, sir, for the very informative video. I have a slightly different problem but with your information provided here it will be a snap to fix. Couldn't find anything else so brief and clear. Please keep 'em coming. GOD BLESS and Good Health to you and the family!
Thank you for the video, My kill switch lever that grounds the engine to the coil was seized plus the cable broke. I used penetrating oil to free it up. I priced the cable, it was too much ( I'm Dutch), so I put a light spring on the lever and kept it in the always on position. When I need to shut it off, I just manually move the lever to the off position till the motor quits, then release it.
It started without the ground wire! Any tips on why it is stuck on ground with the handle pulled? The break lever and everything functions find just stays grounded.
@@jll9764 Yes your cable might be stretched a little , try tying a tight knot in the cable itself , not the outer conduit , or just reach down while the handle is pressed and move the lever by hand , I had one that did that .....
Glad to have helped out , I know a guy over there across the big pond ... Micks Mowers go check him out and tell him I sent ya... He has way more videos than I have
Thank you! I just got a briggs engine last night that was supposedly locked up. The mechanism you just talked about was the culprit. I plan to just remove it as It needs no kill switch unless it wont shut off using the throttle cable. Ill know very shortly!
The stop switch ,#692310 is on my to get list next pay period. This has been an issue now for three weeks. There is little to no adjustment on this thing and it's become frustrating. Your video, however, did gove me some idea of the action pf the switch. Thanks. 🎉
Thank you for this video I found out that my cable was not zip tied to the handle bar so now the ground lever is moving and working but my lawn mower sounds likes it’s revving really high and it sounds really loud but I’m wondering if it’d the wrong coil because I had to google as this B&S 450 series is old and there’s no part number on the coil so I found one on the B&S site that works for my mower. I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be that loud or maybe I’ve had an old coil this whole time but it was all working all I did was just upgrade to new parts.
Thanks for watching , I hope these lil short videos help a lot of people..... I'm glad it help you out.... Yep your cable was stretched a lil or your bail handle is a lil out of whack..... Merci....
Man I Love it ! Thank you so much for the clear explanation. I mess with mowers all the time either mine or helping others out and yet I only have very limited knowledge. Sometimes I can help and get things going and sometimes not lol! With this info you just helped move my game up a notch 👍🏻 so I will be giving you kudos from myself as well as others I help when coming across this issue. God bless ya
I appreciate this video. I'm having problems with a new Briggs and Stratton and I'm hoping it's the kill switch. No spark. Coil ohm'd out ok but have no change of state at the kill switch
Yes I did make video a good while back and another updated one not long ago on the auto choke ..... I am doing a governor change out video since there are none on these smaller engines.............
No biggie Non'c Bruce........... I got the piston out and the rings are stuck ..... Hardly could see where the gap is on the top one...... I guess this engine will be a series overhauling it ..... Plus Tard Non'c
Great video that explains the engine brake. I have a B&S 6.5 hp that was running great one day and nothing the next - won't even fire with a squirt of starting fluid. Replaced the coil and plug - still nothing. Oil is new and fresh non-ethanol gas. Now suddenly while pulling the cord the engine will not budge. What is the next step?
Did you turn your mower over / upside down when draining your oil ? If you did you could be hydro locked .... You mentioned the coil was changed ..... Did you gap it with a business card ? Most biz cards are the correct gap for B&S mowers ..... Is it overhead valves ?
I have a husqvarna yth2046k. When I push the brake in to start it, it starts fine but when I let the brake out it dies. Is this a safety switch problem? I really enjoy your videos and learn a lot watching them. Thanks for all that you do for the wanna be mechanics.
My coil body is grounded to the block with the kill wire disconnected. What am I missing? The left screw to the could goes thru the plastic piece that rides next to the flywheel (what is that for btw?!) but the other has no insulating member.
Sorry for the late reply , between the power outage and a tree down plus getting the high tunnel outta here then cleaning all that up , I hadn't had time to check emails on this side of my you tube ...... OK first thing on your list ..... Coil does not need isolation from block ..... 2 that longer bolt goes thru that plastic piece , the other end goes to a lever that is moved by the heated bi metal coil near the muffler to move the choke , IF you have the EZ start model ....
Thanks that was a big help wasn’t sure why my wires were disconnected and now I know. Hopefully you or someone out there can help, I’ve got a b&s quantum Xm55 engine on my garden vac. It starts and runs fine after priming until the fuel from priming runs out, then it stops. I’ve tried a new carb, tested the coil , new plug and tried running with fuel cap loose but it still cuts out after 30 seconds or so ,I’m completely stumped. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching Mon Ami...... Are you in the U.K. ???? It seems that engine is popular over there ....... We don't have those down here in Southwest Louisiana .......Did you put a new fuel line on it as well ???? Those line come loose on the inside and act like a flap stopping the fuel flow , also a filter inside the gas tank can do that also or the connector on the tank is partially stopped up with grime ..... Let me know ....
That's great !! Just what I wanted to know!! Gonna have to do this tomorrow And Probably wire a kill switch if I can't get the stock one working. I was wondering what goes bad in a mechanical part as opposed to an electronic part. I know the brake can be bypassed and another switch put in. Is there any way to fix the one thats in there? By bending the metal to touch ?
If you are talking about repairing the brake assembly as one whole unit , that's what I would do.... I have fixed a few with a just a switch , here's a link to one I fixed , but already had a switch on it that the owner put on , this is a OLD school mower with no brake .... If you mean bending the metal to make the brake put more pressure , I am sure that would work.. ruclips.net/video/Yw1Av2nQgoA/видео.html Read the pinned comment that Miss Hollie wrote if you don't mind ...... Let me know how it turned out ....
@@Budro4764 Thank you so much! I will check out the links you provided!! I will let you know how it turned out 1 good thing is my lawnmower is a lot easier to work on than my Harley!! Lol
@@elliottnunez1057 Are you from Southwest Louisiana ?? My grandma was a Nunez , her grandmother came from Nova Scotia along with the other Cajuns / Acadians during the Grand Voyage , those Nunez's were from France instead of Spain .....She spoke very little english , we all spoke French in the house instead of english....
@@Budro4764 No, I am from New York but lest 20 odd years ago. My last name is Cuban, My Dad's father was from Cuba. His wife my grandma was from Sicily. My mom's side, are Irish, German, Dutch and Native American Indian. I'm just a mutt or Heinze 57 . lol Oh, as for the mower it seems the cable that goes to the handle and break/throttle? isn't pulling the metal tab far enough for the switch part of the tab to clear the bottom piece, grounding or shorting it out!! What I did was zip tie the cable a bit to the handle. It didn't tighten enough so I got a little steel bar and I push it the rest of the way, so it clears, no metal touching so it starts. The handle will then work! I mow the lawn let go of the bar, and it shuts off so the safety feature still works. just have to help that cable out a bit to start the mower. A new cable may help? Without this video It would've taken longer to figure out how that all worked together if I learned that fact at all!! Thank you !!
Naw it's never to late........ The block is the ground on anything such as a car , truck ETC..... When you make contact with the coil wire to the block it shorts the coil and cannot make a spark... Go Karts used to have a angled piece of metal bolted the head of the engine. When you wanted to stop the engine you put your foot on the metal and it would touch the spark plug and kill the engine...
Хобби
Thank you, sir, for the very informative video. I have a slightly different problem but with your information provided here it will be a snap to fix. Couldn't find anything else so brief and clear. Please keep 'em coming. GOD BLESS and Good Health to you and the family!
This video needs to be redone , it is shaky and out of focus .......
Thank you for the video, My kill switch lever that grounds the engine to the coil was seized plus the cable broke. I used penetrating oil to free it up. I priced the cable, it was too much ( I'm Dutch), so I put a light spring on the lever and kept it in the always on position. When I need to shut it off, I just manually move the lever to the off position till the motor quits, then release it.
That's a great way to do it , and cheap or free is always better , Thanks for watching and thanks for the idea .... Mon Ami
Thanks for the help! gonna try and isolate the issue by starting it without the ground wire. I was 100% sure it was the coil until i watched this.
It started without the ground wire! Any tips on why it is stuck on ground with the handle pulled? The break lever and everything functions find just stays grounded.
@@jll9764 Yes your cable might be stretched a little , try tying a tight knot in the cable itself , not the outer conduit , or just reach down while the handle is pressed and move the lever by hand , I had one that did that .....
Exactly what I was looking for,great job!
Glad it helped you out.... When I start making videos on this channel again they will be better quality..... I have tri pods now....
Man you really did a great job.
Thank you for sharing a valuable info.
great video ! THANKS !
Perfect. Sorted out my Mountfield ST120 a treat. I simply put a piece of card into the kill contact hook, and bingo! Thanks American bloke!
Glad to have helped out , I know a guy over there across the big pond ... Micks Mowers go check him out and tell him I sent ya... He has way more videos than I have
Thank you! I just got a briggs engine last night that was supposedly locked up. The mechanism you just talked about was the culprit. I plan to just remove it as It needs no kill switch unless it wont shut off using the throttle cable. Ill know very shortly!
Sorry for the late reply, I hope you are up and running again.... Thanks for watching ....
The stop switch ,#692310 is on my to get list next pay period.
This has been an issue now for three weeks. There is little to no adjustment on this thing and it's become frustrating.
Your video, however, did gove me some idea of the action pf the switch. Thanks. 🎉
Thank you for this video I found out that my cable was not zip tied to the handle bar so now the ground lever is moving and working but my lawn mower sounds likes it’s revving really high and it sounds really loud but I’m wondering if it’d the wrong coil because I had to google as this B&S 450 series is old and there’s no part number on the coil so I found one on the B&S site that works for my mower. I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be that loud or maybe I’ve had an old coil this whole time but it was all working all I did was just upgrade to new parts.
Tks Shortened the cable {knot} easy and quick works great Hard starter goes first pull now
Thanks for watching , I hope these lil short videos help a lot of people..... I'm glad it help you out.... Yep your cable was stretched a lil or your bail handle is a lil out of whack..... Merci....
Good explanation Booboo in Eunice!! Bon Appétit!!☺
Thanks Road King... Merci for watching also Mon Ami ~!~!
Hey boo. Good explanation👍
Thanks
Glad it helped , I need to make a new one without all the camera movement ...
Man I Love it ! Thank you so much for the clear explanation. I mess with mowers all the time either mine or helping others out and yet I only have very limited knowledge. Sometimes I can help and get things going and sometimes not lol! With this info you just helped move my game up a notch 👍🏻 so I will be giving you kudos from myself as well as others I help when coming across this issue. God bless ya
Thanks so much
I appreciate this video. I'm having problems with a new Briggs and Stratton and I'm hoping it's the kill switch. No spark. Coil ohm'd out ok but have no change of state at the kill switch
It wasn't the kill switch. Still think coil
we talked about that block style. (Choke). thanks again Boo
Yes I did make video a good while back and another updated one not long ago on the auto choke ..... I am doing a governor change out video since there are none on these smaller engines.............
@@Budro4764 I miist it was smaller sorry mon ami.
No biggie Non'c Bruce........... I got the piston out and the rings are stuck ..... Hardly could see where the gap is on the top one...... I guess this engine will be a series overhauling it .....
Plus Tard Non'c
Appreciate it
Hi I have Bri&Straton the issue when I release safety cable engines stop but 30 second the blade move make noise Please tell me what wrong Thanks
Great video that explains the engine brake. I have a B&S 6.5 hp that was running great one day and nothing the next - won't even fire with a squirt of starting fluid. Replaced the coil and plug - still nothing. Oil is new and fresh non-ethanol gas. Now suddenly while pulling the cord the engine will not budge. What is the next step?
Did you turn your mower over / upside down when draining your oil ? If you did you could be hydro locked .... You mentioned the coil was changed ..... Did you gap it with a business card ? Most biz cards are the correct gap for B&S mowers ..... Is it overhead valves ?
They say you learn something new everyday. I just did, THANKS =)
I have a husqvarna yth2046k. When I push the brake in to start it, it starts fine but when I let the brake out it dies. Is this a safety switch problem? I really enjoy your videos and learn a lot watching them. Thanks for all that you do for the wanna be mechanics.
My coil body is grounded to the block with the kill wire disconnected. What am I missing? The left screw to the could goes thru the plastic piece that rides next to the flywheel (what is that for btw?!) but the other has no insulating member.
Sorry for the late reply , between the power outage and a tree down plus getting the high tunnel outta here then cleaning all that up , I hadn't had time to check emails on this side of my you tube ...... OK first thing on your list ..... Coil does not need isolation from block ..... 2 that longer bolt goes thru that plastic piece , the other end goes to a lever that is moved by the heated bi metal coil near the muffler to move the choke , IF you have the EZ start model ....
Is it ok to override the kill assembly and just cover the intake with your hand to “choke” the motor out when shutting it off
I have a mower I just yank the plug wire off to kill the engine..... I use a air filter on mine to keep the dust out....
Thanks that was a big help wasn’t sure why my wires were disconnected and now I know. Hopefully you or someone out there can help, I’ve got a b&s quantum Xm55 engine on my garden vac. It starts and runs fine after priming until the fuel from priming runs out, then it stops. I’ve tried a new carb, tested the coil , new plug and tried running with fuel cap loose but it still cuts out after 30 seconds or so ,I’m completely stumped. Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance.
Thanks for watching Mon Ami...... Are you in the U.K. ???? It seems that engine is popular over there ....... We don't have those down here in Southwest Louisiana .......Did you put a new fuel line on it as well ???? Those line come loose on the inside and act like a flap stopping the fuel flow , also a filter inside the gas tank can do that also or the connector on the tank is partially stopped up with grime ..... Let me know ....
That's great !! Just what I wanted to know!! Gonna have to do this tomorrow And Probably wire a kill switch if I can't get the stock one working. I was wondering what goes bad in a mechanical part as opposed to an electronic part. I know the brake can be bypassed and another switch put in. Is there any way to fix the one thats in there? By bending the metal to touch ?
If you are talking about repairing the brake assembly as one whole unit , that's what I would do.... I have fixed a few with a just a switch , here's a link to one I fixed , but already had a switch on it that the owner put on , this is a OLD school mower with no brake .... If you mean bending the metal to make the brake put more pressure , I am sure that would work.. ruclips.net/video/Yw1Av2nQgoA/видео.html Read the pinned comment that Miss Hollie wrote if you don't mind ...... Let me know how it turned out ....
@@Budro4764 Thank you so much! I will check out the links you provided!! I will let you know how it turned out 1 good thing is my lawnmower is a lot easier to work on than my Harley!! Lol
@@elliottnunez1057 Are you from Southwest Louisiana ?? My grandma was a Nunez , her grandmother came from Nova Scotia along with the other Cajuns / Acadians during the Grand Voyage , those Nunez's were from France instead of Spain .....She spoke very little english , we all spoke French in the house instead of english....
@@Budro4764 No, I am from New York but lest 20 odd years ago. My last name is Cuban, My Dad's father was from Cuba. His wife my grandma was from Sicily. My mom's side, are Irish, German, Dutch and Native American Indian. I'm just a mutt or Heinze 57 . lol Oh, as for the mower it seems the cable that goes to the handle and break/throttle? isn't pulling the metal tab far enough for the switch part of the tab to clear the bottom piece, grounding or shorting it out!! What I did was zip tie the cable a bit to the handle. It didn't tighten enough so I got a little steel bar and I push it the rest of the way, so it clears, no metal touching so it starts. The handle will then work! I mow the lawn let go of the bar, and it shuts off so the safety feature still works. just have to help that cable out a bit to start the mower. A new cable may help? Without this video It would've taken longer to figure out how that all worked together if I learned that fact at all!! Thank you !!
I know I'm late to the game, here, on this video, but why does grounding to the block stop the juice from the ignition coil?
Naw it's never to late........ The block is the ground on anything such as a car , truck ETC..... When you make contact with the coil wire to the block it shorts the coil and cannot make a spark... Go Karts used to have a angled piece of metal bolted the head of the engine. When you wanted to stop the engine you put your foot on the metal and it would touch the spark plug and kill the engine...
Boo we need a link to that awesome forum that y’all do. Please and 🙏Thank you
www.lawnmowerforum.com/forum.php
thank you soooooooo much for your help, info and knowledge. i am going through the same trouble rite now !!!!! THANKS A BUNCH!
Glad it helped you ......
Good explanation of brake and kill switch assembly! Thankyou
Thanks for the update
Boo, I took the spring off and manually moved it and mower would not turn off unless the spring was on it. Why?
You might have some slack in the assembly and when the spring is attached, it holds everything tight,,,,
@@Budro4764 makes sense.
Please move the camera more.
Thanks