2007 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4: Replacing the front CV axle shaft
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
- In this video, I replaced a broken front CV axle shaft on a 2007 Chevy Silverado. This process is similar on Sierra, Tahoe, and Suburban vehicles as well.
Torque specs used in the video:
Inner CV joint flange bolts w/ 15mm head (qty 6) - 58 ft/lbs or 79 Nm
Lower shock absorber bolt w/ 15mm head (qty 2) - 37 ft/lbs or 50 Nm
Upper shock absorber nuts w/ 18mm head (qty 3) - 37 ft/lbs or 50 Nm
Wheel lug nuts w/ 22mm head (qty 6) - 140 ft/lbs or 190 Nm
CV Axle shaft hub nut w/ 35mm or 36mm head (qty 1) - 177 ft/lbs or 240 Nm 
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Thanks for the bonus footage, was interesting
The last one I had to replace was because the axle shaft snapped right at the spines for the inner race. Stock truck, stock tires. Didn’t appear to have been abused or used in 4x4 on dry pavement.
Thanks for posting! I need to do this and it was very instructional.
great tutorial! thanks for posting
WhT happens if I remove it n don’t put it back on ?
Thank for the video bro much help
That is the best way to remove a cv axle/joint..just remove the strut and you have tons of room. And you don't have to worry about removing your upper ball joint on the control arm. Great job!!
It’s my preferred method on these trucks. I know there’s ways to do it without dropping the strut, but everyone has their preferences. Thanks for commenting!
I have a lifted 09 and am about to do the wheel hubs and the cvs on both sides. Do you think I can get the cvs out by just removing the sway bar link? I really don't want to remove the struts if I don't have to.
@@whitecastle3032 yes that should work. I am lifted as well and did the same on my front end overhaul 2 years ago.
@radomark408 I did it already. I didn't have to remove anything on the passenger side and had plenty of room. On the drivers, I removed the sway bar link, and it was a lot tighter of a fit.on the Drivers side it was tough to get in the cv axle
Curious I’m about to get out there and put this in but wondering if I’m going to have a problem there is a like metal splash guard or something near the hub
I’m breaking into my wheel well tomorrow to start collecting tools needed to get to the CV axle. Just gonna do it like that. I don’t have much.z
Dammit i needed that boot 🤣
That Napa part lookin awfully shiny compared to what I was accidentally given instead of the 121$ warranty replacement I should have got at advanced instead when I called to see if the had one in before I dismantled the tank guy said I don’t have any anywhere local or warehouses but I can order you a factory oem no charge
Quick question....I have a 2008, do these years come with an ABS ring on the axle shaft that I have to knock off the old and place on the new?
The tone ring on these trucks is found inside the wheel bearing hub assembly. So there is no tone ring on the axle shafts on these trucks.
Why isn't my strut coming off easy?
Feel pressure going down
What was the sound before I'm looking into possibly changing one and this bound up going down the road
Here's a link to a video on a different GM truck (in this case, a friend's truck if you're wondering about my commentary in the video). This truck also had a broken CV joint. ruclips.net/video/1fRcxq5a6Rg/видео.html
my axel will spin, even with a breaker bar through the lugs, think its broken inside of the boot any advise ?
It is common for these trucks to break the joint inside the boot. Sounds like it is time for you to replace the axle on your truck.
What are the specs for torque on everything ? TY in advance
The torque specs are listed in the video description...but here they are in case it's somehow not showing up:
Torque specs used in the video:
Inner CV joint flange bolts w/ 15mm head (qty 6) - 58 ft/lbs or 79 Nm
Lower shock absorber bolt w/ 15mm head (qty 2) - 37 ft/lbs or 50 Nm
Upper shock absorber nuts w/ 18mm head (qty 3) - 37 ft/lbs or 50 Nm
Wheel lug nuts w/ 22mm head (qty 6) - 140 ft/lbs or 190 Nm
CV Axle shaft hub nut w/ 35mm or 36mm head (qty 1) - 177 ft/lbs or 240 Nm
What happens if you don’t take off the shocks or struts?
Nothing. It wasn't necessary.
Wondering this too. I’d rather not remove the struts and just shimmy the new cv axle in. Here’s to hoping…
Yea my problem on my 2007 someone put level kit on the bottom shaft won't drop down without removing the strut
So do you replace both at the same time or just as they go out !
On my personal rigs, I replace in pairs. On customer vehicles, I give them the option. Most elect to replace just the faulty ones.
Did you buy the 600$ oem version?
Negative. The owner wanted the truck back on the road ASAP, and it's an easy enough part to replace in the event there's an issue with the part. My local NAPA has taken good care of me over the years, on the few instances I've had issues with their parts.
@@AKJeeper I don’t blame you, I got one by accident I came in for a warranty part and I was told they would have to order it and upgrade to a part straight from the factory and I got a peak at the price as everyone tried not to give me the part when it arrived
I don't have to take the strut and shock off
How do you do it? I gotta replace mine tomorrow and I wanna do it a easy way
Do you just take off the sway arm bolt instead?
@@chevy0771 I gotta do the same but don’t take the sway bar arm off that’s 10x harder then just taking the strut out 🫡
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