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Rusty Frame Repair Dodge Dakota Part 2 - Patching Frame Rear Section
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2021
- This is the second part in my Dodge Dakota frame repair series. In this video, I show how to cut out the rusty areas of the frame and weld in patches to fix the rear frame section. If you haven't seen it, check out part 1, too. I hope you enjoy!
working on a 98 dodge frame from jersey this is certainly assisting in the planning.
Ooof. Good luck. I've seen a lot of New York cars rusted to bits. I'm assuming New Jersey is the same.
pretty ambitious project, wanting to do same thing to my truck, truck has been bulletproof and reliable and would like to save it
It took, I think, 3 months for me to do the cab corners and the frame repair. But so far, so good. I haven't had any trouble with rust returning or bolts coming loose.
Robert, thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have the same truck and the frame is much worse than yours. I saw that you have Colorado plates and wanted to tell you that I lived in Broomfield and road my bikes with the Louisville cycling club. I recently got a wahoo setup for indoors too. You are really talented!
Thanks, Winn. When I got it, it was in much, much worse condition. It sat abandoned in a field for 10 years and was badly infested with mice. If you’re interested, Here’s the build thread I made back when I first got the truck. It’s a fun read.
www.planetisuzoo.com/threads/dorodango-dodge-dakota.134501/
@@RobertAdairWorkshop My goodness, you are right. Wow, my interior is nothing like what you have had to deal with. Robert, you must have an engineering degree. You do such awesome work. Very attention to detail and not afraid to tackle items that even dealership mechanics would not go to the trouble in earning their income. I appreciate the information that you share. There is a company called LMC that sells a lot of interior and panel parts if you need something. They really cover a lot of the older trucks and seem to favor the Chevrolet and Ford vehicles. I used to be a helicopter mechanic in the Army after completing my first enlistment in the Infantry. I really like doing good work like you on my own.
Slowly working on a 04 dakota v6 quad cab 4x4. Good stuff man !
Is yours rusty were mine was?
I didn't get a chance to look at the back end , been sorting the front out. Replaced the whole thing. Ill let ya know when I get the bed off.
You do good work! Is that a Hobart Handler 140 MIG welder you have? I have that model, and it's a quality unit.
One tool you may want to consider is a plasma cutter. Much easier than using a grinder and reciprocating saw.
Hey, thanks! Yeah, it is a Hobart 140. I've never used it on gas, just flux core, and it's been a great welder. I've seen some cheap plasma cutters online but I've been skeptical. Any recommendations?
@@RobertAdairWorkshop Yes, I bought a model called Cut-40 from JEGS, the online performance parts distributor. It's a bargain at $300. The tool has lots of good reviews. I used it to fabricate frame brackets for my truck, and it makes metal cutting pleasurable.
@@kenc.9067 Awesome. I'll check it out. I have to do the p-side cab corner and fix some rust on the p-side door skin. It'd come in handy.
Nice work , organized and as a bonus a good result too! 👍😎
Awesome. Thank you Anthony.
I found your video for the rear bed rigg. Nice build idea.
Thank you erty1. They are 2x6’s. The bed isn’t very heavy but the wider boards provide some rigidity.
@@RobertAdairWorkshop I have a short bed, it should work out for me. Thanks again.
nice job, my truck is a lot worse. where did you get your patch panels?
Thanks Tom! They were 12"x24" sheets of 3/16" steel. I got them on eBay. The panels aren't too expensive but they will get you on shipping.
Is their a way to just weld the rear tail section to the main frame so that way their is no samwitch plates wear the water can sit fuck packing it with grease or fluid film every couple months I want it one and done fixed I have structural rust right in that same spot to
Yeah, probably. You'd want to make sure you had overlapping material and welds so the structural integrity of the frame wasn't solely contingent on the welds. In other words, you wouldn't want the welds to crack and have the frame fail. But some lap-type patches welded in ought to work. You would still need to drill and bolt that front leaf spring pearch.
Did you use 1/8” plate ?
I used 3/16" but had to bevel it down on the edges to match the frame. The frame had lost some material so it wasn't 3/16" thick anymore. 1/8" would probably be best and save you some $$.