The 6 pots on the 9R can be problematic if not well looked after. What can happen is that the pistons stick, then the pads will rattle and wear a groove in the calipers which then means there’s a lip to push the pads over before they touch the disc. You will see a lot of 9R’s for sale that say the brakes need attention or bleeding when this is the issue. I put some 4 pot Nissins on mine and it made a massive difference. I also added a bleeder to the lever cylinder. As others have mentioned the 9R needs old fashioned oil from the time it was build. Fully synthetic will make the clutch slip. 👍
@kingjeepzj It seems likely to me there has been some sort of misunderstanding regarding the oil. Consider: 1: fully syntethic oil predates the zx9c by many years. 2: Mine ran fine on it, no issues whatsoever. 3: I have also ran other bikes, much older (even 70s ones) than the zx9c on fully synthetic. Never any clutch issues. This leads me to believe perhaps the wrong spec fully syntethic oil has been put in in it, if thats for sure what made it slip. Perhaps oil meant for cars? Its a quite common mistake that many people make, perhaps it was the case here as well?
You need to do a complete flush/clean/replace of ALL fluids. Rebuild/refurbish ALL slave & master cylinders. Lubricate any cables and lever pivots. Those are all good things to start with. Spark plugs too. Carb or throttle body cleaning, fuel injector cleaning as well.
Often these older bikes have stood for a while so the first few months of ownership can be an interesting experience. Keep a few quid back to get it up to a reasonable standard and you'll be fine. Cheaper to buy but often more expensive to run. Re fuel I now run e5 in all my bikes both carb and injection. Its a few pence more but I do get slightly better mpg, doesnt quite even out but close
Sorry to hear that. A new clutch hopefully won't be too challenging to install, but I've never looked into it. Sticky brakes, that's not good. I used to wheelie my first bike by dropping the clutch fast at high revs, but then once I got that out of my system, haven't wheelied since. It's much easier on the chain (it'll last longer), clutch, engine and bike.
I put E5 in my zx12r. I personally wouldn't use E10, especially if the bike isn't being used & the fuel is being left to sit. Those mirrors love to vibrate 😂, have you set up the suspension for your weight? Why don't you go to wheelie school as atleast you won't be wrecking any of your bikes in the process 😂
The clutch probably didn't have any freeplay when you bought it and then practicing wheelies would have finished it off and wrecked your headstock bearings at the same time, love your bike and it will love you back, abuse it and pay the price, and yeah the 6 pot Tokico's are notorious for seizing up, having said that it you keep them well maintained there really good.
I've got a year 2000,the guy I bought it from had the front brakes stripped and rebuild every year,,,,,,I left them for 18months daily riding later I've just rebuilt them with all new seals,,,they need rebuilding every year,,, it was pretty ugly in there
Personally speaking, stopping consistently and safely would be my priority so I would be getting brake seals and cleaning out the whole system, I know you're working to a price but I wouldn't put a price limit on my brakes, just saying.
I would use E5 without question. Brake wise the 6 pot Tokinas were always a problem if not regularly serviced. In there day they were the business but always seemed to suffer issues compared to the Nissan 4 pot callipers used on bikes like the Fireblade.
The 6 pots on the 9R can be problematic if not well looked after. What can happen is that the pistons stick, then the pads will rattle and wear a groove in the calipers which then means there’s a lip to push the pads over before they touch the disc. You will see a lot of 9R’s for sale that say the brakes need attention or bleeding when this is the issue. I put some 4 pot Nissins on mine and it made a massive difference. I also added a bleeder to the lever cylinder.
As others have mentioned the 9R needs old fashioned oil from the time it was build. Fully synthetic will make the clutch slip. 👍
Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated 👍
@kingjeepzj It seems likely to me there has been some sort of misunderstanding regarding the oil. Consider:
1: fully syntethic oil predates the zx9c by many years.
2: Mine ran fine on it, no issues whatsoever.
3: I have also ran other bikes, much older (even 70s ones) than the zx9c on fully synthetic. Never any clutch issues.
This leads me to believe perhaps the wrong spec fully syntethic oil has been put in in it, if thats for sure what made it slip. Perhaps oil meant for cars? Its a quite common mistake that many people make, perhaps it was the case here as well?
You need to do a complete flush/clean/replace of ALL fluids.
Rebuild/refurbish ALL slave & master cylinders.
Lubricate any cables and lever pivots.
Those are all good things to start with.
Spark plugs too. Carb or throttle body cleaning, fuel injector cleaning as well.
Often these older bikes have stood for a while so the first few months of ownership can be an interesting experience. Keep a few quid back to get it up to a reasonable standard and you'll be fine. Cheaper to buy but often more expensive to run. Re fuel I now run e5 in all my bikes both carb and injection. Its a few pence more but I do get slightly better mpg, doesnt quite even out but close
Set the trip meter for fuel
Sorry to hear that. A new clutch hopefully won't be too challenging to install, but I've never looked into it. Sticky brakes, that's not good. I used to wheelie my first bike by dropping the clutch fast at high revs, but then once I got that out of my system, haven't wheelied since. It's much easier on the chain (it'll last longer), clutch, engine and bike.
Yeah, that clutch slipping means it will need an oil change. That's all. My E2 did it until I did the oil.
I put E5 in my zx12r. I personally wouldn't use E10, especially if the bike isn't being used & the fuel is being left to sit.
Those mirrors love to vibrate 😂, have you set up the suspension for your weight?
Why don't you go to wheelie school as atleast you won't be wrecking any of your bikes in the process 😂
The clutch probably didn't have any freeplay when you bought it and then practicing wheelies would have finished it off and wrecked your headstock bearings at the same time, love your bike and it will love you back, abuse it and pay the price, and yeah the 6 pot Tokico's are notorious for seizing up, having said that it you keep them well maintained there really good.
Sure you used the right engine oil? Mine did that with the clutch so I topped up the oil and it fixed it.
I've got a year 2000,the guy I bought it from had the front brakes stripped and rebuild every year,,,,,,I left them for 18months daily riding later I've just rebuilt them with all new seals,,,they need rebuilding every year,,, it was pretty ugly in there
Personally speaking, stopping consistently and safely would be my priority so I would be getting brake seals and cleaning out the whole system, I know you're working to a price but I wouldn't put a price limit on my brakes, just saying.
Brakes could be the seals in the master cylinder. I think Steve Hornet 900 had the same problem
Adjust the clutch cable, may help?
i had similiar issues and adjusted the cable,,,,titten or loosen it a little.... works fine for 30000km,,,,,
I would use E5 without question. Brake wise the 6 pot Tokinas were always a problem if not regularly serviced. In there day they were the business but always seemed to suffer issues compared to the Nissan 4 pot callipers used on bikes like the Fireblade.
Really nice video.. hows the Benelli treating you?
scrap them 6 pot tokico's, and fit Nissin 4 pots from a Mk1 1200 bandit!
If you, like I do, put the bike away for the winter then definitely put E5 fuel in rather than E10.