Great information Ron and very useful. Interesting how the competitive products that we've all used for years to sand and finish our bowling balls have never produced such a video as you just did explaining the virtues of their product.
My Hy-Road was getting "hook-less" and I tried using 1500 with 2 Step and it would work for a while. So, I tried your method but used that drill attachment with the ball bearing spinner and of course your directions with the Tru-Cut pads. NICE! No polishing compound needed. A nice squeeky cover and Good Turn! I will keep track of the number of games before I need to de-oil it and repeat your process so I can compare. I really like the feel of the ball and its reaction in the 3 games I have on the 5200d process so far.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and sharing great information. I have experienced years of frustration trying to resurface my bowling balls with traditional methods. Your TruCut system greatly simplifies the process and makes sense. You have a command of bowling maintenance topics and communicate what could be confusing with easy explanations.
That Jayhawk doesn't lie! The amount of information gathered from the few videos I have seen thusfar from you is simply the most awesome stuff I have learned as a bowler this year. Purchased a set of pads and I look forward to finally getting my arsenal finishes straight! Curious if Storm and other ball manufacturers realize how misleading a 1500 polished label truly is. I see a lot of OOB 1500 polished finishes and I am willing to bet from the factory, ball to ball there are discrepancies. I have a feeling 5000 D will last longer than polish which typically after a league night is already dull. How long have you kept a surface up for? Until it has a few nicks and needs a resurface anyway? This could definitely save time and money vs. me spending all that effort with my spinner restoring surfaces almost constantly. Side note I follow a lot of videos for ball reviews and such that HATE OOB finishes...now we all know why! It isn't truly the surface it is labelled. For me this is a gamechanger. I have used Abralon and Sia air pads and this is clearly better.
Thank you for the support we will have more videos and performance data by the end of next week. Looking forward to showing you some more information about ball surface.
I've been skeptical, and don't always agree with you. But you are using objective data to show how your products perform -- kudos to you. I really like the idea of getting a 'polished" finish using only sanding pads, as I believe it can be much more consistent. I'll be buying some CTD pads and trying this on my (nominally) 1500 polished balls!
I don't understand why this is being called a 1500 grit polished finish The minute the 3000 grit sandpaper hit that ball the 1500 grit was completely eliminated. I would imagine the 5,000p grit would and turn then remove the 3000 grit. So nothing about this ball is 1500 grit unless something else is done to it
The 1500 abralon pads that Storm use do not leave a 1500 grit finish on the ball. It's closer to 4000 on the ball. The polish brings it to 5300-5500 on the ball when scanned.
My ball is a hybrid with factory finish 2000grit. On dry lanes it hook too much that it goes brooklyn all the time or miss head pin. can you suggest a pad to make my ball travels further?
Ronald, still confused on what I would like to do. Could you do a test for me, Two same balls with two different finish process. Ball one. Finish as you have done on the video. Sand 1500, 3000, P5000D and polish. Ball two. Sand with a 1500 pad only, Then used the Polish (1500 polish ?) Then do your surface test and show surface with your magnifying glass scope. Then throw the two balls at the same spots. Looking forward to see results... Thanks
Not sure if you’ll respond to a 4 year old video, but I’m a little confused about the process here. I understand that you used a 1500 trucut sanding to make the ball 1500 grit, but after using the 3000 and 5000d, wouldn’t that make the ball a 5000 grit finish rather than a 1500 polished finish? I’m still rather new, so I’m not understanding. Thanks!
Great video! I'm planning to get some of these pads in the near future. I do have a question though. In earlier videos, you mentioned that you wouldn't need to sand your ball with different grit pads in order to get the finish you want (Ex. if factory finish is 500/1000 you would only need to use the 1000 with trucut). Is that true for this as well? If you skipped the 1500 pad in this video and just used the 3000 and P5000D would there be a difference?
What I said about skipping grits is true all the way up to 2000. If you are going to use P5000D and want that 5000 grit finish you have to have a base grit of 3000 first. You could skip 1500 as long as your bowling ball was not at say 500 grit to start.
Mr Hickland... question for you. This video was posted some time ago. You recently posted a video on resurfacing a 1500 grit polished ball but u used higher grits to start? What the difference with the two videos?
The finished surface was a difference of approximately 500? Is this not relevant? Why do we have Tru Cut and abralon pads that are in 500 increments if that number is not relevant?
I’m sure I must be dumb or missed something here, but how does taking the ball and sanding up to the 5000p pad make the ball a 1500 grit polished ball. That reader clearly indicates it’s at 5000 grit polished.... What did I miss. Signed a dumb league bowler.
1500 Grit polish is the name of a product. The actual surface of a 1500 grit polished ball is a 5500 grit surface. To put that surface on a ball using the CtD Tru cut pad, we have to start at more course grit (1500 grit --> 3000 grit) to ensure the surface of the ball is cut and then work up to the higher grit surface (P5000D grit). Then finish with the 5500 grit polish powered by Turtle Wax to complete the polish.
Hey Rob, first thanks for these videos. This is my first time on a league, and would like to get more hook at the end with my Ebonite Cylone ( all stock ) would you recommend that I have the house Bowling shop pro watch me throw before attempting any of these modifications you’re showing? Thank you.
Hello yes having a qualified pro shop take a look at your game will help get you in the right direction. We also have lots of blogs and videos on our website ctdbowling.com
Ron you have confused me with your video. If I wanted the ball to be at 1000, I should be able to get a tru cut 1000 pad and sand 4 sides on a machine why bring it to 5000D?
There is 2 different grit metrics, when your talking about abralon pad that's a over seas measurement. So his p5000 pad gives you a US 1500 polish finish, if you wanted 1000 then just hit it with a 1000 pad and nothing else. So if you want a number you just sand it to that number, the ball will not be shiny just dull at that grit. His P5000 pad gives the illusion that you polished your ball without polish. So it's like taking a 1500 grit pad then applying polish on the ball to achieve that 4000 to 5000 grit finish
only 1 question i have left. many bowling balls come 500/1000 polished. what does that equate to in grit? and what would get us bowlers the closest to that finish using trucut?
So it seems like adding a Polish to 500, 1000 or 1500 grit will automatically scan at 5000. Is they're still a difference in ball reaction with any of the 3? Or with using Tru cut, going from 1500, 3000 to 5000d? I guess I could see the Tru cut method hooking a little more cause it doesn't have an actual Polish wax on the ball. But what about the other 3?
Ron, the bowling ball was a little over 2000grit before You started the process why did you take down to 1500 grit before going to 3000 grit? Could you have just started with 3000 grit? I just purchased some pads and just want to do this right. Thanks.
His pads are made for a bowling ball and that 2000 already on the ball might mess with the consistency of the outcome, you always want to start low and work your way up. Even if you used his method and and the ball was already 4000 you would still start low, just using a 5000 pad over and over is gonna give you different surfaces over time if you don't do a full consistant resurface
Ronald, I followed you steps in this video to get a TruCut 1500 grit polish and it looks and works great. Shot a 191, 198, 212. My question is now that I went through this process how do I maintain this type of finish. Thanks, Wayne
All you knowledge is great and Thank You for that! So I have 2 Pearls a sapphire IQ Tour and a Dual Lock by Storm I love and I just keep them protected and clean with So fresh and so clean and that Purple Stuff. I haven't used a CTD pad on these balls yet and they get me to the pocket so I going to keep them as is and do what I've been doing. They both come from the factory at 1500 grit polished which is what you showed the ball at here which is really 5000 or so ;) Here is my question. I also have 2 solids that I love and they are the first 2 out of my bag for me normally. A Roto Grip Wild Streak and The Sauce by Hammer which came out the box at 3000 and 2000 respectively. So as the months have gone by and with not bowling for a bit thing were not the same with these balls getting started again. So I've re-added surface to each to try to get them both to out of the box finish again which is what I liked for my house shots with these ball in the area and this is what I did ;). >>> I used a 3000 on the Wild Streak and then a 2000 grit CTD pad on The Sauce and then applied so fresh and so clean and then that purple stuff to get them ready. I'm try to get them back to where I used them out of the box. I know I needs to adjust to seasons and what I'm doing and the pads losing some grit over time but am I on the right "track" I didn't add any of the polish what I did is what was said above. So please help and tell me if I'm on the correct path! Sorry for the rant, but you got back to me so fast on the clear process and I just use your products only. ;) Keep Doing What you Do! CHEERS and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
You are headed down the right path. Consider joining our staff for free. There are even more resources to help you understand more about ball surface and changes. ctdbowling.com
im thinking about doing this to my phaze II to give it more length before it hooks. do I need to keep repeating this process or will these shiny results last?
I know this video is old Ron, Maybe you will see this. How often would I have to repeat this process to maintain that surface, really until I would start to notice a performance difference?
3000 will remove 1500 completely. So you should use the 1500 if you have a lower number grit on the ball to start with like 1000 or 500. Otherwise there isn't a difference.
Why not go straight Into the p5000 since it’s trucut ? That would make it polished already instead of going from 1500 3000 then polish like other pads such as abralon
Performance bowling balls have a porous coverstock. Do you want to spend the money on a performance bowling ball and then clog up the pores with a polishing product? Maybe you do (whatever it takes to get a good ball reaction and score!) but this is a way to get a similar grit finish without the chance that you are clogging the pores.
@@Ctdbowling I don't understand why the brand new ball says its 1500 polished, when it's really 5,000 polished! I have the new Trend ball which is also 1,500 polished surface! I figured once I get alot of games on it and it needs resurfaced, I would buy a 1,500 pad then add polish, like the box says
I forgot to mention i have a ball spinner. Would i follow the advise you gave earlier or would it be different with the ball spinner. Thank you for your quick response.
im lost. it says 1500 yet its actually 5000? im new to all this ball maintenance. just got a kit for doing this to see if i can get my game better. anyway like the videos and they are probably gonna help me as my hook is nothing like it use to be
@@Ctdbowling ahh.. thanks for that! So do we need to apply polish after sanding or just go with your video instructions? 1500, 3000 and finishes it off with 4000 pad?
Someone failed to mention that if you apply pressure while applying Step 2, the ball will become polished but dull due to the abrasives in the polish. So no, it won't be 5000 grit if you do that.
So is this how I would sand my Roto Grip pearl coverstock Wreck em? Yesterday I sanded it with 1500 and 2000, and I've lost the hook. It just rolls long and no hook.
Hit it with 600 and then 1500 2000. The 600 will give the bite on the backend and the 1500 2000 will not take out the 600 but will get you through the heads
@@Ctdbowling I found this link on the CTD bowling website that was very helpful. ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-sanding-and-bowling-balls
A 1500 grit polish (which is just a name) finish scans at 5000 grit (which is the actual finish). So we are showing you how to get that same finish with sanding pads (5000 grit).
Great information Ron and very useful. Interesting how the competitive products that we've all used for years to sand and finish our bowling balls have never produced such a video as you just did explaining the virtues of their product.
My Hy-Road was getting "hook-less" and I tried using 1500 with 2 Step and it would work for a while. So, I tried your method but used that drill attachment with the ball bearing spinner and of course your directions with the Tru-Cut pads. NICE! No polishing compound needed. A nice squeeky cover and Good Turn! I will keep track of the number of games before I need to de-oil it and repeat your process so I can compare. I really like the feel of the ball and its reaction in the 3 games I have on the 5200d process so far.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and sharing great information. I have experienced years of frustration trying to resurface my bowling balls with traditional methods. Your TruCut system greatly simplifies the process and makes sense. You have a command of bowling maintenance topics and communicate what could be confusing with easy explanations.
I bought myself 1000 grit surface pads and it brought my intense fire back to life. On a house shot I did it before my League
That Jayhawk doesn't lie! The amount of information gathered from the few videos I have seen thusfar from you is simply the most awesome stuff I have learned as a bowler this year. Purchased a set of pads and I look forward to finally getting my arsenal finishes straight! Curious if Storm and other ball manufacturers realize how misleading a 1500 polished label truly is. I see a lot of OOB 1500 polished finishes and I am willing to bet from the factory, ball to ball there are discrepancies. I have a feeling 5000 D will last longer than polish which typically after a league night is already dull.
How long have you kept a surface up for? Until it has a few nicks and needs a resurface anyway?
This could definitely save time and money vs. me spending all that effort with my spinner restoring surfaces almost constantly.
Side note I follow a lot of videos for ball reviews and such that HATE OOB finishes...now we all know why! It isn't truly the surface it is labelled. For me this is a gamechanger. I have used Abralon and Sia air pads and this is clearly better.
Thank you for the support we will have more videos and performance data by the end of next week. Looking forward to showing you some more information about ball surface.
I've been skeptical, and don't always agree with you. But you are using objective data to show how your products perform -- kudos to you. I really like the idea of getting a 'polished" finish using only sanding pads, as I believe it can be much more consistent. I'll be buying some CTD pads and trying this on my (nominally) 1500 polished balls!
Got the pads, did the process, now we'll see the results on the lane later this week.
@@pat5873 … Mo Pinel is completely "against" using polish on a bowling ball no matter the circumstance.
@@pat5873 Definitely consistent and no more messy polishes. Best of luck to you
I don't understand why this is being called a 1500 grit polished finish
The minute the 3000 grit sandpaper hit that ball the 1500 grit was completely eliminated.
I would imagine the 5,000p grit would and turn then remove the 3000 grit.
So nothing about this ball is 1500 grit unless something else is done to it
The 1500 abralon pads that Storm use do not leave a 1500 grit finish on the ball. It's closer to 4000 on the ball. The polish brings it to 5300-5500 on the ball when scanned.
The ball isn’t 1500 grit like the video states. IDC what Storm says.
My ball is a hybrid with factory finish 2000grit. On dry lanes it hook too much that it goes brooklyn all the time or miss head pin. can you suggest a pad to make my ball travels further?
Just got a tournament kit and the turtle wax polish delivered today. Looks like good products. Looking forward to trying them out.
Can I use 500 grit abralon on my ripd solid and then finish with 2000 grit as it was the factory out of box finish? No polish or dull.
Do I use this same procedure to create other finishes such as a 2000 grit polished finish
Great info an products now will be able to created the the correct surfaces on my equipment.
Ronald, still confused on what I would like to do. Could you do a test for me, Two same balls with two different finish process.
Ball one. Finish as you have done on the video. Sand 1500, 3000, P5000D and polish.
Ball two. Sand with a 1500 pad only, Then used the Polish (1500 polish ?)
Then do your surface test and show surface with your magnifying glass scope. Then throw the two balls at the same spots.
Looking forward to see results... Thanks
what would a 3000 grit ball polished read on the scanner?
Not sure if you’ll respond to a 4 year old video, but I’m a little confused about the process here. I understand that you used a 1500 trucut sanding to make the ball 1500 grit, but after using the 3000 and 5000d, wouldn’t that make the ball a 5000 grit finish rather than a 1500 polished finish? I’m still rather new, so I’m not understanding. Thanks!
After going through other comments, I think I understand a bit more, haha.
Great video! I'm planning to get some of these pads in the near future. I do have a question though. In earlier videos, you mentioned that you wouldn't need to sand your ball with different grit pads in order to get the finish you want (Ex. if factory finish is 500/1000 you would only need to use the 1000 with trucut). Is that true for this as well? If you skipped the 1500 pad in this video and just used the 3000 and P5000D would there be a difference?
What I said about skipping grits is true all the way up to 2000. If you are going to use P5000D and want that 5000 grit finish you have to have a base grit of 3000 first. You could skip 1500 as long as your bowling ball was not at say 500 grit to start.
Mr Hickland... question for you. This video was posted some time ago. You recently posted a video on resurfacing a 1500 grit polished ball but u used higher grits to start? What the difference with the two videos?
Please post a link to the other video and I will be more than happy to get you a response.
The finished surface was a difference of approximately 500? Is this not relevant? Why do we have Tru Cut and abralon pads that are in 500 increments if that number is not relevant?
I’m sure I must be dumb or missed something here, but how does taking the ball and sanding up to the 5000p pad make the ball a 1500 grit polished ball. That reader clearly indicates it’s at 5000 grit polished....
What did I miss.
Signed a dumb league bowler.
1500 Grit polish is the name of a product. The actual surface of a 1500 grit polished ball is a 5500 grit surface. To put that surface on a ball using the CtD Tru cut pad, we have to start at more course grit (1500 grit --> 3000 grit) to ensure the surface of the ball is cut and then work up to the higher grit surface (P5000D grit). Then finish with the 5500 grit polish powered by Turtle Wax to complete the polish.
Hey Rob, first thanks for these videos. This is my first time on a league, and would like to get more hook at the end with my Ebonite Cylone ( all stock ) would you recommend that I have the house Bowling shop pro watch me throw before attempting any of these modifications you’re showing? Thank you.
Hello yes having a qualified pro shop take a look at your game will help get you in the right direction. We also have lots of blogs and videos on our website ctdbowling.com
Ronald Hickland Jr Thank you Sir.🙂
Ron you have confused me with your video. If I wanted the ball to be at 1000, I should be able to get a tru cut 1000 pad and sand 4 sides on a machine why bring it to 5000D?
There is 2 different grit metrics, when your talking about abralon pad that's a over seas measurement. So his p5000 pad gives you a US 1500 polish finish, if you wanted 1000 then just hit it with a 1000 pad and nothing else. So if you want a number you just sand it to that number, the ball will not be shiny just dull at that grit. His P5000 pad gives the illusion that you polished your ball without polish. So it's like taking a 1500 grit pad then applying polish on the ball to achieve that 4000 to 5000 grit finish
@@brettrobbins2707 Thanks for this information.
I got the spinner kit I put it on my drill can I resurface my ball with that trying to get my axiom pearl back to 1500 grit polish finish
hy didn't you eliminate the engraving readings when you were scanning?
@Ronald Hickland Jr, how can all of this be done by hand?
You can not easily get the ball to 5000 at least for another 45 days. Make sure you go to ctdbowling.com then and see what's next.
only 1 question i have left. many bowling balls come 500/1000 polished. what does that equate to in grit? and what would get us bowlers the closest to that finish using trucut?
They will scan at 5000 grit. So 3000 grit followed by P5000D.
So it seems like adding a Polish to 500, 1000 or 1500 grit will automatically scan at 5000. Is they're still a difference in ball reaction with any of the 3? Or with using Tru cut, going from 1500, 3000 to 5000d? I guess I could see the Tru cut method hooking a little more cause it doesn't have an actual Polish wax on the ball. But what about the other 3?
Watch this ruclips.net/video/XbDj4P2hmRw/видео.html.
Then watch this ruclips.net/video/joLBy0e5WHQ/видео.html
Ron, the bowling ball was a little over 2000grit before You started the process why did you take down to 1500 grit before going to 3000 grit? Could you have just started with 3000 grit? I just purchased some pads and just want to do this right. Thanks.
His pads are made for a bowling ball and that 2000 already on the ball might mess with the consistency of the outcome, you always want to start low and work your way up. Even if you used his method and and the ball was already 4000 you would still start low, just using a 5000 pad over and over is gonna give you different surfaces over time if you don't do a full consistant resurface
Ronald, I followed you steps in this video to get a TruCut 1500 grit polish and it looks and works great. Shot a 191, 198, 212. My question is now that I went through this process how do I maintain this type of finish. Thanks, Wayne
Nice bowling Wayne. You will just need to maintain it using the same steps every 20 to 30 games depending on the lanes you are bowling on
All you knowledge is great and Thank You for that!
So I have 2 Pearls a sapphire IQ Tour and a Dual Lock by Storm I love and I just keep them protected and clean with So fresh and so clean and that Purple Stuff. I haven't used a CTD pad on these balls yet and they get me to the pocket so I going to keep them as is and do what I've been doing. They both come from the factory at 1500 grit polished which is what you showed the ball at here which is really 5000 or so ;)
Here is my question. I also have 2 solids that I love and they are the first 2 out of my bag for me normally. A Roto Grip Wild Streak and The Sauce by Hammer which came out the box at 3000 and 2000 respectively.
So as the months have gone by and with not bowling for a bit thing were not the same with these balls getting started again. So I've re-added surface to each to try to get them both to out of the box finish again which is what I liked for my house shots with these ball in the area and this is what I did ;). >>> I used a 3000 on the Wild Streak and then a 2000 grit CTD pad on The Sauce and then applied so fresh and so clean and then that purple stuff to get them ready. I'm try to get them back to where I used them out of the box. I know I needs to adjust to seasons and what I'm doing and the pads losing some grit over time but am I on the right "track" I didn't add any of the polish what I did is what was said above.
So please help and tell me if I'm on the correct path! Sorry for the rant, but you got back to me so fast on the clear process and I just use your products only. ;) Keep Doing What you Do!
CHEERS and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
You are headed down the right path. Consider joining our staff for free. There are even more resources to help you understand more about ball surface and changes. ctdbowling.com
How much pressure do you use when holding the pad?
Medium pressure
im thinking about doing this to my phaze II to give it more length before it hooks. do I need to keep repeating this process or will these shiny results last?
You will need to repeat the process as the ball begins to wear.
How would I get my ball back too a 4000 grit matte finish? Sand it with 500 grit then p5000d?
2000,3000 P5000D by hand
What ball spinner are you using?
I know this video is old Ron, Maybe you will see this. How often would I have to repeat this process to maintain that surface, really until I would start to notice a performance difference?
Jeramie Scott you need to resurface you’re bowling balls every 6-9 games
@@icykhan32 touch up surface or resurface. Cause a resurface seems like a lot after just 9 games
Hi, what is the difference in reaction from using 1500, 3000, P5000 as opposed to going 3000, P5000?
3000 will remove 1500 completely. So you should use the 1500 if you have a lower number grit on the ball to start with like 1000 or 500. Otherwise there isn't a difference.
So for a storm mix at 3500 grit polished, is it safe to assume it would read about 7000 grit as opposed to 1500 grit polished (reading at 5000)?
The highest reading we have seen is 6500 a mix is a polished urethane ball. So you would use a ball polish after you get it to 5000 grit.
Ronald Hickland Jr understood. thanks for the fast reply!
This is very helpful but i have a dv8 pitbull that says factory finesh is 500 and 1000 siaar grit what is that mean?
Check this out for details.ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-sanding-and-bowling-balls
Confused! If the box says 1500 finish, how come that machine reads it at around 5,000?
The polish has 1500 grit polish, it's storm 1500 grit polish that u can buy
Why not go straight Into the p5000 since it’s trucut ? That would make it polished already instead of going from 1500 3000 then polish like other pads such as abralon
Nvm I understand what you were doing... can it be done by hand also?
Hey buddy at the end you mention that there is no more filler and the ball is really tacky, what do you mean by no more filler?
The filler is the material used to keep the grit in suspension.
Performance bowling balls have a porous coverstock. Do you want to spend the money on a performance bowling ball and then clog up the pores with a polishing product? Maybe you do (whatever it takes to get a good ball reaction and score!) but this is a way to get a similar grit finish without the chance that you are clogging the pores.
Okay.. Never seen that computer in proshop
I don't understand....the ball calls for a 1500 grit surface , why would you use a 5000 grit pad ?
Watch the video again please.
@@Ctdbowling I don't understand why the brand new ball says its 1500 polished, when it's really 5,000 polished! I have the new Trend ball which is also 1,500 polished surface! I figured once I get alot of games on it and it needs resurfaced, I would buy a 1,500 pad then add polish, like the box says
@@darksidebilly ruclips.net/video/joLBy0e5WHQ/видео.html
I have a cobra venom the finish is 5500 grit lsp. How would i achieve this finish with the trucut pads
4000 grit then TruCut hand applied Polish Powered by Turtle Wax be hand
I forgot to mention i have a ball spinner. Would i follow the advise you gave earlier or would it be different with the ball spinner. Thank you for your quick response.
@@mikedunkerley3924 you can do the same thing as earlier
was he using water to keep the pad wet?
Yes.
I have the hyroad x and the ebonite zebra 4
Is the shinier the more spin or less spin
Shiny adds more length to your ball
What grit cuts the most higher or lower?
Lower
im lost. it says 1500 yet its actually 5000? im new to all this ball maintenance. just got a kit for doing this to see if i can get my game better. anyway like the videos and they are probably gonna help me as my hook is nothing like it use to be
Read this. ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-sanding-and-bowling-balls
Can we just sand the ball with 1500 trucut and apply polish to the ball?
Unfortunately that will not work
@@Ctdbowling ahh.. thanks for that! So do we need to apply polish after sanding or just go with your video instructions? 1500, 3000 and finishes it off with 4000 pad?
I’m so new to bowling everything sounded so confusing 😆 I have axiom pearl just bought trucut pads and master surfaces kit
Watch this ruclips.net/video/joLBy0e5WHQ/видео.html
I have your 1000 pad. Can I start there instead of 1500 ?
Yes
Someone failed to mention that if you apply pressure while applying Step 2, the ball will become polished but dull due to the abrasives in the polish. So no, it won't be 5000 grit if you do that.
Lol that's not how it's used nor recommended to be used. This is actual proof of what happens not what we think will happen.
So if my ball says 500/1000 polish how would u do it.
ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-polish-and-bowling-balls
Read this ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-polish-and-bowling-balls
So is this how I would sand my Roto Grip pearl coverstock Wreck em? Yesterday I sanded it with 1500 and 2000, and I've lost the hook. It just rolls long and no hook.
Hit it with 600 and then 1500 2000. The 600 will give the bite on the backend and the 1500 2000 will not take out the 600 but will get you through the heads
@@kylewagner6607 I ended up sanding it again with a 500, then 1500, 2000 and the P5000. And it's back to normal, thankfully.
Why is it called a 1500 grit finish if the end result is 5000 grit?
Because the grit in the polish they use breaks down to 1500 grit. We are talking about the grit left on the ball which is what actually matters.
@@Ctdbowling thanks for such a quick response. So a 1500 grit polish produces a 5000 grit finish on the ball. Do I understand that correctly?
@@OrlandoRodriguezlilisdad correct
@@Ctdbowling I found this link on the CTD bowling website that was very helpful. ctdbowling.com/blogs/news/an-understanding-of-sanding-and-bowling-balls
1500 grit? but the scanner read 5k. I dont get it.
only doit when ball is no reactive no more
What am I missing? The title says "How to get 1500 grit shiny" but the video shows how to get to 5000 shiny.
A 1500 grit polish (which is just a name) finish scans at 5000 grit (which is the actual finish). So we are showing you how to get that same finish with sanding pads (5000 grit).
@@Ctdbowling, thanks for the quick reply. I really enjoy your videos.
@@Ctdbowling Will I get the same result with a Trucut 1000 grit pad plus a Trucut hand applied polish?
@@isaaclasekan6726 you have to go through the steps to get to 5500.
ruclips.net/video/CoTLkSsCM7c/видео.html
Hello Ron where the pro shop you working out of.