From Rips to Crosscuts with the Dash-Board System
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- Switching from ripping to the crosscut setup on the Dash-Board workbench is a simple, quick process.
Check out the versatility of our whole system at www.dashboardpws.com/
See us on Instagram @dashboardpws 
Хобби
Why are your products not available in Europe? They would have many customers here . In Combination with Bosch its Perfect .
We hear you and are working on something for Europe near the end of the year. In the meantime, we ship directly to our customers around the world.
@@dashboardportableworkshop jiiihaaa ,I will immediately buy this ingenious part.
Greetings from a Austrian Woodworker Milan .👍👍👍👍👍
I really enjoy your videos. Your system does appear to be superior to Festool and home
Built. Did you pre-square your fence and rail before the video?
I did spend time crunching all the numbers between building my own MFT table, buying yours or Festool. Not including my own time investment in the process of building my own the cost of building my own was only like $150-$200 less than buying a Festool including their extra side table.
I don’t make a living off of this table. The table will just be for my 2 to 3 times a year when I want to build a cabinet or doing home remodeling I don’t have a shed or an unfinished basement. I only have a two car garage.
Based on my calculations, your system is about two times that of Festool-trying my best to match size and accessories.
Again, being a part-time
Hobbyist the wobble of table would be something worth living with. Happy to have an offline conversation.
Thanks for your message. Yes, the guide rail brackets, and thus the guide rail itself, were squared to the table during initial setup of the entire bench and accessories. It's a simple process based on the grid of holes, and the fences drop into those holes, so taking them on and off requires no special re-squaring. Same thing for the guide rail. We have several videos about the setup.
We aren't trying to emulate anything Festool has done, since frustration with their table and its native accessories was the reason this project started. What we've done is create something unique. It goes far beyond the MFT3, so any comparison is apples to oranges. It costs more to do what we do mechanically and to provide the quality we do; we are a small, entirely self-financed company. Our designs come from minds that have worked professionally in carpentry and cabinetry for decades; the engineering only happens after the need is carefully defined based on real-world experience, and that's the difference, where looking for better, non-traditional methods is our way of life.
Our complete system might be more than the hobbyist needs, but a large percentage of our customers simply use individual elements of our product line to improve the setups they already have, and it sounds like you might fit into that group.
You're always welcome to contact us directly via info@dashboardpws.com for a more personal discussion.
Thank you for the additional color. I will take you up on your offer when I am ready!😊
Genius!
Thanks, Michael.:)
Круто
Sure would have to have a lot of pieces of the same size to cut to make all that worthwhile!
Changeover is approximately 80-82 seconds. And, yes, the setup excels at batch work.
I really like your rip gauge idea, but I’m not a fan of referencing off the splinter guard. The play in the arbor bearing and blade flex seems to always make the splinter guard 1/32” off at min, in my experience.
Would it not be possible to reference off the rib in the track, even though one would have to calibrate it to your saw initially?
Although I do understand the simplicity of how you do it.
The Rip Gauge is rail-agnostic, so it works with any brand because the splinter guard is the reference. I can only say that we keep multiple rail types and saws around the shop and have not had the problem you describe; it works every time here. Would you agree that if the splinter guard is in bad shape then it's not really doing its job well and should be repositioned or replaced? If the saw itself has a lot of runout or bad bearings, then that would lead to imprecise results with any approach, no?
@@dashboardportableworkshop the saw I use is not that old, maybe three years old, makita, have changed splinter guard 4 or 5 times,maybe I just got a bad saw!
I think I’m going to donate it to a less precise person, get the festool system, I have other festool anyway.
Also what I have in mind would still be rail -agnostic, as you put it.
My experience with my Festool saw is that if you take care of your splinter guard, referencing it on the initial setup provides accurate results. Also remember that you should try to measure once and all other cuts should be repeats with a known stop/configruation. That’s the beauty of this system. If you’re off just a little, as long as everything is consistently off, you can almost always make it work. The best way to have a problem is to keep measuring over and over again 😊
@@5280Woodworking yep, I already do that, I just do it without referencing the splinter guard!
@@mrmajestic345yep, you can do that if you understand your rail and tool. I like the slinger guard as that IS where the cut happens. It works on any of the 4 rails I have. But if it works for ya, great!
I think this is a well thought out system. Unfortunately with that come with a price that's out of a lot of people's reach.
Have you ever considered doing a basic version where the price could drop down? I have no doubt your system it's top notch but not everyone is a working pro.
Thanks for your question. We're unable to appeal to everyone, but many of our customers just use elements of our system on their own, shop-built benches. The Guide Rail Brackets, Universal Track Stars, and F2 fences are good examples.
*Promo sm* 😇
😂
I think referencing from splinter guard is not a good idea and this is a problem I have with festool. It does not take long before splinter guard is off and now all your cuts are off. The price of replacing splinter guards is not cheap anymore. Also, different rails have different splinter width but you are still using the same saw so that results in quick damage to the splinter guard and for that reason I stopped using Festool and went back to using my old delta saw. No splitter guard to worry about and ver reliable and accurate. For cross cut, I have European sliding table that can cut full sheet.
In summary, I think DashBoard is better than Festool but it is way overpriced when you buy everything you see and still has Festool problems. For these 2 reasons I am out.
We disagree with you there, Woody. We are very much into frugality and in our experience a splinter guard can be repositioned more than once and reused. It's also easy to find less expensive replacements than the Festool ones.
It's our belief that using one saw per rail is a smart practice to avoid variations in how they might cut the guard, as well as taking care of your rails to avoid damage generally.
Next, different strokes for different folks. You mention your multiple table saws and particularly having a European sliding saw at your disposal. Those are great if you have the permanent space for them, including their own footprints and room for infeed and outfeed, the electrical connections, and the large dust collection system that's essential. However, most people in smaller shops and/or who need mobile setups aren't so well-equipped. As examples, it'll be tough to carry your slider around and put it into the truck or van, or fold it up and stand it in the corner when you need the garage back for other purposes.
The point of what we do is to enable very versatile and accurate machining/assembly operations that are quite ergonomic in ways never before accomplished, using fewer tools than would be traditional, in less space and at lower cost to a user's body. Our thousands of satisfied customers around the world will attest to that.
Thank you for the reply. I think the problem with splinter is that Festool makes you setup the blade at slight angle and as time goes by this will bite into the splinter. I am going to try to set the blade at parallel position and see what happens.
Don't misunderstand me. I think what you came up with is 100% better than Festool table but at a significant increase in price.
I like Festool saws, routers, and sanders but not anything else including their guide rails because they can flex in the middle of 8' cut and cause 1/32" difference. Already discussed this with festool and the answer is the user must push the saw in back.