I used this kit on my camry 2.4 years and years ago, its been 140,000 miles of trouble free ownership after that. It really is a very nice piece of kit!
Thanks for the video bro, I am about to attack a 5.0 Range Rover engine with 20 stripped head bolts. I just bought this kit, read the instructions and after watching your video I am confident of the repair. 🤘🏻
Have to tap as far as you can leave about 1/4 stickout. Clean out 3x Carefully tighten the jog as it flexes and can go out of center even with centering pin.
What keeps the drill from going too deep? But what is in the block that is stopping the drill bit. I am just curious. I know you need to measure to be sure. It seems odd to me that the bit stops.
The Huhn kit recommends not only NOT reusing the original head bolts, but in the case of this engine buying NEW Toyota head bolts or ARP studs if you really want to go all out (high performance builds). They go so far as to say don't buy aftermarket bolts. Yeah, I seriously doubt a 16th either way in depth makes much difference as long as the thread on the bolt has relief (doesn't bottom the bolt thread before getting to the head surface, plus stretch, when torqued. If it is well high, though, it might cause problems with final torque, even if clear of the non threaded part of the bolt, as these are torqued using a ft/lb, then further 90 deg angle torquing method (if the bolt truly yields, which if I understand it correctly, it does, it probably doesn't matter for torque spec, even then). You want to make sure your hands aren't all oily when you handle that insert, or brake clean it, then final insert with clean hands, so that the loctite operates properly. Oils will defeat its purpose, if bad enough. I'm just about to do a set, so thanks for the video, very helpful to see things once, even though the instructions with the kit are thorough. I would be interested to know if you have any data on if any of these repairs have failed in service, and if so, at what point. These look MUCH better than the Time Sert kit, all around, to me. Larger diameter, courser (higher depth) thread, non expanding for locking, thicker to keep from expanding upon torquing, and if you look at the time-sert site, you'll see they have SECOND REPAIR inserts available, I stopped reading their material right there and moved on to an INTELLIGENT functional design. Just my two cents.
Camt tell if youre disagreeing with not buying aftermarket bolts or not but i will say studs are not the way to go, the threads have less stretch this route and they need that stretch factor.
I have a 2007 Camry that I picked up for nothing as a non runner, blown head gasket, compression was getting into the cooling system. It had the pistons changed in 2016 by Toyota. When I removed the head bolts, several of them were very lose, but the threads didn't pull out and they seem to be in tact. The deck on the block seems to be fine after checking it with a straight edge and feeler gauge, the head is warped approximately .006, and will need to be resurfaced. I'm debating whether or not to invest in repairing the engine. The last thing I would want is to put in back together and have the head bolts pull out. I'm considering buying this kit.
Thanks for video. The cleanest (least amount of shavings mess) and most organized 2AZFE repair I have seen. How were you able to put back the alignment dowel pins?
V Garcia thanks for the view, and yes the dowel pins do fit snug into the holes even tho the tap digs into it slightly. Very important to be clean anytime the motor is open. Good luck on the repair.
Trying to decide between this kit and the timesert kit that’s similar to this. I’ve heard more about timesert and it seems a little easier but this one’s cheaper. Any thoughts?
very good excellent video, congratulations for your contribution to the community, a question as to withdraw the 02 guides (tubing) that are used to center the packaging of the engine I see in the video that does not have them. greetings from Mexico.
@@riseauto1 I don't know exactly what it is called in English BUT it is like a kind of stainless steel coupling nozzle that guides the cylinder head gasket. How are you going to take off?
Thanks for the video. Has anyone used this kit after buying used instead of a new set? Should i repair all 10 bolts threads with this kit on my Camry or just the ones that are broken? I just have one broken threads so far. Thanks.
if you've got a 2.4L 2006 or earlier, likely the six around #2 & #3 cylinders are stripped. Those two middle cylinders compress simultaneously- lot of psi. The four threads in the perimeter seem to hold
Isaiah G. Richards if orders directly from hunn solutions it’s under 400 shipped to your door call them direct Yes it’s worth it given the cost of a machinist repairing the bottom end, or improperly repairing it and having to do it again Do it once do it right, since posted this Camry has 5k miles on it problem free
@@riseauto1 You can probably sell it on ebay afterwards, as it will do inserts for MANY engines, and the inserts are less than $100. I'm fairly sure you could retrieve at least half your investment, minus the insert costs, and then it's pretty reasonable.
Do not put tape down on the surface. The guide will smash it unevenly and the drill will not be straight. Get a roll of painter's tape and surround the fixtures for each hole one at a time. Keep the surface clean. Keep the fixtures clean. Expect 45 minutes to an hour per hole. It sucks but this kit is only for those who take their time.
I used this kit on my camry 2.4 years and years ago, its been 140,000 miles of trouble free ownership after that.
It really is a very nice piece of kit!
How many holes you do?
Thanks for the video bro, I am about to attack a 5.0 Range Rover engine with 20 stripped head bolts. I just bought this kit, read the instructions and after watching your video I am confident of the repair. 🤘🏻
disarmyou84 thanks for watching and good luck 👍🏻
disarmyou84 good luck man just take your time you’ll be fine
Have to tap as far as you can leave about 1/4 stickout.
Clean out 3x
Carefully tighten the jog as it flexes and can go out of center even with centering pin.
What keeps the drill from going too deep? But what is in the block that is stopping the drill bit. I am just curious. I know you need to measure to be sure. It seems odd to me that the bit stops.
always replace head bolts Good video
The Huhn kit recommends not only NOT reusing the original head bolts, but in the case of this engine buying NEW Toyota head bolts or ARP studs if you really want to go all out (high performance builds). They go so far as to say don't buy aftermarket bolts.
Yeah, I seriously doubt a 16th either way in depth makes much difference as long as the thread on the bolt has relief (doesn't bottom the bolt thread before getting to the head surface, plus stretch, when torqued. If it is well high, though, it might cause problems with final torque, even if clear of the non threaded part of the bolt, as these are torqued using a ft/lb, then further 90 deg angle torquing method (if the bolt truly yields, which if I understand it correctly, it does, it probably doesn't matter for torque spec, even then).
You want to make sure your hands aren't all oily when you handle that insert, or brake clean it, then final insert with clean hands, so that the loctite operates properly. Oils will defeat its purpose, if bad enough.
I'm just about to do a set, so thanks for the video, very helpful to see things once, even though the instructions with the kit are thorough. I would be interested to know if you have any data on if any of these repairs have failed in service, and if so, at what point. These look MUCH better than the Time Sert kit, all around, to me. Larger diameter, courser (higher depth) thread, non expanding for locking, thicker to keep from expanding upon torquing, and if you look at the time-sert site, you'll see they have SECOND REPAIR inserts available, I stopped reading their material right there and moved on to an INTELLIGENT functional design. Just my two cents.
Camt tell if youre disagreeing with not buying aftermarket bolts or not but i will say studs are not the way to go, the threads have less stretch this route and they need that stretch factor.
I have a 2007 Camry that I picked up for nothing as a non runner, blown head gasket, compression was getting into the cooling system. It had the pistons changed in 2016 by Toyota. When I removed the head bolts, several of them were very lose, but the threads didn't pull out and they seem to be in tact. The deck on the block seems to be fine after checking it with a straight edge and feeler gauge, the head is warped approximately .006, and will need to be resurfaced. I'm debating whether or not to invest in repairing the engine. The last thing I would want is to put in back together and have the head bolts pull out. I'm considering buying this kit.
If the bolts were loose you already have this problem.
@@jonathangarzon2798 Yup. I purchased the Huhn solutions repair kit and got it running a couple of months ago. So far its running fine.
Thanks for video. The cleanest (least amount of shavings mess) and most organized 2AZFE repair I have seen. How were you able to put back the alignment dowel pins?
V Garcia thanks for the view, and yes the dowel pins do fit snug into the holes even tho the tap digs into it slightly. Very important to be clean anytime the motor is open. Good luck on the repair.
Awesomeness
What year Camry did this stripped head issue apply to? Or did it happen more frequently with different years of Toyota Camry?
Trying to decide between this kit and the timesert kit that’s similar to this. I’ve heard more about timesert and it seems a little easier but this one’s cheaper. Any thoughts?
very good excellent video, congratulations for your contribution to the community, a question as to withdraw the 02 guides (tubing) that are used to center the packaging of the engine I see in the video that does not have them. greetings from Mexico.
Are you talking about the dowels ?
@@riseauto1 I don't know exactly what it is called in English BUT it is like a kind of stainless steel coupling nozzle that guides the cylinder head gasket. How are you going to take off?
@@juanrivas5250 the tool used to remove the dowels is called a blind hole puller, it’s also used to pilot bearings on flywheels
@@riseauto1 thanks
@@juanrivas5250 no problem
Thanks for the video. Has anyone used this kit after buying used instead of a new set? Should i repair all 10 bolts threads with this kit on my Camry or just the ones that are broken? I just have one broken threads so far. Thanks.
if you've got a 2.4L 2006 or earlier, likely the six around #2 & #3 cylinders are stripped. Those two middle cylinders compress simultaneously- lot of psi. The four threads in the perimeter seem to hold
Hello there,
My 2007 Camry has 4 striped head bolts. What do you think about rethread them?
What new gaskets are needed for this job?
@@wirenuts5910 Thanks! Your reply was very helpful! I appreciate it! I’m at the put everything back together phase now. Perfect timing.
How long did it take to do this repair?
Do you think it's worth it? I really don't wanna blow $600 on a kit that i'm gonna use once.
Isaiah G. Richards if orders directly from
hunn solutions it’s under 400 shipped to your door call them direct
Yes it’s worth it given the cost of a machinist repairing the bottom end, or improperly repairing it and having to do it again
Do it once do it right, since posted this Camry has 5k miles on it problem free
@@riseauto1 You can probably sell it on ebay afterwards, as it will do inserts for MANY engines, and the inserts are less than $100. I'm fairly sure you could retrieve at least half your investment, minus the insert costs, and then it's pretty reasonable.
do you think it will fail after you fix it do you think it's going to be permanent fix or it's going to go bad again ?
Car has been fine, don’t see any signs of the repair failing
Do not put tape down on the surface. The guide will smash it unevenly and the drill will not be straight. Get a roll of painter's tape and surround the fixtures for each hole one at a time. Keep the surface clean. Keep the fixtures clean. Expect 45 minutes to an hour per hole. It sucks but this kit is only for those who take their time.
rabidu2b worked perfectly fine, thanks for your input
Where you get the set from
Directly from Huhn solutions
Not a pickup disc its called a reluctor ring. Its not a tri-square, its a double hex (very different). Thanks though
i dont understand chipmunk