I replaced the radiator on our 2007 Sienna this weekend and found this video invaluable. Some things I'd like to pass along in case it helps the next person. At 10:51, there are two parallel vacuum lines directly to the left of the positive battery post. One of these connects to a tiny port at the air box, and the other connects to Tee just beside the air box. I accidentally unplugged these from somewhere way down in the engine bay. I've learned that these are part of Toyota's "Active Control Engine Mount" and they are connected to a vacuum switch mounted on the front engine mount. At 11:05, I had difficulty removing the lower air duct until I figured out that I had to lift and push the duct to the left (separating it from the chamber under the battery) before I could pull it out of the air box. At 12:00, if your vehicle has an electrical connector to the hood latch, be sure to reconnect that connector before reinstalling the hood latch. It's almost impossible to see the female connector on the latch once you've reinstalled it. At 13:30, I rounded off one of the screws and had to drill off the head. This meant I couldn't reconnect a screw when putting everything back together. I took a clue from the video and used some foam from the side of the old radiator, setting it on top of the condenser before reinstalling the black plate over it. This will keep the condenser from moving, just like the stuck screw would have. At 20:30 and 23:33, these are steps I didn't have to do. On our van, those screws only go through the condenser and don't touch the radiator, so I didn't have to remove them. At 26:50, I had a miserable time removing the two bolts from the bottom plate. In fact, one bolt's mating nut turned inside its position in the radiator when I turned the bolt. I ended up having to pry the radiator away from the bottom plate, destroying the plastic on that corner of the old radiator. That was fine except I bent the lower plate just enough to prevent being able to use all four bolts when reinstalling the cooling fan. (The cooling fan is supported at the bottom with two bolts that insert into the bottom radiator support). Don't forget to check your transmission fluid after you've installed the new radiator. Also, I used one of the kits available from several sources in order to purge the cooling system of air. The van now has better heat than it's had in years. // I really appreciated this video. Good luck to anyone replacing their radiator. If you watch this video enough times, you'll feel like you've already done the repair at some point in the past and so the job won't be nearly as intimidating. Subscribed....
Air purge kit is a way to apply vacuum to the system to remove stray air behind the thermostat. If your diligent and monitor the system with a tall funnel, you’ll note the thermostat open twice, and THEN the cooling fans come on. That should be a wrap.
This guy does a great job explaining how to purge the air from the cooling system. The kit can be found online. ruclips.net/video/UJe1dbFVoqw/видео.html
THANK YOU! for suffering through this for our sake. The footage is surprisingly clear and stable. My Radiator failed in the exact same spot. When I opened this up on my my sienna, my first thought was " Why is the this designed so the radiator is bolted to the condenser", just don't see the reasoning.
Dude!I love this! Been watching all the short videos trying to figure out why the condenser is moving with the radiator. Should have just started with the long video. Awesome! Thank you.
Nice job. Those lines that you said were Oil Cooler lines are ATF lines. Bad fluid indeed. I do suggest replacing the 2 hoses and thermostat at same time...and use regular hose clamps as you mentioned.
I took a shot at replacing the radiator on my 2008 Sienna. I got shot down almost right from the beginning. I'm in the rust belt and all the bolts were heavily rusted so a gave some of them a shot with PB blaster and left it overnight. I started with one 10mm bolt and the head rounded off. I tried another and the bolt head snapped off. I tried one more and that snapped off too. I wonder if every bolt is going to snap off. I see a lot of videos about removing broken bolts, but they all involve the use of a drill. Trouble is, some bolts are in locations where it would be impossible to use a drill if it snapped off. The radiator would drip every two seconds only when the engine is running. I put some Bars aluminum stop leak in the radiator. Now it drips once every 5 seconds and only when the thermostat opens, so I think I'll leave it at that for now. My advice for anyone who want's to try this job (especially if you live int he rust belt). Before you remove any bolts, ask yourself, if this bolt breaks, how will I remove it.
I was thinking of taking my 2006 Sienna to the shop to get it replaced but after watching this video I may attempt the job myself. I am wondering if my back can take it. Do you have an idea of what would be a fair price to have this job done at the shop?
It’s a fair bit of work. The bottom screws/bolts on the radiator that hold it to the condenser are a bit of a back strain. I can’t recall the estimate or cost price but I would guess $600 to $800 depending on the shop. (Seems more like $600 ish)
Did u not have to unhook the battery cables? They recommend it cause they say to take the front bumper off. But that would be awesome if that was not necessary. I'm getting ready to do this on my 07sienna.
I can’t remember at the moment, I don’t think I unhooked the battery. I usually don’t, even when doing starters and alternators, unless it gets too hairy.
@@MechanicalTriage ok. It looks like it was connected in the video. It looks like u didn't remove the bumper also. My lower bracket is rusted so I might have to remove the bumper to be able to get the screws loose. I thought the trans lines ran into the radiator? But I think you said it was motor oil lines. Some people have said this was a pretty big job especially if brackets are rusted. I'm debating taking it to a garage but I'd rather do it myself so I can make sure oem fluids are used
You should be able to provide fluids for the shop to use. If they don’t like it, then it’s the wrong shop. If they push for their fluids then they have a profit to make on them, and aren’t looking out for the customer.
How much did you charge for this job? Mechanic said the AC had to be drained and added back to install... hmm My reservoir on the fan assemble boils over and can cause the top to just pop off. Now I have changed the radiator and a thermostat and have the same problem. Head gasket test passes as well as a hydrocarbon test in the coolant. Great video!
Well, as you see in the video, I didn’t have to remove the ac, or discharge/charge it. Your situation may vary, I’m not sure what the symptoms you had were before replacing the radiator. In this case it was a crack in the radiator because of age and excessive head gasket pressure. Once the thermostat is replaced, you have to confirm it opens before running down the road, or it will in fact overheat again and boil out. Getting all the air out of the system is tedious and time consuming. Also, as far as the head gasket not being bad because of hydrocarbon test passed, I say that is absolutely false. I have had 3 vehicle pass and indeed had bad head gaskets. 3 subarus and a 2007 Toyota Sienna. If you know what to look for, check the plugs in the back bank for coolant deposits on the plug, probably cyl 4. That will show that coolant is getting into the cylinder.
Sr I have toyota sienna 2008 is overheating after 30 min running I change radiator,termostate wharer pump ,coolant temp sensor and is overheating to do you have enough other options please let me know tks
I’m going to go ahead and say it’s probably the head gaskets. I had to replace them on an 07 as well. Check the number 4 cylinder for water residue on the spark plug.
Great video but looks like a PITA...lol. I think I'll just pay my mechanic for this one. I've just never been that mechanically inclined. Mechanics certainly earn their pay!
I replaced the radiator on our 2007 Sienna this weekend and found this video invaluable. Some things I'd like to pass along in case it helps the next person. At 10:51, there are two parallel vacuum lines directly to the left of the positive battery post. One of these connects to a tiny port at the air box, and the other connects to Tee just beside the air box. I accidentally unplugged these from somewhere way down in the engine bay. I've learned that these are part of Toyota's "Active Control Engine Mount" and they are connected to a vacuum switch mounted on the front engine mount. At 11:05, I had difficulty removing the lower air duct until I figured out that I had to lift and push the duct to the left (separating it from the chamber under the battery) before I could pull it out of the air box. At 12:00, if your vehicle has an electrical connector to the hood latch, be sure to reconnect that connector before reinstalling the hood latch. It's almost impossible to see the female connector on the latch once you've reinstalled it. At 13:30, I rounded off one of the screws and had to drill off the head. This meant I couldn't reconnect a screw when putting everything back together. I took a clue from the video and used some foam from the side of the old radiator, setting it on top of the condenser before reinstalling the black plate over it. This will keep the condenser from moving, just like the stuck screw would have. At 20:30 and 23:33, these are steps I didn't have to do. On our van, those screws only go through the condenser and don't touch the radiator, so I didn't have to remove them. At 26:50, I had a miserable time removing the two bolts from the bottom plate. In fact, one bolt's mating nut turned inside its position in the radiator when I turned the bolt. I ended up having to pry the radiator away from the bottom plate, destroying the plastic on that corner of the old radiator. That was fine except I bent the lower plate just enough to prevent being able to use all four bolts when reinstalling the cooling fan. (The cooling fan is supported at the bottom with two bolts that insert into the bottom radiator support). Don't forget to check your transmission fluid after you've installed the new radiator. Also, I used one of the kits available from several sources in order to purge the cooling system of air. The van now has better heat than it's had in years. // I really appreciated this video. Good luck to anyone replacing their radiator. If you watch this video enough times, you'll feel like you've already done the repair at some point in the past and so the job won't be nearly as intimidating. Subscribed....
What would be these air purge kits? I have a no-spill funnel,is that it?
Air purge kit is a way to apply vacuum to the system to remove stray air behind the thermostat. If your diligent and monitor the system with a tall funnel, you’ll note the thermostat open twice, and THEN the cooling fans come on. That should be a wrap.
This guy does a great job explaining how to purge the air from the cooling system. The kit can be found online.
ruclips.net/video/UJe1dbFVoqw/видео.html
THANK YOU! for suffering through this for our sake. The footage is surprisingly clear and stable. My Radiator failed in the exact same spot. When I opened this up on my my sienna, my first thought was " Why is the this designed so the radiator is bolted to the condenser", just don't see the reasoning.
Dude!I love this! Been watching all the short videos trying to figure out why the condenser is moving with the radiator. Should have just started with the long video. Awesome! Thank you.
This helped me a lot on my 08 Sienna. Thank you for this!
Great video I’m tackling this job today same vehicle. Thank you for posting
Nice job. Those lines that you said were Oil Cooler lines are ATF lines. Bad fluid indeed. I do suggest replacing the 2 hoses and thermostat at same time...and use regular hose clamps as you mentioned.
I took a shot at replacing the radiator on my 2008 Sienna. I got shot down almost right from the beginning.
I'm in the rust belt and all the bolts were heavily rusted so a gave some of them a shot with PB blaster and left it overnight.
I started with one 10mm bolt and the head rounded off. I tried another and the bolt head snapped off. I tried one more and that snapped off too. I wonder if every bolt is going to snap off.
I see a lot of videos about removing broken bolts, but they all involve the use of a drill. Trouble is, some bolts are in locations where it would be impossible to use a drill if it snapped off.
The radiator would drip every two seconds only when the engine is running. I put some Bars aluminum stop leak in the radiator. Now it drips once every 5 seconds and only when the thermostat opens, so I think I'll leave it at that for now.
My advice for anyone who want's to try this job (especially if you live int he rust belt). Before you remove any bolts, ask yourself, if this bolt breaks, how will I remove it.
Excellent write up. But, I’m sorry for your experience. Hey, you can always use a bunch of zip ties. Lol. (Don’t do that. )
I was thinking of taking my 2006 Sienna to the shop to get it replaced but after watching this video I may attempt the job myself. I am wondering if my back can take it. Do you have an idea of what would be a fair price to have this job done at the shop?
It’s a fair bit of work. The bottom screws/bolts on the radiator that hold it to the condenser are a bit of a back strain. I can’t recall the estimate or cost price but I would guess $600 to $800 depending on the shop. (Seems more like $600 ish)
Did u not have to unhook the battery cables? They recommend it cause they say to take the front bumper off. But that would be awesome if that was not necessary. I'm getting ready to do this on my 07sienna.
I can’t remember at the moment, I don’t think I unhooked the battery. I usually don’t, even when doing starters and alternators, unless it gets too hairy.
@@MechanicalTriage ok. It looks like it was connected in the video. It looks like u didn't remove the bumper also. My lower bracket is rusted so I might have to remove the bumper to be able to get the screws loose. I thought the trans lines ran into the radiator? But I think you said it was motor oil lines. Some people have said this was a pretty big job especially if brackets are rusted. I'm debating taking it to a garage but I'd rather do it myself so I can make sure oem fluids are used
You should be able to provide fluids for the shop to use. If they don’t like it, then it’s the wrong shop. If they push for their fluids then they have a profit to make on them, and aren’t looking out for the customer.
How much did you charge for this job? Mechanic said the AC had to be drained and added back to install... hmm My reservoir on the fan assemble boils over and can cause the top to just pop off. Now I have changed the radiator and a thermostat and have the same problem. Head gasket test passes as well as a hydrocarbon test in the coolant. Great video!
Well, as you see in the video, I didn’t have to remove the ac, or discharge/charge it.
Your situation may vary, I’m not sure what the symptoms you had were before replacing the radiator. In this case it was a crack in the radiator because of age and excessive head gasket pressure. Once the thermostat is replaced, you have to confirm it opens before running down the road, or it will in fact overheat again and boil out.
Getting all the air out of the system is tedious and time consuming.
Also, as far as the head gasket not being bad because of hydrocarbon test passed, I say that is absolutely false. I have had 3 vehicle pass and indeed had bad head gaskets. 3 subarus and a 2007 Toyota Sienna.
If you know what to look for, check the plugs in the back bank for coolant deposits on the plug, probably cyl 4. That will show that coolant is getting into the cylinder.
you saved me seven hundred bucks god bless you
Sr I have toyota sienna 2008 is overheating after 30 min running I change radiator,termostate wharer pump ,coolant temp sensor and is overheating to do you have enough other options please let me know tks
I’m going to go ahead and say it’s probably the head gaskets. I had to replace them on an 07 as well. Check the number 4 cylinder for water residue on the spark plug.
Great video but looks like a PITA...lol. I think I'll just pay my mechanic for this one. I've just never been that mechanically inclined. Mechanics certainly earn their pay!
So there are two radiators.
One is an a/c condensor. For the air conditioner.
😊THANKS, helpfully