RV Furnace REPAIR TECHNICIAN SECRETS Top 3 anyone can do PARTS BELOW
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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If the info helps, donate to the channel with www.buymeacoffee.com/JOHNDANIEL - Universal Run Delay Relay amzn.to/36MXTrR Universal High Limit Over temp Switch (get 120°C/248°F Normally Closed N.C Snap Disc Temperature Switch) amzn.to/36Jtbjh
John Daniel, any ideas on a heater that only works when you pull the board plate and cover down? My guess is airflow but I’m not sure. Thanks !
Hey where is limit switch location on a suburban nt-20sq furnace
GG[oo[[[[[[
John Daniel could you please help me. Our 2000 Colemans furnace/ac aren't working. We thought wed start with the thermostat but putting a new one in had no effect and still does absolutely nothing. Doesnt even attempt to start. Please help. We are living in it now and really need this to work without a complete replacement. Thanks in advance
John Daniel, I need help trying to find the exhaust tubing that is on the inside of my furnace. Would you know where I could find it? It's 1"3/8 od by 14" long. Please help. 🙏
Thank you for not over complicating things.
You're welcome!
Never done the tip jar before but you just saved me a ton of headache…Thank you.!
I've been pulling my hair out for months trying to get a Duo Therm 66117 running in the old Skamper popup I bought last summer. I've read the manual, read every forum thread, and watched ever video I can find on these. No matter what I tried the dang thing would not run more than a few seconds before it would blow the flame out, do the single retry, then lock itself out. Unless I pulled the unit out of the camper and ran it on an external propane supply, then it ran fine. That pointed to a problem with the camper's propane supply pressure so I completely redid everything there and still the same result. I even pulled the camper's propane bottle and regulator to do the bench test and it was fine, just not when installed in the cabinet. I tested the sail switch, the gas valve, the line pressure, tried adjusting the burner pipe's intake air damper a few different ways, and nothing worked. I must have had that thing pulled out and back in six times before I realized the dang flue pipe telescopes in and out of the combustion chamber. Turns out when it was installed it wasn't quite poking all the way into the center of the direct vent fitting on the outside of the camper, and there was just enough of a gap there that as soon as the flame lit, it would start sucking exhaust gas into the combustion air intake, which would suffocate the flame within seconds. It was a bear getting the flue pipe centered and pulled all the way into the external housing but as soon as I accomplished that the heater ran like a champ. If anything at 17kBtu it's way too big for this tiny camper but I'll probably never use it for more than taking the edge off when I get up on a cold morning. I'm just glad I finally figured out what the problem was.
You fogot to mention that sometimes the sail switch will have dog hair or dust that prevents contact and a simple cleaning will make furnace work👍
I just used contact cleaner on my sail switch.
That’s what was wrong with mine last year. But I couldn’t get to it. So … I have to call the rv guy 🥴 I’m use to fixing things myself! But too old and weak now.
Thank you. Your the best how to fix heaters vids on internet. Simple easy to understand and i fixed mine and several neighbors heaters now. Beautiful ❤️. Your a natural at this.
I like this guy he's thorough but at the same time quick he gets to the point I like that. Keep it up buddy.
John ,Thank You , Heater Is Running On The Test Bench ! Getting Ready To Install ! Thanks You Again !
Thank you there John. My great, great grandad was named John Daniel!
Thank you very much for the brutal honest problems that can come up. I been looking for that relay switch with no luck. I have an older RV and thank you very much for your knowledge in replacing and thank you for the link.
Such a helpful video! Just pulled out the suburban DD-17DSI from my 97 flagstaff popup and found that the sail switch/leaf switch was bad. It would show continuity when open, however, there was 500 ohms resistance across the sail switch was I think is an indicator of a bad switch. I took the wires off of either end of the sail switch and was connected them together, and everything fired right up first time. My symptoms prior to this were no spark and gas, but the fan would run.
This is a great video, I’m mechanically inclined, but shooting in the dark for furnace/HVAC. Thanks!
I just got three campers and I was researching heat maintenance and you are awesome.
Thanks for your help!
Very good video . my furnace just quit now I'm not so scared to look into it . not many furnace repair people close by in my area plus I don't care to spend 100$ an hour to have it looked at. Thank you and love the dogs.
Thank you! It sounds like that thermal disk is probably my problem. We get the fan going but some clicking and sometimes and other times it fires and works. This seems like a symptom of that disk sometimes sticking, now i know how to jump it if it won’t fire to test that theory.
As a young confused guy, this is probably the best video on this subject ever. I do have a question tho, the heater in my 1983 camper is definitely missing that circuit board (if it's supposed to have one?).
If it looks just like this one then yes it's should have one, but if it has a pilot light then it is a hydraulic action gas valve and the last of the non electric style.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 okay, mine looked similar, but is a lot older. I had later found a slightly more relevant video that helped me as well. Having watched your video, I at least can troubleshoot one of I ever get myself a new camper.
Well done man! It sure is a pleasure to watch a man that actually knows what he's talking about and explains it for even the dumbest of the people out there to understand. Well maybe not the dumbest.
What great info... I've had to change my leaf switch before. They tried to tell me it was in my board.
Hi John one of my propane RV furnaces squeals when first being turned on usually then it usually eventually stops is that the blower going out or what do you think that it? Thank you
Excellent video, straight to the point. Just bought a 30 year old RV in excellent condition, very clean unit inside & out. Furnace like yours, very very clean. Was just working few days ago, now not. Fan blows, hear solenoid click, I'd get a BOOM of flame, then out & nothing more. Bypassed over temp switch. Checked sail switch (good). Opened it up, NO obstructions, very clean inside, Removed burner, checked & cleaned with Carb cleaner. Checked "jet" orifice. Any ideas???
This is the first video I've seen of yours and you do such a great job explaining the process. Not just what to do but why to do it. Plus real life tips and tricks. You would make a great teacher/journeyman. Thank you.
I taught over 50 Juvenile probation kids in a 12 year period, 16 and under to weld, do automotive electrical and RV repair as a condition of rehab and had a good success rate. My wifes work brought home LOL!
Thank you John. Easy to understand.
I am so sick of fixing my stupid furnace. Changed the igniter board 3 times, fail switch twice (changed the s to an f because I found it more suitable), thermostat once, and the high limit once.
Furnace is a dometic (Atwood) hydroflame and only a year old. Had issues since new lol...
I went to a Dino board and that solved the ignition issues, and so far, it's been good for about 3 weeks. Good for this particular unit lol
The problem is these stupid little parts are really expensive in Canada! Like that sail switch. It's just a standard d41x microswitch which you can get for like three bucks on eBay. Call it a sail switch, and suddenly they're 50! So I bought a few micro switches and now I just put that aluminum sail on whatever switch I'm using lol
Great video thank you for your expertise.
Thank you for a very detailed video.
Thank you for the great information about this furnace, definitely you deserve one more subscriber, thanks again
Thanks for keeping it simple and for the money saving tips
Thanks man, I viewed 3 other sites and you my friend, have the easiest to understand and most complete descriptions of my Atwood 7900-ii issues. Fixed in mere moments.
I have one like yours. what fixed yours and could you tell me where the sail switch is and how to get to it.
“Well, Dc Amperage don’t give a damn”
Is now my favorite quote 😂😂
Great ,common sense.!
You rock sir. As a semi clueless self repair person I was able to follow your instructions easily.
I may have missed an instruction about the " reset " button ? Maybe it's called one of those other names for stuff to check.
Anyhow. Your easy to follow instructions helped me find a white button . I pushed it as a last ditch attempt before yanking out the whole heater Assembly. We are back up and toasty warm again. Thank you. Also thanks to your other people comments. That was another big help. 🙃🙃🙃
My house microwave has killed 2 thermal switches. I like my bacon extra crispy!!!!!! Easy to fix but they use those security screws that require the special sockets to turn them.
Good info here as I'm in the process of getting my Coach awake again after a 5 year nap while the wife and I have been fighting cancers. Just rebuilt the refrigerator that lost it's magic smoke! LOL. Wife is facing round 2 and we want to use our bus while we can. Thanks Pardner!
I have this exact furnace and you totally showed me what was wrong. Bought the part through your link. Thanks from eastern Idaho.
Found you great video when I encountered furnace problems tonight. Will be ordering all these parts to have on hand for my furnace. My prob was easy fix...Bus wasn't level so was throwing off my temp switch. Instead of leveling bus I just took all but 1 screw out and swiveled the thermostat level.
This video is incredible for overall troubleshooting but c'mon people, he ain't the google machine! If you need to know where a part is on your specific model look up the schematics for chrysler sake! I found the schematics for my apartment furnace manufactured in 1972. Detailed enough for someone with zero experience to troubleshoot and rewire it. This video right here is an awesome lesson, wisdom you won't find in a manual, don't pollute it with silly questions you could find on search page 1!
Good morning John. Ok the motor was the issue so replace it put it all back together. And developed another issue so the new issue is everything will come on start blowing heat and then within a minute or two it’ll shut off the gas and no heat. I hear it clicking and will not ignite again unless I turn it off completely from the thermostat and wait about 10 to 15 minutes.
Thanks 🙏🏾
The igniter, It's allowed 90 seconds max to get up to 50mv feedback to the board if it don't the power from the relay on the board to the gas cuts off, then will off cycle till you restart it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1thank you for helping me out.
so your saying. The relay is bad? And need to replace the borad
@@guymiller9212 No, the igniter if its got one with flame sensing, more than one probe on it, it sparks in the combustion chamber and the flame will heat up the special metal on one tip and through the ground circuit will tell the board successful fire has been achieved. Your coil on your board feeds it spark, its in the burn box part. Pull it out, examine it, if it has 2 or more probes on it, replace it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 ok will do thanks very much. Will keep you posted.
I have a hydro flame model 7920. It will turn the fan on with out the thermostat being turned on and won’t shut off till I shut done the main camper power or remove wire from circuit breaker in unit. I can not figure out what is wrong . Because it was working just fine and now it’s doing this . Not sure if it’s wiring or the actual thermostat. Because I have changed almost everything other than the limit switch . If you have any advice would love to hear . Thanks ! You helped me fix my furnace the first time and now this is happening . Thanks again video really helped .
Replaced the sail switch in my old suburban, now it stopped trying to light (no fuel no spark) and blowing cold again. Bypassed the sail switch and no change. Gonna have to test all these bits i guess. Thanks for the video.
Manually press the sail switch to see if its just not making full contact when fire up happens. If its out of the case it can act like its not getting enough pressure, and some switches may have too small a flag on them to keep it connected the full 2 seconds the board needs to see to react.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Hey, thanks for the reply! I've already tried eliminating it with a jumper. Gonna check the igniter for open circuit too.
Thank you so much you made this so easy to understand for a first timer I can't wait to pull mine out and hopefully fix it for so much less than I thought I'll be sure to come back to this video and let you know my progress
My kids convinced me to put a buy me a coffee link below the videos now to help fund us for getting more equipment to start doing a little better videos. So if you want to see more, and more in depth ones and get answers the best I can that's the best way that we figured out how to do it
Thank You. Lots of great tips on what to check before wasting money on the wrong parts. This knowledge and these skills are becoming a rare commodity in our "throw it away and get a new one world."
That sail switch is often replaced by a tube and a pressure sensor in some Goodman household heaters. Same principle. Moisture may block the tube if you have trouble with interior condensation or water leaks in your air system. Once identified you should solve that problem as well.
Awesome video!
Super confused. 3 months ago I found this video. I decided to get a universal fan blower delay relay since it was cheap. Well, now I realize there's no place on my atwood hydroflame 8531-111 for it. Like I can't tell heads or tails where the location of its supposed place is in relation to where it would be from the access flap. I have found wiring diagrams and schematics and the part you had linked to is listed as a heat sequencer in Amazon. Can't return it now. So now I'm off to test everything with a test light. And actually figure out my problem. Ugh.
I just repaired or replaced my heater motor but now it won't fire up. I had the sail switch, board, and burner cleaned out, this last fall. The fan started making noise so I replaced the motor. I get no clicking or heater start up, no light on the circuit board.
Yes, take a multi meter or test light and check a connection goes through them all. Before you change the board also make sure there is a spark, also make sure the spark in not shorting dut to a breakdown in the insulation as there is a lot of voltage going through it. There is also a probe inside to detect flame on some models, others use the same spark probe to detect flame )it changes the AC spark to DC and the board will lock on until up to temperature when it will go off for a while before firing up again. Check this probe is not burned away or gone brittle. The over temperature and fan change over (pressure switch) often fail. If the blower motor runs for a short while then goes off, suspect the fan switch. If it does not come on at all, over temperature switch. If the burner fires than goes straight off again, it is the spark probe of sensor probe depending on model.
If you hear clicking like a spark, look for a break in the insulation on the HT spark lead, it may look perfect, but if you lift it away from metal you might see a spark jump, or run a screwdriver (not a metal handle) along the wire, if you see a spark jump before you get to close to the spark probe, replace the lead.
If all else fails, the board may be faulty, but check everything else first, it will save you a lot of money.
Thanks for your great video. Our problem is that the furnace is not responding at all when we turn up the thermostat. How do we troubleshoot why it is not coming on? thanks!
My RV sat unused inside from 2004 until this year when I bought it. Checking everything out the furnace worked initially then stopped for some reason. I pulled it out and checked sail switch and others and all checked out. Completely disassembled and cleaned an unreal amount of bugs and nest out of the heating chamber. Has worked flawless ever since and it's an older unit a 1997. For do it yourselfers your videos are a huge savings in time and money..thank you
John, are you in Idaho?
Thanks for the video! You're an electronics genius! much respect
Nope, back in Texas.
Thank you 😊
With a name like yours Easter must be exciting.
YOU WENT WAY BEYOND NAILING IT ! YOU SUPREMELY NAILED IT !
Subscribed before the video finished...
I'm now a CERTIFIED RV furnace tech !
I have a Terralab engineers furnace and for the last few years in the middle of the night the furnace would repeatedly make a popping sound. Now after it heats the camper it stays in cool down mode and will stay blowing cold air all night. If I turn it off, it will light back up and repeat. Any Ideas?
Thank you
Micro Switches have a million uses. I have a bucket full of them stashed. Every dead microwave has at least two or three in it to save.
Excellent video.
what a great video!
Thanks for all the info. It was really useful. I just bought a 14 year old popup camper so all you mentioned will be hopeful. The pigtail leaked when I hooked it up for the first time so after I change that then I expect something else to go wrong. Now i know that to expect
super helpfull thankyou!!! saveing me $$$$$
Thank you I enjoyed your video you explain your steps very well my question is my heater would come on and then shut right back off I replace the thermostat without turning off the power to it, is there a fuse that I could have blown ? Thanks in advance David
In many there is a 15 amp board fuse, in some a 10 amp glass fuse, and in some a chassis fuse with a black screw out cover on it. But generally changing a thermostat will do no harm. Check to see if the proper terminals were connected on the back of it. Cross the wires ( direct connect them, low voltage, its ok ) and see if it fires up. If not, detail why you replaced the thermostat and maybe that is where to start.
Thank you for replying so quickly I will do what you suggested and get back with you
My new to me RV heater works well comes on and produces good heat. There is a high pitch squeaking noise though. I assume its coming from the motor as it the only moving part. Any tips on quieting it down? Thanks.
They probably bent the case or over tightened the mounting somewhere causing the blower housing to scrape the blower. Bump it around a little to see what changes. Just about everything made in the last 15 years the medal is so thin now it gets tweaked easy.
Thanks
Have you ever had a fan run delay relay buzz the whole time the furnace is running once the furnace ignites?
The run delay is a bi-metal strip with contacts. It wouldn't buzz, It may clatter but would let go after a few times. What tends to buzz like a buzzer when going bad is the igniter coil or its relay on the board.
john. I have a 1985 Cricket 9.5 XLT truck camper. I took the heater out and cleaned everything. Lost of carbon from insect nests in the heater tubes. I even checked with compressed air to see if any of the weld seams on the heater tubes may be bad and I found no leaks.
My issue is that I am still getting either some form of exhaust smell inside the camper OR it seems like all of the oxygen is being taken from inside the camper. I closed the windows on the exhaust side of the camper and installed a pipe to move the exhaust further away from the truck and the issue is still there. What could the issue be? Thank you.
I have a problem that goes beyond your video. I’m not sure what it is yet. I replaced the board, sail switch and high limit switch. The blower comes on and I can hear the igniter (not a relay) clicking. It cycles like this three times and then the blower just stays on. The burner doesn’t light not even for a second. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Did you replace the igniter assembly. If the igniter assembly is not sparking on the burner or sensing activation of a flame you'll get this action. Take it out very gently clean it adjust the gap between it and the burner at 3/16 of an inch and try it again. Over time these will get very hot and Warp and cause this problem.
So I have a 1988 six pack truck camper with a duo therm furnace the pilot lites but it does not lite the burner if you have any good tips on this older unit I should check out. Thanks for the video I'll be in there tomorrow trouble shooting some of what you talked about.
This video is pure gold sir! I've got a 3-way fridge in my RV that won't run on 12V but works fine on propane or AC. Any ideas?
The fuse
I have the exact furnace in this video, maybe you can help diagnose my issue. On my last camping trip, after about 2 hour of use and the furnace working perfectly fine, it started this weird cycle where it would try to light repeatedly and it would almost "pop" or "backfire" out the exhaust. Occasionally it would light and I could feel heat coming out, but it would shut off after about 10 seconds and repeat this over and over again. If I turned the furnace off and waited about an hour - it would fire right up and run for about an hour before it would start the intermittent no light/occasional light/popping thing.
Thats a common behavior of a plugged up intake or exhaust. Go outside the RV and shine a flash light into those 2 tubes and look for something in it. Also, check the battery voltage before and after a run to see if voltage sag is a culprit.
John, What about when the heater lights for only a few seconds and then goes out? I took the whole thing apart and cleaned everything. Please advise.
Another great informative video
At 5:23 is the only time you mention "clicking". My 2001 Atwood truck camper furnace is visually similar to your demonstration unit.
I have a cold blowing fan but no starter clicking. Plenty of propane (stove top burners are heating the camper now). May I assume that if there is no clicking then it it's the board relay at fault?
I jumped then the over temp switch. Still nothing. Before I remove the heater, to check the leaf switch, I'd like to confirm that the relay is the only component that controls the starter clicking?
Thanks
John - I have a Atwood 7916-II that does absolutely nothing. So after watching one of your videos I ordered a new fan run delay relay on amazon. The relay was not on the front of the unit so today I took the unit out of the camper and I cant find anything that looks the relay you show. The camper is a 2003 model. is it under the fan cover? What am I missing?
Great video BUT I have a question : my buddy has a furnace very much like this one ( could be the same model , model # 7920 - ll ) , it comes on and cycles but no hot air is blown to the inside of trailer. It DOES blow hot air out the exhaust but it shuts down and has a 3 blink red light that can be seen... what could be the problem ?
What if you don't hear a clicking noise?
Just bought a older trailer. When I try to use my furnace, it fires it runs for few minutes and then pops like a back fire, after checking the exhaust I have a bracket peice hanging out of it.
The same peice as the one mounted in yours at 6:14, what's that peice for? Do I just pull the unit out and rivet it back in? The blower does make a higher pitched noise so I plan on pulling it anyway to see if I can do about that.
What a great video that’s a lot of help.
Great video, lots of good information. Is there any way you could help or show us how to wire one with a thermostat. On my unit I have one Red, one Black, and one White. The thermostat has 2 Whites.
Thank you
So I'm looking at the power supply on this and am I right in thinking that the black is negative or ground, and the white goes to one side of the thermostat and the red goes to the other side of the thermostat but also pigtails to the positive power source? Amazon has a cheap suburban thermostat and a more expensive hydro flame. I'm assuming they're gonna be the same but do you have a preference for this furnace? And if I build a box for this to go in, do I need to have a hole in the side for the blower fan or will it just pull air from the front of the grill?
Yes, it draws air from the sides
Very informative Thank You. Is there not a filter on these units that need to be cleaned? Also, mine is cycling on and off and i am wondering it the cold air when operating is just making and breaking the over temp switch. I did not run it long enough to find out really until i can take apart and check. Thanks. Ted
Sadly no one until the recent last 2 years of a grubberment federal reserve caused world financial and energy problems, ever needed to run a RV heater over 60 hours a year, now we are doing so well millions are moving into them! So not unless your in a real expensive model will it even have a option of filtering. Is it good to once a season if using a lot to remove, blow out the blowers, use a shop vac on its exhaust as your taping and tilting it, then re-install if all is ok.
As for cycling, sounds like a bad thermostat or failing LIMIT SWITCH as the cause.
AND - Take a flash light, look up into the heaters exhaust and intakes and see what is in it, wasps love them. If clogged it can short cycle due to burning rich also, but can cause many parts to fail. It is OK to use a shop vac on the exhaust and intake as you break up dirt or wasp nest just go slow.
When removing one, remember the sleeve and it's screw on the exhaust and the 2 inner furnace base screws usually tight to the sides and hidden in it at floor level to remove it.
My biggest complaint is that I have to physically remove the whole system in my Jayco to get to those parts. And they don't give you enough wire to do so without having to cut the wires from the board. It turns what should be a twenty minute job into a 2 hour job.
My old Atwood heater will ignite & heat, but once it reaches set temperature it keeps blowing as it should but once temperature drops and expect the heater to fire up again it will not and simply blows cold air since it never stops turning after initial start up. Would I be wise to upgrade or it is related to your pinpoints of troubleshooting explanations . P.S. it is 31 yrs old ! lol
So i pulled the unit apart cleaned everything and reinstalled. Checked sail switch , thermo coupling & disk . pilot when unit is cool will light & initially fire up with higher temp set on thermostat but the pilot cuts off after fan ends it's cool down cycle. Back to square one!
I'm totally stumped!!
Thanks for the excellent information!!
I have a 90’s Hydro Flame Corp. Everest Star 79/80 series furnace in my pop up camper.
When I turn it on, it just makes a whirrrring sound and the blower or hear never turn on. Any ideas?
If you do in fact replace the diode, leave it a 1/4 inch above the pcb board. They cool a bit better . if you mount them right down on the board a drop of heat compound will transfer more heat to the PCB and help ya out even more.
Exactly. That's why I said to leave the diodes legs long.
Thank you from the future just in case I have issues to thing that I plan on getting I found this video looking up a 1976 Fleetwood wilderness because I'm going to go and look at 1 tomorrow Friday April 1st 2022 🤜🏾🤛🏾
Great vid, helps a lot. But what about one that worked fine 6mo. ago and now won't start. No fan, no click, nothing?
Great video I've been having trouble with my 5th wheel kicking in no heat just shits back off... No gas at all. I think from this video it's my ot switch.
Great video I learned a lot. I have an older atwood furnace a7900 series i think. the blower comes on when i turn the thermostat on and fan runs but does not light. The fan shuts off when I turn the thermostat off after cool down time. i will check the temp. switch but cannot find the sail switch to check it. Could you tell me where it is and how to get to it. Thanks
great video. Does an RV furnace have a flame sensor? My coleman unit will run for a few min then cut out and it will reignite a couple times and then nothing. I believe i should maybe try the over temp switch but not sure
Those little disk sensors can usually be reset just by throwing them against the floor or banging them on your lineman's or pliers. They are a saucer shaped disk inside that snaps the opposite way when the temperature is reached breaking the contact so with enough force they will snap back to the original direction.
Awsome!
Can the overtemp sensor work inconsistently? I have a 2019 that will run for 3-5 minutes, producing heat, and then it goes through the shutdown process and off. The electric thermostat has to be turned off and back on (sometimes it has to set for a while).
Yes they can do that.
Hey John great video. Please, please provide a bit more detail on how to trick the furnace into thinking the thermostat is calling for heat. Do I just short the two thermostat wires together and/or short them and apply +12 volts
Hey so my heater was working fine but now the blower won’t even come on and it gives me the airflow error code. What’s happening?
John! U r the man! My 1st purchase 40 ft HR IMPERIAL..many small electronics issues. I NEED YOU BAD!!. thanks for taking the time to explain this ...now atleast I won't freeze. Im currently desperately trying to figure out and I derstand the B.I.R.D. system on This thing. I'm going. Through batteries like my ex with vibratory bats. And all the relays that are for the ignition system. 1997 holiday rambler imperial. 8.3 cummins mechanical. I bought it when my mother died and I sold everything to live ring. And It's sentimental and very comfortable.. so it's not going anywhere..thanks.
Is there a way to upgrade older model for this furnace from 1986 to have an automatic start (instead of manual) I have to switch to pilot and turn on via manual knob
On a cargo trailer camper conversion...My batts are 12-15ft away from the inverter.Can I ground/negative wire to frame of trailer and pick up my inverter ground/negative at the inverter location with short 2awg lead instead of running two leads of 2awg wire from batts to inverter...Also could I connect the charge controller directly to the input leads of the inverter instead of running leads for that alone or does that need to be it's own circuit? They're both hooked to the same batts?Trying to eliminate as much as possible...less work/less cash lol
My brother didn't listen to me on bypassing the safety switch and wired the fan to stay on (evidently fan wasn't running fast enough to kick I'm guessing the sail switch) The fan siezed up popped overheat and fan blades melted😂
My furnace just made a large bang bang and shook the whole RV. There's a burning smell and theres a loud noise kinda like a fan dying/struggling. I turned it off and am hoping my son and I will be ok in °18 weather and a space heater. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you had a heat exchanger where the flame is fail, break. That would be the end of that furnace normally. It can happen due to blockage to the intake or exhaust on the heater. The fan failing can cause the gas to be overly enriched and set off a loud pop like that too. Only way to know more is to know the year and make of the heater and see what is available in options.
Yes, it was my mother board that was defective. Changed it out, and everything worked.
Thank you!! I called a mobile service. Right away, before assessing the heater he said “ohhhh it’s your circuit board and those are costly.” He wants $600 to take the whole unit out. It’s only my relay switch.
Nothing happens when I turn furnace on, sometimes if I remove cover and jolt it. It will kick on. I'll run it for a good day then it will work o. demand. If it sits for awhile the same problem happens again. Help