"The moment you free yourself of the idea of perfection, you will sleep better" no truer words Stefan! I should add the wiring work might not be perfection in your world, but it's artwork in mine. Nice Job sir.
Makes me wonder about the melatonin consumption of the gentleman Stefan made a boring head adaptor for a while ago. The one that was specced ±1um on every dimension including clearance bores, if I recall correctly.
When I first saw Wago terminal blocks I adopted them straight away. I love them and they have never once given me any trouble. While everyone else argues about screw terms/wirenuts... I'll be snapping my Wago's shut and know they work perfectly!
@@olik136 I'm in Australia so nearly everything here is tunnel screw terminals (also called Blue Points here. Like calling a vacuum a Hoover). This kind of connection is only just starting to catch on. We never use wire nuts here. I'm not even sure if they are legal. I don't care though because the Wago 221s are the only thing I'll ever use!
@@olik136electrician here. The wire nuts are perfectly legal (EU rules) There's nothing wrong with them really, they are really quite fast to work with when you're the first one to do the connection. It's all the guys that come after you that will have some issues making changes in the box. The ability to disconnect any wire independently without disturbing any of the other ones is where the wago 221 really shines. Troubleshooting and such... The wire nut holds wires together just fine though.
Freeing ones self from the idea of perfection was a huge lesson I learned early in my life. I was not a machinist but it applies in all fields where personal skills are involved in doing a job. Then the challenge is to be the best you can be in all that you do..... served me well. Thank You so much for you videos. Russ
There's a few different names for those combination screwdrivers: Wera calls them Xeno, others call them Terminal. It's so satisfying to use a quality screwdriver on the right screw! There's also a US brand that makes one that's more like a combination Roberts (square) and flat blade, which works on US circuit breakers and grounding terminals.
25:50 if you want better bores with helical ramping then try to ground-off most of the flutes to about -0.02mm. all you need from the end mill is just its face and 1-2mm of cutting edge at the end. any cutting edge above is just rubbing in hard material and deflecting a tool which leads to tapered bore.
love the work you do. I love your mini Kern. Also your pronunciation of Knipex and the joke on it is perfect. The fights that people have over pronunciation here in the States are endless. I just do not get it. I now mispronounce the name horribly, just to start the fight... Great work and keep it up. Your thoughtful proves and attention to detail is a pleasure to watch. The only thing I would change, paint your machine red and black. :)
I love mispronouncing things! There are so many ways to botch phonemes from tradition. I think it's one of the things she mentioned in the divorce proceedings...
Well done imho. I have always liked your style. Your dedication to achieving the center of the target without breaking the bank and arriving at an acceptable level of accuracy is always appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to share this. ✌️
The bendy-grabby ITS-plates are reminiscent of old-style safety-razors, where a set of two dowel-pins locate the razor-blade in its holder, once the blade gets bent.
Stefan... that Tesa-Hite is gorgeous. Wow what a piece of wizardry. Didn't even know such a fancy height gauge existed. At least, one that wasnt also strapped to a multi million dollar cnc. I am so excited to see the awesome parts you're going to make!
For people who dont often see industry standard chucking options like me.... that chucking system is like space tech. Love the repeatability. And oddly enough when you take the time to really consider what its doing, it's not doing anything super groundbreaking, its just a bunch of simple systems put together to make a really repeatable system.
this comment was the one i connected with, it is just awesome, and someone above said how it works similar to how safety razors work... which have been around who knows how long, but space tech isnt the right analogy, space tech to me seems like something super advanced and ground breaking, not this simple yet amazing combo of ideas. but I think i know what you mean, its the same feeling of awe at something so well designed and engineered that is the similar feeling i get when seeing for areospace/space stuff.
I run a CNC workshop in China. The machines we run include the Brother Speedio series and Tusgami VA series. I come here to say that Stefan's configure of his home CNC machine is quite outstanding. The gantry form is the most efficient strucutral form to exploit the strength of the material, which means it is optimal for machines with weight limitations. Simply speaking, the rigidity that gained from this frame can not be achieved from single column design with the same weight. The choice of spindle matches the agenda as well. For small machines with ridigity limitations you never choose torque over rpm. High rpm and low depth cutting reduces the stress on the frame and makes up the cutting volumn by allowing higher feedrate. By my humble suggestions there are two things to look at. Firstly, high rpm cutting generate more heat to the cutter and the part. Overheating can reduce the tool life and make the part out of tolerance or simply melt the part. Inclusion of some cooling methods could be a nice upgrade. Secondly, the ball bearing screws and guides do need regular lubrications. A hand pumped grease distribution system could be a viable choice. It is simple, just some tubes and nozzles. It is also far less messy than a oil distribution system which tend to distribute the oil elsewhere. All in all, I am super excited that this machine can become a industry grade machine for home use.
Terminal Screw Drivers are great, I worked with PLC systems. The I/O blocks all use those terminal screws, that look Phillips and straight, but they are really terminal screw heads. My drivers are made by Wiha Tools, fit perfectly.
I have an ancient TCP Weller iron that I use almost daily. When I served my apprenticeship over 30 years ago one of the responsibilities I had was the repair and refurbishment of all the soldering irons in the production area (everything was hand built by hand), and after some months of saving the best of the old parts I had enough working bit to build a useable iron. The best thing is that since these magnastat irons fell out of favour, I quite often find new bits on eBay selling for very little so I have a decent range of tip shapes and temperature settings now. I would like to get a JBC or Metcal though, maybe one day.
Always a good day when Stefan uploads a new video! I have to say that ITS Chuck system is really cool, the accuracy and repeatability is quite impressive, this seems like it will certainly help with the workflow on your production work, so congrats. Great video as always and thank you for uploading my friend! 👍👍
That's a really impressive bit of kit. Congratulations for the purchase and what is more, thank you for all the knowledge you share with us. I learn a lot from you.
Thanks again for your inspiration in all things shop. I really appreciated your electrical tool kit ideas as I have tried many different bags and belt pouches and none seemed adequate or balanced to carry. I am going to try the parachute bag idea and see if it works for me. Here is an idea I picked up while researching ideas for a vapor blast cabinet. The plexiglass window on a blast cabinet needs to be kept clean to see the interior of the cabinet so they spray water onto the inside of the window. You could easily use a similar system to clear chips and debris from your front window before you fold it down. Either a water spray or an air spray would do the job. Thanks for all you do and the inspiration you provide.
Great video!! Although I will never be able to afford CNC equipment, I found the discussion of hybrid screwdrivers very informative. Also, the endorsement of coffee, as a productivity enhancement reinforces, my own experience. Cheers, F.C.
If you are building an extrusion frame for the enclosure you could have the "fixed" panels held in place with strong magnets or hard case latches, for the occasional cleaning or oversized job.
Amazing. my electrician bag has almost all the exact same things. Must be convergent evolution. The only thing I have is the normal wire strippers and the Irwin automatic one. Really nice for stripping the little wires in servo cables. Regarding Wagos: I wish they made some that were meant for panel mounting like DIN rails.
What an amazing machine you're building! It's obvious from the initial machining work you show, that this is a very rigid machine, capable of very accurate work. I am inspired by the work you do and only wish I had known about what you do many years ago!
That ITS system is cool. This is a awesome addition to get reliable and repeatable accuracy in a short time. And since you carry over the CNC controller, you can still use the CrossCompensation feature in EdingCNC and tweak the last 2/100mm out of the X/Y squareness of the router with the software... Then it is almost a Kern 👍
Been working in automation for around 8 years now and first time I see the combined screwdrivers!. Thanks for the tip Stefan, have them ordered. Did know about the special screwdrivers Phoenix makes for example for their terminal blocks. Regarding the enclosure, for my router (Sorotec ST0704) I opted for a full enclosure. The biggest advantage for me is the noise, or better the lack of it. It does a great job at reducing the noise in the shop. And I've added fumes extraction to it for the mist and carbon dust. For the door I went with a folding, harminica, type. Helps with the space saving. If you want to get fancy you can even have Eding automatically open and close the door at the start or end of your program.
Nice work, regarding the enclosure door. You can always do a type of folding door like on the Tornos gt swiss lathe. I had a solid door on my cnc lathe that opened upwards and like you said, coolant and chips dropping on your head when sticking your head into the machine. At one stage I took my door off, made a split in the centre of it with a hinge and also have some gas lifts to take the weight and keep the door open. Now it folds away just about completely and chips and coolant drips in the back of the machine whilst I setup a new parts etc. Used cast plexiglass for the door with a steel frame
Coffee is always the Answer sometimes the question is however incorrect🤣 Looks like a great new addition to your toy collection 👍 For someone like yourself a TS100 Soldering iron and a 100W+ Laptop power supply is a good midway step to a JBC if you ever consider a Soldering Iron upgrade. It was only 5 years ago I gave my Weller to a Mate as it was sitting on 'the shelf' after I got a JBC.
I built an enclosure about 3 ft tall for a 4 x 4 ft waterjet machine. I pondered plexiglass and lexan at about $400 a 4 x 8 sheet. Of course it is nice and clear for an hour and then covered in dirt, scratched and not very transparent. I found extruded polycarb 1./4 inch thick for $40 a sheet. You can lift a 4 x 8 sheet with two fingers. It cuts easily with a table saw or circular saw. It is remarkably strong and rigid because of its ribs. I built the frame out 80/20 aluminum extrusion. I made a vertical sliding that goes above my head driven by belts and an air cylinder. I made the slides using the slots in the extrusion and shielded them from dirt and abrasive with a simple metal strip. I originally intended to prototype in the extruded polycarb and then switch to Plexiglass but I much prefer the polycarb because of cost and weight, The system has been in regular use foe 2 years and works great. Waterjets make a terrible mess but this one remains clean. At least prototype in the extruded poly and switch later when you are happy. I thought about putting Plexiglass on just the front, who needs a transparent back or sides? I like the extruded poly as is. I can replace panels for $20 instead of $400. I highly recommend the vertical sliding door too. Glad to send you more info if you wish. Great channel I watch all your videos. JY
Amazing work Stefan 👍, it’s a joy to see your videos. I learn something new every time. On the daytime I am a Workshop manager where we have numerous CNC machine, some really big ones. For medium sized CNC we have standardized on DMG Mori 5-axis and we have 11 of them. Enclosure doors are not easy to design apparently. Sliding door problem is one of the most common problems with the machines.
Suggestions on the enclosure: 1. Put a 75mm or so chip tray about 50mm below what will be the bottom of the hinged door when it is completely open and vertical. I suspect that most chips will fall off the door when it bangs open against the front of the enclosure. The chip tray should catch a lot of them. 2. Some sort of exhaust fan in the back or bottom of the enclosure with a filter before or after the fan. This will hopefully create a slightly negative pressure gradient in the enclosure and maybe keep most of the chips inside.
Stripax wirestripper/cutter durability. Back in the seventies a coworker made a pneumatic test rig, stripping and cutting 40 mm pieces. Took several hundred meters before failure.
Stefan, a 4-bar linkage could make it possible to have the lid on the enclosure cover the angled part of the frame when in operation, and move out and down to sit in front of the machine as if it were on a vertical slide when open. Would be happy to work out a mechanism, if you like.
Make the enclosure cover with hinges on top , as well, there are slides(tracks) on the hinges so the enclosure will be slided up during the process of being lifted up and rotated backwards, then the travel path of enclosure' s front occupies less space at the front and it won't hit the operater's body
Stefan with the enclosure door maybe consider putting the hinges right at the back of the machine and make the Lexan follow your top profile with the angled front section, that way its only a short lift on pneumatic rams and it provides plenty of clearance and visibility 40:00
Heard on an other YT channel the term "The other CAD": Cardboard Assisted Design. Apparently works also for enclosures, not just highly custom weld parts.
I thought the answer to the riddle of the coffee mugs is going to be "I changed my job, and now I work at Kern". As of the electrician tools, about the same as mine. I'd suggest you to add a Knipex ErgoStrip. My automatic wire stripper does not handle well wires with thick, sturdy insulation like PV wires. They start pulling off the insulation, without the blade cutting deep enough down to the wire.
Nice video again Stefan. Maybe on you enclosure you could have the flip front just sit in position via small spigots or some such. Then lift out the way onto a small shelf and side clips with lots of clearance but on the inside of main enclosure, then chips would hopefully stay within the enclosure. Make it really light and easy to replace when it gets scratches. Just a thought.
Hi Stefan, ich hatte das gleiche Problem mit der Umhausung meiner DIY VMC Fräse. Umhausung aus Aluprofil etc. war zu klobig usw. Ich habe mich dann für einen durchsichtigen Duschvorhang entschieden, welcher von der Decke hängt. Wenn ich nicht Fräse, wird der an der Wand mittels Gummibänder befestigt, so bleibt alles "Luftig" wenn ich Fräse, ziehe ich den Vorhang zu (kleine Magnet angebracht) und die Späne bleibt im Fräsbereich. Gruß
In regards to the door on the enclosure Stefan, and Im sure you have probably considered it but what about like a swing-back clamshell style? Could have it keep the nice angular lines and have it lift up slightly then kind of hinge and slide back. Almost like the old metal toolboxes where the trays unfold. Just a kind of double linkage hinge. None of those are technical terms... maybe 😅 haha not sure. But something like that maybe?
It wasn't completely clear in the video how much space there is on the left side of your enclosure. But if there is enough space, how about putting the hinge for the door on the angled left top edge. That way you could open the door and let it hang on the left side of the enclosure. Out of the way and not getting chips on you when reaching into the machine. Also out of the way when it is open. Another consideration could be having a removable panel on the front of the enclosure for longer parts to stick thru in event if that were necessary. The door hinged on the side angle would also clear that possible situation.
Using the Tesa Hite 4 as a tool measurement probe with the remark "and this is more accurate than any tool setter I can afford" made me laugh. The Tesa Hite is something I have on my wishlist for quite some time, combining its use with a tool setter might be a great sales pitch to my business partner 😁 By the way: Nice from Hoffman to put their order number on the Swiss Tools screwdrivers, that saved me some searching for those.
I'm far from an electrician, or a Mechatronics Guy, but my Cousin told me years ago: "Get a Fluke!, it will be you first multi-meter, and also your last.. because these things are Idiot Proof!".. he was right, and i still use my Fluke 179.. not the most basic model, but as my Cousin also told me:"It might have more functions than you are now able to use, but you will not have to buy another one, if you learn more.." Truer words have never been spoken.. I still have it, and use more and more of the functions...
I don't trust them further than I can throw them. I know they are widely spread, used and certified for that use, but personaly I don't like them. My preference is a DusPol or a Multimeter. (Correct tool would be the DusPol)
Great content as usual Stefan, a very fine looking machine and I'm looking forward to projects with it. IMO your thumb pressure experiment has a conceptual mistake- in a moving gantry machine it's ok to exert the pressure on the spindle or the whole gantry assembly but on a fixed gantry system you should exert the pressure on the moving table to have a valid result.
This holders use so much Z espace. On my machine o which I had screwed the spindle up on the z axis. I almost never bolt anything to the table directly, and vices eat Z space quick. Your CNC seams so precise and tall that it would be a good candidate for a 4 and 5 axis trunion.
Looks like a nice bit of kit. But the clean up must be a nightmare. Having to clean metal filling size material which looks like it is definitely getting thrown about in spades. Good luck with the project! Edit: Of course I write my comment before finishing the video!
Perhaps a top flap that hinges on single or twin points either side and drops down vertically behind the front apron. It does not have to be perfectly tight and a strip of bristles may be enough along the seams.
Cable stripper : get yourself some Jokari, it is a life changing tool, i now enjoy working with cables, and my box cutter has not been used for a long while !
as for the door on the enclosure, I like the fold down front, dump chips in the lap style. Maybe make some trick hinges for it so it's easily unhooked and removed entirely and stored elsewhere. Is there enough space to remove the door and store it on edge inside the enclosure? keep in mind your wrist and arm will rest on that front lip. Im curious about the tray/tub underneath that would enable flood coolant or prevent dripping on the floor. maybe some inspiration in roofing/siding flashing bends.
Re the enclosure door could you have it lift off entirely. So you can store it under the table when not in use but when you do remove it you can put it down face up so the chips don't fall off. Perhaps held in with rare earth magnets
Hey Mr. Gotteswinter - downclimb! Bouldering mats are not as forgiving as your snazzy fixture plates are repeatable. They just look like it. I know you're about 3m tall and that camera angle could have been deceptive, maybe you only dropped 5% of your height, but still - I knackered my ankle for a year doing that once, years and years of bouldering, pretty disciplined at climbing back down and then one day dropped about 500mm and ankle was sore for a year! Anyway, patronizing rant over, another great vid. Very jealous of that box full of brass blocks, they look so nice, all ready to be customised :)
Thanks @StefanGotteswinter for your content, quite informative and certainly appreciate your detail in your projects. without endorsing a product specifically ;-) can you advise please the Terminal Blocks you've used in the X axis motor housing @9:28?
"The moment you free yourself of the idea of perfection, you will sleep better" no truer words Stefan! I should add the wiring work might not be perfection in your world, but it's artwork in mine. Nice Job sir.
Makes me wonder about the melatonin consumption of the gentleman Stefan made a boring head adaptor for a while ago. The one that was specced ±1um on every dimension including clearance bores, if I recall correctly.
Stefan,
What a versatile addition to your ( already 🤣) ‘super-spec’ machine shop
👏👏
Regards
Robert
17:55 A line of wisdom for today “The moment you free yourself from the idea of perfection, you will sleep better”
Impressive project build. Plus, great calendar!
When I first saw Wago terminal blocks I adopted them straight away. I love them and they have never once given me any trouble. While everyone else argues about screw terms/wirenuts... I'll be snapping my Wago's shut and know they work perfectly!
I have never actually seen wire nuts in Germany- a lot of people think they are not legal, but I think that is not actually the case
@@olik136 I'm in Australia so nearly everything here is tunnel screw terminals (also called Blue Points here. Like calling a vacuum a Hoover). This kind of connection is only just starting to catch on. We never use wire nuts here. I'm not even sure if they are legal. I don't care though because the Wago 221s are the only thing I'll ever use!
@@olik136electrician here. The wire nuts are perfectly legal (EU rules)
There's nothing wrong with them really, they are really quite fast to work with when you're the first one to do the connection. It's all the guys that come after you that will have some issues making changes in the box.
The ability to disconnect any wire independently without disturbing any of the other ones is where the wago 221 really shines.
Troubleshooting and such...
The wire nut holds wires together just fine though.
Climb those rocks! That's a really cool chuck. It looks like your regular jobs are about to get so much easier to set up.
Freeing ones self from the idea of perfection was a huge lesson I learned early in my life. I was not a machinist but it applies in all fields where personal skills are involved in doing a job.
Then the challenge is to be the best you can be in all that you do..... served me well.
Thank You so much for you videos.
Russ
There's a few different names for those combination screwdrivers: Wera calls them Xeno, others call them Terminal. It's so satisfying to use a quality screwdriver on the right screw!
There's also a US brand that makes one that's more like a combination Roberts (square) and flat blade, which works on US circuit breakers and grounding terminals.
25:50 if you want better bores with helical ramping then try to ground-off most of the flutes to about -0.02mm.
all you need from the end mill is just its face and 1-2mm of cutting edge at the end. any cutting edge above is just rubbing in hard material and deflecting a tool which leads to tapered bore.
Thanks Stefan, I appreciate the expanded coverage of that nice workholding interface. It’s fascinating! 👍
love the work you do. I love your mini Kern. Also your pronunciation of Knipex and the joke on it is perfect. The fights that people have over pronunciation here in the States are endless. I just do not get it. I now mispronounce the name horribly, just to start the fight... Great work and keep it up. Your thoughtful proves and attention to detail is a pleasure to watch. The only thing I would change, paint your machine red and black. :)
I love mispronouncing things! There are so many ways to botch phonemes from tradition. I think it's one of the things she mentioned in the divorce proceedings...
Well done imho. I have always liked your style. Your dedication to achieving the center of the target without breaking the bank and arriving at an acceptable level of accuracy is always appreciated. Thank you for taking the time to share this. ✌️
The bendy-grabby ITS-plates are reminiscent of old-style safety-razors, where a set of two dowel-pins locate the razor-blade in its holder, once the blade gets bent.
Stefan... that Tesa-Hite is gorgeous. Wow what a piece of wizardry. Didn't even know such a fancy height gauge existed. At least, one that wasnt also strapped to a multi million dollar cnc. I am so excited to see the awesome parts you're going to make!
Very nice machine and setup Stefan! Love hearing the train of thought on the design aspects.
ATB, Robin
hah, of course you boulder - nice send! slick work with the right foot when going for that hand hold
For people who dont often see industry standard chucking options like me.... that chucking system is like space tech. Love the repeatability. And oddly enough when you take the time to really consider what its doing, it's not doing anything super groundbreaking, its just a bunch of simple systems put together to make a really repeatable system.
this comment was the one i connected with, it is just awesome, and someone above said how it works similar to how safety razors work... which have been around who knows how long, but space tech isnt the right analogy, space tech to me seems like something super advanced and ground breaking, not this simple yet amazing combo of ideas. but I think i know what you mean, its the same feeling of awe at something so well designed and engineered that is the similar feeling i get when seeing for areospace/space stuff.
I run a CNC workshop in China. The machines we run include the Brother Speedio series and Tusgami VA series. I come here to say that Stefan's configure of his home CNC machine is quite outstanding. The gantry form is the most efficient strucutral form to exploit the strength of the material, which means it is optimal for machines with weight limitations. Simply speaking, the rigidity that gained from this frame can not be achieved from single column design with the same weight. The choice of spindle matches the agenda as well. For small machines with ridigity limitations you never choose torque over rpm. High rpm and low depth cutting reduces the stress on the frame and makes up the cutting volumn by allowing higher feedrate. By my humble suggestions there are two things to look at. Firstly, high rpm cutting generate more heat to the cutter and the part. Overheating can reduce the tool life and make the part out of tolerance or simply melt the part. Inclusion of some cooling methods could be a nice upgrade. Secondly, the ball bearing screws and guides do need regular lubrications. A hand pumped grease distribution system could be a viable choice. It is simple, just some tubes and nozzles. It is also far less messy than a oil distribution system which tend to distribute the oil elsewhere. All in all, I am super excited that this machine can become a industry grade machine for home use.
Brilliant as always Stefan you are an inspiration to many I thank you for your generosity in sharing with us all.
Thanks, never knew about those hybrid screw drivers. Purchased both after watching your video.
Terminal Screw Drivers are great, I worked with PLC systems. The I/O blocks all use those terminal screws, that look Phillips and straight, but they are really terminal screw heads. My drivers are made by Wiha Tools, fit perfectly.
Once again Stefan, you have taken this - what you call a hobby to another level. Thank you so much man.
I have an ancient TCP Weller iron that I use almost daily. When I served my apprenticeship over 30 years ago one of the responsibilities I had was the repair and refurbishment of all the soldering irons in the production area (everything was hand built by hand), and after some months of saving the best of the old parts I had enough working bit to build a useable iron. The best thing is that since these magnastat irons fell out of favour, I quite often find new bits on eBay selling for very little so I have a decent range of tip shapes and temperature settings now. I would like to get a JBC or Metcal though, maybe one day.
Always a good day when Stefan uploads a new video!
I have to say that ITS Chuck system is really cool, the accuracy and repeatability is quite impressive, this seems like it will certainly help with the workflow on your production work, so congrats.
Great video as always and thank you for uploading my friend! 👍👍
Thanks for all of your great videos! May you live long and prosper!
I think the enclosure is my favorite part. 🙂
Aside from the great machine work, it is impressive to see how much your english has improved over the years.
That's a really impressive bit of kit. Congratulations for the purchase and what is more, thank you for all the knowledge you share with us. I learn a lot from you.
Thanks again for your inspiration in all things shop. I really appreciated your electrical tool kit ideas as I have tried many different bags and belt pouches and none seemed adequate or balanced to carry. I am going to try the parachute bag idea and see if it works for me. Here is an idea I picked up while researching ideas for a vapor blast cabinet. The plexiglass window on a blast cabinet needs to be kept clean to see the interior of the cabinet so they spray water onto the inside of the window. You could easily use a similar system to clear chips and debris from your front window before you fold it down. Either a water spray or an air spray would do the job. Thanks for all you do and the inspiration you provide.
Excellent as always. Thanks yet again for such quality.
Great video!! Although I will never be able to afford CNC equipment, I found the discussion of hybrid screwdrivers very informative. Also, the endorsement of coffee, as a productivity enhancement reinforces, my own experience.
Cheers,
F.C.
Excellent stuff; looking forward to seeing the completed (if our machine builds are ever really "completed"...!) mill in operation!👍😊
If you are building an extrusion frame for the enclosure you could have the "fixed" panels held in place with strong magnets or hard case latches, for the occasional cleaning or oversized job.
"The moment you free yourself of the idea of perfection, you will sleep better" - I think every professional programmer's survival mantra 😀
Awesome Stefan. Quality video as always! Love the details
Amazing. my electrician bag has almost all the exact same things. Must be convergent evolution. The only thing I have is the normal wire strippers and the Irwin automatic one. Really nice for stripping the little wires in servo cables. Regarding Wagos: I wish they made some that were meant for panel mounting like DIN rails.
You can buy a cute little DIN rail holder for Wago 221s.
good video stefan
Renzetti's videos give me paralysis, I need to remember .001 to .005 is good enough for most of my projects
What an amazing machine you're building! It's obvious from the initial machining work you show, that this is a very rigid machine, capable of very accurate work. I am inspired by the work you do and only wish I had known about what you do many years ago!
Great project and machine to fit your shop. I appreciate it that you give the speeds and feeds and cutter information.
That ITS system is cool. This is a awesome addition to get reliable and repeatable accuracy in a short time.
And since you carry over the CNC controller, you can still use the CrossCompensation feature in EdingCNC and tweak the last 2/100mm out of the X/Y squareness of the router
with the software... Then it is almost a Kern 👍
Been working in automation for around 8 years now and first time I see the combined screwdrivers!. Thanks for the tip Stefan, have them ordered. Did know about the special screwdrivers Phoenix makes for example for their terminal blocks.
Regarding the enclosure, for my router (Sorotec ST0704) I opted for a full enclosure. The biggest advantage for me is the noise, or better the lack of it. It does a great job at reducing the noise in the shop. And I've added fumes extraction to it for the mist and carbon dust. For the door I went with a folding, harminica, type. Helps with the space saving.
If you want to get fancy you can even have Eding automatically open and close the door at the start or end of your program.
Nice work, regarding the enclosure door. You can always do a type of folding door like on the Tornos gt swiss lathe.
I had a solid door on my cnc lathe that opened upwards and like you said, coolant and chips dropping on your head when sticking your head into the machine. At one stage I took my door off, made a split in the centre of it with a hinge and also have some gas lifts to take the weight and keep the door open. Now it folds away just about completely and chips and coolant drips in the back of the machine whilst I setup a new parts etc. Used cast plexiglass for the door with a steel frame
It's lovely to see you excited again.
Coffee is always the Answer sometimes the question is however incorrect🤣 Looks like a great new addition to your toy collection 👍 For someone like yourself a TS100 Soldering iron and a 100W+ Laptop power supply is a good midway step to a JBC if you ever consider a Soldering Iron upgrade. It was only 5 years ago I gave my Weller to a Mate as it was sitting on 'the shelf' after I got a JBC.
Thanks for the info on the plus/minus screwdrivers, I’ve just ordered a pair of Wera ones in the U.K.
Super episode. Now I understand these fixtures.
I built an enclosure about 3 ft tall for a 4 x 4 ft waterjet machine. I pondered plexiglass and lexan at about $400 a 4 x 8 sheet. Of course it is nice and clear for an hour and then covered in dirt, scratched and not very transparent. I found extruded polycarb 1./4 inch thick for $40 a sheet. You can lift a 4 x 8 sheet with two fingers. It cuts easily with a table saw or circular saw. It is remarkably strong and rigid because of its ribs. I built the frame out 80/20 aluminum extrusion. I made a vertical sliding that goes above my head driven by belts and an air cylinder.
I made the slides using the slots in the extrusion and shielded them from dirt and abrasive with a simple metal strip. I originally intended to prototype in the extruded polycarb and then switch to Plexiglass but I much prefer the polycarb because of cost and weight, The system has been in regular use foe 2 years and works great. Waterjets make a terrible mess but this one remains clean. At least prototype in the extruded poly and switch later when you are happy. I thought about putting Plexiglass on just the front, who needs a transparent back or sides? I like the extruded poly as is. I can replace panels for $20 instead of $400. I highly recommend the vertical sliding door too.
Glad to send you more info if you wish.
Great channel I watch all your videos.
JY
58:22 Stellar! 💪 If you ever make it to the states I’d be happy to show you around some great climbing crags.
Great video, your work is consistently amazing and I'm glad I found your channel
Amazing work Stefan 👍, it’s a joy to see your videos. I learn something new every time. On the daytime I am a Workshop manager where we have numerous CNC machine, some really big ones. For medium sized CNC we have standardized on DMG Mori 5-axis and we have 11 of them. Enclosure doors are not easy to design apparently. Sliding door problem is one of the most common problems with the machines.
Suggestions on the enclosure:
1. Put a 75mm or so chip tray about 50mm below what will be the bottom of the hinged door when it is completely open and vertical. I suspect that most chips will fall off the door when it bangs open against the front of the enclosure. The chip tray should catch a lot of them.
2. Some sort of exhaust fan in the back or bottom of the enclosure with a filter before or after the fan. This will hopefully create a slightly negative pressure gradient in the enclosure and maybe keep most of the chips inside.
Stripax wirestripper/cutter durability. Back in the seventies a coworker made a pneumatic test rig, stripping and cutting 40 mm pieces. Took several hundred meters before failure.
Stefan, a 4-bar linkage could make it possible to have the lid on the enclosure cover the angled part of the frame when in operation, and move out and down to sit in front of the machine as if it were on a vertical slide when open. Would be happy to work out a mechanism, if you like.
very cool, thank you for sharing. Nice mini Kern...
Just superb, Stefan, as always :D. Really nice job on the machine and the fixture system *hat off*
For door hinge you could go with a Dihedral synchro-helix as seen in Koenigsegg doors. Watching you make one would be a great video! 😂
That must of been a lot of coffee!! What a wonderful lil machine, and your fixture chuck is a beautiful system.
Very nice work and I love the fixturing system. Cheers.
Whatever pronunciation annoys you most - love it!:D
Make the enclosure cover with hinges on top , as well, there are slides(tracks) on the hinges so the enclosure will be slided up during the process of being lifted up and rotated backwards, then the travel path of enclosure' s front occupies less space at the front and it won't hit the operater's body
Brilliant (as always)!!!
Ty for the content, Stephan.
Stefan with the enclosure door maybe consider putting the hinges right at the back of the machine and make the Lexan follow your top profile with the angled front section, that way its only a short lift on pneumatic rams and it provides plenty of clearance and visibility 40:00
Heard on an other YT channel the term "The other CAD": Cardboard Assisted Design. Apparently works also for enclosures, not just highly custom weld parts.
I thought the answer to the riddle of the coffee mugs is going to be "I changed my job, and now I work at Kern". As of the electrician tools, about the same as mine. I'd suggest you to add a Knipex ErgoStrip. My automatic wire stripper does not handle well wires with thick, sturdy insulation like PV wires. They start pulling off the insulation, without the blade cutting deep enough down to the wire.
Nice video again Stefan. Maybe on you enclosure you could have the flip front just sit in position via small spigots or some such. Then lift out the way onto a small shelf and side clips with lots of clearance but on the inside of main enclosure, then chips would hopefully stay within the enclosure. Make it really light and easy to replace when it gets scratches. Just a thought.
Hi Stefan, ich hatte das gleiche Problem mit der Umhausung meiner DIY VMC Fräse. Umhausung aus Aluprofil etc. war zu klobig usw. Ich habe mich dann für einen durchsichtigen Duschvorhang entschieden, welcher von der Decke hängt. Wenn ich nicht Fräse, wird der an der Wand mittels Gummibänder befestigt, so bleibt alles "Luftig" wenn ich Fräse, ziehe ich den Vorhang zu (kleine Magnet angebracht) und die Späne bleibt im Fräsbereich. Gruß
That is a very nice mini-mill you built👍
In regards to the door on the enclosure Stefan, and Im sure you have probably considered it but what about like a swing-back clamshell style? Could have it keep the nice angular lines and have it lift up slightly then kind of hinge and slide back. Almost like the old metal toolboxes where the trays unfold. Just a kind of double linkage hinge. None of those are technical terms... maybe 😅 haha not sure. But something like that maybe?
Cutting 60 RC on a tabletop mill without it ringing like a bell is impressive.
Nice to see you're getting into climbing!
Super nice setup Stefan! Great job putting that all together :)
Danke Stefan, wie immer tolles Video.
It wasn't completely clear in the video how much space there is on the left side of your enclosure. But if there is enough space, how about putting the hinge for the door on the angled left top edge. That way you could open the door and let it hang on the left side of the enclosure. Out of the way and not getting chips on you when reaching into the machine. Also out of the way when it is open. Another consideration could be having a removable panel on the front of the enclosure for longer parts to stick thru in event if that were necessary. The door hinged on the side angle would also clear that possible situation.
Using the Tesa Hite 4 as a tool measurement probe with the remark "and this is more accurate than any tool setter I can afford" made me laugh. The Tesa Hite is something I have on my wishlist for quite some time, combining its use with a tool setter might be a great sales pitch to my business partner 😁
By the way: Nice from Hoffman to put their order number on the Swiss Tools screwdrivers, that saved me some searching for those.
Excellent info,Stefan.Thank you.
I'm far from an electrician, or a Mechatronics Guy, but my Cousin told me years ago: "Get a Fluke!, it will be you first multi-meter, and also your last.. because these things are Idiot Proof!".. he was right, and i still use my Fluke 179.. not the most basic model, but as my Cousin also told me:"It might have more functions than you are now able to use, but you will not have to buy another one, if you learn more.." Truer words have never been spoken..
I still have it, and use more and more of the functions...
I would suggest that you add a non-contact voltage indicator to your bag of tools, cheap tool to help prevent getting zapped.
NCVs are not sufficient for verifying a circuit is de-energized. So at that point just... skip the NCV and measure the circuit you're touching.
I don't trust them further than I can throw them. I know they are widely spread, used and certified for that use, but personaly I don't like them. My preference is a DusPol or a Multimeter. (Correct tool would be the DusPol)
"Old Weller..."
OK Travis, you know what you have to do.
Great content as usual Stefan, a very fine looking machine and I'm looking forward to projects with it. IMO your thumb pressure experiment has a conceptual mistake- in a moving gantry machine it's ok to exert the pressure on the spindle or the whole gantry assembly but on a fixed gantry system you should exert the pressure on the moving table to have a valid result.
I do not need more projects.... I do not need more projects... but damn is it tempting to add a FS4MG build to my list.
This holders use so much Z espace. On my machine o which I had screwed the spindle up on the z axis. I almost never bolt anything to the table directly, and vices eat Z space quick. Your CNC seams so precise and tall that it would be a good candidate for a 4 and 5 axis trunion.
Gotta love elastic averaging!!
Looks like a nice bit of kit. But the clean up must be a nightmare. Having to clean metal filling size material which looks like it is definitely getting thrown about in spades.
Good luck with the project!
Edit: Of course I write my comment before finishing the video!
How about a flexible roll-top, as done in wooden desks? It could also be done with rolling sides (horizontal open)
Perhaps a top flap that hinges on single or twin points either side and drops down vertically behind the front apron. It does not have to be perfectly tight and a strip of bristles may be enough along the seams.
Maybe you could lift the moveable door upand slide it down into a track on the inside instead of flapping it over on the outside? Great work Stefan.
Now I want to see "Stefan VS The Robot!" They both build the same part and then judge speed and accuracy and precision! My money's on Stefan...
My money is on the robot :D
Especially for repeatability.
Simply tremendous!
Thanks Stefan, cool machine! 👍
Cable stripper : get yourself some Jokari, it is a life changing tool, i now enjoy working with cables, and my box cutter has not been used for a long while !
I find it all very fascinating. Exept maybe for the rain :)
excellent work
I think Erowa call up a ground finish for the 4 feet - IIRC it's a 0.004 flatness
My favorite line - "Let's let the robots do it"
as for the door on the enclosure, I like the fold down front, dump chips in the lap style. Maybe make some trick hinges for it so it's easily unhooked and removed entirely and stored elsewhere. Is there enough space to remove the door and store it on edge inside the enclosure? keep in mind your wrist and arm will rest on that front lip. Im curious about the tray/tub underneath that would enable flood coolant or prevent dripping on the floor. maybe some inspiration in roofing/siding flashing bends.
Re the enclosure door could you have it lift off entirely. So you can store it under the table when not in use but when you do remove it you can put it down face up so the chips don't fall off. Perhaps held in with rare earth magnets
Hey Mr. Gotteswinter - downclimb! Bouldering mats are not as forgiving as your snazzy fixture plates are repeatable. They just look like it. I know you're about 3m tall and that camera angle could have been deceptive, maybe you only dropped 5% of your height, but still - I knackered my ankle for a year doing that once, years and years of bouldering, pretty disciplined at climbing back down and then one day dropped about 500mm and ankle was sore for a year! Anyway, patronizing rant over, another great vid. Very jealous of that box full of brass blocks, they look so nice, all ready to be customised :)
Thanks @StefanGotteswinter for your content, quite informative and certainly appreciate your detail in your projects.
without endorsing a product specifically ;-) can you advise please the Terminal Blocks you've used in the X axis motor housing @9:28?
Every British electrician screaming at thee screen "TURN THAT SCREWDRIVER ROUND" 😂
Nice bit of relaxation by you at the very end, and not your stunt double with the "green screen". Cheers and thanks for the video.
I do all my own stunts ;)