To anybody reading this please don't just start removing wires from your capacitor. You will get zapped. You need to discharge it with a 5k ohm 20 watt resistor. Then you can start touching the terminals without you being shocked. You also have to make sure your unit is off when doing this. Take this from someone that works in the field
You can’t measure the blower motor amp draw with the door opened. It has to be running with the actual static pressure of the duct work. Also, I always check the induced draft motor with my manometer connected with a tee. It verifies the motor speed is good, not flue problems and there is enough vacuum to close the pressure switch. It takes 45 minutes to an hour to do it all right
There's a recall that came out recently about those furnaces running without the blower being operational and melting coil pans. We add a pressure switch to the back of the blower housing and install a secondary board to manipulate the unit to lockout if the blower stops for any reason. This applies to the high efficiency goodman and Amanas only
In the vid, I didn't pressure test on the manifold. You may have edited that part out. I check the micro amps on the flame sensor and the ohms on the ignitor. Also use a field piece CO detector at the vents. You ever do that on maintenances or just when you believe there is a problem with the heat exchanger?
Good vide, for furnaces more 10 years old you should pull the blower out of the furnace then visually check the heat exchanger for cracks and rust damage.
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thankyou this is the best video for furnace preventative maintenance . This is my fist winter as a tech so this helps alot.
To anybody reading this please don't just start removing wires from your capacitor. You will get zapped. You need to discharge it with a 5k ohm 20 watt resistor. Then you can start touching the terminals without you being shocked. You also have to make sure your unit is off when doing this. Take this from someone that works in the field
You can’t measure the blower motor amp draw with the door opened. It has to be running with the actual static pressure of the duct work. Also, I always check the induced draft motor with my manometer connected with a tee. It verifies the motor speed is good, not flue problems and there is enough vacuum to close the pressure switch. It takes 45 minutes to an hour to do it all right
thanks for the video. great info
You need the blower panel back on so your IBM pulls the correct Amps.
Also nu flame sensor is coated- Thus recommend using wire brush
Nice video
There's a recall that came out recently about those furnaces running without the blower being operational and melting coil pans. We add a pressure switch to the back of the blower housing and install a secondary board to manipulate the unit to lockout if the blower stops for any reason.
This applies to the high efficiency goodman and Amanas only
In the vid, I didn't pressure test on the manifold. You may have edited that part out. I check the micro amps on the flame sensor and the ohms on the ignitor. Also use a field piece CO detector at the vents. You ever do that on maintenances or just when you believe there is a problem with the heat exchanger?
How come when I take an amp draw from the heat wire on the board I don’t have anything pulling but the system is running
Nice job. Good knowledge.
Good vide, for furnaces more 10 years old you should pull the blower out of the furnace then visually check the heat exchanger for cracks and rust damage.
I pull and clean burners on these as well
im pretty sure that was single wall pipe for the exhaust yes?
Right on thank you! Very knowledgeable
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge 😃👍
Great video and well explained, thanks!
Easier way is to take amp draw on inducer then minus that number from L1 or neutral. I find the amps are off when I have the blower door open
That’s good to know. Thanks
Very true
Very helpful. Thank you.
you’re not supposed to sand the flame sensor, all that does is make groves in it to catch more debris. clean with a dollar bill.
Personally I prefer a Brillo pad/scotch brite type material, won’t leave grooves, but a little more aggressive/faster than a dollar bill. Cheaper too!
Cutting on a ruud furnace