So we had replaced the Sail Switch, then we replaced the mother board and it was still lighting and instantly going out. See about 6:16 of the video for the key that FIXED OUR UNIT! Just mentioning that the exhaust should be capped so it wasn't instantly intaking the CO2 and putting itself out FIXED OUR UNIT! Thank you all so much!! It's snowing here in SW Oregon and we really needed our furnace. :)
Thanks for your excellent video. The contacts on my sail switch were corroded. I removed, cleaned and applied a thin film of dielectric grease to the blades. Problem solved. Thanks so much! You saved me a fortune!
my 1989 suburban NT30 stopped heating. Took it out and found a wasp nest plugging up the intake. That prevented the sail switch from activating. Pulled out the wasp nest and it works fine. Now I will cover the external vents to prevent the wasps from building nests in the future
We've had a recurring issue with our dometic furnace, exact same issue as described here: fan kicks on and it runs through the safety checks--every once in a while it will ignite and bring the room to temp, but then it will not re-ignite on subsequent cycles. There is no ignition (no clicking on the igniter). I've troubleshot the issue and the sail switch is clean and works as expected, measured with an ohm-meter. The fan kicks on so no issue with the limit switch. I jumped the thermostat wires and there were no issues. Voltage is 13.2+ (lithium batteries) at the furnace. 11-inch water column, tested at the stove, so the regulator seems to be working fine (esp. since other propane appliances have no issues). The first two "times" (times=several days of issues) the only common denominator was me disconnecting the propane line to test it and then reconnecting. I even had a guy come out and troubleshoot and he found no issues either. Thus, we both concluded it might be an airlock in the propane line, fixed by disconnecting and reconnecting the line. However, this third "time" (currently) I have disconnected the propane line, reconnected, and run the furnace, but no dice. Fan blows as normal, but no clicking/ignition. I have no clue what this could be. Any ideas?
Very informative! Thank you. Checked the sail switch and it's working. But the issue is the heat coming out is just barely warm, and definitely not warm enough to heat the camper. All trouble shooting info I've read is for not blowing ANY heat....ours is blowing a little heat. I would like to know your opinion on this. Thanks again for your expertise!
this is happening to me.. exhaust blows hot and hard.. barely a whimper inside.. like there kiiiinda warmish air coming through but very little. someone moving in to it soon. not sure waht to do
@peakmountaincamps I bought it a couple.months ago, but just fired up the furnace for the first time. i trusted the sellers when they said it worked. they said they lived in ut fulltime for 3 years and the furnace kept it toasty warm. I let it run for 8 hours and it didn't get above 51° F..
I always remind the folks to check to see if there is propane. Like in the movie "Slingblade". Always check the simple things first! Turn the furnace off at the tstat and if it cycles and cuts off...the propane is the first to check!
Thanks for the video. I have an older RV and my furnace worked one day, then the next nothing. No power, no fan, nada. Dometic thermostat - turn it on and nothing. Im assuming its toast?
My friend has a momentum grand design 25G as a 30,000 BTU suburban heater . He says when the temperature is 50° outside it works properly when it drops below heater shuts off and it goes into lockout mode and has to manually restart it, but does not keep his camper warm.
Thanks so much. As funny as it sounds no other videos turned a physical switch on! I went back, checked the switch and it had been turned off!!!! It went back to dealer for water heater not working from new and they saod it had not been plugged in from thhe factory? Why now was the furnace switch turned off? It worked until it went for warranty work?? Creating profit from more work maybe? You have to physically take off the panel with screws to get to the furnace and it is completely seperate to the water heater. If it was not for your video i was at a blank. Thanks
After I reinstalled my furnace, it would not sustain a flame. Turns out I didnt have the exhaust poked out the trailer as far as it should. It was only 1" difference ! Now it runs fine.
Excellent video but I still need help… I swapped both switches and still does the same turns on and off. You can feel the heat when it starts but it goes back to cooling cycle
Please show the limit switch, i can hear the sale switch make contact and the ignition does start. The i burner does not stay on, it turns off like the thermostat has reached its temperature.
Everything works on my SFV42Q except the propane heat. I have replaced the regulator, the control board, the sail switch, and put a shorter propane hose on (6') i stead of 10'.
What is possibly wrong when it goes the the lighting process, blower turns on, you can here it click but doesn't ever lite, doest the clicking about 3 times then goes to lockout and turns off. Yes there is propane and it lites at the stove.
Great video, thanks. I have the same heater and had a lot of soot so I pulled the unit and tried to blow it out and shop vac it to clean out the heat exchanger. I tried to snake it out beacause I think mud daubers got in there. Is there a baffle mid way through the ecchanger? I could ony pass the snake through 1/2 way in each direction.
Good afternoon Josh, Just watched you Video very well presented and informative. My furnace will not stay lit. I turn it on the fan starts, I can hear the igniter activate, I can feel heat out the exhaust and smell propane. It will run for 1-2 seconds and then stop. It will do this 3 times then it will not try to ignite unless I turn it off and back on. I have good gas pressure at the stove. I do not have an outside access panel. My trailer is about a 1996 Jag by KZ 23 KZ 5th wheel. Any help would be appreciated. Larry
Truly helpful illustration, my 2018 grey wolf did the exact same thing. I turn the suburban switch on the wall to warmer. The furnace ran about 30 seconds, it cut off. Now I had to watch this video to see if I did something wrong? Thanks so much… Do I leave the switch on warmer? Now the switch on the wall is not working.
I have a Wolf Pup 17JG. We haven't used the furnace in a year. It worked fine then, but now nothing. No fan, seemingly no power, nothing. From what I've looked at, including this video, it's probably not the sail switch. Would that possibly be the limit switch or something more?
Looking for help. Atwood furnace will go threw the 3 try starts. It’s igniting but not staying on. Replaced burner,electrodes and gas valve. Any suggestions what to try next. Thanks for your channel!!
I have a Dometic with no easy access. The blower comes on I hear clicking but the gas never ignites. I have a new propane tank, the stove top burners are getting gas. If the sail switch also controls a gas valve then I'll take this unit out and check the sail switch. but I'm just not sure. Any ideas?
My 2019 Dometic furnace will operate perfectly on shore power however it won't start up on 12.v battery. Strangly while it is running on shore power then I disconnect shore power it will continue to run for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes then shuts down. My battery approximately 20 months old and shows fully charged at 13.4 volts. Ive even attached jumper cables from my truck (has 2 batteries for diesel engine) to the rv battery and straight to the rv cables unattached to rv battery and nothing changes. I've replaced the flame sensor/igniter, cleaned the sail switch, tested the high limit thermostat even replaced the control board with a dinosaur board which I have since reinstalled the factory board. There was a recall on the lp regulator so I've even replaced it. Like I said earlier furnace runs fine on shore power just not on battery. Any thoughts ?
Two wires on the sail switch. One comes right from the thermostat the other has two wires spliced together that goes to limit switch does it matter which wire goes where on the sail switch I look at it it shouldn't matter its just a switch
I have this same furnace. I'm having an incomplete combustion event. My exhaust tube and grill plate are black. I can also smell an incomplete burn in the fuel coming into the trailer from the vents. I shut the furnace down but need to tear into it. So you have any pointers where to look? Maybe a plugged Orifice?
Great video I went camping this weekend with our new camper. I picked the camper up Wednesday and went camping Friday I turned the furnace on in the evening and it worked great all night cycled like it's supposed to.went to use it Saturday evening and it wouldn't lite it just blew cold air. I turned it on and off about 4 times and it finally worked I turned it off Sunday morning and then tried it when I got home and it's doing the same thing. it's a brand new unit any ideas thanks
That’s the furnace I have but it looks like they installed furnace the built bedroom wall and installed kitchen cabinets around it, I have no way to access the sail switch. But thanks for the great concise video
I have the same issue. I would have to break a shelf in one of my cabinets in order to remove the furnace to get to the switch. I only have the vent on the outside of my camper. I’m wondering if there’s any way to access the switch if I remove the vent on the outside but from this video I think I still couldn’t get to it.
@@Stuffonyourknee12 I don’t think you can get to switch from outside. I did read sometimes tapping “gently” with hammer can sometimes free up switch. It’s not a huge problem now since we are heading into summer but we use our RV into Dec and it can get pretty chilly. I’m just amazed at the poor design or laziness that went into installing this. But I take some comfort in knowing I’m not alone, lol
@@markh1938 Farther down in the comments I read someone banged on it too lol. So I tapped it with a butterknife because it’s the only thing long and skinny enough to reach. It worked! It’s warm now thankfully. My son and I froze last night. I stayed up until 1AM troubleshooting and finally gave up. I had half my camper torn apart so I could access the “reset switch” which didn’t work. We are in Michigan and do lots of early late camping too. We have the summer to figure it out, or buy a new camper 😂 I agree the design is very poorly planned.
My furnace runs. But after a while it won’t kick back on. I have to turn the power off. Leave it off for 10 seconds turn it back on and then it will fire back up. Any advice would be greatly appropriated. Thank you.
HELP PLEASE!! 😩 We live full-time in our Montana 5th wheel. we are a missionary family but due to Covid... are ‘stranded’ State-side. We are in SouthEast TX. Today is day 1 of a very strong ice-snow front coming. We are seeing that our HEAT FURNACE is not blowing, clicking, igniting.... nothing. 🥶 Cant bring it in... since we live in it. Mobile RV repair is backed up. ❓’water’ was in the ignite area when my husband went to light it. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE OUR PROBLEM? TIA 🙌🏻👍🏻
My furnace fan will not come on. I have bypassed the thermostat and replaced the circuit board but the fan still won't kick on. The board LED will blink error code 1. Applying voltage directly to the motor will spin up the fan. Any ideas on what else I can check?
I have a 2008 cougar rv my furnace just stopped working! When I turn the thermostat up to kick the heat on all it does is click! I have 3 red lights on where the fuses are in my convertor box! I replaced the fuses but I got no change! Any help you could give me will be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance for your time and help
Verify 12v power to the furnace first. If there is power there then verify that the thermostat is working. If both check out I would say most likely a circuit board issue. Could also be limit switch if equipped.
My furnace will go thru the safety's then I hear some clicking, it will not get warm but will run for several minutes before shutting down. Any suggestions?
Good explanation. Our 5 month old trailer has this issue, and no outside access. Stupid design... BTW, watched a bunch of videos on this and wonder why almost everyone pronounces sail like sell or cell. Sail on a boat or sale as in real estate is a libit different
I have a 2001 wild wood 28 ft camper suburban heater will not do anything also the refrigerator will not light on the propane side but the Also hot water tank will not light but the stove will work I tried lighting them manually
I replaced the limit switch but the furnace continues to turn off. Should I replace the sail Switch? I thought because it starts heating it wouldn't be the sail switch. ??
Have you tried blowing the exhaust port out. Sometimes if there is the blockage it will burn for a bit and then go out. You could also try cleaning the electrode.
Mine was coming on and I cleaned the sail switch and now it won't come on at all. I found there is a gas leak at the propane tank. Will that keep it from coming on?
Hi, thanks for the great info. I recently had to replace the circuit board on my furnace and now the fan will not turn off. It ignites and heats up but the blower just runs continuously even when the heat goes off. Any ideas? Thanks
what if your working remotely trying to help someone, I need a schematic of a heater/AC system. Is there a place I can download them? Also, Can you get a complete schematics for the RV your working on? All the wiring diagrams I have found have wiring that is a different color??
It’s summer. Something in my furnace is making a whomping sound like it wants to come on by itself even though it’s in off position. Turned it on just to test, everything worked. I shut it off. 5 minutes later it started womping sound again. I had to pull the fuse. Any idea what could be causing this?
Liked, I have a Surburban SF35, and tried to change sail switch. Old switch says its 3A . replacement part says 1.5A, at first the blower would turn on, but now it does not. Is it possible to get a sail switch that it like the original?
Awesome video. Very informative! What should I look for if the the fan was kicking on but no heat like in this video and now the fan isn’t even kicking on at all?
My domestic furnace is only two years old but it will try to start you’ll feel a minute of heat and then it goes right off it will do this continuously no three times and then shut off. Any ideas. Thanks in advance
I have a 1977 skyline noman that has a Duo-therm 65900 series ac dcdirect spark ignition furnace piolot light does go on motor does run howeve it will not heat when piolot light is on its extremely low almost a dot but when you go fron piolot to the on postion piolot turns off motor keeps running but no heat help. What can my problem be?? Help a newbe
I have a Suburban SFV-35Q 35,000 btu furnac and when I turn it on it seems to run fine for about 3-4 minutes. Blower starts, it ignites, blows hot air then just stops. Does not seem to turn off and cool down, just stops. Any thoughts?
@@peakmountaincamps Replaced the limit switch, tested outside of trailer and it ran for 10 minutes and I shut down. Put furnace back in trailer and it ran for 8 minutes and stopped again. Would it start heating if sail switch is no good?
When I saw the airtight furnace in your trailer I smiled with delight. Instead of gonna get me some kibble and bits I'm gonna get an airtight!! Ok, seriously; RE: Atwood Hydro Flame Two Stage 1522 DCLP My furnace lights but will not sustain burning longer than a few seconds once off of pilot. So far, I have pulled the burner head out and cleaned it up as well as the Ignitor and set the gaps. The stage of burn after the pilot cuts off increased from a second or two to about 8 seconds. I am wondering if the gas orifice might be restricted. Same result using a different LP supply (30 litre) tank.Would you hazard a guess as to the problem? On order to replace are: 1) High limit switch 37022 190 degrees F 2) Sail switch 36680 3) The circuit board 34696 Any insight is welcome, Best, David
@@peakmountaincamps Atwood Hydro Flame Two Stage 1522 DCLP about 13 yrs old at Sea Level Fridge/freezer runs on LP/AC/DC No Probs Stove lights 3 burners, all strong flame Compliments on your lightening response, humanity is alive!! Also of interest is on the circuit board there is a red light that flashes twice indicating "ignition failure"
My atwood blower comes on, after a few seconds I hear the igniter clicking, it ignites the propane but only for a few seconds, then starts to click again, then ignites for a few seconds. Continues that cycle 3 times then shuts down. Would that be the sail switch?
Great video!!! Have a question. Went to fire up our Atwood AFLD40121 last Friday evening, there was absolutely nothing. No fan, no clicking, nothing. I have the furnace out of the 5th wheel, just wonder what I should be looking for.
Thanks for the video. I have an atwood model 7920-11. I can turn it on sometimes it works for 45 minutes then shuts off. Never to restart again for hours. Any suggestions?
The heater shouldn’t ignite if the fan isn’t blowing. The way they are setup up has several safety procedures that it will run through first before ignition. The fan blowing is one of them.
My dometic furnace is doing the exact same thing. I removed the sail switch and checked continuity and it was showing open, then short when you moved sail. I compared to new sail switch and got same reading. I even had the sail switch still wired and started furnace and manually moved sail, and it still would not ignite. What's next?
Thanks for the video. I have this furnace and it does not blow out exhaust Like it used to and is leaving soot outside. any idea what is causing this? the unit is 3 years old
Great information. May the dometic furnace tries to start and you can feel heat for a second then it shut off. I understand that would not be the sale switch. Any thoughts on this problem. Thanks in advance
Hey bud. My Atwood Furnace was fine just until yesterday. Now fan won't even start. Checked fuses. Not the issue. What is the likely cause in your opinion? Thanks, James
I have an Atwood 7916 II furnace(Stamped on the circuit board is 06-235132-001) in a 98 Palomino popup camper, the furnace stopped working last year when I needed it the most, so I have been trying to figure it out, so far I have replaced the Sail Switch, Limit Switch, Electrode, and the Propane Tank regulator and thermostat. The furnace worked for a couple of days, then I tested it again a about a week later and I get nothing. Fan goes on, I here clicking, it tries three times and just runs the fan for another 30seconds and that's it, it keeps trying but without success. My only other thought is the Circuit board, what do you think?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It could be a circuit board but not as common. Most shops can test the boards to see if they are working properly. It sounds to me like you have a gas issue or a spark issue. Where you have changed the regulator I would say spark.
Thanks for the info, I have a hydroflame model number fa7916 that I couldnt find a combustion air tube for, any ideas on how to replace one, or where to find one? Any info would be appreciated. 👍🏻
my furnace is just like the one you used,the furnace will light and run for about 45 second and the reset switch kicks out and shuts everything down,thermostat also have any suggestions where to look
Did someone install a filter for the furnace? They aren't supposed to have them and slowing down the airflow can cause strange behavior. If you don't have a filter on the intake, never mind, but if there is one, try it without.
I'm having an issue when at higher elevations. Heater works fine at 6000 ft. Anytime I head into the mtns of Colorado my heater does not want to light. Have you ever ran into this problem?
What’s your propane level at? Also battery voltage. I’ve never had a furnace do that but I have had a couple fridges that wouldn’t operate at high altitudes.
@@peakmountaincamps ya it can be a new bottle and running off generator power and still won't ignite. Come back down the mountain and it works perfectly.
I remove my furnace Atwood 8535-11. Clean everything change burner and clean element, put everything back together. But I think I cross the wire ground to positive and positive to ground its spark and now have nothing. What can be wrong? Thanks
I took my furnace out of the RV and was surprised to find water in the pan below the exhaust pipe near the combustion chamber. Its either condensation water or somehow is leaking in from outside. Is this normal?
@@peakmountaincamps Ok. So I already tried switching it off for a minute or so and it just continues to not ignite. Fan comes on but nothing else. I lit the burners and they work. I also switched the fridge and water heater to gas hoping to purge system further. They are all lit too.
@@jmm866 if fan blows but doesn’t ignite i would definitely lean torwards a sail switch as it is much cheaper than a circuit board. The scenario seems weird that either of those would be the culprit but without being check it personally I would say start with a sail switch as they are pretty cheap.
Hi, thanks for this video. Do you have an online source that regular folk can buy our parts at good prices?) Seems out local (50 miles away) rv places think their stuff is made from gold...
Welcome to the Rv industry. It’s all overpriced. Amazon would be your best pricing but with that being said you don’t get the knowledge of a Rv technician or someone who will take care of you should issues arise with the product when buying from Amazon.
@@peakmountaincamps Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I get that about the tech. The wife and I built our house, our monster truck and the hotrod, but still have someone "tune up" the hvac, and someone to build the transmissions as we just don't know all we need to know. Same goes for the rv. I guess the hardest part is figuring out how they put this thing together so we can get at what needs getting at....if you know what I mean. Thanks again
Great video. I have a old Hydro flame that's in a 1997 Toyota Itasca. It wasn't turning on so i bypassed the thermostat and clamped the 2 thermostat wires together and it wanted to start but motor was struggling to turn. I took the unit out and got the fan to work great. But now whenever I put power to the unit it turns on regardless of thermostat wire positions and fan wont turn off until I remove power by disconnecting it from battery. I only bench tested this without gas connected. Any idea why it just keeps running and wont turn off? Thanks so much. Any help would be highly appreciated!
Yep ! You did it, you showed me how and now my heater works so nicely so you're our hero man and thank you
So we had replaced the Sail Switch, then we replaced the mother board and it was still lighting and instantly going out. See about 6:16 of the video for the key that FIXED OUR UNIT! Just mentioning that the exhaust should be capped so it wasn't instantly intaking the CO2 and putting itself out FIXED OUR UNIT! Thank you all so much!! It's snowing here in SW Oregon and we really needed our furnace. :)
So do you keep it caped in the camper
Thanks for your excellent video. The contacts on my sail switch were corroded. I removed, cleaned and applied a thin film of dielectric grease to the blades. Problem solved. Thanks so much! You saved me a fortune!
Great video on explanation of cold air with igniting. I had this same problem on my furnace, now one more issue... I smell propane leak from furnace.
my 1989 suburban NT30 stopped heating. Took it out and found a wasp nest plugging up the intake. That prevented the sail switch from activating. Pulled out the wasp nest and it works fine. Now I will cover the external vents to prevent the wasps from building nests in the future
Great info! I must have missed this one when it came out. Always appreciate these more technical insight videos. 👍
We've had a recurring issue with our dometic furnace, exact same issue as described here: fan kicks on and it runs through the safety checks--every once in a while it will ignite and bring the room to temp, but then it will not re-ignite on subsequent cycles. There is no ignition (no clicking on the igniter).
I've troubleshot the issue and the sail switch is clean and works as expected, measured with an ohm-meter. The fan kicks on so no issue with the limit switch. I jumped the thermostat wires and there were no issues. Voltage is 13.2+ (lithium batteries) at the furnace. 11-inch water column, tested at the stove, so the regulator seems to be working fine (esp. since other propane appliances have no issues).
The first two "times" (times=several days of issues) the only common denominator was me disconnecting the propane line to test it and then reconnecting. I even had a guy come out and troubleshoot and he found no issues either. Thus, we both concluded it might be an airlock in the propane line, fixed by disconnecting and reconnecting the line.
However, this third "time" (currently) I have disconnected the propane line, reconnected, and run the furnace, but no dice. Fan blows as normal, but no clicking/ignition. I have no clue what this could be. Any ideas?
How old is the furnace?
@@peakmountaincamps was manufactured in 2020, purchased the RV in 2021.
Let me put a video together of a common issue that I’ve run into on these newer furnaces. I’ll try and get it on the channel within the next day or 2.
Has this vid come out? I’m having the exact symptoms as you are. Any luck yet????
I don’t recall what the title was…quick fix or something like that.
What a great vid man. Now I'm going to attempt it and I'll let you know if I blew up anything. Thank you.
Very informative! Thank you. Checked the sail switch and it's working. But the issue is the heat coming out is just barely warm, and definitely not warm enough to heat the camper. All trouble shooting info I've read is for not blowing ANY heat....ours is blowing a little heat. I would like to know your opinion on this. Thanks again for your expertise!
Sounds like the air is going elsewhere. Very possible to have a duct collapsed or mice have tore holes in.
this is happening to me.. exhaust blows hot and hard.. barely a whimper inside.. like there kiiiinda warmish air coming through but very little. someone moving in to it soon. not sure waht to do
Has it always been that way? It is possible to have a undersized furnace for that size trailer.
@peakmountaincamps I bought it a couple.months ago, but just fired up the furnace for the first time. i trusted the sellers when they said it worked. they said they lived in ut fulltime for 3 years and the furnace kept it toasty warm. I let it run for 8 hours and it didn't get above 51° F..
I always remind the folks to check to see if there is propane. Like in the movie "Slingblade". Always check the simple things first! Turn the furnace off at the tstat and if it cycles and cuts off...the propane is the first to check!
Superb, it was the sail switch on mine. I was thinking the bounce when traveling causes it to wear out.
Thanks for the video. My sail switch had some carpet fibers in it from the fan.
Thanks for the video. I have an older RV and my furnace worked one day, then the next nothing. No power, no fan, nada. Dometic thermostat - turn it on and nothing. Im assuming its toast?
Very seldom is a furnace beyond repair. It’s always cheaper to fix them than replace them.
My friend has a momentum grand design 25G as a 30,000 BTU suburban heater . He says when the temperature is 50° outside it works properly when it drops below heater shuts off and it goes into lockout mode and has to manually restart it, but does not keep his camper warm.
Plugged in or just off batteries?
@@peakmountaincamps plug-in
Thanks for taking the time to show that.
Thanks so much. As funny as it sounds no other videos turned a physical switch on! I went back, checked the switch and it had been turned off!!!!
It went back to dealer for water heater not working from new and they saod it had not been plugged in from thhe factory? Why now was the furnace switch turned off? It worked until it went for warranty work??
Creating profit from more work maybe? You have to physically take off the panel with screws to get to the furnace and it is completely seperate to the water heater.
If it was not for your video i was at a blank.
Thanks
Your video was very helpful...I just wanted to thank you for sharing it....
After I reinstalled my furnace, it would not sustain a flame. Turns out I didnt have the exhaust poked out the trailer as far as it should. It was only 1" difference ! Now it runs fine.
Thanks for your help....yup sail switch
Excellent video but I still need help… I swapped both switches and still does the same turns on and off. You can feel the heat when it starts but it goes back to cooling cycle
Please show the limit switch, i can hear the sale switch make contact and the ignition does start. The i burner does not stay on, it turns off like the thermostat has reached its temperature.
Everything works on my SFV42Q except the propane heat. I have replaced the regulator, the control board, the sail switch, and put a shorter propane hose on (6') i stead of 10'.
My issue is the fan runs but heat wont kick in, but, if i run the stove burner and hot water heater for a minute then the furnace heat will kick in...
Thank you very much. This is exactly what is happening to my furnace.
Great video and explanations. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
I have a serburban furnace that I've changed both sail switch and limit switch but still won't fire up
Awesome thank you so much, I have this exact problem, I'm gonna try it 😊
Thanks, this was very helpful
Blower works furnace cycles but will not light .Changed limit switch and sail switch but no change??
What is possibly wrong when it goes the the lighting process, blower turns on, you can here it click but doesn't ever lite, doest the clicking about 3 times then goes to lockout and turns off. Yes there is propane and it lites at the stove.
Probably sail switch dirty
Great video, thanks. I have the same heater and had a lot of soot so I pulled the unit and tried to blow it out and shop vac it to clean out the heat exchanger. I tried to snake it out beacause I think mud daubers got in there. Is there a baffle mid way through the ecchanger? I could ony pass the snake through 1/2 way in each direction.
We just put a new furnace in our camper it is a jayco eagle 2022 the fan come on but it don't blow hot air what should I check or do
Good afternoon Josh, Just watched you Video very well presented and informative. My furnace will not stay lit. I turn it on the fan starts, I can hear the igniter activate, I can feel heat out the exhaust and smell propane. It will run for 1-2 seconds and then stop. It will do this 3 times then it will not try to ignite unless I turn it off and back on. I have good gas pressure at the stove. I do not have an outside access panel. My trailer is about a 1996 Jag by KZ 23 KZ 5th wheel. Any help would be appreciated. Larry
Truly helpful illustration, my 2018 grey wolf did the exact same thing. I turn the suburban switch on the wall to warmer. The furnace ran about 30 seconds, it cut off. Now I had to watch this video to see if I did something wrong? Thanks so much… Do I leave the switch on warmer? Now the switch on the wall is not working.
I have a Wolf Pup 17JG. We haven't used the furnace in a year. It worked fine then, but now nothing. No fan, seemingly no power, nothing. From what I've looked at, including this video, it's probably not the sail switch. Would that possibly be the limit switch or something more?
I would verify power first. Both at the furnace and at the thermostat.
Looking for help. Atwood furnace will go threw the 3 try starts. It’s igniting but not staying on. Replaced burner,electrodes and gas valve. Any suggestions what to try next. Thanks for your channel!!
I’ve changed sail switch and limit switch and furnace still will not light. Blower works and it cycles but will not light
I have a Dometic with no easy access. The blower comes on I hear clicking but the gas never ignites. I have a new propane tank, the stove top burners are getting gas. If the sail switch also controls a gas valve then I'll take this unit out and check the sail switch. but I'm just not sure. Any ideas?
Great video, my question is do I have to pull out my furnace to change the switch?? Can I leave it in my rv which is a 5th wheel Jayco?? Thanks
My 2019 Dometic furnace will operate perfectly on shore power however it won't start up on 12.v battery. Strangly while it is running on shore power then I disconnect shore power it will continue to run for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes then shuts down. My battery approximately 20 months old and shows fully charged at 13.4 volts. Ive even attached jumper cables from my truck (has 2 batteries for diesel engine) to the rv battery and straight to the rv cables unattached to rv battery and nothing changes. I've replaced the flame sensor/igniter, cleaned the sail switch, tested the high limit thermostat even replaced the control board with a dinosaur board which I have since reinstalled the factory board. There was a recall on the lp regulator so I've even replaced it. Like I said earlier furnace runs fine on shore power just not on battery. Any thoughts ?
Two wires on the sail switch. One comes right from the thermostat the other has two wires spliced together that goes to limit switch does it matter which wire goes where on the sail switch I look at it it shouldn't matter its just a switch
what will cause a power surge when starting furnace
I have this same furnace. I'm having an incomplete combustion event. My exhaust tube and grill plate are black. I can also smell an incomplete burn in the fuel coming into the trailer from the vents. I shut the furnace down but need to tear into it. So you have any pointers where to look? Maybe a plugged Orifice?
Did you figured it out? I am experiencing the same issue.
Great video I went camping this weekend with our new camper. I picked the camper up Wednesday and went camping Friday I turned the furnace on in the evening and it worked great all night cycled like it's supposed to.went to use it Saturday evening and it wouldn't lite it just blew cold air. I turned it on and off about 4 times and it finally worked I turned it off Sunday morning and then tried it when I got home and it's doing the same thing. it's a brand new unit any ideas thanks
Did you ever find a solution? I have the same problem. The new sail switch left me with the same result.
That’s the furnace I have but it looks like they installed furnace the built bedroom wall and installed kitchen cabinets around it, I have no way to access the sail switch. But thanks for the great concise video
I have the same issue. I would have to break a shelf in one of my cabinets in order to remove the furnace to get to the switch. I only have the vent on the outside of my camper. I’m wondering if there’s any way to access the switch if I remove the vent on the outside but from this video I think I still couldn’t get to it.
@@Stuffonyourknee12 I don’t think you can get to switch from outside. I did read sometimes tapping “gently” with hammer can sometimes free up switch. It’s not a huge problem now since we are heading into summer but we use our RV into Dec and it can get pretty chilly. I’m just amazed at the poor design or laziness that went into installing this. But I take some comfort in knowing I’m not alone, lol
@@markh1938 Farther down in the comments I read someone banged on it too lol. So I tapped it with a butterknife because it’s the only thing long and skinny enough to reach. It worked! It’s warm now thankfully. My son and I froze last night. I stayed up until 1AM troubleshooting and finally gave up. I had half my camper torn apart so I could access the “reset switch” which didn’t work. We are in Michigan and do lots of early late camping too. We have the summer to figure it out, or buy a new camper 😂 I agree the design is very poorly planned.
Thank you for your input
My furnace runs. But after a while it won’t kick back on. I have to turn the power off. Leave it off for 10 seconds turn it back on and then it will fire back up. Any advice would be greatly appropriated. Thank you.
HELP PLEASE!! 😩
We live full-time in our Montana 5th wheel.
we are a missionary family but due to Covid... are ‘stranded’ State-side.
We are in SouthEast TX. Today is day 1 of a very strong ice-snow front coming.
We are seeing that our HEAT FURNACE is not blowing, clicking, igniting.... nothing. 🥶
Cant bring it in... since we live in it. Mobile RV repair is backed up.
❓’water’ was in the ignite area when my husband went to light it.
WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE OUR PROBLEM?
TIA 🙌🏻👍🏻
Give us a call (435) 462-7325
Have a furnace that lights up for 30 seconds and shuts off. What could be wrong 🤔
I changed my sail switch but still having the same issue. What else might I try? It runs through the safety mode but never lights.
Can you hear clicking when it tries to ignite?
Very informative. I have an AFMD25121 FAN NOT START. The board has a single blink. Any suggestions? I did hit the reset button as well. Nothing.
My furnace fan will not come on. I have bypassed the thermostat and replaced the circuit board but the fan still won't kick on. The board LED will blink error code 1. Applying voltage directly to the motor will spin up the fan. Any ideas on what else I can check?
have you verified that you have power? possible blown fuse? could also be the reset breaker on the furnace.
I have a 2008 cougar rv my furnace just stopped working! When I turn the thermostat up to kick the heat on all it does is click! I have 3 red lights on where the fuses are in my convertor box! I replaced the fuses but I got no change! Any help you could give me will be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance for your time and help
Is the click coming from the furnace itself? There is a on/off switch on the furnace itself. You just have to get access to it.
Atwood furnace on my RV stop working altogether it a 8525 IV DCLP no clicking no blower will not come need help, thanks
Verify 12v power to the furnace first. If there is power there then verify that the thermostat is working. If both check out I would say most likely a circuit board issue. Could also be limit switch if equipped.
My furnace will go thru the safety's then I hear some clicking, it will not get warm but will run for several minutes before shutting down. Any suggestions?
I am having the same problem right now
Good explanation. Our 5 month old trailer has this issue, and no outside access. Stupid design...
BTW, watched a bunch of videos on this and wonder why almost everyone pronounces sail like sell or cell. Sail on a boat or sale as in real estate is a libit different
I have a 2001 wild wood 28 ft camper suburban heater will not do anything also the refrigerator will not light on the propane side but the Also hot water tank will not light but the stove will work I tried lighting them manually
sounds like a regulator issue to me. When you attempt to light one of the other appliances with the stove burning does the flames drop?
low voltage
I replaced the limit switch but the furnace continues to turn off. Should I replace the sail Switch? I thought because it starts heating it wouldn't be the sail switch. ??
Have you tried blowing the exhaust port out. Sometimes if there is the blockage it will burn for a bit and then go out. You could also try cleaning the electrode.
Crazy that I just mne for not working and then this video pops up....mine had a very weak on off switch
Mine was coming on and I cleaned the sail switch and now it won't come on at all. I found there is a gas leak at the propane tank. Will that keep it from coming on?
It will come on with switch but the furnace gets to hot to touch is that normal,
Hi, thanks for the great info. I recently had to replace the circuit board on my furnace and now the fan will not turn off. It ignites and heats up but the blower just runs continuously even when the heat goes off. Any ideas? Thanks
Thank you we. are going to go try to fix this with your help
I have an Atwood furnace. Works fine when weather is dry. When rains for a couple days it won’t work at all. Any tips?
How old is it? Some had a recall were they provided a bracket to relocate the circuit board so it didn’t collect water on it.
Very good! Thanks for the fine video which I found very helpful.
Thank you for the great video. It helped a lot. Keep up the good work.
Will the future pull it easy
what if your working remotely trying to help someone, I need a schematic of a heater/AC system. Is there a place I can download them? Also, Can you get a complete schematics for the RV your working on? All the wiring diagrams I have found have wiring that is a different color??
It’s summer. Something in my furnace is making a whomping sound like it wants to come on by itself even though it’s in off position.
Turned it on just to test, everything worked. I shut it off. 5 minutes later it started womping sound again.
I had to pull the fuse. Any idea what could be causing this?
Liked, I have a Surburban SF35, and tried to change sail switch. Old switch says its 3A . replacement part says 1.5A, at first the blower would turn on, but now it does not. Is it possible to get a sail switch that it like the original?
The blower should come on regardless. My guess is you have a blown fuse or thermostat is not calling for heat.
My furnace turns on makes a clicking noise heats up for 10 seconds then shuts off the clicking noise never stops? Any ideas?
Any chance that is an Atwood AFMD 30121... which is what i have. It looks very similar mine.
Awesome video. Very informative! What should I look for if the the fan was kicking on but no heat like in this video and now the fan isn’t even kicking on at all?
I would verify power first. If you have power at the switch then I would suspect a circuit board.
My domestic furnace is only two years old but it will try to start you’ll feel a minute of heat and then it goes right off it will do this continuously no three times and then shut off. Any ideas. Thanks in advance
Sounds like an igniter to me. Could also be the circuit board.
I have a 1977 skyline noman that has a Duo-therm 65900 series ac dcdirect spark ignition furnace piolot light does go on motor does run howeve it will not heat when piolot light is on its extremely low almost a dot but when you go fron piolot to the on postion piolot turns off motor keeps running but no heat help. What can my problem be?? Help a newbe
My guess is it might be time for a new regulator on your lp tanks.
adjust pilot light and change thermocouple
I have a Suburban SFV-35Q 35,000 btu furnac and when I turn it on it seems to run fine for about 3-4 minutes. Blower starts, it ignites, blows hot air then just stops. Does not seem to turn off and cool down, just stops. Any thoughts?
Possibly a high limit switch
@@peakmountaincamps Replaced the limit switch, tested outside of trailer and it ran for 10 minutes and I shut down. Put furnace back in trailer and it ran for 8 minutes and stopped again. Would it start heating if sail switch is no good?
When I saw the airtight furnace in your trailer I smiled with delight. Instead of gonna get me some kibble and bits I'm gonna get an airtight!!
Ok, seriously; RE: Atwood Hydro Flame Two Stage 1522 DCLP
My furnace lights but will not sustain burning longer than a few seconds once off of pilot. So far, I have pulled the burner head out and cleaned it up as well as the Ignitor and set the gaps. The stage of burn after the pilot cuts off increased from a second or two to about 8 seconds.
I am wondering if the gas orifice might be restricted. Same result using a different LP supply (30 litre) tank.Would you hazard a guess as to the problem?
On order to replace are:
1) High limit switch 37022 190 degrees F
2) Sail switch 36680
3) The circuit board 34696
Any insight is welcome,
Best, David
What elevation are you at? What model furnace?
@@peakmountaincamps Atwood Hydro Flame Two Stage 1522 DCLP about 13 yrs old at Sea Level
Fridge/freezer runs on LP/AC/DC No Probs Stove lights 3 burners, all strong flame Compliments on your lightening response, humanity is alive!!
Also of interest is on the circuit board there is a red light that flashes twice indicating "ignition failure"
My atwood blower comes on, after a few seconds I hear the igniter clicking, it ignites the propane but only for a few seconds, then starts to click again, then ignites for a few seconds. Continues that cycle 3 times then shuts down. Would that be the sail switch?
not the sail switch, dirty electrode lost signal to gas valve
Great video!!! Have a question. Went to fire up our Atwood AFLD40121 last Friday evening, there was absolutely nothing. No fan, no clicking, nothing. I have the furnace out of the 5th wheel, just wonder what I should be looking for.
Fuse
Thanks for the video. I have an atwood model 7920-11. I can turn it on sometimes it works for 45 minutes then shuts off. Never to restart again for hours. Any suggestions?
Sounds like a limit switch to me.
You keep say fan or blower. You mean exhaust fan/ inducer?
Our heater kicks on, but the fan never clicks on. Could it still be this part?
The heater shouldn’t ignite if the fan isn’t blowing. The way they are setup up has several safety procedures that it will run through first before ignition. The fan blowing is one of them.
My dometic furnace is doing the exact same thing. I removed the sail switch and checked continuity and it was showing open, then short when you moved sail. I compared to new sail switch and got same reading. I even had the sail switch still wired and started furnace and manually moved sail, and it still would not ignite. What's next?
High limit switch
Thanks for the video. I have this furnace and it does not blow out exhaust Like it used to and is leaving soot outside. any idea what is causing this? the unit is 3 years old
My guess would be dirty combustion chamber. Very common to have insects build nest and there.
Great information. May the dometic furnace tries to start and you can feel heat for a second then it shut off. I understand that would not be the sale switch. Any thoughts on this problem. Thanks in advance
I have the same problem what fix yours
Hey bud. My Atwood Furnace was fine just until yesterday. Now fan won't even start. Checked fuses. Not the issue. What is the likely cause in your opinion? Thanks, James
I have an Atwood 7916 II furnace(Stamped on the circuit board is 06-235132-001) in a 98 Palomino popup camper, the furnace stopped working last year when I needed it the most, so I have been trying to figure it out, so far I have replaced the Sail Switch, Limit Switch, Electrode, and the Propane Tank regulator and thermostat. The furnace worked for a couple of days, then I tested it again a about a week later and I get nothing. Fan goes on, I here clicking, it tries three times and just runs the fan for another 30seconds and that's it, it keeps trying but without success. My only other thought is the Circuit board, what do you think?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It could be a circuit board but not as common. Most shops can test the boards to see if they are working properly. It sounds to me like you have a gas issue or a spark issue. Where you have changed the regulator I would say spark.
Thanks for the info, I have a hydroflame model number fa7916 that I couldnt find a combustion air tube for, any ideas on how to replace one, or where to find one? Any info would be appreciated. 👍🏻
my furnace is just like the one you used,the furnace will light and run for about 45 second and the reset switch kicks out and shuts everything down,thermostat also have any suggestions where to look
Did someone install a filter for the furnace? They aren't supposed to have them and slowing down the airflow can cause strange behavior. If you don't have a filter on the intake, never mind, but if there is one, try it without.
I just pulled mine out and cleaned the sail switch today. It was clogged with cat fur and wouldn’t ignite.
Very common in trailers with pets. Also common in trailers that are smoked in.
Very helpful and life saver.
I'm having an issue when at higher elevations. Heater works fine at 6000 ft. Anytime I head into the mtns of Colorado my heater does not want to light. Have you ever ran into this problem?
What’s your propane level at? Also battery voltage. I’ve never had a furnace do that but I have had a couple fridges that wouldn’t operate at high altitudes.
@@peakmountaincamps ya it can be a new bottle and running off generator power and still won't ignite. Come back down the mountain and it works perfectly.
My furnace clicks but it dose ignite or start up from their
Could be a number of things. I would verify that you have propane to the furnace first off and then verify that you have 12volts at the furnace.
I remove my furnace Atwood 8535-11. Clean everything change burner and clean element, put everything back together. But I think I cross the wire ground to positive and positive to ground its spark and now have nothing. What can be wrong? Thanks
Hopefully you just blew the fuse but you very easily could have burned up the circuit board.
@@peakmountaincamps Thanks, you mean the fuse on motor. Is there a fuse inside or work like a breaker. Says 10 on it
@@victorhebert5774 there is a 10 amp fuse in the fuse panel in the trailer and then there is a breaker switch on the furnace
I took my furnace out of the RV and was surprised to find water in the pan below the exhaust pipe near the combustion chamber. Its either condensation water or somehow is leaking in from outside. Is this normal?
You will get condensation which shouldn’t be a problem as long as it the electrical components remain dry.
No it’s not
Great info. Thanks
Do you have part numbers for the switches? Thank you
They vary from furnace to furnace but if you can get us the model number of your furnace we can get you the part number.
Just bought a brand new 2022 with a similar furnace. Ran out of propane and now it wont ignite. Any tips??
I would start by flipping the reset switch and see if that makes any difference
@@peakmountaincamps
So is the reset switch the black switch on top?
@@jmm866 yes
@@peakmountaincamps
Ok. So I already tried switching it off for a minute or so and it just continues to not ignite. Fan comes on but nothing else. I lit the burners and they work. I also switched the fridge and water heater to gas hoping to purge system further. They are all lit too.
@@jmm866 if fan blows but doesn’t ignite i would definitely lean torwards a sail switch as it is much cheaper than a circuit board. The scenario seems weird that either of those would be the culprit but without being check it personally I would say start with a sail switch as they are pretty cheap.
Thank you
Hi, thanks for this video.
Do you have an online source that regular folk can buy our parts at good prices?)
Seems out local (50 miles away) rv places think their stuff is made from gold...
Welcome to the Rv industry. It’s all overpriced. Amazon would be your best pricing but with that being said you don’t get the knowledge of a Rv technician or someone who will take care of you should issues arise with the product when buying from Amazon.
@@peakmountaincamps Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I get that about the tech. The wife and I built our house, our monster truck and the hotrod, but still have someone "tune up" the hvac, and someone to build the transmissions as we just don't know all we need to know. Same goes for the rv. I guess the hardest part is figuring out how they put this thing together so we can get at what needs getting at....if you know what I mean.
Thanks again
Great video. I have a old Hydro flame that's in a 1997 Toyota Itasca. It wasn't turning on so i bypassed the thermostat and clamped the 2 thermostat wires together and it wanted to start but motor was struggling to turn. I took the unit out and got the fan to work great. But now whenever I put power to the unit it turns on regardless of thermostat wire positions and fan wont turn off until I remove power by disconnecting it from battery. I only bench tested this without gas connected. Any idea why it just keeps running and wont turn off? Thanks so much. Any help would be highly appreciated!